Contacted Mike and after speaking to him, I sent him My keys and ignition. Needless to say he diagnosed the problem very quickly. 3 day turn around, no complaints here he saved me around $2300. I don’t review often but this guy was a pleasure to work with! Hard to find legit people these days. Thanks again Michael Guzman!
This guy is a pro! Sent in the parts, diagnosed the day of delivery and had a quote in no time. Payment was secure and new eis and keys work great! Faster than a dealer and a fraction of the cost! AAA+++
Loved his video, and he did a good job showing us how to do this job, trying to give his as much detail as he can on a video. I sent him my my ESI and key, and he programmed it. I also went with emulator. Plugged everything in and the car started up great saved a bunch of money, thanks alot 🙏
Does anyone know- if I get the emulator before the steering is locked do I still have to pull the whole steering out? Or can I connect it to the ignition without that
If your ESL is still working, you can unlock it by inserting your key into the ignition. Then disconnect the ESL electrical harness while it’s in the unlocked position. This way it cannot lock up when you remove the key from the ignition switch. Connect the esl electrical harness to the programmed esl emulator. Then you’re ready to go. We can program the esl emulator for you. Checkout our website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Have a 2010 GL450. The dashlights do come on but there is no ignition. The car says remove the key when the door is open. Also, I can shift the car in neutral but the steering is locked. Do I still have this problem?
Couple of things here. The GL450 does not have a steering lock. The steering wheel cannot be locked. It maybe hard to move when the engine is off because of the lack of power steering. When you have dash lights but no crank of the engine in a 2010 I suspect there to be a problem with the EIS. You may have a CAN BUS issue in the EIS. I need more information to know for certain but this is my best guess. Watch this video for clues. ua-cam.com/video/Sw0TWwVh-5Y/v-deo.html Call us for help with the diagnosis and a solution. 818 510 3375 -Michael
You'll need a good scanner that can go into the SRS module and erase the code. This scanner is a great value. It can get into the SRS module. amzn.to/41Vnk8Q
If it’s the locked position, no. If it is unlocked you can, but should remove it for safety. If the gears inside are broken the lock could inadvertently fall into the steering column. If that were to happen while you’re driving, it could be disastrous.
Can you tell me why you're loosening the top screws when all you really need is to remove the two screws at the bottom of the steering column that hold the ESL in place?
Removing the two bottom screws without loosening or removing the top screws does nothing for you. If you don’t loosen/remove the top screws the column won’t budge even with the bottom screws removed.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist how do you remove the actual ESL itself from the steering column? I think you missed showing that part. My car is currently in the unlocked position. Thankfully. I want to make the most of it and take the sucker out
@@mercedesbenzspecialist That's the point point I'm missing. Why would I need the column to budge? I'm just removing the ESL here and that unit is at the bottom of the column correct? Also, can you explain how to remove the actual ESL itself from the column?
Watch the latest videos I published. They show you how to disconnect the ESL. You don’t have to remove it from the column if it’s 100% unlocked. ua-cam.com/video/NitkWXFk4oQ/v-deo.htmlsi=0XT6NGkQHY731Abo
@ I bought off Amazon. I want to replace it for the time being. I removed the lower 2 long bolts and loosened the top two that hold the drive shaft in. But when I depressed the bolt on the esl I couldn’t get it out. I got it free somewhat but there wasn’t enough room, felt like there was a plate above it blocking it. I didn’t remove the steering wheel as someone mentioned you didn’t have to. I pushed up on the steering wheel to get more space but a no go. So do I have to remove the lower drive shaft to get room? Also, can I leave my key in the ignition in my garage until I get the motor. Want it to stay unlocked. Sounds like it is ready to go out!
I’m in New Zealand and am sadly having to go through this exact process. Excellent video, but I do have a couple of questions: 1) why do you need to remove the broken ESL if replacing with an emulator? Can’t you just remove the loom and plug it into a programmed emulator? 2) how can I tell if the ESL is in the locked position? Will the steering wheel not move at all if locked? Thanks!
If the steering wheel is locked (you cannot move the wheels of the vehicle) that means the ESL is in the locked position. If it's in the locked position you have to remove it. The emulator starts the car but it does not unlock the factory ESL.
The steering lock fails. The steering lock is part of the "Drive Authorization" system. With a failed steering lock, you will get no red and yellow dash lights, windows won't roll down, and no crank. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
OMG had same symptoms like the video was of my C300 2014 . I shook the steering wheel back and forth and wala ! engine key fob inserted to 1st slot turn 1 spot lights came on.. Steering wheel moved freely back and forth then to slot space 2 the other lights came on and then turned the key and all started up and running. Like nothing was wrong at all. Question is how long before deeper problem and off to the shop? Or should I take it their now?
It’s starts as an intermittent no crank. As the motor inside the ESL gets weaker it will eventually fail and not actuate. I recommend removing the steering lock while you can still get it to unlock with the key. We offer the esl emulator programming service on our website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator You send in the ignition switch and key, we send those back with an electronic ESL emulator programmed so that’s it’s plug n play. If you wait until it fails completely, the labor time (and cost) goes up because you must remove the entire steering column to cut out the lock. Check out the service on our website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator Call us at 818-510-3375
Hello, I am French and I have a problem with my C W204. Thank you for your video, I have a quick question. After having succeeded in unlocking the engine by turning the steering wheel sharply, and having therefore unlocked the ESL, I leave the key in the ignition to leave it in the unlock position. When I unplug the battery, will it remain unlocked? No risk for the electronics of leaving the key in the ignition when removing the battery? THANKS
@@jordanmw7589 after unplugging the battery it will remain unlocked. There is no risk leaving the key in while you unplug the negative battery cable. You do not have to remove the positive battery cable.
You can find the current price for a programmed emulator on the website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator Call or text us at 818-510-3375
I have a 2008 C350 nothing wrong with my ESL but was wondering if I could get a emulator from you to change it out before the ESL does give out and what would I need to do to do so do I have to remove the ESL still?
I need the ignition switch and key. I don't need the ESL. You can checkout on our website. Then send your EIS and key to us. The address is on the website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
If your ESL has not malfunctioned. You can leave it in the steering column in the unlocked position. To put it into the unlocked position. Insert your key into the ignition switch. You will hear it unlock. Test that it is unlocked by moving your steering wheel. If your steering wheel moves it unlocked. Now without removing the key, you need to disconnect the electrical connector from the ESL. To do this, you’ll need to remove the kick panel. Reach up to the top of your steering column find the esl and disconnect it. You won’t be able to see it. You’ll have to do this by feeling for it. This video shows you how to remove it when it’s in the unlocked position. ua-cam.com/video/DsOWpx2x50M/v-deo.htmlsi=65k7ZL5yAwF2SjoY Use this video to find it and disconnect it while it’s in the unlocked position. You can then remove your ignition switch and send it to us along with one key. You can pay for it on our website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
If you unlucked the ELV already,just plug out the BLUE socket from ELV than program ELV emulator and put it to that BLUE socket. You dont need the remove ELV. And If you remove that big 4 screw than just remove take out as a whole the steering column,you dont need remove airbag.
With the electronically adjustable steering column, you must remove the steering wheel and pull the column from underneath as it won’t fit through the dash. Only the manual adjustment column fits through the dashboard. You’re correct on the unlocked elv. You don’t have to remove it. However, since I made this video as a diy, I always recommend that the elv or ESL be removed for safety reasons. In some cases, the parts inside the ESL are broken. The lock may fall into the column and lock the column. Worse case scenario is if that happens while your driving consequences could be disastrous. That’s why I always recommend removing the esl. The extra work is worth the gain in safety.
Just did this today with an electronic control wheel w204 (2013 coupe) I chose not to remove the airbag/wheel, as I didn’t want to poke holes to get the airbag out It’s possible to remove both the ESL/ELV and the ignition switch, without removing the Steering column, but it’s a whole lot more work (and pain) and increases the risk of damaging the plastics I started with my steering wheel furthest out towards the back of the car and at its lowest point. I then dropped the steering column by Loosening the 2 top screws, and removing the bottom two screws completely. This gave me some wiggle room. I removed the ignition switch from above the steering wheel, by unlocking it and knocking it back, then disconnecting all of the connectors through the small openings After, I had the play around with the position of the box (circle side towards you, tilted) and then forced the corner of the box through the somewhat forgiving plastic/faux leather base of the instrument cluster. This part is risky because you could damage the ignition switch box or the plastic around the instrument cluster. You can mitigate this risk by remove the instrument cluster, provided you have the appropriate plastic trim tools, and puller. It’s really not that hard, but it’s an extra step and I didn’t have the tools. For the ESL, I had to remove a plastic housing from around the brake pedal, just about where the torx 45 screw is, way in the back. It’s like a shroud for the AC I think. Just pop it towards you and wiggle it out Then I used my phone camera + flash to find the location of the ESL, which is located above the steering column shaft at the VERY end of the shaft, and very annoyingly feel around the very cramped space for the blue connector. I managed to do this one handed while holding/viewing my phone at the same time. For the nut, I used a swivel socket + 13 mm short socket ( I tried long socket, but cost too much space ) . It’s VERY annoying to position this and there is a sharp plastic piece that WILL brush against your hand. I used both hands to position the socket+ swivel. It’s hard fit a ratchet, so I actually used the swivel socket to apply torque to the socket and break the nut. I repeated this for a bit before being able to use my fingers to loosen it completely. Then I used my left hand to push the bolt inward as I used my right hand (poking a finger into the blue connector female) to wiggle the ESL forward and towards the front of the car. I used my legs to push the steering wheel UP, to drop the steering shaft a little, so that I could maneuver the ESL out. Yes, I did this all upside down. The installation is the reverse
Where does the emulator go plugged into? I am lost brother.. Where was the lock located at and where does the emulator go? Another question. If the bolt on the locking mechanism needs to be pushed down in order to signal that the steering is unlocked, wouldn't it be easier to just glue it sealed in that position or even cut it and bridge the switch itself. Just questions based on observation of the video.
Best if you watch this video. It’s a newer version of the one you watched. I went over the removal of the esl in detail. ua-cam.com/video/UOleKd9mx48/v-deo.html Also, the bolt has nothing to do with signaling that the esl is in the unlocked position as far as granting drive authorization. That authorization is granted by two switches on the circuit board. And no keeping the switches in the depressed (open lock) position won’t solve this issue. Our solution of replacing the factory ESL with an electronic emulator is the most reliable and affordable solution. Why try and reinvent the wheel? Go with a tested and proven working solution. You can find our esl emulator programming service here: mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator 818 510 3375
@@mercedesbenzspecialist Now on the other video you are removing the whole column because it is still in the lock position, Correct ??? Also, if I already have it in the unlock position do I disconnect the batter at that point with the key on so that it won't lock itself before I take the air bag and that other stuff off? The reason I ask is because mine is not that bad yet that its locking all the time. So I want to get this done before it gets bad. Oh one more thing. After we do this. The steering will no longer lock correct?
Yes! Smart to tackle it before it’s stuck in the locked position. Get it to unlock with the key. Disconnect the battery, then remove the electrical connector from the steering lock. That’s going to save you hours of labor. You won’t have to remove the whole steering column. Yes once the lock is disconnected in the open position it won’t lock the steering wheel ever again. You connect our programmed emulator and go!
This is happening to the models that use that system from around those years, EVERYONE report to NHTSA and to MBUSA, they have to fix this for free or a CLASS action will cost them more
@@iammdeepak1 I don’t. I’ll record that one day. The emulator can be zip tied anywhere out of the way of moving parts. Contact me by phone 818 510 3375
No it’s not fixed forever. I got lucky, it unlocked so I was able to remove the lock from the steering column without having to remove the whole steering column. I then replaced it with a programmed emulator. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator 818-510-3375
Call or text us at 818-510-3375 You can also get information about this service on our website. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
It’s $250. You must send me your ignition switch and key in order for me to program it. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Great video !! Just have one question. Is the ESL located in the same place on both electronic and standard steering columns? I know my w204 has a weak esl motor and I have the electronic adjustable steering wheel. So I want to just take the esl out and replace the electric motor inside. I don't want to go the emulator route.
Yes the esl is always in the same place. Plan on replacing that motor every 12-18 months. Those motors that are available on Amazon and eBay and everywhere else, are made in China. They don’t last 8-12 years like the original German motor.
Man I wish you uploaded this back in November! My ESL failed on my 2012 W204 and I sent it to my mechanic to fix. I am curious about the emulator - what does that do exactly? I noticed in the video you didn’t replace the ESL with a new one but instead used an emulator? Great video!!
The electronic emulator is many times more reliable than the factory ESL. It does not have any moving parts. 100% electronic. You lose the steering lock, but you gain reliability. You still have the EIS to protect your Mercedes-Benz from theft. It’s very unlikely that a thief can get passed the EIS. It also costs less than a new ESL. Furthermore, the “new” ESL supplied by a Mercedes-Benz dealership is a remanufactured unit with a Chinese made motor. It will very likely fail in 12-36 months. The emulator is the smartest choice.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist wow I wish I knew this last winter! My mechanic never mentioned that what was being installed was a remanufactured part with a Chinese motor in it. That makes sense though now because when they installed the first one it didn’t work and they had to reorder another one. God I hope this lasts me a decent time. If it fails I will definitely be keeping you in mind to go ahead and get an emulator. Thanks for the great content!
@@pilot_ddl yes putting in another esl is not a long term solution. The Chinese motor will last 18-24 months. I would remove it from the steering column while it’s still working. That way when it fails, you won’t have to remove the steering column to cut it out. mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
seems like a simple task man they just shoulda had a 16 mm holding that steering wheel instead of that 10 mm hex which is most likely gonna wear prematurely for down the link ESL replacement...
Call or text 818 510 3375 Or go to our website and checkout on the emulator programming service page: mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Mi amigo ese desmontaje se hace en menos de 30 min y no se requiere la presunción de tu herramienta y únicamente menos bla, bla bla y más acción, cuando tengas gusto te invito a venir a mi taller en la ciudad de Puebla Capital México y con mucho gusto te imparto una cátedra de como hacerlo en menos tiempo Atte ING Carlos Moreno catedrático superior en Ingeniería Mecánica Automotriz BUAP
Gracias por su comentario. Con esa lista de credenciales espero que pueda hacerlo en menos de 30 minutos. A mi me toma menos de 10 minutos desmontar la columna de dirección. Usted esta viendo este video desde la perspectiva de un mecánico con experiencia extensiva en mecánica e ingeniería. Lo que revela su comentario es su falta de perspectiva. La mayoría de los espectadores de mi canal no son mecánicos profesionales. Son aficionados al bricolaje de fin de semana que intentan ahorrarse cientos de dólares al hacer el trabajo en sus autos por si mismos. Este vídeo está dirigido a ese público. Si gusta, usted también puede subir un vídeo con los consejos y trucos que ha mencionado en su comentario. Que tenga buen día.
Contacted Mike and after speaking to him, I sent him My keys and ignition. Needless to say he diagnosed the problem very quickly. 3 day turn around, no complaints here he saved me around $2300. I don’t review often but this guy was a pleasure to work with! Hard to find legit people these days. Thanks again Michael Guzman!
I wish I found your profile when I first purchased my vehicle, would have saved me so much money.
You’re not wrong. 👆💰
So should I buy a 2006 cls 500? And the one I’m buying the steering wheel is locked right now
This guy is a pro! Sent in the parts, diagnosed the day of delivery and had a quote in no time. Payment was secure and new eis and keys work great! Faster than a dealer and a fraction of the cost! AAA+++
Loved his video, and he did a good job showing us how to do this job, trying to give his as much detail as he can on a video. I sent him my my ESI and key, and he programmed it. I also went with emulator. Plugged everything in and the car started up great saved a bunch of money, thanks alot 🙏
Thank you so much for the help! The reprogrammed module worked perfect! If you need this he is you’re guy! Fastest shipping in the us! Thanks again!
excellent video ! keep them coming . I'm a locksmith and the both door handle inop is classic ,been there . Thanks
If I break the steering wheel lock like earlier in the video, can i just put in a new esl "plug and play"? Obviously removing the steering column
No, any ESL you put in needs to be programmed first or it will not work.
Does anyone know- if I get the emulator before the steering is locked do I still have to pull the whole steering out? Or can I connect it to the ignition without that
Hi I have the same question. do you have any answers back ???
@@gerardomateo9972 no not yet
If your ESL is still working, you can unlock it by inserting your key into the ignition. Then disconnect the ESL electrical harness while it’s in the unlocked position. This way it cannot lock up when you remove the key from the ignition switch.
Connect the esl electrical harness to the programmed esl emulator. Then you’re ready to go.
We can program the esl emulator for you. Checkout our website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
@@mercedesbenzspecialist will i be able to disconnect the esl electrical harness while unlocked without removing the steering column like the video
@slah426 Yes. You do not have to remove the steering column to disconnect the electrical plug from the factory ESL.
Thank you. Best information i have found on this topic
Glad you found it helpful.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Have a 2010 GL450. The dashlights do come on but there is no ignition. The car says remove the key when the door is open. Also, I can shift the car in neutral but the steering is locked. Do I still have this problem?
Couple of things here. The GL450 does not have a steering lock. The steering wheel cannot be locked. It maybe hard to move when the engine is off because of the lack of power steering. When you have dash lights but no crank of the engine in a 2010 I suspect there to be a problem with the EIS. You may have a CAN BUS issue in the EIS. I need more information to know for certain but this is my best guess. Watch this video for clues.
ua-cam.com/video/Sw0TWwVh-5Y/v-deo.html
Call us for help with the diagnosis and a solution. 818 510 3375
-Michael
This trick worked for me and I got engine to start. Thank you.
Glad it helped
So I can just remove the esl without unplugging it an zip tie to tbe steering shaft? Mine works but sounds weak. Eventually might get an emulator.
Yes. That would be a smart move. When it fails, you’ll thank yourself for saving the time it takes to remove the steering column and cut the esl out.
The guy who did mine forgot to disconnect my battery and now I have an SRS message. What do I do to fix it?
You'll need a good scanner that can go into the SRS module and erase the code.
This scanner is a great value. It can get into the SRS module. amzn.to/41Vnk8Q
Great video! Appreciate the detailed steps!
Glad it helped!
Can you install a emulator and leave the old defective steering lock in place and just keep it unplugged?
If it’s the locked position, no.
If it is unlocked you can, but should remove it for safety.
If the gears inside are broken the lock could inadvertently fall into the steering column. If that were to happen while you’re driving, it could be disastrous.
Mine is unlocked but how did you take out the steering Lock itself. I did not see that on this video???
You can watch that in this video here:
ua-cam.com/video/UOleKd9mx48/v-deo.html
Can you tell me why you're loosening the top screws when all you really need is to remove the two screws at the bottom of the steering column that hold the ESL in place?
Removing the two bottom screws without loosening or removing the top screws does nothing for you. If you don’t loosen/remove the top screws the column won’t budge even with the bottom screws removed.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist how do you remove the actual ESL itself from the steering column? I think you missed showing that part. My car is currently in the unlocked position. Thankfully. I want to make the most of it and take the sucker out
@@mercedesbenzspecialist That's the point point I'm missing. Why would I need the column to budge? I'm just removing the ESL here and that unit is at the bottom of the column correct? Also, can you explain how to remove the actual ESL itself from the column?
How did you get the esl out? Doesn’t seem to be enough room to get to it. So if it’s unlocked, you don’t have to remove the bottom steering shaft.
Watch the latest videos I published. They show you how to disconnect the ESL. You don’t have to remove it from the column if it’s 100% unlocked.
ua-cam.com/video/NitkWXFk4oQ/v-deo.htmlsi=0XT6NGkQHY731Abo
@ I bought off Amazon. I want to replace it for the time being. I removed the lower 2 long bolts and loosened the top two that hold the drive shaft in. But when I depressed the bolt on the esl I couldn’t get it out. I got it free somewhat but there wasn’t enough room, felt like there was a plate above it blocking it. I didn’t remove the steering wheel as someone mentioned you didn’t have to. I pushed up on the steering wheel to get more space but a no go. So do I have to remove the lower drive shaft to get room? Also, can I leave my key in the ignition in my garage until I get the motor. Want it to stay unlocked. Sounds like it is ready to go out!
@ finally got it out. Someone on forum said if the car has fbs4 than it cannot use an emulator. Is this true, and how can I tell if my car has this.
@TreasureHunter5000 it’s true. If your car is a w204 you don’t have to worry about FBS4.
I’m in New Zealand and am sadly having to go through this exact process.
Excellent video, but I do have a couple of questions:
1) why do you need to remove the broken ESL if replacing with an emulator? Can’t you just remove the loom and plug it into a programmed emulator?
2) how can I tell if the ESL is in the locked position? Will the steering wheel not move at all if locked?
Thanks!
If the steering wheel is locked (you cannot move the wheels of the vehicle) that means the ESL is in the locked position. If it's in the locked position you have to remove it. The emulator starts the car but it does not unlock the factory ESL.
I’m confused so what is the part that failed, do I also need to replace the steering lock?
The steering lock fails. The steering lock is part of the "Drive Authorization" system. With a failed steering lock, you will get no red and yellow dash lights, windows won't roll down, and no crank.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
OMG had same symptoms like the video was of my C300 2014 . I shook the steering wheel back and forth and wala ! engine key fob inserted to 1st slot turn 1 spot lights came on.. Steering wheel moved freely back and forth then to slot space 2 the other lights came on and then turned the key and all started up and running. Like nothing was wrong at all. Question is how long before deeper problem and off to the shop? Or should I take it their now?
It’s starts as an intermittent no crank. As the motor inside the ESL gets weaker it will eventually fail and not actuate. I recommend removing the steering lock while you can still get it to unlock with the key.
We offer the esl emulator programming service on our website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
You send in the ignition switch and key, we send those back with an electronic ESL emulator programmed so that’s it’s plug n play.
If you wait until it fails completely, the labor time (and cost) goes up because you must remove the entire steering column to cut out the lock.
Check out the service on our website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Call us at 818-510-3375
Great video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Hello, I am French and I have a problem with my C W204.
Thank you for your video, I have a quick question. After having succeeded in unlocking the engine by turning the steering wheel sharply, and having therefore unlocked the ESL, I leave the key in the ignition to leave it in the unlock position.
When I unplug the battery, will it remain unlocked? No risk for the electronics of leaving the key in the ignition when removing the battery?
THANKS
@@jordanmw7589 after unplugging the battery it will remain unlocked.
There is no risk leaving the key in while you unplug the negative battery cable. You do not have to remove the positive battery cable.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist Thanks u so much
@jordanmw7589 De rien!
how much do u charge to program the one key with new emobilzer?
You can find the current price for a programmed emulator on the website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Call or text us at 818-510-3375
I have a 2008 C350 nothing wrong with my ESL but was wondering if I could get a emulator from you to change it out before the ESL does give out and what would I need to do to do so do I have to remove the ESL still?
I need the ignition switch and key. I don't need the ESL.
You can checkout on our website. Then send your EIS and key to us. The address is on the website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Did you end up doing this? I'm considering it. Did you have to do anything with the ESL unit at all?
If your ESL has not malfunctioned. You can leave it in the steering column in the unlocked position.
To put it into the unlocked position. Insert your key into the ignition switch. You will hear it unlock. Test that it is unlocked by moving your steering wheel. If your steering wheel moves it unlocked.
Now without removing the key, you need to disconnect the electrical connector from the ESL. To do this, you’ll need to remove the kick panel. Reach up to the top of your steering column find the esl and disconnect it.
You won’t be able to see it. You’ll have to do this by feeling for it.
This video shows you how to remove it when it’s in the unlocked position.
ua-cam.com/video/DsOWpx2x50M/v-deo.htmlsi=65k7ZL5yAwF2SjoY
Use this video to find it and disconnect it while it’s in the unlocked position.
You can then remove your ignition switch and send it to us along with one key.
You can pay for it on our website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
@@mercedesbenzspecialist OK, thanks so much
@@mercedesbenzspecialist do you have a video for removing the ignition switch?
If you unlucked the ELV already,just plug out the BLUE socket from ELV than program ELV emulator and put it to that BLUE socket. You dont need the remove ELV.
And If you remove that big 4 screw than just remove take out as a whole the steering column,you dont need remove airbag.
With the electronically adjustable steering column, you must remove the steering wheel and pull the column from underneath as it won’t fit through the dash. Only the manual adjustment column fits through the dashboard.
You’re correct on the unlocked elv. You don’t have to remove it. However, since I made this video as a diy, I always recommend that the elv or ESL be removed for safety reasons.
In some cases, the parts inside the ESL are broken. The lock may fall into the column and lock the column. Worse case scenario is if that happens while your driving consequences could be disastrous. That’s why I always recommend removing the esl. The extra work is worth the gain in safety.
Just did this today with an electronic control wheel w204 (2013 coupe)
I chose not to remove the airbag/wheel, as I didn’t want to poke holes to get the airbag out
It’s possible to remove both the ESL/ELV and the ignition switch, without removing the Steering column, but it’s a whole lot more work (and pain) and increases the risk of damaging the plastics
I started with my steering wheel furthest out towards the back of the car and at its lowest point.
I then dropped the steering column by Loosening the 2 top screws, and removing the bottom two screws completely. This gave me some wiggle room.
I removed the ignition switch from above the steering wheel, by unlocking it and knocking it back, then disconnecting all of the connectors through the small openings
After, I had the play around with the position of the box (circle side towards you, tilted) and then forced the corner of the box through the somewhat forgiving plastic/faux leather base of the instrument cluster. This part is risky because you could damage the ignition switch box or the plastic around the instrument cluster.
You can mitigate this risk by remove the instrument cluster, provided you have the appropriate plastic trim tools, and puller. It’s really not that hard, but it’s an extra step and I didn’t have the tools.
For the ESL, I had to remove a plastic housing from around the brake pedal, just about where the torx 45 screw is, way in the back. It’s like a shroud for the AC I think. Just pop it towards you and wiggle it out
Then I used my phone camera + flash to find the location of the ESL, which is located above the steering column shaft at the VERY end of the shaft, and very annoyingly feel around the very cramped space for the blue connector. I managed to do this one handed while holding/viewing my phone at the same time. For the nut, I used a swivel socket + 13 mm short socket ( I tried long socket, but cost too much space ) . It’s VERY annoying to position this and there is a sharp plastic piece that WILL brush against your hand. I used both hands to position the socket+ swivel. It’s hard fit a ratchet, so I actually used the swivel socket to apply torque to the socket and break the nut. I repeated this for a bit before being able to use my fingers to loosen it completely. Then I used my left hand to push the bolt inward as I used my right hand (poking a finger into the blue connector female) to wiggle the ESL forward and towards the front of the car. I used my legs to push the steering wheel UP, to drop the steering shaft a little, so that I could maneuver the ESL out. Yes, I did this all upside down.
The installation is the reverse
Obviously, after you position your steering wheel, disconnect the battery
Where does the emulator go plugged into? I am lost brother.. Where was the lock located at and where does the emulator go? Another question. If the bolt on the locking mechanism needs to be pushed down in order to signal that the steering is unlocked, wouldn't it be easier to just glue it sealed in that position or even cut it and bridge the switch itself. Just questions based on observation of the video.
Best if you watch this video. It’s a newer version of the one you watched. I went over the removal of the esl in detail.
ua-cam.com/video/UOleKd9mx48/v-deo.html
Also, the bolt has nothing to do with signaling that the esl is in the unlocked position as far as granting drive authorization. That authorization is granted by two switches on the circuit board. And no keeping the switches in the depressed (open lock) position won’t solve this issue.
Our solution of replacing the factory ESL with an electronic emulator is the most reliable and affordable solution. Why try and reinvent the wheel? Go with a tested and proven working solution.
You can find our esl emulator programming service here:
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
818 510 3375
@@mercedesbenzspecialist Now on the other video you are removing the whole column because it is still in the lock position, Correct ???
Also, if I already have it in the unlock position do I disconnect the batter at that point with the key on so that it won't lock itself before I take the air bag and that other stuff off? The reason I ask is because mine is not that bad yet that its locking all the time. So I want to get this done before it gets bad.
Oh one more thing. After we do this. The steering will no longer lock correct?
Yes! Smart to tackle it before it’s stuck in the locked position.
Get it to unlock with the key. Disconnect the battery, then remove the electrical connector from the steering lock. That’s going to save you hours of labor. You won’t have to remove the whole steering column.
Yes once the lock is disconnected in the open position it won’t lock the steering wheel ever again.
You connect our programmed emulator and go!
Hi Mike , can I do this on my 2009 so I can drive it home?
If your steering lock is in the locked position, this trick will start your car but it won’t unlock the steering wheel.
This is happening to the models that use that system from around those years, EVERYONE report to NHTSA and to MBUSA, they have to fix this for free or a CLASS action will cost them more
Bro, got a video of how to put this back together?
Also is the emulator just hanging loose, or is it bolted? How can I get in touch with you?
@@iammdeepak1 I don’t. I’ll record that one day. The emulator can be zip tied anywhere out of the way of moving parts.
Contact me by phone 818 510 3375
after u unlocked ur steering wheel
while it lock again if u take out the key and fail again or did u fix it forever ?
No it’s not fixed forever. I got lucky, it unlocked so I was able to remove the lock from the steering column without having to remove the whole steering column.
I then replaced it with a programmed emulator.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
818-510-3375
thank u very much awesome video thank u
Is there any way I can dm you or get in contact with you ? I have this issue as well and would want to do it myself, I just have a couple questions
Call or text us at 818-510-3375
You can also get information about this service on our website.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
@@mercedesbenzspecialist sounds good calling right now!
Do you have any shops in San Antonio tx?
I’m sure I’ve worked with shops in San Antonio TX before. I can check in the morning.
Call or text us to remind me. 818 510-3375
How much for the Emulator?
It’s $250. You must send me your ignition switch and key in order for me to program it.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Great video !! Just have one question. Is the ESL located in the same place on both electronic and standard steering columns? I know my w204 has a weak esl motor and I have the electronic adjustable steering wheel. So I want to just take the esl out and replace the electric motor inside. I don't want to go the emulator route.
Yes the esl is always in the same place.
Plan on replacing that motor every 12-18 months. Those motors that are available on Amazon and eBay and everywhere else, are made in China. They don’t last 8-12 years like the original German motor.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist I did wonder about the quality of those china made motors. Thankyou for the heads up on that.
Man I wish you uploaded this back in November! My ESL failed on my 2012 W204 and I sent it to my mechanic to fix. I am curious about the emulator - what does that do exactly? I noticed in the video you didn’t replace the ESL with a new one but instead used an emulator? Great video!!
The electronic emulator is many times more reliable than the factory ESL.
It does not have any moving parts. 100% electronic.
You lose the steering lock, but you gain reliability. You still have the EIS to protect your Mercedes-Benz from theft. It’s very unlikely that a thief can get passed the EIS.
It also costs less than a new ESL. Furthermore, the “new” ESL supplied by a Mercedes-Benz dealership is a remanufactured unit with a Chinese made motor. It will very likely fail in 12-36 months.
The emulator is the smartest choice.
@@mercedesbenzspecialist wow I wish I knew this last winter! My mechanic never mentioned that what was being installed was a remanufactured part with a Chinese motor in it. That makes sense though now because when they installed the first one it didn’t work and they had to reorder another one. God I hope this lasts me a decent time.
If it fails I will definitely be keeping you in mind to go ahead and get an emulator.
Thanks for the great content!
@@pilot_ddl yes putting in another esl is not a long term solution. The Chinese motor will last 18-24 months. I would remove it from the steering column while it’s still working. That way when it fails, you won’t have to remove the steering column to cut it out.
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/shop/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
How can I get in contact with you need this
Hi, I left my phone number in the description.
562.233.0989
-Michael
seems like a simple task man they just shoulda had a 16 mm holding that steering wheel instead of that 10 mm hex which is most likely gonna wear prematurely for down the link ESL replacement...
The bolt is an M16. The drive is 10mm hex. Not sure what you mean about premature wear of the bolt.
Now try a RHD one...
If I ever make it to the UK 🇬🇧
What tf is the cause of this?!!
It's the f'n steering lock.
Please send me contact info I'd like to send you my ignition and key for a programmed emulator thank you
Call or text 818 510 3375
Or go to our website and checkout on the emulator programming service page:
mercedesbenzspecialist.net/all-products-%26-services/ols/products/mercedes-c-class-glk-class-e-class-coupe-slk-class-electronic-emulator
Mi amigo ese desmontaje se hace en menos de 30 min y no se requiere la presunción de tu herramienta y únicamente menos bla, bla bla y más acción, cuando tengas gusto te invito a venir a mi taller en la ciudad de Puebla Capital México y con mucho gusto te imparto una cátedra de como hacerlo en menos tiempo Atte ING Carlos Moreno catedrático superior en Ingeniería Mecánica Automotriz BUAP
Gracias por su comentario. Con esa lista de credenciales espero que pueda hacerlo en menos de 30 minutos. A mi me toma menos de 10 minutos desmontar la columna de dirección.
Usted esta viendo este video desde la perspectiva de un mecánico con experiencia extensiva en mecánica e ingeniería. Lo que revela su comentario es su falta de perspectiva.
La mayoría de los espectadores de mi canal no son mecánicos profesionales. Son aficionados al bricolaje de fin de semana que intentan ahorrarse cientos de dólares al hacer el trabajo en sus autos por si mismos. Este vídeo está dirigido a ese público.
Si gusta, usted también puede subir un vídeo con los consejos y trucos que ha mencionado en su comentario. Que tenga buen día.
I am gonna use this because I have got it🤣
If you need us to program an ESL emulator for you. Please get in touch with us. 818-510-3375