Nice work and pattern. In the video you mention using 2% shrink factor. For aluminum castings, I think you'll find that applying 1.3% will produce more dimensionally accurate castings. It's a fairly important detail for a technical part like an engine cranckcase. Good luck with the rest of the project. Best, Kelly
Thank you for the kind words and advice, your video’s definitely inspired me to go the lost foam route. I’ll see if I can make it work with 2% as it’s already all prepped and plastered to be cast. Otherwise for the next attempt should I need it I’ll shrink it down by 0.7%. (Fingers crossed)
Nominally, 3/16 per foot. There are special *shrink rules* done for this, and other levels of foundry-shrinkage for various alloys and metals. Note: I *have* a 3/16 shrink rule. I’ve done a fair number of foundry patterns.
@@dennisyoung4631 For most casting alloys 5/32" per foot shrink rule is broadly the standard which is 1.3%. Shinkage varies by alloy because the melt/freeze point of alloys vary and this is the driving factor in how much an alloy shrinks more so than composition of the alloy because the shrinkage goes as the coeficient of linear thermal expansion (13 microstrain, .000013 in/in/F for aluminum) but only once the aluminum has become solid, and there can be a 100 degrere range from where an alloy is completely solid versus completely liquid. A356 will be in the range of 1050-1140F whereas pure auluminum will be 1220F melt point and shrink more. A356 cools about 1000F from solidous to room temp so 1000x .000013= .013 or 1.3% Best, Kelly
This engine build is awesome. How did you get to the point of having the 3D model complete? Did you scan a set of old engine cases or did you manually measure and draw the new cases off your measurements? I'm just curious how you were able to draw up such factory looking cases. Thank you.
This all started with a scrap set of Lifan pit bike cases and a 150mm digital calliper. I taught myself how to use fusion 360 as I went, to get the basic shape I scanned the crankcase gasket and traced it to scale. Then I refined it over a 3-4 months in the evening when I had time.
Check out my video ‘a cheap and capable cnc mill’ at the start of the video you can see where I bought it and what it costs with the specs shown as well. m.ua-cam.com/video/N1iSUGOEsFE/v-deo.html
congratulations sir. I am trying to do the same. but using a 3d printer. then make the mold and burn the plastic at 650 degrees until only the mold remains to inject the aluminum. The problem is that I'm not good at designing and I don't know where I could get the stl files to achieve the impression. Would you be so kind to share your project? It would be a great help for me to get started. cheers
That sounds like a cool idea for doing the same thing differently. At this stage I am not willing to share any of my designs as I’ve put dozens of hours into drafting them and learning how to use fusion 360. I don’t want any uncontrolled copies out there, the best thing to do if you’re serious would be to buy a donor engine and some measuring equipment and start drawing. Fusion 360 is free and learning how to use it will set you up for any machining tasks you will need to undertake.
Using a 3D scanner on the existing engine would be your best bet and then printing it or machining from polystyrene on a cnc router. Does it have to be foam?
@@OddsandEndsMachining need something lightweight. Doesnt need to be that precise. 2 ideas I came up would be putting the engine in a plastic bag and then applying paper mache or industrial silicone to it, ans then using that as a negative mold. 3D scans are expensive, as well as 3D to real life, each step serveral hundred bucks
@@chrissi.enbyYT I’m pretty sure you can use most modern smart phones as 3D scanners using the forward facing camera. I think with paper mache it would be very hard to remove the ‘pattern’ unless you coated the engine in some sort of release agent.
Nice work and pattern. In the video you mention using 2% shrink factor. For aluminum castings, I think you'll find that applying 1.3% will produce more dimensionally accurate castings. It's a fairly important detail for a technical part like an engine cranckcase. Good luck with the rest of the project. Best, Kelly
Thank you for the kind words and advice, your video’s definitely inspired me to go the lost foam route. I’ll see if I can make it work with 2% as it’s already all prepped and plastered to be cast.
Otherwise for the next attempt should I need it I’ll shrink it down by 0.7%. (Fingers crossed)
Nominally, 3/16 per foot.
There are special *shrink rules* done for this, and other levels of foundry-shrinkage for various alloys and metals.
Note: I *have* a 3/16 shrink rule. I’ve done a fair number of foundry patterns.
@@dennisyoung4631 For most casting alloys 5/32" per foot shrink rule is broadly the standard which is 1.3%. Shinkage varies by alloy because the melt/freeze point of alloys vary and this is the driving factor in how much an alloy shrinks more so than composition of the alloy because the shrinkage goes as the coeficient of linear thermal expansion (13 microstrain, .000013 in/in/F for aluminum) but only once the aluminum has become solid, and there can be a 100 degrere range from where an alloy is completely solid versus completely liquid. A356 will be in the range of 1050-1140F whereas pure auluminum will be 1220F melt point and shrink more. A356 cools about 1000F from solidous to room temp so 1000x .000013= .013 or 1.3% Best,
Kelly
You are a genius. I am enjoying the video.
Thank you
Good job!
Custom v twin "Chonda" crankcase..
This will be interesting 😃
What mill are u using. Like your projects and effort
It is an Optimum Mh28v which I converted to CNC using a mixture of Chinese and Taiwanese components.
Shout out to @RotarySMP for recommending this Chanel, I am your 764th subscriber!
New subscribed from Somalia
This engine build is awesome. How did you get to the point of having the 3D model complete? Did you scan a set of old engine cases or did you manually measure and draw the new cases off your measurements? I'm just curious how you were able to draw up such factory looking cases. Thank you.
This all started with a scrap set of Lifan pit bike cases and a 150mm digital calliper. I taught myself how to use fusion 360 as I went, to get the basic shape I scanned the crankcase gasket and traced it to scale. Then I refined it over a 3-4 months in the evening when I had time.
Nice. thanks for your sharing .
can i know what is the densti of the foam ?
I couldn’t tell you but it is XPS underfloor insulation foam. A bit denser than your standard white polystyrene.
How to get design for engene?
I reverse engineered a standard lifan engine. I added width for the extra rod, that’s all there is to it.
Link to milling machine?
Check out my video ‘a cheap and capable cnc mill’ at the start of the video you can see where I bought it and what it costs with the specs shown as well.
m.ua-cam.com/video/N1iSUGOEsFE/v-deo.html
congratulations sir. I am trying to do the same. but using a 3d printer. then make the mold and burn the plastic at 650 degrees until only the mold remains to inject the aluminum.
The problem is that I'm not good at designing and I don't know where I could get the stl files to achieve the impression. Would you be so kind to share your project? It would be a great help for me to get started. cheers
That sounds like a cool idea for doing the same thing differently. At this stage I am not willing to share any of my designs as I’ve put dozens of hours into drafting them and learning how to use fusion 360. I don’t want any uncontrolled copies out there, the best thing to do if you’re serious would be to buy a donor engine and some measuring equipment and start drawing. Fusion 360 is free and learning how to use it will set you up for any machining tasks you will need to undertake.
Good afternoon. Could you share a model of the carter halves?
No not at this stage sorry, potentially at some point I might make plans available.
@@OddsandEndsMachining I will keep an eye on your project then.keeping the model in mind)))))
You can find someone with a 3D printer to whip up a holder for the vaccum nozzle. That looks painful to follow the bit around lol
Enjoyed the videos
It’s definitely on the to do list. Lucky I’ve only had to do it a couple of times so far.
Any idea how to create a styrofoam model out of an existing engine for placement testing? So the other way around lol
Using a 3D scanner on the existing engine would be your best bet and then printing it or machining from polystyrene on a cnc router. Does it have to be foam?
@@OddsandEndsMachining need something lightweight. Doesnt need to be that precise. 2 ideas I came up would be putting the engine in a plastic bag and then applying paper mache or industrial silicone to it, ans then using that as a negative mold.
3D scans are expensive, as well as 3D to real life, each step serveral hundred bucks
@@OddsandEndsMachining and thanks for responding
@@chrissi.enbyYT I’m pretty sure you can use most modern smart phones as 3D scanners using the forward facing camera.
I think with paper mache it would be very hard to remove the ‘pattern’ unless you coated the engine in some sort of release agent.
Cómo se llama ese material?
extruded polystyrene also known as XPS
como é nome dessa espuma amarelo ai
Extruded polystyrene
@@OddsandEndsMachining ok.obrigado
Hello, can you share me its 3D file ?
No can do