If this video was 20 minutes long I would still watch it just for the information you're awesome I am glad that I started following you a long time ago
Thanks for the review. I have two 600D, so was curious to the value these provide versus those. When dealing with a more powerful light like this, any measurement at less than 3m is less relevant for realistic situations, so measurements and comments at 3m or 5m would be more useful. As well, motion users will often be in around 1000 ISO and so doing some tests with a higher framerate like 240 fps on a camera that supports that is useful, as well as seeing if the is color shift when dimming down. the reality is that anything beyond a 1/4 correction when dimming is a problem and significant. Another aspect is addressing the evenness and hotspot of a reflector, and not buying into the marketing BS of a high reading in the center. If I were doing comparison reviews, I would standardize it with something like a 2m circle on a wall, measured where it is 50% falloff starting. Then you do a reading at say 4m frrom the wall, as bounced light. That takes into effect the hotspot, and provides a more balanced result at same softness. Apples to apples comparison.
All very good and practical ideas. I standardize to 1 meter simply for my light comparison tool: newlayer.com/compare-lights but you're definitely right that lights like this aren't going to be used that close. It's easy enough to calculate the 3m and 5m brightness using the laws of light falloff, but I'll try to include that with 500+ watt lights in the future. Same thing on the color shifts when dimming, because that's definitely needed. I don't really care about reflectors and only included it for fun, for a couple reasons. 1) Bare bulb is all I care about, because modifying the light can be done with a million different things. I agree it's helpful to see how included stock reflectors look, but like you said, every company just cheats to make theirs as bright as possible in the center, so I don't even bother with them anymore for the most part. 2) In my experience, unless the hotspot is insanely bad, it doesn't make a functional difference because it'll be shot through external diffusion, bounced off of something, used with as a book light, etc. all of which render subtle hot spot differences unimportant to me. I know you might disagree, but I choose to omit that test simply because I don't have time. If only UA-cam paid more... I really appreciate your comment, thanks for taking the time to leave it!
Other than V mount charging which is nice for sets dedicated in the wilderness.....I think the Godox as far as overall output is a game changer. Right now the Daylight only is about $1k on sale on B&H right now.
@@NewLayer I am only considering the Godox because their new 1200 is so amazing. They were saying how the Bi selection is full on 100% on both LED panels meaning when shifting the WB you wont lose any light overall. Not sure if its the same tech in the 600s but it seems nice to have that consistent throw as other mentioned at 3m for the 600. I love Aputure but at this point, if Godox keeps making weather resistant lights, it will force Nanlite out and give the Light Storm models a run for their money! Also the Bi 600 right now is backordered on B&H I think at 1300 but the full Daylight like I mentioned comes with everything you need in a case with a bowens mount all for 1k......total deal if you need that one light.
That's Gentle Typhoon fans @5:45 one of the quietest fan in the PC industries.The noctua A12 and Gentle typhoon are two of the top performance fans you can get.
Thanks for letting me know. I couldn't find that information even when I looked. It wasn't even in their marketing graphics, when I think it's a huge selling point.
@@NewLayer Its on page 26 of the manual, but i tested it myself and for some reason it didn't work. Another youtuber tried it also i couldn't get it to work.
@@NewLayer most definitely, because I was really torn between the two lights. Haven’t seen a more detailed review online comparing the two lights, so this video definitely bridged the gap for me. I try not to get too caught up into brand names and try to gravitate to whichever tool can get the job done. I love Apiture, I own several 300d’s, but if another company does it better for a cheaper price point, that’s where my money’s going. So thanks again for such an awesome review. I mainly want these lights to use to emulate the sunlight through the window for narrative work. Is the Godox bright enough to achieve that better than the Apiture? I noticed that you said the fresnel output is better on the Apiture. Is the Godox still powerful enough to emulate direct sunlight with the fresnel attachment?
@@parliamentpictures2217 For what you need, the M600D is perfect and will be right on par with the Aputure 600d. The only brighter options would be an Aputure 1200d Pro or the Nanlux Evoke 1200 which are WAY more expensive.
@@NewLayer thanks man I really appreciate the reply. I guess it’s like you said, it really boils down to if you want battery charging as an option, as well as weather sealing for those random and unexpected rainy shoots.
Great review! I'd really love to compare the brightness directly to the Aputure 600D but you don't provide that (here nor on your online comparison tool). Honestly, based on the measurements I've seen online at 3 meters, the Godox M600D appears to blow it out of the water. That could be all the difference when trying to push "sunlight" into a room with large windows. No one wants to have to use two Aputure 600D's and get multiple shadows from their sun....
I wish I had a 600d Pro to directly compare. What I can say is that with all my other Aputure lights, the specs they list for bare bulb lights are lower than what I have gotten in testing by 10% or so, so I think you can safely compare what I got with this light bare bulb from 1 meter with what Aputure lists + 5 or 10%, so they are identical in brightness. You are probably comparing manufacturer listed specs with their reflector attached, which can't be used to compare lights because every reflector has a different beam angle, hot spot, etc. The only way to fairly compare is bare bulb, and both lights will give you the same exact exposure using the same modifiers. Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer Did you measure by any chance the Godox M600D from 3 meters with the reflector on? I've found real specs (not manufacturer-provided specs) on the Aputure 600D from 3 meters with the reflector on.
@@lonnease6415 I did not, just from 1 meter, but based on the physics of light falloff, a light from 3 meters will be very, very close to 1/9 the brightness it was at 1 meter. So since I measured the M600D with reflector at 174,000 lux at 1 meter, it would be around 19,500 lux at 3 meters using the reflector. Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer Wow! Even if it's less than that, that's still nearly double what the Aputure 600D puts out with the reflector or with the F10 fresnel! It makes sense to me. The Aputure 600D is three years old technology now and the Godox is using 740 watts. I'm sure Aputure will come out with something bigger and better in a year or two, but until then this Godox is an amazing deal and choice for sunlight power on an indy set.
@@lonnease6415 It is but not in a meaningful way. The Godox reflector probably has a tigher beam angle and a worse hot spot, so in the center of the light circle, it's way brighter, but it could have less even falloff and dimmer edges. That's why only bare bulb measurements matter, and both lights put out a functionally identical amount of light. Anything after that is just the doing of whatever modifier you're using. If you're buying the M600D just because it's "brighter" with the stock reflector, I think you'll be disappointed because if you put that same reflector on the 600d Pro it'd be the same, it just so happens that the Aputure reflector is a different design.
I just added the aperture 600 to my cart but decided to check if there was something else, and this light makes a compelling case for me. Love GODOX photography lights but also have a couple of smaller aperture 150 so I wonder if one should stay within one brand and share accessories and app control or save a bit of money and give this one a go.
If it's just one light, I'd be tempted to pay extra for the continuity of a single brand, but especially if you don't use mobile app control often, it makes the choice a lot easier :)
@@NewLayer had a 3 day commercial shoot this week and being able to tweak the lights around a pharmaceutical manufacturing facility would have saved us loads of time indeed.
Thanks for the review, Please I have some questions for you to make my investment decision. If M300Bi is £948, and M600D is £942 will you trade off Bi for power or will you invest in M600Bi of £1574.00 over M600D of £942.00. And, with your experience, what do you think the fans on both, are they too loud for interveiw set ups. I owned couple of Godox UL due to fan. Thanks
The fans on all of them will be the same, and perfectly fine for interviews, so no worries there. If you're filming at different locations, the bi-color comes in handy because you can more easily match your light to the surrounding ambient sources. The M300Bi will be around 1.5 stops dimmer than the M600D, and the M600Bi will be about 1/2 stop dimmer than the M600D, so it's not a huge difference really. Best case scenario is to get the M600Bi for the bi-color AND brightest you can get, but the M300Bi should also be enough brightness in the vast majority of indoor situations. Hope that helps! If you pick one up, I'd greatly appreciate if you used my links :) geni.us/godoxm300bi geni.us/godoxm600bi geni.us/godoxm600d
About the ballast not being a charger.. my friend, a working professional, says he wishes Aputure kept the charger part out of their ballast and made it smaller and lighter. Usually, working professionals already have a charger for their batteries and have already figured out a way to transport it. plus, it's not practical to run such a high output fixture off of battery.
I'm sure there are people who sit on both sides of the fence. If you need to run it at 50%+ power, the batteries will drain super fast, but the cool thing about a super bright light is that you can still run it at 10% and get a lot of light, and batteries would make a lot of sense then. At least now we have options!
I don't have a 600d on hand to test, but they should be very comparable, probably within 1/3 stop of each other. At this brightness, that's really negligible.
I am testing some of the new GVM SD lights right now and they're a great upgrade over previous generations. The main thing to keep in mind is that the GVM SD600D is a 600 watt bi-color light, while this is a daylight only light, so this will be brighter, and the GVM will be close to as bright as a 300 watt light at each color. Although the new GVM lights are better than before, they are still the lowest quality build when you compare them to Godox, Nanlite, and Aputure, so they may also not be suitable for someone who uses their lights daily for a living.
@@NewLayer Solid points, indeed. Yes, I think the maximum brightness would be around ~5100K but even scientifically an overcast at around 7500K or near sunset at 2700K isn't the brightest either. You would need it to be near-max brightness at 5600K of course, but fine-tuning your color temperature to match with your natural light is a much more critical, to me at least that I might even take the light outside instead of relying on reflecting sunlight that could easily be exposed with the slightest air/wind movement. Warm regards, and if you have an input in that great light comparison website I would love to see more there as many of the new GVM ones are missing there.
@@Bo_Hazem Bi-color Vs daylight is always tough, so it just depends on what you shoot most. Good bi-color lights are the same brightness no matter what you have the color temperature set to. Best option is to just have lots and lots of lights :)
@New Layer Actually I think 300w is already an overkill to my needs, that's why getting the dual-headed GVM ST300R first and see how it performs. The SD600D might come on a later date. So yes, lots of lights is the way to go.😜
The measurements in Lux/f-stop should tell you what you need to know. If you have a 300 watt light, this one is ~1 full stop brighter. If you have a 150 watt light, this one is about 2 full stops brighter, since LED power output is almost linear. It puts out 23,600 lux bare bulb from 1 meter, which is equivalent to f/13, ISO 100, 1/50 second shutter speed. Sunlight is f/16, ISO 100, 1/125 second shutter speed, so this light is 2 stops dimmer than the daylight sun from 1 meter without any kind of modifier. Adding a 36" soft box with dual diffusion will cut about 2 stops of light. Other modifiers cut differing amounts of light, but any good modifier should list that information before buying. Hope that helps.
You can have multiple apps open yes. Unfortunately, when you minimize them too long, sometimes the lights lose connection, so it could definitely get irritating if you need that functionality.
I don't know if we'll ever get a monolight style 600 watt+ light, so they'll always have an external controller and/or ballast. The best light I can think of in that form factor is the Nanlite FS series, which I reviewed here: ua-cam.com/video/NRn84iErwQA/v-deo.html Those lights use just the head unit and a standard power cable, so they're super simple, and very affordable for the output they provide.
Unfortunately the Forza 500 is a light I've never used :( It's 500 watts Vs. 740 watts with this light, so I'd bet it's very similar, just ~1 stop dimmer or so.
Kind of hard to say since the M18 is 15-58 degree beam angle, so a fair comparison would be the M600D + stock reflector Vs. the M18 at 45 degrees. At it's widest, the M18 at 7 meters is 2,245 lux. I didn't measure the M600D at 7 meters, but based on the physics of light falloff, it'd come in around 2% the brightness at 1 meter, which is 3,480 lux. Those numbers could be off very slightly since it's estimated using math rather than directly measured, but long story short, the M600d is about 1/2 stop brighter than an M18. Keep in mind, because the stock reflector of the M600D is slightly more focused around 45 degrees Vs. the M18 at 58 degrees, it will give it a higher measurement, so in reality, they are probably very, very close to being equal. Hope that helps.
The Forza 500 is kind of in a weird area by itself. Everything else doubles previous generations in light output, but that light is 500 watts Vs. this one at 740 watts, so I'd expect this to be ~1 stop brighter. Don't quote me though, I've never been able to test the Forza 500.
The 500 uses a dated design, if you notice all spot lights work best with one crank dial. The 500 has two on each side making handling a pain. They fixed this issue with the larger Forza lights having only one crank lever on one side. As you can see here the Godox has already implemented this feature while at this point Forza is giving away their 500's to clear out space. You can buy a 500x2 kit for the same price as 1 720 Daylight from Forza. Convenience comes with a price as always.
Not to put Godox down or anything cause I think they make some decent products but this looks like a straight up rip off of the Apurture 600d even down to the case. Not sure how they get away with that…
I somewhat agree, but there's only so much you can do/change when it's done so well or in a pretty standard form factor already. I feel like they went through and tweaked some things, but they're not going to change something if it makes for a worse product, haha. And since they're budget oriented, the main thing they'll do is remove features, like battery charging.
@@NewLayer great review by the way. i'd love to get my hands on one of these, not least since all my other lights are godox, but a reliably TONK one at this brightness would be a blessing.
What do you think? Are you impressed? I feel like I'll be coming up with excuses to pull this light out in the future 😅
Wow! Seems like a great light! Thanks for the thorough review and great to see you again 😉
It's definitely impressive, especially if all you've ever used are ~150 watt lights!
If this video was 20 minutes long I would still watch it just for the information you're awesome I am glad that I started following you a long time ago
I appreciate that! I'm glad my videos have been helpful :)
For real hes Caleb pike level in terms of reviewing gear with his own style.
@@A1Bokeh Thanks, much appreciated. Caleb is an OG and has only gotten better with every video he posts.
Thanks for the review. I have two 600D, so was curious to the value these provide versus those. When dealing with a more powerful light like this, any measurement at less than 3m is less relevant for realistic situations, so measurements and comments at 3m or 5m would be more useful. As well, motion users will often be in around 1000 ISO and so doing some tests with a higher framerate like 240 fps on a camera that supports that is useful, as well as seeing if the is color shift when dimming down. the reality is that anything beyond a 1/4 correction when dimming is a problem and significant. Another aspect is addressing the evenness and hotspot of a reflector, and not buying into the marketing BS of a high reading in the center. If I were doing comparison reviews, I would standardize it with something like a 2m circle on a wall, measured where it is 50% falloff starting. Then you do a reading at say 4m frrom the wall, as bounced light. That takes into effect the hotspot, and provides a more balanced result at same softness. Apples to apples comparison.
All very good and practical ideas. I standardize to 1 meter simply for my light comparison tool: newlayer.com/compare-lights but you're definitely right that lights like this aren't going to be used that close. It's easy enough to calculate the 3m and 5m brightness using the laws of light falloff, but I'll try to include that with 500+ watt lights in the future.
Same thing on the color shifts when dimming, because that's definitely needed.
I don't really care about reflectors and only included it for fun, for a couple reasons. 1) Bare bulb is all I care about, because modifying the light can be done with a million different things. I agree it's helpful to see how included stock reflectors look, but like you said, every company just cheats to make theirs as bright as possible in the center, so I don't even bother with them anymore for the most part. 2) In my experience, unless the hotspot is insanely bad, it doesn't make a functional difference because it'll be shot through external diffusion, bounced off of something, used with as a book light, etc. all of which render subtle hot spot differences unimportant to me. I know you might disagree, but I choose to omit that test simply because I don't have time. If only UA-cam paid more...
I really appreciate your comment, thanks for taking the time to leave it!
Super handy, thanks! Godox make some wicked fixtures at great prices. This looks like a great low budget Aputure alt.
Happy to help, it's a really great light overall!
Other than V mount charging which is nice for sets dedicated in the wilderness.....I think the Godox as far as overall output is a game changer. Right now the Daylight only is about $1k on sale on B&H right now.
I've seen some killer deals for the holidays on a lot of lights. Now is the time to pick some up if you can for sure!
@@NewLayer I am only considering the Godox because their new 1200 is so amazing. They were saying how the Bi selection is full on 100% on both LED panels meaning when shifting the WB you wont lose any light overall. Not sure if its the same tech in the 600s but it seems nice to have that consistent throw as other mentioned at 3m for the 600. I love Aputure but at this point, if Godox keeps making weather resistant lights, it will force Nanlite out and give the Light Storm models a run for their money! Also the Bi 600 right now is backordered on B&H I think at 1300 but the full Daylight like I mentioned comes with everything you need in a case with a bowens mount all for 1k......total deal if you need that one light.
Great review as always. Wondering if this is close to aputure 600D's weatherized feature. Cam it be used in slight unfavorable conditions
As far as I can tell, there's no listed certification for being water/dust resistant, so if that's a must for you, that might be a deal breaker!
Another banger! I really want this
Thanks! And understandable, it's a beast, but doesn't take up all that much room!
That's Gentle Typhoon fans @5:45 one of the quietest fan in the PC industries.The noctua A12 and Gentle typhoon are two of the top performance fans you can get.
^ This guy fans! Thanks for sharing :)
Great review and breakdown. 👍
Glad you liked it bro, thanks for stopping by!
The manual did state that it can charge just 1 battery (on the side with the yellow battery remover)
Thanks for letting me know. I couldn't find that information even when I looked. It wasn't even in their marketing graphics, when I think it's a huge selling point.
@@NewLayer Its on page 26 of the manual, but i tested it myself and for some reason it didn't work. Another youtuber tried it also i couldn't get it to work.
@@akpevbe Weird, I wonder if they planned to add it but never did, then just didn't update the manual?!
@@NewLayer I sent godox a message already and just waiting on their reply
Great review. I’ll just get 2 of each. That way I can save money abs still charge my V mounts on location.
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
@@NewLayer most definitely, because I was really torn between the two lights. Haven’t seen a more detailed review online comparing the two lights, so this video definitely bridged the gap for me. I try not to get too caught up into brand names and try to gravitate to whichever tool can get the job done. I love Apiture, I own several 300d’s, but if another company does it better for a cheaper price point, that’s where my money’s going. So thanks again for such an awesome review. I mainly want these lights to use to emulate the sunlight through the window for narrative work. Is the Godox bright enough to achieve that better than the Apiture? I noticed that you said the fresnel output is better on the Apiture. Is the Godox still powerful enough to emulate direct sunlight with the fresnel attachment?
@@parliamentpictures2217 For what you need, the M600D is perfect and will be right on par with the Aputure 600d. The only brighter options would be an Aputure 1200d Pro or the Nanlux Evoke 1200 which are WAY more expensive.
@@NewLayer thanks man I really appreciate the reply. I guess it’s like you said, it really boils down to if you want battery charging as an option, as well as weather sealing for those random and unexpected rainy shoots.
Great review! I'd really love to compare the brightness directly to the Aputure 600D but you don't provide that (here nor on your online comparison tool). Honestly, based on the measurements I've seen online at 3 meters, the Godox M600D appears to blow it out of the water. That could be all the difference when trying to push "sunlight" into a room with large windows. No one wants to have to use two Aputure 600D's and get multiple shadows from their sun....
I wish I had a 600d Pro to directly compare. What I can say is that with all my other Aputure lights, the specs they list for bare bulb lights are lower than what I have gotten in testing by 10% or so, so I think you can safely compare what I got with this light bare bulb from 1 meter with what Aputure lists + 5 or 10%, so they are identical in brightness.
You are probably comparing manufacturer listed specs with their reflector attached, which can't be used to compare lights because every reflector has a different beam angle, hot spot, etc. The only way to fairly compare is bare bulb, and both lights will give you the same exact exposure using the same modifiers.
Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer Did you measure by any chance the Godox M600D from 3 meters with the reflector on? I've found real specs (not manufacturer-provided specs) on the Aputure 600D from 3 meters with the reflector on.
@@lonnease6415 I did not, just from 1 meter, but based on the physics of light falloff, a light from 3 meters will be very, very close to 1/9 the brightness it was at 1 meter. So since I measured the M600D with reflector at 174,000 lux at 1 meter, it would be around 19,500 lux at 3 meters using the reflector. Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer Wow! Even if it's less than that, that's still nearly double what the Aputure 600D puts out with the reflector or with the F10 fresnel! It makes sense to me. The Aputure 600D is three years old technology now and the Godox is using 740 watts. I'm sure Aputure will come out with something bigger and better in a year or two, but until then this Godox is an amazing deal and choice for sunlight power on an indy set.
@@lonnease6415 It is but not in a meaningful way. The Godox reflector probably has a tigher beam angle and a worse hot spot, so in the center of the light circle, it's way brighter, but it could have less even falloff and dimmer edges. That's why only bare bulb measurements matter, and both lights put out a functionally identical amount of light. Anything after that is just the doing of whatever modifier you're using.
If you're buying the M600D just because it's "brighter" with the stock reflector, I think you'll be disappointed because if you put that same reflector on the 600d Pro it'd be the same, it just so happens that the Aputure reflector is a different design.
I just added the aperture 600 to my cart but decided to check if there was something else, and this light makes a compelling case for me. Love GODOX photography lights but also have a couple of smaller aperture 150 so I wonder if one should stay within one brand and share accessories and app control or save a bit of money and give this one a go.
If it's just one light, I'd be tempted to pay extra for the continuity of a single brand, but especially if you don't use mobile app control often, it makes the choice a lot easier :)
@@NewLayer had a 3 day commercial shoot this week and being able to tweak the lights around a pharmaceutical manufacturing facility would have saved us loads of time indeed.
@@makatron Perfect example, sounds like you know which way to go then :)
Thank for the review
No problem! Thanks for watching :)
Great as always!!! Greetings!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the review, Please I have some questions for you to make my investment decision. If M300Bi is £948, and M600D is £942 will you trade off Bi for power or will you invest in M600Bi of £1574.00 over M600D of £942.00. And, with your experience, what do you think the fans on both, are they too loud for interveiw set ups. I owned couple of Godox UL due to fan. Thanks
The fans on all of them will be the same, and perfectly fine for interviews, so no worries there.
If you're filming at different locations, the bi-color comes in handy because you can more easily match your light to the surrounding ambient sources. The M300Bi will be around 1.5 stops dimmer than the M600D, and the M600Bi will be about 1/2 stop dimmer than the M600D, so it's not a huge difference really.
Best case scenario is to get the M600Bi for the bi-color AND brightest you can get, but the M300Bi should also be enough brightness in the vast majority of indoor situations.
Hope that helps! If you pick one up, I'd greatly appreciate if you used my links :)
geni.us/godoxm300bi
geni.us/godoxm600bi
geni.us/godoxm600d
@@NewLayer Thanks you very much
About the ballast not being a charger.. my friend, a working professional, says he wishes Aputure kept the charger part out of their ballast and made it smaller and lighter. Usually, working professionals already have a charger for their batteries and have already figured out a way to transport it. plus, it's not practical to run such a high output fixture off of battery.
I'm sure there are people who sit on both sides of the fence. If you need to run it at 50%+ power, the batteries will drain super fast, but the cool thing about a super bright light is that you can still run it at 10% and get a lot of light, and batteries would make a lot of sense then. At least now we have options!
Have you tested this against the brightness of the 600d?
I don't have a 600d on hand to test, but they should be very comparable, probably within 1/3 stop of each other. At this brightness, that's really negligible.
The legend returns
Haha, thanks for the support!
I would opt for GVM SD600D for 2700-7500K flexibility at the same price.
I am testing some of the new GVM SD lights right now and they're a great upgrade over previous generations.
The main thing to keep in mind is that the GVM SD600D is a 600 watt bi-color light, while this is a daylight only light, so this will be brighter, and the GVM will be close to as bright as a 300 watt light at each color.
Although the new GVM lights are better than before, they are still the lowest quality build when you compare them to Godox, Nanlite, and Aputure, so they may also not be suitable for someone who uses their lights daily for a living.
@@NewLayer Solid points, indeed. Yes, I think the maximum brightness would be around ~5100K but even scientifically an overcast at around 7500K or near sunset at 2700K isn't the brightest either. You would need it to be near-max brightness at 5600K of course, but fine-tuning your color temperature to match with your natural light is a much more critical, to me at least that I might even take the light outside instead of relying on reflecting sunlight that could easily be exposed with the slightest air/wind movement.
Warm regards, and if you have an input in that great light comparison website I would love to see more there as many of the new GVM ones are missing there.
@@Bo_Hazem Bi-color Vs daylight is always tough, so it just depends on what you shoot most. Good bi-color lights are the same brightness no matter what you have the color temperature set to. Best option is to just have lots and lots of lights :)
@New Layer Actually I think 300w is already an overkill to my needs, that's why getting the dual-headed GVM ST300R first and see how it performs. The SD600D might come on a later date. So yes, lots of lights is the way to go.😜
A real-life show-off was missing - if the light is as strong as it looks in raw numbers, how does this feel?
The measurements in Lux/f-stop should tell you what you need to know. If you have a 300 watt light, this one is ~1 full stop brighter. If you have a 150 watt light, this one is about 2 full stops brighter, since LED power output is almost linear.
It puts out 23,600 lux bare bulb from 1 meter, which is equivalent to f/13, ISO 100, 1/50 second shutter speed. Sunlight is f/16, ISO 100, 1/125 second shutter speed, so this light is 2 stops dimmer than the daylight sun from 1 meter without any kind of modifier.
Adding a 36" soft box with dual diffusion will cut about 2 stops of light. Other modifiers cut differing amounts of light, but any good modifier should list that information before buying.
Hope that helps.
How would you manage between multiple apps from each lighting brand? Do you have a tablet with multiple of these apps open?
You can have multiple apps open yes. Unfortunately, when you minimize them too long, sometimes the lights lose connection, so it could definitely get irritating if you need that functionality.
Besides price, weigh / bulkiness is a factor for me. I could go without battery power for example if it meant a lighter more portable light
I don't know if we'll ever get a monolight style 600 watt+ light, so they'll always have an external controller and/or ballast. The best light I can think of in that form factor is the Nanlite FS series, which I reviewed here: ua-cam.com/video/NRn84iErwQA/v-deo.html
Those lights use just the head unit and a standard power cable, so they're super simple, and very affordable for the output they provide.
which is better, this or the Nanlite Forza 500?
Unfortunately the Forza 500 is a light I've never used :(
It's 500 watts Vs. 740 watts with this light, so I'd bet it's very similar, just ~1 stop dimmer or so.
has anyone used this outdoor ?
Frist to comment from South Africa
How close is it to an M18?
Kind of hard to say since the M18 is 15-58 degree beam angle, so a fair comparison would be the M600D + stock reflector Vs. the M18 at 45 degrees.
At it's widest, the M18 at 7 meters is 2,245 lux. I didn't measure the M600D at 7 meters, but based on the physics of light falloff, it'd come in around 2% the brightness at 1 meter, which is 3,480 lux.
Those numbers could be off very slightly since it's estimated using math rather than directly measured, but long story short, the M600d is about 1/2 stop brighter than an M18. Keep in mind, because the stock reflector of the M600D is slightly more focused around 45 degrees Vs. the M18 at 58 degrees, it will give it a higher measurement, so in reality, they are probably very, very close to being equal.
Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer That helps a ton, thank you very much.
was expecting it to be cheaper than the forza 500.
The Forza 500 is kind of in a weird area by itself. Everything else doubles previous generations in light output, but that light is 500 watts Vs. this one at 740 watts, so I'd expect this to be ~1 stop brighter. Don't quote me though, I've never been able to test the Forza 500.
The 500 uses a dated design, if you notice all spot lights work best with one crank dial. The 500 has two on each side making handling a pain. They fixed this issue with the larger Forza lights having only one crank lever on one side. As you can see here the Godox has already implemented this feature while at this point Forza is giving away their 500's to clear out space. You can buy a 500x2 kit for the same price as 1 720 Daylight from Forza. Convenience comes with a price as always.
Not to put Godox down or anything cause I think they make some decent products but this looks like a straight up rip off of the Apurture 600d even down to the case. Not sure how they get away with that…
I somewhat agree, but there's only so much you can do/change when it's done so well or in a pretty standard form factor already. I feel like they went through and tweaked some things, but they're not going to change something if it makes for a worse product, haha. And since they're budget oriented, the main thing they'll do is remove features, like battery charging.
They all use the same type of case
I'd give a kidney for an rgbww version.
That would be amazing! I have a feeling they'll release a bi-color version shortly, but not sure we'll get a 600+ watt RGB COB any time soon.
We will see a 600 full spectrum within 6 months if not sooner ⏳
Not by Godox however….
@@NYCgaffer Do you promise?!
@@NewLayer things are moving fast… 💡🔥
hang on a minute... an american... correctly saying "COULDN'T care less"? i'm actually flabbergasted. fair on you, sir!
I'll take any compliment I can get.
@@NewLayer great review by the way. i'd love to get my hands on one of these, not least since all my other lights are godox, but a reliably TONK one at this brightness would be a blessing.
@@halsinden I must say, it's very fun turning on ultra bright LED lights. It's crazy how far lighting tech has come just in the last 5 years.
@@NewLayer i'd never have imagined the opportunity of owning something that powerful when i was working in films decades ago.
@godox send him the assessories.
Thanks for the support :)