Regarding the drilled barrels, I don't. I don't care what anyone says or thinks about it because there's absolutely no reason to do it. They aren't supposed to be realistic, it's not required (if it was then they would come that way), and everyone is different. I have nerve damage in both hands, so even painting a mini is hard enough without trying to bore a hole into the plastic that isn't a requirement.if you do it then good on you. If not, then good on you as well.
I believe that with the Extra Thin rather than layering the two halves and pushing them together you can push them together, then run the brush along the seam and the glue is so thin that capillary action will pull it into the seam to make it so you don't need to coat both halves and then awkwardly remember how to squish them together before the plastic starts melting.
@@MiniatureHobbyist Aggaros dunes over silver works aswell but it's a little more ''old'' or ''used'' gold. But i like it, it isn't too shiny and looks more realistic
If orks, no need to drill the barrels. Just say your orks just made weapons out of solid pieces of metal and when they yell dakka, the weapons just work. All good, no need to drill.
Tamiya extra thin - stinks like high gravy, but joins really well designed for capillary action, i.e. hold parts together and run the brush over the edges. tamiya thin - same as extra thin, not as whiffy, same capillary action. - also great for creating sprue goo Tamiya thick (fikk) - ideal for load bearing or heavy structures - like tanks or knights
I am just starting out in the hobby and trying out a bunch of techniques on my first set of ultramarines. I have watched a LOT of ultramarine tutorials and funnily enough this is my favorite end result and color scheme along with being a lot easier than other guides!
I bought two sets of colored sharpie markers for detail work, fine, and extra-fine I think? I used the red one for the inside of the cape which I felt was easier than painting the line.
I love your videos. Been following for awhile and you’ve inspired me to just get the painting done. There’s two tricks I can recommend for gold. The first way is to paint a mid tone brown first and then the gold. You might have to still do two layers but it gives it warmth even if the layers aren’t completely opaque. The way I’ve been trying recently with success is painting Vallejo aluminum metal color (very pigment dense metal that covers in a single coat) and then applying a light Iyanden yellow once dry. You can use this for any color, from turquoise magic metal to an assassin’s darkened or poisoned blade just by picking a different contrast to layer. I learned that from another UA-camr (I’ve forgot who unfortunately). Hope that helps!
Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is a much cheaper version of the Tamyia Extra Thin Cement (same two ingredients, 1% difference in composition, glues/melts the same) - higher price, but much larger containers. Just a tip when people need to buy new glue.
This is the first of your videos that I’ve seen (sorry). I really enjoyed and the Marine turned out brilliant with little fuss. I’ve just bought the HH Age of Darkness box set and will give this technique a shot, when I’ve decided to go Traitor or Loyalist 😅👍
Cheers bud, I have a drw full of them, I hate throwing things away in case I find a use for them, I hadnt even considered sprue goo but might try that lol 🙂
Looks awesome, but I recommend a black wash for any silver metallics, that light brown looks like rust which looks weird coz the rest of him looks so crisp and clean.
Check out Chaos Cards (use discount code CHECKMATE which will give 5% off) www.chaoscards.co.uk/shop/miniature-games 🙂
Regarding the drilled barrels, I don't. I don't care what anyone says or thinks about it because there's absolutely no reason to do it. They aren't supposed to be realistic, it's not required (if it was then they would come that way), and everyone is different. I have nerve damage in both hands, so even painting a mini is hard enough without trying to bore a hole into the plastic that isn't a requirement.if you do it then good on you. If not, then good on you as well.
the funny part is, some odels do actually have the holes there, so they could do it on all of them if they wanted.
Well said, yup this hobby is all about enjoyment of what you do and not what others think 🙂
For me it's actually that I hate when I can't center it, so not drilling actually is better
I have remained neutral in the conflict of drilled barrels. I just hope to someday see peace between these two peoples. For the sake of all of us.....
Just paint or pen it on
Haha, regarding the gun barrels, some people take that far too seriously.
Sod em. It's just plastic.
Yup there is a war over it lol 🙂
I believe that with the Extra Thin rather than layering the two halves and pushing them together you can push them together, then run the brush along the seam and the glue is so thin that capillary action will pull it into the seam to make it so you don't need to coat both halves and then awkwardly remember how to squish them together before the plastic starts melting.
Ahh cheers for the info, that all makes sense 🙂
Amazing glue technique, thank you Robbie.
You can get a really good gold with contrast paints. Nazdreg yellow over bright silver.
That is a paint I need to get 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist Aggaros dunes over silver works aswell but it's a little more ''old'' or ''used'' gold. But i like it, it isn't too shiny and looks more realistic
Have you done a video for the Space marine jump pack knights?
If orks, no need to drill the barrels. Just say your orks just made weapons out of solid pieces of metal and when they yell dakka, the weapons just work. All good, no need to drill.
If you’re not getting enjoyment in painting your minis then just don’t do it. No one is holding a gun to your head to paint minis. Lol
BTW what did you use to varnish the model at the end?
"bit of backdoor activity" :D
hehe 🙂
how do you avoid stains with speedpaints?
The mold lines.
It burns the eyes.
Tamiya extra thin - stinks like high gravy, but joins really well designed for capillary action, i.e. hold parts together and run the brush over the edges.
tamiya thin - same as extra thin, not as whiffy, same capillary action. - also great for creating sprue goo
Tamiya thick (fikk) - ideal for load bearing or heavy structures - like tanks or knights
Cheers for the info, next time I will get the thin stuff then as yup this does smell lol 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist nose plugs 😂
This model came out incredibly! Will need to give the pre shading slapchop method a try
Its been a game changer for me, I love painting minis now 🙂
Another excellent video and its a great tutorial for beginners on painting techniques. Thanks Jon
Cheers buddy 🙂
You are very welcome Jon
I am the lowest of the low
Haha, Ive only just started drilling barrels, everyone cn do what they enjoy 🙂
Can we see the finish chess set
Once its finished yup, another 5 miniatures to paint then all complete 🙂
I am just starting out in the hobby and trying out a bunch of techniques on my first set of ultramarines.
I have watched a LOT of ultramarine tutorials and funnily enough this is my favorite end result and color scheme along with being a lot easier than other guides!
I bought two sets of colored sharpie markers for detail work, fine, and extra-fine I think? I used the red one for the inside of the cape which I felt was easier than painting the line.
I love your videos. Been following for awhile and you’ve inspired me to just get the painting done. There’s two tricks I can recommend for gold. The first way is to paint a mid tone brown first and then the gold. You might have to still do two layers but it gives it warmth even if the layers aren’t completely opaque. The way I’ve been trying recently with success is painting Vallejo aluminum metal color (very pigment dense metal that covers in a single coat) and then applying a light Iyanden yellow once dry. You can use this for any color, from turquoise magic metal to an assassin’s darkened or poisoned blade just by picking a different contrast to layer. I learned that from another UA-camr (I’ve forgot who unfortunately). Hope that helps!
Love the colors. He turned out great. You slap chopped the hell out of it! :)
would love to see you try and paint a dreadnaught this way!
Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is a much cheaper version of the Tamyia Extra Thin Cement (same two ingredients, 1% difference in composition, glues/melts the same) - higher price, but much larger containers. Just a tip when people need to buy new glue.
Cheers for the info, I will take a look as I like a bargain 🙂
Turned out really great! great fun watching these get painted so fast.
This is the first of your videos that I’ve seen (sorry). I really enjoyed and the Marine turned out brilliant with little fuss. I’ve just bought the HH Age of Darkness box set and will give this technique a shot, when I’ve decided to go Traitor or Loyalist 😅👍
Its good to have you here Paul, yeah this is such a simple technique to get that grey painted to a decent standard 🙂
Nifty
Cheers bud 🙂
I very much enjoy your channel.
This is a Very Important point in the Hobby! Paint to what You are happy with. Thank you for reminding, us of this.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder 🙂
Nice King piece! By the way, what do you do with the original black bases? Can they also be turned into sprue goo?
Cheers bud, I have a drw full of them, I hate throwing things away in case I find a use for them, I hadnt even considered sprue goo but might try that lol 🙂
Looks great, the only thing i would personally do to finish it off is a matt finish
I forgot to mention in the video I did spray it with matt varnish before doing the transfers 🙂
What size brushes do you use for main colors?
I have no idea lol, its small 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist I'm trying to find one small enough to paint FOWW Preston Garvey's trenchcoat and having poor success.
🔥🎸🔥
Thank you 🙂
Looks awesome, but I recommend a black wash for any silver metallics, that light brown looks like rust which looks weird coz the rest of him looks so crisp and clean.
Yeah you are right, I always do it on orks which looks great but these guys are much cleaner looking lol 🙂