you are doing nothing wrong, the level of your engineering skills is over the top, using a grinding disk for a spacer shows the genius you already are. If you persist long enough you will find a solution to this conundrum. Great work by the way man.
Nagyon örülök,hogy végre valahára ,elkészítetted a liberty másolatát .Mit látunk,hogy kb tekercsenként 7-8 volt körüli feszültség ébred.Ezzel bizonyítást nyert ,hogy ez a generátor még egy szimpla generátornál sem tud többet és ingyen energiára nem képes.Gratulálok,mert ezzel lehet tanítani a tudatlanokat,hogy motor generátor összekapcsolásával sem lehet többlet energiához jutni!Ilyen videókra van szükség,mert ez a tudás pártján áll!
Thank you for the simulation quality. I will point out the shortcomings of this simulation based on what I know about Freedom Engine 2.0. 1. The alloy must be made from the same materials used to manufacture the rotor of the Liberty Engine. 2. The alloy must be of the same diameter as mentioned. 3. An array of magnets must be used to strengthen the magnetic field as much as possible, making sure it is the same width as the rotor. 4. The engine must rotate at a speed of 1400 rpm and this is a prerequisite for achieving proper synchronization. In addition to all this, I believe that there are many secrets of Freedom Engine 2.0 that have not been revealed. Perhaps you have seen the latest model that operates without a rotating part. Although its idea seems possible from a physical standpoint, it raises many questions. Thank You.
Hiába lenne több mágnes az alumíniumban ,attól nem lesz számottevően nagyobb feszültségHa észak dél mágnesekkel hoz létre erőteret,akkor is tekercsenként legfeljebb 18-20 volt körüli feszültség lenne.4 x18 voltból akarnánk meghajtani egy 110 vagy akár 220 voltos motort ,akkor is rövid úton rá kellene ébrednünk,hogy KB 75-80 volt jön ki a generátorból ami kevés egy 110 voltos motor energia igényének még terheletlenül is!
When you wire them in series and use a diod to get negative and positive. Voltage will multiple and then use a cap according to the voltage obtained ( magnet should be the same width of coils center. My generates 74.5 dc volt. Excellent to charge my 48v lithium batteries but I also used an mppt solar charger controller.
Greetings sir, you are not wrong when you say that the project is a scam. Well, I made the same thing a little more rustic, and the voltage was the same as the Sullo, then I changed the position of the coils, I put them closest to the rotor and My voltage went up to 55.8, I will continue exploring,===== Saludos señor, usted no se equivoca al decir que el proyecto es una estafa, Pues Yo ise lo mismo un poco mas rustico, y el voltaje me dio igual al Sullo, después cambie de posición las bobinas , las puse lo mas próximo al rotor y me subió el voltaje a 55. 8 , seguiré explorando ,
@@petercernjavski9419 this is a scam, cause they refuse to sell a working model.. they are doing it for the views, I can guarantee you if youtube demonetized them, they would be gone.. this has nothing to do with tesla, its just what they are using dont work.
Bonjour Félicitations pour la réplique de votre Liberty engine, je le trouve bien conçu. Monsieur, toutes les informations que je vous livre ici sont confirmés par le créateur du liberty engine Je suis membre de sa chaîne hidden technologie et j'ai donc accès à ses vidéos privées. J'ai également pu communiquer avec lui dans les commentaires. Je suis une des rares personnes à qui il a répondu que j'étais sur la bonne voie. Le créateur est très précis dans ce qu'il dit. Le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus d'autres matériaux dans une moindre mesure. Il ne donne pas l'alliage exact du rotor mais il donne énormément d'indices intéressants. L'alliage est protégé par brevet, à nous de le trouver Vous indiquez que votre rotor est en aluminium. Ça ne peut pas fonctionner, vous allez comprendre pourquoi : La fonction principale de l'alliage du rotor et de renvoyer vers les bobines les courants magnétiques qui généreraient le freinage. La puissance est augmentée puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus forts Le rotor est diamagnétique Le diamagnétisme est un comportement des matériaux, lorsqu'ils sont soumis à un champ magnétique, a créé une aimantation opposée au champ extérieur, et donc à engendrer un champ magnétique opposé au champ extérieur. L'argent est diamagnétique, c'est ce qui m'a mis sur la voie Donc le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus deux ou trois des matériaux suivants Les matériaux diamagnétiques : Bismuth. -16,6×10-⁵ Carbone (diamant). -2,1×10-⁵ Carbone (graphite). -1,6×10-⁵ Cuivre -1,0×10-⁵ Plomb. -1,8×10-⁵ Mercure. -2,9×10-⁵ Argent. -2,6×10-⁵ Les aimants du rotor sont réglés sur une configuration du réseau de albach. Un réseau de albach est une disposition particulière d aiment permanent qui accroît le champ magnétique d'un côté tout en éliminant presque totalement le champ magnétique de l'autre côté. Il est très important d'utiliser un oscilloscope. Il semblerait que si un alternateur alimente le moteur à courant alternatif alors ; l'alternateur et le moteur doit être synchronisé par onde sinuosïdal afin qu'il se complète et ne se "battent" pas l'un contre l'autre. Le créateur dit bien qu'il faut respecter le diamètre du rotor qui est de 133 mm. Il fait 7 kg 600. Les aimants font 34 mm de longueur , 12 mm de largeur pour 3,5 mm d'épaisseur. Il y en a 6 par rainure, donc 24 au total Je pense commencer à en construire un d'ici 6 mois à 9 mois Je vais utiliser 70 % entre l'argent et l'aluminium, en privilégiant l'argent. Pour les autres matériaux bismuth en premier, c'est le matériau le plus diamagnétique. Je pense également au mercure, dur à trouver. Et peut-être du carbone (diamant). J'espère que tous ces éléments peuvent vous aider. Je peux vous envoyer sur votre boîte mail toutes les captures d'écran que j'ai pu faire sur les commentaires ainsi que les réponses du créateur. Bravo et bon courage, on réussi en faisant des erreurs
@@norbertosilva2433le rotor fait 7,6 kg avec les aimants. Le rotor est fabriqué maison, coulé dans un four à induction avec contrôle de la température de chauffe et de refroidissement. Les aimants néodyme font 34 mm de long, 12 mm de largeur et 3,5 mm d épaisseur ( on les trouvent pas dans le commerce, faut les faire fabriquer) il y en a 6 par rainure donc 24 au total.
Bonjour Non, un rotor en bois ne marchera pas. Il faut comprendre que le rotor repousse le chant magnétique vers les bobines, cela permet d augmenter la puissance puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus fort sur les bobines. Les courants magnétiques ne traversent pas le rotor, donc il n' y a plus de freinage et le moteur qui entraîne le rotor consomme très peu d énergie. Un rotor en bois ne renverra pas les courants magnétiques vers les bobines. Salutations à vous
What are you doing???... Those coils are not for producing electricity, but rather they are used for producing magnetic field to keep the fly wheel running. That fly wheel is connected to generator. Once the generator is started, it'll give electricity to these microwave coils as well as to other devices. That's the whole process of the liberty engines.
No it's not...notice the motor is behind the fly wheel and there are output points for each coil around seemingly iron and a magnet for each coil...the flywheel isn't aligned positive to negative on the flywheel. It's opposite. To output electricity. I can make a generator so I know
It's gonna measure a voltage no matter what...but it's not alternating... it's a constant flow measurable by wire wrap volume and field strength frictioning
After reading some of the comments, there is 2 i really like. Move the coils closer to the rotor and use a oscilloscope to measure the output. Looking at those coils in my opinion they should easily put out 100+ volts
I think your magnets are too small in relation to your coils. The magnets should be almost as wide as the coils for best output. Awesome machining skills tho. This really looks good. I think the liberty is a fake but I believe the motor/energizer idea from Bedini is a good way to go and you have a good start with your machine.
The wire is too thick. The more turns in the coil, the higher the voltage. ie: the longer the wire passing through the magnetic field, the higher the voltage.
I'm so glad I found this. I built my own as well, my rotor was made from poured epoxy into a 3d printed mold that held the magnets in place. Once fully assembled, I got the exact same results as you - 7-8 volts per transformer. I thought it was because of my design choices, but it looks like you did it differently and got the same results as me. I'm thinking scam.
In one of the comments, one person gave me some excellent info on the rotor. As I understand it, the magic is all in the rotor. The rotor need to be made of a diamagnetic material, for example a mix of silver and bismuth. Aluminium is paramagnetic and thus will not work. I'll have to do some experimentation and research on the % of the mix to make a new rotor. I'll also upgrade my magnets to 70x20x10 N52 on the next one I'll make.
Bro,... for real? now is the time you realise that😑😑😑, it's a scam!!! Why does everyone fall for that?!? It's the law of physics, you clearly haven't read that! No material can give you more than the input you gave to the material. You can view an oscillating object for example. When that object is released, why do you think the object stops moving left to right or back and forth instead of moving forever? Loss of energy man!!! Never fall for this kinds of free energy bullshits.
@@Watchman-Eze33 THat is all BS. You can get the exact ratio of silver and aluminum and it would cost about $5000 for the rotor alone. Silver is higher conductivity so higher eddy currents. This is a scam
You don’t get the voltage from the transformers. If you look at the original design it’s from the terminal box on top of the motor. The motor is acting as a generator.
@@Watchman-Eze33 I don't know how they determined the mix or ratio. I thought they said it was AlAg, Aluminum Silver, but if it needs diamagnetic, Bismuth, Copper, Gold, and Pyrolitic Graphite based on what I saw online. I really don't want this to be another wild goose chase for anyone. If it's real, why don't they just tell us? The longer they keep it a secret, the more likely they will never get it out. Just full disclosure, let us make our own or buy one that works.
The motionless version is better though using resonating Mot cores each end of a set of stator coils. The stator coils produce multicoil current some of which supplies the MOT cores and useful excess power!!!!!!
I see something. The copper windings are too far from the magnet 🧲. The lines of magnetic force are weak that far away. Not enough strength to make much voltage. If you look at any regular generator, the iron core inside the winding is not much past the copper, maybe a quarter inch, where you have two inches. I think this is why you're getting such low voltage. If you can get the copper a lot closer to the magnet the voltage should come up.
Hi Watchman2021....kudu's for trying....the magnets might be N52's but is to little flux to energize your coils to produce the expected volts. Also, the coil's wire you used it to thick for high voltage. (That Liberty machine is a scam as is but have huge potential as I will explain)....that coils you used is for high current usage and thus your low voltage output. I suggest you use about 0,5 mm copper wire in conjunction with that size coil wire in parallel with each other....in other words....wind another coil with 0,5 mm wire to take up all the space between the excising coil and the rotor, but wire it in parallel. That will give you much higher voltage and the microwave coil will give you the current. Your magnets are far to small...they need to be as wide as the transformer center you used. Also, pls use a piece of metal at the back of the magnet as it cause the magnets to have better flux density on the other surface. Think about speaker magnets that has a back plate....you remove that back plate and the ceramic ring magnet all of a sudden has far less attractive or repulsive power. It goes without saying that you must have all the coils in series as to add the voltage and currents available. In addition to that I have build mine with 8 microwave oven transformers. All at 45 degrees with 8 magnets. The voltage output is not good with just 4 transformers.....has a sine wave then flat for 45 degrees....but with 8 TR's the sine wave is much better....not perfect but huge improvement...Magnet size is 50x25x15 neodymium which give far more flux density then the thin little one.....But its important to use 2 coils per transformer.....one for voltage and on for current. Mine works well....good luck bro!!
If I may ask, how much voltage does yours produce in the setting/configuration you have mentioned above bro? Been trying to figure this out without luck
Good afternoon friend, your coil base seems to be solid, it has to be the same as the transformer or laminated. If your rotor is made of 304 stainless steel it will help with the power. You used 12 n52 magnets. 3 per cavity. This way it has a better chance of working. Good luck, I'm in the crowd.
I could be wrong but those coils dont supply the power. They act as electro magnets to leep the device spinning. The power is generated by the motor the flywheel is attached to.
That is the point. The alternator gives excitation current to the coils which spins to keep the alternator going, at the same time, alternator gives out the energy to be utilised.
Im not an expert but I THINK the secret of the Liberty Engine 2 is the rotor. To design a highly effective rotor for a Liberty Engine 2 based on a mix of aluminum and silver, as suggested, the materials should optimize the following characteristics: electrical conductivity, magnetic permeability, durability, and thermal management. Again, DON'T hold me for it. Here is a breakdown: Key Requirements for Rotor Material: Electrical Conductivity: High conductivity is essential for minimizing resistive losses and improving efficiency. Magnetic Properties: Magnetic permeability is crucial for efficiently channeling magnetic fields in electromagnetic generators or motors. Thermal Management: The rotor must dissipate heat effectively to maintain performance under continuous operation. Structural Strength: The material must withstand mechanical stresses during high-speed rotation. Recommended Material Composition for Rotor: Aluminum (70-80%): Role: Forms the bulk of the rotor due to its lightweight, good conductivity, and corrosion resistance. Advantages: Reduces overall rotor weight, increasing efficiency and reducing energy consumption. Silver (10-15%): Role: Enhances conductivity in critical areas, such as conductive pathways or surface layers. Advantages: Silver’s superior conductivity improves performance in applications where current density is high. Placement: Could be used as a coating, alloying element, or in conductive paths. Iron (5-10%): Role: Provides magnetic permeability for efficient magnetic flux. Advantages: Enhances electromagnetic interactions; particularly useful if the rotor interacts with magnetic fields. Silicon or Silicon Steel (1-5%): Role: Reduces eddy current losses in areas where magnetic fields fluctuate. Advantages: Ensures efficient energy conversion by reducing waste heat and improving magnetic efficiency. Copper (5-10%) (Optional): Role: Alternative or complement to silver in conductive regions. Advantages: More economical than silver with nearly equivalent conductivity. Proposed Structure and Application: Core: A ferromagnetic material such as soft iron or silicon steel for magnetic permeability. Conductive Pathways: A mix of silver and aluminum, with silver used for key contact points or high-current regions to optimize conductivity. Surface: An aluminum-silver alloy for durability and conductivity, with a silver content of 10-15% in the alloy. Manufacturing Notes: Alloying: Aluminum-silver alloys are challenging to produce but offer excellent conductivity and thermal performance. Mixing aluminum with small amounts of silicon can improve strength while maintaining lightweight properties. Coating: A thin layer of pure silver on key surfaces can significantly enhance electrical performance without drastically increasing costs. Example Proportions for the Rotor: Material / Proportion (%) Aluminum / 70-80 Silver / 10-15 Iron / 5-10 Silicon/Silicon Steel / 1-5 This composition strikes a balance between performance, cost, and manufacturability. For optimal results, computational simulations and prototype testing should validate the design against operational requirements.
I did the same creatiin as you and got out same voltage aroung 7v each so if i to conect each coil together i would have got output around 20v which is not enough to give the power back to the motor not even to have left to power other equipment, greate work thank you for confirming my experiment. You did nothing wrong i did the exact same thing, but as tou know the magician never reveal the secret 😅
@@Watchman-Eze33 did you see the comment where someone lists the original motor as being 2800rpm..?? if true its a poor show on the liberty team... but more speed may be key
😩dude make your wheel out of silver and aluminum even if you make it with epoxy put pure silver powder and aluminum powder in epoxy if your not gonna smelt it your welcome i did it works
Generátor számítás: N=összes menet, B= indukció=T=Tesla,L=vezető hosszúsága, v=sebesség. Tehát N*B*L*v, Itt a vezető hosszúsága az amit a mágnes 90° metsz, a számításnál egy palástfelülettel kell számolni,(D*pi*L) , tehát a mágneseknek ezt a felületet kell befogniuk. A te készülékednél a felület vagyis a palást csak kb. 0.01*pi*L, hiába. nagyobb a forgórész átmérője, keresztmetszete a màgnesek által határolt palástfelület csak 0.01*pi*L Feltételezve a méretezést a számítás a következő: N=400, az indukció 0.94T, a mágnes hosszúsága kb. 50mm, a palástfelülete 0.01*pi*L, a v=sebesség, a sebességet a fordulatszámból számítható ki:pl. (1500/60)*2=50Hz. A 2 a póluspárok száma. A kiszámított feszültség , kb. 29.845 /4=7.46V. Hogy nagyobb feszültséget kapjál a mágneseknek a palásthoz viszonyított méretét kell növelni. A forgórész kerületét négy részre kell osztani, és így kapod meg kb. mágnesek által behatárolt felületet. Célszerű az alumínium helyett lemezből készíteni a forgórészt, lehetőleg dinamó, vagy transzformátor lemezből, ragasztóval összeragasztva. Vagy olyan .méretű màgneseket választani ami az adott palástfelületnek megfelel. RL energetika.
Na ez egy szakszerű válasz!Így javítható a generátor hatásfoka ,de ez sem lesz elegendő a plusz energia előállításához! Javaslom a fenti észrevétel elkészítését,hogy egy vasmagon két féle tekercs legyen .Egy nagy átmérőjű és egy kis átméröjű tekercseléssel!
Hey watchman, Hey Mehran, It’s the change of magnetic field N/S due to the rotor turning, that’s gonna produce the needed electricity 1- for the needed minimum motor W to keep the system running and 2- the surplus of W you can use for other consumers. YOU did already á good mechanical job, but I think the gaps in between rotor and stator are not so good and I’m not sure you used the original “fe” core for the coils. The magnets, better check the magnetic power before mounting with iron dust on a glass or paper and than do the checking again when mounted into the rotor. Motor or transformer : the gaps and positioning (even wiring position) is very important the get the maximum magnetic fluctuations and to get the maximum output! Also check again N/S.
try to put magnet to the center of winding instead of alloy. make it around 5mm near each other. its magnet to magnet. modified by putting a running capacitor. if the temperature of the rotor exceed to 80 centigrade adjust it to 10mm. it may damage your magnet. or put a cooling fan.
They go off about the “special secret silver and aluminum mixture” for the drum wheel with the magnets claiming that was a big part of it functioning….. could we just stack another coil next to these ones and splice? I’m a plumber so be kind haha. Great work
O circuito tem que ser replicado, as medidas parecem estar diferentes do exemplo base, e talvez possa haver segredo na quantidade de imãs no rotor magnético. Podem ter imãs fundidos sob o alumínio. Pois enfatizaram que o segredo está no rotor. Já vi outras réplicas dando bons resultados de geração, embora não colocados para funcionar autônomos.
Nu are importanță prea mare locul bobinei pe miez, ci mai degrabă e greșit ales magnetul, care trebuie neapărat să fie cât lățimea miezului de tole pe care e băgat bobina. Un magnet îngust, nu poate crea o amplitudine mare , dacă miezul e mult mai lat , așa cum se vede în imagini. Eu nu cred în „vrăjeala” cu miezul din amestec de argint, deși un prieten mi-a descris niște motoare cu așa miezuri, folosite în domeniul extracției de petrol. Dacă poți, refă rotorul , montând pe el magneți lați cât miezul bobinelor, și groși, pentru a fi puternici. La o turație de 1500 de ture, fiecare bobină ar trebui să producă o tensiune aproape de 220-230V (pentru că aici vor fi 50Hz) , și curentul pe care-l poate da sârma , miezul și magnetul. Așa se pot lega bobinele în paralel pentru a spori intensitatea curentului, sau serie și paralel, pentru a le spori pe ambele dacă e nevoie.
I mean, I just saw this video and have no idea what this thing is, some people were talking about free energy, not sure I want to comment on that... but for regular generators you want to make sure that the magnetic field of your stator array, that is driving your central rotor, is properly synchronized with the rotor. (If there is no modulation of the field you will have improper function) With something like this you might want to have 3phase ac and switch the 'plus' configuration of stator electromagnets to a hexagonal one to utilize max power of the 120 degree phase offset.
The feedback was from the motor to the coils, in 3 phases. Also thier claim was the aluminum and silver alloy reduced eddy currents, your rotor is pure aluminum. So, tweaking that, and feeding it through a microwave transformer was their design. So unplug it from the wall, feedback the input to the output and 3 phrase the coils, with silver aluminum composite. To be 1 to 1 in the build.
did you use a mixture of metals in the rotor alloy? Adding Metals to Optimize Properties While silver and aluminum provide excellent conductivity and lightweight characteristics, they are non-magnetic. To optimize for magnetic rotation, adding small amounts of specific metals can improve the alloy's overall performance: Metals to Add: Copper (Cu): Enhances electrical conductivity. Improves thermal dissipation. Recommended Proportion: 5-10%. Nickel (Ni): Adds corrosion resistance. Increases hardness and durability for high-speed rotation. Recommended Proportion: 1-3%. Iron (Fe): Introduces mild magnetic properties to interact more effectively with external magnetic fields. Reduces the need for entirely external magnetic components. Recommended Proportion: 1-2% (to avoid excessive weight and brittleness). Manganese (Mn): Improves wear resistance and prevents alloy cracking under high stress. Stabilizes the microstructure. Recommended Proportion: 0.5-1%. Titanium (Ti): Enhances strength-to-weight ratio, ideal for high-speed rotation. Recommended Proportion: 1-2%. Resulting Alloy Composition (Approximate): Silver: 50-60%. Aluminum: 30-40%. Copper: 5-10%. Nickel: 1-3%. Iron: 1-2%. Manganese: 0.5-1%. Titanium: 1-2%.
1. You have mounted your windings and transformer core in a + sign right? The top and bottom windings and core take a North pole status. The horizontal ones - south pole. The mounting of the magnets dictates this. This causes current to flow first in one direction originating from the North Pole windings as the rotor with the magnets rotates then the current alternates or changes directions as the north pole magnets fly past the horizontal coils.. Your mistakes by observation - you are testing your coils individually when they should be paired - top with bottom, side to side. All the four coils with eight terminals should be wired to give you two terminals - live and neutral for alternating current (AC). The strength of your magnets matters. The RPM matters Note: The generator is your microwave coils at the front with the transformer core. What you have at the back is your motor receiving power from the generator. Your setup is incomplete.
It is the engine that produces the electricity, not the transformers, they keep the rotor in motion, that is the idea, the electricity is not needed for power supply. Check the voltage at the engine plug
The coil core is just a block of steel? Massive eddy currents basically absorbing energy. Move the coil closer to the rotating magnetic field, they are miles away. This alternator looks neat, but it's a wonderful example of what not to do.
What is the speed of the motor? and the size of the magnet? The magnetic permeability of the metal core you use? That core doesn't seem to be the original microwave transformer core. It looks like solid steel. Try to move the coil closer to the magnet. I think you get low voltage because of a couple of things: the coil is too far in; motor speed sounds slow; magnetic strength?; and perhaps number of turns is low; may be the cores you used too. you did a great job by the way. Looks very nice.
The motor is 1400rpm as per the original video. I used 4 x 900w microwave transformers, I only sanded the cores to look clean, but they are genuine. Moving the coils closer makes no difference, I tried it also.
@@Watchman-Eze33 Low voltage means a weak magnetic field to the wire (this can be weak magnets or poor permeability). You said you use the original core so what is left is not enough magnetic force. The second reason is the number of turns too small. Do this experiment: Get another microwave transformer and take out the part like you did; put the same coil and core and run 120 volts or 220 volts, whatever voltage you use. Get a gause meter and check the magnetic strength at the core. Once you know the number, check if you get the same with the rotor in your generator. That will give you an idea if you have enough magnetic strength. You will need more than what you measured out of the experiment.
I built mine just recently. I connected the coils in series and was getting a total of 25v ac. I used the old washing machine motor ( universal motor) and was powering it from a 12v dc car battery. I know that the difference in the results I am getting is lies in the electrical/ electronics connection of the output coils. I believe that with more probe, it will be unraveled. The liberty engine producers are yet to inform people of the way the output coils are connected essentially. How did they treat back emf? The drive motor has to speed faster. Let us have a little patience. It must be cracked. Let us all continue with the experimentation. There is hope.
@@Watchman-Eze33dostum liberty engine 2 de kullanilan motor 1400 rpm degil uzerini kalemle cizmisler 2760 rpm yani 3000rpm birseyleri yanlis veriyorlar
Maybe the magnets are too weak. Additionally the weight of the rotor might be an issue. The other rotor has 7.6 kg. I would finish the wiring First, because their might be backfeeding and resonating effects between the motor and the microwave coils. Good work, btw. I like your design.
Please move your coils to the edge of the cores as close as possible to the rotor, you will get more voltage but not nearly close to 110V which is what you should get per coil to then connect it is series to get the 230V the liberty guys claims. I think one should place 8 magnets which is in four pairs with the pairs the same distance apart as the width of the coils.
Can yall learn some basic math and ohm law as well as thermodynamics. This is embarrassing. It doesn't work, it can't work... unless you've cracked room temperature super conductors. Anyways, I have a bridge to sell.
perhaps your magnets need to be closer to the coil inside an ac motor the magnets are considerably close I personally would start there I don't believe the protrusion of Iron helps but it helps in keeping the coil in place .
Have you check the polarity of each coil? In order to connect them there should be a opposing polarity on each coil. Connect them properly to produce a continuous cycle of magnetism (north and south pole) on the core which the coil is placed. Use a compass to determine the polarity of each coil. Then you can proceed with your experiment. Good luck
Це ж саме хотів написати, про те що в даній конструкції від котушок не ідуть провода, але я не написав би так грамотно як це зробили ви тому що я 0 в електротехніці, ну гаразд, трішечки більше нуля. А автор відео на правильному шляху, нехай він досягне мети 🙏
I think the magnets on the rotor are spaced too far apart. And they are alternating north, south, north ? I would start by looking at the 7.4v on a scope! Seems the wave will be very strange
If you series each coil you'd get around 28v which you can run many motors on. Corded tools ac motors can be replaced with battery powered tool dc motors just add a diode. There are plenty of ways to fake it. I know very little but that's what goes through my head. If the original isn't really doing what they say it does.
the trick is in the alloy of the rotor, it must be argaliumalpha what they stated, its dialectric metal that provides sinewave oscillation which makes is generate excessive amounts of power
Is it solid aluminum? They had 6 smaller magnets in each row 3 on top of each other. Maybe need to stack a couple more magnets in each row. Now they did say the rotor was an aloy of silver, aluminum and other metals. Said if it wasn't that it wouldn't work right. But I don't know why it wouldn't. I think you need more rare earth magnets.
The rotor made with 304 stainless steel is diamagnetic, meaning it doesn't attract magnets. I think that's the key to this problem, which they don't reveal.
The rotor had to be made at least of material which is not magnetic (aluminum). If steel is used the magnetic field strength is dissipated in the rotor itself. Secondly if you want to mimic the liberty engine a minimum of 3xN35 placed on top of each other had to be used if not N52’s. Lastly you got to make sure that for this kind of setup a 2 pole motor having a series run capacitor motor of around 2800rpm is used. Lastly good luck i hope you succeed.
I used aluminium for the rotor. I used a 1400rpm motor as per the original video. My magnets are 60x10x5 and have 2 ontop of each other. I chose n52 as the original video suggested.
@@Watchman-Eze33 That’s great however the only option you’re left trying is to use a 2800rpm 2-pole with series capcitor motor. May I withdraw ypur attention that the one used in the libert engine video is an ‘SEMKH 71-2C’
The power output from the coils will not be enough to run the motor when you take off the supply, try to do it other side, replace the motor with a generator of similar size and let the power output to energize the coils and if work, you can hook some loads to the generator
Please follow these recomendations: Magnets must not be hudden into rotor. Connect in parallel a coil and his opposite What material was used to build the rotor? Must be alluminum 7075 Please try to do these changes and try again, good lock!!!
After looking at this video again I figured out what you did wrong. You do not have the copper coils hooked up to the engine. You need to wire them together then wire them to the engine as the power supply for the engine. The 7.6 that each coil is producing is what turns the engine on instead of plugging it in and then it starts to turn the turbine which is what is giving it power becoming a closed loop system. Then you wire a plug in 🔌 power strip to the engine and that is where you get your power from. The 230 you're looking for. I hope you still have this and haven't gotten ride of it yet because it will work if you do that.
I built one myself and now I understand more the problems you are running into also. You're right it doesn't produce enough power and the gravity friction is the problem. Working on a solution to work with gravity instead of fighting it.
Kár ez egy rossz ötlet A Motorra rákapcsolod a tekercsek adta feszültséget akkor a motor ezt a feszültséget szinte le fogja nullázni.Nem tudom miért hisszük azt,hogy a motor tekercsét bekötve az áramkörbe nagyobb lesz a feszültség??
Ok add more magnet and make sure you put them to the rotating pulley N S pole your result will be greater I did mine one at first I was getting 20v AC and I continued until it gives me 220v
The original device is not a scam, per say, but it most likely works with the law of intent ( the observer creating the outcome ) rather than pure 3D laws of physics.
You're smart enough to know that 4D physics could solve this, unfortunately too dumb to know the energy needed to break the barrier, it becomes a negative sum. Trust me, if myself and the boys at Perimeter couldn't figure it out, buddy in his shed has half a chance. Lots of different energy scavaging effects can give you free energy today. Like run a IC engine on the principal of magnetically constrained plasma field collapse in a vaccum. That can be done in a home shop. Or super simple, take 2 40gal air tanks, link them and fill one half with water and pull a vaccum, burry the other in the dirt and leave one in the sun. (Best run in group of 4 with a flip/flop piping.) Have a air turbine in the middle. The vaccum lowers the boil point and tada its a steam turbine at room temp using the temp difference between the ground and air. Works reverse in cold climates. guys we can have free energy any time we want. My whole property runs on random contraptions like I just outlined. Anyways if liberty was real the inventor would not be on this earth if he tells you how it works or not, if you get my drift.
hello, i think your problem is used material of rotor. It must be composition alloy from aluminum and silver. 822g piece of rotor must have: 343g Al + 542g of Ag. Alloy must make by yourself.
what if you try to connect 2 coil to other coil so it can lift up the voltage ?? cause i think the microwave transformer is to jack up the voltage right ? and i think your magnet is not enough. great job
I connected all 4 coils in series & got voltage of 30V, then connected the motor to the output and used a pullstring to spin it up, had no luck getting it to run.
I would add 4 more coils to fill in the space a bit and get more of the magnetic field being generated, then put them in a series and maybe throw in some caps for dis charging
The magnets are for rotating the motor the motor then should put out the electricity for consumption. Your doing it backwards the 7 volts is for mopower for the free spinning. (Again) magnets spin motor for free. Motor makes electricity to use.
Ezt remélem nem mondod komolyan.Te már feltaláltad azt amotort ami nem fogyasztja ,hanem termeli az áramot??Gratulálok ez egy nagy marhaság!Tanultál fizikát?A motor akkor adhat le feszültséget amikor kikapcsolják és még lendületből forog.a motor energia elnyelő nem ad elektromos energiát!
have you tried to get the generator to spin with the magnet motor? that is the purpose of the PMM. you don't need to make 220 volts to power the generator. you need the rpms correctly with the ability to give it more power under load. If you REALLY want more electricity from the magnet motor, then more windings, more magnets? if that rotor is metal it's eating the magentism... you could try to use teflon or something for the rotor. But the motor itself just needs to spin the generator at the set RPMs. Fantastic work btw.
The coils not for generating power. It’s electro magnetic. In the back side you have installed normal motor. You should install turbine instead of motor
Another thing I ser wrong is the armature is shorted out, remember the excitation principle, magnets excite coils trough core, core makes the enviroment to excite the coils. Try to check signal with scope, must be sine wave
well i tell you 2 things increase your coild to 8 and put larger and more magnets so try 1 inch wide magnets and covering the total lenngth of the rotor , the voltage will go up , you wire each 2 coils in series . good luck
i don't understand, what did you expect to get. you have little coils being excited with some magnets and you are generating electricity. you can increase the efficiency by minimizing the gap between the magnets and the coil cores. you can use heavier gauge wire in your coils for more current. you can increase the number of your coil loops for more voltage. you have made a decent experiment for using power to make less power which is exactly what should have been expected as you have all that loss among other things due to heat and noise (vibration).
As I've seen in the original Liberty,he had 2 magnets on top of eachother i belive the pulley,or the rotor how you call it,it was far bigger then yours , he also claimed to be made from silver and other materials,he didn't say for sure what material used for it,but he said more silver in it. Also you should wire up that beast and see if it works. I cant wait to see someone who managed to copy that liberty engine. That would save many people!
Omul, a reprodus cât se poate de corect, mai puțin partea cu magneții, dar nu asta e cauza. E distanță prea mare, de la 7V la 230. Magnetul ar produce tensiunea de chiar 230V, dacă ar fi cât miezul de lat și turația potrivită , respectiv 1500 de ture, corespunzător celor 4 poli. Concluzia e că nu va funcționa , să pui și aur ! Trebuie ca la antrenarea rotorului, să participe și reactiva, nu să-l frâneze la apropierea magnetului de miezul bobinei. Eu am obținut acest efect de mărire a vitezei de rotație la adăugarea de sarcină, dar tot nu e clar dacă e real benefic.
I think the rotor and the coils are the motor! And the electric motor will be as the generator. Do you understand my point? I mean everything must be vice versa.
Basically ... You're only checking the coils. Total is around 28 the rest of the voltage comes from the motor... The coil creates electric magnetic energy. Coils are not the full energy provider because their separate to help the router spin so it can power up the motor so it can create energy
The club weighs 7.6 kg because 81% is silver and 19% aluminum Aluminum has a conductivity of almost 40. Silver has a conductivity of almost 70. A pure aluminum core cannot generate the magnetic field to achieve these values
Good afternoon, I modified a 150 amp alternator from a Ford Fusion with a rotor made of common iron and it got 48 volts and 30 amps, with a 30x10x05 neodymium magnet. In other words, yours was supposed to be stronger because it used a microwave transformer.
A rezonancia önmagában nem energia növelő!A rezgést fennt kell tartani és ha terhelést adsz rá, akkor a rendszer fenntartásához újabb energiára van szükség!
The number of magnets is not like the original n52, it has 5 pairs one after the other but there I see the magnets have only one, there is no force to generate
Determine first if its AC or DC current. The fact that you can touch the leads on the transformers suggests DC. If that's the case you will never generate enough power to run the motor in loop. You need a rectifier And super capacitors. The capacitor (like a rechargeable battery) will be charged by the 7.33 volt DC transformer in just a few seconds and dump high voltage AC back into the motor to run it. 4 transformers, 4 capacitors and a rectifier. It needs to be regulated by sequence to stay running.
You've not taken note of the workings... The Liberty Engine doesn't run on electricity it makes it through the motor/generator attached. As for some of these people on here.. the silver aluminum mix is to keep the Eddy currents down to zero. One guy on here said it'd make it higher that's backwards! He also stated it'd be a crazy amount of money. It's not a 50/50 roll stock it's a silver infused aluminum stock. The silver also helps magnify the magnets as does the charge from the generator linked to the copper coils. Surely you can look at your contraption and see you are not finished. I'm building one.. I'm not saying I've tested this but I am saying youre not done and you have some things wrong. I wouldn't buy a silver/aluminum mix stock till I finished with what you have. It seems to me with the epoxy working the aluminum will as well. Try contacting the copper coils in line like the video and connect them to your motor, put some kind of rope to be able to pull the motor fast enough to get it started working and like on the video let it get up to speed then test it. I recommend you be very careful as it should be high voltage. Don't forget to use a switch to be able to cut off the power from the coils to the motor. Good luck hope it works.. because I want mine to work!
Since 15 years, I have been dealing with angular energy electricity generation systems (R&D). My positive designs about angular continue. In this regard, my own financial means are insufficient, I had meetings with many businessmen, they accepted the financing of the project, but they gave up when it came to signing a protocol, that is, when it came to formalisation. If there is an entrepreneur who will take firm steps with me on this path, who is idealistic, has financial means and wants to make an official protocol, I would like to meet. 98% of the published videos are wrong and do not work. I know the mistake they all make.
Las bobinas de microondas tienen que estar conectadas a las bobinas del motor, así forma una bobina más grande. El capacitor es clave en el proceso y no creo tanto en eso de la aleación, solo con aluminio debería funcionar igual tal vez un poco menos eficaz.
Hi Watchman, i believe you can make improvements, you can add coils, you can add strong magnets, you can add faster motor, you can reach higher voltage - but you will never get back 300 Watts (or more) power to drive the motor. I think you know it..
There must be something wrongly set up: imagine, a "bicycle dynamo" produces already 6-7V with a sober magnet, but with more wire winding, seems to me. So your measurements seem to me much too low for a beautiful looking device. Bravo for the construction.
Yes, the magnet polarity is N-N & S-S on opposite side of the rotor. Connecting the opposite coils in parallel still gave me around 7V. I then connected all 4 coils in series & got voltage of 30V, then connected the motor to the output and used a pullstring to attempt to spin it up, had no luck getting it to run.
@@Watchman-Eze33 something still isn't right... May likely be from your rotor. Perhaps the alloy or magnet. Your rpm seems fine enough to generate a 220v out. Thou increasing the microwave coil turns will increase the output voltage. Share your progress pls!
The file is the reason The number of coil turns determines the voltage Why didn't you measure the ampere on video so we could know exactly what was wrong?
The liberty engine does not exploit any of the known over unity exploits/methods. I would not bother building it. But your device does look very well constructed.
Good morning, I can't understand how you only got 7 volts, I had a common iron rotor made, I put in a n35 magnet which is weaker than the n52 and I got 50 v and 60 amps, my magnets measure 30x10x5. using a 3600 rpm two-phase moto
You got higher voltage because of the higher speed. The faster the magnets move, the faster the flux is cut by the coils and cores, and the higher the volts obtained.
Well, nice building skills. First magnets and coils must be in close proximity to have higher B. Second magnetic field must "cut" coil at 90 degree as in E=B*l*v*sin (angle). Core is used, usually to increase inductivity of the coil and tend to close magnetic field into itself. I guess that is the reason for low voltage. So to improve design increase rotating speed, and put coils and magnets as closer as you can. Use bigger N52 magnets and stronger. Avoid Aluminium in rotor to avoid Eddy currents. Last one is use oscilloscope to see what is happening and wawe shape and timings. Cheers.
@@jamesdean5418 Yea, imagine similar design not vaste magnetic force. One magnet drive 3 coils, left, right and top. Left and right coils wounded CW and CCW to eliminate cogging. Similar to Adams motor/generator. Cheers.
you are doing nothing wrong, the level of your engineering skills is over the top, using a grinding disk for a spacer shows the genius you already are. If you persist long enough you will find a solution to this conundrum. Great work by the way man.
😁
there is no solution
Nagyon örülök,hogy végre valahára ,elkészítetted a liberty másolatát .Mit látunk,hogy kb tekercsenként 7-8 volt körüli feszültség ébred.Ezzel bizonyítást nyert ,hogy ez a generátor még egy szimpla generátornál sem tud többet és ingyen energiára nem képes.Gratulálok,mert ezzel lehet tanítani a tudatlanokat,hogy motor generátor összekapcsolásával sem lehet többlet energiához jutni!Ilyen videókra van szükség,mert ez a tudás pártján áll!
Thank you for the simulation quality.
I will point out the shortcomings of this simulation based on what I know about Freedom Engine 2.0.
1. The alloy must be made from the same materials used to manufacture the rotor of the Liberty Engine.
2. The alloy must be of the same diameter as mentioned.
3. An array of magnets must be used to strengthen the magnetic field as much as possible, making sure it is the same width as the rotor.
4. The engine must rotate at a speed of 1400 rpm and this is a prerequisite for achieving proper synchronization.
In addition to all this, I believe that there are many secrets of Freedom Engine 2.0 that have not been revealed. Perhaps you have seen the latest model that operates without a rotating part. Although its idea seems possible from a physical standpoint, it raises many questions.
Thank You.
BS, Kalid, don't be sucked in. They don't have a magic formula.
❤
Hiába lenne több mágnes az alumíniumban ,attól nem lesz számottevően nagyobb feszültségHa észak dél mágnesekkel hoz létre erőteret,akkor is tekercsenként legfeljebb 18-20 volt körüli feszültség lenne.4 x18 voltból akarnánk meghajtani egy 110 vagy akár 220 voltos motort ,akkor is rövid úton rá kellene ébrednünk,hogy KB 75-80 volt jön ki a generátorból ami kevés egy 110 voltos motor energia igényének még terheletlenül is!
When you wire them in series and use a diod to get negative and positive. Voltage will multiple and then use a cap according to the voltage obtained ( magnet should be the same width of coils center. My generates 74.5 dc volt. Excellent to charge my 48v lithium batteries but I also used an mppt solar charger controller.
Hi Joe, would by possible to contact you for more informations please ?
What was the composition of your rotor? (This looks to be aluminum only)
Remember the cores need to have time to produce and reverse core flux so use test equipment like an Oscilloscope to see whats happening.
It won't work man, enerygy is always lost man, you can't get more than the input you've given. it's just the law of physics everyone keeps engoring!!!
Greetings sir, you are not wrong when you say that the project is a scam. Well, I made the same thing a little more rustic, and the voltage was the same as the Sullo, then I changed the position of the coils, I put them closest to the rotor and My voltage went up to 55.8, I will continue exploring,===== Saludos señor, usted no se equivoca al decir que el proyecto es una estafa, Pues Yo ise lo mismo un poco mas rustico, y el voltaje me dio igual al Sullo, después cambie de posición las bobinas , las puse lo mas próximo al rotor y me subió el voltaje a 55. 8 , seguiré explorando ,
If the project would be scam then Nikola Tesla would be a big lier.
@@petercernjavski9419 this is a scam, cause they refuse to sell a working model.. they are doing it for the views, I can guarantee you if youtube demonetized them, they would be gone.. this has nothing to do with tesla, its just what they are using dont work.
Bonjour
Félicitations pour la réplique de votre Liberty engine, je le trouve bien conçu.
Monsieur, toutes les informations que je vous livre ici sont confirmés par le créateur du liberty engine
Je suis membre de sa chaîne hidden technologie et j'ai donc accès à ses vidéos privées. J'ai également pu communiquer avec lui dans les commentaires.
Je suis une des rares personnes à qui il a répondu que j'étais sur la bonne voie.
Le créateur est très précis dans ce qu'il dit.
Le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus d'autres matériaux dans une moindre mesure. Il ne donne pas l'alliage exact du rotor mais il donne énormément d'indices intéressants.
L'alliage est protégé par brevet, à nous de le trouver
Vous indiquez que votre rotor est en aluminium. Ça ne peut pas fonctionner, vous allez comprendre pourquoi :
La fonction principale de l'alliage du rotor et de renvoyer vers les bobines les courants magnétiques qui généreraient le freinage. La puissance est augmentée puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus forts
Le rotor est diamagnétique
Le diamagnétisme est un comportement des matériaux, lorsqu'ils sont soumis à un champ magnétique, a créé une aimantation opposée au champ extérieur, et donc à engendrer un champ magnétique opposé au champ extérieur.
L'argent est diamagnétique, c'est ce qui m'a mis sur la voie
Donc le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus deux ou trois des matériaux suivants
Les matériaux diamagnétiques :
Bismuth. -16,6×10-⁵
Carbone (diamant). -2,1×10-⁵
Carbone (graphite). -1,6×10-⁵
Cuivre -1,0×10-⁵
Plomb. -1,8×10-⁵
Mercure. -2,9×10-⁵
Argent. -2,6×10-⁵
Les aimants du rotor sont réglés sur une configuration du réseau de albach.
Un réseau de albach est une disposition particulière d aiment permanent qui accroît le champ magnétique d'un côté tout en éliminant presque totalement le champ magnétique de l'autre côté.
Il est très important d'utiliser un oscilloscope.
Il semblerait que si un alternateur alimente le moteur à courant alternatif alors ; l'alternateur et le moteur doit être synchronisé par onde sinuosïdal afin qu'il se complète et ne se "battent" pas l'un contre l'autre.
Le créateur dit bien qu'il faut respecter le diamètre du rotor qui est de 133 mm. Il fait 7 kg 600. Les aimants font 34 mm de longueur , 12 mm de largeur pour 3,5 mm d'épaisseur. Il y en a 6 par rainure, donc 24 au total
Je pense commencer à en construire un d'ici 6 mois à 9 mois
Je vais utiliser 70 % entre l'argent et l'aluminium, en privilégiant l'argent.
Pour les autres matériaux bismuth en premier, c'est le matériau le plus diamagnétique. Je pense également au mercure, dur à trouver. Et peut-être du carbone (diamant).
J'espère que tous ces éléments peuvent vous aider. Je peux vous envoyer sur votre boîte mail toutes les captures d'écran que j'ai pu faire sur les commentaires ainsi que les réponses du créateur.
Bravo et bon courage, on réussi en faisant des erreurs
El peso del rotor
Es ranurado
O sin ranura
@@norbertosilva2433le rotor fait 7,6 kg avec les aimants.
Le rotor est fabriqué maison, coulé dans un four à induction avec contrôle de la température de chauffe et de refroidissement.
Les aimants néodyme font 34 mm de long, 12 mm de largeur et 3,5 mm d épaisseur ( on les trouvent pas dans le commerce, faut les faire fabriquer) il y en a 6 par rainure donc 24 au total.
السلام عليكم اخي هل من الممكن ان نصنع القرص الدوار من الخشب مثلا ؟ وبهذا قد تخلصنا من تأثير أيدي المغناطيس ارجو الرد تحياتي لك
Bonjour
Non, un rotor en bois ne marchera pas. Il faut comprendre que le rotor repousse le chant magnétique vers les bobines, cela permet d augmenter la puissance puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus fort sur les bobines.
Les courants magnétiques ne traversent pas le rotor, donc il n' y a plus de freinage et le moteur qui entraîne le rotor consomme très peu d énergie.
Un rotor en bois ne renverra pas les courants magnétiques vers les bobines.
Salutations à vous
@@alanfaugeras2536 ولكن هناك شخص على اليوتيوب استعمل الخشب ونجحت الفكرة وسوف ارسل لك سكرين شوت تحياتي لك
What are you doing???... Those coils are not for producing electricity, but rather they are used for producing magnetic field to keep the fly wheel running. That fly wheel is connected to generator. Once the generator is started, it'll give electricity to these microwave coils as well as to other devices. That's the whole process of the liberty engines.
Try clockwise
No it's not...notice the motor is behind the fly wheel and there are output points for each coil around seemingly iron and a magnet for each coil...the flywheel isn't aligned positive to negative on the flywheel. It's opposite. To output electricity. I can make a generator so I know
The thing that spins the flywheel is attached to the impeller and the core.. that's what's turning it. The stator inside it's housing
What is it ac....lol it's converted using magnetic induction...it's dc. AC in the housing.
It's gonna measure a voltage no matter what...but it's not alternating... it's a constant flow measurable by wire wrap volume and field strength frictioning
After reading some of the comments, there is 2 i really like. Move the coils closer to the rotor and use a oscilloscope to measure the output. Looking at those coils in my opinion they should easily put out 100+ volts
Fent írta valaki,hogy ezt megcsinálta és 50 volt jött ki,tehát ez édes kevés a dicsőséghez!
I think your magnets are too small in relation to your coils. The magnets should be almost as wide as the coils for best output. Awesome machining skills tho. This really looks good. I think the liberty is a fake but I believe the motor/energizer idea from Bedini is a good way to go and you have a good start with your machine.
I also suspect the magnets to be an issue. My intend with this built was to prove the "Liberty Engine" consept to be true or false.
@@Watchman-Eze33 If you improve the motor part then I think you can get it to turn. I am interested in seeing how this works for you.
The wire is too thick. The more turns in the coil, the higher the voltage. ie: the longer the wire passing through the magnetic field, the higher the voltage.
@unicornadrian1358 coils are same used in original video microwaves coils.....and anything else
@@MrBesmir7 in that case, the first video was nonsense.
I'm so glad I found this. I built my own as well, my rotor was made from poured epoxy into a 3d printed mold that held the magnets in place. Once fully assembled, I got the exact same results as you - 7-8 volts per transformer. I thought it was because of my design choices, but it looks like you did it differently and got the same results as me. I'm thinking scam.
In one of the comments, one person gave me some excellent info on the rotor. As I understand it, the magic is all in the rotor. The rotor need to be made of a diamagnetic material, for example a mix of silver and bismuth. Aluminium is paramagnetic and thus will not work. I'll have to do some experimentation and research on the % of the mix to make a new rotor. I'll also upgrade my magnets to 70x20x10 N52 on the next one I'll make.
Bro,... for real? now is the time you realise that😑😑😑, it's a scam!!! Why does everyone fall for that?!? It's the law of physics, you clearly haven't read that!
No material can give you more than the input you gave to the material.
You can view an oscillating object for example.
When that object is released, why do you think the object stops moving left to right or back and forth instead of moving forever?
Loss of energy man!!! Never fall for this kinds of free energy bullshits.
@@Watchman-Eze33 THat is all BS. You can get the exact ratio of silver and aluminum and it would cost about $5000 for the rotor alone. Silver is higher conductivity so higher eddy currents. This is a scam
You don’t get the voltage from the transformers. If you look at the original design it’s from the terminal box on top of the motor. The motor is acting as a generator.
@@Watchman-Eze33 I don't know how they determined the mix or ratio. I thought they said it was AlAg, Aluminum Silver, but if it needs diamagnetic, Bismuth, Copper, Gold, and Pyrolitic Graphite based on what I saw online. I really don't want this to be another wild goose chase for anyone. If it's real, why don't they just tell us? The longer they keep it a secret, the more likely they will never get it out. Just full disclosure, let us make our own or buy one that works.
The motionless version is better though using resonating Mot cores each end of a set of stator coils. The stator coils produce multicoil current some of which supplies the MOT cores and useful excess power!!!!!!
I see something. The copper windings are too far from the magnet 🧲. The lines of magnetic force are weak that far away. Not enough strength to make much voltage. If you look at any regular generator, the iron core inside the winding is not much past the copper, maybe a quarter inch, where you have two inches. I think this is why you're getting such low voltage. If you can get the copper a lot closer to the magnet the voltage should come up.
Hi Watchman2021....kudu's for trying....the magnets might be N52's but is to little flux to energize your coils to produce the expected volts. Also, the coil's wire you used it to thick for high voltage. (That Liberty machine is a scam as is but have huge potential as I will explain)....that coils you used is for high current usage and thus your low voltage output. I suggest you use about 0,5 mm copper wire in conjunction with that size coil wire in parallel with each other....in other words....wind another coil with 0,5 mm wire to take up all the space between the excising coil and the rotor, but wire it in parallel. That will give you much higher voltage and the microwave coil will give you the current.
Your magnets are far to small...they need to be as wide as the transformer center you used. Also, pls use a piece of metal at the back of the magnet as it cause the magnets to have better flux density on the other surface. Think about speaker magnets that has a back plate....you remove that back plate and the ceramic ring magnet all of a sudden has far less attractive or repulsive power.
It goes without saying that you must have all the coils in series as to add the voltage and currents available. In addition to that I have build mine with 8 microwave oven transformers. All at 45 degrees with 8 magnets. The voltage output is not good with just 4 transformers.....has a sine wave then flat for 45 degrees....but with 8 TR's the sine wave is much better....not perfect but huge improvement...Magnet size is 50x25x15 neodymium which give far more flux density then the thin little one.....But its important to use 2 coils per transformer.....one for voltage and on for current. Mine works well....good luck bro!!
Thanks for the info & suggestions. I will investigate these in time to come.
If I may ask, how much voltage does yours produce in the setting/configuration you have mentioned above bro? Been trying to figure this out without luck
Good afternoon friend, your coil base seems to be solid, it has to be the same as the transformer or laminated. If your rotor is made of 304 stainless steel it will help with the power. You used 12 n52 magnets. 3 per cavity. This way it has a better chance of working. Good luck, I'm in the crowd.
Hätte ich die Zeit,super System
I could be wrong but those coils dont supply the power. They act as electro magnets to leep the device spinning. The power is generated by the motor the flywheel is attached to.
That is the point. The alternator gives excitation current to the coils which spins to keep the alternator going, at the same time, alternator gives out the energy to be utilised.
Egy motort azért nevezzük motornak,hogy a felvett elektromos munkát ,mechanikai munkává alakítsa!
@@josephnwankwo8563ahh , he’s not exciting the coils. Found the problem.
❤❤❤ Can't wait to see the this work. 😊😊😊😊
Im not an expert but I THINK the secret of the Liberty Engine 2 is the rotor. To design a highly effective rotor for a Liberty Engine 2 based on a mix of aluminum and silver, as suggested, the materials should optimize the following characteristics: electrical conductivity, magnetic permeability, durability, and thermal management. Again, DON'T hold me for it. Here is a breakdown:
Key Requirements for Rotor Material:
Electrical Conductivity:
High conductivity is essential for minimizing resistive losses and improving efficiency.
Magnetic Properties:
Magnetic permeability is crucial for efficiently channeling magnetic fields in electromagnetic generators or motors.
Thermal Management:
The rotor must dissipate heat effectively to maintain performance under continuous operation.
Structural Strength:
The material must withstand mechanical stresses during high-speed rotation.
Recommended Material Composition for Rotor:
Aluminum (70-80%):
Role: Forms the bulk of the rotor due to its lightweight, good conductivity, and corrosion resistance.
Advantages: Reduces overall rotor weight, increasing efficiency and reducing energy consumption.
Silver (10-15%):
Role: Enhances conductivity in critical areas, such as conductive pathways or surface layers.
Advantages: Silver’s superior conductivity improves performance in applications where current density is high.
Placement: Could be used as a coating, alloying element, or in conductive paths.
Iron (5-10%):
Role: Provides magnetic permeability for efficient magnetic flux.
Advantages: Enhances electromagnetic interactions; particularly useful if the rotor interacts with magnetic fields.
Silicon or Silicon Steel (1-5%):
Role: Reduces eddy current losses in areas where magnetic fields fluctuate.
Advantages: Ensures efficient energy conversion by reducing waste heat and improving magnetic efficiency.
Copper (5-10%) (Optional):
Role: Alternative or complement to silver in conductive regions.
Advantages: More economical than silver with nearly equivalent conductivity.
Proposed Structure and Application:
Core: A ferromagnetic material such as soft iron or silicon steel for magnetic permeability.
Conductive Pathways: A mix of silver and aluminum, with silver used for key contact points or high-current regions to optimize conductivity.
Surface: An aluminum-silver alloy for durability and conductivity, with a silver content of 10-15% in the alloy.
Manufacturing Notes:
Alloying:
Aluminum-silver alloys are challenging to produce but offer excellent conductivity and thermal performance.
Mixing aluminum with small amounts of silicon can improve strength while maintaining lightweight properties.
Coating:
A thin layer of pure silver on key surfaces can significantly enhance electrical performance without drastically increasing costs.
Example Proportions for the Rotor:
Material / Proportion (%)
Aluminum / 70-80
Silver / 10-15
Iron / 5-10
Silicon/Silicon Steel / 1-5
This composition strikes a balance between performance, cost, and manufacturability. For optimal results, computational simulations and prototype testing should validate the design against operational requirements.
I did the same creatiin as you and got out same voltage aroung 7v each so if i to conect each coil together i would have got output around 20v which is not enough to give the power back to the motor not even to have left to power other equipment, greate work thank you for confirming my experiment. You did nothing wrong i did the exact same thing, but as tou know the magician never reveal the secret 😅
Thanks for your comment, I thought to share my findings so the truth about this can come out.
@@Watchman-Eze33 did you see the comment where someone lists the original motor as being 2800rpm..?? if true its a poor show on the liberty team... but more speed may be key
😩dude make your wheel out of silver and aluminum even if you make it with epoxy put pure silver powder and aluminum powder in epoxy if your not gonna smelt it your welcome i did it works
Azért nem fedi fel mert akkor kiderülne ,hogy az egész egy nagy marha csalás!
@@jamesdean5418 inertia. look at everything in the universe spinning.. magnetism and spin.
Generátor számítás: N=összes menet, B= indukció=T=Tesla,L=vezető hosszúsága, v=sebesség. Tehát N*B*L*v, Itt a vezető hosszúsága az amit a mágnes 90° metsz, a számításnál egy palástfelülettel kell számolni,(D*pi*L) , tehát a mágneseknek ezt a felületet kell befogniuk. A te készülékednél a felület vagyis a palást csak kb. 0.01*pi*L, hiába. nagyobb a forgórész átmérője, keresztmetszete a màgnesek által határolt palástfelület csak 0.01*pi*L Feltételezve a méretezést a számítás a következő: N=400, az indukció 0.94T, a mágnes hosszúsága kb. 50mm, a palástfelülete 0.01*pi*L, a v=sebesség, a sebességet a fordulatszámból számítható ki:pl. (1500/60)*2=50Hz. A 2 a póluspárok száma. A kiszámított feszültség , kb. 29.845 /4=7.46V. Hogy nagyobb feszültséget kapjál a mágneseknek a palásthoz viszonyított méretét kell növelni. A forgórész kerületét négy részre kell osztani, és így kapod meg kb. mágnesek által behatárolt felületet. Célszerű az alumínium helyett lemezből készíteni a forgórészt, lehetőleg dinamó, vagy transzformátor lemezből, ragasztóval összeragasztva. Vagy olyan .méretű màgneseket választani ami az adott palástfelületnek megfelel. RL energetika.
Na ez egy szakszerű válasz!Így javítható a generátor hatásfoka ,de ez sem lesz elegendő a plusz energia előállításához! Javaslom a fenti észrevétel elkészítését,hogy egy vasmagon két féle tekercs legyen .Egy nagy átmérőjű és egy kis átméröjű tekercseléssel!
Hey watchman, Hey Mehran, It’s the change of magnetic field N/S due to the rotor turning, that’s gonna produce the needed electricity 1- for the needed minimum motor W to keep the system running and 2- the surplus of W you can use for other consumers. YOU did already á good mechanical job, but I think the gaps in between rotor and stator are not so good and I’m not sure you used the original “fe” core for the coils. The magnets, better check the magnetic power before mounting with iron dust on a glass or paper and than do the checking again when mounted into the rotor. Motor or transformer : the gaps and positioning (even wiring position) is very important the get the maximum magnetic fluctuations and to get the maximum output! Also check again N/S.
Дукую! Гарна робота. Повне розвінчання шахраїв.
Ez az igazság!
try to put magnet to the center of winding instead of alloy. make it around 5mm near each other. its magnet to magnet. modified by putting a running capacitor. if the temperature of the rotor exceed to 80 centigrade adjust it to 10mm. it may damage your magnet. or put a cooling fan.
They go off about the “special secret silver and aluminum mixture” for the drum wheel with the magnets claiming that was a big part of it functioning….. could we just stack another coil next to these ones and splice? I’m a plumber so be kind haha. Great work
O circuito tem que ser replicado, as medidas parecem estar diferentes do exemplo base, e talvez possa haver segredo na quantidade de imãs no rotor magnético. Podem ter imãs fundidos sob o alumínio. Pois enfatizaram que o segredo está no rotor. Já vi outras réplicas dando bons resultados de geração, embora não colocados para funcionar autônomos.
Nu are importanță prea mare locul bobinei pe miez, ci mai degrabă e greșit ales magnetul, care trebuie neapărat să fie cât lățimea miezului de tole pe care e băgat bobina. Un magnet îngust, nu poate crea o amplitudine mare , dacă miezul e mult mai lat , așa cum se vede în imagini. Eu nu cred în „vrăjeala” cu miezul din amestec de argint, deși un prieten mi-a descris niște motoare cu așa miezuri, folosite în domeniul extracției de petrol. Dacă poți, refă rotorul , montând pe el magneți lați cât miezul bobinelor, și groși, pentru a fi puternici. La o turație de 1500 de ture, fiecare bobină ar trebui să producă o tensiune aproape de 220-230V (pentru că aici vor fi 50Hz) , și curentul pe care-l poate da sârma , miezul și magnetul. Așa se pot lega bobinele în paralel pentru a spori intensitatea curentului, sau serie și paralel, pentru a le spori pe ambele dacă e nevoie.
Thanks for the info, it all makes sence. I will look at getting larger magnets.
I mean, I just saw this video and have no idea what this thing is, some people were talking about free energy, not sure I want to comment on that... but for regular generators you want to make sure that the magnetic field of your stator array, that is driving your central rotor, is properly synchronized with the rotor. (If there is no modulation of the field you will have improper function) With something like this you might want to have 3phase ac and switch the 'plus' configuration of stator electromagnets to a hexagonal one to utilize max power of the 120 degree phase offset.
The feedback was from the motor to the coils, in 3 phases.
Also thier claim was the aluminum and silver alloy reduced eddy currents, your rotor is pure aluminum.
So, tweaking that, and feeding it through a microwave transformer was their design.
So unplug it from the wall, feedback the input to the output and 3 phrase the coils, with silver aluminum composite.
To be 1 to 1 in the build.
Note: there are 6 magnets per cavity, giving a total of 24 n52 magnets, the strongest I have ever seen.
did you use a mixture of metals in the rotor alloy? Adding Metals to Optimize Properties
While silver and aluminum provide excellent conductivity and lightweight characteristics, they are non-magnetic. To optimize for magnetic rotation, adding small amounts of specific metals can improve the alloy's overall performance:
Metals to Add:
Copper (Cu):
Enhances electrical conductivity.
Improves thermal dissipation.
Recommended Proportion: 5-10%.
Nickel (Ni):
Adds corrosion resistance.
Increases hardness and durability for high-speed rotation.
Recommended Proportion: 1-3%.
Iron (Fe):
Introduces mild magnetic properties to interact more effectively with external magnetic fields.
Reduces the need for entirely external magnetic components.
Recommended Proportion: 1-2% (to avoid excessive weight and brittleness).
Manganese (Mn):
Improves wear resistance and prevents alloy cracking under high stress.
Stabilizes the microstructure.
Recommended Proportion: 0.5-1%.
Titanium (Ti):
Enhances strength-to-weight ratio, ideal for high-speed rotation.
Recommended Proportion: 1-2%.
Resulting Alloy Composition (Approximate):
Silver: 50-60%.
Aluminum: 30-40%.
Copper: 5-10%.
Nickel: 1-3%.
Iron: 1-2%.
Manganese: 0.5-1%.
Titanium: 1-2%.
1. You have mounted your windings and transformer core in a + sign right? The top and bottom windings and core take a North pole status. The horizontal ones - south pole. The mounting of the magnets dictates this. This causes current to flow first in one direction originating from the North Pole windings as the rotor with the magnets rotates then the current alternates or changes directions as the north pole magnets fly past the horizontal coils..
Your mistakes by observation - you are testing your coils individually when they should be paired - top with bottom, side to side. All the four coils with eight terminals should be wired to give you two terminals - live and neutral for alternating current (AC).
The strength of your magnets matters.
The RPM matters
Note: The generator is your microwave coils at the front with the transformer core. What you have at the back is your motor receiving power from the generator.
Your setup is incomplete.
It is the engine that produces the electricity, not the transformers, they keep the rotor in motion, that is the idea, the electricity is not needed for power supply. Check the voltage at the engine plug
the magnets keep the motor turning. when the motor turns without being plugged in to source electricity it makes the power youre looking for.
Study implosion, Victor schauburger, clem engine, Donnie watts generator and a cavitation steam turbine, implosion using cavitation= overunity
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out.
The coil core is just a block of steel? Massive eddy currents basically absorbing energy. Move the coil closer to the rotating magnetic field, they are miles away. This alternator looks neat, but it's a wonderful example of what not to do.
What is the speed of the motor? and the size of the magnet?
The magnetic permeability of the metal core you use? That core doesn't seem to be the original microwave transformer core. It looks like solid steel.
Try to move the coil closer to the magnet. I think you get low voltage because of a couple of things: the coil is too far in; motor speed sounds slow; magnetic strength?; and perhaps number of turns is low; may be the cores you used too.
you did a great job by the way. Looks very nice.
The motor is 1400rpm as per the original video. I used 4 x 900w microwave transformers, I only sanded the cores to look clean, but they are genuine. Moving the coils closer makes no difference, I tried it also.
@@Watchman-Eze33 Low voltage means a weak magnetic field to the wire (this can be weak magnets or poor permeability). You said you use the original core so what is left is not enough magnetic force. The second reason is the number of turns too small.
Do this experiment: Get another microwave transformer and take out the part like you did; put the same coil and core and run 120 volts or 220 volts, whatever voltage you use. Get a gause meter and check the magnetic strength at the core. Once you know the number, check if you get the same with the rotor in your generator. That will give you an idea if you have enough magnetic strength. You will need more than what you measured out of the experiment.
@@Watchman-Eze33 the motor should be 3000rpm
I built mine just recently. I connected the coils in series and was getting a total of 25v ac. I used the old washing machine motor ( universal motor) and was powering it from a 12v dc car battery.
I know that the difference in the results I am getting is lies in the electrical/ electronics connection of the output coils. I believe that with more probe, it will be unraveled. The liberty engine producers are yet to inform people of the way the output coils are connected essentially. How did they treat back emf? The drive motor has to speed faster.
Let us have a little patience. It must be cracked. Let us all continue with the experimentation. There is hope.
@@Watchman-Eze33dostum liberty engine 2 de kullanilan motor 1400 rpm degil uzerini kalemle cizmisler 2760 rpm yani 3000rpm birseyleri yanlis veriyorlar
Maybe the magnets are too weak. Additionally the weight of the rotor might be an issue. The other rotor has 7.6 kg. I would finish the wiring First, because their might be backfeeding and resonating effects between the motor and the microwave coils. Good work, btw. I like your design.
Please move your coils to the edge of the cores as close as possible to the rotor, you will get more voltage but not nearly close to 110V which is what you should get per coil to then connect it is series to get the 230V the liberty guys claims. I think one should place 8 magnets which is in four pairs with the pairs the same distance apart as the width of the coils.
Can yall learn some basic math and ohm law as well as thermodynamics. This is embarrassing. It doesn't work, it can't work... unless you've cracked room temperature super conductors. Anyways, I have a bridge to sell.
perhaps your magnets need to be closer to the coil inside an ac motor the magnets are considerably close I personally would start there I don't believe the protrusion of Iron helps but it helps in keeping the coil in place .
Have you check the polarity of each coil? In order to connect them there should be a opposing polarity on each coil. Connect them properly to produce a continuous cycle of magnetism (north and south pole) on the core which the coil is placed. Use a compass to determine the polarity of each coil. Then you can proceed with your experiment. Good luck
Це ж саме хотів написати, про те що в даній конструкції від котушок не ідуть провода, але я не написав би так грамотно як це зробили ви тому що я 0 в електротехніці, ну гаразд, трішечки більше нуля.
А автор відео на правильному шляху, нехай він досягне мети 🙏
I think the magnets on the rotor are spaced too far apart. And they are alternating north, south, north ? I would start by looking at the 7.4v on a scope! Seems the wave will be very strange
If you series each coil you'd get around 28v which you can run many motors on. Corded tools ac motors can be replaced with battery powered tool dc motors just add a diode. There are plenty of ways to fake it. I know very little but that's what goes through my head. If the original isn't really doing what they say it does.
the trick is in the alloy of the rotor, it must be argaliumalpha what they stated, its dialectric metal that provides sinewave oscillation which makes is generate excessive amounts of power
Do you perhaps know the mix of the materials used to make the rotor. I know it has silver, aluminium and perhaps some bismuth?
Is it solid aluminum? They had 6 smaller magnets in each row 3 on top of each other. Maybe need to stack a couple more magnets in each row. Now they did say the rotor was an aloy of silver, aluminum and other metals. Said if it wasn't that it wouldn't work right. But I don't know why it wouldn't. I think you need more rare earth magnets.
Nice--- 🤯👀🤔👍
Make sure you have the right coils, there are typically 2, a low voltage and high voltage coil.
220v and 450kv ..... and a small 3v i think, the original engine calls for the 220v coils
very good effort
The rotor made with 304 stainless steel is diamagnetic, meaning it doesn't attract magnets. I think that's the key to this problem, which they don't reveal.
The rotor had to be made at least of material which is not magnetic (aluminum). If steel is used the magnetic field strength is dissipated in the rotor itself. Secondly if you want to mimic the liberty engine a minimum of 3xN35 placed on top of each other had to be used if not N52’s. Lastly you got to make sure that for this kind of setup a 2 pole motor having a series run capacitor motor of around 2800rpm is used.
Lastly good luck i hope you succeed.
I used aluminium for the rotor. I used a 1400rpm motor as per the original video. My magnets are 60x10x5 and have 2 ontop of each other. I chose n52 as the original video suggested.
@@Watchman-Eze33 That’s great however the only option you’re left trying is to use a 2800rpm 2-pole with series capcitor motor.
May I withdraw ypur attention that the one used in the libert engine video is an ‘SEMKH 71-2C’
@@Watchman-Eze33 contrary to popular belief aluminium is actually magnetically reactive 180 out from iron
N52 magnets would be best.
@@EF-Electrics so the original video uses a 2800 rpm motor.....
The power output from the coils will not be enough to run the motor when you take off the supply, try to do it other side, replace the motor with a generator of similar size and let the power output to energize the coils and if work, you can hook some loads to the generator
You have to Connect the upper coil with lower one and all together with the Motor Electricity
Позвольте спросить,катушки вырабатывают електроэнергию а он их рабочем состоянии руками трогает,😮там нет энергии тока?🎉
Please follow these recomendations:
Magnets must not be hudden into rotor.
Connect in parallel a coil and his opposite
What material was used to build the rotor? Must be alluminum 7075
Please try to do these changes and try again, good lock!!!
After looking at this video again I figured out what you did wrong. You do not have the copper coils hooked up to the engine. You need to wire them together then wire them to the engine as the power supply for the engine. The 7.6 that each coil is producing is what turns the engine on instead of plugging it in and then it starts to turn the turbine which is what is giving it power becoming a closed loop system. Then you wire a plug in 🔌 power strip to the engine and that is where you get your power from. The 230 you're looking for. I hope you still have this and haven't gotten ride of it yet because it will work if you do that.
I built one myself and now I understand more the problems you are running into also. You're right it doesn't produce enough power and the gravity friction is the problem. Working on a solution to work with gravity instead of fighting it.
Kár ez egy rossz ötlet A Motorra rákapcsolod a tekercsek adta feszültséget akkor a motor ezt a feszültséget szinte le fogja nullázni.Nem tudom miért hisszük azt,hogy a motor tekercsét bekötve az áramkörbe nagyobb lesz a feszültség??
Transformers opposite each other are wire together so two sets of wires are to connect to power board in the end
Ok add more magnet and make sure you put them to the rotating pulley N S pole your result will be greater
I did mine one at first I was getting 20v AC and I continued until it gives me 220v
detail please...... whats youre rotor setup
The original device is not a scam, per say, but it most likely works with the law of intent ( the observer creating the outcome ) rather than pure 3D laws of physics.
My intentions are to make a time machine
But my intent Law's are Broken 💔😢
You're smart enough to know that 4D physics could solve this, unfortunately too dumb to know the energy needed to break the barrier, it becomes a negative sum. Trust me, if myself and the boys at Perimeter couldn't figure it out, buddy in his shed has half a chance. Lots of different energy scavaging effects can give you free energy today. Like run a IC engine on the principal of magnetically constrained plasma field collapse in a vaccum. That can be done in a home shop. Or super simple, take 2 40gal air tanks, link them and fill one half with water and pull a vaccum, burry the other in the dirt and leave one in the sun. (Best run in group of 4 with a flip/flop piping.) Have a air turbine in the middle. The vaccum lowers the boil point and tada its a steam turbine at room temp using the temp difference between the ground and air. Works reverse in cold climates.
guys we can have free energy any time we want. My whole property runs on random contraptions like I just outlined.
Anyways if liberty was real the inventor would not be on this earth if he tells you how it works or not, if you get my drift.
can i get your email id like to talk to you about this and others. @@saleemcarr9501
hello, i think your problem is used material of rotor. It must be composition alloy from aluminum and silver. 822g piece of rotor must have: 343g Al + 542g of Ag. Alloy must make by yourself.
i think the distance beteewn the rotor and the coils, if they are closer, the magnetc field is stronger
what if you try to connect 2 coil to other coil so it can lift up the voltage ?? cause i think the microwave transformer is to jack up the voltage right ? and i think your magnet is not enough. great job
I connected all 4 coils in series & got voltage of 30V, then connected the motor to the output and used a pullstring to spin it up, had no luck getting it to run.
@@Watchman-Eze33Well did you try to connect some load and to measure what is the current(or wattage) on some rpm(~1500rpm)
I would add 4 more coils to fill in the space a bit and get more of the magnetic field being generated, then put them in a series and maybe throw in some caps for dis charging
The magnets are for rotating the motor the motor then should put out the electricity for consumption. Your doing it backwards the 7 volts is for mopower for the free spinning. (Again) magnets spin motor for free. Motor makes electricity to use.
Ezt remélem nem mondod komolyan.Te már feltaláltad azt amotort ami nem fogyasztja ,hanem termeli az áramot??Gratulálok ez egy nagy marhaság!Tanultál fizikát?A motor akkor adhat le feszültséget amikor kikapcsolják és még lendületből forog.a motor energia elnyelő nem ad elektromos energiát!
have you tried to get the generator to spin with the magnet motor? that is the purpose of the PMM. you don't need to make 220 volts to power the generator. you need the rpms correctly with the ability to give it more power under load. If you REALLY want more electricity from the magnet motor, then more windings, more magnets? if that rotor is metal it's eating the magentism... you could try to use teflon or something for the rotor. But the motor itself just needs to spin the generator at the set RPMs. Fantastic work btw.
Excelente por favor continue postando o seu trabalho!! Parabéns!!
The coils not for generating power. It’s electro magnetic. In the back side you have installed normal motor. You should install turbine instead of motor
Another thing I ser wrong is the armature is shorted out, remember the excitation principle, magnets excite coils trough core, core makes the enviroment to excite the coils.
Try to check signal with scope, must be sine wave
well i tell you 2 things increase your coild to 8 and put larger and more magnets so try 1 inch wide magnets and covering the total lenngth of the rotor , the voltage will go up , you wire each 2 coils in series . good luck
i don't understand, what did you expect to get. you have little coils being excited with some magnets and you are generating electricity. you can increase the efficiency by minimizing the gap between the magnets and the coil cores. you can use heavier gauge wire in your coils for more current. you can increase the number of your coil loops for more voltage. you have made a decent experiment for using power to make less power which is exactly what should have been expected as you have all that loss among other things due to heat and noise (vibration).
As I've seen in the original Liberty,he had 2 magnets on top of eachother i belive the pulley,or the rotor how you call it,it was far bigger then yours , he also claimed to be made from silver and other materials,he didn't say for sure what material used for it,but he said more silver in it.
Also you should wire up that beast and see if it works.
I cant wait to see someone who managed to copy that liberty engine.
That would save many people!
Aluminum + Silver supposedly reduce the eddy current. That doesn't help with the voltage. The problem here is the voltage is too low.
your coil is too far from the magnets
Перевод на руский
E un hoț !
Omul, a reprodus cât se poate de corect, mai puțin partea cu magneții, dar nu asta e cauza. E distanță prea mare, de la 7V la 230. Magnetul ar produce tensiunea de chiar 230V, dacă ar fi cât miezul de lat și turația potrivită , respectiv 1500 de ture, corespunzător celor 4 poli. Concluzia e că nu va funcționa , să pui și aur ! Trebuie ca la antrenarea rotorului, să participe și reactiva, nu să-l frâneze la apropierea magnetului de miezul bobinei. Eu am obținut acest efect de mărire a vitezei de rotație la adăugarea de sarcină, dar tot nu e clar dacă e real benefic.
I think the rotor and the coils are the motor! And the electric motor will be as the generator. Do you understand my point? I mean everything must be vice versa.
the rotating magnets arent close enough to coils too much distance.
Basically ... You're only checking the coils.
Total is around 28 the rest of the voltage comes from the motor... The coil creates electric magnetic energy. Coils are not the full energy provider because their separate to help the router spin so it can power up the motor so it can create energy
A motorból nem jöhet feszültség.A motorba megy bele a feszültség.Különben akkor a motort nevezhetnénk generátornak??
Out of curiosity would it change the output if the coils were closer to the magnets? I have not tried this project yet
I was thinking the same thing
sounds sweet.
7 x 4+ 28?
56
Quel rapport avec le sujet ?
its 7V because those look like microwave oven secondary windings (low voltage)
The club weighs 7.6 kg because 81% is silver and 19% aluminum Aluminum has a conductivity of almost 40. Silver has a conductivity of almost 70. A pure aluminum core cannot generate the magnetic field to achieve these values
М да бред.
А что ты сам не покажешь как это должно работать?
Умник.
Говорить одно а вот как Автор показать другое!
맞아요. 나도 계산해 보니 당신의 계산법이 맞았습니다. 실행을 못하는 이유는 은이 비싸기 때문입니다. 저의 생각과 같은 분을 처음 만났습니다.
@@미스터T-z8h man please translate in Russian language
@@미스터T-z8hAnd he has all the transformers winding in the same direction
how is something supposed to work?
Good afternoon, I modified a 150 amp alternator from a Ford Fusion with a rotor made of common iron and it got 48 volts and 30 amps, with a 30x10x05 neodymium magnet. In other words, yours was supposed to be stronger because it used a microwave transformer.
Uma obs: parece que suas bobinas estão acentada em material maciço ,tem que ser laminado igual as do trafo de microondas.
One note: it appears that your coils are made of solid material, it has to be laminated like the microwave transformer
Cool, another South African playing. In all these devices there has to be resonance.
A rezonancia önmagában nem energia növelő!A rezgést fennt kell tartani és ha terhelést adsz rá, akkor a rendszer fenntartásához újabb energiára van szükség!
push your coils closer to the center, see if there is a differance
The number of magnets is not like the original n52, it has 5 pairs one after the other but there I see the magnets have only one, there is no force to generate
Determine first if its AC or DC current. The fact that you can touch the leads on the transformers suggests DC. If that's the case you will never generate enough power to run the motor in loop. You need a rectifier And super capacitors. The capacitor (like a rechargeable battery) will be charged by the 7.33 volt DC transformer in just a few seconds and dump high voltage AC back into the motor to run it. 4 transformers, 4 capacitors and a rectifier. It needs to be regulated by sequence to stay running.
To generate AC magnets need to be one pole and next one opposite pole while rotating
You've not taken note of the workings... The Liberty Engine doesn't run on electricity it makes it through the motor/generator attached. As for some of these people on here.. the silver aluminum mix is to keep the Eddy currents down to zero. One guy on here said it'd make it higher that's backwards! He also stated it'd be a crazy amount of money. It's not a 50/50 roll stock it's a silver infused aluminum stock. The silver also helps magnify the magnets as does the charge from the generator linked to the copper coils. Surely you can look at your contraption and see you are not finished. I'm building one.. I'm not saying I've tested this but I am saying youre not done and you have some things wrong. I wouldn't buy a silver/aluminum mix stock till I finished with what you have. It seems to me with the epoxy working the aluminum will as well. Try contacting the copper coils in line like the video and connect them to your motor, put some kind of rope to be able to pull the motor fast enough to get it started working and like on the video let it get up to speed then test it. I recommend you be very careful as it should be high voltage. Don't forget to use a switch to be able to cut off the power from the coils to the motor. Good luck hope it works.. because I want mine to work!
Yea, you got it backwards. The microwave coils were switching polls to push the magnets along, turning the motor which the motor made electricity.
I want to ask why you think it's the generator, it could be the motor as we move the aluminum, just a question
Since 15 years, I have been dealing with angular energy electricity generation systems (R&D). My positive designs about angular continue. In this regard, my own financial means are insufficient, I had meetings with many businessmen, they accepted the financing of the project, but they gave up when it came to signing a protocol, that is, when it came to formalisation. If there is an entrepreneur who will take firm steps with me on this path, who is idealistic, has financial means and wants to make an official protocol, I would like to meet. 98% of the published videos are wrong and do not work. I know the mistake they all make.
Las bobinas de microondas tienen que estar conectadas a las bobinas del motor, así forma una bobina más grande. El capacitor es clave en el proceso y no creo tanto en eso de la aleación, solo con aluminio debería funcionar igual tal vez un poco menos eficaz.
Hi Watchman, i believe you can make improvements, you can add coils, you can add strong magnets, you can add faster motor, you can reach higher voltage - but you will never get back 300 Watts (or more) power to drive the motor. I think you know it..
Did You Check Neo-Magnet and Make them North and South Correctly ?😅
There must be something wrongly set up: imagine, a "bicycle dynamo" produces already 6-7V with a sober magnet, but with more wire winding, seems to me. So your measurements seem to me much too low for a beautiful looking device. Bravo for the construction.
Put more coils and magnets to get 220 volt ,then feed to motor ,try again you will definitely succeed
Any Luck with it? Maget polarity North -North, South-South on opposite side. And connect 2opposite coil on parallel, then read the voltage.
Yes, the magnet polarity is N-N & S-S on opposite side of the rotor. Connecting the opposite coils in parallel still gave me around 7V. I then connected all 4 coils in series & got voltage of 30V, then connected the motor to the output and used a pullstring to attempt to spin it up, had no luck getting it to run.
@@Watchman-Eze33 something still isn't right... May likely be from your rotor. Perhaps the alloy or magnet. Your rpm seems fine enough to generate a 220v out. Thou increasing the microwave coil turns will increase the output voltage. Share your progress pls!
The file is the reason
The number of coil turns determines the voltage
Why didn't you measure the ampere on video so we could know exactly what was wrong?
Two major things are missing. I would have loved to share it but I won't at least not now.
Did you manage to get the silver to alloy weight ratio and the weight of the rotor correctly.
check the magnet north/south, motor rpm should at least 2800 rpm and use non magnetic rotor
The magnets are correct. The motor is 1400rpm as per the original video.
The liberty engine does not exploit any of the known over unity exploits/methods. I would not bother building it. But your device does look very well constructed.
Good morning, I can't understand how you only got 7 volts, I had a common iron rotor made, I put in a n35 magnet which is weaker than the n52 and I got 50 v and 60 amps, my magnets measure 30x10x5. using a 3600 rpm two-phase moto
You got higher voltage because of the higher speed. The faster the magnets move, the faster the flux is cut by the coils and cores, and the higher the volts obtained.
WHAT PROPORTION USED IN ROTOR ¿? ALUMINIO, PLATA, COBRE,HIERRO ?? USED THIS AND THIS WOPK : 40% plata 30% aluminio 10 % nikel hierro 20% manganina
Well, nice building skills. First magnets and coils must be in close proximity to have higher B. Second magnetic field must "cut" coil at 90 degree as in E=B*l*v*sin (angle). Core is used, usually to increase inductivity of the coil and tend to close magnetic field into itself. I guess that is the reason for low voltage. So to improve design increase rotating speed, and put coils and magnets as closer as you can. Use bigger N52 magnets and stronger. Avoid Aluminium in rotor to avoid Eddy currents. Last one is use oscilloscope to see what is happening and wawe shape and timings. Cheers.
interesting...
@@jamesdean5418 Yea, imagine similar design not vaste magnetic force. One magnet drive 3 coils, left, right and top. Left and right coils wounded CW and CCW to eliminate cogging. Similar to Adams motor/generator. Cheers.