Hi Hector, Fredrick is right. I service these tuning fork watches, and this one is an ESA9162 movement badged up as a B&M calibre (Omega's version is the 1250 calibre). The object 'stuck' to the tuning fork cup is not plastic, it is in fact one of the 3 metal movement clamps that hold the movement in the case. You can see only 1 is in its correct place around the edge and held with a screw, the other 2 and their screws have come loose and might be elsewhere in the watch or have been lost. The tuning fork has 2 very strong permanent magnets ( 1 in each cup) and the case clamp is held in place on it from this magnetic force (no glue). This is what is stopping the watch running correctly as it is hindering and reducing the amplitude of the tuning fork oscillations, and the index jewel is not moving far enough to latch over the edge of the tooth on the index wheel. It will probably work just fine as soon as you very carefully remove the stray clamp with something non-magnetic like a toothpick. Do not touch/damage the copper coil wires. The index wheel is most likely in good condition, and the index jewel is vibrating it back and forth. The index and pawl fingers/jewels look to be well aligned to the index wheel. Also, these movements do not have cannon pinions like traditional mechanical movements, there is a friction wheel that has to be correctly lubricated to achieve the right friction and this is the likely cause that the seconds hand spins clockwise; if it was spinning in the other direction the index wheel teeth would be shaved away and destroyed in seconds by the index and pawl jewels, so it is very important that the friction wheel is serviced or replaced right now. The tuning fork itself should never be demagnetised during a service. Unless you are an expert on these movements you should not attempt to service them. Also never move the seconds hand backwards as it will destroy the index wheel, the rear electronics module needs to be removed from the watch first before anything else is done. You can find and download the ESA9162 service manual pdf on-line for free. Hope this helps, good luck, Andrew.
I have over 300 tuning fork watches that I repair and maintain by myself…have many replacement parts that makes it very convenient to make repairs..have practically every model that was ever made, IWC and Baume & Mercier included..
Bulova made a watch similar named the Accutron. I was in a watch repair school when I first saw one and I took it apart and screwed it up by putting the bridge on without moving the fingers out of the way first, it took me nearly an hour under the microscope to straighten them back out.
Hi William, I've watched some videos about the Accutron, but I've never had one to work on. yes I agree, tunning fork movement are very delicate to work on, especially the fingers, and the index wheel parts. Thanks for commenting. Cheers!
Upon opening the back, a visual inspection even before checking the battery, you can see a battery clamp on the left cup of the magnetic tuning fork. Chances are, the watch will start running
Man thank you, you my hero, this problem with fast moving arrows, ok I understand it, buuut feck, I don't have such powerful zoom to check teeth of index wheel, damn, I need to improve my instruments
@@SpaceSpice yes, it should be fine. I normally use x20 or x40. Almost never you will need higher than that. I use an amscope microscope, the quality is decent. The only problem I have with it is that the working distace is just one or two inches max. In the future I would love to get one that gives me at least 6 inch of working distance, but they are expensive lol 😆
@@watchesgoon yeah with such zoom its very cool to operate with parts, but because of this distance from lens you can only check this all.. thank you for advices, not many information around about servicing and operating with f300 watches, its quite difficult to find useful information about specific cases for repair, as a newbie watchmaker I need to study a lot. Btw any tips about cleaning mechanical parts? Or its the same as the process for typical mechanical watches? Got one Omega f300 working and keep time very good, but I was shocked when disassembled movement it was all in dirt, and still working wow
@@SpaceSpice when it comes to cleaning watch parts I use naphta and 99% IPA. Some other folks use L&R products, but I've been using naphta and IPA with excellent result so far. Now, bear in mind that tuning fork movements have mechanical and electronic components, for those movements I would go toward the L&R products instead of the naphta and IPA. Also, the jewels on the index fingers might be held in place with shellac which disolves in IPA. The same happens with the pallet fork jewels, and the impulse stone on a full mechanical watch. So, when using degreasers and cleaning agents you have to consider all the variables so you don't cause more harm than good. The safest route for movements like the one on your omega 300 would be L&R products, in my opinion. I am a hobbyist like you. Have fun. Cheers
how much work have you actually done on movements like this? Bulova is the inventor of this movement and yes that wheel is delicate and may be destroyed but huge amounts of these movements stil works today without much issiue. I have a hard time accepting that the shape of the wheel is the cause here because as you can see the thoots are all basicly the same size and shape then you would claim the someone has destryed all 320ish tootha equally, no going to happen. have you even considerd that it needs a cleaning and oiling, and what about that "object" that looks like stuck on the left coil. Nope this watch is probably not suffering from a bad wheel its suffering non existent service.
Hi friend. What you see on the left coil is a piece of plastic that got glued there. How it got glued there? IDK either jjj. I did not want to remove it for a couple reasons. The most important one is that the wire used on these coils are thinner than a hair. Trying to remove a glued plastic from that coil would probably mess it up. I did not want to run the risk. Second, the watch hums, so the stucked piece of plastic is not causing the coil to stop doing its job. Now, I know that from the video it is actually difficult to get the full grasp of what is going on. Under my 🔬 I could easily see the index fingers sliding/slipping instead of pushing on the index wheel teeth. The index wheel is not stucked. I can move it with a pieces of pegwood, and it also moves freely when trying to set the watch in time. That it needs an overhaul? Yes, I agree, but it won't restore the index wheel. We are talking about microscopic teeth, things that can't be seen with a naked eye, and they are extremely delicate. Now, on the video I use a mix of pictures to show what an index wheel should look like, and short videos from my 🔬 to show the action of the index fingers, and the bad shape of the index wheel. Hopefully this answers somehow your questions lol. It is also valid to say that I am a hobbyist.
@@watchesgoonabsolutely not a piece of plastic, it’s a metal movement hold down clamp that’s absolutely disrupting the tuning fork frequency. Simply comparing the clamp like what other commenters have said would show you a huge fault with the watch you chose to dismiss, a piece of plastic lmao what a joke
Hi Hector, Fredrick is right. I service these tuning fork watches, and this one is an ESA9162 movement badged up as a B&M calibre (Omega's version is the 1250 calibre). The object 'stuck' to the tuning fork cup is not plastic, it is in fact one of the 3 metal movement clamps that hold the movement in the case. You can see only 1 is in its correct place around the edge and held with a screw, the other 2 and their screws have come loose and might be elsewhere in the watch or have been lost. The tuning fork has 2 very strong permanent magnets ( 1 in each cup) and the case clamp is held in place on it from this magnetic force (no glue). This is what is stopping the watch running correctly as it is hindering and reducing the amplitude of the tuning fork oscillations, and the index jewel is not moving far enough to latch over the edge of the tooth on the index wheel. It will probably work just fine as soon as you very carefully remove the stray clamp with something non-magnetic like a toothpick. Do not touch/damage the copper coil wires. The index wheel is most likely in good condition, and the index jewel is vibrating it back and forth. The index and pawl fingers/jewels look to be well aligned to the index wheel. Also, these movements do not have cannon pinions like traditional mechanical movements, there is a friction wheel that has to be correctly lubricated to achieve the right friction and this is the likely cause that the seconds hand spins clockwise; if it was spinning in the other direction the index wheel teeth would be shaved away and destroyed in seconds by the index and pawl jewels, so it is very important that the friction wheel is serviced or replaced right now. The tuning fork itself should never be demagnetised during a service. Unless you are an expert on these movements you should not attempt to service them. Also never move the seconds hand backwards as it will destroy the index wheel, the rear electronics module needs to be removed from the watch first before anything else is done. You can find and download the ESA9162 service manual pdf on-line for free. Hope this helps, good luck, Andrew.
If the second hand can be moved backwards it is not serviced properly
Hello, was wondering if I could get some advice on an Omega 9162 movement I recently acquired, is there anyway I can reach you out?
@@Meisterhix are you able to put your email ID here?
I have over 300 tuning fork watches that I repair and maintain by myself…have many replacement parts that makes it very convenient to make repairs..have practically every model that was ever made, IWC and Baume & Mercier included..
Bulova made a watch similar named the Accutron. I was in a watch repair school when I first saw one and I took it apart and screwed it up by putting the bridge on without moving the fingers out of the way first, it took me nearly an hour under the microscope to straighten them back out.
Hi William,
I've watched some videos about the Accutron, but I've never had one to work on.
yes I agree, tunning fork movement are very delicate to work on, especially the fingers, and the index wheel parts.
Thanks for commenting. Cheers!
@@watchesgoon 😁👍
Very informative video sir . Keep shining 🌟
Thanks for your comment and support :)
The old watch I have with a tuning fork has quarts crystal in cased around the tuning fork I do belive!
Upon opening the back, a visual inspection even before checking the battery, you can see a battery clamp on the left cup of the magnetic tuning fork. Chances are, the watch will start running
You mean a case clamp, not the battery clamp. If you look closer, you will see that there is a second case clamp missing also as well as both screws.
Man thank you, you my hero, this problem with fast moving arrows, ok I understand it, buuut feck, I don't have such powerful zoom to check teeth of index wheel, damn, I need to improve my instruments
Thanks for you comment Space SpicE. A microscope makes the difference when it comes to such tiny parts. Cheers
@@watchesgoon is it enough to have x60 zoom for such works?
@@SpaceSpice yes, it should be fine. I normally use x20 or x40. Almost never you will need higher than that. I use an amscope microscope, the quality is decent. The only problem I have with it is that the working distace is just one or two inches max. In the future I would love to get one that gives me at least 6 inch of working distance, but they are expensive lol 😆
@@watchesgoon yeah with such zoom its very cool to operate with parts, but because of this distance from lens you can only check this all.. thank you for advices, not many information around about servicing and operating with f300 watches, its quite difficult to find useful information about specific cases for repair, as a newbie watchmaker I need to study a lot. Btw any tips about cleaning mechanical parts? Or its the same as the process for typical mechanical watches? Got one Omega f300 working and keep time very good, but I was shocked when disassembled movement it was all in dirt, and still working wow
@@SpaceSpice when it comes to cleaning watch parts I use naphta and 99% IPA. Some other folks use L&R products, but I've been using naphta and IPA with excellent result so far. Now, bear in mind that tuning fork movements have mechanical and electronic components, for those movements I would go toward the L&R products instead of the naphta and IPA. Also, the jewels on the index fingers might be held in place with shellac which disolves in IPA. The same happens with the pallet fork jewels, and the impulse stone on a full mechanical watch. So, when using degreasers and cleaning agents you have to consider all the variables so you don't cause more harm than good. The safest route for movements like the one on your omega 300 would be L&R products, in my opinion. I am a hobbyist like you. Have fun. Cheers
how much work have you actually done on movements like this? Bulova is the inventor of this movement and yes that wheel is delicate and may be destroyed but huge amounts of these movements stil works today without much issiue. I have a hard time accepting that the shape of the wheel is the cause here because as you can see the thoots are all basicly the same size and shape then you would claim the someone has destryed all 320ish tootha equally, no going to happen. have you even considerd that it needs a cleaning and oiling, and what about that "object" that looks like stuck on the left coil. Nope this watch is probably not suffering from a bad wheel its suffering non existent service.
Hi friend. What you see on the left coil is a piece of plastic that got glued there. How it got glued there? IDK either jjj. I did not want to remove it for a couple reasons. The most important one is that the wire used on these coils are thinner than a hair. Trying to remove a glued plastic from that coil would probably mess it up. I did not want to run the risk. Second, the watch hums, so the stucked piece of plastic is not causing the coil to stop doing its job.
Now, I know that from the video it is actually difficult to get the full grasp of what is going on. Under my 🔬 I could easily see the index fingers sliding/slipping instead of pushing on the index wheel teeth. The index wheel is not stucked. I can move it with a pieces of pegwood, and it also moves freely when trying to set the watch in time.
That it needs an overhaul? Yes, I agree, but it won't restore the index wheel. We are talking about microscopic teeth, things that can't be seen with a naked eye, and they are extremely delicate. Now, on the video I use a mix of pictures to show what an index wheel should look like, and short videos from my 🔬 to show the action of the index fingers, and the bad shape of the index wheel. Hopefully this answers somehow your questions lol. It is also valid to say that I am a hobbyist.
@@watchesgoonabsolutely not a piece of plastic, it’s a metal movement hold down clamp that’s absolutely disrupting the tuning fork frequency. Simply comparing the clamp like what other commenters have said would show you a huge fault with the watch you chose to dismiss, a piece of plastic lmao what a joke