GM Lifter Knock Repair - Carb Cleaner Method - HOW TO / TUTORIAL
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Repairing / Reducing noises associated with lifter knock with carb cleaner to remove build up / sludge, which reduces oil flow to the rocker arms. Performed on a 2002 GMC Sierra.
Run lucas or seafoam first, if that don't work run 1/2 qt transmission fluid (drive vehicle a couple days on both methods). Usually have pretty good luck freeing up lifter(s), unless completely bad unit and don't have to pull valve covers. Can wait on oil change until regular interval too.
Cheaper and easier.
Happy wrenching.
God Bless you and yours.
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Thanks for the vid ! I have a 2000 Silverado 5.3 with 308k. Runs great no issues but had to replace the trans one time.... Over the period of going 308k miles I have had the lifer tick and sometimes worse then others.... What I have done is just as you did except I did not remove the rocker arms. What I did was to make sure that your rocker arm is all the way up and spray carb cleaner right into the rocker hole in flows right down the push rod in to the lifter. Works great! Thanks again!
excellent job. I drove thousands of miles on a faulty lifter and it ground up the cam shaft in my ls1. this video gave me a pretty decent push to fix my car without any worry.
Thanks for posting this. My 2005 5.3 has 105,000 on it now with no lifter or valve noises but I do get a whiff of burnt oil outside the truck after driving in aggressive traffic or at higher speeds. I figure it's probably time for new valve cover gaskets and this video showed me exactly what that will entail. I might consider doing this cleaning procedure as a preventive measure too while I have everything apart to replace the gaskets. Just makes sense to combine it all just before my next oil change.
The 2005 doesn't have a afm so your truck doesn't have the kind of lifters that get stuck
Everything went great, did exactly what you did, changed out the oil tapping has completely stop!!!!! Actually feel like it gave me a little more feel of power when I floor it!!!!! Again great video and thanks!!!
Great video! We OCD people really appreciate all of the fine details you point out. I'm considering being lazy and trying the ATF engine flush but I'll probably get off my ass and do it this way. Thanks
Thanks for this video. Did this to my 6.0 Vortec. 5 or 6 of the rods seemed to be gummed up. This took care of 90% or more of my ticking
How did it work out on your 6.0. Thinking of doing mine in my 05 H2 as the tick is just barely audible. But considering its 2500 for the top end rebuild, I think its worth a try.
@@markroeder3174 it worked well. It took care of most of the tick immediately. It did come back within a couple of weeks so I imagine there was more sludge in the engine that made our way to the rods but it wasn’t near as bad as before
Thanks for creating the video, it has given me the knowledge I need to fix my truck!
This guy is great! He is also intelligent and should have his own show! What does he do for work? I hope his great talents are being utilized. He is top notch is explaining the how to's and why's, and very articulate, really seems to be near genius level, no joke! I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4, they are known for noisy lifters, I think the heat from the twin turbos, helps heat the oil and clog things up over time, I am inspired to record my friend/mechanic trying this same procedure on the VR4. I may try a motor flush and then Rislone engine treatment first, before this partial tear down. Thanks for this excellent clip!
Seems somebody has a serious man crush🤣
I think you would direct more carb cleaner into the lifter by just spraying through the pushrods.
Precisely, reinstall the pushrod and use it as a straw to direct the carb cleaner directly into lifters!
One of the best videos I saw good-looking bro keep the hard work up
Probably the best video out there on this process. I do agree though that you could likely just spray through the rocker hole. Also was not expecting to hear Anti-Flag as the outro, but good addition lol
Change your oil more often my truck has 208k miles no noise I change the oil every 3k miles now your way of doing will work as well. 👍🏼
thank you, you save me lot of $$$
my mechanic was talking about a new engine for my van.
Be careful while using the red straw. If that comes of the nozzle while spraying it'll shoot right down into the engine.
Run a quart of ATF Transmission fluid in the engine (replace a quart of engine oil with ATF transmission fluid to compensate). There are vids on it AND it works well and a preventive measure.
Took my car to mechanic for tick sound. Said lifters issue. Put quart of ATF with fresh oil. Drove car for a week. No change. Noise still present. Pulling lower intake sometime this spring. Car parked till then.
Thank you so much man!!! It worked fine!!! Knock is gone!!.. thanks to this process I realized that the oil pump has gone out. No oil going up to the heads. I have GMC Yukon XL with about 248,000 miles. It runs perfectly so was surprised when this happened. Thanks again!
You can actually plug the coils back in and the plug wires too with the valve cover off. Thus will allow you to check your work by starting the engine up before reassembly. Oil splash will be minimal at idle.
You can leave them unplugged and it will run on 4cyl
@@whocares8158 Yep, I've done it both ways and they both work.
If you think of it in time you can pull the fuel pump relay and run it out of gas first. On the first start after doing this I will crank it with the starter until it develops oil pressure then insert the relay and start it first start. I will be doing this next week in hopes of getting #6 firing again. Thanks for the idea! I have been noticing slower pressure rise in the morning start causing it to knock. I may have to R&R the oil pickup Oring just to be sure the oil pressure will stay good till around 300.000. maybe.
Very educational...thank you for all the step by step information
I have a 5.3 liter V8 GMC YUKON, and it has the same knock on the driver side. Thanks for the video 👍
I have a 2002 Suburban LT, it knocks in the mornings when I first start it up, sounds like a badly adjusted tappet, but after 30 seconds it disappears. I got in touch with GM, I was told all 5.3 Vortex do it, it is something to do with the different metals used to manufacture the pistons. I used to have a Ford Cosworth that did exactly the same. There's no problem if the tapping clears once the engine warms up. Gus UK
It works great no need to remove rockers
Good vid bro. Have a 2005 Silverado doing exact same thing. Looks like I know what I'll be doing this weekend. From a fellow technician, "Keep turning them wrenches." Thanks.
Did this video fix your problem?
By "head cover", he means to say " valve cover". Interesting remedy, thanks for the video!
He did say it finally! Around 21 min into it. Lol
Yeah, i use a head cover to prevent making more babies
Great video brother I got to do my wife's Suburban so here I go.thank you and God bless....
"Push rod" is their proper name. Since you are comfortable with carb cleaner inside the engine, you could also use the push rod as the point to squirt the fluid in and down the push rod that clean goes and right into the center of the lifter. That engine needs oil changes more frequently as there is much brown building up.
Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine about a week before you do your oil change keeps that shit from happening in the first place. And that shit's been around since 1923 and I personally have been using it for over 50 years.
It works!!!
@@goneflying140 don't do that on these afm and dod motors, screws up the lifters
Royal Purple all the time
I've poured a little transmission fluid down on the lifters and it fixed the noisy lifter problems
This actually worked relatively well! It didn’t work right after I cleaned them but I replaced the gasket on the driver said and he’s really nulled that down to the lifters possibilly being clogged. Will probably do the passenger side as I still get a light tick when idling now
Aerosol B12 chemtool, God’s gift to Mechanics!
I was getting ready for the straw to get shot out of the spray nozzle....my kind of luck.. I think I would just spray it down the rocker pushrod hole. Or do some marvel mystery oil maintenance.
Man, I got lucky...I just pulled the Valve covers , took my rubber nosed nozzle and shop air, and blew out the rocker-arm oil hole on every rocker-arm and wallah ...no more lifter click ...and oil-filter change adding Resoline to the oil ...!
Someone gets it .. I'm over here like 🧐 how's it gonna "run out" lol .. I guess he meant into the oil passages .. great place for a solvent to be.
Why didn't you put the pushed back in and then spray the carb cleaner down the hole in the pushed which would be directly over the oil hole in the lifter. Then you could pull the pushed back out and lube it.
There is a difference between the knocking sound and the "tapping sound." You can often get rid of the knocking by just using the best gas for a couple tanks... The tapping requires his procedure, and "possible" replacing a lifting rod. You can test this before taking it apart by pulling the plug wires while auto is running. If it dies from just the one pulled at a time, this is your bad lifter.
Cheep fix is doing this method, or since it is all open, you could replace all the lifters on that side, then put it back together. Don't forget to make sure your gasket is in good shape before tightening down cover. You don't want to have to take it all apart again.
Good video for us who don't have the money, or skills to go too far with it yet need some kind of solution for awhile.
Thank you.
Have to pull the heads on LS engines to replace the lifters.
Great video but wanted to share my experience. My 2005 Tahoe 5.3L had a ticking valve. The first or second valve on the drivers side. Would come and go but very irritating. I replace the valve cover on that side and tried the Chemtool spray to no avail. The problem is the O-ring on the oil pickup tube in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and found the o-ring was cracked which was causing lower oil pressure and the oil not to travel to the front lifters. I replaced it and no more ticking.
smart man!
did you see a drop in pressure on your oil gauge or was it just happening to those pickup tubes from the crack?
There was a slight drop, it was below 40 on the gauge, but the tapping was really bad. After I changed the o-ring the oil pressure did raise some.
+Adam Brock you must be rough on cars,that new truck shouldn't be running like that. you never changed the oil ever?
IM ThE PLug , it's hardly new. It's a 2005 with 245000 miles on her. The oil is changed religiously. This seems to be a common issue with these motors from forums I have read.
did the job no more ticking nice vid 👌👍
Great video, I'm planning on doing the exact same job on my 2004 Tahoe this weekend, I have a tapping issue on it and have been doing it for about two weeks now!!!!! Thanks for the great video!!!!!
How did it go?
@@HeavySakONuts must not have went so well spraying oil remover into the oil passages .. better off leaving the assembly in place and jetting a bit of air down each hole on the rocker
Nice work bud. Like your video and the way you went about the task at hand. Was straight forward, liked the way you just focused on certain aspects of the task at hand. Like your choice of gloves and shirt ;-)
Very explicit, thanks for sharing this video..I didn't expected that you knew about mechanics besides boxing CANELO lol...(with all due respect).
Why remove the rockers and push rods ? I mean you can use the oil port on top of the rocker to spray into the push rod leading directly to your lifters. No chance of messing up your adjustments or dropping the straw from your carb spray inside the engine. I would also have turned the engine over a couple times and checked push rods while tightening but Good info for cleaning tactic. I would use Rislone before doing this method but I did like the whole idea seems like it would work well..
I can see a common problem for that engine that causes a start-up ticking sound. Your front driver's side exhaust manifold bolt has broken off. No doubt that will make a ticking sound at start up until the metal expands. Looks like possibly your driver side rear bolt has broken off also. I used one of the $30 clamps you can buy online and my ticks went away.
I’m going to do this on my own for the first time , what tools do I need ? Besides not mixing them up , anything need to be torqued to specific or left a little loose ? Or is it just replace and reassemble?
A million thank you s!!! Worked like charm!!!!
I found with my LS1 engine that the hydraulic lifters were getting stuck in the engine block because dirt and/or varnish was getting caught up between the lifter(s) therefore causing a very loud tapping sound when the engine warmed up a bit.
The lifters got mushroomed a little bit & it has caused the valves to hit the piston crowns on about 3 of the cylinders as the valve rocker arm was holding the valve open longer than normal so that threw the valve timing out.
So, I've ordered a set of hydraulic lifters for about $100 AUD on EBay (cheap),I still need to order other stuff such as gaskets, a timing chain kit, new radiator, etc.
I'm working as a temporary worker at the moment but I'm sure that I'll get a permanent job this week & can pay for the rest of the parts,oil,radiator coolant, etc.
Don't forget the new camshaft to go with the valve lifters. New lifters require a new camshaft or you will damage the existing cam with new lifters. Not a simple job for the non-experienced DIY.
i saw you used berrymans b-12 chem tool that is a really nice thing to break up all that nastyness it really works better than seafoam cost just under $4
Looks like a good idea.
Why don't you use one of the pushrod tubes to get the carb cleared down to the lifter galley
I didn't remove my rockers I just sprayed carb cleaner right through the oil hole in the rocker. I kept spraying it down until it flowed through freely. Changed the oil in the truck and the tick was gone.
scott coulter did you talk the rocker out to spray threw the hole or did you spray threw the rocker hole?
Sprayed through the rocker hole.
scott coulter I think you're right Scott. Doesn't seem like removing the rockers is going to add much benefit. There's a hole to put your carburetor cleaner tube down which is the actual oil flow path you're trying to clean.
That is correct. I sprayed down until it flowed freely.
I'll try that. Thanks.
Good lord 10 mins just to clear a path to the valve cover... Makes me appreciate my Geo/Chevy metros (Suzuki motor). Japanese design/engineering thank god for em'!
Great step by step. Thank you
I used marvel mystery oil mixed with new motor oil, next I want to change "O" ring on pickup tube, then depending on oil pressure improvement, oil pump. (Problem: loss of oil pressure at idle and lifter noise) the mystery oil helped the lifter noise a lot. GM seemed not to have chosen the best "O" ring material for pickup tube. After reading the following post, I think I'm on the right track.... ; -)
Did the o-ring help the oil pressure
I HAD LOW OIL PRESSURE AT IDLE WHEN WARM ON 2005 SIVERADO 5.3 REPLACED PICKUP TUBE O RING AND WAS PERFECT AFTER! COULD BE RELEIF SPRING IN OIL PUMP BUT MOST LIKELY ITS THE O RING!
Good advice, I had the problem with my v-6 vortec, I got rid of the noise but I could not get a ride to town for new oil and had to put back the old oil and the noise came back after 18 miles and never went away after despite repeating the cleanings.
Great tutorial man! Thanks for posting
This video was perfect I jus did this to my 01 5.3l z71 Tahoe and my lifter noise went away. Only difference was I used those long rocker rods to spray B-12 down into the lifters and afterwards I changed my oil and added seafoam to it. No more ticking
Sn99kwsb was the tick u have when warm or just cold start
It was pretty much only during a cold start and it would last about 15 minutes then go away but this was a temporary fix now I use hyperlube oil treatment to keep the tick away
Sn99kwsb my 2001 yukon denali 6.0 ticks at idle only when warm all the time once rpm up it goes away oil pressure is good exhaust manifold bolts good been doing this noise since i bought it with 60k miles now 148k miles still doing tried everything from synthtic oils to most additives still there only 20w50 oil seem to help little not sure what else to try
Ali Saleh well u should try hyperlube with your 20w50 or I might jus have to get new lifters are u sure u dnt have an oil leak?
Sn99kwsb i ll try hyper lube with 20w50 if it does nt work i ll have to ignore the tick noise and turn radio volume up till i save some $$ for newer SUV
The "head cover" you refer to is called the valve cover for those who don't know.
Replace all the lifters, I was a warranty technician for years at GM, this guy is funny. Piston slap and knock keep that in mind.
@@epasternak4206 yeah once they are damaged they need replacement anything else is just a temporary fix to get you home
actually it is a rocker cover..
Vally cover is under the intake
@@dc-ir3ow he said valve cover not valley. either rocker or valve is fine by me tho more valve than rocker. for my fathers generation it was rocker as they took them off often to adjust them. at tech school everyone called it valve cover.
i've always put a quart of marvel mystery oil in the crank case and driven it around for about a day or two before changing the oil, or in bad cases, i've put a bottle of chemtool into the crank case, driven the vehicle around the block a few times to get the engine warm, let it cool untill its just warm to the touch and did an oil change, this process atleast directly targets and back flushes the hydraulic lifters themselves, not a bad video
You could spray it down the pushrod oil hole but any sludge or crap inside would go down into your lifter.
Hey bredda, BIG UPS! Madd wicked video!
The expertise, thee skill, the due diligence and patience you exemplified...Mi know everybody has their opinion but I don't know how this received any THUMBS DOWN smh. You were very detailed and concise! I APPRECIATED THE UP LOAD...Rispeck!
Mi have a question. Mi Ranger Rover 2000 started making this lifter sound. Mechanic has confirmed the tick is a lifter. All the products I am reading about far as b-12, Lucas oil, Rislone, Marvel mystery, Xado Maxium etc....All thee internet/youtubers swear by these products! Do you recommend using any of those products to fix my Rangie problem or just have mi mechanic do the procedure you did? The noise just started about 3 weeks ago...Only when i get rolling. Then it goes a way after I am driving.
I am bout to sell di truck as Mi relocate to Brazil- Should I tell the potential buyer this all the problem is...very easy to fix say's mi mechanic. Or should I fixed this before selling?
Big ups once again on the Video...Any feedback on this matter is appreciated. Look forward to more videos as I am subscribed! Respeck!
You do realize when you spray the solvent into the lifter it doesn't exactly "run down" ? The lifters sit in a bore and are fed pressurized oil thru the sides .. so it's just loading the oil passages with oil remover essentially ..
Yah that don’t sound like something I want to try
@@michaelbaskinmichael9862 on a side note ... It does typically work .. you can also try jetting some air into it with a compressor
Man.Thanks for that....
Thats my plan for tmmrrw..👍👍
Why can't you put the push rods back in after you clean them, and spray the cleaner right down the push rod so it ches directly into the lifters??
Did you notice the missing exhaust manifold bolt heads sheared off, check both sides. If the exhaust manifold is leaking you will hear a ticking noise as well and soon a check engine light for lean codes. I would think you could have just sprayed thru the oil hole in the rocker arm that would directly flow into the lifter.
I noticed that too. I just installed exhaust manifold clamps after seeing some of the bolt heads missing. I no longer hear a ticking sound when cold. I highly recommend the clamps.
You are freakin awesome. Thanks. Ima fix my truck
Great video man well informative! Have the same exact knock!!! Now U have boosted my confidence in taking on this mini job with filling me in on how exactly to do this. Thanks!!!!!
who else got nervous about the staw falling in the hole? lol. about to try this ughhhh. last ditch effort before I take it in
Whatever happend? Did it work??
@@adamsecrest6108 unfortunately no it didn't work. Took the whole top apart and did everything in the video. I thought it was a stuck lifter but it was actually the piston head had a crack. Ended up saying screw it and drove it for another 8 months before I got tired of the noise. Just ended up putting a new motor in. But I did try this trick on my dad's truck and it did work. I recommend using Lucas oil stabilizer with good quality motor oil. Once you free up the lifter the Lucas has a lot of zinc in it and will stay inside the lifter and keep it full of oil. Best of luck to you
Great video, I have the same engine and want to try this but just wondering if the tick came back or not ?
Why not just spray the carb cleaner down the oil hole of the rocker it will drip down through the push rod then down to to lifter. No need to take anything apart.
so would this work
he just wanted to do it the hard way
I know right?
Just pour a bunch of B12 in the oil hole. Let it do what it does. Then change the oil in a day or two.
Can someone validate this for me?
I tried that on the LS1 motor in my Holden Commodore (I live in Australia) and that didn't work,2 things I found can cause that noise 1 - varnish buildup in the lifter bore, the engine heats up after a few minutes and the lifter plunger expands causing the plunger to stick inside the lifter housing , 2 - dirt and/or dust gets trapped inside the lifter body causing the oil flow to become restricted through the hydraulic lifter, dirt sitting between the check ball seat and the check ball allows oil to flow up through the pushrod(s) thus not allowing the lifter body to fill up with oil therefore results in the lifter(s) making a "clacking" sound.Mine started doing it last August after changing the oil pan gasket.After 11 months of changing the oil, the engine only has a faint rattle on startup sometimes when warm but the loud annoying clacking noise has gone away so I'm happy with that.
I did exacly the same on my Avalanche 3 years back. The tick came back after few months but I believe it would dissapear it it was repeated. Now, I have the same problem on my Escalade and will first to pour some AT in the engine, ride it for few days and if it doesnt help I'll remove the valve cover...
Did the trans fluid help??
@@NORCALPYRO_ nope. I changed the oil pump (high flow) and it still had a pretty low pressure... Sold the car.
I have a H2 2008 hummer with the same problem TICKING ON FIRST MORNING START UP but goes away when up to temperature. I will try the carb spray into the pushrod let soak then followed with a blast of compressed air just to make sure I get any loose slug out. I'LL KEEP YOU GUYS POSTED ON THE END RESULT.
bajaforce1 Well?
you spent so much time telling us what you did to your engine to stop the lifter noise, but you did not follow up to tell us if the work you did got rid of the lifter noise the next morning. Please tell us.
oh it got ride of it yep they never ticked again it locked up the next day
@@dubba85 🤣
doesn't always work. just did it. sometimes when it's broke, it's broke!
Don't believe he was referring to a broken lifter. He directly said if it stops tapping once warmed it most likely is. Broke is broke. Even hot broke is broke
be careful my ticking problem was my exhaust manifold was cracked sounded like lifter tick
Hey young man very good job my friend very nice
There's an easier way: add 1 quart of atf to your oil and run it for a little bit before changing your oil. If your truck doesn't leak oil (rare for anything GM) then use full synthetic oil. It flows better than conventional oil.
excellent! ive heard someone filling their oil filter w ATF on every oil change. and/also running a full qt of ATF replacing aqt of oil.
If im doing this as a lil preventive maintenance, should i change the oil right after or would it be good to drive till my next oil change in 1k miles
I know you mean well. But ... Pulling those studs out is a NO NO!. You should never remove a rocker stud if there is a nut on top of the rocker, use a wrench to hold the stud tight in the head, and remove the nut from the top. Also you better know how to set the lash on the rockers once you put it back together. Or you going to have misfires, cross firing, and in general you may not even get the truck started. As I said, I know you mean well, but what your doing will cause extream damage to the valve train if you make a mistake and over tighten a rocker, and if you don't torque those studs back into that head, they WILL come loose and then your going to need a new head. Any of the 5.3l 5.7l Vortec engines made from 95 to 98 will have pressed in rocker studs , but if the engine or heads have been rebuilt by someone that knows what they are doing, the studs may have been removed and screw in studs installed. These are not meant to be removed from the head once installed, they will twist on reinstallation and can break or come loose. To accomplish what your attempting to do, you are better off to pour a quart of transmission fluid in the engine and run at an idle for 15 to 20 minutes then drain the oil and change the filter and refill the oil. Sometimes you have to do this three times, and some folks use kerosene rather than transmission fluid. be careful with kerosene and pouring it in a hot engine may flash on you, IE it is highly flammable, but then again so is the Chemtool Carb cleaner. You hit a hot exhaust header and you may end up with a 2nd degree facial burn, your hand blown off when the pressurized Chemtool can explodes, and a fried truck, with either one. Think I'm kidding about any of this? I was a GM GoodWrench ASE certified line Mechanic. I have rebuilt over 150 SBC engines, and more than 50 Big Blocks, not to mention Buick, Pontiac, and GMC's. Good luck if you keep this up, you WILL toast an engine sooner than latter.
manOman im actually glad. i drive a clean 91...i would have both covers on and off and tuned in less time. :-) newers are to complex IMO
What's clean 91 means to you
Great vid. I'll try to fix my truck this weekend.
Good job. Thanks for the info!
Theo Frank I’m broke I do it my self I have tick sound in my engine
the tube of the carb cleaner fell into the rod hole, now I have to take the heads off....geez
You could just crank it over and have the oil pressure blow it out then grab it. Should be about 60 psi, and have no problem pushing that tiny tube out.
Michael Weal vacuum
Thanks for the warning.
Just use a magnet to retrieve it
😂😂😂
Built like a rock there are a lot of people watching his video
If it has wheels or tits, it'll give you problems.
I wonder could you just spray some fluid down the push rod tube without disassembling the rockers? Or would that not help?
I realize this video is a lil older, but will this work with an actual collapsed lifter? Thanks!
m.ua-cam.com/video/1MJMf3nnQhQ/v-deo.html
Could you spray carb / throttle cleaner or brake cleaner into the oil fill?
Just so folks know when torking the rocker arms you have to bring #1 to TDC then tork the intake 1,3,4,5 and exhaust 1,2,7,8 then turn engine 360° and tork intake 2,6,7,8 and exhaust 3,4,5,6. That is the proper order.
Hydraulic lifters tend to make a tappy noise if the the engine is not serviced properly. The sludge build up eventually restricts the oil flow. The best way to get rid of the noise is to remove the valve cover and the timing cover. Release the tension on the camshaft gears. Remove the camshafts and lifters. Clean the lifters and put everything back the way it was removed (just the opposite way).
If thats too much of job for you. Simply flush your engine with diesel engine oil every fortnight/month. Use good quality synthetic oil and oil filter. Over time the sludge build up will decrease and the oil pressure will increase. Will not fix the problem but somewhat remedy the problem to some extent.
Lastly dont waste your time watching a 25 minute video coz there is simply no quick fix to the problem.
Kamal Benipal I have a 2001. 8.1. I bought it with 69k. It always knocked at start up. From what I read, this is normal for that engine. 496 c.i. One powerful engine.
This motor doesn't have gears and there's only 1 camshaft. You would have to remove the intake to get to the lifters. You have absolutely no idea what you're talking about here. Jesus..
You actually have to remove the heads to get to the lifters on a LS based engine.
SNELLERIZED GARAGE
I am surprised so many of these commenters do not know you have to pull the heads on an LS based engine to get to the lifters (to remove them). Hence the whole reason this dude in the video is going through all this to try to devarnish/desludge them. I have a higher mileage 5.3 in my 2001 4X4 silverado that I am going to do this to real soon. It would be nice to just pull the intake, remove the lifters, soak them in some type of cleaner, inspect them and re install them like the older gen small block chevy's...........lol. But these LS based engines are really just so much better than the previous small blocks.
CHEECHMUN
I have been searching for a 6.0L to replace my 5.3 in my 2001 silverado, but that 8.1 would be awesome......
I know a guy that messed with diesel engined silverados for awhile, got tired of them and now has two silverados with that 8.1 engine in them. He said they are much cheaper to maintain and will pull a house.
guess you can use a pushrod to spray the lifters directly...
First thing I thought of duh
Well what happens if your small hose on the end of spray can blows off into engine I have had them blow off just cleaning parts
Most of the carb cleaner will have evaporated once the engine is hot, and will be collected by the pcv system. Unlikely to do damage. Carb cleaner when oil is cold and thick. Evaporated once oil is hot and thin.
Once you torque down the rockers to 22ftlbs do you need to rotate the crank or are you good to go without checking anything?
Why not fill the crankcase with kerosene and let her idle for twenty minutes?
I was so stressfull that the straw fall in the push Rod Hole ahahahah
Just for FYI. The reason we have this lifter problem with our LS engines is the lifters are manufactured by Mitsubishi for GM. They made them with a undersized oil hole in the lifter. So,it takes a small amount of sludge buildup to clog the lifter. Thus causing the tapping. When you use the carb cleaner or trans fluid it flushes the lifter sludge out. And eliminates the tapping. Thanks GM and Mitsubishi for screwing up a great engine. So, if you want to eliminate the problem completely. Install a aftermarket performance cam and lifter set. And be good to go!
Never knew Mitsu made parts for GM, good stuff to know. And yes Mitsu makes undersized lifter oiling holes cause I have the same problem with my Eagle Talon except mine actually sound like there knocking lol.
As a vendor who is responsible for manufacturing, Mitsubishi would not be able to deviate from a General Motors spec. on the "undersizied hole" you mentioned. A vendor needs to get approval from the manufacturer to change the dimensions. On the other hand General Motors could have given Mitsubishi both Design and Build responsibilities. In this case Mitsubishi would have designed the hole "undersized" and GM would have approved the design.
yep you are right but when a American car break Down blame the japanese
Gary Molnar
I believe theres an updated version of the stock lifters...
So whatever faults there were in the first design, should be remedied now
Beuno Aires
Did you have lifter noise the following morning when the engine was cold?
Good job on the video!
20:40 ... the random washer hanging out between intake and exhaust of #1 is making me nervous!! Hope you caught it before reassembly
or perhaps...... ATF in the oil. One recommendation was filling the oil filter with automatic transmission fluid when doing an oil change. and/also having 1 full qt of ATF replacing 1 qt of oil. Run normally, or before an oil change.
So the rocker arms don't go adjusted. They go just bolted all the way down
hello all, cant you just spray through the rods since its a sort of tube , and its directioned directly to the point where you need the carb cleaner to dissolve the sludge? just asking so i dont have to worry about separating all the pieces.
I kinda thought the same thing.
If there's sludge stuck in the rod preventing oil circulation and you push it down with the spray, there might be a chance that it blocks the rod again. Or ends up in some other place, like bearings.
@@mattijur4374 But if one gets to that point, they should just remove the rod, clean it and then put it back in and use it to funnel the spray to the lifter. Probably a good idea to clean the rod anyway if you're in there.