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I’ve been hauling for many years and also have an extensive experience in logistics from beginning to end. Based on your tips in your video, I have some additional tips and suggestions. 1. Best to put heavy items in the center of the trailer. Not the front or the back. Most weight should be slightly ahead of the trailer axles. 2. Do not twist your tow safety chains. If your chains are too long that you have to twist them, links need to be removed. Twisting will give uneven tensions and weaken the chain if it may be under stress. 3. From my experience, this has happened twice and I was “lucky” enough to experience both ways to have your chain. When crossing your chains, if the trailer disconnects, the trailer will go side to side. If you attach them straight, the trailer will continue straight. 4. All towing moving connections need grease. Yes, that shinny ball needs grease. Couplers and balls can wear out quickly and cause the trailer to disconnect from the vehicle. This also goes for 5th wheel king pins. 5. Drive the appropriate speed. Do not drive too slow or too fast. It’s best to drive as close as you can near the speed limit in most areas. Don’t drive 55mph on a fwy with a speed limit of 80mph. If you can’t safely travel close to the posted speed limit, get off that fwy until you can. 6. Use turnouts. In California, you’re required to let traffic pass if there is 5 vehicles behind you. It’s polite and keeps people from doing something unsafe to pass you. 7. Expect the unexpected. This is an important one. Other drivers will do the stupidest things that can cause you to be involved in an accident. Stay alert and continue to scan to the road for these drivers. These drivers sometimes give hints what they are going to do. Two seem to be the most common. Jumping in your space cushion and slamming on their brakes. The other is drivers not looking or coming up to speed when they come onto the fwy. 8. Tire blowouts can be a symptom of suspension or weight issue. If parts are worn, it can cause tires not to be aligned. This will cause uneven ware or excessive tire heat. 9. Watch other drivers. There is so many people that will not alert you of a problem you’re towed vehicle is having, but they will stare at you as they pass. If you’re getting an unusual amount of stares, you should stop and do another walk around to figure out why they are staring. 10. Relax! People that are fearful or stressed while towing tend to make bad or extreme decisions that can hurt you and other people. Run every scenario you can think of through your mind and what you need to do when it happens. This will relax you and you will automatically handle the situation in an emergency without even thinking about it. Safe travels everyone!
You nailed a ton of things right on the head. First off past when you can stay in the right lane . You're on your vacation you're not trying to make money doing what you're doing .I've been driving truck for a long time and I dread camper season a lot of inexperienced people in the Middle Lane going extra slow and then you dangerously passed them on the right. When you pass a camper anytime driving a tractor trailer that is 13 5 ft tall you take a lot of drag off that camper and it could be a bad situation if they're not correctly loaded. Just remember be safe and mindful of others on the highway.
On the crossing the chains one other thing I would be concerned about is the trailer running into your tow vehicle. The tongue dragging on the ground will slow the trailer a small amount--at least compared to riding up on the chains. Also that would seemingly put less strain on the chains.
Here is a tip from a prof truck driver and heavy equipment hauler. Never and I mean NEVER but a twist in a metal link chain. In the event of a sudden extreme tug on the chain, the twisting of the chain in trying to reach its full length will multiply the force on the individual link where it is twisted and may result in an unexpected failure of the chain. If your chain is to long and touching the ground then remove one or more links. This can be accomplished by crossing the chains or moving the hook up one link. Caution must be taken in that you do not make your chains to short causing them to bind in a turn.
Yep, as soon as I heard that, I was like, Noooo. I've never driven an RV or truck but am a flight attendant and know there is way less strength in a seat belt that is twisted.
I agree i can say I never thought of twisting chains like that my gut told me it was not safe and noticed they were not crossed either when he hooked up also another point missed when you have no connection in the power hookup you also have no electric brakes on the trailer only the break away would kick in running off the trailer battery other than thant there is some common sense tips that are good
@Tucker Latham I think he meant as tension is put on the already twisted chain and it tries to reach it's full length it will twist in the opposite direction putting more tension on the single weak link.
@Tucker Latham What he is saying is when pressure is exerted on the chain it tries to get to full length and if there is a twist in it, there wil be extreme pressure on the twisted link.
Thanks for tips. I enjoy your videos. Here are two additional suggestions. 1. make sure that the ball mount on your tow vehicle is at the proper height so that the trailer rides level. 2. If you are new, practice hitching, backing and parking. I bought my first camper 1 year ago. I had never towed anything. I practiced hitching and unhitching. I also took my trailer to a large empty parking lot, set up cones, and practiced backing in, from both directions. I now feel pretty confident in my backing skills. Thanks again for your enjoyable and helpful videos!
I've worked around RVs since the 1990s and you guys are the best on UA-cam when it comes to RVing advise. My wife and I love your videos. I currently work for a rental company called Airstream 2 Go and I watch your videos to see if I'm missing anything that my clients need to know when renting our trailers. Keep up the awesome work.
Terrific advice, especially about speed, brakes, and fatigue. You guys really speak well together, too, not talking all over each other! You're fun to watch. Keep up the good work.
Use your key fob to lock and unlock tow vehicle doors. This activates marker lights and brake lights on the trailer making it easy for one person to check lights. Carry a can of contact cleaner. It’s perfect for cleaning out trailer electrical connectors.
We have lived full time in an RV since 1998 and have traveled east and west. Through trial and error, we have found that the setup we now have is most efficient for the weight we haul (our dually truck and 38' fifth wheel weigh approx. 24.5k). We installed an air-filled, shock-absorbing pin box before we purchased the rig we now have, which already had a suspension system called Mor/Ryde. We didn't know how invaluable that system was, combined with load range H tires, until we had to have the system replaced two years ago (due to age and a broken spring bracket we happened to see). After the repair and replacement, we now only have to deal with the normal wear and tear on our tires, replacing them as needed. Prior to this setup, we had numerous issues with tire wear and/or blowout problems, using the either trailer tires or truck tires that were the typical load range E. I didn't even know of a load range H until we got this rig! I really think heavier rigs such as RVs need heavier-duty tires, which can be purchased online (ebay) for much less than at a regular tire store. I simply call ahead and ask a friend (if available) for a suggested shop, and then call the shop for their address and how much they would charge to install a tire I have shipped to them. This has worked the best for us since our first tire issues with our 28' rig back in '99!
Hi guys. I've learned my lessons well and pretty much in tune with your advice. Let me tell you about my first cross country pull. So first one of my leveling bars falls down but not off, dragging it well over 100 miles. Then, I did not know how to control the aftermarket trailer breaks, causing me to lurch forward and back. Needless to say, there was no traffic behind me for a few miles. And here's the kicker. I'm travelling along in the right lane through a construction zone, cones lined up on the shoulder. All of a sudden I saw a cop waving frantically at me to stop. I pulled over safely and he caught up to me and said "Look what your doing to the cones". I looked back and saw a mile of upended cones strewn all over the shoulder. The cop said, "Look at your pull out steps, their in open position!" So I guess the old saying, "Experience is the best teacher" will keep me in good stead for this year's cross country trip.
Heyyyy I was working that work zone (Traffic Flagger)(NOT 😊) when that happen!!! I name my cones to mess with my crew when they hit or drag them! HEY you just hit/kill Kenny (South Park)!
Hello...My name is Danny...I have been a professional truck driver for awhile with just under 4 million miles since getting behind a wheel and now an instructor for those pliable minds of mush who aspire to become truck drivers. I am viewing your video here and when it came to tires and pressures you recommend for you, I thought I should chime in. Well I think you may have it wrong. The number 1 cause of blowouts on big rigs, that has not run over something, is under inflation of the tires. I run on my rig 100 psi on all 18 wheels and in all kinds of weather. The main problem in the southwest in high temps is running tires under inflated. The tires when they are not inflated to proper pressures will actually run hotter which increases pressure in the tires resulting in blow outs. I suggest that you might want to look into what the MFG of your trailer is recommending, for the size of the tire it comes with, and the pressure for those and stay close to it. One more thing. Those big strands of tire tread that you find along the roads, that we truck drivers affectionately call gators, most of those and I do mean most are not re-treads. They are actually virgin tires, meaning non retreads, that come from under inflated tires not over inflated. Enjoy you long honeymoon...perhaps when I retire, which will be my honeymoon, our paths might cross. Remember, keep the shiny side up...=)
sorry but I disagree, tires have pressure inflation maximums on the side wall, if your vehicle is lighter than the max weight for that tire it is ok to drop the pressure, google it
You can disagree if you'd like. However, I don't think you read what I really said. I suggest you re-read it. I don't need google. Seriously you need to learn a better way of finding out facts besides a search engine. Perhaps more real time life experience without a PC or any other electronic devise. Myself along with thousands of other professional semi tractor trailer drivers that drive this nation and have been doing so for longer than you might of lived, will continue to keep our tires inflated to what we know is best in all types of weather and geographical locations. By the way, those max pressures you read on the sidewalls of tires, are related to cargo weight not highway road temperatures.
Excellent video! Obviously the voices of experience and common sense. I have been Airstreaming for over 10 years now, and I can testify to the validity of their points made in this video. Thank you!
Great advice! I would highly recommend purchasing a TST Tire Monitoring System if you tow a single axle trailer. We experienced a blow out several years back and before we stopped the Airstream Bambi the tire came apart and tore up the aluminum panel above the wheel. One additional tip is to never allow anyone except yourself to torque your lug nuts. Tire shops always put the lug nuts on beyond Mfg specs. We also experienced a driver’s side tire loss on a hot day when all the lug nut failed. The tire literally passed us on the highway. The good news was the Airstream rolled along straight and true on the hub with zero sway.
My husband and I are considering Full-timing for retirement. About a year and a half out. I am scouring the internet and there is so much good information out there from people like YOU! Thank you so much. I love everything you post and the two of you are such a cute couple
I love this video, I know it was 4 years ago, but the advice remains so very important for safety. I love Ford trucks and I love Airstream trailers. I hope You guys are still at it and you're enjoying life. Stay safe and God bless
Hope I am not duplicating another comment. I watched this a while ago. Please!!You are not undercover highway patrol. Even though you are going the speed limit and those other people are idiots, stay on the right lane unless you are passing, and on two way traffic roads, try to pull over and let the speed demons pass. I have seen people towing travel trailers with 15 vehicles piling up on their bumper, when there were numerous opportunities to pull over and let them pass. It only takes a few minutes and creates a lot of good will for yourself and the rest of us.
+Mark VanHaverbeke Well said, Mark. As a guy who lives in the NC mountains, and also a motorcyclist, it drives me CRAZY when RV people won't pull over. Now that I have a camper, I'll make damn sure that I never have 15 cars or bikes lined up behind me. You can't always pull over, but when you can, DO!
John H , I'd be pulled over all the time on the way back from Sydney NS. If the speed limit is 55, how do you not forever have 3 or more cars behind you wanting to pass?
Yes, you need to be ready to tow in case you are ever forced to do so. For example, your husband could have some sort of accident and you might be the only person who could tow the rig. Plus it’s nice if you can give your husband a break every once in a while. We recommend that you get some experience during your travels.
Thanks for the tips! I had a friend who was killed last year towing a stock trailer over loaded with polo ponies. 3 of the horses were also killed. Unfortunately in the horse world too often I see people completely disregard safety rules. It actually made me a little anxious about towing the little pop up we recently got. My budding camping adventures almost came to an end! Learning as many things as possible about towing has really helped me be a lot more comfortable. My husband and I both tow the pop up. He makes me do all the backing because he says I'm a natural at it. I think he just doesn't want to do any backing!
+Melissa Garrett +Melissa Garrett Wow, we're so sorry to hear about your friend. :( Your comment is a sobering reminder of what's at stake here. On a happier note, we're glad you found our video helpful. We've done a video about backing up a trailer too that you may like. Safe travels! ua-cam.com/video/lzlOfBGr1i4/v-deo.html
+Long Long Honeymoon I'll definitely watch the backing video and make the husband watch it at least 10 times! He really does suck at it! Also I'm going to share these videos with all my horse friends! It's important to be safe AND keep our over priced spoiled four legged friends safe in the horse trailer!
I'm glad there are couples like you that are taking the time to post videos like this to help others. I've towed different trailers for many years, and would agree with 95% of what you preach in your videos. Great job and keep up the good work.
I really appreciate the videos you folks make! Thank you. I really liked that Kristy emphasized getting a tow vehicle that can STOP the camper... I got my CDL-A a few years back, and went to drive long haul for a trucking company. I was surprised the first time I felt the sensation of having 80,000 lbs. behind me, going down a mountain! Travel trailers aren't that heavy, of course, but I can't agree with you more that you must have adequate - and hopefully more than adequate - braking ability on your vehicle. I also saw quite a few travel trailers, utility trailers, boats, etc., totaled on the side of the road from the unfortunate accidents that happen out there. Don't be 'that guy' who loses his investment and his vacation to the laws of gravity. Have more brakes than you need! Be safe out there.
Great tips! Credibility is everything, and traveling in 48 states builds an excellent level of experience! Really loved the tips and will surely use them when my wife and I move back to the states and start RVing again!
I think knowing the clearance height and width of your rig should be memorized and/or posted on the dashboard to avoid clipping obstacles would be a good tip to add to your list.
Thanks for the valuable tips on towing. I' m a real novice. I just purchased a 31 ft Dutchmen and plan on spending lots of time traveling. Recently widowed, so its a solo venture, so I am a little hesitant about the how tos of rv life.. My husband was a mechanic and I have always been co- pilot. Your videos are excellent and give me all the sensible knowledge that I will need on the road to keep me safe. See you on the road someday!
Great tips and advise! Steven Lesher, not sure of the towing capacity of your truck, but I pull my 27 1/2 Cherokee travel trailer with a 2011 Toyota Tundra and don't have any issues. In fact I just drove it about 1200 miles from Ohio to Colorado and had smooth sailing. Just a side note, would never attempt it without my trusty assistant: weight distribution and sway control!
I already subscribed, weeks ago. I'm getting over major surgery, using my time to get ready for our big adventure, our early RV retirement. I've done tons of research, and you guys are just the best! I grew up camping, but Dad did the towing. Truth is, we're a little nervous, and don't understand the various tech packages. I knew your video would be simple and straightforward, and it is. A great place to start. Thanks again.
Love the video. Good tips. One additional item on tires is tire age. My trucker friends won't let their tires exceed 3 years in age. I have also read 5 years. But either way, check the manufacture date and get rid of old tires. It's marked on each tire.
worked in the tire field for about a decade on and off anything on a passenger tire past 5 years and you will start running into dry rot issues. travel trailer tires mostly fall into the same catagory. commercial tires can be in service up to 10 years before they will not recap them any more.
From years of experience....you guys are right on. I like listening to others who might have good ideas and take those ideas on. You constantly learn, If you think you know everything get off the road!!!! A good tip that has saved me from accidents is to look far ahead and see what the other driver is going to do. It takes time to read the road environment but when you got it down you avoid accidents. I was a professional driver, all my career big rigs, buses, military, all with no accidents! Including in my pov. Oh also a instructor for big rigs as well. 1 rule to learn, learn how to back! Anyone can go forward, it's going backwards where you can get into a pickle. Thanks!
Good tips for people. I have been towing for many many year. One thing I couldn't help but critique (because I have noticed it is a common mistake among RV'ers.) tip 15. Anti sway bars and stabilizer bars. No. Anti Sway is a friction bar which reduces sway. Though a person can, it is not recommended you back up with one on. The other bars which you are specifically utilizing, are weight distribution bars. They are not stabilizer bars. Though they do stabilize the load a bit and help to eliminate or reduce the porpoising effect, there main duty is weight distribution. Also, I have to say, I like the tidbit about proper tow vehicle. I have seen this way way to often. People towing to large of a trailer with to small of a TV. There seems to be a lot of Tundra and F150 owners who are primary culprits. Just because the trailer with all gear loaded is still under the weight specifications of the TV doesn't mean you should do it. Just ask a good friend of mine who was towing a 29 foot trailer with his 2012 F-150 (he was still under his towing and cargo specs by 800 pounds and traveling at 50 MPH when he totaled both rigs because of a severe bounce coupled with a heavy sway condition from a passing semi. The "tail wagged the dog" off the road in this case.
Good tip on the braking capability for tow vehicle.. I would like to offer one more from my years of pulling equipment with a F250 diesel tow vehicle. When considering tow vehicles, think about diesel vs. gas carefully. Diesels are great for torque compared to gas engines, but they are heavier vehicles, more expensive to maintenance, can require a dealership for repairs and finding auto-diesel can sometimes be frustrating. I can say from experience filling up with the semi's is not much fun waiting and the pumps they use pump wayyyy faster and nozzles are bigger than the auto-diesel pumps. Good video.
That was the BEST video on UA-cam I’ve seen on towing! I was trying to explain to someone how to pull a trailer over the phone and was looking for videos for them to watch, and there are just none out there! There are a lot about backing up, and hooking up, but there are none about turning getting on and off of the on and off ramps or switching lanes. Thanks again this video! Stay safe out there!
Great tips, guys. I do want to raise one fairly major concern, however....the tip about lowering the tire pressures due to the pressure increasing when the tires get hot. I mention this because I believe the recommendation to DROP the pressure is a potential safety issue. I think your advise to speak with a tire expert is a very good one, as he will tell you to NEVER drop the air pressures to "cater" for the possibility of the pressures increasing above the COLD psi level - as the tires are actually designed for that increase in psi when hot. All tire pressures are to be checked when the tires are COLD. It is perfectly NORMAL and EXPECTED for the tire pressures to increase ABOVE the COLD pressure, when in use, and one should NEVER drop the pressures when the tires are hot to get the pressures back under the tire maximum COLD psi. (nor, to under inflate the tires on the basis that the pressures will increase above the maximum COLD pressure level!) That would cause a significant reduction in load capacity and potentially overheat the tires, due to added flex in the sidewalls for the loads requiring the maximum cold pressure (say, 50 psi, as an example). Dropping the pressure below the recommended level for the loaded trailer is a major safety concern. It is quite fine (and expected) for the tires to increase psi well above the 50 psi example, when in use and hot. They are designed for this! Now, one should realize that there are 3 things to consider here when deciding on the correct COLD psi.... 1. The tire manufacturer provides a maximum safe COLD psi, marked right on the tirewall, for that specific tire. The psi should never be raised above this level when the tire is COLD. The maximum load capacity of the tire will be at this maximum psi level. The pressure WILL rise above this level on the road when the tire heats up. This is NORMAL and the tire is designed for this pressure in use! 2. The TRAILER manufacturer has a DIFFERENT minimum tire PSI rating, which is the one to actually use, for the load on the specific trailer. It is almost always BELOW the maximum psi rating for the tire itself, as all vehicle and trailer manufacturers specify tires with a slightly greater load capacity that what is needed, as a safety buffer. 3. The thing to check here, is that while the trailer manufacturer's rating would almost always be BELOW the tire's maximum psi rating on the sidewall, if it is ABOVE the tire's maximum rating then you should NEVER increase the psi to above the maximum level on the tire sidewall (again, always checked when cold). BUT then you should carefully check that the specific tire's maximum LOAD CAPACITY is sufficient for your trailer's loaded mass, at the tire's maximum (cold) psi level you have chosen. You may need to change the tires to a higher load capacity tire (generally, one with more plies, and from quality tire manufacturers). Sorry for the long post. I felt it important to mention this as it is such a safety concern. Your advise to check with a tire expert is very good advice, if there is any doubt or confusion at all, with regards critical tire issues. Love your videos, and have subscribed!
Barry Timm Thanks much for your thoughtful post. I agree that everyone should consult a tire professional. Our comments in the video are simply a sharing of insights based upon personal experience (with Goodyear Marathon trailer tires). In the Airstream community, the Goodyear Marathons have a negative reputation. We've achieved the best results by following the approach we discuss in the video.
I would like to make a Cautionary Note about Holding Tanks in general. My understanding most are made from a polycarbonate or fiberglass material, (plastic). Most have a continuous flange around the top portion of the tank. Many are supported by the vehicle chassis frame from this flange. Don’t make the mistake I did thinking it was OK to travel with these tank partially or full. They will crack open and break at this location in due time, creating the worst mistake you made in a long time. Especially if you’re RV has a full metal covered under belly full of insulation? Play it smart, do it yourself or have your dealer inspect and or install additional supports to the tanks underbelly to take the heavy load of these flanges and really support the tanks. Happy travels
They sell nice yellow wide right turn magnets at Amazon that fit the right side of the bumper perfectly. I put one on and it seems to keep that space clear.
Really enjoyed the video. Lots of good tips. I am relatively new with towing a trailer and your videos have saved me a lot of "learning by my mistakes".
Your tire pressure recommendation isn't correct. The maximum pressure listed on the sidewall is max pressure COLD. The COLD max pressure already takes into account the pressure increase from the heat of running the tire. If you try to guesswork "compensate" for that, you'll be under pressure every time, which is more likely to cause the tires to fail when hot.
Correct. Follow tire manufacturers directions they are not suggestions. Trailer tires are not made to have sidewall flex like an automobile tire, sidewall flex causes heat and heat causes de lamination followed by flats. Can be very dangerous. The extra pressure on hot days is what you want for less sidewall flex.
thanks for taking the time to share these tips with us. I especially agree with your thoughts on towing/traveling at off times. It makes a huge difference and the trip more enjoyable. Awh...baby girl! So SWEET!!!
Good tips.We have just bought our fifth caravan (five over 45 years) and always appreciate other people's experiences. The caravan's rear vision camera we fitted has been great. We did the circumnavigation of Australia (25,000km) with no issues.
Get in the habit of checking the hub temp with a feel at each stop or fuel fill up. You can use your hand, but I carry a small digital IR thermometer and hang it on my shifter. A common problem with some trailers is bearing failure. Checking the hubs would provide an early warning!
Cute looking Chihuahua. Excellent tips. The ability to control a tow vehicle is imperative, whether you're actually towing a trailer, or you're carrying a big camper. I've seen plenty of trucks that don't look like they would be capable of towing anything heavier than a small cargo trailer.
Thanks for the vid. All great tips and since tires can be a major issue in hot climates and long trips, for peace of mind, I purchased eight wireless tire monitors that display temp and pressure on both the truck and trailer tandems (EEZTIRE T515 - 8 sensor @ $400). Anymore, I am just not into changing flats in 95+ degree weather on a busy highway and blowing up my wheel wells and fenders. I'll drive at night if necessary.
2 items that I always have learned to carry (not from rv-ing, but because I ranch and haul trailers all the time in horrible conditons) that will help w/ a couple of your 'tips'. 1) For the electrical connection carry a can of CRC QD Electronic cleaner (Quick Drying) 2) If your trailer has tandem axels get a Trailer Aid Ramp for flat tires/blowouts.
Awesome video and I have another bonus tip to bring your list to an even 30. If you are hauling a truck camper make sure all tie-downs are secure and tensioned properly. It only takes 1 bad bump to ruin/end your vacation..
Hey! Im a Army medic and considering buying the flying cloud 19, my specific job makes me frequently think about Personal Safety and Security against theft. I have considered motion activated lights on the outside, a firearm, and an exterior door camera. i would really appreciate any additions you have to this, also i would carry a generator and a motorcycle in the back of my truck, what would be the best measure in your experience to secure those, along with the trailer. Along with all of this, i am curious about the safest and friendliest places to park in your opinion, Thank you so very much, beautiful trailer, beautiful family, amazing video, thank you again.
Subject of hot weather tire pressure. Everybody should check tire pressure at the start of your trip and check again after the first 100 miles of hot weather driving to know for sure how your tire pressure changes and you will know for sure the correct pressure to start with. Just my 2 cents. By the way excellent video and over all great tips. Thank you.
Change to nitrogen instead of air. I started running nitrogen in my service trucks as a test. I found that there is not any difference in tire pressure regardless if you are running in the summer or dead of winter, now all my rolling stock uses nitrogen. Once you change over, you will notice longer tire life and improved gas mileage.
I use a mix of 78% Nitrogen, 21% Oxygen, and 1% Argon. Seems to work okay. FWIW according to the Ideal Gas Law, Nitrogen, Oxygen, and Argon will all exhibit nearly identical changes in pressure due to a change in temperature. Nitrogen doesn't help in this scenario at resisting pressure changes due to temperature. The culprit in some cases is having water vapor in the tires from a compressor without a good air dryer. In that case you may see a significant difference between dry air or nitrogen and moist air. The problem is that there may be moisture already in your tires when you add nitrogen and it wouldn't help much. Dry air is every bit as good as nitrogen. It's a bit cheaper too!
After 30 years racing I can tell you that MrJcjet is exactly right. All that nitrogen is is dry air. Moisture in the tire air is what makes it expand. If you live in a very humid environment then nitrogen is good; In a dry area its worthless and ridiculously over over priced. Plain ole air is 78.1% nitrogen, 21%oxygen and 1% argon. The rest is tiny. Don't waste your money.
As a HVAC contractor, we use nitrogen to pressure check a wide range of pressure vessels. It is a preferred gas because it is not affected by temperature or other variables. As for the cost, a 40 lbs. cylinder of nitrogen cost about $10.00 ( plus the cylinder). With tire that need to be inflated to over 70 psi., it is much easier and quicker. I have never heard of mixing argon and air in a tire, much less being able to control those percentages. This is the procedure we use to fill tires. First, with one tire bead in place, We use nitrogen to flush the tire of ambient air and set the second bead. Once both beads are sealed, we pull the tire on a vacuum down to 800 microns. this is to make sure all air and moisture is pulled out. Then we fill the tire with 100% nitrogen. On load range "E" tires, I am getting at less 30% more life at of them. I have checked tire pressure when the road surface temp. over 150 degrees, or under freezing, tire pressure is the same. If it changes, it is because of leaks. With 15 service trucks on the road, 30% increase in tire life increases my bottom line.
I don't mix my gas. I was just using that as sort of a joke. That's simply the composition of typical air. Also FWIW it's not really possible to pull a vacuum on a tire without separating the beads. A typical 5 degree bead seat with a bead lip will only hold a very slight amount of pressure before it releases. Truck tires with 15 degree bead seats will not hold any pressure before unseating. (these are all of your tires with rim sizes ending in .5 such as 16.5 or 22.5). I'm not sure how you're pulling a vacuum without double beadlock wheels. Nitrogen is not any better than regular air for expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. That's just a scientific fact about the physical properties of air and nitrogen. The difference is the water vapor or liquid water. Dry air is just as good as nitrogen.
Great video. One thing I always do after hooking up is that I test my trailer brakes. I start moving then manually engage the trailer brakes. They should quickly stop the entire rig. This will give the entire electric brake system a check and give you peace of mind that everything is good. Looking forward to your next video.
Some may ask, "Why do I need to make Wide right turns versus LEFT? Because you have less distance to make a right turn versus left. A left turn can utilize the ENTIRE intersection and you have more distance to turn. A right turn is a couple of feet. Thought I would add that in because sometimes the common sense doesn't kick in :)
This is VERY helpful to me. My wife and I are making the transition from a large Coleman tent trailer to a 22' Ultralight. I'm a person that prefers to err on the side of safety, particularly in a situation where an innocent could be impacted by my stupidity. Thanks for the 29 tips!
Wonderful tips that every newbie should write down and tape to their dashboard..I'll give you one more that you can put in another video sometime: Know the exact height of your rig, including vent or A/C covers, especially if you are pulling a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Measure it yourself; don't rely on the spec sheets in the owners manuals. Occasionally, clearing a low structure may come down to fractions of an inch.. My 5th wheel Fleetwood Wilderness would not have fit through the old covered bridge in this video. You need to know if you're going to fit BEFORE driving under something low and smashing your A/C unit, or WORSE! Keep up the great videos. Love you guys and the service you are providing.
I agree generally with a few exceptions. Full liquid tanks are a lot safer than half full. They generally should be either all the way full or all the way empty. It's an issue with fluid slosh and potential for harmonic frequency building and causing or adding to a trailer sway condition. You'll never ever see a tanker half full on the highway for a reason. Water tanks are small - is it a huge deal? maybe not, but ideally half full is the worst case scenario. Also the trailer sway devices are bandaids for poor engineering. Trailer sway is predictable based on math and physics. A properly engineered and loaded trailer will not exhibit sway. Using a baindaid to dampen the oscillations is a good way to end up upside down. If the baindaid fails (they're usually friction based systems) you can end up in a bad situation very fast at a much higher speed than you would have otherwise found the problem and possibly not had a crash. (I'm not talking about load distribution here, but sway control.) Fix the trailer or get a different one. Don't put a friction dampener on it and pray that your $100 bolt on bandaid doesn't fail. Airstream trailers are very well engineered and well constructed. A 20 year old Airstream is still a better trailer than 95% of the new stuff out there. I would not expect any sway issues with an airstream.
Thanks for your comments -- you make an excellent point about half full water tanks. I've never heard anyone raise that before with regard to RVs, but your analysis makes sense. Thanks for sharing!
I tend to be a little blunt in my writing as a result of the type of work I typically do where we all tend to be as curt and concise as we can. Thank you for the video. It should be helpful for a lot of folks. I'm a physicist and I haven't done the calculation, but back of the envelop estimate would probably be that the water tank sway with even 100 gallons is diminimus compared to the rest of the weight of a typical RV and why not save some fuel with lighter tanks. That's assuming it is centered at the axles. I believe most RVs have water tanks over the axles - and they should. If the water tanks were out at the ends of the trailer - then it would be cause for concern to have them half full. I don't think a sway control device hurts anything as an additional safety measure for a properly balanced trailer. Only that if you do have a trailer that exhibits harmonic sway you absolutely should not add one as a fix. That can be dangerous because the sway compounds with speed and the friction based sway control will allow you to get to a higher speed where something as simple as getting wet on the friction surface may cause a catastrophic loss of control.
Nonsense. Quality of a trailer isn't just subjective, it has nothing to do with sway. Sway results (primarily) from wind impacts (the wind blowing from the side ) and from buffeting by large vehicles (other travel trailers; 5th wheels; Class A, B, or C; buses, and tractor/trailer rigs). Improper load distribution and hauling waste or fresh water are both extremely important. I never haul black or gray water! It's marginally acceptable to carry fresh water, especially in desert type environments, but bottled water would be better. The "sway bar" devices mentioned here DO make a difference, as opposed to the commenter here! At higher speeds, especially under high side winds or traffic impacts, use the "sway bar". Newer vehicles, like the 2017 Ford F250, don't experience sway like other trucks since the computer will detect a sway condition, then apply the correct trailer brakes, to cancel out the sway/fishtail. I didn't believe that, but my new 2017 F250 pulling a 34.5 foot travel trailer (which runs over 8,000 pounds wet) exhibited zero sway/fishtail in high side winds without using the device most people refer to as a friction "sway bar". I invite the commenter to drive across Hoover Dam on a typical day, alongside trucks and other campers, and say sway doesn't exist, nor that a "sway bar" doesn't help. The associated "pucker factor" will speak for itself. No matter the quality of a camper, he will learn the feel associated with sway/fishtail.
Great advice, with the exception of.. Manufacturers max tire pressures take into account, and have a built in buffer for, the extra pressure caused by heat, so you should use max tire pressure. Additionally, any under inflation causes the tires to heat up more. The best thing one can do for both tires AND fuel mileage is to inflate to max, and KEEP YOUR SPEED DOWN! Trailer tires are NOT designed to run 70 MPH on hot days (or even cool days!) Most blowouts are caused by towing too fast! Our Ram 2500 gets around 14.6 MPG while towing our 7k travel trailer at 55-56 MPH. Going 61-63 MPH decreases our mileage to around 12 MPG. That's 81 miles farther at 55-56 MPH on ONE 30 gallon tank!!!! And no, truckers don't get mad at you! Especially if you blink your lights when it's safe for them to merge in front of you, and are courteous to them! Remember, the max towing speed in most states is 55. I can't stress enough the importance of weight relieving hitch systems AND added anti sway gear. Additionally, I can't imagine pulling our 10k pound Arctic Fox without an exhaust brake!!! I cringe when I see a 1/2 ton gas motor pickup passing us pulling a 30' trailer at 70 MPH! We've been full time and towing for about 6 years now, so do have experience.
Came across this video (starting to binge watch Loloho) and one thing about your brake controller use really stuck out to me. On the road, you should never need to activate your trailer brakes independently of the tow vehicle unless 1) you have zero brake pressure and are just trying to get stopped (but should be used in conjunction with engine braking) or 2) using the trailer brakes to hold you on a hill (handy for dead stop hill starts with manual transmissions though most modern vehicles have hill start assist). Most modern brake controllers (integrated and third party) are called proportional controllers. Meaning, they proportionally apply voltage to the trailer brakes based on the deceleration requirements of the vehicle (using integrated sensors). This means, the trailer brakes with the tow vehicle by equally distributing the braking load across the two vehicles opposed to an uneven distribution which will lead to increased wear on the brakes of one vehicle or the other. Also, it’s not a bad idea to perform an in-flight check a few miles after the pre-flight check and ideally checking on the hitch, couplers, chains, light connections, jack (some manual styles do occasionally unwind on the road) and most importantly, tires and hubs. Also not a bad idea to check tires and hubs anytime you make a pit stop.
This is what the gain is for, to adjust how “hard” your trailer brakes are working at the start of braking, then proportionately advance with pressure. They are there to stop the trailer not the tow vehicle, to work in unison. The manual engage is for checking the function of the system, to bring your trailer back in line if it is swaying all over for whatever reason, and of course that “oh shit” moment. My two cents, I came to the comment section to look for this information and correction.
With regard to tire pressure, most if not all tires have a recommend cold tire pressure. The tires should be inflated to that psi before the vehicle is moved and before being affected by that days sun. The cold tire pressure compensates for road temps and solar gain. Love the tip!
Just a quick note on Tip #6: Tell me you don't have the emergency brake wire attached to your (left) safety chain (like I realized I was doing)? Looks that way in the video. I would think it better to attach the wire to the hitch itself.
Spot on, as a trucker with 35 years safe driving I could not agree more. Just bought a new travel trailer last month and pulled it with my f150 for a 350 mile round trip, hade no problems but the f150 is not enough truck to pull this light trailer of 6500 pound gvw. I got back home and traded for a f350. I have not pulled it yet but I am sure it will be much safer feeling.
From an old ex- truck driver who pulls a 26 ft box for fun on days off now, have met and dealt with a lot of RVs in my travels,please give my fellow road bros some thought when you finally see us sneaking up on you in your mirrors with a 80,000+ semi an your butt puckers up a bit. We are not all road warriors if you find you are able to pass us do it but don't set up camp in front of us at 60 mph , move on or follow please.You're on holidays we are on a schedule,you're out weighed and gonna lose when we tangle on a road.We're trying to get home to our families, yours is likely in the back seat.Safe travels for all.
Thanks for the tips. We have had fifth wheels and motorhomes but now have a Honda Odyssey (with tow package added) and a new Flagstaff Micro-Lite and have towed it back home from the dealer (250 miles with EQ hitch and sway) with no problems at all. We find 65-70 MPH is good for the Honda Transmission. Thanks , Mike
I've found that a small juice can with the top cut off makes a perfect cover to slip over the plug when the trailer is parked. I'd wrap a paper shop towel around the plug put the plug in the can and slip the plug under the propane tanks cover.
@ 14:50 Seans doing the happy "Woo Hoo, I don't have to drive, I don't have have to drive" dance. I recognized it immediately. Wives generally have know clue the mental prep their men have to go through to get you to your destination. My wife drove our rig for the first time last weekend and it was such a welcome relief. I really hate the driving part. I just want to get there.
I have one other tip if I may, I'm towing a 30 ft travel trailer with a 2012 Ford F150 crew cab equipped with the towing package, powered with the V6 ego boost. That includes sway control, electric brakes and engine braking for down hills. I still experienced some unexpected sway from time to time and buddy it will scare you to death!!! Realizing this is a problem that shouldn't go uncheck, I added a left hand sway bar, got it on Amazon.com for approximately $40.00, best 40 bucks I have ever spent, now I can take on Interstates, 18 wheelers and wind no problem, this added sway bar has really, really sobbed the problem... After my installation I read somewhere on the Internet that suggested a left hand sway bar if your towing a camper trailer longer than 24 foot. I hope this will help someone.
The best way to understand trailer sway might be like this: When you have too much mass ,toward the rear of the trailer , when you steer ,the mass in the back in the trailer steers you even more (with leverage behind it). When you correct ,it does the opposite ,in the opposite direction, and it gets worse with each sway.. Now....if you use the l trailer brake only feature on your brake controller (while peeing your pants) the trailer braking action will tend to straighten your steering up again. Something to consider,and I am not assuming you have an airstream, shocks on trailers also help with minimizing sway, even on small single axle trailers. I have long suspected that on some trailer suspension systems that :when one spring is fully compressed and the other spring is fully uncompressed ,your axle is actually "steering" the trailer a little because the geometry has changed. When the blast of wind from a passing 18 wheeler tilts your trailer, maybe that situation occurs. I have seen after market shock kits for lippert. I think they also exist for Dexter. Years ago I installed 88 bronco 2 rear shocks on a small single axle trailer many years ago. The difference in handling was very noticeable.
Great tips, Sean and Kristy! I would add the following suggestions: 1. Using remote pressure gauges (they mount on the air inlets) on the trailers tires - for frequent travelers like yourselves - they give you an advanced warning of any pressure rise on a hot day. 2. Make sure your trailer's hubs are WELL greased and, at rest area stops - check to see just how hot they got (they shouldn't be hot if well greased and you're not riding your trailer's breaks all the time). 3. Your F-250 truck is definitely awesome, and I too drive an F-250 Diesel towing an FB22 Jay-flight travel trailer, which leaves you with plenty of "oomph", since it's at the lower end of the truck's towing capacity. For folks with Diesel Trucks who, like myself, don't intend to move on to 5th wheelers - I would recommend installing a 100 Gal fuel tank on the bed. Not all gas stations are rig friendly, and you've already described the need for WIDE turns when towing the trailer. Carrying your own "gas station" frees you from the need to stop at cramped, "rig unfriendly" gas stations AND also allows you to gas up at the cheapest stations - thus saving you some $$ :-). That's it for today! Keep on trucking and thanks for the awesome video(s)!
I've watched the majority of you UA-cam video's. Please post more of your excursions, your one of the best. Very educational with a touch of humor. Love it.
We have traveled a lot with our travel trailer and have found that for me, not necessarily sayin it's easier for others, but I unhitch the travel trailer from the back of the truck by pulling pin on receiver hitch than unhooking from ball, because unhooking from ball makes me have to do more work by undoing all the sway/weight bars, and having a big ball stick out to catch your shin on, so all the stuff stays on front of camper and for me it's easier to stick the square receiver into the hole than it is to hook up to the ball, (you do have to remove tension from weight bar chains)
I notice when you're dumping that you're wearing flip flops. Your hands may be covered by gloves, but aren't you worried your partially bare feet might carry some bacteria along into your truck or trailer?
He has a composting toilet and both of his holding tanks are only gray water. Heck, doing it this way, if you are only using biodegradable soaps you don't even need a dump station if you are on a dirt road or on BLM land.
Thank You so much for making this very useful video that public can get knowledge of towing. I'm personally like it even though having many years of experience as a over the road driver with 53' semi tractor trailer and heavy loads, I learned more abut camper trailer towing after watching this video. I would like to add a few tips & hope that would be helpful. 1= Continuously watch both mirrors specially blind mirrors and get your eyes moving to prevent of FIXATE. 2= Watch to 6 point of around you which is ( Front & Back ) ( Right & Left ) ( Above & Under ) of your equipment. 3= When you feel start getting JACKKNIFE ( Do Not Panic ) release the Gas pedal, instead of Brake pedal use TRAILER BRAKE & start correcting by gently steering. I hope no one get to this position.
I have not even purchased our first RV yet and I am very glad I watched this video. The last time I did any real towing was when I was still active duty Army long ago. It is so much better to learn from someone else's experience than from an accident.
That is US!! We were in mobile TACS in the Air Force in the 80's and are looking at getting a truck and trailer, so we can park the trailer and drive the truck around the parks. Best of luck to you.
Collecting rocks! Hilarious! When we head out with our teardrop trailer friends, us ladies love to find obsidian in the mountains. "Don't tell our husbands" we say when we pack up the cars with black rocks. Wonderful tips as always.
never towed but just did a 3 week/80000 mile coast to coast. I did the last 2300 in three days. a way different pace from towing , for sure. 1)Always have full gas tank for traveling morning. 2)always make the each stop a multi-task stop. 3)alway keep an eye on gas, had a close call in Texas
Long Long Honeymoon I'm glad yours has treated you so well I've owned a 7.3, a 6.0 and 6.7 and I still have the 7.3 and the 6.7 but the 6.0 kept having oil cooler and egr issues. Hopefully yours gives you lots of years to come!!
Thanks Fred, we just got our truck "bulletproofed" so we have a Bullet Proof Diesel EGR cooler and oil cooler now. As you mention, it's the EGR and oil coolers that gave these engines a bad rep! I'm very happy to have found a reliable solution. Cheers, Sean
Thanks Fred! Really, for all of the 6.0 problems, at least there is no DEF to mess around with. Now that 6.0 is bulletproofed, hopefully we are set with our truck for a while.
Soon to start out full-time RVing. Just purchased a new 2016 Jayco travel trailer and swapped our Outback for a Silverado 2500HD with towing package. We're in the process of getting rid of all our "stuff" and paring down to what we'll need for RV life. As soon as our 12-year-old son is out of school in May, we'll hit the road. (He'll be RV-schooled next year.) That gives us some time to work out any "bugs" in the RV while we're still just a few miles from the dealership. Needless to say, we're excited! Your videos are great, and thanks for all the helpful information!
+Brian Casey Congrats on your new acquisition and your upcoming adventure! Glad to hear that our videos are a help. I think one of these best decisions we've made is to share this info on UA-cam. We've met some great people through our Channel. Hope to see you guys on the road someday. Cheers, Sean
Pulled two trailers for 39 years . Good advice.Always cross your chains to keep the tong from digging in the road . Cut the length of chains to keep from twisting them. Keep em hard and push the plug all the way in. Thanks guys
We are relatively new to Airstreaming and one feature that got "thrown in" due to my wife's most excellent negotiating skills was the back-up camera on the back of the trailer. This comes with a sort of cumbersome visual display unit which sits in the cab of your tow vehicle. With a little effort you can affix this to a surface so that you can see behind your trailer at all times. I have found this to be a very nice feature to see not only what's behind me in my lane but in general what's going on (fast car approaching, someone tailgating, etc.). Knowing these things helps you adjust to your rig in the safest possible position on the road. Ours was wired to work when you have your lights on (not "auto") which is a reminder of another good safety practice.
Great video! My wife and I just bought our first travel trailer last week. Its not as good as an Airstream but, it fit our budget. We both liked your video and will take your advice seriously. You have provided some very valuable information. Thank you and safe travels!
My wife and I are attempting to get back into RV ing. We downsized from a 30 foot to a 19 foot..even when we had the 30 footer we only used it four times. I believe I was a little intimidated with the rig..we feel better with the 19 footer. We are planning on heading out in July in our beautiful State of Maine this July. I have been watching your blogs and I want to thank you for your concise, entertaining and informative information you have given. Keep up the great work and who knows we run into each other in Maine sometimes Thanks Chuck and Diana
Good advice. I need to get better mirrors! Only thing I can add is watch overhead clearances, and pay close attention to detour signs. My worst situation was caused by missing a detour.
Great comments. Besides having good tow mirrors, I installed a Rear-view Camera System on our 5vr and tow vehicle. It was an investment that I think every trailer owner should add to their trailers. You get to see what is going on behind your trailer, as you are driving down the road and you'd be amazed at what goes on. I've had tailgaters as close as 10 feet behind our 5vr while we are going down the road at 60 to 65MPH.
One additional tip is to leave a greater space between you and the vehicle in front which will allow you to make a more controlled stop and avoid the possibility of an accident. The rule is a car length for every 10 miles per hour you're going. With the additional of trailer behind you're overall length has increased. Therefore your distance should increase also. It is disconcerting to see other vehicles fill in your space but be patient and recreate your space. Watch the big rig drivers and note how much most of them leave between themselves and the vehicle in front. Good tips and common sense make for safe travel.
Excellent advice for vanners of all experience !!! Sorry, I didn't learn anything (I have 35+ years towing & trucking in the UK), but it reminded me of the right way we should all tow be it a leftie or rightie !!! I also learned the tire presser code, as well as keep an eye on the date the tires where made, as with us the tires degrade before it wears out. Also in the UK, we use a nose weight scale to get the weight of the van right. That was one of the top tips to have a safe trip. Keep the rubber on the blacktop, & have a safe one the next time you roll out !!! Luv R.
Great tips! One more very important tip that can keep your engine and transmission from overheating when towing up steep grades: Turn your heat and fan on full blast. Open all your windows to keep you and passengers from overheating.This will pull excess heat from the engine. If temps start to increase towards the red zone pull off road and let cool down. If grade very steep and pulling heavy load put in 4WD Low and crawl up Mt if necessary...or just avoid steep grades whenever possible.
This is about the 10th time we've watched this particular video, (plus we've watched all your videos!) We join you on the road next month! Thank you for your down to earth, commonsense not to mention humor. Be well! :)
I’m here to share why you cross your chains. I was crossing my chains, truly, because my dad always told me to “cross the chains” and I’m GLAD I listened... my little cargo trailer was not hooked on the ball well, even though I thought it was! I was thankfully on a slower street, 40mph., when I heard a horrible dragging, I thought it might have been the step... NO.... IT WAS THE TRAILER, which was attached to my RV. that had jumped off the ball. A friend came to help me out and he shared.... when the tongue of the hitch hits the concrete or surface, the crossed chains are there for the hitch to fall on sooooo that the hitch doesn’t dig into the surface AND FLIP!!!! OMG. People listen to your parents even if you don’t know why!
I suffer from depression. It can knock me down to the dark smelly "black" water tank. Your videos are great medicine and help put a smile on this weathered old face.
Your videos are great. The one where you were out of fuel showed some awsome parts of Texas. What would happen if you pulled off a dirt road and went a few miles into an area where you were not bothering anyone? Is it doable? Or will there be an "Easy Rider" moment where the tractor heads are going to beat your skull in? My generator would cool down my unit inside, the awning for shade and my naked Canadian beauty with her high heel black pumps taking in the afternoon sunset! A real depression buster!
@@bocabec6744 Well, there is some risk wherever you go. I think you are probably safer in rural areas than urban areas, but I guess that is debatable. So I would go wherever your "naked Canadian beauty with her high heel black pumps" feels most comfortable doing her thing. :D
I've started watching your videos recently. Got out of trailer travel about 10 years ago. But last fall we purchased a 30 ft long Sportsmen 260BHLE (no sliders, didn't want the extra weight) with the intent of traveling the west starting in May, but that's not going to happen right now. I am a strong believer of "Not Having The Tail Wag The Dog." We have a Ford E250 High Top Van with Trailer Pack and it weighs 6000 lbs, 1200 lbs more than the trailer. I also believe that the high top van (8 foot tall) breaks-up the wind because I never had a sway problem in the west with the old trailer and trucks on the 2 lane roads would not push the trailer around. I'm enjoying your how to and not to videos, reminders on new tips. Thank you.
This is first of your videos that I have seen and I instantly subscribed. I hope to start my travel trailer journey next year and appreciate the "20" valuable and practical tips.
On the tire pressure... I used to do the same thing you mentioned on both the RV and the boat (the boat gets WAY more miles put on it than the RV.) I always had the issue with tires blowing out a ~1000 miles or even less than that. When I went and put 4 new Marathons on my boat after a blow out, the guy said no matter what, inflate to the max PSI. No matter what. The tires are designed to take that inflation from the heat. Since then, been keeping the tires at 50psi (205 75 R14.) Going on almost 2000 miles on these tires, running like a top! Living down in south east Texas hauling 75-80mph down the interstate 200-300 miles, 110 degrees, no issue at all. Just my experience
I towed a 36ft. 5th wheel for 18years in the U S and Canada never had an accident or blown a tire lucky i guess and every thing you guys have said is true kudos to you both I had to find out the hard way my tow vehicle was a 3500 dodge dually with a Cummins diesel
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Long Long Honeymoon i
Great info and sure easy to follow these tips.
You guys make nice videos. No yelling, no acid rock or disco music, just plain, straightforward info. Very good.
I’ve been hauling for many years and also have an extensive experience in logistics from beginning to end.
Based on your tips in your video, I have some additional tips and suggestions.
1. Best to put heavy items in the center of the trailer. Not the front or the back. Most weight should be slightly ahead of the trailer axles.
2. Do not twist your tow safety chains. If your chains are too long that you have to twist them, links need to be removed. Twisting will give uneven tensions and weaken the chain if it may be under stress.
3. From my experience, this has happened twice and I was “lucky” enough to experience both ways to have your chain. When crossing your chains, if the trailer disconnects, the trailer will go side to side. If you attach them straight, the trailer will continue straight.
4. All towing moving connections need grease. Yes, that shinny ball needs grease. Couplers and balls can wear out quickly and cause the trailer to disconnect from the vehicle. This also goes for 5th wheel king pins.
5. Drive the appropriate speed. Do not drive too slow or too fast. It’s best to drive as close as you can near the speed limit in most areas. Don’t drive 55mph on a fwy with a speed limit of 80mph. If you can’t safely travel close to the posted speed limit, get off that fwy until you can.
6. Use turnouts. In California, you’re required to let traffic pass if there is 5 vehicles behind you. It’s polite and keeps people from doing something unsafe to pass you.
7. Expect the unexpected. This is an important one. Other drivers will do the stupidest things that can cause you to be involved in an accident. Stay alert and continue to scan to the road for these drivers. These drivers sometimes give hints what they are going to do.
Two seem to be the most common. Jumping in your space cushion and slamming on their brakes. The other is drivers not looking or coming up to speed when they come onto the fwy.
8. Tire blowouts can be a symptom of suspension or weight issue. If parts are worn, it can cause tires not to be aligned. This will cause uneven ware or excessive tire heat.
9. Watch other drivers. There is so many people that will not alert you of a problem you’re towed vehicle is having, but they will stare at you as they pass. If you’re getting an unusual amount of stares, you should stop and do another walk around to figure out why they are staring.
10. Relax! People that are fearful or stressed while towing tend to make bad or extreme decisions that can hurt you and other people. Run every scenario you can think of through your mind and what you need to do when it happens. This will relax you and you will automatically handle the situation in an emergency without even thinking about it.
Safe travels everyone!
You nailed a ton of things right on the head. First off past when you can stay in the right lane . You're on your vacation you're not trying to make money doing what you're doing .I've been driving truck for a long time and I dread camper season a lot of inexperienced people in the Middle Lane going extra slow and then you dangerously passed them on the right. When you pass a camper anytime driving a tractor trailer that is 13 5 ft tall you take a lot of drag off that camper and it could be a bad situation if they're not correctly loaded. Just remember be safe and mindful of others on the highway.
On the crossing the chains one other thing I would be concerned about is the trailer running into your tow vehicle. The tongue dragging on the ground will slow the trailer a small amount--at least compared to riding up on the chains. Also that would seemingly put less strain on the chains.
11. Don't run stop signs. see 10:43.
Could be wrong, but at one time there were states where crossing chains was not legal.
Fantastic additions to their tips.
Here is a tip from a prof truck driver and heavy equipment hauler. Never and I mean NEVER but a twist in a metal link chain. In the event of a sudden extreme tug on the chain, the twisting of the chain in trying to reach its full length will multiply the force on the individual link where it is twisted and may result in an unexpected failure of the chain. If your chain is to long and touching the ground then remove one or more links. This can be accomplished by crossing the chains or moving the hook up one link. Caution must be taken in that you do not make your chains to short causing them to bind in a turn.
Stopped the video when he said that and came to the comments specifically looking for someone to point that out.
Yep, as soon as I heard that, I was like, Noooo. I've never driven an RV or truck but am a flight attendant and know there is way less strength in a seat belt that is twisted.
I agree i can say I never thought of twisting chains like that my gut told me it was not safe and noticed they were not crossed either when he hooked up also another point missed when you have no connection in the power hookup you also have no electric brakes on the trailer only the break away would kick in running off the trailer battery other than thant there is some common sense tips that are good
@Tucker Latham I think he meant as tension is put on the already twisted chain and it tries to reach it's full length it will twist in the opposite direction putting more tension on the single weak link.
@Tucker Latham What he is saying is when pressure is exerted on the chain it tries to get to full length and if there is a twist in it, there wil be extreme pressure on the twisted link.
Thanks for tips. I enjoy your videos. Here are two additional suggestions. 1. make sure that the ball mount on your tow vehicle is at the proper height so that the trailer rides level. 2. If you are new, practice hitching, backing and parking. I bought my first camper 1 year ago. I had never towed anything. I practiced hitching and unhitching. I also took my trailer to a large empty parking lot, set up cones, and practiced backing in, from both directions. I now feel pretty confident in my backing skills.
Thanks again for your enjoyable and helpful videos!
I've worked around RVs since the 1990s and you guys are the best on UA-cam when it comes to RVing advise. My wife and I love your videos. I currently work for a rental company called Airstream 2 Go and I watch your videos to see if I'm missing anything that my clients need to know when renting our trailers. Keep up the awesome work.
Terrific advice, especially about speed, brakes, and fatigue. You guys really speak well together, too, not talking all over each other! You're fun to watch. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Rita! More vids on the way. 👍😊
Use your key fob to lock and unlock tow vehicle doors. This activates marker lights and brake lights on the trailer making it easy for one person to check lights. Carry a can of contact cleaner. It’s perfect for cleaning out trailer electrical connectors.
We have lived full time in an RV since 1998 and have traveled east and west. Through trial and error, we have found that the setup we now have is most efficient for the weight we haul (our dually truck and 38' fifth wheel weigh approx. 24.5k). We installed an air-filled, shock-absorbing pin box before we purchased the rig we now have, which already had a suspension system called Mor/Ryde. We didn't know how invaluable that system was, combined with load range H tires, until we had to have the system replaced two years ago (due to age and a broken spring bracket we happened to see). After the repair and replacement, we now only have to deal with the normal wear and tear on our tires, replacing them as needed. Prior to this setup, we had numerous issues with tire wear and/or blowout problems, using the either trailer tires or truck tires that were the typical load range E. I didn't even know of a load range H until we got this rig! I really think heavier rigs such as RVs need heavier-duty tires, which can be purchased online (ebay) for much less than at a regular tire store. I simply call ahead and ask a friend (if available) for a suggested shop, and then call the shop for their address and how much they would charge to install a tire I have shipped to them. This has worked the best for us since our first tire issues with our 28' rig back in '99!
Hi guys. I've learned my lessons well and pretty much in tune with your advice. Let me tell you about my first cross country pull. So first one of my leveling bars falls down but not off, dragging it well over 100 miles. Then, I did not know how to control the aftermarket trailer breaks, causing me to lurch forward and back. Needless to say, there was no traffic behind me for a few miles. And here's the kicker. I'm travelling along in the right lane through a construction zone, cones lined up on the shoulder. All of a sudden I saw a cop waving frantically at me to stop. I pulled over safely and he caught up to me and said "Look what your doing to the cones". I looked back and saw a mile of upended cones strewn all over the shoulder. The cop said, "Look at your pull out steps, their in open position!" So I guess the old saying, "Experience is the best teacher" will keep me in good stead for this year's cross country trip.
Heyyyy I was working that work zone (Traffic Flagger)(NOT 😊) when that happen!!! I name my cones to mess with my crew when they hit or drag them! HEY you just hit/kill Kenny (South Park)!
Hello...My name is Danny...I have been a professional truck driver for awhile with just under 4 million miles since getting behind a wheel and now an instructor for those pliable minds of mush who aspire to become truck drivers. I am viewing your video here and when it came to tires and pressures you recommend for you, I thought I should chime in. Well I think you may have it wrong. The number 1 cause of blowouts on big rigs, that has not run over something, is under inflation of the tires. I run on my rig 100 psi on all 18 wheels and in all kinds of weather. The main problem in the southwest in high temps is running tires under inflated. The tires when they are not inflated to proper pressures will actually run hotter which increases pressure in the tires resulting in blow outs. I suggest that you might want to look into what the MFG of your trailer is recommending, for the size of the tire it comes with, and the pressure for those and stay close to it. One more thing. Those big strands of tire tread that you find along the roads, that we truck drivers affectionately call gators, most of those and I do mean most are not re-treads. They are actually virgin tires, meaning non retreads, that come from under inflated tires not over inflated. Enjoy you long honeymoon...perhaps when I retire, which will be my honeymoon, our paths might cross. Remember, keep the shiny side up...=)
I was going to write the same comment:-)
me three
sorry but I disagree, tires have pressure inflation maximums on the side wall, if your vehicle is lighter than the max weight for that tire it is ok to drop the pressure, google it
You can disagree if you'd like. However, I don't think you read what I really said. I suggest you re-read it. I don't need google. Seriously you need to learn a better way of finding out facts besides a search engine. Perhaps more real time life experience without a PC or any other electronic devise. Myself along with thousands of other professional semi tractor trailer drivers that drive this nation and have been doing so for longer than you might of lived, will continue to keep our tires inflated to what we know is best in all types of weather and geographical locations. By the way, those max pressures you read on the sidewalls of tires, are related to cargo weight not highway road temperatures.
www.kaltire.com/the-right-tire-pressure-why-the-maximum-isnt-the-best/
Excellent video! Obviously the voices of experience and common sense. I have been Airstreaming for over 10 years now, and I can testify to the validity of their points made in this video. Thank you!
Great advice! I would highly recommend purchasing a TST Tire Monitoring System if you tow a single axle trailer. We experienced a blow out several years back and before we stopped the Airstream Bambi the tire came apart and tore up the aluminum panel above the wheel. One additional tip is to never allow anyone except yourself to torque your lug nuts. Tire shops always put the lug nuts on beyond Mfg specs. We also experienced a driver’s side tire loss on a hot day when all the lug nut failed. The tire literally passed us on the highway. The good news was the Airstream rolled along straight and true on the hub with zero sway.
My husband and I are considering Full-timing for retirement. About a year and a half out. I am scouring the internet and there is so much good information out there from people like YOU! Thank you so much. I love everything you post and the two of you are such a cute couple
Thanks Linda! More good stuff on the way this summer!
I love this video, I know it was 4 years ago, but the advice remains so very important for safety. I love Ford trucks and I love Airstream trailers. I hope You guys are still at it and you're enjoying life. Stay safe and God bless
Hope I am not duplicating another comment. I watched this a while ago. Please!!You are not undercover highway patrol. Even though you are going the speed limit and those other people are idiots, stay on the right lane unless you are passing, and on two way traffic roads, try to pull over and let the speed demons pass. I have seen people towing travel trailers with 15 vehicles piling up on their bumper, when there were numerous opportunities to pull over and let them pass. It only takes a few minutes and creates a lot of good will for yourself and the rest of us.
+Mark VanHaverbeke thumbs way up for this comment
+Mark VanHaverbeke Well said, Mark. As a guy who lives in the NC mountains, and also a motorcyclist, it drives me CRAZY when RV people won't pull over. Now that I have a camper, I'll make damn sure that I never have 15 cars or bikes lined up behind me. You can't always pull over, but when you can, DO!
Michael Colloton ,but when you need to get back in, will those "nice people" let you back in? Unlikely!
It's the law here in California to pull over and let people pass when three or more vehicles are in line to pass behind you (if it's safe to do so)
John H , I'd be pulled over all the time on the way back from Sydney NS. If the speed limit is 55, how do you not forever have 3 or more cars behind you wanting to pass?
These are great tips. Thank you so much. My husband does all the driving and I need to learn how to pull the trailer just for those reasons.
Yes, you need to be ready to tow in case you are ever forced to do so. For example, your husband could have some sort of accident and you might be the only person who could tow the rig. Plus it’s nice if you can give your husband a break every once in a while. We recommend that you get some experience during your travels.
@@LongLongHoneymoon yes. That has been on the back of mind for awhile. Just super scared. 32ft trailer and never pulled anything.
Thanks for the tips! I had a friend who was killed last year towing a stock trailer over loaded with polo ponies. 3 of the horses were also killed. Unfortunately in the horse world too often I see people completely disregard safety rules. It actually made me a little anxious about towing the little pop up we recently got. My budding camping adventures almost came to an end! Learning as many things as possible about towing has really helped me be a lot more comfortable. My husband and I both tow the pop up. He makes me do all the backing because he says I'm a natural at it. I think he just doesn't want to do any backing!
+Melissa Garrett +Melissa Garrett Wow, we're so sorry to hear about your friend. :( Your comment is a sobering reminder of what's at stake here. On a happier note, we're glad you found our video helpful. We've done a video about backing up a trailer too that you may like. Safe travels! ua-cam.com/video/lzlOfBGr1i4/v-deo.html
+Long Long Honeymoon I'll definitely watch the backing video and make the husband watch it at least 10 times! He really does suck at it! Also I'm going to share these videos with all my horse friends! It's important to be safe AND keep our over priced spoiled four legged friends safe in the horse trailer!
I'm glad there are couples like you that are taking the time to post videos like this to help others. I've towed different trailers for many years, and would agree with 95% of what you preach in your videos. Great job and keep up the good work.
I really appreciate the videos you folks make! Thank you. I really liked that Kristy emphasized getting a tow vehicle that can STOP the camper... I got my CDL-A a few years back, and went to drive long haul for a trucking company. I was surprised the first time I felt the sensation of having 80,000 lbs. behind me, going down a mountain! Travel trailers aren't that heavy, of course, but I can't agree with you more that you must have adequate - and hopefully more than adequate - braking ability on your vehicle. I also saw quite a few travel trailers, utility trailers, boats, etc., totaled on the side of the road from the unfortunate accidents that happen out there. Don't be 'that guy' who loses his investment and his vacation to the laws of gravity. Have more brakes than you need! Be safe out there.
Thanks Lynn for your posts!
Great tips! Credibility is everything, and traveling in 48 states builds an excellent level of experience! Really loved the tips and will surely use them when my wife and I move back to the states and start RVing again!
I think knowing the clearance height and width of your rig should be memorized and/or posted on the dashboard to avoid clipping obstacles would be a good tip to add to your list.
Excellent tip
Thanks for the valuable tips on towing. I' m a real novice. I just purchased a 31 ft Dutchmen and plan on spending lots of time traveling. Recently widowed, so its a solo venture, so I am a little hesitant about the how tos of rv life.. My husband was a mechanic and I have always been co- pilot. Your videos are excellent and give me all the sensible knowledge that I will need on the road to keep me safe. See you on the road someday!
Great tips and advise! Steven Lesher, not sure of the towing capacity of your truck, but I pull my 27 1/2 Cherokee travel trailer with a 2011 Toyota Tundra and don't have any issues. In fact I just drove it about 1200 miles from Ohio to Colorado and had smooth sailing. Just a side note, would never attempt it without my trusty assistant: weight distribution and sway control!
I already subscribed, weeks ago. I'm getting over major surgery, using my time to get ready for our big adventure, our early RV retirement. I've done tons of research, and you guys are just the best! I grew up camping, but Dad did the towing. Truth is, we're a little nervous, and don't understand the various tech packages. I knew your video would be simple and straightforward, and it is. A great place to start. Thanks again.
Love the video. Good tips. One additional item on tires is tire age. My trucker friends won't let their tires exceed 3 years in age. I have also read 5 years. But either way, check the manufacture date and get rid of old tires. It's marked on each tire.
7 years is maximum for passenger cars. Shouldn't be longer than that for radial trailer tires.
worked in the tire field for about a decade on and off anything on a passenger tire past 5 years and you will start running into dry rot issues. travel trailer tires mostly fall into the same catagory. commercial tires can be in service up to 10 years before they will not recap them any more.
From years of experience....you guys are right on. I like listening to others who might have good ideas and take those ideas on. You constantly learn, If you think you know everything get off the road!!!! A good tip that has saved me from accidents is to look far ahead and see what the other driver is going to do. It takes time to read the road environment but when you got it down you avoid accidents. I was a professional driver, all my career big rigs, buses, military, all with no accidents! Including in my pov. Oh also a instructor for big rigs as well. 1 rule to learn, learn how to back! Anyone can go forward, it's going backwards where you can get into a pickle. Thanks!
I also do a walk around every time we stop at a rest stop. never pass up an opportunity to do a walk around.
Good tips for people. I have been towing for many many year. One thing I couldn't help but critique (because I have noticed it is a common mistake among RV'ers.) tip 15. Anti sway bars and stabilizer bars. No. Anti Sway is a friction bar which reduces sway. Though a person can, it is not recommended you back up with one on. The other bars which you are specifically utilizing, are weight distribution bars. They are not stabilizer bars. Though they do stabilize the load a bit and help to eliminate or reduce the porpoising effect, there main duty is weight distribution.
Also, I have to say, I like the tidbit about proper tow vehicle. I have seen this way way to often. People towing to large of a trailer with to small of a TV. There seems to be a lot of Tundra and F150 owners who are primary culprits. Just because the trailer with all gear loaded is still under the weight specifications of the TV doesn't mean you should do it. Just ask a good friend of mine who was towing a 29 foot trailer with his 2012 F-150 (he was still under his towing and cargo specs by 800 pounds and traveling at 50 MPH when he totaled both rigs because of a severe bounce coupled with a heavy sway condition from a passing semi. The "tail wagged the dog" off the road in this case.
Good tip on the braking capability for tow vehicle.. I would like to offer one more from my years of pulling equipment with a F250 diesel tow vehicle. When considering tow vehicles, think about diesel vs. gas carefully. Diesels are great for torque compared to gas engines, but they are heavier vehicles, more expensive to maintenance, can require a dealership for repairs and finding auto-diesel can sometimes be frustrating. I can say from experience filling up with the semi's is not much fun waiting and the pumps they use pump wayyyy faster and nozzles are bigger than the auto-diesel pumps. Good video.
That was the BEST video on UA-cam I’ve seen on towing!
I was trying to explain to someone how to pull a trailer over the phone and was looking for videos for them to watch, and there are just none out there! There are a lot about backing up, and hooking up, but there are none about turning getting on and off of the on and off ramps or switching lanes.
Thanks again this video!
Stay safe out there!
Great tips, guys. I do want to raise one fairly major concern, however....the tip about lowering the tire pressures due to the pressure increasing when the tires get hot.
I mention this because I believe the recommendation to DROP the pressure is a potential safety issue.
I think your advise to speak with a tire expert is a very good one, as he will tell you to NEVER drop the air pressures to "cater" for the possibility of the pressures increasing above the COLD psi level - as the tires are actually designed for that increase in psi when hot. All tire pressures are to be checked when the tires are COLD.
It is perfectly NORMAL and EXPECTED for the tire pressures to increase ABOVE the COLD pressure, when in use, and one should NEVER drop the pressures when the tires are hot to get the pressures back under the tire maximum COLD psi. (nor, to under inflate the tires on the basis that the pressures will increase above the maximum COLD pressure level!)
That would cause a significant reduction in load capacity and potentially overheat the tires, due to added flex in the sidewalls for the loads requiring the maximum cold pressure (say, 50 psi, as an example). Dropping the pressure below the recommended level for the loaded trailer is a major safety concern. It is quite fine (and expected) for the tires to increase psi well above the 50 psi example, when in use and hot. They are designed for this!
Now, one should realize that there are 3 things to consider here when deciding on the correct COLD psi....
1. The tire manufacturer provides a maximum safe COLD psi, marked right on the tirewall, for that specific tire. The psi should never be raised above this level when the tire is COLD. The maximum load capacity of the tire will be at this maximum psi level. The pressure WILL rise above this level on the road when the tire heats up. This is NORMAL and the tire is designed for this pressure in use!
2. The TRAILER manufacturer has a DIFFERENT minimum tire PSI rating, which is the one to actually use, for the load on the specific trailer. It is almost always BELOW the maximum psi rating for the tire itself, as all vehicle and trailer manufacturers specify tires with a slightly greater load capacity that what is needed, as a safety buffer.
3. The thing to check here, is that while the trailer manufacturer's rating would almost always be BELOW the tire's maximum psi rating on the sidewall, if it is ABOVE the tire's maximum rating then you should NEVER increase the psi to above the maximum level on the tire sidewall (again, always checked when cold). BUT then you should carefully check that the specific tire's maximum LOAD CAPACITY is sufficient for your trailer's loaded mass, at the tire's maximum (cold) psi level you have chosen.
You may need to change the tires to a higher load capacity tire (generally, one with more plies, and from quality tire manufacturers).
Sorry for the long post. I felt it important to mention this as it is such a safety concern. Your advise to check with a tire expert is very good advice, if there is any doubt or confusion at all, with regards critical tire issues.
Love your videos, and have subscribed!
Barry Timm Thanks much for your thoughtful post. I agree that everyone should consult a tire professional. Our comments in the video are simply a sharing of insights based upon personal experience (with Goodyear Marathon trailer tires). In the Airstream community, the Goodyear Marathons have a negative reputation. We've achieved the best results by following the approach we discuss in the video.
I would like to make a Cautionary Note about Holding Tanks in general. My understanding most are made from a polycarbonate or fiberglass material, (plastic). Most have a continuous flange around the top portion of the tank. Many are supported by the vehicle chassis frame from this flange. Don’t make the mistake I did thinking it was OK to travel with these tank partially or full. They will crack open and break at this location in due time, creating the worst mistake you made in a long time. Especially if you’re RV has a full metal covered under belly full of insulation? Play it smart, do it yourself or have your dealer inspect and or install additional supports to the tanks underbelly to take the heavy load of these flanges and really support the tanks.
Happy travels
They sell nice yellow wide right turn magnets at Amazon that fit the right side of the bumper perfectly. I put one on and it seems to keep that space clear.
Thanks, great idea!
Really enjoyed the video. Lots of good tips. I am relatively new with towing a trailer and your videos have saved me a lot of "learning by my mistakes".
Your tire pressure recommendation isn't correct. The maximum pressure listed on the sidewall is max pressure COLD. The COLD max pressure already takes into account the pressure increase from the heat of running the tire. If you try to guesswork "compensate" for that, you'll be under pressure every time, which is more likely to cause the tires to fail when hot.
Correct. Follow tire manufacturers directions they are not suggestions. Trailer tires are not made to have sidewall flex like an automobile tire, sidewall flex causes heat and heat causes de lamination followed by flats. Can be very dangerous. The extra pressure on hot days is what you want for less sidewall flex.
This!!!
thanks for taking the time to share these tips with us. I especially agree with your thoughts on towing/traveling at off times. It makes a huge difference and the trip more enjoyable. Awh...baby girl! So SWEET!!!
Really great vid. My wife and I are picking up our first trailer this coming Friday. We are totally stoked. Thank you for the great tips.
I will be getting my first trailer on Friday.
Good tips.We have just bought our fifth caravan (five over 45 years) and always appreciate other people's experiences. The caravan's rear vision camera we fitted has been great. We did the circumnavigation of Australia (25,000km) with no issues.
Get in the habit of checking the hub temp with a feel at each stop or fuel fill up. You can use your hand, but I carry a small digital IR thermometer and hang it on my shifter. A common problem with some trailers is bearing failure. Checking the hubs would provide an early warning!
And here I thought I was the only one this paranoid…. Haha
not just the bearings but also the brake pads/shoes
Cute looking Chihuahua. Excellent tips. The ability to control a tow vehicle is imperative, whether you're actually towing a trailer, or you're carrying a big camper. I've seen plenty of trucks that don't look like they would be capable of towing anything heavier than a small cargo trailer.
Thanks for the vid. All great tips and since tires can be a major issue in hot climates and long trips, for peace of mind, I purchased eight wireless tire monitors that display temp and pressure on both the truck and trailer tandems (EEZTIRE T515 - 8 sensor @ $400). Anymore, I am just not into changing flats in 95+ degree weather on a busy highway and blowing up my wheel wells and fenders. I'll drive at night if necessary.
2 items that I always have learned to carry (not from rv-ing, but because I ranch and haul trailers all the time in horrible conditons) that will help w/ a couple of your 'tips'. 1) For the electrical connection carry a can of CRC QD Electronic cleaner (Quick Drying) 2) If your trailer has tandem axels get a Trailer Aid Ramp for flat tires/blowouts.
Thank you. I'm a newbie getting my first fifth wheel soon. I need to learn everything.
Awesome video and I have another bonus tip to bring your list to an even 30. If you are hauling a truck camper make sure all tie-downs are secure and tensioned properly. It only takes 1 bad bump to ruin/end your vacation..
Hey! Im a Army medic and considering buying the flying cloud 19, my specific job makes me frequently think about Personal Safety and Security against theft. I have considered motion activated lights on the outside, a firearm, and an exterior door camera. i would really appreciate any additions you have to this, also i would carry a generator and a motorcycle in the back of my truck, what would be the best measure in your experience to secure those, along with the trailer. Along with all of this, i am curious about the safest and friendliest places to park in your opinion, Thank you so very much, beautiful trailer, beautiful family, amazing video, thank you again.
Best tips I’ve seen yet! Every one of them was useful. Thanks.
Subject of hot weather tire pressure. Everybody should check tire pressure at the start of your trip and check again after the first 100 miles of hot weather driving to know for sure how your tire pressure changes and you will know for sure the correct pressure to start with. Just my 2 cents. By the way excellent video and over all great tips. Thank you.
Change to nitrogen instead of air. I started running nitrogen in my service trucks as a test. I found that there is not any difference in tire pressure regardless if you are running in the summer or dead of winter, now all my rolling stock uses nitrogen. Once you change over, you will notice longer tire life and improved gas mileage.
I use a mix of 78% Nitrogen, 21% Oxygen, and 1% Argon. Seems to work okay. FWIW according to the Ideal Gas Law, Nitrogen, Oxygen, and Argon will all exhibit nearly identical changes in pressure due to a change in temperature. Nitrogen doesn't help in this scenario at resisting pressure changes due to temperature. The culprit in some cases is having water vapor in the tires from a compressor without a good air dryer. In that case you may see a significant difference between dry air or nitrogen and moist air. The problem is that there may be moisture already in your tires when you add nitrogen and it wouldn't help much. Dry air is every bit as good as nitrogen. It's a bit cheaper too!
After 30 years racing I can tell you that MrJcjet is exactly right. All that nitrogen is is dry air. Moisture in the tire air is what makes it expand. If you live in a very humid environment then nitrogen is good; In a dry area its worthless and ridiculously over over priced. Plain ole air is 78.1% nitrogen, 21%oxygen and 1% argon. The rest is tiny. Don't waste your money.
As a HVAC contractor, we use nitrogen to pressure check a wide range of pressure vessels. It is a preferred gas because it is not affected by temperature or other variables. As for the cost, a 40 lbs. cylinder of nitrogen cost about $10.00 ( plus the cylinder). With tire that need to be inflated to over 70 psi., it is much easier and quicker. I have never heard of mixing argon and air in a tire, much less being able to control those percentages. This is the procedure we use to fill tires. First, with one tire bead in place, We use nitrogen to flush the tire of ambient air and set the second bead. Once both beads are sealed, we pull the tire on a vacuum down to 800 microns. this is to make sure all air and moisture is pulled out. Then we fill the tire with 100% nitrogen. On load range "E" tires, I am getting at less 30% more life at of them. I have checked tire pressure when the road surface temp. over 150 degrees, or under freezing, tire pressure is the same. If it changes, it is because of leaks. With 15 service trucks on the road, 30% increase in tire life increases my bottom line.
I don't mix my gas. I was just using that as sort of a joke. That's simply the composition of typical air. Also FWIW it's not really possible to pull a vacuum on a tire without separating the beads. A typical 5 degree bead seat with a bead lip will only hold a very slight amount of pressure before it releases. Truck tires with 15 degree bead seats will not hold any pressure before unseating. (these are all of your tires with rim sizes ending in .5 such as 16.5 or 22.5). I'm not sure how you're pulling a vacuum without double beadlock wheels.
Nitrogen is not any better than regular air for expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. That's just a scientific fact about the physical properties of air and nitrogen. The difference is the water vapor or liquid water. Dry air is just as good as nitrogen.
Great video. One thing I always do after hooking up is that I test my trailer brakes. I start moving then manually engage the trailer brakes. They should quickly stop the entire rig. This will give the entire electric brake system a check and give you peace of mind that everything is good. Looking forward to your next video.
Some may ask, "Why do I need to make Wide right turns versus LEFT? Because you have less distance to make a right turn versus left. A left turn can utilize the ENTIRE intersection and you have more distance to turn. A right turn is a couple of feet. Thought I would add that in because sometimes the common sense doesn't kick in :)
From someone who is about to buy an RV, thank you to both Long Long Honeymoon and MrJcjet for the video and comments. I find this extremely helpful.
Great Tips. Especially the one about each person needs to be able to tow the rig.
This is VERY helpful to me. My wife and I are making the transition from a large Coleman tent trailer to a 22' Ultralight. I'm a person that prefers to err on the side of safety, particularly in a situation where an innocent could be impacted by my stupidity. Thanks for the 29 tips!
Thanks for the tips! I’m gonna be driving my stepdads truck to pull the new camper today so I’m kind of nervous
Wonderful tips that every newbie should write down and tape to their dashboard..I'll give you one more that you can put in another video sometime: Know the exact height of your rig, including vent or A/C covers, especially if you are pulling a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Measure it yourself; don't rely on the spec sheets in the owners manuals. Occasionally, clearing a low structure may come down to fractions of an inch.. My 5th wheel Fleetwood Wilderness would not have fit through the old covered bridge in this video. You need to know if you're going to fit BEFORE driving under something low and smashing your A/C unit, or WORSE!
Keep up the great videos. Love you guys and the service you are providing.
I agree generally with a few exceptions. Full liquid tanks are a lot safer than half full. They generally should be either all the way full or all the way empty. It's an issue with fluid slosh and potential for harmonic frequency building and causing or adding to a trailer sway condition. You'll never ever see a tanker half full on the highway for a reason. Water tanks are small - is it a huge deal? maybe not, but ideally half full is the worst case scenario.
Also the trailer sway devices are bandaids for poor engineering. Trailer sway is predictable based on math and physics. A properly engineered and loaded trailer will not exhibit sway. Using a baindaid to dampen the oscillations is a good way to end up upside down. If the baindaid fails (they're usually friction based systems) you can end up in a bad situation very fast at a much higher speed than you would have otherwise found the problem and possibly not had a crash. (I'm not talking about load distribution here, but sway control.) Fix the trailer or get a different one. Don't put a friction dampener on it and pray that your $100 bolt on bandaid doesn't fail. Airstream trailers are very well engineered and well constructed. A 20 year old Airstream is still a better trailer than 95% of the new stuff out there. I would not expect any sway issues with an airstream.
Thanks for your comments -- you make an excellent point about half full water tanks. I've never heard anyone raise that before with regard to RVs, but your analysis makes sense. Thanks for sharing!
I tend to be a little blunt in my writing as a result of the type of work I typically do where we all tend to be as curt and concise as we can. Thank you for the video. It should be helpful for a lot of folks. I'm a physicist and I haven't done the calculation, but back of the envelop estimate would probably be that the water tank sway with even 100 gallons is diminimus compared to the rest of the weight of a typical RV and why not save some fuel with lighter tanks. That's assuming it is centered at the axles. I believe most RVs have water tanks over the axles - and they should. If the water tanks were out at the ends of the trailer - then it would be cause for concern to have them half full.
I don't think a sway control device hurts anything as an additional safety measure for a properly balanced trailer. Only that if you do have a trailer that exhibits harmonic sway you absolutely should not add one as a fix. That can be dangerous because the sway compounds with speed and the friction based sway control will allow you to get to a higher speed where something as simple as getting wet on the friction surface may cause a catastrophic loss of control.
We always carry full tank of fresh water, or empty. Never half empty.
Doesn't the water tank have baffles in them to prevent the water from splashing around.
Nonsense. Quality of a trailer isn't just subjective, it has nothing to do with sway. Sway results (primarily) from wind impacts (the wind blowing from the side ) and from buffeting by large vehicles (other travel trailers; 5th wheels; Class A, B, or C; buses, and tractor/trailer rigs). Improper load distribution and hauling waste or fresh water are both extremely important. I never haul black or gray water! It's marginally acceptable to carry fresh water, especially in desert type environments, but bottled water would be better. The "sway bar" devices mentioned here DO make a difference, as opposed to the commenter here! At higher speeds, especially under high side winds or traffic impacts, use the "sway bar". Newer vehicles, like the 2017 Ford F250, don't experience sway like other trucks since the computer will detect a sway condition, then apply the correct trailer brakes, to cancel out the sway/fishtail. I didn't believe that, but my new 2017 F250 pulling a 34.5 foot travel trailer (which runs over 8,000 pounds wet) exhibited zero sway/fishtail in high side winds without using the device most people refer to as a friction "sway bar". I invite the commenter to drive across Hoover Dam on a typical day, alongside trucks and other campers, and say sway doesn't exist, nor that a "sway bar" doesn't help. The associated "pucker factor" will speak for itself. No matter the quality of a camper, he will learn the feel associated with sway/fishtail.
Great advice, with the exception of.. Manufacturers max tire pressures take into account, and have a built in buffer for, the extra pressure caused by heat, so you should use max tire pressure.
Additionally, any under inflation causes the tires to heat up more.
The best thing one can do for both tires AND fuel mileage is to inflate to max, and KEEP YOUR SPEED DOWN!
Trailer tires are NOT designed to run 70 MPH on hot days (or even cool days!)
Most blowouts are caused by towing too fast!
Our Ram 2500 gets around 14.6 MPG while towing our 7k travel trailer at 55-56 MPH. Going 61-63 MPH decreases our mileage to around 12 MPG. That's 81 miles farther at 55-56 MPH on ONE 30 gallon tank!!!!
And no, truckers don't get mad at you! Especially if you blink your lights when it's safe for them to merge in front of you, and are courteous to them!
Remember, the max towing speed in most states is 55.
I can't stress enough the importance of weight relieving hitch systems AND added anti sway gear.
Additionally, I can't imagine pulling our 10k pound Arctic Fox without an exhaust brake!!!
I cringe when I see a 1/2 ton gas motor pickup passing us pulling a 30' trailer at 70 MPH!
We've been full time and towing for about 6 years now, so do have experience.
Came across this video (starting to binge watch Loloho) and one thing about your brake controller use really stuck out to me. On the road, you should never need to activate your trailer brakes independently of the tow vehicle unless 1) you have zero brake pressure and are just trying to get stopped (but should be used in conjunction with engine braking) or 2) using the trailer brakes to hold you on a hill (handy for dead stop hill starts with manual transmissions though most modern vehicles have hill start assist).
Most modern brake controllers (integrated and third party) are called proportional controllers. Meaning, they proportionally apply voltage to the trailer brakes based on the deceleration requirements of the vehicle (using integrated sensors). This means, the trailer brakes with the tow vehicle by equally distributing the braking load across the two vehicles opposed to an uneven distribution which will lead to increased wear on the brakes of one vehicle or the other.
Also, it’s not a bad idea to perform an in-flight check a few miles after the pre-flight check and ideally checking on the hitch, couplers, chains, light connections, jack (some manual styles do occasionally unwind on the road) and most importantly, tires and hubs. Also not a bad idea to check tires and hubs anytime you make a pit stop.
Colin Zapalac thanks for adding this - I thought that was how the integrated brakes worked, but they had me worried I'd been misusing them.
This is what the gain is for, to adjust how “hard” your trailer brakes are working at the start of braking, then proportionately advance with pressure. They are there to stop the trailer not the tow vehicle, to work in unison. The manual engage is for checking the function of the system, to bring your trailer back in line if it is swaying all over for whatever reason, and of course that “oh shit” moment. My two cents, I came to the comment section to look for this information and correction.
With regard to tire pressure, most if not all tires have a recommend cold tire pressure. The tires should be inflated to that psi before the vehicle is moved and before being affected by that days sun. The cold tire pressure compensates for road temps and solar gain. Love the tip!
Just a quick note on Tip #6: Tell me you don't have the emergency brake wire attached to your (left) safety chain (like I realized I was doing)? Looks that way in the video. I would think it better to attach the wire to the hitch itself.
True - I was told at the dealership to attach it to the hitch.
Spot on, as a trucker with 35 years safe driving I could not agree more. Just bought a new travel trailer last month and pulled it with my f150 for a 350 mile round trip, hade no problems but the f150 is not enough truck to pull this light trailer of 6500 pound gvw. I got back home and traded for a f350. I have not pulled it yet but I am sure it will be much safer feeling.
I am looking at an airsteam and was thinking F150, I am now leaning toward F250/350... thanks!
From an old ex- truck driver who pulls a 26 ft box for fun on days off now, have met and dealt with a lot of RVs in my travels,please give my fellow road bros some thought when you finally see us sneaking up on you in your mirrors with a 80,000+ semi an your butt puckers up a bit. We are not all road warriors if you find you are able to pass us do it but don't set up camp in front of us at 60 mph , move on or follow please.You're on holidays we are on a schedule,you're out weighed and gonna lose when we tangle on a road.We're trying to get home to our families, yours is likely in the back seat.Safe travels for all.
Thanks for the tips. We have had fifth wheels and motorhomes but now have a Honda Odyssey (with tow package added) and a new Flagstaff Micro-Lite and have towed it back home from the dealer (250 miles with EQ hitch and sway) with no problems at all. We find 65-70 MPH is good for the Honda Transmission.
Thanks , Mike
Great information. Really like your channel, we are just getting back into rv camping and appreciate all the info.
Ya they sound like they know, but read more and you will understand they DO NOT!
I've found that a small juice can with the top cut off makes a perfect cover to slip over the plug when the trailer is parked. I'd wrap a paper shop towel around the plug put the plug in the can and slip the plug under the propane tanks cover.
anxiety about tyre temperatures during hot weather???-> inflate them with nitrogen !
@ 14:50 Seans doing the happy "Woo Hoo, I don't have to drive, I don't have have to drive" dance. I recognized it immediately. Wives generally have know clue the mental prep their men have to go through to get you to your destination. My wife drove our rig for the first time last weekend and it was such a welcome relief. I really hate the driving part. I just want to get there.
Oh, and I just bought the mobile diesel generator. You're welcome.
I have one other tip if I may, I'm towing a 30 ft travel trailer with a 2012 Ford F150 crew cab equipped with the towing package, powered with the V6 ego boost. That includes sway control, electric brakes and engine braking for down hills. I still experienced some unexpected sway from time to time and buddy it will scare you to death!!! Realizing this is a problem that shouldn't go uncheck, I added a left hand sway bar, got it on Amazon.com for approximately $40.00, best 40 bucks I have ever spent, now I can take on Interstates, 18 wheelers and wind no problem, this added sway bar has really, really sobbed the problem... After my installation I read somewhere on the Internet that suggested a left hand sway bar if your towing a camper trailer longer than 24 foot. I hope this will help someone.
Hoped that helped Keith but that model truck is way to lightweight to safely tow that trailer.
And the weight of you F150 is?
The best way to understand trailer sway might be like this: When you have too much mass ,toward the rear of the trailer , when you steer ,the mass in the back in the trailer steers you even more (with leverage behind it). When you correct ,it does the opposite ,in the opposite direction, and it gets worse with each sway.. Now....if you use the l trailer brake only feature on your brake controller (while peeing your pants) the trailer braking action will tend to straighten your steering up again. Something to consider,and I am not assuming you have an airstream, shocks on trailers also help with minimizing sway, even on small single axle trailers. I have long suspected that on some trailer suspension systems that :when one spring is fully compressed and the other spring is fully uncompressed ,your axle is actually "steering" the trailer a little because the geometry has changed. When the blast of wind from a passing 18 wheeler tilts your trailer, maybe that situation occurs. I have seen after market shock kits for lippert. I think they also exist for Dexter. Years ago I installed 88 bronco 2 rear shocks on a small single axle trailer many years ago. The difference in handling was very noticeable.
Surprised you havnt pulled the guts out of that v6
Keith Barber "Ego" boost engine??? It must be a good lookin truck!! 😎
Great tips, Sean and Kristy!
I would add the following suggestions:
1. Using remote pressure gauges (they mount on the air inlets) on the trailers tires - for frequent travelers like yourselves - they give you an advanced warning of any pressure rise on a hot day.
2. Make sure your trailer's hubs are WELL greased and, at rest area stops - check to see just how hot they got (they shouldn't be hot if well greased and you're not riding your trailer's breaks all the time).
3. Your F-250 truck is definitely awesome, and I too drive an F-250 Diesel towing an FB22 Jay-flight travel trailer, which leaves you with plenty of "oomph", since it's at the lower end of the truck's towing capacity.
For folks with Diesel Trucks who, like myself, don't intend to move on to 5th wheelers - I would recommend installing a 100 Gal fuel tank on the bed. Not all gas stations are rig friendly, and you've already described the need for WIDE turns when towing the trailer. Carrying your own "gas station" frees you from the need to stop at cramped, "rig unfriendly" gas stations AND also allows you to gas up at the cheapest stations - thus saving you some $$ :-).
That's it for today! Keep on trucking and thanks for the awesome video(s)!
I've watched the majority of you UA-cam video's. Please post more of your excursions, your one of the best. Very educational with a touch of humor. Love it.
Rick Malone Thanks Rick! More on the way!
We have traveled a lot with our travel trailer and have found that for me, not necessarily sayin it's easier for others, but I unhitch the travel trailer from the back of the truck by pulling pin on receiver hitch than unhooking from ball, because unhooking from ball makes me have to do more work by undoing all the sway/weight bars, and having a big ball stick out to catch your shin on, so all the stuff stays on front of camper and for me it's easier to stick the square receiver into the hole than it is to hook up to the ball, (you do have to remove tension from weight bar chains)
I notice when you're dumping that you're wearing flip flops. Your hands may be covered by gloves, but aren't you worried your partially bare feet might carry some bacteria along into your truck or trailer?
He has a composting toilet and both of his holding tanks are only gray water. Heck, doing it this way, if you are only using biodegradable soaps you don't even need a dump station if you are on a dirt road or on BLM land.
Larry it's not his waste that's the problem.
Thank You so much for making this very useful video that public can get knowledge of towing. I'm personally like it even though having many years of experience as a over the road driver with 53' semi tractor trailer and heavy loads, I learned more abut camper trailer towing after watching this video. I would like to add a few tips & hope that would be helpful.
1= Continuously watch both mirrors specially blind mirrors and get your eyes moving to prevent of FIXATE.
2= Watch to 6 point of around you which is ( Front & Back ) ( Right & Left ) ( Above & Under ) of your equipment.
3= When you feel start getting JACKKNIFE ( Do Not Panic ) release the Gas pedal, instead of Brake pedal use TRAILER BRAKE & start correcting by gently steering. I hope no one get to this position.
Kristy is soooooooooooo BEAUTIFUL.
I have not even purchased our first RV yet and I am very glad I watched this video. The last time I did any real towing was when I was still active duty Army long ago. It is so much better to learn from someone else's experience than from an accident.
That is US!! We were in mobile TACS in the Air Force in the 80's and are looking at getting a truck and trailer, so we can park the trailer and drive the truck around the parks. Best of luck to you.
Collecting rocks! Hilarious! When we head out with our teardrop trailer friends, us ladies love to find obsidian in the mountains. "Don't tell our husbands" we say when we pack up the cars with black rocks. Wonderful tips as always.
Very nice tips. BTW christy is smoking hot!!
Struth...
never towed but just did a 3 week/80000 mile coast to coast. I did the last 2300 in three days. a way different pace from towing , for sure.
1)Always have full gas tank for traveling morning.
2)always make the each stop a multi-task stop.
3)alway keep an eye on gas, had a close call in Texas
"Get a quality vehicle " pulls up with a 6.0 powerstroke. Lol
10 years, 125,000 miles, 49 states. Key West to Alaska, still going strong! :D
Long Long Honeymoon I'm glad yours has treated you so well I've owned a 7.3, a 6.0 and 6.7 and I still have the 7.3 and the 6.7 but the 6.0 kept having oil cooler and egr issues. Hopefully yours gives you lots of years to come!!
Thanks Fred, we just got our truck "bulletproofed" so we have a Bullet Proof Diesel EGR cooler and oil cooler now. As you mention, it's the EGR and oil coolers that gave these engines a bad rep! I'm very happy to have found a reliable solution. Cheers, Sean
Thanks Fred! Really, for all of the 6.0 problems, at least there is no DEF to mess around with. Now that 6.0 is bulletproofed, hopefully we are set with our truck for a while.
Soon to start out full-time RVing. Just purchased a new 2016 Jayco travel trailer and swapped our Outback for a Silverado 2500HD with towing package. We're in the process of getting rid of all our "stuff" and paring down to what we'll need for RV life.
As soon as our 12-year-old son is out of school in May, we'll hit the road. (He'll be RV-schooled next year.) That gives us some time to work out any "bugs" in the RV while we're still just a few miles from the dealership. Needless to say, we're excited!
Your videos are great, and thanks for all the helpful information!
+Brian Casey Congrats on your new acquisition and your upcoming adventure! Glad to hear that our videos are a help. I think one of these best decisions we've made is to share this info on UA-cam. We've met some great people through our Channel. Hope to see you guys on the road someday. Cheers, Sean
Thank you. I’ve just made up my mind...I ain’t towing.
Pulled two trailers for 39 years . Good advice.Always cross your chains to keep the tong from digging in the road . Cut the length of chains to keep from twisting them. Keep em hard and push the plug all the way in. Thanks guys
Get a quality tow vehicle....buys a ford....derp
We are relatively new to Airstreaming and one feature that got "thrown in" due to my wife's most excellent negotiating skills was the back-up camera on the back of the trailer. This comes with a sort of cumbersome visual display unit which sits in the cab of your tow vehicle. With a little effort you can affix this to a surface so that you can see behind your trailer at all times. I have found this to be a very nice feature to see not only what's behind me in my lane but in general what's going on (fast car approaching, someone tailgating, etc.). Knowing these things helps you adjust to your rig in the safest possible position on the road. Ours was wired to work when you have your lights on (not "auto") which is a reminder of another good safety practice.
Great video! My wife and I just bought our first travel trailer last week. Its not as good as an Airstream but, it fit our budget. We both liked your video and will take your advice seriously. You have provided some very valuable information. Thank you and safe travels!
My wife and I are attempting to get back into RV ing. We downsized from a 30 foot to a 19 foot..even when we had the 30 footer we only used it four times. I believe I was a little intimidated with the rig..we feel better with the 19 footer.
We are planning on heading out in July in our beautiful State of Maine this July. I have been watching your blogs and I want to thank you for your concise, entertaining and informative information you have given.
Keep up the great work and who knows we run into each other in Maine sometimes
Thanks Chuck and Diana
Good advice. I need to get better mirrors! Only thing I can add is watch overhead clearances, and pay close attention to detour signs. My worst situation was caused by missing a detour.
Great comments. Besides having good tow mirrors, I installed a Rear-view Camera System on our 5vr and tow vehicle. It was an investment that I think every trailer owner should add to their trailers. You get to see what is going on behind your trailer, as you are driving down the road and you'd be amazed at what goes on. I've had tailgaters as close as 10 feet behind our 5vr while we are going down the road at 60 to 65MPH.
Great tip. Was definitely thinking about getting one for my truck, but hadn't thought to put one on the trailer also. Thanks!
One additional tip is to leave a greater space between you and the vehicle in front which will allow you to make a more controlled stop and avoid the possibility of an accident. The rule is a car length for every 10 miles per hour you're going. With the additional of trailer behind you're overall length has increased. Therefore your distance should increase also. It is disconcerting to see other vehicles fill in your space but be patient and recreate your space. Watch the big rig drivers and note how much most of them leave between themselves and the vehicle in front. Good tips and common sense make for safe travel.
Excellent advice for vanners of all experience !!! Sorry, I didn't learn anything (I have 35+ years towing & trucking in the UK), but it reminded me of the right way we should all tow be it a leftie or rightie !!! I also learned the tire presser code, as well as keep an eye on the date the tires where made, as with us the tires degrade before it wears out. Also in the UK, we use a nose weight scale to get the weight of the van right. That was one of the top tips to have a safe trip. Keep the rubber on the blacktop, & have a safe one the next time you roll out !!! Luv R.
Great tips! One more very important tip that can keep your engine and transmission from overheating when towing up steep grades: Turn your heat and fan on full blast. Open all your windows to keep you and passengers from overheating.This will pull excess heat from the engine. If temps start to increase towards the red zone pull off road and let cool down. If grade very steep and pulling heavy load put in 4WD Low and crawl up Mt if necessary...or just avoid steep grades whenever possible.
This is about the 10th time we've watched this particular video, (plus we've watched all your videos!) We join you on the road next month! Thank you for your down to earth, commonsense not to mention humor. Be well! :)
Just yesterday, committed to a 23' Airstream for our 2017 sabbatical, so -- finding you today has been an incredible pleasure.
I’m here to share why you cross your chains.
I was crossing my chains, truly, because my dad always told me to “cross the chains” and I’m GLAD I listened...
my little cargo trailer was not hooked on the ball well, even though I thought it was! I was thankfully on a slower street, 40mph., when I heard a horrible dragging, I thought it might have been the step... NO.... IT WAS THE TRAILER, which was attached to my RV. that had jumped off the ball. A friend came to help me out and he shared.... when the tongue of the hitch hits the concrete or surface, the crossed chains are there for the hitch to fall on sooooo that the hitch doesn’t dig into the surface AND FLIP!!!! OMG. People listen to your parents even if you don’t know why!
I suffer from depression. It can knock me down to the dark smelly "black" water tank. Your videos are great medicine and help put a smile on this weathered old face.
Thanks. When I was sick with my pituitary tumor, I also battled depression. It can affect anyone. I'm glad our videos provide a lift. Hang in there! 👍
Your videos are great. The one where you were out of fuel showed some awsome parts of Texas. What would happen if you pulled off a dirt road and went a few miles into an area where you were not bothering anyone? Is it doable? Or will there be an "Easy Rider" moment where the tractor heads are going to beat your skull in? My generator would cool down my unit inside, the awning for shade and my naked Canadian beauty with her high heel black pumps taking in the afternoon sunset! A real depression buster!
@@bocabec6744 Well, there is some risk wherever you go. I think you are probably safer in rural areas than urban areas, but I guess that is debatable. So I would go wherever your "naked Canadian beauty with her high heel black pumps" feels most comfortable doing her thing. :D
I've started watching your videos recently. Got out of trailer travel about 10 years ago. But last fall we purchased a 30 ft long Sportsmen 260BHLE (no sliders, didn't want the extra weight) with the intent of traveling the west starting in May, but that's not going to happen right now. I am a strong believer of "Not Having The Tail Wag The Dog." We have a Ford E250 High Top Van with Trailer Pack and it weighs 6000 lbs, 1200 lbs more than the trailer. I also believe that the high top van (8 foot tall) breaks-up the wind because I never had a sway problem in the west with the old trailer and trucks on the 2 lane roads would not push the trailer around. I'm enjoying your how to and not to videos, reminders on new tips. Thank you.
You two do a real service to the RV community and I appreciate it very much, your information is very helpful.
This is first of your videos that I have seen and I instantly subscribed. I hope to start my travel trailer journey next year and appreciate the "20" valuable and practical tips.
On the tire pressure...
I used to do the same thing you mentioned on both the RV and the boat (the boat gets WAY more miles put on it than the RV.) I always had the issue with tires blowing out a ~1000 miles or even less than that. When I went and put 4 new Marathons on my boat after a blow out, the guy said no matter what, inflate to the max PSI. No matter what. The tires are designed to take that inflation from the heat. Since then, been keeping the tires at 50psi (205 75 R14.) Going on almost 2000 miles on these tires, running like a top! Living down in south east Texas hauling 75-80mph down the interstate 200-300 miles, 110 degrees, no issue at all.
Just my experience
I towed a 36ft. 5th wheel for 18years in the U S and Canada never had an accident or blown a tire lucky i guess and every thing you guys have said is true kudos to you both I had to find out the hard way my tow vehicle was a 3500 dodge dually with a Cummins diesel