Dometic Refrigerator - Igniter / Reigniter Obsolete Part Solved

[@kirkspiegel3951]

Thanks for the video, you saved me a lot of work. I was just embarking on building a high voltage spark igniter with a 555 timer chip for my frig. I have worked on a few of these igniter systems - that are also used on the large warehouse heaters. What most people don’t understand is these systems work on micro volts. They are called flame rectification sensing. Once the spark ignites the burner you notice that the flame impinges on the spark gap. There is actually a very small voltage being conducted across that spark gap in the ionized flame that is sensed by the control board (the large board). When the flame goes out either by being blown out or switching to electrical shore power there is no longer a conductive path across the spark gap and the re-ignition sequence starts again. That’s why re-ignition is almost instantaneous unlike a thermocouple that sits in the flame and heats up to generate a voltage. The guy who dreamed up using the flame conduction was a genius. The point of all this was to let people know that because you are dealing with micro lots it is absolutely essential to have solid grounds in the igniter system. Clean all the ground connections and even check the grounds for the whole system to the vehicle chassis. I chased a warehouse heater ignition problem for a week before I finally found the the problem was simply a poor ground connection. Also be aware that the red high voltage wire should be run/routed away from any ground sources like pipes and other sources of grounds and if you replace that wire for any reason only replace it with a wire that has very high voltage insulation. If you don’t it will jump a spark through the insulation to the closest ground source like a pipe or screw or any sheet metal near it - I found that out on a pool heater I worked on. That igniter wire is probably carrying 20,000 volts to jump the spark gap. It carries very low current so it won’t kill you but like a car spark plug it will give you a wake up call. So my advice before buying a bunch of parts is check/clean the ground connections. Also you might want to clean the spark electrode rod with a little steel wool to removed any corrosion from sitting in the flame field for hundreds of hours. Thank you so much for this video and taking that leap to find a compatible replacement igniter. Oh, just remembered - don’t change/bend the electrodes attempting to narrow the spark gap - it works don’t fix it. Thanks again for the great video. Kirk/Fabtec

[@vicentedelrio3079]

THAKNS

[@MarkGMCrosby]

Brilliant.
I replaced my RM2562 original controller board with the Micro P-711 ($150CAD) (this gives a little extra cooling control over any Dometic Control Board) but I still wasn't getting any ignition. I could hear the solenoid open and was getting propane at the burner but no spark from the sparking electrode (although I could light the flame with a match) eventually the fridge would reach the cold temperature but was unable to relight itself when required.
Ordered the 91504 Universal Ignition Control ($99CAD) as shown in this video and wired up as shown in this video;
1- remove the electrode lead from the Model 697 and put at the top of the 91504 Universal Ignition Control,
2- take the yellow lead coming back from the solenoid and attach it to the right most pin on the 91504 Universal Ignition Control,
3- take an earth from the protective earth and attach it the left most pin on the 91504 Universal Ignition Control.

[@andrewsandoval1736]

After completing this I received an email from Dometic about our phone call. They said I would need a newer control board integrated for an ingniter and a new electrode that will work as the electrode and thermocouple, then remove the thermocouple from the system.
I did not have this information at the time because none of the newer electrode integrated boards showed to be compatible with the RM3862 and this was an easy alternative. I still have my thermocouple in the system. I needed it working asap and it is. Hope this helps.

[@93blacksrv]

Thanks dude. My fridge is functional now

[@andrewsandoval1736]

Glad I could help

[@donaldduck6414]

Did they tell you which control board was the replacement and compatible with your model? I have a Dometic RM2652 the same part that went out.

[@suegarland7226]

i have the same fridge and the igniter keeps flicking when the fridge is already lit. would this be caused by the same unit and would replacing the same part correct this?

[@fukenbiker]

ua-cam.com/video/jggTqzvOdv8/v-deo.htmlsi=15TEzfWmlNHfB_g3
I also have replaced the igniter plus thermocouple. I watched your video first. After finishing I made my own video and wanted to share what I learned. The parts from Amazon were functional. But be careful about sheet metal and any other ground when routing the thin wire to the electrode. It is not high voltage.
edit:
it is high voltage!
Right? but its insulation is too thin, and will spark right through to the nearest ground!