Thank you. I appreciate the video. I am happy there is no background soundtrack. A voice-over would be welcome though. I like hearing the maker talk about why they do what they do - from wood selection to plans used. Thanks for posting.
Видео вдохновляет! А ещё очень много простых и изящных решений в плане создания эффективного ручного инструмента! Результат труда сам за себя говорит и перевода не требуется! Мастеру респект и большое спасибо!
So good to see you back again! I found you many years ago with your bench building with only hand tools series! I really enjoyed it, almost as a logic puzzle. Hand tools are so relaxing to use and to observe.
Any chance you could do a video covering the mechanics of this? I’m having a hard time with these larger frame saws. Love your work and appreciate what you do!
I echo John P's remarks . I bought a saw of this type some years ago in a junk shop in France but the attachment of stretcher to uprights was achieved by added-on thin cheeks at ends of the stretcher. Rex Krueger recently posted something similar but used mortice and tenon construction. However he cut his stretcher too short and I suggested he could have solved the issue by not cutting a new stretcher but simply adding the cheeks. Great advantage of the design, though, is that it does give you the chance to squeeze a tad more cutting depth, within reason, by shifting the stretcher further up from the blade.
I made quite a few frame saws based on Xin Quansheng's videos, which are very good. What is notable is that the blade holding hardware has no handles. This makes sense because even on European saws you're supposed to hold the frame, not the handle which are for turning the blade and correcting twist. The chinese also use the saw much more efficiently on a low bench.
Many thanks for this video! here (Eurpe) frame saws are the to go tool for pretty anything. But we lost knowledge about it, and craftmanship too. What re your impression on use and design of those old beauties?
Thanks! Like any saw, they take some practice and getting used to. They’re a bit more top heavy than the English and American style saws that most people are accustomed to using today. But after a bit of practice, they work wonderfully.
Thanks Bob. I miss the podcasts but I enjoy the videos more. I especially enjoy this format. Out of curiosity, how much extra time does filming add to the completion of a project? I've been thinking of filming my hand tool woodworking. Mostly so that when my daughter is older she can see me making the pieces of furniture. Any suggestions for lighting and video equipment to use and what do you use to edit the video? I'd like it to be decent quality and I'm guessing there is a sweet spot that balances quality and cost. They would be silent in your format and similar to what Mr. Chickadee does.
Filming a build results in it taking at least 2-3 times longer. Don’t underestimate the additional work in getting the camera angle just right, possibly reshooting from a different angle when you realize that you got your head in the way, etc. It usually takes me longer to set up for a shot than it does to actually shoot a clip. Planning is key. Don’t just turn the camera on and film everything. You’ll spend weeks editing the 40 hours of footage you captured down to 15-30 minutes. Plan the shots you need to get the message across. Most of my clips are no longer that 1-2 minutes, then edited down to just a few seconds of what is needed to communicate what I need to. Editing talking videos is much more challenging. As for equipment, camera depends on what I’m doing. If it’s a complex build that I need to be really precise with setting up angles, I’ll use a DSLR for the primary camera with a wireless lavalier microphone system. For secondary and sometimes tertiary camera angles, closeups, etc. I’ll use my iPhone and sometimes a second iPhone. The cameras on these phones are actually excellent for secondary cameras since they are so small and easy to keep out of your way. For quick, simple videos I’ll sometimes just use my iPhone camera. Tripods for everything are non negotiable. For lighting I use some cheap soft boxes from Amazon with daylight color LEDs. My overhead lighting is also daylight color LEDs. For editing I use iMovie on my MacBook. It’s free and all I’ve ever needed.
@@BRFineWoodworking Thanks for the information. Glad to hear that an iPhone can do so much. I have a Mac at home that likely has iMovie. My wife has a good DSLR. I will have to further think about it. From equipment it is just a tripod and light boxes (no need for a mic as would be silent or just ambient woodworking sounds). I do have a blog which documents what I have been doing. Just thought the video would be a nice thing to add but it might be too big of a time investment of 3x. Of course, I could just make on video and see how it goes.
Why did you leave the piece in the middle free to move rather than make rebates on the side to keep it from sliding up and down ? Does this serve a purpose?
So what is the purpose of driving that metal in st the end? Is that your signature? Love the classic looks. Do you like it better than English style panel saws after some use?
It’s a maker’s stamp. I tried to get a closeup of the impression but it didn’t come out very clear. I still prefer my English style saws, but the bow saws are growing on me. I need more time to get better with them. There’s definitely a different feel to them as they balance differently. Their center of gravity is much higher.
Been thinking about making one of those for a while. Did you make a rip or crosscut saw? I was thinking of making one for re-saving small stock at the bench.
Unfortunately I don’t have plans. I don’t work that way. I typically start with an overall dimension and then work relatively from there. The stretcher is sized based on the blade length. The metal blade holders based on the length of the handle, the width of the vertical pieces and the amount needed to project beyond the vertical members to engage the blade. The toggle is sized based on the locations of the other components. If I measured my saw, it would likely have some really weird dimensions because I’m not really working to any kind of predetermined spec. All I can say is that I started with 15” long x 1 5/8” wide x 13/16” thick vertical members and I bored 9/16” diameter holes for the handles. After that, everything was sized relative to those pieces and the blade I was using.
I watched and went back and forth several times. I cannot figure what keeps the stretcher from sliding up and down on the "uprights", if that's what they're called. Maybe tension alone? Good video, though. I'm trying to make a small one with a broken bandsaw blade.
The verticals, handles and toggle are all white oak. The middle stretcher is white pine to save on weight. A hardwood stretcher would make the saw way too heavy.
Thank you. I appreciate the video. I am happy there is no background soundtrack. A voice-over would be welcome though. I like hearing the maker talk about why they do what they do - from wood selection to plans used. Thanks for posting.
Видео вдохновляет! А ещё очень много простых и изящных решений в плане создания эффективного ручного инструмента! Результат труда сам за себя говорит и перевода не требуется! Мастеру респект и большое спасибо!
So good to see you back again! I found you many years ago with your bench building with only hand tools series! I really enjoyed it, almost as a logic puzzle. Hand tools are so relaxing to use and to observe.
Well done, it’s a beautiful tool. I’ve enjoyed the silent build, very relaxing 👍🏼.
I have been watching your work with interest. Very neat and professional work, congratulations and best regards 😀.
Any chance you could do a video covering the mechanics of this? I’m having a hard time with these larger frame saws. Love your work and appreciate what you do!
Very nice work
thank you
Well done Bob.
I echo John P's remarks . I bought a saw of this type some years ago in a junk shop in France but the attachment of stretcher to uprights was achieved by added-on thin cheeks at ends of the stretcher. Rex Krueger recently posted something similar but used mortice and tenon construction. However he cut his stretcher too short and I suggested he could have solved the issue by not cutting a new stretcher but simply adding the cheeks. Great advantage of the design, though, is that it does give you the chance to squeeze a tad more cutting depth, within reason, by shifting the stretcher further up from the blade.
I made quite a few frame saws based on Xin Quansheng's videos, which are very good.
What is notable is that the blade holding hardware has no handles. This makes sense because even on European saws you're supposed to hold the frame, not the handle which are for turning the blade and correcting twist. The chinese also use the saw much more efficiently on a low bench.
Браво! Хубава бичкия стана.
very good work, greetings from Indonesia.
Many thanks for this video! here (Eurpe) frame saws are the to go tool for pretty anything. But we lost knowledge about it, and craftmanship too. What re your impression on use and design of those old beauties?
Thanks! Like any saw, they take some practice and getting used to. They’re a bit more top heavy than the English and American style saws that most people are accustomed to using today. But after a bit of practice, they work wonderfully.
Thanks ordered one today
Thanks Bob. I miss the podcasts but I enjoy the videos more. I especially enjoy this format. Out of curiosity, how much extra time does filming add to the completion of a project? I've been thinking of filming my hand tool woodworking. Mostly so that when my daughter is older she can see me making the pieces of furniture. Any suggestions for lighting and video equipment to use and what do you use to edit the video? I'd like it to be decent quality and I'm guessing there is a sweet spot that balances quality and cost. They would be silent in your format and similar to what Mr. Chickadee does.
Filming a build results in it taking at least 2-3 times longer. Don’t underestimate the additional work in getting the camera angle just right, possibly reshooting from a different angle when you realize that you got your head in the way, etc. It usually takes me longer to set up for a shot than it does to actually shoot a clip.
Planning is key. Don’t just turn the camera on and film everything. You’ll spend weeks editing the 40 hours of footage you captured down to 15-30 minutes. Plan the shots you need to get the message across. Most of my clips are no longer that 1-2 minutes, then edited down to just a few seconds of what is needed to communicate what I need to. Editing talking videos is much more challenging.
As for equipment, camera depends on what I’m doing. If it’s a complex build that I need to be really precise with setting up angles, I’ll use a DSLR for the primary camera with a wireless lavalier microphone system. For secondary and sometimes tertiary camera angles, closeups, etc. I’ll use my iPhone and sometimes a second iPhone. The cameras on these phones are actually excellent for secondary cameras since they are so small and easy to keep out of your way.
For quick, simple videos I’ll sometimes just use my iPhone camera. Tripods for everything are non negotiable.
For lighting I use some cheap soft boxes from Amazon with daylight color LEDs. My overhead lighting is also daylight color LEDs.
For editing I use iMovie on my MacBook. It’s free and all I’ve ever needed.
@@BRFineWoodworking Thanks for the information. Glad to hear that an iPhone can do so much. I have a Mac at home that likely has iMovie. My wife has a good DSLR. I will have to further think about it. From equipment it is just a tripod and light boxes (no need for a mic as would be silent or just ambient woodworking sounds).
I do have a blog which documents what I have been doing. Just thought the video would be a nice thing to add but it might be too big of a time investment of 3x. Of course, I could just make on video and see how it goes.
Why did you leave the piece in the middle free to move rather than make rebates on the side to keep it from sliding up and down ? Does this serve a purpose?
No specific reason other than I’ve seen many Danish originals that were built this way. It doesn’t move in use. The tension holds it just fine.
So what is the purpose of driving that metal in st the end? Is that your signature? Love the classic looks. Do you like it better than English style panel saws after some use?
It’s a maker’s stamp. I tried to get a closeup of the impression but it didn’t come out very clear. I still prefer my English style saws, but the bow saws are growing on me. I need more time to get better with them. There’s definitely a different feel to them as they balance differently. Their center of gravity is much higher.
Been thinking about making one of those for a while. Did you make a rip or crosscut saw? I was thinking of making one for re-saving small stock at the bench.
I made one of each.
I so want to do this build. But I would need plans and some instructions, it a bit beonnd me and I've never actually seen one of these sawsup close.
Unfortunately I don’t have plans. I don’t work that way. I typically start with an overall dimension and then work relatively from there. The stretcher is sized based on the blade length. The metal blade holders based on the length of the handle, the width of the vertical pieces and the amount needed to project beyond the vertical members to engage the blade. The toggle is sized based on the locations of the other components. If I measured my saw, it would likely have some really weird dimensions because I’m not really working to any kind of predetermined spec. All I can say is that I started with 15” long x 1 5/8” wide x 13/16” thick vertical members and I bored 9/16” diameter holes for the handles. After that, everything was sized relative to those pieces and the blade I was using.
@@BRFineWoodworking
Well..... That's a good start. I guess my best plan would be to suck it up buy a blade and have a go.
I watched and went back and forth several times. I cannot figure what keeps the stretcher from sliding up and down on the "uprights", if that's what they're called. Maybe tension alone? Good video, though. I'm trying to make a small one with a broken bandsaw blade.
Yep, just tension.
@@BRFineWoodworking Gotcha. Thanks
i what's kind of wood have you used for the stretcher?
The verticals, handles and toggle are all white oak. The middle stretcher is white pine to save on weight. A hardwood stretcher would make the saw way too heavy.
@@BRFineWoodworking Thanks! On all my frame saws stretchers are softwood too, looks like spruce. Was surprised to see white pine holding up just fine,
Hi. It's me again. Wanna askin about this saw blades. They are very rough for dovetails?
Yes, these are for rough cross cuts and rips. For dovetails you would want something finer.
Make the saw first, then add the chamfers. But good job.
Bravo!!
You made one of a frame saw didn’t you ?
Yes, I’ve done a 4’ resawing frame saw too. Years ago.
Bob Rozaieski we have the video ...?!
It’s not as much of a build video as it is a use video. ua-cam.com/video/ZPoeos5MRNY/v-deo.html
Hmm, Tried & True should check their french… it's "mélange" not "malange", and if it really has to be title-cased, it would be "d'Huile" not "D'huile"
So... how does it cut?
It cuts well. I tried it out at the end of the video before applying finish.
Oh, I missed that part. Thanks! (See, without your comments I'm all lost!)
😁
Where do you get the blade?
I got mine from Highland Woodworking.
Was the wood 3/4”
13/16” thick
Time to pick up a larger chisel and spoke shave, those are clearly too small
Were did you get the blade
Highland Woodworking. It’s a 700mm replacement blade for the ECE saw.