'Old Weaky' - Original 1970 383 Dyno Test and Diagnosis - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- Nick's Garage Gear Shop
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This numbers matching 383 Mopar was rebuilt by someone else, but it made no power. So now it is at Nick's Garage, and Nick is on the case.
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I'm 61 and one thing on my bucket list is to meet Nick and see his shop
Come on by!
@@NicksGarage me to.
Absolutely
Same here
See? Nick said “come on by”. Not many UA-camrs invite people over.
@@NicksGarageYou should do a meet n greet and sell signed shirts
Hey Nick old NHRA Stock Eliminator dragracer here. We were required to run the factory casting number carb per NHRA tech bulletin which typically meant a vacuum secondary (in my case I raced Fords so they came with Holleys)The trick to making the secondarys open fully was to remove the secondary diaphram spring and replace it with the weakest spring in the Holley kit, also take the BB checkball and toss it. Reassemble the secondary diaphram and boom fully open the secondarys . This works fine for race cars not sure if you can live with it on the street. Fords are my passion but my second choice would be Mother Mopar, love watching Nicks Garage thank you.
Yessir
I been using Denzo plugs from the 80's same for Amsoil , I use 0-30 . In my 3/4 ton Dodge conv. van with 318 I get 25 MPG . There really nothing better ., been racing and making motors for a very long time . Give a try , you will know a change ..
Nico is very fortunate to have Nick to mentor him. The 383 magnum was rated at 335hp&425ft/lbs. The regular 383 was 330hp&400ft/lbs.
Love the young Nico getting involved. So good to see young people learning carbs and hot rods
In 68-70 I had friends with new Dusters, Road Runners and GTX's. The 340 was impressive, the 383 was good and the 440 would really mash you into the seat. What a great time to grow up.
Well, maybe. I was around then. Most of the cars you mentioned were high to mid 14 second quarter miles. The best 440 might hit high 13's on a very good day. Today a new car doing mid 12's is mediocre. Having said that I own a 65 GTO and the charm is undeniable.
@@65sohc 50 years later you would hope that engineering had made quicker times happen.
I had a 318 that was over 200,000 miles when I got it. It wasn't the fastest thing around for takeoff but it would cruise at 80 mph easy and was once clocked at 105 in second. With that much age she was burning oil, but that was a sweet running engine.
@@don66hotrod94They did but the cars are also much heavier because of all the junk on them . The thing that sucks about the new muscle is the prices are way too much & they are throw away cars . These Chargers Challengers especially the hell cats and the demons Chrysler has already shut down the programs to be able to reflash the computers on them so you can't update them and the parts have stopped being made & kept in stock for only so many years.
My 340 Dart beat several 383 b bodies back in the day. 😉🇺🇸
I recently rebuilt my 70 440 6 barrel. I reused my 484 purple shaft cam and lifters because I was afraid that the new camshaft would be junk. The purple shaft only had 10000 miles on it. The engine runs great and am very satisfied with my choice. Thanks for the video Nick. I always look forward to your shows.
Thanks for watching.
Nico is really learning the ropes from his uncle, awesome fellas. Keep it up
We agree!
I warms my heart every time I see an example of the torch being passed on. Some day the old guys that have been at this for years, and learned so many lessons the hard way, and a thousand times that by reading, talking to others in the field, and thinking, thinking, thinking about what variables are important, and how to better control them, will just be so tired, that ok, it's that time, here's the keys. I will help as much as I can, as long as I still have something to offer, but it is on you now. Take good care of it.
It's truly amazing Nick the frustration of a master engine builder is always tested.
Great watching .
If the secondary is not opening fully, you need to find out what color spring is installed, then install a weaker spring in the vacuum secondary canister. You want one as weak as possible that still closes the secondaries at idle.
There's a linkage on the driver's side that closes the secondaries fully when bent/adjusted correctly. Unfortunate fact: that linkage piece that I mentioned is such a cheap piece of metal on the new Holley carbs that it will probably snap when you attempt to make the adjustment. And then Summit Racing may send you the wrong linkage piece TWICE even though you gave them the correct part number.
Best guesses: 1. Cam is off 2. Wrong stroke length entered into dyno.
Can't wait to see the follow up
How much did it make?.,
Saw a shop rebuilt engine once , had no power . After a lot of searching they found the mark on the cam gear was off
He knows..... Grandstanding as usual from Nick. He has to make a show!
I also would check the timing, Either the cam or the sprocket maybe be off.
I have seen the timing set off as well from manufacture marks. Can’t remember what brand.
Like you said it is what it is....When i was growing up in the late 1940s and 1950s my Dad told me when you had an rear seal to just ad a little bit of ATF TO THE ENGINE OIL and it worked........ Thanks Nick Manny and Nico 👍
Old F-4 II Fighter jet pilot Shoe🇺🇸
I guess with a Rope Seal ?
Thanks Nick....Shoe🇺🇸
I was thinking the same thing - maybe back in the rope seal days. Nowadays, at minimum, you would use Viton / nitrile / Fluoro-Elastomer / ect. unless if your dealing with say a Caddy BB where nobody makes any of that type of good stuff for it.
I don't remember ever seeing such a flat torque curve ever before. That camshaft is almost exactly a match to the factory camshaft if you ask me.
335 hp is all the 383 is capable of ,if you ask me
@@zcam1969 I beat a bunch of B bodies with 390s with early heads. My 65 Galaxie at the time 77-78 with a 65 396ci (.030 over 390) and the 410 hp solid cam , Headers and a 3310-1 took down every 383 and all but a couple of 440 cars. I had an aluminum 427 MR intake and LR 2.08/1.63 valves. But they weren’t stock either. But my neighbor had a Duster with a 340 we built that beat me. Those 340 6V engines were strong and I ported the heads on it like the race heads Racer Brown sold ( W-4s?) 8000 rpm’s with the solid cam made the 340 king of non-Hemi. Mopars. And I was proud of my FE Galaxie.
@@zcam1969 phooey
@@Bbbbad724 try not to gloat too much, I've seen Nick get almost 400 hp out of a 383, they're not all boat anchors
@@Fongolitus I know, they are like the 390, both are the Rodney Dangerfields. Put a solid lifter cam and the 67 closed chamber 440 heads and they wake up. A 390 is the same, a set of 61 375 hp heads or 428CJ heads and a solid 427 cam like I put in my 390 it makes 503 hp. They are both solid engines. Just a bit of ragging from a fellow enthusiast, lol. A good Holley on either is great improvement and headers too.
I had a 1982 Z28 that I bought used in 1984 with only 20,000 miles on it. It had been serviced regularly with an oil change about every 3,000 miles. I changed the oil myself every 3,000 miles and used used STP oil and STP oil treatment in it for extra protection. It was one of the Crossfire Fuel Injection 305s and the the camshaft wore out at around 60,000 miles. My father was a Chevrolet certified mechanic and he said it was the worst he had ever seen. The motor looked brand new on the inside, no sludge etc, but worn out camshaft. I replaced it with a .060 over steel crank 350 with flat top pistons and a TH350 and the car was pretty fast for the street in 1986.
I’m too am surprised by the low torque/horse power numbers…383’s have a reputation of solid torque, burn tires with ease. Nick knows where he is going next, I look forward to the follow up!!
Love seeing Nick and Many doing a show together.👍👍👍
Good to see Niko with you guys.
He's a great young man.
Hi Nick, I replaced a ton of cams on the 305’s.But never had a cam problem on all the Ford’s I built.
By the time a 305 needs a camshaft, the metal wiped off the lobes has gone through the entire engine.
I replaced mine with a built 327. Just for curiosity, I took the 305 apart. The crankshaft was scoured. The bearings were junk. The cylinders were scored.
Into the scrap iron pile it went.
Hey Nick. Love the channel! I just wanted to say a couple things to help things out a little.
1. At just over 4 minutes in your friend was talking about they put an additive in the oil to break in the cam. That is no longer an acceptable method. I have done it many times, mostly successful. Here is the deal. When you add that zinc or whatever it is to reg oil, you change its chemical makeup and sometimes not for the better...Buy break in oil such as joe gibbs sae 30 or amsoil sae 30 to break in the cam. Then change it and put same kind of break in oil back for another 500-1000 miles or several dyno pulls. Then put in what your gunna run every day for oil.
2. It's time brother. Time to switch to roller. It's not worth putting a motor together and having cam go flat and all that metal go thru and possibly have to rebuild it all over again..JMTC Thanks for sharing
Roller cams have been failing also, in our shop we have had so many mopars 5.7 with flat cams.
It comes down to poor quality of steel, poor treatment. Nothing to do with Nick.
Manufacturer don't care
Back in the 70's when we installed new cam and lifters a can of that GM engine oil supplement was added to the regular motor oil of that era. Never had a cam go flat! Last engine I built was a 500 inch 429 Ford 385 series back in 2009 and used off the shelf Comp Cam and hyd. flat tappets. Still running strong today! Now tell me what is going on today???
@@vhp454 Ya I'm aware. We have had good luck with aftermarket cams from clay smith and lifters from johnson. Seems to be the safest bet right now.
@@vhp454Are these 5.7 Hemis that have the afm like GM 5.3 that shut off the lifters for better fuel mileage can't remember what Dodge calls there's but I've seen this happen as well but also cam chains that are breaking causing the pistons to hit the valves because the engine is a interference engine . I'm also hearing that the oil pressure when fully warm at idle that the oil pressure isn't enough & it's causing the lifters to fail . I'm seeing this happening on Fords as well especially on ex police cars that are Dodge or Ford that sit & idle for long periods of time ! I just helped a friend who bought a Challenger that the seller said it stopped running and wouldn't start so I brought my bore scope over to look down into the cylinders and we could see the pistons hit the valves by the marks on the piston dome and then we tried to crank the engine over & the valve train wasn't moving because the timing chain broke in two which also destroyed the timing chain tensioner when we pulled the engine out and took the engine apart to get at the timing chain .
You can use Lawnmower Sae30 oil plus zinc
Nick builds amazing engine's
Thanks.
Sitting in a Val D'Or, QC. hotel on business with a hot coffee watching the best channel on UA-cam. Thanks Nick and the boyz.
Right on! Thanks for watching.
Tulsa Oklahoma usa in the house , great show and alway interesting 👍
Howdy Tulsa! Great to have you here.
Portage, Indiana here! Can't miss an episode, even if I should be outside working on something. Besides, I'm tired of messing with that Briggs and Stratton for today. Ironically, it was the valve train I was messing with.
Yo T town!
JoMo to
Hey, hey, guys!!! It's Memorial Day here in the states (same there in Canada?) Great to see Nick, Manny, and Niko working together!! Thinking about the 383, I was wondering if planing the heads may have caused a slight mismatch between the intake runners where the manifold and heads mate. At any rate, seems like there might be a bottleneck somewhere either on the intake or exhaust side, or maybe a combination of both. With increased compression and cam, I agree with Nick, hp should be at least 350, and torque should be at least 400 lb-ft. But, if there's anything more to be found, Nick'll find it. Great week, all!!!!
Thanks for the comment, JJ. Memorial Day is for American forces. We do our thing here on the 11th of November. Have a thoughtful day and a great week.
The same as here Australia. All the best guys@@NicksGarage
Skittles says remember them by living your best life that is why they gave all so the rest can live the best they can so they will never be forgotten they earned that, now they are looking down from heaven not wanting us to waste one single day
I'm sure you will get it just the way its meant to be Nick and Joe will be happy, no oil leak which is good. Another great video Nick & George thanks till next time have a beaut week ahead.
Thanks, Blinkie. You too.
dodge did have some DUD 383 engines. I was in my buddies brand new purple 1970 Cuda with a 383,..it was gutless. I also had a 1970 383 auto road runner and it was pathetic. All the 440 engines I owned where fantastic. I had a 1966 Chrysler 300 with a factory 440 TNT engine and it was Amazing. it was a heavy weight full size car that would kill mustangs , camaro's and chargers, TRUE Story.!! the Super Commando and the TNT were very powerfull engines.
Probably due to poor machining tolerances at the factory, some slipped past quality control with the bores not true and even the decks uneven
on another note I had a 70 Super Bee 383 magnum that had ridiculous power, ran the bag off it, until it finally spun a bearing at about 130,000 miles, it's still sitting on a stand in my garage
I heard off shore sourcing of cams are the problem in recent years. Its about making money, by saving money by manufacturers. Follow the Money, always follow the money.
Love the channel. You guys are down to earth and full of information. Mopar for ever! Love you guys. Cheers from Pace, Florida.
Much appreciated!
Back in the 1960 and 70's Chevy had issues like this in all their V8 engines. I replaced many back in the day
Thanks for sharing.
I had the same issues with cam and lifters failing mostly because of the person not doing oil change when needed & those Chevrolet engines that used the plastic coated cam gear that the plastic would harden up and crack them chunks would break off & throw the timing off so it would quit running . I had a 66 Chevelle and me and my father took it to go get parts for his 69 Pontiac Grand Prix and we got the parts came home and I worked on his car fixed it then decided to pull my Chevelle into the garage to work on it and it wouldn't start because of that dam timing gear that cracked.
Toay all cams and lifters are Chinese crap
Evenin Mr George an Mr Nick!! Enjoy the week!!
Hey Nick, I like watching your show my parents had a 64 Chrysler 300 that had a 383 in it. It was a big block 383 and we drove the car for almost 8 years. My mother was driving it in town and she drove it for almost an hour with the oil pump light on Until the car just shut off and when they tore the engine down they found parts inside that just melted but she said for it shut off it ran very good. It did not. It didn’t ping until it just shut off those 383 engines are good motors that one runs really good. You guys did a really good job building it.
I've had a couple things mechanical that just healed up. Nobody believes you of course but yours is on video. Great.
Holley sells a spring kit for tuning the vacuum dashpot that opens the secondaries. You need a softer spring.
You also need to double check the number on the choke horn to see what CFM carb you actually have. Could be a 600 but you would think that a 383 would pull the secondaries WOT on a 600.
I check all the cyl pressures just to make sure you don't have a lazy one not sealing. I see George mentioned a cam change for the next video. Don't you use a lot of Lunati cams in your rebuilds?
I like Niko's comment around 38:50, "This guy will definitely get insurance."
As an old timer and an old time engine rebuilder I always thought the 383 sounded like a tractor motor. Nothing like the sweet sound of a chevy or ford cammed small block!
Awesome show! Love my mopars and watching Nick and all the guys work on them.
My guess as to why rear seal stopped leaking was that during the 20 min break in, it took a few minutes to start leaking, the rest of the time was testing and the motor only ran a couple minutes.
My theory concerning cam failure is overuse of the element "Chinesium".
My beardy, Skittles said the same thing
Mine is corporate greed. We need to get back to American/Canadian made....
Holley makes a spring kit for the secondary, I've had the same problem in the past and installed the smaller spring curing the problem.. not saying that is the case here but it worked for me.
I'm 70 years old and my number 1 thing on my bucket list is to have Nick to build me a big block max wedge Mopar!
I remember Hot Rod Magazine article on 68 Road Runner. Thet said the engines they yested none put out below 350HP. Hot Rod didn't like the "bus shifter" and ran 14.0s with stock setup and tires.
good to see Nico wrenching , I am going to say that bad steel is what is going on with the cam, and thanks for the trippy camara work George well done, cheers.
That’s why I always prefer an auto if your rear seal leaks down the road it’s not all over your clutch plate . Auto means no slipping clutch and it’s not such an urgent repair . MOPAR old school for life .👍🏻🇦🇺.
Another fine quality video by Nick @ Nick's garage. With CC'S 😊😊😊
Glad you enjoyed it.
Your disappearing oil leak reminded me of a mysterious coolant leak I had on my 72 Cutlass. I would go for weeks without having to add to the radiator and suddenly it would get rid of a couple quarts. It turned out to be the water pump. Once I caught it leaking I found that if the water pump turned backward a little, it would leak pretty fast. I could turn it forward just a little and it would stop instantly.
In Nick We Trust
Thanks!
hello nick and George hope all is well with you tonight
Hi there Danoh! All good here, hope you are well too!
Watching this made my face sweat. I thought for sure the engine was going to blow up. Really like the Holleys- so user friendly- can easily adjust everything or clean it while mounted on the engine.
I really like watching Nick and Manny. Nick is such a perfectionist he takes it absolutely personally when one of these motors has a hiccup. He keeps saying he’s not gonna worry about it but keeps talking about it. Manny is like Oh well it can be fixed whatever it is. Mr Cool to Nicks Mr Hyper. 😆
Too much zinc(zddp) is just as bad as not enough. Motor oil geek Lake Speed Jr does quite a bit of testing. Lake helped develop Driven oil .
Exactly! Too much ppm of zink can also wipe out a cam & lifters
You ca use Mos additive 4% for break in on Regular lawnmower Sae 30 oil
1200 to 1500 ppm.
Lake also mentions that using the additives may also be a bad idea. It seems to me personally the break in failures are happening to 2 reasons. Lifters not spinning, and too much detergents vs ZDDP. The problem isn’t low ZDDP it is too much detergents fighting the adhesive of the ZDDP. Driven has VERY VERY low detergents (calcium) and a decent pack of ZDDP below 1600ppm. Note: API SP oil today 2022+ now has much reduced calcium and has shown much better cam wear characteristics. The reduction of calcium was not because of cams because they don’t care about them anyway now but because turbo engines experience a weird issue of detonation because of the calcium. lSPI.
100% stay away from adding friction packs to the oil very bad idea. Zinc will become an abrasive if you get it wrong
This surprised me, low on numbers after all those upgrades. Imagine what it was making before!!! Definitely worth the effort, with some more updates coming I’m sure. Looking forward to some more horses (different cam???) - let’s see where this goes!
Honestly never saw a 383 that impressed me,my brother bought a new 68 roadrunner 383 automatic it just wasn't a hoss.
Maybe so, but I've had and have been involved with some good ones.
383 w727 trans and 3.23 gears had great top end but were slow in the quarter, 3.55 gears woke them up, also a lot of cars back the had fools tweak the carbs and that didn't help any of them.
My Dad bought a '68 Road Runner brand new - 383/727. Then traded it in for a new '69 - 383/4-speed/ Air Grabber. Both Dad, Mom, and Uncles all agreed that the '68 was way faster. And the '69 even had a 3.91 Sure Grip rear! Sometimes you can have good one and one built late on a Friday!
@@bad2000ta My brother had a 70 Road Runner with all kinds of work done to it, told me he was going to put 3.91's in it as it had 3.23's, I told him it would be slower as 3.91's were too low and he should go to 3.55's, he laughed and put in the 3.91's, it was slower, I laughed and still do from time to time.
@@stephenwest798 It would be a slower top speed with 3.91's but the 3.91's would be faster for acceleration.
The 383 70 Roadrunner was a fast car. The 383 could really take a lot of punishment. I ran my Dad's 70 383 3 speed standard shift trans car every weekend on hwy 3 south side of Houston .Not much could run within on top end. It would peg the speedo on 150. It had a factory 11 bolt rearend. Never seen another one..My dad said it had 273 gears.
I had a great running '70 383 RR, too.
Yeah I’m not surprised with those numbers… not sure what my 383 makes but it runs pretty well. Always hoped to put a Stroker kit in mine (71-RR tribute) but the way things are today and being on disability for almost 20 years I think it might have to find a new home after 20 years… great video Nick 👍🏼 - Love my pistol grip
Oil dye is your friend. No engine fixes itself.
378 lbs feet of torque. My regular gas 383 2 Barrel in a Newport had 405 lbs feet of torque.
I believe you. I am trying to get it to 425 FT LBS of TQ.
Some of the strongest 383s I’ve seen started life as 2brl. Every body and his brother had stock 383 mag left overs growing cob weds in corner of the garage early/mid 70s.
We started buying up unloved B Body 383 2bl cars in mid 70s and threw Magnum goodies at them. Several of them turned to be freakish strong runners. I suspect they had minimum core shift inside. That and they weren’t stamped under over size on the id pad
I'm remebering three of them off the top of my head that I've dealt with that were 2 bbl motors that were modified into very respectable runners. I still have one in fact from a '68 Polara 500. All 383s except 1971 2 bbl engines had internally balanced forged steel crankshafts.
I have a 74 Newport with a 400 2 barrel. It's actually surprising how quick that car is.
@@ron1836 I had a 78 NYB with a 400 4 barrel and it really went especially on the road. What is it that Maverick always says about the built 400 in his Magnum ".. the best B block ever made..."
As part of my "blueprinting", I always run a brake cylinder hone in the lifter bores before assembly. (also removes any surface rust).
I’ve always thought of it as breaking in the lifters , not the cam itself. It seems to me that if you wear a lobe , it’s a lifter issue. I guess it could be a hardness issue with the cam but if that were the case , you wouldn’t expect to see damage on the lifter.
It's possible cause is many things. Mostly either bad heat treating, poor steal. Other than that you need to make sure and check EACH lifter before you install them. The surface actually should NOT be flat! It must have a slight convex roll. The center of the lifter being higher than the edges. This is needed to enable the cam lobes to spin the lifter. The closer the lifter surface comes to being flat the less ability it has to be spun by the lobe.
Check each lifter when buying a set with atleast a precise flat edge. Like a metal ruler or at least take two lifters at a time and put the faces on each other and see if the wobble on each other.
Often these days you will get cam kits that have 1,2 or ALL the lifters brand new from the box having flat surfaces. This will cause failures in a short time. (Another thing over looked is checking each cam lobes and ensuring they are slighting angled. From rear to front of the camshaft. This can be harder to see sometimes. But both those forgotten tiny angles are needed to keep the lifters always spinning in the bore. When they stop spinning that's when they are done!)
Lastly ensure the lifter bores are not too tight on each. Check all and pre lube before install. The bores angle can also be checked if you want to get really really into safe or sorry territory.
I had a 69 Charger factory 383 glass packs was the only thing that wasn't stock that baby would almost lift the front wheels when you opened it up.Friends where really impressed. Lifters floated out after 5200 rpm. 383 HP auto 323 posi f8 green.
Yeah ,ok.
My man was wise to note that either more cams are failing these days, OR, we are finding out about more. Very important point for life and its observances. Is the “thing” we observe actually happening more, or are we just observing it more, because nowadays there are definitely more eyes on seemingly everything.
Love a good mystery! Stay tuned! 🔍 Some nice music choices in the background George! Thanks guys.
Glad you enjoyed it.
I saw a video by a Mopar guy and he had a really good idea. He marked each pushrod so upon startup he make sure the pushrods were spinning, as they should with the lifters. Yes it could get messy, but i think it's a heck of a good idea. And yes, you could watch the mark on the pushrods as they spun around!
You can’t run the motor and look at the pushrods, unless you are turning it over with the starter motor and the intake and valley pan is off.
@@Monaco-BuilditFixitDriveitEver Duh, you can remove the valve covers and watch them spin and take a flashlight and look down into the lifter gally, or at least I can.
Oops. It’s late is my only excuse. You are right.
Nick if that cam was in a 396 the rear cam journal should have a oil grove cut in it to send oil to the lifters. The rear cam bearing has 3 oil holes and the cam provides the passage for the oil to the lifters on 1966/1967 engine.
The 396 is a 1969 casting. The old last cam bearing did not have a groove in it. There was a groove behind the cam bearing in the block. I have oil coming through all the pushrods.
That’s great Nick sure like your videos very informative keep up the amazing work. I appreciate a man that remains positive.
FWIW- recently I've read/watched online where they say Too MUCH Zinc is just as bad during Break-in as too little Zinc.
True!
Hi Nick /George/Niko and the other half of the DINAMIC DUO Manny ... Nick she's really running good maybe tomorrow do more testing could make horse power go up more with more Brake in .. Good to have no more OIL LEAK coming from the back.. George GREAT video as always Buddy .. Have a awesome week EVERYONE and Nick ( WHO LOVES YA BABY ) Your Friend THE BANDIT AKA BOB from ILLINOIS...
WE love ya, Bandit. Take it easy!
As long as it's never overheated and over revved it will last! Got almost the best I ever got on a old school motor!
158,000 miles or 255 kilometers. That's a great amount of daily drive miles and street and street racing/drag racing on Saturday and Sunday nights and enjoy the car is a understatement 😢. Going to say that I did awesome and glad lad I never did rev it over 5-5300 rpm maximum and I had not problem as soon as the rpm's got to be around 3-3500 it was pulling with incredible grunt. I would love to have a great rebuild someday. Hopefully you can help me ensure it will last me through my working days and retirement years. Thanks for sharing this with me and my family as always. Awesome and have a great evening and enjoy your Thursday morning, from the Farm and Rust Belt in Western Pennsylvania in the Butler county region north west of Pittsburgh, PA!
I live in Olean NY.. u know it? Not too far from you
Great job Nick ..i was going to say with 2° bigger spread on the lobe separation and a bit more duration on intake and exhaust and the lift right where it at and the timing at 34°-35° with the Edelbrock carb..it should bring factory numbers...good content and thanks 🔧🔧👍
I race Hobbystock on a 1/3 mile dirt track so even though we do budget build 350 sbc when I drop the lifters in the bore 2 things I look for that cost no money. 1 does the lifter drop smoothly in the bore and i take my mini pick and spin the lifters in the bore...super easy and is free.
Quadrajet..carbs are great in top end..in my oval experience...also ran... no alternator...and no...power steering....and ground the brake rotors down a lot...
..helped my campaign
Love the tunes , George
Nick! What is the list # on Joe's carb? That looks like a 600 cfm smogger type carb to me. I bet you found the black spring in the secondary on Joe's carburetor. That is one flat torque curve on that 383.
A 1 inch spacer and the "Kawasaki " cam? Might get you where you need to be?!
George! Fantastic camera work as usual!
My duster had quite mufflers and all u hear was the carb woooooooo loved it maaan
"ED uhl brock." 😁
The guys I knew at Gratiot Auto Supply in Detroit used to sell those intakes as well as"Percolator" air filters. Also "Hardwood" hood scoops.
Hey, I probably mispronounced "Weiand" until I met the son of the owner back in the day.
Its cuz copyright stuff... yeah.
Use original carbs not that Chinese aftermarket junk
It used to be cast right on Weiand products "SAY WHY-AND". How about WILDwood brakes? Or CONE torque convertors? Mozshur Engineering? I admit that I pronounce Milodon incorrectly, but it sounds better to me the way I say it😊
Nick has mispronounced Edelbrock for years now. To the point that this foible has become an endearing part of Nick's personality that we all accept and no longer comment on. Sort of like people complaining about 1080 480 video quality elsewhere. It really adds nothing to the conversation. Peoples traits become more ingrained as they get older. As I have gotten older I waste less of my valuable time left on this earth trying to redirect stubborn old people's traits, realizing that it is a waste of time. Diction and pronunciation are important no doubt. These things bother my ear as well. It is challenging for me not to nitpick.
@@Orcinus1967 Stubborn old people?! Hey, I resemble that remark! Nick says "ELDERbrock! Haha. I hear A LOT of people pronounce it that way, though. One of my buddies always used to say "rev ELIMINATOR", hahaha. There's more, but not coming to me right now😊
It’s mopar time baby whooooo
Right on! Here we GO.
George is the best narrator on you tube
Wow! Thank you.
@@NicksGarage a well deserved compliment george you the best and you work hard to provide amazing videos done on a professional level , cheers
Thanks Jimmy!
As you normally build your 440s, the pistons would be better if they were zero-decked. This is even more critical on the short stroke 383 B-engine. The best running 383s actually had positive deck pistons, similar to a early 340. Even a moderate dome is handy getting compression with this setup.
I went through this last year with hydraulic flat tappet cams. Both lobes being wiped and lifters having the entire top ground off! I went to a roller, that fixed the problem.
Nick we have alot in common. Leaking rear main is my greatest fear in engine reconditioning. sometimes it takes months to leak.
The problem with new cams is poor quality materials and poor manufacturing quality of both the cam and the lifters. Uncle Tony did a video about this a while back. Also some of the new lifters were flat instead of having a slight crown like they are supposed to be.
I am with you guys.
Finally someone mentions this. He did a lot to try to find possible problems!
My Chilltons Auto Service manual rates the 1969 4 bbl 383 with 10.00:1 compression at 335hp @ 5200. For 1970 the same engine also is rated at 335 hp @ 5200 but the compression was 9.5:1. I think they fudged the numbers for 1970 like you said because losing .5 of compression should have dropped the 1970 hp rating at least a few hp. No? It appears they had the same cam for both years.
Looks like they did the same thing with the 375hp/440. The 1970 Hi Po 440 has 9.7:1 but is still rated at 375hp.
Good point.
Nick I'm 1 of those weird guys who would take the 383 over a 440, same block same performance "almost" but for less moolah $$$$$, I luvd the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd style change of the Roadrunner, but thats it. Convertables are a rare breed for sure.
Not weird at all. The 383 is Mopars best engine. The Low Deck is way superior in everything but displacement
I agree. I own a '69 convertible.
NOT THE SAME BLOCK FELLAS , THE 440 IS A RAISED BLOCK DUE TO THE LONGER CONNECTING RODS AND BIGGER PISTONS , LONGER STROKE !!! I REALLY LIKE THE 383:, ITS EASILY TAMABLE , WHETHER IT RUNS AT 30 M.P.H. OR 105 PLUS IT ALWAYS COMES BACK DOWN TO A SMOOTH IDLE !!! THE 440 & 426 HEMI REQUIRE MORE TUNING TO DIAL THEM IN 6 - PACK / DUAL QUADS !!!!
I have that same Motor Manual...my dad gave it to me...sweet... The Chevy Corvair section is nice as a lot of people don't have access to that info..
Very cool! Here's to dad!
The owners carburetor is a typical 600cfm, if it was a 750cfm carburetor, the ONLY acception for it to have square fuel bowls instead of the cathedral bowls, its going to be in a 2x4 setup so they fit next to each other either on a dual plain or tunnel ram intake. As for the secondaries not opening up all the way, holley usually installs the silver(plain) or black spring which will not open fully even at 5500rpm, you will want the purple spring as a minimum, but even then, the 600cm is too small for that engine IMO.
80459SA- 750cfm/4160/vacuum secondary/single feed inlet/electric choke. Fits very nice on a big block Mopar.
Niko, I am so sorry for spelling your name all of this time. Please forgive me for my ignorance.
You are doing very well working under Nick. I always check to see if you are present in every stream. 😅
DUDE THE INTAKE IS TWO SMALL NOW...1 OR A TWO INCH CARB SPACER......HELLO..? AND A NEW INTAKE MANAFOLD....PENNES ON THE DOLLOR ,,,,YOUR SHOW IS THE BEST,,, NICK FOR PRESIDENT BIG TIME
You’re shouting.
I wondered about a spacer, that spacer will help air velocities going into the intake.
@@whiskerbiscuit99 I ran a 1 inch spacer on my stock 440. It maybe raised the horsepower, not too sure by my butt meter. I just took it off to clear the factory dual snorkel air cleaner. The low end torque and responsiveness went up. Cheers
Same here 61 myself , My 383 in my 69 FB Fish today on the street only, Mopar 292/509 cam, 800 Eddy AVS2, repro exhaust from Accurate, Factory Cast iron Exhaust manifolds. Eddy TM6 single plane intake, Petroix III 18 initial Limited to 38 Degrees. Very light springs. 38000 stall. 3:55 gears. The 383 Loves CFM and Timing IMO!
Ran a Holley 750 DP in the Drag racing past same engine with 4:56 gears with 7:50 dial on the 1/8th.Chrysler Gold Box, Same timing interior mostly removed. Full original 1969 exhaust. With some added pieces like a cool can etc!
Yes and as the lifter turns the film of oil makes sure that it’s riding center to the hole. That’s why it’s so important to change your oil every 3000 miles or every six months. I don’t care what kind of super oil it is the molecules will break down. Great Video Thank You 🙏 P.S. I started turning wrenches in the early 70’s and Nick is absolutely correct!!!
One of your best Geo ! - Almost like being there
Thanks so much!
I use Bullet a lot , I breaking at 90 lbs seat and 250 full lift , then spring them up to spec and check new parts before installing.
Been there, done that.
Always remove the inner spring when breaking in a new cam and lifters.
hello Dr. Nick & George.
Hello there! Great to see you again.
I had recently changed the cork valve cover gaskets on my Ford 360 and out of the 10 bolts holding the two valve cover gaskets on three of them leaked. Like you I had flattened the areas around the bolt holes of the valve covers. Disappointed, not sure what I had done wrong I didn't have time to change them out. I drove the truck for about a week and after a while the leaking just stopped. Three months later they are still not leaking. I just figured that maybe a number of heat cycles helped in the sealing process.
Maybe compare factory cam centerline to this new cam and maybe lsa differences?😊
The dyno doesn't lie. I'd like to see how the OEM got the reading of 335HP and 450TQ. Maybe with a longer stroke crank, but I don't think those readings were had with a pure stock engine. Don't forget, that was with a contact point distributor, unless Chrysler had the electronic ignition in that car back then.
Maybe doing some headwork mods would help for the HP or a different cam. Again, they were looking for clean running engines back then, way before catalytic converters which came in about 1975.
Thank you Nick for this dyno night!
I wouldn't presume to know more than you Nick as I've just been an amateur dinking around for 50 years. But sometimes when I was a programmer you knew that just some ideas hit you that were outside your field of vision
We install new parts and we assume they are what the manufacturer says but is it possible the lobes on that camshaft aren't what they are supposed to be?
As far as the leak I was thinking the oil expanded that gasket and sealed it
Anyway that's all I got
I think today you get a new part and my friend who's been a Mercedes-Benz shop owner for 50 years agrees - sometimes a new part isn't as good as the old one you're taking out
I remember once putting in an O2 sensor just to pass our smog test and it failed and I put the old one in and it passed
Remember what they say about "assuming" 😁
Excellent points my brother. :)
This dude, Tony , did extensive observation and analysis of the recent lifter break in issues.
I agree with you.
The cam issue could be a lifter problem, improper convex base, or maybe rough machining. The lifter base should be almost a mirror finish. The cam likewise may not have the proper taper required to spin the lifter. If for any reason, (as we know) the lifter does not spin, the cam will be wiped out. Also as every professional engine builder knows (maybe not the shade tree mechanic) the lifter must fall freely on its own weight in the lifter bore. If it does not, the cam will be wiped out. The cam break in procedure is critical, as Nick describes.
There are companies that guarantee their cams if you use their lifters. Most of the 305 gm I ever messed with were roller cams.
Thanks for explaining how you set the loading of the engine on the stand. II’ve often wondered what you were looking at when you made adjustments with the 3/4” wrench.
Now you know.
I drove a friend's new '69 Roadrunner with a automatic trans back in the day and it was pretty gutless.
A lot of people that had musclecars never put forth the effort to tune them to their potential and many made them slower by not knowing what they were doing. The factory spec tune-up left a lot to be desired concerning power and overall satisfaction.
The good ‘ol Elderbrock. 🤪 I agree with the guy that said you need less intake restriction.
It has to be compression ring blow by.. or as Nick is suggested, tuning the proper CFM carb to bring it to max horse and torque specs. Maybe the cylinder heads need to be Ported and polished.. Always helps, but in the fine tuning world no stone gets in turned… Good job Nick! Long time follower and enjoy your videos! :)
Master class, in session!
Thanks Dave.
We had a 383 that we launched at 6,000 and shifted at 7,200. It was a 4 spd car. It ran pretty good for the horrible combination of parts we had.
Built a 1977 chevy 454, tow rig, went with a NOS 1980 camshaft and elgin lifters, the camshaft wipe lobe gods were kind to me, had a comp cams, but with the failures I figured keep it stock.
Planing the heads and going with the thinner head gasket moves the push rods .040” deeper into the lifters increasing the chance of valve float. This is common on modified engines with non-adjustable hydraulics.
I add Rocker Shaft shims accordingly when milling heads or the Deck.
@@nickpanaritis4122 I believe you said it was weak before. You added enough for what you did but was that enough?Did you check for just under 0 preload?
@@sjcottsi ... I always look into the preload.
Suggestion: Buy a good quality set of hardness testing files so when you come across a failure like this you can check the hardness to see if the cam or lifters were heat treated correctly and made of material that hardens. You can also check a new camshaft or lifter before installing it too. I bet you anything the ones that fail quickly from excessive wear like this are soft like cheese on the Rockwell hardness scale. If a manufacturer won't exchange an item if it has manufacturing defects before it's even installed then don't buy from them.
I have a background in tool making and did my own heat treating and grinding of inserts for injection molding and stamping dies and know the difference. If I was making a camshaft, I would use a high strength alloy that does not get brittle when heat treated for hardness, rough machine it a few thou over size, case harden it, and then finish grind it to size so it has both a very tough core and a hard long wearing outer layer. I doubt they're made this way though which is why you are more likely to see them snap like carrots because they are hard and brittle or wear like mild steel because they are too soft.
Thank you for the Info.
Today all Chinese crap Cores
They also need the correct taper on the cam as well as the lifters.