Complete 532nm Green Ebay Laser Pointer Teardown + Optical Mod Q&A
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Have you ever struggled to take apart a cheap eBay laser?
Have you ever wondered what's inside and what the parts are?
Have you ever wondered what the parts look like and do?
Have you visited my many years old " Full Optical Mod " and was confused?
( Released in 2010 it's a rough video )
• Full Optical Mod of 5 ...
Here I am to bring you EVERYTHING you need and want to know about these DPSS laser pointers in full detail, along with fully answering questions on how my optical mod worked, and how to optimize it using the correct lens as well as how to undo the optical modification and convert the laser back to green.
If you want a high powered green laser pointer, they are not cheap for good reasons, however on my channel I do show you how to make a 900mw 525nm Green as well!
• Building a 525nm Burni... - Наука та технологія
Questions on problems have been thoroughly discussed in the comments covering, dimming and unstable laser pointers.
Let me remind you these are cheap for a reason and you get what you pay for.
I know, but I’m wondering how many cheap lasers I will have time to pay for. Most of my lasers I have fixed myself by your guidance, it’s funny how much a tiny spring or two will affect the laser, I have to guess where they go and that’s why I would love to have illustration of my 26 or So lasers in individual component placement.
@@danielrushing4600 Yeah the parts can be quite sensitive. There are simply so may types/designs of lasers so making diagrams for them all would be quite difficult. I try to show concepts and function above everything else so that way it's far easier to know what things do and where they go along with possible modifications that can be thought of. The other thing is that for the most part i build my own pointers which I have done for years. Because of this I don't see many pointers made by companies or other people.
what is that lens called that is on the diode
@@idavidbadger9657 It's a lens or set of lenses with a positive power overall. It's normally called the pump focusing lens in many diagrams but I have heard it also called a condensing lens in a laser optical train since it often is used to make a small spot. Not much special to it, maybe an AR coating for NIR but it's just a small bi-convex lens.
@@Zenodilodon much appreciated brother and great vids enjoy watching. keep up the great work and honorable enlightening to viewers
Finally a guy that makes real videos I actually need, and looks and sounds like a cool dude. Thanks for the video man.
Thank you so much for this wonderfully instructive and educational video, probably one of the best laser disassembly tutorial I’ve come across on UA-cam and trust, I’ve wasted so much time and a couple unfortunate laser pointers hoping to find a good way to mod a proper burning laser and voila, finally came across your video. Lovely detailed yet succinct, I hope more people give you due recognition for this wonderful contribution.
I am aiming to be one of the best channels on YT for laser/optical related technology. I want to help and inspire others interested in this type of technology. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for letting me do this. I love lasers! I am 70.
This is new technology for me and I have misplaced a washer or 7 on some of my lasers. Would you please either send or show me how they go back together. Thank you, you’re an angel!
What type of lasers are you trying to repair? Lasers are something you tend to love for life. I am 34 and don't ever see being bored of laser stuff! The whole field of photonics is HUGE!
Sənin ölən vaxtındiye ala
15:08 you also cleary see this reflective arc on your hands. (wich is actually on the camera lens) this would otherwise be your eye while not blinking
Nice job. Excellent experimentation and good explanation. Thank you to show how it work.
Thank You!
best intro ever dudeeee. Pretty original, im in in this channel
Your video is great it answered a lot of my questions thanks a lot
Beautiful sharing
Wow
So many information ans practical tips!!! And it's not on first place on yt search results. Very useful dude thanks 👍👍👍
I don't aim to be the first result, I iam to be the best result!. Thanks for the comment and glad you found the video helpful.
Love your videos.. Please make one on jow to take apart and repair a Thor 2 blue laser. It seems mine is glued and i cant for the life of me get it apart without risking damage to the rest of the diode / driver assembly.
BRUH..SUBSCRIBED RIGHTAWAY! I Love your videos...I have recently started working with lasers. Bought one 1.6w blue laser and 2 HY Laser 303s. Learned so many things from this video...Thank you
Pretty soon you'll be making your own lasers it looks like!
Why does this video only have 500 views? I've been looking for a video of someone tearing one of these apart, and when I finally find one, it's only got 500 views! Why? It's a really solid video.
Jonah French-Jurgens not solid enough
Hey man 8 months later its got, 26,807 views so...
@@saplingdatree4111 Up to 54,000 now!
@@Zenodilodon 100k RN
300k now
I used to have this laser but it stopped working
deffinatly a verry perculiar fellow. but he seems like a nice guy and there should be more people like him in the world
I am rather eclectic aren't I.
I agree though, we need more nice strange people taking part in the active community!
Have you considered replacing the 500mW 808nm diode with a stronger diode? I’m considering doing this with either a c-mount 1W or a windowless 9mm 1W diode but I was hoping you had some experience with this.
amazing work for laser lovers.
good video you explain it all very well but just curious what amount of power was used while doing all these tests?
Every laser in the video was the cheapest bottom of the barrel Ebay laser you could get. None where pot modded but the optical arrangements have been changed for demonstrative purposes. If you are speaking of input voltage the drivers are designed to run from 3.2v to 5v.
I wear glasses now because as a kid i used to play with laser outta cd & dvd burners, for hours , days , weeks , without eye protection .
True story
Interesting, the CD/DVD lasers don't really have the properties to change your lens shape that I know if. Did you end up getting blind spots and just needing a larger image to compensate?
@@Zenodilodon i dont really know what type of glasses are these but i also have astigmatism as my parents . Emphesis on cd & dvd writer lasers ,which are higher output that reader diodes .
@@thevoidedwarranty It's most likely genetics alone. I have worked with lasers well beyond writer powers, up to 30,000mW compared to 300mW for years professionally. Because the show lasers are RGB there really aren't good goggles to use so I have to always be cautious.The vision damage I have is from a 90mW violet laser. It's the blue-UV that scare the crap out of me the most. Those are most easily absorbed and can cause more damage per power, this along with anything 405nm and under being a legit cancer risk. Seems as one of the forum members got a small case of skin cancer on the hand from 405nm. Scary stuff!!!
@@Zenodilodon wow thats crazy ! My theory is , because i was a kid and didnt know about IR, i used to stare very closly at the diode to see if its working or not and that might have had an effect on my cornia thining it like a lasic might have done . I donno thou ,i have literally no info on topic but i started to loose 10/10 vision in a couple of months . nowdays i shy away from working laser because where i live ebay and amazon or other webshop service are non existant so i cant really buy quality eye wear .anyways , i enjoy yourvideos , u seem like a true maker , like we do it here , without any fancy parts or tools .u make stuff just because u want to make stuff and see what happens & thats true science .
as of right now, what is the lowest priced green laseer that can be seen in outside daylight hours ? I assume it has to be at least 500 milliwatts - 1.5 watts ? Ty
My pointer is having button problems, is it advisable to replace the small button?
The lasers are often quite hard to take apart, esp for novices and those without a whole box of tools. I would try cleaning it with something like rubbing alcohol and letting it completely dry or trying Deoxit. It may be a pain but often simply replacing a cheap laser is a better option for those who just want a working laser.
@@Zenodilodon I appreciate the advise.
Its been awhile since I came across to a channel that actually responds to the community, for that I must Sub you.
You deserve more supporters
Have a great day :>
@@ryukireii I know the feeling, I like that my channel is still small because I can address questions better. I really promote the asking of questions as it's often the first step to learning.
@@Zenodilodon how do I repair the laser if it dosent turn on
I accidentally dropped my laser from about 5ft and now it's misaligned. I've managed to disassembly but just a thin green it's coming out with a very short reach... it's very thin nothing like it used to be... my bad I guess XD
On the upside it sounds like pretty easy parts to get back on. If you are just getting into this stuff I would recommend trying with a small bit of epoxy to fix it. Probably either the expending lens or collimating lens that needs to be fixed. If it's a cheapo ebay laser you're probably best getting a new one as it's probably cheaper than the epoxy would be. On the upside you could easily make the broken one into an IR laser if you wanted.
@@Zenodilodon I'll give it a try, but yeah it's a cheapo laser pointer...
On eBay many people sell 990 miles laser,990 miles is 1500km , really can reach that far? please answer guys'''''''
The laser light will continue unless obstructed by an object or dense fog/smoke,etc. The output will significantly diverge but yes, you will get photons to go that far.
Seeing them is a whole hurdle in of itself at that point.
I legit raised my hands at 14:04 Awesome video, thank you so much!!
You know it's a legit laser channel when the camera sensor got beaten up by all the laser experiments ;-)
You can't easily fake that kind of authenticity!
sir i have a green laser / his middle lens is distrubed.its addjustment is very difficalt .sir please solve my probleme...
Thanks for the vid man keep making amazing content subbed
Bro i just broke the expanding lens which is just placed after the crystal and its out of focus now, do you any suggestions how can i make its focus right to get a parallel beam of light as before
I just bought a high powered laser I have questions if you have time. Mostly why it's not focusing
Is it a DPSS green? ( 532nm )
I’ll buy a Lazer from you I needed for road striping the ones we buy you can’t see during the day let me know
What do you mean striping roads?
I bought this but it only worked for an hour or so . Then stopped working and I put the laser under the bed and left it for 2-3 months .. now I kinda wanna play w it but it's not working .. any suggestions??
I have had a little luck with getting them to run better on lithium based batteries like Energizer many alkaline batteries don't have enough oomph to really run at half an amp. If that doesn't work your only real option if not technical is to get a new laser pointer. My suggestion is the laser lands grass green 510nm pointer. It's not a bright/vivid at the 532nm but as a durable long life safe pointer it's solid!
@@Zenodilodon thanks ! Will try lithium battery . Imma let u know
Thank you for this very explicit video. I have a question for you : I have a blue laser pointer 450nm almost new , the laser beam is very weak, barely seen in the dark room despite a new battery ,no falls,not misused. Can you help me identifying the problem. Thank you.
Sounds like a bad laser diode. Is your laser focusable?
@@Zenodilodon Thank you again for your reply. The pointer is not focusable.
@@hangman432 If you can get a lens to expand the beam you can take a look at the quality of the light. It should be a rectangle that is solidly filled. If it's more circular and rough and or contains dark areas than this is a sign of catastrophic optical damage. Depending on the wattage of the laser the diode can be replaced pretty easily if that is the problem. Try inspecting the beam for defects and let me know what you see.
Mine is weak too problem is the lense magnifier is loose inside got unglued or something. I Don't know how to open it
If I remove the expanding lens then reassemble the laser can I get a more focused pin point at a distance. Not for burning but for greater accuracy in a laser leveling type of setup at say 50ft...
I have an unbranded laser pointer, I got the optical assembly and board assembly out, accidently snapped the board off of the optical assembly and I thought I could just disassemble the optical component but it seems to be hard glued together. The black plastic lens housing is not budging. A shame because I could probably otherwise just resolder the components.
Pulling the module out on these kinds of green lasers can be very tough. They really do get a metal forming crimp on the inside sometimes. If all else fails you can easily peel off the case with a pliers and get the module that way on these cheap kinds. This of course destroys the pointer aspect but as least you can maybe salvage and fix the actual laser. If the driver has the LM358 chip on it the driver can be powered off USB (5v) though you will need external cooling like a heat sink for long run times.
Bro my Monolitic Crystaline in my laser is Broken,,,,,,,what is Your Suggestion to Repair it??????? I can still repair it?????
Yes you can, if the crystal inside isn't broken but fell off you can epoxy it back into position while making sure the alignment is good and exits out of the front of the laser. You may have to adjust the expanding lens to move the output of the monolithic crystalline assembly to center.
For a while new ones could be bought on eBay, I can't find them now sadly. If the laser is a cheap one such as in this video you might just be better off getting a new laser. It's usually the cheapest/easiest option when all things are factored in.
@@Zenodilodon so sad thanks for answering me
LASER DUDE........GOODWORK....IM A LASER ,,,,,DUDE 2
bro i give 12v to this suddently this gone problem no open what should i need to do
It's fried, time for a new one. 12 volts is far to much voltage for the laser pointer's electronics.
8:04 Oh great! I had just extracted a laser diode from a DVD burner, but it was a weird rectangular one where it isn't obvious which pin is which. 22:46 it's number five from left. Please show us how to get them out of the heatsink. :)
I once bought one of these cheap-shits from a "good" online shop. (Not eBay) Advertised as a 510nm diode laser. But it was just a usual 532nm dpss... :(
Even worse than getting the wrong kind is the push-button is apparently the cheapest part in these. How are they holding up for you? Mine is very hard to get to shine with full brightness and barely works anymore. I hoped this video would help, but I don't want to destroy the casing. :(
I also once bought a 405nm lens assembly for my 200mW 405nm laser. It is fluorescent under this wavelength. So it is garbage. Probably for green lasers.
Damn it! *You can't buy anything, anywhere, anymore since China fucked the whole market!* Grrr
Oh great! indeed place that LD aside or contact me over FB and I can let you know what the pins are if you want to play around with them sooner. I noticed as I did my first DVD laser videos ( outdated now ) that many DVD burners had strange laser diode form factors, they are common as heck and this left me to the thought of how many people must of pulled a DVD burner apart looking for a 5.6mm diode. On man soooo many lol. I have taken the challenge on to make a really long and detailed video and it's a pretty big undertaking with the time I have, but should be highly rewarding. For lasers above 100mw I always use glass, I find dust can get burned into plastic ones if it fluoresced under 405nm it might be plastic. I agree with you on the market, it's hard to find reliable sellers, the market is all sorta of strange parts and bad item descriptions.
As far as lasers holding up, I don't buy these for use, I buy them for the drivers, the drivers from these lasers will be used in the DVD video. I typically make my own pointers from scratch, needless to say purchased laser pointers have a life of 20 minutes when they arrive.
I can wait for the video. I am still doing the TEA laser stuff. :)
The diode from my 405nm laser is kind of broken (less output) so I was hoping the DVD burner would give me a casing compatible diode. Yeah, I'm one of the people who hoped for a 5.6mm diode or smaller. xD
The 405 diode is weirdly small, though. About 3mm, but looks like the usual 5.6mm otherwise. Anyway, I can use the driver from it for the DVD diode.
Also, the lens-assembly I was talking about is currently in my 300mw red laser. (Forgot which "red". It was one of those with a big beam: about 1.5cm. They look really cool! You should definitely get one of these.) I was thinking: Shouldn't a lens-assembly for 405nm (or 532) wavelength lasers be different to those for "red"? I thought it wouldn't work good, but it works flawless. I mean beam divergence or something. That was weird to me. Why does it work for all wavelengths?
You probably came across a 3.8mm 405nm. Was it from a burner? if not the voltage is about 5v at .02 amp it's a burner some of them like the BDR-16 can do 6.25v at .56 amps check on what type it is. My go to for 405nm is always the BDR-16 3.8mm LD
Sorry I think I read things a little incorrect. If you are intending to use a 405nm laser for the DVD burner, you cannot the voltage and current ranges are not the same due to the diode material types. Best option is a 532nm laser driver that is modded or to order specifically a driver for red, such as one for the oclaro 700mw LED which I also may place in the video for those who want a much brighter red then a DVD laser diode.
How to get the inside out without breaking the driver from the diode????!?!!?
It's in the video.
Nice camera lens laser burns xD
Excelente!! Gracias por el video.
I'm just going to buy a different laser. I couldn't be high enough to do all this.
Oh, I think you could be high enough if you tried.
What about the laser sight used on weapons? I looked for a video about the laser to make it myself, but never found a video or article, how does it work?
I understand everything, but I don't understand the zeroing mechanism
How can i switch my red pen laser into a broken green laser case that is bigger and more awesome even if it's the same mw, i broke the green one while trying to switch because i don't know what i'm doing.
My light is not coming
My too😢
Gracias por mostrarnos el desmontaje para poder reparar y modificar estos punteros que son muy económicos y útiles a la ves, saludos cordiales.
Ami me prende y me aparece en puntito rojo y cunado andaba era verde
how many mw is the laser that current voltage uses and amperage I have one c is written 200mw but I don't think it is 200mw
These are only 5 mw green output.
Without a power meter it's a bit hard to tell, you should have no problem with lighting matches or burning some small stuff with 200mw. It's a lot of why I started making my own lasers more and not buying them. There is a satisfaction of knowing what's inside.
The voltage often depends on the composition of the laser diode itself. IR-Red laser diodes all hover around the 2.35v range peak, where as other colored laser diodes have a higher operating voltage. If your laser is a green and 532nm it is like this and starts off IR. It could be degradation of the MCA which can also cause low power. Not all are equally stable or as efficient as well.
The current is a tricky part and really can't be determined without putting a current meter in the loop with the laser diode or without a datasheet for that particular laser unit or diode.
your video are very good and explanatory
awesome intro pal .
Great information and tutorial. I have a cheapy eBay green laser that the lens fell down loose inside the housing and the brass inner housing will not come out, even though it has threads. Any ideas on that?
I would have to see which laser style you have and what lens is incorrectly positioned, is the laser like the one on this video?
I got the Laser pointer apart. Wondering what lens it is you add in your video.
Any lens from a Red, Blue, or Violet laser is what I used for the IR modification, You will need to make an adapter to hold it if you don't have one handy.
@@Zenodilodon my fingers starting burning when I opened the diode, what can I do please my skin is peeling off now
thanks for sharing
If someone were to add a trimmer to the driver, what resistance would it need to be?
5-20K works. How to install the pot is on my Bare & Basic CD/DVD video.
What if never worked ...I put Batteriers in and I get nothing ... ant help
Your very clever mate. Very informative
I have the same laser , but my laser button is broken. What can i do ?
Switches are fixable however it's not an easy task. I would not bother due to the amount of work involved. It's a heck of a lot easier to purchase another one. You can still use the laser module inside you will just have to solder wires onto it for power.
How do I repair a green laser like yours. My laser dosent turn on anymore
There are some answers in the comments below on various types of issues. With how cheap these pointers it's pretty much a case where I would just save it for parts and buy a new one.
Please tell me you have a video showcasing it and using it when it is new
This laser? lol no... this is a cheap 532nm eBay laser. IMO they are barely worth the effort to walk to the garbage can.
I do have a review on a direct diode 510nm grass green laser pointer that is durable and eye safe. Great purchase for a beginner laser enthusiasts/general use.
i opened mine up then remembered its from ebay and i got 3 for £5, it’s fake, now i can’t get it back together
It's not uncommon to find deals like that, but I have not actually encountered a " fake " laser pointer before. Some maybe are bad quality and might not work well. Taking these lasers apart and putting them back together is a task indeed, even for those who have experience. I wasn't kidding when I said ( And here is the part nobody likes )
I bought a laser 450 NM and where the batteries go the inside is burning what do I do about this it melts and it's only on for maybe 30 seconds
Sounds like the conductor/battery spring isn't thick enough to handle the current being sent to the laser from the battery. I would check those things and replace them if they are too thin. That would be my best guess from what you described.
Thanks for sharing the video, was looking for that! Just an idea... Putting an exact piece of tube a washer and a nut over a longer extending screw (the one you "screwed" in the vice) can make your tool perfect. Then simply tighten the nut to press with the tube against the edge of the housing and gently push the housing off, or pull the laser out, depending on how you look at it. ( if you cant find an exact piece of tube then just take a bigger one and add another washer at the bottom with an exact drilled hole for the housing) Should work :)👍
Hello, how are you, greetings from Mexico, I would like to know if you could give me information on the two increases that you use after the diode. I have a 3000mw pointer but I don't know what graduation they are and where I could get them. I would greatly appreciate it if you give me information.
3000mW? No, direct diode 520/525 only goes to 1600-1800mw, 532nm DPSS only really goes to 100mW. The laser pointer for 3000mW would require a 20,000mW Pump Laser diode with 20A+ battery pack. It would be very large and unlikely to be made. I do not understand " Information on the two increases ". Are you asking about the expanding lens and collimating lens physical characteristics?
Please verify the wavelength of your Laser pointer, if it's a more powerful 520-525nm Laser than the lenses discussed i this video are not applicable and you may require different ones for repair or use. For 532nm glass expanding and collimating lenses can be found on eBay with a search or three. They are all fairly standard for the application.
question, i been trying to make a prop from a game called phasmophobia. im trying to make dots projector but how do i to get to make laser dots grind ?
You will need a dual axis diffraction grating. This can be bought in the form of laser start caps, fire work glasses, or so on. Now, with that said these will have a brighter set of dots in the center compared to the outside but there is next to nothing you can really do about that because physics.
www.amazon.com/Diffraction-Grating-Slide-Excellent-demonstrating/dp/B006ZBDRN0/ref=asc_df_B006ZBDRN0
I also have some mysterious problem with my green 303 laser that's , when i press the switch it work normally with high brightness but after 2 or 3 sec its brightness goes half even if battery is full charged and some time it work normally continuously ( without being deem light ) until i not open the switch ?
( It consuming same power in both condition - 500mw @3.7 V )
So what is the problem ?
* Is its L diode half dead ?
*Or something wrong with its controlling circuit ?
( In circuit there is lm358 opamp , Y1 smd , 431 sot 23 , no pot ) ?
This sounds like you have a bad crystal set, KTP normally operates best at a certain temperature to ensure there is proper phase matching for the doubling process, in most laser heads this is compensated for with a TEC and closed loop feedback. There is also an issue on some of the laser diodes mostly effecting IR and Red where if the junction heats up it will fall out of proper lasing due to thermal expansion. This is also something that laser heads compensate for in the same manor. You can adjust the current/add a pot on the board, to learn how to do this check my CD/DVD Bare&Basic video where I show how to modify the drivers for use with CD and DVD laser diodes. Output drift is common in DPSS laser pointers due to lack of temperature control.
@@Zenodilodon you may be right about Temp dependent x Harmonic crystal but i am observing this effect with in second , when it was new there was no problem but after few days this dimming issue was observed to me.
May be the problem is with circuit or diode itself.
As you said . about ir diode issue , i also think this could be the case..
i tried to see if this issue with its bare IR Diode but its intensity was so bright for cam to notice dimming issue ...
Plz share me its circuit ( one with lm358 opamp )
Thznks
@@omsingharjit The modification for the circuit is on the DVD/CD video, If it's a new problem it's most likely the pump diode. You can view the output of the pump diode without a lens on it to check for dark bars in the output if it's failing but that requires full disassembly. The truth on this is no matter what you try to do for these simply buying another one is often cheaper. For pointers direct diode is a much more stable and efficient option since it doesn't have temp issues. That's part of why I tend to use DPSS style in full laser heads only. My CNI yellow behaves similar and takes quite a few seconds to stabilize, this is the nature of the technology. The green lasers from china also often push their pumps for use with AAA 1.5v/3v and sometimes this makes them prone to either running very well at 3.7-4.2v but also can overdrive the pump. This kind of stuff is tricky and learning about it will most likely result in the death of a few lasers. If you are looking for a good 532nm I would look at getting a 100mw+ module and turning it down 80% or more for long life.
I experienced that , handling (modifying) laser depends on luck . I did salvage lots of Class 2 and 3 lasers for making burning laser but but what i always get failures. All burned some by over voltage some by ESD some by over current and some by physical damage . So m blaming to my luck 🥶😥😕😴
On the upside, you probably haven't cooked as many laser diodes as I have lol
Learning is tough some days.
@@Zenodilodon mean i m on right track :)
Bro I have lost my laser lens ✨
Where will I get it? 😭
hola compre un laser verde 303 y no me prende, osea lo pongo a cargar me dice carga lista y lo prendo y alumbra uy poquito que puede ser
El Laser 303 es una mierda de consumidor. Mucha gente pregunta sobre su reparación. Obtienes lo que pagas en este caso y repararlos no es exactamente posible. El diodo de la bomba funciona por encima de las especificaciones y se queman rápidamente.
I just received my pointer and it is the assassine, but I bought the one that has the danger label and this is the apetureand it doesn't say what size battery well both a Triple A and a Double-A seem to be too big what is the deal there's no instructions or papers at all with it?
Why doesn't A battery fit snugly in there like every other device on the Earth?
damn i took mine appart as i watched only to find out they dont have potentiomiters in anymore
There is a portion in my Bare & Basic CD/DVD video that shows how to mod the drivers and put a potentiometer on the driver. However I will also say if you intend to do a pot mod to turn up the power you will most likely damage your laser's pump diode. Many of the green lasers are already running up to 40 mw output from the factory. keep in mind for every mw you get out in green you are turning up the pump 10x that much ( 40 >60 mw means 200mw over power on the IR pump diodes )
Obrigado por compartilhar excelente conteúdo, like mais um inscrito
your cool thanks
13:26min, COMO DESMONTAR ??? CORTOU O VÍDEO... BIG THANKS MY FRIEND !!!
Esa parte de la unidad se presiona desde la parte posterior donde está el diodo de la bomba. Lo que hice fue empujar todo por delante con una varilla de metal. No conozco una forma de desmontar esa parte del láser sin dañar completamente las lentes de plástico y el diodo de bombeo. Por esta razón, solo mostré las partes para el principio de funcionamiento. Que yo sepa, no existe una forma no destructiva de desmontar.
Thank you for your video, it helped me a lot. I found my green laser pointer had battery leakage, and I had to take it apart to clean it properly. Now I'm trying to check if it's working properly, and I'd like to ask you, how did you attach the wires to close the circuit?
Positive connects to the outer brass hose of the laser diode a wire can be soldered directly to the same pad the case pin is. Note that some newer greens have a cheap flat package laser diode and those you will have to trace the connection for + which is pretty easy with close visual inspection. The negative is the spring, a wire can be soldered to the side of the switch closest to the switch to use the switch or soldered on the side closer to the laser diode to bypass the switch needing to be turned on.
@@Zenodilodon thank you very much for the help. I would have one more question, about the mca: when the laser turns on the light is red, but when I put on the mca, it stays red, yet I see the light passing through the crystal. I tried putting it both ways, but it doesn't seem to help.
@@alexbitter9147 Be careful of that dim red light, it could be pretty dangerous levels of IR. The pump diode in yours simply may of failed or your batteries aren't able to provide current ( this happens with cheaper alkaline batteries ) You should be getting a very clean dim red line with a little sparkle ( easiest to see on a black object ) if the pump it good. If there is no sparkle/speckle or there are dark bands seen in the output this could indicate damage to the pump diode. You're most likely going to have to just get a new laser if this is the case.
@@Zenodilodon alright, thank you, I'll be careful with the light, and I'm really grateful for your video and advices on the topic. I will try the options you suggested, hopefully the laser will come back to life. In any case, thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it:D
Is this Millhouse' voice over?
Nope, Milhouse has a much better microphone than I do.
Wach for IR laser light leakage, ware IR blocking glasess.
The IR warning on green laser pointers is for the most part blown out of proportion. Most of the IR dangers come from working on the inside of larger DPSS laser heads and not pointers. Tests where done as I talked about this semi-misinformation on my shunt mod video and I also explain a little of the true dangers as well.
Can baking soda be used to dry the super glue instantly in this reassembly?
Yes it can be. I also use super glue accelerators or just a small drop of rubbing alcohol to cut set times. I strongly recommend to also have forces airflow on parts you are gluing to prevent fumes from contacting optical surfaces and wrecking them.
Beautiful vidio
I have a xpro v2 532nm that won’t turn on anymore.. battery shows charged and all.. nervous the diode driver board is fried .. do you work on them where I could send you this? Thanks and let me know
It's not often a driver fails in a 532nm pointer. You can check to see if the driver is passing current by using a meter in current/amps and placing it in the circuit where the battery cap goes using the meter to complete the circuit ( one probe on battery contact and one on laser housing/case ) If the meter shows current it could also be the pump diode. Another way to tell if it's the pump diode. Another thing to carefully check for is if you can spot a tiny amount of red light inside of the laser. However checking this can be hazardous if there is a lot of IR if there has been another type of failure.
I don't repair laser pointers, I generally only work on show laser systems and lab lasers. I hope you understand.
@@Zenodilodon thanks for the info.. I just don’t understand how it has sat for months and go to use it and nothing.. I am not at all great with electrical stuff so that’s why I asked if you could fix this.. hate to spend another 60$+ on new one has this one has only been used hand full of times ☹️
I have one question: how increase the heating of laser pointer?
What do you mean by heating? How to make it run cooler in general or how to make it run warmer such as in certain laser heads?
Yeah. how to make it run more warmer such as in certain laser heads?
@@tetraederzufrequenz Hmm, I am guessing you have a green that takes a while to warm up? You can try to place a small resistor 100ohm or less. A better PTC heating element by your crystal set. I have also found that using a single rechargeable lithium ion battery AAA size with a home made battery spacer for accommodating the missing battery is a really good solution. Make sure to electrically insulate the outside of the spacer, Often times regular AAAs don't push the needed current very well.
@@Zenodilodon Thank you to give me the solution. I will try to do that. Thanks
thats not what he meant. He is trying to make the diode more powerful not overheat it
Lol you have the same curse I did at that age. I was 31 and looked 21. Great video man. Have you tried any upgrades using the irlu7843 mosfet yet?
It's a good curse to have overall, though the grey hairs are slowly starting to come through. One day I'll be Zenodilodon the grey lol. What do you mean by upgrades? I use many Mosfets here ranging from small and fast all the way up to fets such as the apt20m11.
@@Zenodilodon The Styropyro dude did a video on ebay pen lasers and he was using them in his and was saying that it was pretty much the most power you could squeeze into such a small setup and will switch up to 620 amps of current. I'd love to get my hands on the NDG7475 diode he uses too but my wife would kill me if I spent that much on a laser.
@@anomicxtreme 620 amps aye, but for how long lol. There are lots of powerful diodes out there but I tend to stay away from the ones that got past 2W because of their terrible beam specs. I don't really get into the burning laser pointer stuff at all these days and have slid heavily into the DPSS stuff for their astounding beam characteristics. In that regard I am the swiss pocket watch to styros big ben. I say go for it and make yourself a powerful gadget, a loving wife will understand! :P
@@Zenodilodon if I could honestly afford it I would definitely. Like how you compare yourself to styro it really comes down to accessibility and $$. Remember, he's been doing these videos forever, like 12 or 13 years I think? My problem is that aside from the lack of funds I don't have the benefit of being near a big city. I'm way at the top of the lower part of Michigan and there's nothing up here. I grew up in Detroit and that's the only thing I miss is the crazy stuff that the factories would just give away or toss out lol.
Can i make at home because i have Those Lenses
I am not sure of your particular abilities to do something. If you choose to attempt it please understand all the risks before doing so.
But why my green laser does not has any chip like your ? Instead two rasistor 4.7 ohm and 5.1 ohm also its laser diode made of plastic instead brass ?
Sounds like you have a direct diode laser is it 520/515nm?
This video is for the DPSS 532nm style that is much more common.
Your board is also probably a boostmode driver much like the 405nm laser pointers. If your wondering more about those types of drivers check out my shunt mod video. If you are intending to do a pot/power mod ( however it's not recommended ) all the information on how to calculate the current shunt resistor value is on that video.
For more information pertaining to your particular application just reply and I will be happy to help you out.
@@Zenodilodon no , my laser pointer was green , and it has not any inductor or ic so i think its current is only limited
By resistor ? But unfortunately is distorted it by pulling its structure from spring side ( battery connection side ) i thought because it was able to rotate by some degree so i decided to pull it out using nose pliers but because of my bad luck diodes leads brocked off from board and also some from diode because it was made of plastic not brass type diode
:( so i find structure of mine green laser was much different then most of your but it was not different from outside .
@@omsingharjit Ah I understand what you mean by chip now. I thought you may of been talking about the crystal in the laser because you said there was a diode in plastic. I get what ya mean, you're driver is missing the LM385 8 pin op amp. Yes some laser drivers that are very cheap use only a few components, a little 3 pin adjustable current shunt (TL431) a few resistors and a bigger transistor that's usually a D882. The resistors that are closest to the TL431 are almost always for current adjustment. Changing either one of them should have an effect on the power. Keep in mind if your turning power up that you don't have much heat sinking due to plastic and that the diodes are already about 200mw on the pump if it's DPSS. For every mw of green you gain you add 10mw to the pump which can easily lead to a lot of stress on the 808 pump laser diode.
@@Zenodilodon you will not believe me , that there was no any active components other than Laser diode itself . There was one Push button , two resistors and diode .!
for anyone wondering. that next video never went up
Nope not yet, I am planning the DVD for summer since there is a lot I want to cover in it.
Here's a question why do red and blue lasers die in the cold no where near as easily as the green?
Direct diode lasers are not as temperature sensitive as DPSS (IE 532nm). The reason for this is because of the nonlinear crystal inside ( IE KTP in a 532nm laser pointer ) When the photons enter the crystal they do so as an electromagnetic wave. These waves have a phase both in the electric field and the magnetic field component. Like other waves they also have peaks and nodes, in a laser these wave are very consistent due to being a single wavelength. The nonlinear crystal has to match up an incoming wave with a reflected wave to effectively combine 2 waves together to act on the electrons in the nonlinear crystal. So imagine in your head putting 2 basic sinusoidal waves together. Just like say, saw teeth there are points where they perfectly overlap or not if you slide one wave side to side. Let's consider a particular aliment to be "phase matched" Now consider this tolerance is in the manometer range because the waves you are dealing with are that small. (IE human hair is about 70,000nm wide, in a 532nm laser the tolerance for phase matching would be a fraction of 532nm, say within 15% or 80-100nm. This is a very very small tolerance and is important to note. Now consider material thermal expansion coefficient properties where things expand when warmer and shrink when colder. So in the laser we have a crystal, that needs to be withing 100nm of a suitable length to work of which temperature changes it's size. Temperature changes the location of the mirrored coating on the crystal and moves the reflected waves out of phase compared to the incoming ones.( Laser heads usually have a whole resonator assembly ). This explains why the DPSS laser pointers don't like cold, and why most DPSS laser systems require a warm up time. You will see this in a few of my DPSS videos as well as the TECs and feedback thermistors that regulate temperatures of optical components for this reason.
In a direct diode laser the light is generated by a molecular band gap length and secondary properties such as spacing between the mirrored surfaces inside of the laser diode. These of course are also effected by temperature. As you cool down a laser diode it contracts and the band gap gets smaller as well as the spacing between mirrored internal surfaces. This increases the frequency of the laser ( up in thz, down in nm ). This is why you can super cool a red laser diode and make it go orange, or super heat a blue and have it start to go green as it expands. The upside is diodes themselves don't rely on phase matching as much and tend to still work regardless. However some laser diodes such as low power reds will lose output when too hot.
I hope that thoroughly answers your question.
@@Zenodilodon oh yeah that definitely did. thank you very much
@@sumobear1777 Glad to hear it.
GREAT Video!
So to be clear is better to remove the expanding lens?
No, I had just not put it back on when I was doing the demo. Since I tend to buy these only for the drivers I had no intent on fully restoring the laser. Not putting that part in was an oversight on my behalf. The expanding lens almost never comes off during impact damage or used in the IR mod. You're the first person to point that out and ask if memory serves me.
@@Zenodilodon i was just wondering cause if the beam is smaller it's more powerful i gues impressive you reply on all your comments keep up the good work
@@FlashLightDylan The beam is smaller and has more energy density in the near field yes, but to get a collimated beam it first needs to be a certain roundness. It's actually somewhat an inverse function, the smaller of a beam you start with the worse the divergence you'll end up with. If you want the power close up using the beam right off the crystal assembly is a great option. I'd say throw a clear dust proofing window on it though to prevent contaminating the coatings. Thanks for the compliment, I try to keep up with comments as best as I can!
What kind of glasses would I need to see the IR but also be safe?
That is a good question. Your eyes cannot see IR all that you see is a very faint red. In my videos I use a camera phone that is modified to see IR which is done by removing the IR filter. There are videos on how to do this on UA-cam. You can at that point get a VR headset made to convert your phone use ones with a single lens as it doesn't work with side by side because you will be using a phone's camera. This is the only way to accomplish both at once.
Was his cap plastic or metal
These where plastic. I usually try to save the metal ones when I can but they are getting rarer in ebay lasers. In any case this is why I suggest wrapping several layers of tape around the top if you want to keep the cap in good condition.
Hi there. Just wondering if you have a link to a wiring diagram for the pcb's at 4:35? And at 3:45 do you think it would be possible to get the diameter down to 6mm? Thanks.
I do not have the exact diagram no, but I have a friend who is currently making some very very small drivers. Currently he only has boosting ones but I am working on getting him to make some linear drivers using similar parts as the green laser pointers since they are slowly being phased out by a board with a resistor on it that is garbage. If your interested in little drivers e-mail me and I will put you in contact with my friend.
Can I use a 1 W green led and make a laser??
Nope, a Laser diode junction is made differently then an LED junction.
@@Zenodilodon both draw same amount of milliamps I mean compared to DVD burner laser diode Sony dvd burner
@@avonfonds2567 lmao that's like saying a Fiat and a Ferrari have the same size gas tank, so maybe we could put a new muffler on the Fiat and see it perform as well as the Ferrari on the track. Ain't gonna happen my friend..
I do That to my láser because the part of the batteries has burned out so I broke my laser and just saving the circuit, like in the min. 10:00, how can I connect or use the laser in that conditions?
If you pulled the whole module out the outside of the diode host is + and the spring contact is -. Connect your battery at those points. You'd have to clarify your question and status of your laser's condition for more precise information.
@@Zenodilodon It is the entire circuit, it just doesn't have the second lens, it has the spring, the plate, the button, then the diode that is still inside the gray cylinder and then the laser and the lens, it is literally the entire circuit without the second lens, just It does not have the tube where the batteries go
And what I want to do is use the laser, since I spent $300mx and at some point the tube where the batteries go stopped working, the laser I think still works, so I just want to know how to use it without the tube
@@rozerovdemon6664 Yeah the grey cylinder is + positive and the spring is -
The newer cheap laser pointers tend to not have a proper regulating driver in them for current. Look on the board, if you see an 8 pin part that says LM358 or another 6 pin chip you can put up to 5v. If the board only has resistors do not exceed 3V or you may cook your laser diode!
I'm wondering, if I could mod an laser 303 525nm rated as < 200 mW - with G2 glass focusing lense (for blue laser, but already on AliExpress some shops already specs it for wavelength 400-700nm) optics. It has tread M9x0.5
And working distance is 2357mm (2.3meter)
Could it fit somehow inside of 303 laser? Appreciate your help ☺️
If the threads of the module in your 303 is M9 then a G2 should work as I believe they use an M9 thread on the carriers as well. However you probably will get few gains as a green direct diode has a pretty narrow output, the g2 works best with the multimode diodes with larger outputs, the wider lens helps cut divergence issues with big emitters. What you intend to do with your laser determines what lens is optimal along with the laser itself.
Note that your 303 is for sure 525 and direct diode as replacing the lens on a mislabeled 532nm will not function the same as a direct diode laser. For practical comparisons I would suggest looking at some of the pictures posted on DTR's Laser Shop.
Working distance 2.3 meter.... what? Does the beam stop at that point? lol
@@Zenodilodon 2.3m it's max Focusing distance - for getting burning point. As AliExpress say... Didn't tested this. Is this even possible?
@@FPV777 The larger your lens is in width, generally making your beam wider at the aperture will lower divergence overall. If you want to burning at a distance. A beam expander or simple refraction telescope will greatly increase distance. You can also fully remove the original lens and experiment with larger positive power lenses externally for greater distance.
I have not used the G2 personally, nor do I know the current lens of you laser. Many people say that it's a good lens, personally I like the smaller beams of the compound collimating lenses.
nice vid
Hello sir! I just stumbled upon your great tutorial, i only have one question, i do have the one that has an aluminum casing for the diode itself, do i need to remove the condensing lense as well?
It seems to be tightly glued in place and I'm afraid of breaking the diode.
I have already followed everything on this vid, put the whole assembly all back together and when i tested it, it only shown a tiny faint red dot but it doesn't burn anything at all.
And it seems to be on good focus..
I haven't changed the original lens with the concave ones cause i currently don't have one, and i saw on your vid that will still burn at least bit.
I can't remove the diode from the casing to remove the spring and the condensing lense to test it out..
@@alphaalpha3557 You shouldn't need to remove the condensing lens. The original lens only captures a faction of the light, while sometimes there is still enough power that always isn't the case. Sadly since the making of this video there has also been several changes in the way these cheap green laser pointers are made which has significantly decreased their quality. I am actually going to do a video on that and have purchased 3 cheap laser pointers, circas 1995, 2015, and 2023 to show the decline in quality. Part of the problem simply comes down to that and the pump may not be as powerful as they used to be. I also used a single 10440 in many of my pointers which is 4.2v and not 2x1.5v. This gives the laser a little more power to work with usually. The problem is one of the quality cutbacks has been the removal of the constant current driver and has simply been replaced with a resistor. Attempting to run 4.2v in newer laser points of this type simply run the risk of instant laser damage resulting in an unusable device. I would try using 1.6v NiZn rechargeable batteries to see if that helps in addition to the proper lens.
@@Zenodilodon thank you sir! Now i know that the driver itself was the problem.
I currently have a diy mini engraver project that I plan to make all out of scratch. I almost completed every part of it, but modifying the laser I currently have has been very frustrating.
I might not invest more time and effort building a suitable driver for the existing diode from my crappy green laser. Coz it's more practical and easier to just order a better one.(i guess)
Anyway, I HAVE LEARNED A LOT because of your videos sir!
So again thank you!
I hope you post more videos about anything in the future.
And I wish you all success in every aspect in life.
-technerd from Philippines
I broke my laser light because I lost the chip of 8:00 where from I buy this chip
Can you merge multiple beams into one to increase total power output?
Yes and no. These lasers can be combined with knife edge arrays or by means of PBS cube or both. This information is covered in videos where I rebuild laser heads with multiple lasers combined to make one beam. There are limitations to these methods but are the only options available due to the physics.
Very very very good vidéo👍! Thank you for all informations ^^! Hmm.. okay honestly +1 subscriber for that because i really love laser and your vidéo was a real paradise of explaination for this so thanksfull and Keep going on this way😉 !!!
Ps: Love from France🇨🇵
Thank you for such kind words! I intend to continue bringing more information about lasers coming on this channel! It's my passion and I will be lasering for life! If you have any questions on a laser topic let me know and I will try to help as best as I can. Be well and laser on!
@@Zenodilodon 😉👌
Hola
The clear disk on my laser came off now the laser dot is all fuzzy
You'd have to be more specific on what part came off and what fuzzy means. But it sounds like the expanding lens and possible dirt/oil on the lens. If it's plastic wash with soap and water avoiding contact with the lens surface. It it's glass use alcohol. glue the part back in with epoxy and note optical alignments.
How to teardown green laser pointer 303?
Never took one apart, but I hear they can be a pain. I think my friend ( Channel Giannis_TDM ) may know how to take them apart.
Great video! Love it!
How to remove diode
They are usually press fit in and are open can, for the DPSS 532nm greens it's nearly impossible to remove them without destroying them. The best option I have found is a piece of brass tubing that will fit around the can or die and using a vice to press them out. Honestly they are so cheap and prone to the diode being broken I consider them disposable items. Sometimes the diode host is nice if it's all metal/brass and i save those.
you replied little bit late , i just , removed diode from 303 Green laser , you are right it's impossible to remove without destroying it , that's why i had to cut its casing . by the way i have an idea to remove it without distorting it , can you plz try it in any video ? so i can share
@@omsingharjit I don't have any plans for making another video around the cheapo 532nm laser pointers, I can see about putting a little blurb in a video if your idea works next time I purchase a bunch for the drivers. I don't typically use the laser assembly other than for IR illuminators and for very cheap drivers to mod for use in other projects.