Drop hubs are a great way to alter roll centre. It'll bring the roll centre back closer to the c of g promoting better turn in. (if that's what you need) It'll be interesting to see the difference on the track 👍
Wow, a workshop!! I've always been a bit dismayed you've been stuck out on the patio doing your work. A quick tour with future plans may be in order. The drop spindles look good. Always something unexpected pops up with mods, eh. Cheers mate
Thanks mate. Really appreciate it. Not 100% sure if I'm ready to share too much with a tour just yet, do you think people would be interested? Somewhat hesitant also as I do still have to be mindful of my own privacy and security too.
Well I'm interested, in the workshop - not the house. I remember making a comment on working on the floor. You said you had no bench. I'd just like to see how much room you have now and what you are going to for gear to work on the cars, layout, y'know. It'll come up in future vids I 'spose. On ya
@@donfinch862 Too right. I've put together some bench space in this shed that makes life infinitely less unpleasant. No more sitting on concrete, no more rain and cold weather. So bloody good.
You are aware of the fact that a wheel *does* flex a bit while driving? The washers will touch the wheel, trust me. Though it looks nice, it looks like these hubs are not 100% thought through... Or, at least they could've mentioned it in the blurb... ...which has a lot of info, but is also lacking some very important stuff... ...as you already mentioned... And they are even Gen3!
Quite aware of the situation, as I touched on in the video it's something I need to keep an eye on, and easy enough to address thankfully. Worst case the washers get cut down some more and then all will be well.
perhaps and old question but have you looked at the adjustable upper control arms for rear to get some more tracktion-related adjustability?.. (i guess you have well enough power to need it ?)
Hi Andreas, I have certainly seen various aftermarket arms options out there, I don't see a need for them. I seem to be able to get enough adjustment with the OEM cam bolts in the lower inner arms. The car doesn't really have a big issue with rear wheel grip, perhaps because it doesn't do launches from standstill?
@@Bbeavis totally understand. Keep up the great work! I’ve got a low mount Kraken sitting on my bench as well. Debating on making a support brace to go along with it. Thanks for the vids!
Haha thanks for being so keen on this video mate! Even getting your better half to watch this stuff? Impressive. Currently my spring rates are ~900lbs/in (16kg) front , 560lbs/in (10kg) rear. But I think the rear may be to soft, or I need a stiffer rear anti-roll bar.
@@Bbeavis on one hand I want you to test them on what works (firmer rears) and on the other hand I want it to be a direct comparison. Do you think you could adequately isolate the spring rate difference and do a proper a/b with the different rates or should I sent em near as can to what you've got? If i end up wanting a different spring rate than I send you, would you mind helping cover just the extra set of springs? I'll also talk to supermiata and see if they wanna alleviate any of the cost to reflect the potential of useful marketing.
@@noncog1 To be 100% honest, I'm kinda not sure what to say noncog1, I'm stunned and honoured. Have never expected something so high-end and expensive as a set of coilovers to be sent to me at no cost. For the most part I make these videos just to share what I'm doing on the car, never really considered it as a means to review or have the opportunity to compare parts at someone elses cost. My main issue with rear stiffness is only through one certain very high speed high grip corner at Phillip Island, so I think it could just be a setup change needed just for that one circuit. Something I need to experiment with, firstly I'd try a anti-roll bar change before I start doing spring rate changes.
@@Bbeavis to clarify just to make sure everyone is on the same page, they're being purchased for my gfs car, but I figured if we've waited a year of saving up, we can wait a couple more months to loan them, so we will be loaning you our set before we install them. Obviously it will take effort on your part too, install, set-up, testing, adjusting, reviewing, filming, editing, all to put your old suspension back on and (hopefully, if I'm not wasting my money) miss having the xidas.the reason I want to do this is primarily because I cant find any well based reviews of quite a lot of very expensive parts, so you just kinda have to hope that it's as good as the sellers say. I'm very opposed to this, I believe in empirical evidence, so you'll be doing the community a huge favor, and getting to make some content out of it, here's to hoping the content generates enough revenue to be worth you time. Also I figure if these coilovers are as good as the forums over here say, it can help you upsidedowners move to a better product. Again, I'm aiming to make the purchase in feburary, and I expect you to hold on to them for a month or two before sending em back. As I get closer to purchase time, I'll email you to start sorting details.
The big question is were they worth it? What's the change to the handling? Has braking changed at all? The stock spindles are known to flex a bit with BBK.
@@JasonSmith-tk5eb I would like to see that video too. I've been reducing unsprung weight a few pounds at a time and don't really notice much. Perhaps if I had done it all at once I would have.
@@Bbeavis following up on this. Still haven't seen anything from anyone on these. Good, bad, ugly? What's the story? Planning on adding ABS and these have provisions for this too. Would love to hear how they're working out.
@@JasonSmith-tk5eb I'm not exactly sure what I can tell you other than functionally they do their job, the wheels are still attached to the car and spinning fine and the spindles are holding it all together. Bearings are handling track abuse, the finish of the keislers is pretty stout, everything looks more or less like new.
Hey, I own a 2.5 SVT with the 16” rims, I’m thinking of getting a set of 15” advanti S1s, just wondering how much difference I would feel in the way of sidewall roll? It’s something I’m keen to do but don’t want to spend money on something that would look great, but not be so nice to drive.
Many many people have been happily running 15" rims on the NB Mk2 model MX-5's for years, myself included. You mention sidewall roll, but in fact it is generally considered that the 15" rim is the superior choice for ideal performance for the MX-5. There's a reason what that diameter is the one of choice for those of us who want a better performing wheel/tyre setup. You wont be disappointed. That said, if you are still running OEM springs/shocks, then that is more likely going to impact the experience of roll than the tyres.
I am waiting for these to come back into stock to order. What rear hub did you use? Standard MR2 or custom? I am planning on using the SADfab moded rear hub and Standard MR2 Front hub.
Slightly off topic - Is that a tile or vinyl on your garage floor. Looking to paint mine in a few weeks but wondering if there’s a less labour intensive option
FWIW, I painted my floor white with a special polyaspartic paint. It was actually designed for that application, but 4 years later it is many shades of brown. I wish I had used a tile of some sort. That vinyl looks nice. BTW, a single color floor with no flecks makes it easier to find dropped parts.
@@Bbeavis I've read that folks were seeing flex in the rear toe. I've also found a few posts indicating the setup was very difficult because of the geometry correction baked into them? Did you find it so? Thanks for taking the time to reply!
Disappointing to hear that Keisler didn't include helpful info for the swap...sounds like Ikea-related issues with extra hardware and nonexistent diagrams... Looking forward to an eval after you get some seat time with this...👍...
Thanks Paul, Keisler clearly know how to make a quality product, while I'm sure the cost to manufacture them is high and the volumes are low, nontheless for the price I paid I think it's still fair to expect it to be well documented and tested.
I'm not sure what I can tell you other than they do their job, the wheels are still attached to the car and spinning fine and the spindles are holding it all together.
Hard to explain in text, but as you had discovered, google has the answers :-P Essentially the hub mating surface, the part the wheel bolts to, can fatigue, crack, and you end up with no wheel.
With price in mind, as it's the hardest part to swallow, these just wouldn't make sense for most people. But in my particular situation I actually needed to replace some worn parts anyway, AND, for the actual benefits over replacing OEM for OEM, there is the suspension geometry correction, weight reduction, and shock length benefits.
Lower CG, but the suspension geometry is still where it was designed to function. That means better camber, better bump steer, and better suspension adjustment range. Picture how a double wishbone suspension moves, it's more linear the closer to neutral design point it is on it's arc of motion (unless it was designed perfectly linear, which miata is not.) They also have negative camber built in, so you can get more if you want. Plus, if you don't have what I consider to be dumb "adjustable length" shocks, you can fit more shock stroke in the extra room you've gained with longer shocks, which means more travel (potentially, need double springs...) They don't have provisions for dust shields, so driving in the rain kind of sucks as your pads and rotors will be getting wet constantly. And the biggest one, you get rid of shitty stock miata front hubs, but you could manage that without the drop spindles...
@@pontiacg445 Ah for my car I only went rear keislers, OEM front uprights still. My front hubs are already upgraded and I didn't have the balls to sneak more money from the wife for the front set.
![INSANE MIATA SUSPENSION SETUP | #OMGMIATA | EP42 | [4K60]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BpHLnAhc1C8/mqdefault.jpg)
Drop hubs are a great way to alter roll centre. It'll bring the roll centre back closer to the c of g promoting better turn in. (if that's what you need) It'll be interesting to see the difference on the track 👍
Good tip! Thanks mate
I liked the video of what happens when the wheel falls off,
Trying to avoid the chance of that happening to me.
Wow, a workshop!! I've always been a bit dismayed you've been stuck out on the patio doing your work. A quick tour with future plans may be in order. The drop spindles look good. Always something unexpected pops up with mods, eh. Cheers mate
Thanks mate. Really appreciate it. Not 100% sure if I'm ready to share too much with a tour just yet, do you think people would be interested? Somewhat hesitant also as I do still have to be mindful of my own privacy and security too.
Well I'm interested, in the workshop - not the house. I remember making a comment on working on the floor. You said you had no bench. I'd just like to see how much room you have now and what you are going to for gear to work on the cars, layout, y'know. It'll come up in future vids I 'spose. On ya
@@donfinch862 Too right. I've put together some bench space in this shed that makes life infinitely less unpleasant. No more sitting on concrete, no more rain and cold weather. So bloody good.
HES BACK WITH THE CAR 👌
:) hi
Probably going to get this when my current hubs take a dump
Well can say for sure, they're certainly a solid upgrade that hopefully will last the life of the car.
Hope you can get back out there
Thank you very much.
You are aware of the fact that a wheel *does* flex a bit while driving?
The washers will touch the wheel, trust me.
Though it looks nice, it looks like these hubs are not 100% thought through...
Or, at least they could've mentioned it in the blurb...
...which has a lot of info, but is also lacking some very important stuff...
...as you already mentioned...
And they are even Gen3!
Quite aware of the situation, as I touched on in the video it's something I need to keep an eye on, and easy enough to address thankfully. Worst case the washers get cut down some more and then all will be well.
perhaps and old question but have you looked at the adjustable upper control arms for rear to get some more tracktion-related adjustability?.. (i guess you have well enough power to need it ?)
Hi Andreas, I have certainly seen various aftermarket arms options out there, I don't see a need for them.
I seem to be able to get enough adjustment with the OEM cam bolts in the lower inner arms.
The car doesn't really have a big issue with rear wheel grip, perhaps because it doesn't do launches from standstill?
Thanks! Now in the the Kraken!
Definitely trying to... so little spare time these days!
@@Bbeavis totally understand. Keep up the great work! I’ve got a low mount Kraken sitting on my bench as well. Debating on making a support brace to go along with it. Thanks for the vids!
FUCKIN NAILED IT
Hell yeah, am excited to watch this with the girl when I get home. Probably gunna send you some xida aces around feburary, what are your spring rates?
Haha thanks for being so keen on this video mate! Even getting your better half to watch this stuff? Impressive. Currently my spring rates are ~900lbs/in (16kg) front , 560lbs/in (10kg) rear. But I think the rear may be to soft, or I need a stiffer rear anti-roll bar.
@@Bbeavis on one hand I want you to test them on what works (firmer rears) and on the other hand I want it to be a direct comparison. Do you think you could adequately isolate the spring rate difference and do a proper a/b with the different rates or should I sent em near as can to what you've got? If i end up wanting a different spring rate than I send you, would you mind helping cover just the extra set of springs? I'll also talk to supermiata and see if they wanna alleviate any of the cost to reflect the potential of useful marketing.
@@noncog1 To be 100% honest, I'm kinda not sure what to say noncog1, I'm stunned and honoured. Have never expected something so high-end and expensive as a set of coilovers to be sent to me at no cost.
For the most part I make these videos just to share what I'm doing on the car, never really considered it as a means to review or have the opportunity to compare parts at someone elses cost.
My main issue with rear stiffness is only through one certain very high speed high grip corner at Phillip Island, so I think it could just be a setup change needed just for that one circuit. Something I need to experiment with, firstly I'd try a anti-roll bar change before I start doing spring rate changes.
@@Bbeavis to clarify just to make sure everyone is on the same page, they're being purchased for my gfs car, but I figured if we've waited a year of saving up, we can wait a couple more months to loan them, so we will be loaning you our set before we install them. Obviously it will take effort on your part too, install, set-up, testing, adjusting, reviewing, filming, editing, all to put your old suspension back on and (hopefully, if I'm not wasting my money) miss having the xidas.the reason I want to do this is primarily because I cant find any well based reviews of quite a lot of very expensive parts, so you just kinda have to hope that it's as good as the sellers say. I'm very opposed to this, I believe in empirical evidence, so you'll be doing the community a huge favor, and getting to make some content out of it, here's to hoping the content generates enough revenue to be worth you time. Also I figure if these coilovers are as good as the forums over here say, it can help you upsidedowners move to a better product. Again, I'm aiming to make the purchase in feburary, and I expect you to hold on to them for a month or two before sending em back. As I get closer to purchase time, I'll email you to start sorting details.
The big question is were they worth it? What's the change to the handling? Has braking changed at all? The stock spindles are known to flex a bit with BBK.
Yeah not a lot of driving going on at the moment thanks to perpetual "lockdowns", so cannot comment on whether there is any drastic change here.
@@Bbeavis will you make a video on how they changed the handling and any other changes you noticed?
@@JasonSmith-tk5eb I would like to see that video too. I've been reducing unsprung weight a few pounds at a time and don't really notice much. Perhaps if I had done it all at once I would have.
@@Bbeavis following up on this. Still haven't seen anything from anyone on these. Good, bad, ugly? What's the story? Planning on adding ABS and these have provisions for this too. Would love to hear how they're working out.
@@JasonSmith-tk5eb I'm not exactly sure what I can tell you other than functionally they do their job, the wheels are still attached to the car and spinning fine and the spindles are holding it all together.
Bearings are handling track abuse, the finish of the keislers is pretty stout, everything looks more or less like new.
Hey, I own a 2.5 SVT with the 16” rims, I’m thinking of getting a set of 15” advanti S1s, just wondering how much difference I would feel in the way of sidewall roll? It’s something I’m keen to do but don’t want to spend money on something that would look great, but not be so nice to drive.
Many many people have been happily running 15" rims on the NB Mk2 model MX-5's for years, myself included. You mention sidewall roll, but in fact it is generally considered that the 15" rim is the superior choice for ideal performance for the MX-5. There's a reason what that diameter is the one of choice for those of us who want a better performing wheel/tyre setup. You wont be disappointed. That said, if you are still running OEM springs/shocks, then that is more likely going to impact the experience of roll than the tyres.
I am waiting for these to come back into stock to order. What rear hub did you use? Standard MR2 or custom? I am planning on using the SADfab moded rear hub and Standard MR2 Front hub.
Modded MR2 hubs, Sadfab style.
Slightly off topic - Is that a tile or vinyl on your garage floor. Looking to paint mine in a few weeks but wondering if there’s a less labour intensive option
It some sort of vinyl-type flooring. It was already there before I came along so I do not know much more unfortunately.
FWIW, I painted my floor white with a special polyaspartic paint. It was actually designed for that application, but 4 years later it is many shades of brown. I wish I had used a tile of some sort. That vinyl looks nice. BTW, a single color floor with no flecks makes it easier to find dropped parts.
Did you stay with the drop spindles? I have a set on the way but im second guessing after reading around....
They work perfect for me. What have you heard in your reading that makes you doubt your decision?
@@Bbeavis I've read that folks were seeing flex in the rear toe. I've also found a few posts indicating the setup was very difficult because of the geometry correction baked into them?
Did you find it so?
Thanks for taking the time to reply!
@@AndyFuntown Not something I noticed. But I am also not an expert driver so maybe I just am not that in tuned to finer details of the suspension.
@@Bbeavis that makes two of us, I'll just install them and send it 🙂 I'm working out the setup on my LS3 Miata, thanks for the videos and info!
Disappointing to hear that Keisler didn't include helpful info for the swap...sounds like Ikea-related issues with extra hardware and nonexistent diagrams...
Looking forward to an eval after you get some seat time with this...👍...
Thanks Paul, Keisler clearly know how to make a quality product, while I'm sure the cost to manufacture them is high and the volumes are low, nontheless for the price I paid I think it's still fair to expect it to be well documented and tested.
Long-term update on these spindles???
I'm not sure what I can tell you other than they do their job, the wheels are still attached to the car and spinning fine and the spindles are holding it all together.
@@Bbeavis that answered my question 👌👌
do you weighs it and see the weight distribution?
Based on the information on their website, the rear Keisler weights 2.69 LBS vs OEM at 6.58 LBS
What part of the hub fails? This has filled me with horror😳
Ive found some piccies online..i know where to check now.
Hard to explain in text, but as you had discovered, google has the answers :-P Essentially the hub mating surface, the part the wheel bolts to, can fatigue, crack, and you end up with no wheel.
Looks good and a solid piece...but why? What did i miss?
Same. What’s the benefit?
With price in mind, as it's the hardest part to swallow, these just wouldn't make sense for most people.
But in my particular situation I actually needed to replace some worn parts anyway, AND, for the actual benefits over replacing OEM for OEM, there is the suspension geometry correction, weight reduction, and shock length benefits.
@@Bbeavis ah ok, makes sense.
Lower CG, but the suspension geometry is still where it was designed to function. That means better camber, better bump steer, and better suspension adjustment range. Picture how a double wishbone suspension moves, it's more linear the closer to neutral design point it is on it's arc of motion (unless it was designed perfectly linear, which miata is not.) They also have negative camber built in, so you can get more if you want. Plus, if you don't have what I consider to be dumb "adjustable length" shocks, you can fit more shock stroke in the extra room you've gained with longer shocks, which means more travel (potentially, need double springs...)
They don't have provisions for dust shields, so driving in the rain kind of sucks as your pads and rotors will be getting wet constantly.
And the biggest one, you get rid of shitty stock miata front hubs, but you could manage that without the drop spindles...
@@pontiacg445 Ah for my car I only went rear keislers, OEM front uprights still. My front hubs are already upgraded and I didn't have the balls to sneak more money from the wife for the front set.