Great video, you make it look so easy compared to the others on UA-cam, they really struggle with it! This should help a lot of them out that haven't changed a Frantz before, hope to see some install videos on your trucks.
I’m extremely happy to get the stamp of approval from someone who is so knowledgeable on these things, would you have done anything different than what I showed on the video, I should have mentioned the core seal on the new frantz vs the old frantz. are you the same guy on BITOG
@@frugallandlord6974 Yes, I post there in bypass filter section, I am far from an expert though, a lot of reading during the pandemic is where I started, still learning something new. I can't think of anything I would have done different, you made a very good video. With those old Frantz seals, I would use old electrical tape centers in your tp and see if it will seal before install, Ralph has a good mod with the washer if not. You have to take the screens out if you plan on drilling out the restrictor, all hell will break loose if the drill bit gets tangled up in the screens, or so I have read!
@@JimmyJames351 More great advice, thank you for warning me on taking the screens out before drilling the outlet port, I bet I wouldn’t have thought of that, I was thinking about using your bench top filter idea with one of those oil suction pumps to filter my motorcycles and lawnmower oil, not sure if it would be worth it but it would be fun to try it.
@@JimmyJames351 I cant see any difference whether the orifice is at the inlet or outlet. Gulf Coast juniors and the Jackmaster Classic are at the outlet. Also all of the old canister filters like the flat head Ford V8 canister filter I converted to use Scott 1000. I bypassed the orifice in the Ford canister filter by useing a self tapping hollow bolt in the bottom. The Ford orifice is in the center tube. I drilled out the outlet orifice on the Jackmaster and put a orifice at the inlet. When you ordered a Frantz with the transmission adapter or the 2 port sandwich adapter in the old days the Frantz came with no orifice. It was a bitch removing the seal that holds down the screens. Probably best to use the standard size orifice in cold weather. The standard size since the 1920s is 1/16 inch. Frantz has had a tough time over the years deciding whether to put the orifice at the inlet or outlet. I had trouble with the Jackmaster Classic heating up. I think I might have had a part the toilet paper pushes down against upside down. Its shaped like a wagon wheel. The Australian Jackmaster Classic has no screens like the Frantz. When I used the Frantz they used 2 ply with a 1 1/2 inch core. There were no Frantz paper or Scott 1000.
Sometimes it looks like the Frantz cant drain at shut down but it does. I wouldnt give up on the fill cap too soon. Ive never had trouble with them draining at shut down except with a few sandwich adapters like with the Ford diesel tractor. The filter has a tubeless tire valve.
Frantz went from putting the orifice at the inlet to the outlet then back to the inlet.It doesnt matter. The Gulf Coast junior was one of my favorite top loaders. It was designed by a big Frantz dealer when Frantzs went out of production He put the orifice in the outlet. He replaced the Frantz diesel filters with a big roll paper towel filter. Frantz had a 2 a 3 and a 4 roll model. They never came back.
Gulf Coast filters equip engines such as locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs. When the owner passed away the top salesman didnt want to deal with the little filters. The Jackmaster Classic is similar. There always seems to be a similar choice.
@@ralphwood8818 I’m surprised bypassed filters are not more popular, I guess oil is cheaper to just replace often enough and engine’s still last a very long time.
@@frugallandlord6974I remember when it was common to see the big Cummins Fleetguard and the Luberfiners bolted to the side of truck cabs. Cummins claimed an 80 percent engine life increase using them. Then people started thinking they were only for dirty conditions like dump trucks and concrete mixer trucks. The big chrome plated Luberfiners with Peterbilt labels ended up out behind the shop in the metal scrap. I drove for a guy that wouldnt put a truck on the road without a Luberfiner bypass filter.
Without the frantz my OCI was about 12k on my vehicles, with the frantz you need to add nearly a quart of oil when you change the roll, so it would be like a gradual oil change if I never drain the oil, I haven’t nailed down the toilet paper roll chance intervals yet but right now I’m going with between 4K and 5k.
@@frugallandlord6974 my father did as you plan to do, today I'm a retired HD Mech. Why, well there was always a engine in the workshop, today I know why, oil that was useless, the base oil is oil, never goes away, but the additives, be it detergents, viscosity additives, etc have broke down doing their jobs. To other fellow had them on his two cars, I visited him one time when he was working on a TP change, he asked if I'd help him change a valve cover gskt on a slant 6, on removal I've yet to see a engine with so much sludge, I asked him about changes, he said he doesn't change, he just adds, if I recall about a qrt. every 1000. My saying on oil changes, " Oil changes dre expensive, only one thing more expensive, no oil changes". I drive a diesel, never seen 7500K , a TDI, never seen 6K, a 5cyl Volvo never seen 5K, All are over 350K and the diesels never get black oil, the Volvo has color but not extreme, WHY ? the oil hasn't lost its additives, and the engine is clean. I've worked in a engine shop pre retiring, never did a worn out engine, lots of abused engines, air filters, no timely oil changes, lack of valve settings. I use the best oil, not always synthetic, but get it in 5 gal buckets on sale, with rebates, change it lots, even installed the quik drain valves. Worked at a Cummins shop, they recommend Valvoline, why, they formulate oil to clean the engine, our whole world changed with EGR, so did the repair frequencies, eng temps went up, oils don't last. The million mile engines are those that get Coolant, oil changes, hot weather hauls, dusty hauls, extreme cold get more frequent changes, off road we do 200-250 hr changes, ond off road lots of equipment, trucks have bypass filter like a Frantz. The Cat in the Alberta Tar sands get 40-50 K Hrs on engine if not overheated, their rads are mostly roof mounted on Dozers re keeping rads cool. That's my experience with Frantz, all in the sandbox of learning in a workshop with a cheap dad and no timely oil changes. Went to apprenticeship at Canfor, in the greasy pit, changed oil, greased for over a year, so I'm not into wore out stuff due to oil cheapness, in fact I tell people Mfg. says 10K do 5K, as they advertise not how long you will drive it, but which costs less, and Toyota just did a out of court Class action re long change intervals, and seized piston rings, trashed engines. So each to his own, see you at the rebuild shop.
In the 60s I normally changed the Frantz every 2000 miles and added a quart of Standard Delo 100 30W. I dont drain the oil. I did drain the oil one time and replaced a head gasket on the Rambler. The Australian Jackmaster Classic gets the toilet paper changed every 6.000 miles and a new quart of Walmart synthetic 10 30 is added. I dont know much about oil. I know enough about oil filters to be dangerous. The Pontiac had 140.000 miles on it when I got it. It has 207.000 miles on it now I havent drained the oil yet.
@@ralphwood8818 I'm just saying, take a valve cover of, if you see sludge, even a yellow varnish, know your detergents /additives are gone. Oil is dirt cheap compared to engines, I 100% agree filter the oil, in fact I've got a filter cutter for spin ones, can ones are easy, I look at the accordion. Treat your cars, change it's blood, treat it like you do your blood, take samples of both, change what it takes on both for your health, and your engines, trans, diffs, radiators, only God is eternal, the rest has expirey dates.
@@ralphwood8818 look up Cummins, Valvoline development, I've used the Valvoline on Diesels, Gas engines when I can get my hands on it cheaper, rebates, love my clean engines, 400 Miles on a 2004 Duramax shortly, still no black oil, yes brown, 2003 VW TDI 320 M, runs strong, done a turbo, cooked oil in housing, 2004 Volvo 5 cyl 2.5 286 KM all have had oil changes at 1/2 of factory recommended , why, I've been paid to fix engines that suffered from lack of timely changes, non flat wore out, all neglected out.
The old Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters were great for installing bypass filters. The problem is they didnt work so well on small engines plus the sandwich adapter had to fit the filter mount. The Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter has different bushings so they will fit most small engine filter mounts. A adapter plate for the bigger Chevy mounts. I had converted the 2 port to a 1 port and returned the clean oil to the oil fill extension. Converted it back to a 2 port. Ran both hoses to a Australian Jackmaster Classic with no orifices. I had planned to drill a 1/8 hole in the adapter near the spring loaded valve to let the filter drain at shut down. It turns out I had already drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it. Ran it long enough to heat up and fill the Jackmaster. Checked it in a couple of hours and it had drained. Now the clean oil goes to the inlet of the full flow filter instead of to the oil fill neck. The sandwich adapter takes a 3/4 16 thread filter such as many Fords and Toyota filters. I got mine fron Jegs. Summit has them.
Yeah after looking at how they work I would use a single port if I had to use one and return the oil to an zero pressure fitting like the oil cap or oil pan.
@@frugallandlord6974 I prefer the 2 port sandwiches adapters with both hoses hooked up to the Jackmaster Classic. I have had problems with the spring loaded bypass valve holding the oil in the bypass filter. I think I might have solved that by drilling a hole in the adapter so the oil can bypass the relief valve at shut down. The Jackmaster Classic drained perfectly in less than 2 bours. The Frantz would probably drain but Im not going to install a Frantz to test it. I drove 20 miles with the sandwich adapter and the .045 orifice in the Jackmaster. The Jackmaster was just starting to warm up. I was getting maximum filtration. It is 100 degrees F here in the Dallas.area. That wont work this winter. I will have to leave the orifice out year around or put a valve in the inlet to control the flow.
@@frugallandlord6974 You guys got me thinking about Frantz oil cleaners again. When I used the Frantz toilet paper fit. The.toilet paper core fit the tube. The oil pressure pushed the core down against the.core seal. Now its more complicated. Putting the toilet paper on the base then pushing the canister down on the base is a good idea. Unfortunately most Frantz users I see on UA-cam push the toilet paper in too far. Then the oil pressure might not be able to push the core down against the core seal. The best place for the ring is in the trash. When they started using the ring I started tossing them. Looks like.they abandoned that bad idea.
@@frugallandlord6974 When you talk about the old type Frantz I think about the 1963 model Frantz I put on my Rambler American. It had no wire ring in thd bottom and had the same seal. Not sure when they came up with that useless ring. I tossed them in the trash. They were probably trying to make the filters idiot resistant for people that use junk paper.
In the old days when we used soft 2 ply you knew everything was good when you changed it the core was a half an inch higher than the tissue paper. All of the old paper had a 1 1/2 inch core.
That’s why I thought having the restrictor orifice on the outlet port would be better, because on startup and especially in cold weather you would have tremendous pressure on the roll, maybe enough to force particles all the way through the roll, just thinking out loud 🧐
Yeah many of them will drain out by themselves without help, I wasn’t sure because my return line is located above the filter at the oil fill cap, I was unsure if the oil would return back to the supply port which I have connected at the oil pressure sensor. Thanks for stopping by.😀
@@frugallandlord6974 The old Motor Guard on the 390 engine on the F250 drains completely at shut down. The orifice is at the top of the filter. The old Motor Guards filtered from the bottom up. On the Ford the oil returns about the same level as the bottom of the Motor Guard. The pressure point is well below the filter. The F250 has a place for a second battery. Perfect place for bypass filters. The 76 is a classic now.
@@frugallandlord6974 you have it figured out. When I used the Frantzs the core fit the tube so tight it sometimes stayed on the tube and had to be peeled off. I have long nosed pliers to remove the used paper from the Jackmaster. The factory paper is in a bag with a pull ring. The Jackmaster has no center tube. The name Jackmaster comes from when they made jacks.
No way in hell im going to unhook a hose and let it drain over night. I would forget about it and head for town with the hose dragging. I like the Jackmaster Classic idea of an optional air fitting and pushing the oil back into the engine. They recommend a hand air pump. I use a cigarette lighter air pump with a gauge on the old Ford diesel tractor. It has the Perma Cool 189 Sandwich adapter.
@@ralphwood8818 I will try next roll change without unhooking the hose, I didn’t think it would drain back through the oil feed port by the filter but I think it does, if there is oil left in the center tube it shouldn’t matter, but I definitely liked how it didn’t spill a single drop of oil.
Accidentally stumbled onto Jalopy Journal. The subject was on Frantz oil filters. Its the same old story. Frantz owners that have used the Frantz many years. Then you have the bs stories such as condensation makes the paper plug up the oil passages. Toilet paper has too much acid in it to use it for oil filters Toilet paper breaks down in a septic tank. I agree with that. I wouldnt want to use toilet paper that is too acidic to use in my car engine
A lot of people are convinced that the paper will fall apart, yet they have no evidence of this ever happening, I have no problems with people giving opinions but the people who speak as if their amateur opinion is absolute fact, that bothers me a little, although I’m sure I have been guilty of that at times 🤪
So many people believe that the toilet paper will come apart, there has never been someone say first hand that toilet paper has ever disintegrated in an engine, that I am aware of at least, I believe people have actually used these as coolant filters, although I don’t really think it would be worth it for coolant.
Thats another bs story that come with toilet paper filters. ( I heard about this guy that knows someone that got toilet paper in his oil.) When I set up at flea markets I heard it all. One guy commented he keeps a Frantz on a shelf to remind him of all the engines he and his friends have ruined using a Frantz. One guy told me so much toilet paper was getting in the oil Frantz has been outlawed in Texas. About the best story is a Amsoil dealer that went to change his Frantz and the Frantz was empty. The whole roll had dissolved and was somewhere in the engine. Of course Amsoil filters dont come apart in oil.
One of my Frantz customers had a garage overhaul his engine. He took it back because it was missing. He was told tiny bits of toilet paper had gotten in the valve guides and caused the valves to stick open when they saw the Frantz. I told him to tell the SOBs to get the clearances right. He took it back a couple of times before they did it right.
@@frugallandlord6974 I did a fleet of mostly Ford Powerstrokes when the 6.0s first came out. I was sweating it. A big name Dallas Texas attorney on TV was saying if you bought a 6.0 Powerstroke give me a call. A automotive expert on TV said Ford went from the best engine they ever put in a truck the 7.3 to the worse engine they ever put in a truck the 6.0. I never got a complaint. It turns out the 6.0 cant tolorate the conventional system of allowing the oil get dirty then draining it. I wasnt too thrilled with a lubrication guy supervising me. I needed a lot of makeup oil for the big Gulf Coast filters. They brought me Walmart 15W 40. They said oil is oil. LOL.
One advantage I had with my first Frantz in 1963 was the Rambler was almost new. All It had to do was clean the oil. With a older car the oil is cleaning the engine and making the Frantz need more filter changes. I see a advertisement that shows the oil after it goes thru the filters and comes out looking new. That dont work on a car. Very misleading.
Very good point when installing it on a high mileage vehicle you might need to change the roll more frequently at first until your engine is cleaned up a bit.😀
Actually the core seal is the same as my first 1963 model. There were a few models that had a rubber o ring in them. It didnt matter with the old 1 1/2 inch cores.
@@frugallandlord6974 I have saved used toilet paper cores. Split them so they fit inside the new cores. That will keep the cores round. Experiment to see if you need more than one. You could also come up with a flat seal. The seal doesnt need to cut into the paper with firm paper.
@@ralphwood8818 thank you I have cut one old tp core diagonally on the seam, that makes it easy to fit inside without making a big gap, the old sky filters I have already have a flat gasket on the bottom are you proposing taking that off and adding a different gasket?
Im talking about the core seal that cuts into the paper around the core. It is almost too small for the larger cores. The old Motor Guards and the Jackmaster Classic use a flat seal. The Jackmaster Classic core seal is 1 15/16 inch. I would put something flat on top of the stock Frantz core seal. I have seen toilet paper with a.2 inch core. That might be coming next.
@@ralphwood8818 I like the core seal that cuts into the paper on the new style Frantz that I have installed, it seems like a far superior way to seal the core.
@@frugallandlord6974 About 1985 I was set up at the Denton Texas flea market selling Frantz oil cleaners. Or at least trying to sell them. A elderly couple showed me their 53 Chevy they bought new and put a Frantz on it. The 53 Frantz was a Frantz canister like yours with a hole in the center. It took a roll of 2 ply and went inside the larger Chevy canister. A trucker pulled off the highway.. He said come and look at mine. He had two Frantz 3 stackers. He said he gets a 6 pack of Safeway Truly fine toilet paper to service them. A guy stopped and told me so much toilet paper was getting in the oil they had outlawed Frantzs in Texas. Toilet paper gets stronger in motor oil. You expect to hear a few I heard about stories.
@@frugallandlord6974 You understand how things work. The Frantz can be a problem for some people. Some are still trying to service the Frantz like we did when toilet paper fit. You cant force an over size roll of 1000 sheet in like we did the softer 2 ply. Not good to push the shorter paper in too far. Thats a good idea putting the shorter paper on the base.I would give the center a extra push.
If you have a problem with the Frantz it will be a poor seal at the core. The Australian Jackmaster Classic has no center tube. They depend on the 1 and 15/16 inch core seal and the toilet paper being pushed down hard against it. They require a firm roll or the Jackmaster Classic paper. They use high quality Australian toilet paper in a sock
Great video, you make it look so easy compared to the others on UA-cam, they really struggle with it! This should help a lot of them out that haven't changed a Frantz before, hope to see some install videos on your trucks.
I’m extremely happy to get the stamp of approval from someone who is so knowledgeable on these things, would you have done anything different than what I showed on the video, I should have mentioned the core seal on the new frantz vs the old frantz. are you the same guy on BITOG
@@frugallandlord6974 Yes, I post there in bypass filter section, I am far from an expert though, a lot of reading during the pandemic is where I started, still learning something new. I can't think of anything I would have done different, you made a very good video. With those old Frantz seals, I would use old electrical tape centers in your tp and see if it will seal before install, Ralph has a good mod with the washer if not. You have to take the screens out if you plan on drilling out the restrictor, all hell will break loose if the drill bit gets tangled up in the screens, or so I have read!
@@JimmyJames351 More great advice, thank you for warning me on taking the screens out before drilling the outlet port, I bet I wouldn’t have thought of that, I was thinking about using your bench top filter idea with one of those oil suction pumps to filter my motorcycles and lawnmower oil, not sure if it would be worth it but it would be fun to try it.
@@JimmyJames351 I cant see any difference whether the orifice is at the inlet or outlet. Gulf Coast juniors and the Jackmaster Classic are at the outlet. Also all of the old canister filters like the flat head Ford V8 canister filter I converted to use Scott 1000. I bypassed the orifice in the Ford canister filter by useing a self tapping hollow bolt in the bottom. The Ford orifice is in the center tube. I drilled out the outlet orifice on the Jackmaster and put a orifice at the inlet. When you ordered a Frantz with the transmission adapter or the 2 port sandwich adapter in the old days the Frantz came with no orifice. It was a bitch removing the seal that holds down the screens. Probably best to use the standard size orifice in cold weather. The standard size since the 1920s is 1/16 inch. Frantz has had a tough time over the years deciding whether to put the orifice at the inlet or outlet. I had trouble with the Jackmaster Classic heating up. I think I might have had a part the toilet paper pushes down against upside down. Its shaped like a wagon wheel. The Australian Jackmaster Classic has no screens like the Frantz. When I used the Frantz they used 2 ply with a 1 1/2 inch core. There were no Frantz paper or Scott 1000.
Sometimes it looks like the Frantz cant drain at shut down but it does. I wouldnt give up on the fill cap too soon. Ive never had trouble with them draining at shut down except with a few sandwich adapters like with the Ford diesel tractor. The filter has a tubeless tire valve.
Frantz went from putting the orifice at the inlet to the outlet then back to the inlet.It doesnt matter. The Gulf Coast junior was one of my favorite top loaders. It was designed by a big Frantz dealer when Frantzs went out of production He put the orifice in the outlet. He replaced the Frantz diesel filters with a big roll paper towel filter. Frantz had a 2 a 3 and a 4 roll model. They never came back.
Gulf Coast filters equip engines such as locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs. When the owner passed away the top salesman didnt want to deal with the little filters. The Jackmaster Classic is similar. There always seems to be a similar choice.
The top salesman is now the owner.
@@ralphwood8818 I’m surprised bypassed filters are not more popular, I guess oil is cheaper to just replace often enough and engine’s still last a very long time.
@@frugallandlord6974I remember when it was common to see the big Cummins Fleetguard and the Luberfiners bolted to the side of truck cabs. Cummins claimed an 80 percent engine life increase using them. Then people started thinking they were only for dirty conditions like dump trucks and concrete mixer trucks. The big chrome plated Luberfiners with Peterbilt labels ended up out behind the shop in the metal scrap. I drove for a guy that wouldnt put a truck on the road without a Luberfiner bypass filter.
@@ralphwood8818 I wonder if there are any stories of trucks with extended engine life due to bypass oil filtration?
What is your oil change intervals, my Dad used these in the mid 60s as well as another fellow.
I've got my thoughts from all those years ago.
Without the frantz my OCI was about 12k on my vehicles, with the frantz you need to add nearly a quart of oil when you change the roll, so it would be like a gradual oil change if I never drain the oil, I haven’t nailed down the toilet paper roll chance intervals yet but right now I’m going with between 4K and 5k.
@@frugallandlord6974 my father did as you plan to do, today I'm a retired HD Mech.
Why, well there was always a engine in the workshop, today I know why, oil that was useless, the base oil is oil, never goes away, but the additives, be it detergents, viscosity additives, etc have broke down doing their jobs.
To other fellow had them on his two cars, I visited him one time when he was working on a TP change, he asked if I'd help him change a valve cover gskt on a slant 6, on removal I've yet to see a engine with so much sludge, I asked him about changes, he said he doesn't change, he just adds, if I recall about a qrt. every 1000.
My saying on oil changes, " Oil changes dre expensive, only one thing more expensive, no oil changes".
I drive a diesel, never seen 7500K , a TDI, never seen 6K, a 5cyl Volvo never seen 5K,
All are over 350K and the diesels never get black oil, the Volvo has color but not extreme, WHY ? the oil hasn't lost its additives, and the engine is clean.
I've worked in a engine shop pre retiring, never did a worn out engine, lots of abused engines, air filters, no timely oil changes, lack of valve settings.
I use the best oil, not always synthetic, but get it in 5 gal buckets on sale, with rebates, change it lots, even installed the quik drain valves.
Worked at a Cummins shop, they recommend Valvoline, why, they formulate oil to clean the engine, our whole world changed with EGR, so did the repair frequencies, eng temps went up, oils don't last.
The million mile engines are those that get Coolant, oil changes, hot weather hauls, dusty hauls, extreme cold get more frequent changes, off road we do 200-250 hr changes, ond off road lots of equipment, trucks have bypass filter like a Frantz.
The Cat in the Alberta Tar sands get
40-50 K Hrs on engine if not overheated, their rads are mostly roof mounted on Dozers re keeping rads cool.
That's my experience with Frantz, all in the sandbox of learning in a workshop with a cheap dad and no timely oil changes.
Went to apprenticeship at Canfor, in the greasy pit, changed oil, greased for over a year, so I'm not into wore out stuff due to oil cheapness, in fact I tell people Mfg. says 10K do 5K, as they advertise not how long you will drive it, but which costs less, and Toyota just did a out of court Class action re long change intervals, and seized piston rings, trashed engines.
So each to his own, see you at the rebuild shop.
In the 60s I normally changed the Frantz every 2000 miles and added a quart of Standard Delo 100 30W. I dont drain the oil. I did drain the oil one time and replaced a head gasket on the Rambler. The Australian Jackmaster Classic gets the toilet paper changed every 6.000 miles and a new quart of Walmart synthetic 10 30 is added. I dont know much about oil. I know enough about oil filters to be dangerous. The Pontiac had 140.000 miles on it when I got it. It has 207.000 miles on it now I havent drained the oil yet.
@@ralphwood8818 I'm just saying, take a valve cover of, if you see sludge, even a yellow varnish, know your detergents /additives are gone. Oil is dirt cheap compared to engines, I 100% agree filter the oil, in fact I've got a filter cutter for spin ones, can ones are easy, I look at the accordion. Treat your cars, change it's blood, treat it like you do your blood, take samples of both, change what it takes on both for your health, and your engines, trans, diffs, radiators, only God is eternal, the rest has expirey dates.
@@ralphwood8818 look up Cummins, Valvoline development, I've used the Valvoline on Diesels, Gas engines when I can get my hands on it cheaper, rebates, love my clean engines, 400 Miles on a 2004 Duramax shortly, still no black oil, yes brown, 2003 VW TDI 320 M, runs strong, done a turbo, cooked oil in housing, 2004 Volvo 5 cyl 2.5 286 KM all have had oil changes at 1/2 of factory recommended , why, I've been paid to fix engines that suffered from lack of timely changes, non flat wore out, all neglected out.
The old Frantz 2 port sandwich adapters were great for installing bypass filters. The problem is they didnt work so well on small engines plus the sandwich adapter had to fit the filter mount. The Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter has different bushings so they will fit most small engine filter mounts. A adapter plate for the bigger Chevy mounts. I had converted the 2 port to a 1 port and returned the clean oil to the oil fill extension. Converted it back to a 2 port. Ran both hoses to a Australian Jackmaster Classic with no orifices. I had planned to drill a 1/8 hole in the adapter near the spring loaded valve to let the filter drain at shut down. It turns out I had already drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it. Ran it long enough to heat up and fill the Jackmaster. Checked it in a couple of hours and it had drained. Now the clean oil goes to the inlet of the full flow filter instead of to the oil fill neck. The sandwich adapter takes a 3/4 16 thread filter such as many Fords and Toyota filters. I got mine fron Jegs. Summit has them.
Yeah after looking at how they work I would use a single port if I had to use one and return the oil to an zero pressure fitting like the oil cap or oil pan.
@@frugallandlord6974 I prefer the 2 port sandwiches adapters with both hoses hooked up to the Jackmaster Classic. I have had problems with the spring loaded bypass valve holding the oil in the bypass filter. I think I might have solved that by drilling a hole in the adapter so the oil can bypass the relief valve at shut down. The Jackmaster Classic drained perfectly in less than 2 bours. The Frantz would probably drain but Im not going to install a Frantz to test it. I drove 20 miles with the sandwich adapter and the .045 orifice in the Jackmaster. The Jackmaster was just starting to warm up. I was getting maximum filtration. It is 100 degrees F here in the Dallas.area. That wont work this winter. I will have to leave the orifice out year around or put a valve in the inlet to control the flow.
@@frugallandlord6974 You guys got me thinking about Frantz oil cleaners again. When I used the Frantz toilet paper fit. The.toilet paper core fit the tube. The oil pressure pushed the core down against the.core seal. Now its more complicated. Putting the toilet paper on the base then pushing the canister down on the base is a good idea. Unfortunately most Frantz users I see on UA-cam push the toilet paper in too far. Then the oil pressure might not be able to push the core down against the core seal. The best place for the ring is in the trash. When they started using the ring I started tossing them. Looks like.they abandoned that bad idea.
@@frugallandlord6974 When you talk about the old type Frantz I think about the 1963 model Frantz I put on my Rambler American. It had no wire ring in thd bottom and had the same seal. Not sure when they came up with that useless ring. I tossed them in the trash. They were probably trying to make the filters idiot resistant for people that use junk paper.
@@ralphwood8818 yeah I actually think the ring causes more problems, I guess the ones I’m calling old are the filters stamped with sky
In the old days when we used soft 2 ply you knew everything was good when you changed it the core was a half an inch higher than the tissue paper. All of the old paper had a 1 1/2 inch core.
That’s why I thought having the restrictor orifice on the outlet port would be better, because on startup and especially in cold weather you would have tremendous pressure on the roll, maybe enough to force particles all the way through the roll, just thinking out loud 🧐
Thanks...this all incorporating a qwik disconnect and overnight drain really helps.
Yeah many of them will drain out by themselves without help, I wasn’t sure because my return line is located above the filter at the oil fill cap, I was unsure if the oil would return back to the supply port which I have connected at the oil pressure sensor. Thanks for stopping by.😀
@@frugallandlord6974 The old Motor Guard on the 390 engine on the F250 drains completely at shut down. The orifice is at the top of the filter. The old Motor Guards filtered from the bottom up. On the Ford the oil returns about the same level as the bottom of the Motor Guard. The pressure point is well below the filter. The F250 has a place for a second battery. Perfect place for bypass filters. The 76 is a classic now.
@@frugallandlord6974 you have it figured out. When I used the Frantzs the core fit the tube so tight it sometimes stayed on the tube and had to be peeled off. I have long nosed pliers to remove the used paper from the Jackmaster. The factory paper is in a bag with a pull ring. The Jackmaster has no center tube. The name Jackmaster comes from when they made jacks.
No way in hell im going to unhook a hose and let it drain over night. I would forget about it and head for town with the hose dragging. I like the Jackmaster Classic idea of an optional air fitting and pushing the oil back into the engine. They recommend a hand air pump. I use a cigarette lighter air pump with a gauge on the old Ford diesel tractor. It has the Perma Cool 189 Sandwich adapter.
@@ralphwood8818 I will try next roll change without unhooking the hose, I didn’t think it would drain back through the oil feed port by the filter but I think it does, if there is oil left in the center tube it shouldn’t matter, but I definitely liked how it didn’t spill a single drop of oil.
Accidentally stumbled onto Jalopy Journal. The subject was on Frantz oil filters. Its the same old story. Frantz owners that have used the Frantz many years. Then you have the bs stories such as condensation makes the paper plug up the oil passages. Toilet paper has too much acid in it to use it for oil filters
Toilet paper breaks down in a septic tank. I agree with that. I wouldnt want to use toilet paper that is too acidic to use in my car engine
A lot of people are convinced that the paper will fall apart, yet they have no evidence of this ever happening, I have no problems with people giving opinions but the people who speak as if their amateur opinion is absolute fact, that bothers me a little, although I’m sure I have been guilty of that at times 🤪
I hear you. They pay no attention to the guys that have used the filters for 60 years. What do they know.
They sold these in NZ years ago, stopped selling them because any condensation in the oil causes the paper to disintegrate blocking oil galleries .😢
So many people believe that the toilet paper will come apart, there has never been someone say first hand that toilet paper has ever disintegrated in an engine, that I am aware of at least, I believe people have actually used these as coolant filters, although I don’t really think it would be worth it for coolant.
Thats another bs story that come with toilet paper filters. ( I heard about this guy that knows someone that got toilet paper in his oil.) When I set up at flea markets I heard it all. One guy commented he keeps a Frantz on a shelf to remind him of all the engines he and his friends have ruined using a Frantz. One guy told me so much toilet paper was getting in the oil Frantz has been outlawed in Texas. About the best story is a Amsoil dealer that went to change his Frantz and the Frantz was empty. The whole roll had dissolved and was somewhere in the engine. Of course Amsoil filters dont come apart in oil.
One of my Frantz customers had a garage overhaul his engine. He took it back because it was missing. He was told tiny bits of toilet paper had gotten in the valve guides and caused the valves to stick open when they saw the Frantz. I told him to tell the SOBs to get the clearances right. He took it back a couple of times before they did it right.
@@ralphwood8818 yeah, they know they screwed up but they have to blame it on something else, I guess they think people won’t notice their mistake.
@@frugallandlord6974 I did a fleet of mostly Ford Powerstrokes when the 6.0s first came out. I was sweating it. A big name Dallas Texas attorney on TV was saying if you bought a 6.0 Powerstroke give me a call. A automotive expert on TV said Ford went from the best engine they ever put in a truck the 7.3 to the worse engine they ever put in a truck the 6.0. I never got a complaint. It turns out the 6.0 cant tolorate the conventional system of allowing the oil get dirty then draining it. I wasnt too thrilled with a lubrication guy supervising me. I needed a lot of makeup oil for the big Gulf Coast filters. They brought me Walmart 15W 40. They said oil is oil. LOL.
One advantage I had with my first Frantz in 1963 was the Rambler was almost new. All It had to do was clean the oil. With a older car the oil is cleaning the engine and making the Frantz need more filter changes. I see a advertisement that shows the oil after it goes thru the filters and comes out looking new. That dont work on a car. Very misleading.
Very good point when installing it on a high mileage vehicle you might need to change the roll more frequently at first until your engine is cleaned up a bit.😀
Actually the core seal is the same as my first 1963 model. There were a few models that had a rubber o ring in them. It didnt matter with the old 1 1/2 inch cores.
Thinking of getting some rubber o rings to put around the base of the old sky filters to help center and seal the core, is that a good idea?
@@frugallandlord6974 I have saved used toilet paper cores. Split them so they fit inside the new cores. That will keep the cores round. Experiment to see if you need more than one. You could also come up with a flat seal. The seal doesnt need to cut into the paper with firm paper.
@@ralphwood8818 thank you I have cut one old tp core diagonally on the seam, that makes it easy to fit inside without making a big gap, the old sky filters I have already have a flat gasket on the bottom are you proposing taking that off and adding a different gasket?
Im talking about the core seal that cuts into the paper around the core. It is almost too small for the larger cores. The old Motor Guards and the Jackmaster Classic use a flat seal. The Jackmaster Classic core seal is 1 15/16 inch. I would put something flat on top of the stock Frantz core seal. I have seen toilet paper with a.2 inch core. That might be coming next.
@@ralphwood8818 I like the core seal that cuts into the paper on the new style Frantz that I have installed, it seems like a far superior way to seal the core.
Interesting.....hugs
Yeah definitely 🧐😜
@@frugallandlord6974 About 1985 I was set up at the Denton Texas flea market selling Frantz oil cleaners. Or at least trying to sell them. A elderly couple showed me their 53 Chevy they bought new and put a Frantz on it. The 53 Frantz was a Frantz canister like yours with a hole in the center. It took a roll of 2 ply and went inside the larger Chevy canister. A trucker pulled off the highway.. He said come and look at mine. He had two Frantz 3 stackers. He said he gets a 6 pack of Safeway Truly fine toilet paper to service them. A guy stopped and told me so much toilet paper was getting in the oil they had outlawed Frantzs in Texas. Toilet paper gets stronger in motor oil. You expect to hear a few I heard about stories.
@@frugallandlord6974 You understand how things work. The Frantz can be a problem for some people. Some are still trying to service the Frantz like we did when toilet paper fit. You cant force an over size roll of 1000 sheet in like we did the softer 2 ply. Not good to push the shorter paper in too far. Thats a good idea putting the shorter paper on the base.I would give the center a extra push.
If you have a problem with the Frantz it will be a poor seal at the core. The Australian Jackmaster Classic has no center tube. They depend on the 1 and 15/16 inch core seal and the toilet paper being pushed down hard against it. They require a firm roll or the Jackmaster Classic paper. They use high quality Australian toilet paper in a sock