Ford Mondeo mk4 - BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS REPLACEMENT GUIDE
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2024
- This is a short front brakes replacement tutorial. It was very windy that day, so I´ll try to cover it with some bearable you tube music :)
I am not a professional and you should consider having an authorised service doing this for you. Brakes are a safety component, keep that in mind. I take no responsibility, if you mess it up ;) This is simply a procedure, that worked for me.
So, this video shows how I did my brakes. It went rather well and I´m very happy with the result. No squeaks, great braking power, no vibrations what so ever.
I used ATE components, since there is ATE brake system on my car. I went for more expensive, fully coated, high carbon brake discs and ATE pads. I show all the necessary tools in the video.
Enjoy and thank you for your time.
Torque information from Haynes and Etis, in Nm (and from Haynes in lbf ft):
Front caliper carrier bolts - 200 Nm (148 lbf ft);
Front caliper slide pins - 28 Nm (21 lbf ft);
Rear caliper carrier bolts - 110 Nm (81 lbf ft);
Rear caliper slide pins - 35 Nm (26lbf ft).
Thanks for sharing.
Great video very helpful for us mondeo owners thank you
Thanks a lot!
Thanks to this video I've just changed my disc's and pads today, cheers 👍🏻
That's fantastic. Well done.
Excellent stuf - just completed the pad replacement following your guide....thank you :)
You just made my day!
Just about to do this job and found your video VERY easy to follow. Just one thing to point out - that wee car jack is very dodgy to use on its own and should be used along with a car axle stand as many cars have come down on top of owners doing it this way. Also, the wheel that comes off to do the job should be put under the door nearest the wheel, half way, just in case the car comes off the jack.
Thanks man. The ramps are certified up to 2t. But you are right. I also recently purchased a jack that I am now using.
Some unbelievably nasty unneeded comments for your video. I bet most of them have never done any work themselves. Forum heros! Looks just right to me and the exact way I would go about it! Well done mate
Thanks a lot, mate. I really appreciate you writing this.
I had problems jacking up the Mondeo IV. Now I have a 11 cm u- profile and put this on top of the jack, then I place it under the seam. So the seam will not be damaged.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks 😊 is best tutorial what I found 🙂
Thanks a lot!
Very good Guide!! Thank you!! make more for mondeo mk4!!
Thank you, I will.
Pěkné a přehledné. Díky.
Díky.
Great thorough video. Thanks for sharing :-)
Thank you very much.
the surface against the rotor has to be cleaned with a brush - in this case give no grease on the bolts, only to clean
Thanks.
Did you ever had pads slightly moving and clunking with these ATE brakes? It drives me crazy. Especially when braking in reverse. I had ATE when got the car, and it was doing it. Changed again still with ATE, silence for two weeks and started clunking again.
I must say, I never noticed any sort of bad noises from the brakes. Did you use correct pads? Strange...
@@DIYProjectX pads are the right ones. I can see they have like 1mm space in the upper and lower contact points. But I guess that's normal? Or should they actually fit perfect, with 0 gap? Maybe I got some badly made ones...
Similar to Volvo s60 brake calipers
Interesting.
Important to show how to take off the wheel. Got it.
The video would be too short :)
Are the crocks optional or required for correct fitting?
They are entirely optional, but only for high level mechanics. ;)
@@DIYProjectX in that case I best get B&M before I start me discs and pads
Can i put old , still good break pads with new rotors ?
Not recommended. It will work, but old pads will have groovs from the old rotor and will apply uneven pressure on the new rotor. So your new rotor will wear out faster.
@@DIYProjectX ty vm
Viel danke
Welcome
Thanks mate, can you use WD-40 spray instead to clean the disc
Don't think so. That's a lubricant, you don't want that.
@@DIYProjectX Thanks, I thought it would work as cleaner and anti rust. You recommend any other products that work in the household or could you just leave it
@@MeMe-dw1sm Well, it is important to clean the rotors from any oil or grease residues. So, clean alcohol does the trick. But the brake cleaner is the best option and it's cheap.
If you can put a spring with the screwdriver only I guess I can remove it same way without buying a g-clamp just for this job?
Yes, it is doable. Just a bit of fiddling...
You used torque wrench to tight bolts in calipers and didn't use it to tight wheel nuts... Ouch.
I know. My torque wrench doesn't go that high... :(
Heard of cars having a spare wheel, brace and jack but since when did they supply them with a torque wrench?
You wouldn't catch me doing this job with that pathetic jack as the only support. Trolly jack and axle stand minimum
I get your point. Safety first and I totally agree. But... You'd be surprised, but not all people have the kind of equipment you mention lying around their house. Moreover, there wasn't a single instance when I was under the car while doing this job. And that pathetic jack is actually supplied with the car and is rated upto 2,5 tons. Thanks for your comment and sorry for my late response.
You didn't clean the hub, You just bushed the rust. You should scrape it to bare metal
Not necessary. If he would use ceramic grease...
Ford says not to put any grease on the contact surface. BMW also says that. Dunno...
Made in really Ford style...
Wtf?
Copper grease on a braking pads touch surface? Since when?
Why didn't you used ceramic grease on a connection surface with wheel bearing?
Very week made job...
And for ending. Please inlight me, What's difference between ceramic and steel breaking rotors?
(besides less dust producing of course).
Cooper grease is absolutely standard stuff on contact arms of the pad, so what do you mean? What ceramic rotors? I used standard ATE rotors and pads. Those brakes work flawlesly. I'm not a professional, maybe you could share your video of how it's done properly to enlight us all.
@@DIYProjectX if you don't know basic defence betwen copper grease and ceramic grease like plastilube from ATE (for instance) than at first YOU SHOULD GET THIS KNOWLEDGE, at least before putting on video on UA-cam.
Typical ford user...
@@weedmankedzierzyn I've got a Mercedes now, so Ford has nothing to do with it.
Ceramic greese on wheel bearing is just a prevention from rotors sticking to it, not necessity.
Why would you even waste your time watching and commenting videos you don't like? Quit bullying people who do stuff their way instead of yours.
@@DIYProjectX because I can morran. Make copper grase on you're mercedes or Lamborghini. I don't really care. People with knowledge know what I'm talking about and homemade on ford mechanics... Can use a copper even on a dashboard for me.
Save it chump, copper grease is what was used way before there was ceramic grease and a lot garages still to this day use copper grease on the pads where come in contact with the holder. It does more than a great job. Copper grease on the hub is also just a prevention of the discs sticking to it after a period of time. You can do perfectly fine without it. Just have to use a little bit more force to get them off in the future. You sound like a schoolbook mechanic. “I lEaRnEd iT tHiS wAy sO yOuR wAy iS wRoNg”.