I always tell my students you never stop learning in this business. I hadn't heard of this method but it totally makes sense. This will make for a good lesson later in the year when I have my students spray for the first time in their lives. What is good about doing this in my class is that we don't have to try this on a customer vehicle and worry about having to redo work. It's done on practice panels where it is ok to make mistakes and usually encouraged. This lets me teach them to use creativity to solve problems. High school students in case anyone is wondering.
Geez, wished we had auto body in school. All we had was small engine mechanics............and of course all the students wanted to know how to hot wire a car. My teacher said, Boyz, I'm teaching you all how to work on engines and such and I'm NOT going to teach you how to become an auto thief. Do that on your own time, I will not be culpable in this. Never stole 1 car EVER. Never forgot those questions though.
I used to use this method. I do mobile auto body and paint repair so I deal with this often. I've learned a new method that is 100 times faster. Tape up the corners of a razor blade, make sure it's brand new, stand it up right on top of the run 90° straight up. Scrape it back and forth on the run make sure the clear coat is very hard at this point. Scratch it back and forth until the run is level with the clear. Sand 1500, then a quick 2000, a quick 3000, cut polish and hard pad or wool pad, and then I'm finishing glaze. Super fast and works better. The potty method works but sometimes you still have a bit of a bump that you end up having to block flat anyways so what's the point? And it takes way way longer and it uses up expensive putty. It used to be my go-to method until I discovered the razor blade method.
i once used the razor blade method, under that clear run after scrapping, the thickest run point seemed to also scrape all the way back to bare metal. what did i do wrong?
@@ninja_slothsracer You did not have the razor angled up but down and you cut all the way down thru it all. The point is to start at the top and never quite take it (run) all the way out. You can get it very close, and then sand with 1000 and/or up. I use a glazing putty that removes 1000 and smaller scratches. And covering the corners means to use masking tape as a protective layer on the corners to prevent the edge dip cut thru slip.
Fingernail test before attempt. If your nail can dig into the clear (DON'T TRY DIGGING YOUR NAIL IN JUST LIGHTLY TEST IT !!! soft like or not fully hardened you can tell the difference) its too soft, Time is your friend, let it fully cure.
No, that was smart kid. You could see it after your first sanding. The high points of the entire run showed through. Then I could see that putty was just there as a protectant from sanding to the good paint. Genius my man. I won't forget that one. Thanks
Awesome video sir! Thank you for telling and showing the grits you were using. I've got similar runs on my rocker panel I have to sand out. I will be trying this version versus a razor blade. Thank you again.
Hey mate great video a method i find allot easier is infra red panel make sure run isnt soft and use a tungsten block to shave the run off its pretty much fool proof if its dry and take ur time. You are only taking the run off only not around it
Worked in a body shop from 1971 to 1981 before going on to other things. Did metal work and painting. Never had much luck block sanding big runs like the one shown for the reason explained at the end of your vid. Now doing restorations on two cars I've owned for over 50 years and trying to get my skill level back. This technique is a good solution for fixing runs on single stage solid colors. Please do a vid on metallic colors as I suspect that the metallic will settle at the bottom of the droops and will be visible after final polishing, but I may be wrong. Thanks for sharing!
Yes if you shoot a single stage metallic this is not going to work. I would not recommend shooting a metallic as a single stage, solid colors only. Base clear all the way for metallics / pearls. I would think any cutting / buffing on a metallic would yield a problem. Thanks for watching!!
I did this the day after and the dye in the hardener stained my clear on a bright silver job… make sure the clear is cured! it worked fantastic on getting rid of the run though lol
Not stupid at all. If you have experience enough to hold the block flat should be fine, the filler acts as a protective barrier for the clear surrounding the run so that you don't cut too much off the sides while blocking out the run. One could also argue that it's easier to reclear the panel, but I wanted to show that there are other ways to attack a problem. Thanks for the comment!
Probably because it is very difficult to maintain flatness with the aggressive grits. A wavy surface in clear coat is just as noticeable as the run itself. The 600 and 800 grit papers are very easy to make waves in clear coat, and with how much depth had to be removed, pretty much *ANY* grit would have caused waves if used with a polisher. Heat also becomes a problem when sanding that much clear coat off with a polisher and sand paper. He did it exactly right by blocking it by hand to get the majority of the run out so it would come out straight and no waves. Remember that using a polisher and sand paper is only to be used to remove sanding scratches, not major paint defects.
I always tell my students you never stop learning in this business. I hadn't heard of this method but it totally makes sense. This will make for a good lesson later in the year when I have my students spray for the first time in their lives. What is good about doing this in my class is that we don't have to try this on a customer vehicle and worry about having to redo work. It's done on practice panels where it is ok to make mistakes and usually encouraged. This lets me teach them to use creativity to solve problems. High school students in case anyone is wondering.
Geez, wished we had auto body in school. All we had was small engine mechanics............and of course all the students wanted to know how to hot wire a car. My teacher said, Boyz, I'm teaching you all how to work on engines and such and I'm NOT going to teach you how to become an auto thief. Do that on your own time, I will not be culpable in this. Never stole 1 car EVER. Never forgot those questions though.
I used to use this method. I do mobile auto body and paint repair so I deal with this often. I've learned a new method that is 100 times faster. Tape up the corners of a razor blade, make sure it's brand new, stand it up right on top of the run 90° straight up. Scrape it back and forth on the run make sure the clear coat is very hard at this point. Scratch it back and forth until the run is level with the clear. Sand 1500, then a quick 2000, a quick 3000, cut polish and hard pad or wool pad, and then I'm finishing glaze. Super fast and works better. The potty method works but sometimes you still have a bit of a bump that you end up having to block flat anyways so what's the point? And it takes way way longer and it uses up expensive putty. It used to be my go-to method until I discovered the razor blade method.
What about a large area say 16” stretch on lower door?
i once used the razor blade method, under that clear run after scrapping, the thickest run point seemed to also scrape all the way back to bare metal. what did i do wrong?
@@ninja_slothsracer You did not have the razor angled up but down and you cut all the way down thru it all. The point is to start at the top and never quite take it (run) all the way out. You can get it very close, and then sand with 1000 and/or up. I use a glazing putty that removes 1000 and smaller scratches. And covering the corners means to use masking tape as a protective layer on the corners to prevent the edge dip cut thru slip.
Fingernail test before attempt. If your nail can dig into the clear (DON'T TRY DIGGING YOUR NAIL IN JUST LIGHTLY TEST IT !!! soft like or not fully hardened you can tell the difference) its too soft, Time is your friend, let it fully cure.
I understood it while you were doing it but the explanation sure does sell it!
You, sir, are a genius!! I have never heard of this before and is an excellent idea. Thank you for showing us. Subscribed!
No, that was smart kid. You could see it after your first sanding. The high points of the entire run showed through. Then I could see that putty was just there as a protectant from sanding to the good paint. Genius my man. I won't forget that one. Thanks
Awesome video sir! Thank you for telling and showing the grits you were using. I've got similar runs on my rocker panel I have to sand out. I will be trying this version versus a razor blade. Thank you again.
Hey mate great video a method i find allot easier is infra red panel make sure run isnt soft and use a tungsten block to shave the run off its pretty much fool proof if its dry and take ur time. You are only taking the run off only not around it
This is a great trick that I'm sure I will use when I repaint my car for the first time in a few months.
Great job,easy to follow and not a lot of rapping,thanks bro
Great technique, very methodical approach to fix paint runs.
good drawing demonstration at the end
thank you!
Worked in a body shop from 1971 to 1981 before going on to other things. Did metal work and painting. Never had much luck block sanding big runs like the one shown for the reason explained at the end of your vid. Now doing restorations on two cars I've owned for over 50 years and trying to get my skill level back. This technique is a good solution for fixing runs on single stage solid colors. Please do a vid on metallic colors as I suspect that the metallic will settle at the bottom of the droops and will be visible after final polishing, but I may be wrong. Thanks for sharing!
Yes if you shoot a single stage metallic this is not going to work. I would not recommend shooting a metallic as a single stage, solid colors only. Base clear all the way for metallics / pearls. I would think any cutting / buffing on a metallic would yield a problem. Thanks for watching!!
This is a very clear and useful video.
Nice job! Never thought of this!
Thanks, I've gotten runs like this before and would sand down and re-clear an entire panel sometimes. This works way better!
sometimes it might be easier to sand and reclear something, but this was an entire bedside and I didn't feel like doing it..LOL
Finally a new video on this subject,👍👍👍
I did this the day after and the dye in the hardener stained my clear on a bright silver job… make sure the clear is cured! it worked fantastic on getting rid of the run though lol
Great video
smart guy , thanks im going to try it .
Good technique. I'll keep that one in my back pocket.
The sign of a professional is how well they can hide mistakes
The best way to do it
Great idea, how long do you let it Clear or Single stage cure before attacking it?
Really good video..
Great video
I’m going to assume that this only applies to clear coat and not a single stage paint run?
this might be a stupid question, (I'm not a painter) but why the filler why not just sand the run if all the filler is removed
ok watch the whole video lol I see
Not stupid at all. If you have experience enough to hold the block flat should be fine, the filler acts as a protective barrier for the clear surrounding the run so that you don't cut too much off the sides while blocking out the run. One could also argue that it's easier to reclear the panel, but I wanted to show that there are other ways to attack a problem. Thanks for the comment!
Always been scared to try this gonna have to try on a practice panel
What. Happens to the clear coat?
It gets sanded off down to an appropriate level.
Why you didn’t sand the putty with the polisher?
Probably because it is very difficult to maintain flatness with the aggressive grits. A wavy surface in clear coat is just as noticeable as the run itself. The 600 and 800 grit papers are very easy to make waves in clear coat, and with how much depth had to be removed, pretty much *ANY* grit would have caused waves if used with a polisher. Heat also becomes a problem when sanding that much clear coat off with a polisher and sand paper.
He did it exactly right by blocking it by hand to get the majority of the run out so it would come out straight and no waves. Remember that using a polisher and sand paper is only to be used to remove sanding scratches, not major paint defects.
thanks
Good to know never leared this one razor blade is much more efficient looks like to me
I've used a razor for a long time as well. Always different ways to handle a situation, thanks for the support!
As a Pro painter, halfway through this process you’re at the point it would’ve been Quicker, cheaper to just sand and re shoot.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
They do make 2" tape bro,, lol
You will to get pleats in 2" tape when you have to tape in curved lines.
I never mastered this. Just seen it done by my father. I was actually better using a razor blade. Which is scare
too much work..just re clear it . takes 10 min.
or you can get a pro painter that does not spend 4 hours polishing 2 foot runs.
What in the fuck
Y go thru all that mess . Just use razor blade get high spots. Then sand and buff ur done..