I always put anti seize on the threads,just in case I have to take it apart someday.. Also if you tighten it in too tight,it might be a major pain getting it out if it breaks off someday.
Right there is also no reason to make it tight as the clamping force is from the bolt being stretched by the nut on the other end. However it is a pain if they are super loose and fall out.
@@latenttweet it's also important to how the threads are made. There's a whole science about it. For fun look up Adam Savage from myth busters he has a great video made about this.
I have a stud installer. 3 rollers that wedge inside it. Works good. No damage. I always understood studs were not to be tightened I to the material. Just fingers tight.
My grandpa showed me this when I started 7th grade. I showed him that an acorn nut did it in less time since we didn't snug it down. That happened when we torqued the exhaust nut on assembly. I'll never forget the look of pride on his smiling face as he said ... 'Thats my boy!' He also made me tighten everything with my left hand because I put too much on it with my right. He hated using cheaters on his ratchets, course only he explained.. never on a fine toothed ratchet. He was realistic and explained that a breaker bar was first option but not always available.
The journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step. This is an excellent "how to" for those just starting out in the field, or even for home do-it-yourself types.
Just tighten the inside nut when done, it will break away from the outside nut and you won't risk loosening the stud again turning the nut backwards...
I showed my brother in law this technique a few yrs ago putting my drag car together he told his auto shop teacher about it who told him it's impossible so he sowed him and was immediately failed and kicked from the class thank you for showing old-school techniques that will always work
Jaime, you’ve gotta be nuts to take on a job like that. After you cranked on it and busted the nuts free, did you charge a stud fee? In all seriousness that’s a solid tip for anyone who hasn’t much experience inserting studs.
A lot of commenters here must be really PROUD to have this bit of knowledge. Because there's quite a few folks saying things like, "If you don't know that, you shouldn't be working on a car." First, there was a time when EVERYONE HERE didn't know that. Maybe the video was intended for others at that skill level? Maybe we need to use humility when teaching others, like our host? Just sayin'.
I never worked on a car but i immediately knew what he was going to do... This is just a logical way to do it, if you don't know it, then you must have a less knowledgeable and logical problem solving brain then the ones who knew...
I just bought exhaust studs that have an allen socket in the end. If you don't have that, just make a slot in the end. You still need this technique all the time.
Might wana comsider a short video on differences between thread chaser and a tap. Amazing how many people (in maintenance industry) dont know the difference.
That's a flex head ratcheting wrench he was using in case anyone is interested. There more versatile and faster then a standard wrench. Good information. TY, M
Honestly, I'm surprised you're not using a stud installer rather than doing it the poor man's way. Obviously both work fine, but a nicely made installer saves a little time.
@@bamojamo no it was a whole engine swap. $300 for labor and $900 for the used engine. The thing is I drilled the hole behind the engine. I panicked when i saw the coolant leaking out lol.
@Edward Elizabeth Hitler “tricky” huh. My brother in Christ, welding a hole in an engine block doesn’t change the fact that the material is now cast differently and will immediately come apart when the engine warms up. That’s why a hole in an engine block always equates to an irreparable engine.
Honestly. I thought: “Yeah, but who are u telling this?”. Then I thought about the Chanel “Costumer State’s”… yeah maybe we need people to tell this trick to the unprofessionals.
Rude... I have taught this to a lot of Electricians and Electrical apprentices.. not everyone knows this trick, or using an acorn nut... I watch as other guys shred the threads on the rod when they install it using channel lock pliers... I show them the jam nut method and poof! It's a huge lightbulb moment for them.. Cuz once the threads are fucked, they're fucked.. always better to keep them clean and intact instead of destroying them..
I learned this when I was a teenager playing with 2stroke moped engines! This is the method I used to remove the cylinder/head studs! I don't remember how I learned it but I highly doubt I figured it out on my own haha!
For someone like me that had no idea how to remove/replace a stud like that, I feel so dumb for not thinking of something so simple... Great tip Jamie!
I've alway did it this way when there wasn't a hex or e torx tip on the stud UNTIL the first time I talked to a performance engine builder that explained why ya snug them down to set and then back off just a bit. Just like an ARP stud, tightening the nuts will turn the stud when you set torque and if the stud is seated it can gaul the bottom threads and start pulling threads out of the hole. Granted, I seat all exhaust studs if they have a provision for a tool, if not they get seated and then backed off just a bit. Have yet to have a failed hole or broken bolt after repairs with this
I ALWAYS use antiseeze with ALL exhaust bolts/studs.. At least a dab on the end of the studs, ensures never getting rusted and they always come out. 😉👍
Well for people with the stupid comments some people don't know this unfortunately the people that don't know this probably aren't going to have watched the first 10 seconds of the video I knew this at 10 years old so for 28 years I've known this if y'all can do the math I'm 38 now but it's a helpful video for someone that's doing something and wants to learn that doesn't have someone that's knowledgeable to teach them so I'm okay with the video definitely a thumbs up
I don't know if it's the best thing to do but as others say I use anti sieze compound I also back it off a little so it's not bottomed out. This prevents breakage in future as the stud will turn out even if the nut has seized
You should use a stud extractor they have them in sizes all the way up to 1 1/4 inch for threaded rod when we put studs in the back of a propeller when doing a screw change has a Navy Diver !!
I always put a little blue lucite on any engine studs. It allows the studs to be removed with little effort and protects the studs from corroding due to dissimilar metals. I never found the blue lucite to interfere with torque requirements.
Ha I was trying to figure out how to do this before you showed us and I thought oh if you used two nuts you could use them and bam you pulled out two nuts lol. Love being smart.
In my experience when you jam nuts together that they tend to slip. So we take a nut of the appropriate size and weld one end of it shut either by just welding it or useing another bolt and weld it to the nut. You just have to make sure you don't mess up the threads. And use plenty of anti seize.
Stud tools work good too. Less work with the jam nuts. And they really don't mare threads up, if they do then a thread chaser will clean the threads up.
If you're installing your own head hardware, you already know what a jamnut is. Let's be real. But thanks for the incredibly helpful video to the mechanical layman who will never ever ever install his own studs. Yeah I'm that guy today. Lol
for installing them i us a capnut with some grease an a ball bearing in it. the grease is to hold the ball bearing in. and the ball is so the nut wil always unthread from the stud instead of the stud backing out.
I do it the same way but I hold the ratchet and turn the engine around. Works fine as well.
That’s thinking outside the box! 😎
I've tried that method but the engine keeps falling off my hands.
@@randalfuentes6953 as long as it doesn't fall in your toes you should be okay.
@@phuckyoutube5927 don't worry, my helper's toe catch the engine, he says it doesn't hurt.
Cant beat that torque
Amused. Hahah, he said “Bust that nut.” Lol
I'm glad other people commented the same thing I was🤣🤣🤣🤣
Wait, are you a Glitch?
Yes, love it
haha funne
Q bevis and butthead voices. We scored!!!
0:49 "Bust that nut" 🤨🤨🤨
Exactly
*sigh* opens comments
Went looking for this comment immediately
👄
Knew this would be here
I always put anti seize on the threads,just in case I have to take it apart someday.. Also if you tighten it in too tight,it might be a major pain getting it out if it breaks off someday.
Right there is also no reason to make it tight as the clamping force is from the bolt being stretched by the nut on the other end. However it is a pain if they are super loose and fall out.
Locktight them in
@@latenttweet it's also important to how the threads are made. There's a whole science about it. For fun look up Adam Savage from myth busters he has a great video made about this.
@@alnov91 arp studs... lol
Dude if broken studs and bolts drive you mad you need to get some easy out bolt extractors they're amazing
I use an acorn nut for my exhaust studs and it works really well with only one socket too
Walnuts and cornnuts work well too.
At least someone else knows there is another way.
I have a stud installer. 3 rollers that wedge inside it. Works good. No damage.
I always understood studs were not to be tightened I to the material. Just fingers tight.
Yeah, you never crank 'em down like that.
That was a very nutty experience if I do say so myself
I'm bolting out of this comment section.
This is such an important lesson, I had to learn on SBC 350s with the water pump fan studs. So helpful to know
My grandpa showed me this when I started 7th grade. I showed him that an acorn nut did it in less time since we didn't snug it down. That happened when we torqued the exhaust nut on assembly. I'll never forget the look of pride on his smiling face as he said ...
'Thats my boy!'
He also made me tighten everything with my left hand because I put too much on it with my right. He hated using cheaters on his ratchets, course only he explained.. never on a fine toothed ratchet. He was realistic and explained that a breaker bar was first option but not always available.
The journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step. This is an excellent "how to" for those just starting out in the field, or even for home do-it-yourself types.
Just tighten the inside nut when done, it will break away from the outside nut and you won't risk loosening the stud again turning the nut backwards...
This is the right way to do it.
Yes sir.
I showed my brother in law this technique a few yrs ago putting my drag car together he told his auto shop teacher about it who told him it's impossible so he sowed him and was immediately failed and kicked from the class thank you for showing old-school techniques that will always work
My mom taught me this when I was like 8 lmao. Elephant never forgets.
I taught your mom that when she was 8 months pregnant...
Congrats Dumbo
She taught me that, too.
Yeah mine to, been busting nuts ever since.
@@scotthemedic Nice lol
Short, sweet, and to the point. Quality content.
Jaime, you’ve gotta be nuts to take on a job like that. After you cranked on it and busted the nuts free, did you charge a stud fee? In all seriousness that’s a solid tip for anyone who hasn’t much experience inserting studs.
I see what you did there 😏
Underrated comment
You have no business being anywhere near a wrench if you didn’t know this
TJ is jealous; your stealing his customers!
@@STARGAUD I guess came out the womb knowin this trick then?
Something so simple yet so helpful.Thanks dude!
Thought everyone knew this ..hmm...and "Bust that nut free" 🤣
I'm surprised that I didn't know this
I recommend backing off just a bit after you bottom out, it reduces the risk of thread stresses being mislocated and causing the stud to pull threads.
A lot of commenters here must be really PROUD to have this bit of knowledge. Because there's quite a few folks saying things like, "If you don't know that, you shouldn't be working on a car."
First, there was a time when EVERYONE HERE didn't know that. Maybe the video was intended for others at that skill level?
Maybe we need to use humility when teaching others, like our host?
Just sayin'.
Yeah I’ve never worked on a motor… lol I make money.. I pay people to do that…
I never worked on a car but i immediately knew what he was going to do... This is just a logical way to do it, if you don't know it, then you must have a less knowledgeable and logical problem solving brain then the ones who knew...
You learn something everyday! Thank you!
Even easier to just get N54 studs with a torx head like I did on mine lol
I just bought exhaust studs that have an allen socket in the end. If you don't have that, just make a slot in the end.
You still need this technique all the time.
Might wana comsider a short video on differences between thread chaser and a tap. Amazing how many people (in maintenance industry) dont know the difference.
That's a flex head ratcheting wrench he was using in case anyone is interested. There more versatile and faster then a standard wrench. Good information. TY, M
DID YOU REALLY JUST SAY TO BUST A NUTT? 🤣🤣🤣 GOOD SH!T BROTHER
Oldie but goodie. Used that for years.
Honestly, I'm surprised you're not using a stud installer rather than doing it the poor man's way. Obviously both work fine, but a nicely made installer saves a little time.
Been using this technique for years on various things, it's a very handy trick to lnow
I broke one.
Then made a hole in the engine trying to get it out.
$1200 to change the engine lol 😂
@@bamojamo no it was a whole engine swap.
$300 for labor and $900 for the used engine.
The thing is I drilled the hole behind the engine.
I panicked when i saw the coolant leaking out lol.
@@excelself god damn that’s a heart sinker moment haha
@Edward Elizabeth Hitler “tricky” huh.
My brother in Christ, welding a hole in an engine block doesn’t change the fact that the material is now cast differently and will immediately come apart when the engine warms up. That’s why a hole in an engine block always equates to an irreparable engine.
OMG you are telling me something I learnt 45 years ago!!!!!
Was waiting for a stud joke, disappointed ☹️
The “bust a nut” joke didn’t make up for it? 😜
@@Big_M_T I’ll allow it 😂
Lube up the stud and tighten it till the nuts bust.
P.S ,I didn't put much thought into that joke, but there's your stud joke.😆
Hey but he said bust a nut! You know what that slang for don't you?
Barney saying “uh oh” while showing the rounded off stud actually made me lol.
“Bust that nut” - nice
Finally. A realistic and reasonable mechanic tip on these shorts.
no anti seize for the steel studs in the aluminum head?hmmm think i know why soo many ls engines end up with snapped studs.
how would anti seize prevent a snapped stud?
@@MacMashPotato Prevents galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals.
Added to my mechanic playlist ❤
Waiting for a "bust that/the/your nut" line from the start, and he delivered.
Was taught this buy an older gentleman with wood working. Great tip
What’s difficult is when they break on a 5.7
Excellent presentation.
Well done.
Soon as he said “bust that nut” I ran to the comments
A man of culture 🙌🏽🙌🏽
someone who doesn't know this trick, he shouldn't be working on an engine in first place.
Honestly. I thought: “Yeah, but who are u telling this?”. Then I thought about the Chanel “Costumer State’s”… yeah maybe we need people to tell this trick to the unprofessionals.
Why shouldn't they be working on an engine? EVERYONE starts somewhere. Just cause you may have learned it years ago doesn't mean they all know it.
Rude...
I have taught this to a lot of Electricians and Electrical apprentices.. not everyone knows this trick, or using an acorn nut...
I watch as other guys shred the threads on the rod when they install it using channel lock pliers...
I show them the jam nut method and poof! It's a huge lightbulb moment for them..
Cuz once the threads are fucked, they're fucked.. always better to keep them clean and intact instead of destroying them..
That makes 2 amigo!
My dad saw me vise gripping a stud and ruining it to remove it. He was so disappointed and immediately showed me this trick. Will never forget it.
That stud has a groove in the end of it for a flat head screwdriver to!!
I learned this when I was a teenager playing with 2stroke moped engines! This is the method I used to remove the cylinder/head studs! I don't remember how I learned it but I highly doubt I figured it out on my own haha!
For someone like me that had no idea how to remove/replace a stud like that, I feel so dumb for not thinking of something so simple... Great tip Jamie!
I've alway did it this way when there wasn't a hex or e torx tip on the stud UNTIL the first time I talked to a performance engine builder that explained why ya snug them down to set and then back off just a bit. Just like an ARP stud, tightening the nuts will turn the stud when you set torque and if the stud is seated it can gaul the bottom threads and start pulling threads out of the hole. Granted, I seat all exhaust studs if they have a provision for a tool, if not they get seated and then backed off just a bit. Have yet to have a failed hole or broken bolt after repairs with this
Excellent video demo!
The good ol double nut. Saved me a few times running studs into cylinders. It sucks trying to do it on bigger studs holding two 24” wrenches
I ALWAYS use antiseeze with ALL exhaust bolts/studs.. At least a dab on the end of the studs, ensures never getting rusted and they always come out. 😉👍
Wow. Like he figured that out all by himself. Thanks for the tip genius. 😂😂
Well for people with the stupid comments some people don't know this unfortunately the people that don't know this probably aren't going to have watched the first 10 seconds of the video I knew this at 10 years old so for 28 years I've known this if y'all can do the math I'm 38 now but it's a helpful video for someone that's doing something and wants to learn that doesn't have someone that's knowledgeable to teach them so I'm okay with the video definitely a thumbs up
I don't know if it's the best thing to do but as others say I use anti sieze compound I also back it off a little so it's not bottomed out.
This prevents breakage in future as the stud will turn out even if the nut has seized
Damn, never thought of this. Badass tip
I busted this move out during my first year in tech school and it blew other students minds. Lol
Jam nuts is a useful technique to know about for more than just exhaust studs.
Seems very similar to setting a lug stud, good video
You should use a stud extractor they have them in sizes all the way up to 1 1/4 inch for threaded rod when we put studs in the back of a propeller when doing a screw change has a Navy Diver !!
I used to do it that way - but a washer in between the two nuts is really good and stops both spinning if you need them very tight 👍
Antiseize helps tremendously in aluminum
I always put a little blue lucite on any engine studs. It allows the studs to be removed with little effort and protects the studs from corroding due to dissimilar metals. I never found the blue lucite to interfere with torque requirements.
Won't threadlocker burn off on that application?
Just wanna take a moment to recognize this man is using a 6 point box end wrench. Legends have spoken of such a tool.
WOW, You really have to teach people this---
😂 I love when everybody fixates on the same phrase!😂
Ahh the double nutt trick. Old one but this saves lives in commercial field
Ha I was trying to figure out how to do this before you showed us and I thought oh if you used two nuts you could use them and bam you pulled out two nuts lol. Love being smart.
It may seem obvious to any mechanic, machinist, but there's a 15 year old watching this who just learned something new.
I like when we're shown how to do things that have been done for 150 years.
Oldest trick in the book works good for getting them out as well
where has this guy been all my life
Orthopedic surgeons do this but the tool goes in the center of the screw pretty cool stuff
This is the absolute first thing you learn as a pipefitter apprentice
And that's the way they teach you in school to do it finally somebody doing it right
I done and do it the same way as I in my training in the truck workshop did greetings from Germany 😁😀
Some studs have driven ends where a tool like a star bit or a hex socket can be used. Those are the nuts you want
I've never used that tip but my dad found it really handy
I put a washer between the nuts as well, makes life a tiny bit easier with the ratchet spanner
In my experience when you jam nuts together that they tend to slip. So we take a nut of the appropriate size and weld one end of it shut either by just welding it or useing another bolt and weld it to the nut. You just have to make sure you don't mess up the threads. And use plenty of anti seize.
Stud tools work good too. Less work with the jam nuts. And they really don't mare threads up, if they do then a thread chaser will clean the threads up.
I do this all the time for installing studs into concrete inserts
If you're installing your own head hardware, you already know what a jamnut is. Let's be real. But thanks for the incredibly helpful video to the mechanical layman who will never ever ever install his own studs. Yeah I'm that guy today. Lol
Ahhh love the comments.. Pure Men.. we all heard one thing and one thing only lol..
I tell women all the time we are simple creatures..
Oh thank God a normal video. I was worried he was about to whip out some kind of bullshit specialty tool
This was nuts!!
“Bust that nut free” 😂😂 shit killed me
I had to watch twice. The first time I could not stop laughing at the "uh no" bit. Only cuz its true.
Always use a thread CHASER to clean threads. Taps and dies are for making threads.
for installing them i us a capnut with some grease an a ball bearing in it. the grease is to hold the ball bearing in. and the ball is so the nut wil always unthread from the stud instead of the stud backing out.
Good idea! 👍
The ole double nut…. Good in many situations!🤣
Nice thanks for the knowledge. 💯
Get longer exhaust manifold bolts and then you can cut them off after using the vice grips to put them on
🤣🤣Yo I’m dead i already knew someone would say something
Good idea to put never seize on the stud before you install
Steel bolts + aluminum heads= galling/seizing. Make sure you put some anti-seize on the threads
Tip: put Teflon pipe dope on the studs so they don’t corrode in the aluminum.
As soon as you said our first nut, I was like OOOOH I KNOW WHAT HES GONNA DO, SMART!
Nice video, right to the info
I did the nut thing in college pretty often. You have to be careful not to really crank the nuts together as you can pretty easily, cut the bolt.
I always use this trick👍.