The QIDI X Smart 3 is possibly the fastest printer I've used!
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
- Well, this is a FAST review for a FAST printer. The QIDI Tech X-Smart 3 is insanely quick. Watch the video to see what I mean.
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I absolutely love that Bambu did their thing last year and then immediately all the Chinese printer manufacturers went "yeah cool, thanks, us too" and turned "make X1 but cheaper" Into the next version of the Ender-clone race-to-the-bottom.
Bambu is the new Prusa.
That's kinda how these things work, if a product sells well then it will steer the market, although I'm not sure it's a race to the bottom, we'll see what the creality k1 brings to the table.
This comment is ridiculously underrated, ain't that the truth. 😂
@@workingTchr try dealing with their customer support and then compare again.
@@BigfootPrinting You're absolutely right. My bad. Actually, I made a request for help about 6 weeks ago. Yesterday I saw on my phone that I got a call from Shanghai! I guess it was them. I resolved the problem. But yeah, no comparison there.
$299 on Amazon right now in the USA. Someone in comments said they got it for $280 even. (Edit: $299 on the Qidi website with 5% off coupon makes it $284!) Bargain at that price! I mean imagine if Creality or Bambu Lab released a small enclosed high temp Klipper printer for $299. Every single 3D printing channel would have a review out ASAP. If it was any good they'd be singing its praises. This thing is honestly being slept on. Makes way more sense than an A1 Mini capability wise if you don't want the AMS. The ability to print pretty much any material and rather fast is awesome.
its £250 on their website in the uk so im really tempted on getting this, its just long-term I dont want to deal with a lot of issues that would be expensive to fix and such. need it for my engineering projects
@@legendaryshadow6428 Solid price for sure. They just launched the Q1 Pro which is $439 with a coupon in the USA right now. Check out the reviews most have been very positive. Bit more capable than this smart. Would probably be worth the extra money long term.
Nice review. I've been offered one of these but hadn't realised how capable they are. I've just agreed to try one for myself after watching your video👍
They took quite a lot of inspiration from the Bambu X1...
i was gonna say this screams of the bambu hardware...
10 months later, you still can't get a better out-of-the-box printer for the price. I just ordered one as a dedicated machine for Voron / Rat Rig / etc parts in ABS+ or ASA. I paid under $500CDN for it, cannot wait to put this thing through it's paces!
It seems bambulab has really scared the competition into creating some awesome machines at a very reasonable price. Great video as always mate 👍🇦🇺😊
I don't see anyone really beating the A1 at that price point. It just does incredibly great prints time after time and really quickly. I was amazed! My Prusa Mini is maybe 8 on a scale of 10 where the A1 is 10 and I thought it was a great printer!
Pretty impressive for the price. I agree that 180mm is a very useful build volume.
Thank you very much for the great initial review. Now I’m curious if they will create a face lift for the iFast as well. I have a Craftbot 3 which is okay. But an enclosed CoreXY with an active heated chamber, IDEX and the updated features that the smaller siblings have, would tempt me.
I so wish there were more idex printers out there 👍👍
It's good to see the mid range printers of the world finally taking on many of the coom features from the diy world.
I've been nagging manufacturers for the last year or so to make corexy printers 😁
Looks like an extremely solid machine!
I have seen 3 live streams of the larger machines and 2 machines have not worked out of the box. not so solid.
@@dejedejsson Interesting. Good to know
I bet the filament cutter is there because qidi is literally copying bambu lab. BL has a filament cutter so they put in a filament cutter. Of course the BL filament cutter is there primarily because of the AMS but sometimes these things just happen when you're copying someone else without fully understanding why everything is the way it is.
It's part of bambu saying they are branching out to other OEMs and supplying their kit to them. Would he better if bambu would restock their own stores so we can buy parts or filament for that matter. Ah the joys. This printer will sell very well.
@@TechieNI while the stuff on this printer looks very similar to the BL printers it's not the same and definitely not being supplied by BL. It's just a copy
@@DoRC I'm just going by bambus blog but yea might not be directly from them but darn sure it's the best copy yet lol
@@TechieNI Yeah I have a P1P and I'm familiar with the parts on it. The ideas are all the same but none of the parts are the same. I suppose maybe the actual carbon fiber rods could have come from them but I doubt it. I don't think they would be interested in creating competition for themselves right now.
@@DoRC I suppose it's a bit like creality, they sell their own parts to other suppliers the same way as car manufacturers share parts too.
As a manufacturing engineer and a materials jock, I"m just dying to know what "hardened carbon fiber" material is. (ROFL marketroids will say ANYTHING)
errr annealed :D
Maybe they meant "hardly"
Yeah sure they get it up to a nice cherry red then quench it:)
Must be graphene! 😅
Bro just reading what he’s been told to promote
looking forward to your K1 series review!
Heh
Creality is pretty dodgy, seems they have not yet developed features that they claim are add ons, like the Lidar.
Nice review. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for watching it 👍😁
I've owned Qidi printers for the few years and can say the support is very good and parts are easy to come buy
Good to know!
In the last couple of shots of the supports and such inside, it appeared to me that they were 3d printed parts as I believed to have seen layer lines, which leads me to believe that one could upload repair parts and print them in different colors or even possibly modify them for added strength and light weight... Great review. I am glad to see companies competing in the space.
I don't think they are, but you're right that you could print and replace the whole gantry if you had the cad files for it, just as a voron has printed end blocks. Time will tell whether it becomes popular enough for that kind of mod to be made.
I have an mks skipr and the exact same emmc module, it comes with a micro SD to emmc adapter and operates exactly as an SD card when plugged into PC (which is how u initially flash it with the os)
Ah... interesting!
Looks pretty awesome, Ive been keeping a close on on these since the release. The max seems like a very appealing option at the price point. I heard you mentioned it is the fastest you have used, have you ever tried Bambu printers? It seems like most companies are trying to establish themselves in that market now, IE; k1, xmax 3 etc. I love seeing the competition in the market, its been so stagnant for so long.
I believe it's a touch faster than the Bambu.
@@LostInTech3D wow that's so awesome! You should see of they would give you a Xmax 3 to review, or trade then one you got. That would be awesome to see since it has the crazy build volume in addition to lidar heated chamber and all metal hotend. That on would seem to be a bambu killer for sure. The smart build volume is a little small for my taste but definitely feature packed.
@@alexthomas5658 Where are you seeing Lidar? I'm not seeing that option with the Xmax 3 or any of their printers. Just standard auto bed leveling.
it is a big heating block, the filament cutter is to circumvent heat-creep when retracting the filament. I guess mostly useful for low temp filaments. nice review btw.
That seems a valid reason. But it should be in the instructions, as you should only use the cutter on low temp materials than, as the cutoff will still be in the nozzle. So if you unload Policarbonate using the cutter and load PLA afterwards, you might have problems to load the PLA. Purging the remaining polycarbonate out with 200°C nozzle might be tricky...
Maybe this is the reason for the mentioned configuration "error" heating up to 260°C for filament change? So every filament still inside the nozzle can be purged while loading the new filament; even if it is PC?
To avoid heatcreap on unload the better way actually is an optimized unloading sequence, first very fast purging molten filament out and than very fast retract the filament out of the nozzle.
I wonder if the cutter is there to prevent a plug getting stuck during an unretract? Meaning, perhaps they know that the filament will be in such a shape that it's likely to break within the hotend when moving backwards. If that's the case, maybe they want the filament cut above that re-solidified plug, and then let it melt and purge when the new filament loads.
An interesting idea but I got tpu stuck in there at one point through my own stupidity...and no it doesn't help having the cutter 😁😂
I think the cutter is just there because it's there on the Bambu Lab original… 😆
Also the "weird" head positions shown for filament change are pretty exact copies of how my X1C does it.
@JoeAiello789 It might be there for exactly that reason. I've got two QIDI printers and the heads occasionally have that issue. Bit of a pain to strip the head to remove a piece of filament. Making a clean cut and then feeding new filament into the extruder should help prevent this.
I won’t get mine for a week 😢 but thanks for the in depth look at everything! Looks great. Would love to compare it to the rest of the ultra fast printers hitting the market right now!
exciting times ahead!
I have 3 printers, I don't need this printer....I don't need it!
Its not 394 in the UK you need to add VAT as the site doesn't do it till checkout.
Did you choose UK? When i change USA to EU, it recalculates and not add more taxes.
I bought one of these second hand, my heat sink is also lop sided, and I've seen another video with the same thing, so I'm wondering if they put them all in on the skew :)
Is _that_ how you are supposed to read the name!..
Given the difference between 12 and 18cm beds, it's really quite compact.
What is that yellow filament? I think the cleanest cube of them all, or is that just the colour.
That, is kingroon filament!
I wish i could just buy one of those large extruder gears. Looks like when it goes, you get to replace the whole $60 toolhead? I don't actually intend to buy a Qidi, as good as it is, i just wonder if i can incorporate the extruder bits into my design, just the little bits.
Got mine for £280 during Christmas, absolutely unit this printer is and dirty cheap too!
BRO IM SOO EXITED FOR THE NEW GENERATION! i fuck9ing love technogoly
it is not strange to cut the filament before change... It just happend to me yesterday again! small ball formed at the end during change and filament stuck in extruder! I had to to disassemble everything! :( and I spent good 30 minutes to clear output hole from extruder (aluminum hextrudort). So to cut off filament and pull out clean end is briliant I think.
is there a link to the testing sheet you mentioned?
There will be when I upload it 😁
it can easily reach 65c chamber because it's so small, so also another huge benefit.
The cores are the same as in the Raspberry pi 3 or zero W so that should be more than fast enough.
Its going to be interesting what fun problems we see in the future with 3d printers coming with full network connected Linux boards in hands of users who have little interest to get involved in that and manufacturers who have shown little interest/experiences in supporting such devices. And those glued in carbon rods are concerning.
But the price is incredibly good and having an enclosure is great for technical filaments. A raspberry pi right now is half of that already if you were to build your own Klipper machine!
Agree on the carbon rods, though I guess the solution ultimately is to replace the whole gantry, it's only a couple of plastic pieces with pulleys in. Someone with CAD ability would have to design them, though. That ain't me :D
Does this one have the issue of it's bigger brother where the z screws are not secured to the outer frame, but only the inner plastic floor. This causes the bed to lose level when printing with the heated chamber
There is no heated chamber on this model
Is there a way to tune in input shaping, or is it just set at the factory?
It runs when you set up the machine, but given you can (currently) get access to ssh and fluidd, I can't see why you can't tune klipper completely
The board appears to have a port for an accelerometer.
The accelerometer is fitted as standard, you can run input shaping any time through the menus.
0:31 do you see the vertical lines on the carbon rods here? I have a bambu lab X1C that has these same lines on it, and I dont know what is causing it. I was getting some vibration noises during a benchy print, and thats when I noticed it. I also found some metal flakes on the smooth rods, so I am trying to figure out if this is some kind of chatter caused from the vibration in the bearings? Any idea if thats what it is, or is the carbon rods like this from the factory? I noticed the lines on mine only in a small section on the far left, but now its about half way across both the rods.
They actually came like that. I can't speak for the bambu
Might be filament dust buildup or buildup from VOCs. My x1c gave me prompts to clean the rods with IPA after printing abs a lot.
@@mournitenchou2921 I only did 1 of the 17 min benchy in PLA when I noticed the lines, so its none of that. I already cleaned it and even greased the smooth rods as well, but the lines are getting worse the more I use it. The first printer I returned had flawless carbon rods, but a bad smooth rod bearing, so I'm not sure whats going on with this second machine.
@@LostInTech3D I cant find any information on this either. I am going to open a support ticket so its on record just in case the bushings fail down the road.
@@user-lx9jm1wo3h you’re not supposed to grease the carbon rods. The bearings in the tool head are brass with graphite inserts which are consumables, slowly wearing out by friction which lubricates the rods
Funny to recall that the Ender 4 was a CoreXY design which is what the TronxyX5SA is almost a clone of...
Haha we don't talk about the creality corexys 🤣
@@LostInTech3D Never even heard of the Ender 4. The Ender 6 was interesting at the time. Since then a dozen more designs have come out but not CoreXY. Creality should produce a calendar with "Printer of the Month".
@@petercallison5765 Ender 7 - CoreXY
The Ender-4 was an Hbot that looked like slapped together spare parts. The Ender-5 took the cubic frame, went back to standard Cartesian, and gave it an Ender-3 aesthetic. The Ender-6 is the coreXY machine of this design branch.
sir, is qidi smart 3 still great for beginners? I'm struggling between neptune 4 pro, qidi smart 3 and bambu p1s..
they're all good for beginners, I think probably the qidi would be hardest out of the three.
@@LostInTech3D thanks a lot. I was highly disappointed with the orca slicer issue in Bambu and considering buying other ones. are neptune, qidi smart 3 print quality comparable with Bambu?
Hey, it seems the link to the data leads to a 404 error. Can you share the Google sheet?
Now we need a X1 Mini
Hey Cool video... certainly not last in tech!
Haha for a change 🤣
Quite honestly I want to see an open source implementation of these carbon rods. Vorons now use aluminium extrusion and a linear rail which is much heavier so I'd like to see us trending towards using rods again
Quite honestly I'd love printers to not use consumable materials for their motion systems. These usually run with graphite impregnated bearings.
Does anyone know the lifetime of those?
Yeah, I'm not sure either. Also there are some 6 year old accounts of someone using carbon rods if you Google hard enough. It's been messed about with for a while in the DIY scene
@@ulaB can you not use normal linear bearings on them?
@@covertpluto I don't think carbon rods are as hard as hardened steel. I've had printers with cheap steel rods that got grooves from the balls in the linear bearings. I don't think carbon rods would survive that abuse. But I am no expert on it.
@@covertpluto Nope, you will damage rods.
Just got my X Smart 3 in and I cannot get fluidd to connect. can connect with QIDI Print, but nothing else. How did you get access to fluidd?
check my link to the website, at the bottom there's the custom port number, you need that!
@@LostInTech3D Thank you, i did find that on your site about an hour after asking here. How did you find that out? I couldn't find any info anywhere. Documentation is very lacking.
Also as of a few days ago there is a new firmware version. Have you tried that to see if some of the software things you noticed are fixed?
I don't like the lack of comparison while also saying how it's the next big step in mid range FDM printers. The P1P is an obvious and easy choice to at least compare a couple things with. They're very, very similar printers.
Can't compare what I've never used
@@LostInTech3D Yes, but that doesn’t mean you can’t go look at the product page and make a few judgements. This just feels like you or the sponsor don’t want to acknowledge any competitors. Which is fine, but I believe it’s wrong to blindly say it’s the next step in mid range machines, especially if you haven’t tried one of the Bambu labs ones yet.
It's not sponsored, I haven't been asked to do anything.
If you watch my reviews you'll find I never really compare machines without a good reason. This machine is a klipper based corexy which is why I sat it next to its closest relative, the voron zero, the other klipper based small corexy.
In cura, I used the voron zero profile, because it's the closest relative out there.
There's no conspiracy here. It's a klipper machine. It's basically a voron zero, commercialised.
@@LostInTech3D it’s a paid promotion, sorry. My problem is the statement of it being the next step in mid range machines. You can’t make that claim if you’ve only used this one of the new generation printers. That should be plenty enough reason to give a quick comparison.
Don’t get me wrong, I love seeing cheaper and more feature packed models coming out, I think that machine has some great potential. But it seemingly only exists because of Bambu lab.
Look pretty awesome, seems to be a good Bambu X1 clone.
Let this arms race begin, all I care about is the value for money of the machine: )
@@LloydSullivan725 I sell 3D printers and ease and cost of repairs is critical. Enclosed printers can be a problem and custom components can cost triple the price.
$500 is a good price? What would you consider a bad (high) price to be?
Corexy printers almost never come cheap, a voron zero kit will set you back at least $300 before you have to print the rest of the parts
@@LostInTech3D That doesn't seem too bad, $300 pluss another $100 in filament?
@@kurtnelle and then you have to build the entire printer yourself, and thats with the CHEAPEST kit, most are over 500$ lol
Yeah, that gets you a 120mm * 120mm bed though. As Nero says, and it's more for a bigger one!
Good review! I think this needs some extra cooling or that extra speed is mostly pointless and only for PLA.
I think you underestimate just how much of bambu's design this thing shares. No one is saying they invented core xy, nearly every part of the extruder and gantry setup is the same as the bambu down to the filament cutter. I'm glad to see the clones are out personally, but there is a reason everyone is repeating that it's a clone.
Let this arms race begin, all I care about is the value for money of the machine: )
I absolutely want a race to the bottom for Corexy printers
I think we're gonna get one
@@LostInTech3D ender 3 concept here we go
Every time you said the company name, I was thinking... I hope it doesn't get demonetized for what word it isn't, but sure sounds like. Also, did you know this printer is very much like... just kidding.
Hahahaha I hadn't actually noticed, but now I have.
6:20 I see what you did there. Though it is a pretty surface level joke.
Actually I ordered the X-max 3, as I definitly need an activly heated chamber and the bigger size. Still the Smart 3 would be a very nice second printer - if I hadn't already about 20 printers flying around (in different states of tinkering).
It is a bit sad the nozzle is not exactly a volcano, as both Tungsten carbite and e3d ObXidian have simular thermal conductivity as brass but are not available in needed lenght. Maybe an Obxidian could be shortened to fit, but cutting tungsten carbite would be very hard.
Also for higher diameters a CHT would be nice.
Actually the filament cutter in the printhead is to make a perfect tip after unload. Quite sad you can not push it automaticly - but maybe someone construct a servo mechanism to do it. Anyway, a poop ejection should be added also.
The biggest problem on filament changers like the MMU2 or ERCF is to get a perfect filament tip to hazzlefree reload the filament. MMU2 and ERCF use ramping profiles to optimice the tip - but you have to finetune it for your filament, printing temperature, humidity etc. Cutting the filament inside the printhead free you from all this hazzle. But you have to push the rest of the filament out through the nozzle (the poo). Anyway, this allows to get rid of a lot of failiures.
As klipper is used, adding an ERCF should be possible. So it is very sad the cutter can not be used automaticly. The missing poo eject could be replaced in software - using a waste-tower in needed size.
what is the noise like? the bamboo is noisy
its hard to say, in comparison. It's certainly not quiet. I've heard a lot of people say the bambu is noisy so I feel like it must be REALLY noisy
@@LostInTech3D what stepper drivers does it have? The bamboos are bog std.
it's less that, and more whether they are in stealthchop mode or not. I covered this a bit in my 2nd voron vid, but you have to run in spreadcycle mode for faster corexys for...reasons. I really need to make that 3rd stepper motor video and explain all this lol
@@LostInTech3D - as I understand it. stealth-chop and spreadcycle are trinamic technologies. Spreadcycle is a chopper - stealth-chop is just a smoother chopper with trade offs. Increasing the micro-stepping in spreadcycle will smooth the motor function and make the printer run quieter.
I have TMC2209 on my delta which doesn’t have stealth-chop. But it’s far quieter then the drivers that came with the printer.
The bamboo is using dc motor drivers. I am not familiar with running steppers with these but I know you can. I also am unsure how much noise will be a result of this.
Ps - love the videos
Qidi Qidi Bang Bang
🙄
I am really concerned about the CF rods, since they wear like crazy and the dusk is really bad to breath in. Anybody else anticipating a problem with that ?
I personally would rather trade those for aluminum, not a light but way easier to handle than CF.
Dunno, I thought about it and looked it up but can't really find any clear evidence that the dust is any more hazardous than any other random particulate a printer no doubt makes. Always a good idea to run a filter nearby, with er...carbon....
@@LostInTech3D You mean HEPA13 filter =)
as I stated before, i don't like bambulab, at all, however, I think that it was necessary that they appear on the market
I think a version of this would have happened anyway - the MKS skipr pre-dates the bambulab, believe it or not.
@@LostInTech3D makes sense, now, when it comes klipper, i don't think that it will become mainstream, but another option and not anymore that firmware for thinkers (however it's actually that)
After working on a V0.1 Build and getting a Flashforge adventurer 3 lite, I'm actually in favor of the less customizable good quality printer over one made from aluminium extrusions. It should lower the price if designed well and improve out of box performance
My only complaint on the Flashforge is being unable to use Superslicer reliably on it. The firmware runs on a custom set of g-code that results in weird behavior if I use anything other than the Flashforge slicer and customer support didn't send me a g-code list when requested.
it has hardness particles in it. i mean diamonds are made of carbon so i guess they say it has diamonds in it? ;)
I actually quite like flashforge slicer
Looks like a Trianglelab CHC hotend.
The bottom half does, yeah. Trianglelabs were pretty early in the ceramic hotend game, I always wanted to try one
Another Pricey Voron type for those users whom have tons of spare money! And don't care if the bed is small.
I'm not sure you can call it pricey tbh...it's pretty cheap for a corexy
As someone with random voron issues such as random ass heat creep in the extruder, I would deffo like any printer that I can place and just use, no 30 hour build and config, just place it down and print and get good results, p1p or this is the winner and as much as I hate the contraversies that bambu is having overall I will probably still go with a p1p
VORON of that size won't be cheaper than this.
Voron type? What do you mean?
Can’t you just print out the plastic part where the bearings and carbon rods are inserted? It doesn’t look like a very complicated model.
I think if you had any cad skills it wouldn't be a massive issue. It'll be interesting to see if anyone tries.
The Bambu revolution begins
Bambu labs clones are flying off the shelf. Should change it to 2023 is the year of the bambu clones not year of the core xy's lol
Am I really going to have to deal with 900 comments from people telling me bambu invented the corexy 😒
@@LostInTech3DCries in Voron
@@CanuckCreator voron invented corexy. dont cry
Man everyone's trying to get fast now. Idk I'd rather see more energy put into better extrusion modelling, belt beds, and support for materials like HDPE and PP.
Fast sells, I guess.
@@LostInTech3D Seems so. In my experience in practice speed limits are usually determined more by part geometry (cooling time), material selection, extrusion accuracy, etc., then by fundamental kinematic limits. The faster you go the less you can tolerate any flow variability. You typically have more pressure in nozzle, making it near impossible to accurately model extruder state under arbitrary retraction and travel. It's nice to be able to travel ultra fast though.
Tronxy is what happens when somebody copies a copy of a copy xD
Hey now, bambu copied tronxy 🤣
@@LostInTech3D Hhahahah i really don´t think so =)
Tronxy copied Ender 3 which copie Prusa i3 xD
Did they ask you not talking about competing machines or something? Really odd not to mention it’s obvious competitors in the bambu machines even as a comparison.
Yeah it appears the creator didn't hear about Bambu Lab at all
The creator is well aware of bambulab, rest assured 🤣
Honestly, I'm pretty sick of all the comparisons to Bambu Lab, so this was a breath of fresh air for me!
Yeah, I don't want fast prints, I want GOOD prints!
The print quality looked excellent? You can always just slow down walls and tune for quality.
@@802Garage They need to put a button you can just push with all the right parameters chosen for you. Most people don't want to trial and error their way to figuring out which choices to select!
@@joeking433 That's what the quality presets are for. 👍
@@802Garage Where are they? I've never seen them.
@@joeking433 Go to 8:53 he goes over it. In the Qidi slicer (Edit: The current Qidi Slicer is based on Prusa Slicer) there is a "Print settings" dropdown at the very top of the settings. This gives you options like "0.20mm Fine" basic quality, "0.25mm Quick" better for quick drafts, "0.16mm High" for precise good quality prints, and "0.12mm Extra High" the highest provided quality preset which should result in extremely nice prints. There are also presets for the basic filament types. So basically, select an option from two dropdown menus and you should be on your way.
Wonder if thomas salanderer will ignore these printers just because they use his hated klipper "toxic community" firmware.
👀I'm somewhat later into the klipper scene, but I do think it went through a rough patch.
Fans can be toxic sadly. Even if the creators aren't.
Tom bears the brunt of it I guess.
@@LostInTech3D there are other larger 3d printer youtubers who arent as thin skinned as he is and dont boycott products like he does. klipper, then bambu labs. if he keeps it up there won't be anything left for him to review. he's lost respect in the community and is no longer viewed as unbiased, objective or impartial. don't make the mistakes he does.
Scrolling the comments to collect fanboi tears...
In my opinion it still looks cheap on the outside.
2023...See how well all the mfgs. can make a Bambu clone.🤔
It's really a voron clone.
@@LostInTech3Dwhich voron? never seen an assembly fully enclosed voron with auxiliary fan and carbon rods
Doesn't have auxiliary fan, and carbon rods have been around a while on vorons
@@LostInTech3D other models do and creality k1 does some even have lidar and filament cutter and both look surprising like a bambu x1 with pretty much same features seems like inspiration was bambu but maybe they all clone of a voron never seen a voron even close to them printers out box though
Well ....voron wasn't the first corexy by far. Everyone copies everyone, bambu is the latest in a very...very long line.
What I see here is a clone of the voron belt path. I think they did that part first. Id have to look it up.
sounds like "shitty". i hope its better haha
Qidi has been making printers for over 9 years; they are great quality with incredibly good support.
indeed, I had an issue with the printer and they solved it in around 20 minutes by email. Can't complain.
I think they're talking about my pronunciation though lol.
@@LostInTech3D haha I know but it seems like they didn't know about the history of the company
I dont undeterstand why chinese company love to glue every thing lol
you mean on the printer board? stops it coming loose in transit I think
@@LostInTech3D i mean in general creality boards have ton hot glue lol now bambu and this printer gluing the rods down to make them unserviceable
first
hah
@@LostInTech3D thanks cool video! (and cool printer)
QIDI DOES NOT HONOR WARRANTY.. QIDI I-FAST has high failure extruders. Either do not feed filament or plug up easily.
"written in python" is never good. Python has really bad speed and efficiency performance.
You're right, php would have been a better choice.