I’ve usually stayed away from making pants because they never turn out right. After seeing this video I’m going to start making a mock up next week and keep at it till I get it right this time! Thanks for helping me understand where the problem is and how to fix it!
@@dorothysdaughtersews I made an outline of my crotch curve after I got my pants to fit great. I took one front pattern piece and one back pattern piece and attached the inner leg seam. I laid them flat and traced them onto pattern paper. I now have the exact outline of the crotch curve that works for me! I was able to get it right in the crotch area by watching your videos!!! Thank you so much.
I recently made a muslin of a pair of overalls out of some thrifted, fairly lightweight woven polyester. They turned out adorable and fit great everywhere except the seat! I knew that I have a flat, low butt, but wasn’t sure how to fix it, and now I do!! Thank you so much!
Thank you Kim - this is a great series and very complimentary to Karina’s! Between both of you we will all have brilliantly fitting pants! Sharing your knowledge is truly appreciated by those of us who don’t have your level of expertise! Happy holiday and a successful fabric safari! ❤️
Thank-you soooo much for this Kim. I am going to spend time making a new muslin and doing some detective work. It's not just physical time I need, I also need to give my head time to be able to really analyse the issues. I am determined to master pants so this seres I have appreciated very much.
Thanks so much Kim! These pant videos are REALLY helping me! I have never been able to figure out why I always had too much fabric in front bunching up.
Terrific series! If you have a rtw garment that fits well you can lay some “press and seal “ on it and use it to adjust patterns or even make a pattern.
I truly appreciate your effords to learn us how to make pants that fits I'm currently working on my last and final pair of shorts Thank you Kim to giving me tools how to fix my issue of earlier failures 👍❤
This lesson really hit home. I've tried many ways to fix the sway back but always ended up with the gaping waist band. Thank you for showing the fix for this problem. Loved the videos in this series. I've learned so much. Can't wait for your next videos.
I have loads of shop bought trousers that bunch on the backs of my legs. Is there anyway I can get rid of them. I don’t make my own, so your advice wud be very welcome
I love those little pattern shapes. I see you have a dart in the waist. I am making my pants out of polar fleece. Nice and soft and stretchy. I guess I don't use the dart with stretchy fabric? I have so far made a few pants. I have been happy with that I got, but I would like to make adjustments on my next ones.
Hi Kim, I. Did a paper pattern adjustment basically for my hips. Then I did a muslin of that, tried it on…front seems fine but the back top is much lower than my waist line. I have a big butt…lol. I thought I’d try cutting the back crotch open to start. Could I cut the muslin and piece that triangle in? Don’t have anymore muslin around.. if I searched the house I’m sure there are some old sheets I could use. I have never had luck with pants but I have never taken the time to properly adjust. Been reading through lots of instructions and found you on UA-cam. Thank you.
I’ve found that when you do the slash and spread to make the back crotch length longer that when you sew the pants back seam, the center back comes to a point.
In your first video you say add to the top what you took off but you added it and then cut it off, was that a mistake? Found all the videos very helpful and informative, thank you for sharing
Hello! Thank you so much for these tutorials! super helpful for sure, I wanted to know where to begin to fix wrinkles in the back? I can send pictures lol
I would love to help you! So that it benefits everyone, would you post pics on our Facebook group and tag me? If you are not a member, it is Dorothy’s Daughter Community.
Not really. Just start with small amounts until you get it just right. Some of them can actually just be done right on the same muslin. For example, you can scoop a bit more- just remember how much you took the first time.
Thank you for making this video for us. I am learning a lot. BTW, do you have a list of links for all of the "Sew Pants that Fit" videos you made? I would like to watch them all before I make a pair of pants. It will be wonderful to finally have pants that fit properly. Again, thank you.
Hello there, thank you for this series, it does help my fitting journey! I still have a question about how you true the grainline of the pants after the first alteration you showed (prominent calf).
Thank you for all your help. I have a problem no one else seams to have. I have diagonal lines going from the side seam (at crotch level ) toward the inseam below the crotch level. It looks as if the side seam edge (of the back only ) needs to be lengthened. The diagonal lines you show on 2:40 of your video go the opposite way than mine. I wish someone could tell me what to do. All my bought pants are like that too.
Hello, Sigurd! I would live to try to help you. Let’s start here: Are they lines (as in pulling tight) or folds? Folds mean too much fabric and lines mean not enough. So we either need to create room or remove excess fabric by either making that area smaller or the area below it larger if it is from pooling of the fabric. Check this: is your knee placed at the correct level? Email me a photo, or post on our Facebook group and tag me, and together maybe we can find a solution! dorothysdaughter1957@gmail.com Facebook: Dorothy’s Daughter Community
Hello - I'm a new sewist and it is so hard to figure out the bum area!! Thank you so much. Honestly, you made this as easy to follow as possible and your demos and explanations were the easiest and best I could find! Thank you for taking the time to help us!! @ohshesews
Thank you for your hard work in presenting this series. I have struggled with pants for a long time! I have most of the fit problem solved except for one. I have a fold from my outside hip swinging down to my knee. Is this the diagonal folds that you mean for prominent calves which I think I have? The small drawing seemed to be folds from the inseam rather than the outside but the fix shortened the outside which seems to make sense. The second cut you mentioned solves the problem with the straight of grain that I have struggled with too. How to get those legs to hang straight! Just wondering if I have understood this correctly. Thanks
Thank you Dorothy for explaining these fit problems so simply and with examples. It has helped me understand what my fit issues are which is half the battle in achieving better fitting pants.
We have a Facebook group where lots of people have posted their pant makes. I couldn’t get people to send them to me to do a reveal video like I wanted to- camera shy I guess. Here is our Facebook group: facebook.com/dorothysdaughterblog
I made a muslin of a new pants pattern and those diagonal wrinkles showed up for the first time and I've been fitting pants for a lot of years! I put them aside until I figured out what was causing that diagonal wrinkle. Thanks I'll let you know if it works for me.
If you usually don’t get that with pants, double check that your muslin is cut on grain. Another thing you could do is compare the crotch curve to a pair that fits you well- that will help you narrow it down. I wish it were a completely exact science... wouldn’t that make our job easier? 😂
I'm having problems with my stretchy jeans i take them up real good but they want to slide off do I need elastic and how do you do that do you have a video
I made the Winslow culottes shorts, because they are so loose there isn’t much for wrinkles and they fit fine when I’m standing but as soon as I bend down or sit it’s wedge town. Would I fix that with a full seat adjustment? It’s hard to tell since most adjustments go off of wrinkles
@@dorothysdaughtersews lol thank you! Honestly right between the cheeks when I bend down. I was worried that it was going to be drop crotch glad I didn’t shorten the curve 😆
Ive copied the pattern from some low waisted jeans i have that fit me well, but i cant get the waistband to lay flat on my mockup!! I don't really want to curve the waistband because theyre jeans i think it would be weird (the original is straight too) does anyone know how i can fix that another way?? or what i am doing wrong
To truly lay flat, you would have to curve the waistband in the back. But if you want to keep it straight, I suppose one thing you could do is slide some elastic, and just to the back back portion to help bring it down to where it isn’t sticking up.
Hi - There's a video called "8-1 Preview: Transport Controls, Timeline Navigator and Understanding Timecode in LimaFusion" in the "Pants That Fit" playlist. Is that a mistake maybe? I didn't see a contact option in the channel's About tab, so I figured I'd ask here. Hope this helps.
Yep - sorry that’s for me and supposed to be in a private playlist. Oops. I’ll take care of it right now. I’m learning Lumafusion to make better videos!
The Duet trouser pattern from Love Notions has a fitting workbook. Many of the ladies have been using that pattern for their muslin. #aff www.lovenotions.com/product/duet-trousers-for-ladies-2-28w/?affiliates=404
Have to disagree with you on calf alterations.. I'm a professional fashion designer, bespoke tailor and teacher making and teaching couture designs and bespoke suits from my shop in England. I also pattern cut and make traditional Savile Row style trousers. I teach real bespoke suit making including trousers.. There are many factors that underneath the seat area on back creates folds.. Your back trouser rise can be too long , Your seat angle needs to be straightened and back seat scooped out more with inside back seam extended as well .. Also on developed calfs asctiu mentioned, traditional bespoke tailors will shape and shrink a curve around the calf area Aa the trousers are hitting the back of your calves ,you need to add a little extra on each side to stop them from touching and creating wrinkles. ... With sway back figures you will have these problems with long back rise and calf problems,- you have to adjust the seat angle as well. Here's a tutorial I made for a sewing member in my Facebook sewing group who was having problems with her mock up trousers .. ua-cam.com/video/bteICfbcwZ4/v-deo.html
Thank you for your wisdom. Of course, it is not a one correction fixes all, but it is a correction that works for many, namely me. I like to look at fitting like a mystery- we gather clues and as we gather, we get closer and closer to the truth. Every time we go through the fitting process, we learn, we grow and get closer to a perfect fit.
Not I like your teaching style! What if you have a low and flat butt? I think as women get older their butt does flatten out and it does get lower, so I’m guessing this is fairly common? I see it in my friends and my self.
I don’t understand why that fix works if the problem is prominent calves. It seems we should just widen the calf area of the pant leg so the wrinkles release. Hmmm. I believe it works, but I don’t get it!
At first, I felt the same way. But, I don’t think it is so much how BIG your calves are, but the shape of them in relation to the rest of your leg. I’ve had this problem when I weighed 130 lbs. and when I’ve weighed 200 lbs. I think it’s just about the structure of your leg and how to optimize it for you. ❤️
I've struggle with butt and rise fit in all my pants for years. I have only one RTW that fits well. My me made pants fit better than RTW, but they are still a work in progress. I've sewn on and off since 2016 and by trial and error just recently concluded that I need a full seat adjustment, a cylindrical body adjustment and a dropped butt adjustment. In addition, I need to adjust for a short front rise and a small waist relative to hips. And for skinny Jean's, I need to adjust for a large calf. Sometimes I wonder if it is possible for one body to require so many adjustments? A lot of trial and error was required to figure this out. Your pant fitting series has helped me solidify all these adjustments. Thank you for your clear instructions.
@@sewtania4074 Similar journey, started 20 years ago at pattern cutting school, drafted trousers that looked perfect standing but could not move well when walking. Roll on the years did Blueprint course had the same problem. Got husband to film me moving in the trousers and this is what I saw . Bum sits high towards hip, tilted pelvis, full inner thighs, full calves. Made alteration to pattern tp correct, but this pattern only acts as a base. The trousers are then fitted in the fabric with extra seam allowance. Good luck.
I’ve usually stayed away from making pants because they never turn out right. After seeing this video I’m going to start making a mock up next week and keep at it till I get it right this time! Thanks for helping me understand where the problem is and how to fix it!
Very helpful. Thank you soo much
Thank you!
This is BY FAR the BEST, BEST explanation I have ever seen!!!! Thank you so much!
Thank you so much ❤️
@@dorothysdaughtersews I made an outline of my crotch curve after I got my pants to fit great. I took one front pattern piece and one back pattern piece and attached the inner leg seam. I laid them flat and traced them onto pattern paper. I now have the exact outline of the crotch curve that works for me! I was able to get it right in the crotch area by watching your videos!!! Thank you so much.
Thought this might help. Jump to: Prominent Calves @ 2:28 Sway Back @ 8:26 Gaping Waistband @ 11:26 Flat Seat @ 13:14 Low Seat @ 15:11 Cylindrical Torso @ 16:43 Full Seat @ 18:45
Thank you!
Thank you Kim. This series has been really helpful.
I Love your teaching format. Very helpful and very clear understandding.
I recently made a muslin of a pair of overalls out of some thrifted, fairly lightweight woven polyester. They turned out adorable and fit great everywhere except the seat! I knew that I have a flat, low butt, but wasn’t sure how to fix it, and now I do!! Thank you so much!
This is so helpful!! You are so clear and concise with your explanations, thank you!
Thank you Kim - this is a great series and very complimentary to Karina’s! Between both of you we will all have brilliantly fitting pants! Sharing your knowledge is truly appreciated by those of us who don’t have your level of expertise! Happy holiday and a successful fabric safari! ❤️
This video is amazing. Thank you for sharing this wealth of information.
Thank you!
Thanks for your clear, simply put, instructions for these common pant pattern issues.
Thank-you soooo much for this Kim. I am going to spend time making a new muslin and doing some detective work. It's not just physical time I need, I also need to give my head time to be able to really analyse the issues. I am determined to master pants so this seres I have appreciated very much.
Thanks so much Kim! These pant videos are REALLY helping me! I have never been able to figure out why I always had too much fabric in front bunching up.
Terrific series! If you have a rtw garment that fits well you can lay some “press and seal “ on it and use it to adjust patterns or even make a pattern.
That is an ingenious idea! I’m struggling with the fit on a pattern! (Swayback, waist band… too tight around the bum.
I truly appreciate your effords to learn us how to make pants that fits
I'm currently working on my last and final pair of shorts
Thank you Kim to giving me tools how to fix my issue of earlier failures 👍❤
This lesson really hit home. I've tried many ways to fix the sway back but always ended up with the gaping waist band. Thank you for showing the fix for this problem. Loved the videos in this series. I've learned so much. Can't wait for your next videos.
I have loads of shop bought trousers that bunch on the backs of my legs. Is there anyway I can get rid of them. I don’t make my own, so your advice wud be very welcome
Hi from England. Thank you again for this fantastic series. So, so helpful.
Thankyou so much for taking the time to show this helpful video
I love those little pattern shapes. I see you have a dart in the waist. I am making my pants out of polar fleece. Nice and soft and stretchy. I guess I don't use the dart with stretchy fabric? I have so far made a few pants. I have been happy with that I got, but I would like to make adjustments on my next ones.
Thank you Kim
This was a great source to come back to when making pants. Thanks, enjoyed learning.
Very nice video,very helpful thanks you
Excellent video series, Kim! Thank you❤️
Thank you, it’s super clear and really helpfull.
Really helped. Thank you so much
Such a great video. Thank you so so much 🙂
Such good information
Hi Kim, I. Did a paper pattern adjustment basically for my hips. Then I did a muslin of that, tried it on…front seems fine but the back top is much lower than my waist line. I have a big butt…lol. I thought I’d try cutting the back crotch open to start. Could I cut the muslin and piece that triangle in? Don’t have anymore muslin around.. if I searched the house I’m sure there are some old sheets I could use. I have never had luck with pants but I have never taken the time to properly adjust. Been reading through lots of instructions and found you on UA-cam. Thank you.
Köszönöm a videót , sajnálom hogy a magyar feliratozás nem áll rendelkezésre, igy is nagyon jól érthető, és nagyon jó segitség.
Örülök, hogy segített. Dolgozom azon, hogy a videóimhoz elérhető legyen a felirat. Thank you ❤️
@@dorothysdaughtersews köszönöm szépen ! Thank you !!
This was so helpful!! Thank you so much for making this video! :)
I’ve found that when you do the slash and spread to make the back crotch length longer that when you sew the pants back seam, the center back comes to a point.
Use a French curve or hip curve ruler to true the line
Are there any books that show all of these pattern adjustments? I would like to get one.
Buenas tardes. Quiero saber si conseguiste el libro. Para que por favor me des el nombre. De antemano muchas gracias.
Hi im from Centroamerica and i love who you explen , were can i see problems for the front part of the pant thak you
thank you for your video. If you make an alteration on the back pattern piece do you do anything to the front piece of the pants??
Only if it affects where the pieces join together. Most things I covered do not require that.
Thank you for everything!
Very nice
Thank you!
In your first video you say add to the top what you took off but you added it and then cut it off, was that a mistake? Found all the videos very helpful and informative, thank you for sharing
I saw somewhere (I can’t remember where ) to sew your pant seams in a certain order for the best drape. Will you go over this in any of your videos?
Thank you for the information. Happy holiday.🌼🌼🌼
Hello! Thank you so much for these tutorials! super helpful for sure, I wanted to know where to begin to fix wrinkles in the back? I can send pictures lol
I would love to help you! So that it benefits everyone, would you post pics on our Facebook group and tag me? If you are not a member, it is Dorothy’s Daughter Community.
Is there a way to measure so we know exactly how much adjustment to make?? Great video. Thank you so much.
Not really. Just start with small amounts until you get it just right. Some of them can actually just be done right on the same muslin. For example, you can scoop a bit more- just remember how much you took the first time.
Hi Dorothy I made a pair of pants. And when I walk I feel in the knee pull my pants down. Can u tell me why this is happening? Help please
Thank you for making this video for us. I am learning a lot. BTW, do you have a list of links for all of the "Sew Pants that Fit" videos you made? I would like to watch them all before I make a pair of pants. It will be wonderful to finally have pants that fit properly. Again, thank you.
Hello there, thank you for this series, it does help my fitting journey! I still have a question about how you true the grainline of the pants after the first alteration you showed (prominent calf).
Thank you for all your help. I have a problem no one else seams to have. I have diagonal lines going from the side seam (at crotch level ) toward the inseam below the crotch level. It looks as if the side seam edge (of the back only ) needs to be lengthened. The diagonal lines you show on 2:40 of your video go the opposite way than mine. I wish someone could tell me what to do. All my bought pants are like that too.
Hello, Sigurd! I would live to try to help you. Let’s start here: Are they lines (as in pulling tight) or folds? Folds mean too much fabric and lines mean not enough. So we either need to create room or remove excess fabric by either making that area smaller or the area below it larger if it is from pooling of the fabric.
Check this: is your knee placed at the correct level? Email me a photo, or post on our Facebook group and tag me, and together maybe we can find a solution!
dorothysdaughter1957@gmail.com
Facebook: Dorothy’s Daughter Community
Hello - I'm a new sewist and it is so hard to figure out the bum area!! Thank you so much. Honestly, you made this as easy to follow as possible and your demos and explanations were the easiest and best I could find! Thank you for taking the time to help us!! @ohshesews
Thank you for your hard work in presenting this series. I have struggled with pants for a long time! I have most of the fit problem solved except for one. I have a fold from my outside hip swinging down to my knee. Is this the diagonal folds that you mean for prominent calves which I think I have? The small drawing seemed to be folds from the inseam rather than the outside but the fix shortened the outside which seems to make sense. The second cut you mentioned solves the problem with the straight of grain that I have struggled with too. How to get those legs to hang straight! Just wondering if I have understood this correctly. Thanks
If they are in the back, then yes. I have the same.
Thank you Dorothy for explaining these fit problems so simply and with examples. It has helped me understand what my fit issues are which is half the battle in achieving better fitting pants.
Thank you for sharing your expertise! If one has a flat and low rear do you do both adjustments?
Yes. I would fix the flat bottom first and see if you need the low bottom correction.
Did you ever post pictures of subscribers efforts at sewing pants? I haven’t been able to find it.
We have a Facebook group where lots of people have posted their pant makes. I couldn’t get people to send them to me to do a reveal video like I wanted to- camera shy I guess. Here is our Facebook group:
facebook.com/dorothysdaughterblog
I made a muslin of a new pants pattern and those diagonal wrinkles showed up for the first time and I've been fitting pants for a lot of years! I put them aside until I figured out what was causing that diagonal wrinkle. Thanks I'll let you know if it works for me.
If you usually don’t get that with pants, double check that your muslin is cut on grain. Another thing you could do is compare the crotch curve to a pair that fits you well- that will help you narrow it down. I wish it were a completely exact science... wouldn’t that make our job easier? 😂
Thanks, Kim. I see myself in a few your illustrations.
I'm having problems with my stretchy jeans i take them up real good but they want to slide off do I need elastic and how do you do that do you have a video
I’d have to see the pattern or at least some pics. Feel free to post on our Facebook group. Tag me in your post and I’ll try to help!
Don't have a pattered I brought it then I lost weight thank you anyway
I made the Winslow culottes shorts, because they are so loose there isn’t much for wrinkles and they fit fine when I’m standing but as soon as I bend down or sit it’s wedge town. Would I fix that with a full seat adjustment? It’s hard to tell since most adjustments go off of wrinkles
Possibly, but it also could be lengthening the rise in the back, front or both, depending on where you feel the wedgie LOL
@@dorothysdaughtersews lol thank you! Honestly right between the cheeks when I bend down. I was worried that it was going to be drop crotch glad I didn’t shorten the curve 😆
Very informative. And helpful.
The sound decibels go up and down quite a bit. Which makes it hard to hear sometimes and too loud at others.
Your amazing.
Why the adjustment for flat seat is not the opposite of the one for full seat?
Where did you get that little French curve you are using?
I got it in a worship at an expo. We were using half-size patterns to make adjustments
Ive copied the pattern from some low waisted jeans i have that fit me well, but i cant get the waistband to lay flat on my mockup!! I don't really want to curve the waistband because theyre jeans i think it would be weird (the original is straight too) does anyone know how i can fix that another way?? or what i am doing wrong
To truly lay flat, you would have to curve the waistband in the back. But if you want to keep it straight, I suppose one thing you could do is slide some elastic, and just to the back back portion to help bring it down to where it isn’t sticking up.
Hi - There's a video called "8-1 Preview: Transport Controls, Timeline Navigator and Understanding Timecode in LimaFusion" in the "Pants That Fit" playlist. Is that a mistake maybe? I didn't see a contact option in the channel's About tab, so I figured I'd ask here. Hope this helps.
Yep - sorry that’s for me and supposed to be in a private playlist. Oops. I’ll take care of it right now. I’m learning Lumafusion to make better videos!
Done
@@dorothysdaughtersews That's awesome. Enjoy your learning journey! 👩🎓
very helpful. Thank you.
Sim juntar toda sobra e cortar 🤭🤭🤭🤭!!!!
I must have missed some videos, I'll look again, but what is the duet book?
The Duet trouser pattern from Love Notions has a fitting workbook. Many of the ladies have been using that pattern for their muslin.
#aff
www.lovenotions.com/product/duet-trousers-for-ladies-2-28w/?affiliates=404
Dorothy’s Daughter thanks
💟
Have to disagree with you on calf alterations..
I'm a professional fashion designer, bespoke tailor and teacher making and teaching couture designs and bespoke suits from my shop in England.
I also pattern cut and make traditional Savile Row style trousers.
I teach real bespoke suit making including trousers..
There are many factors that underneath the seat area on back creates folds..
Your back trouser rise can be too long ,
Your seat angle needs to be straightened and back seat scooped out more with inside back seam extended as well ..
Also on developed calfs asctiu mentioned, traditional bespoke tailors will shape and shrink a curve around the calf area
Aa the trousers are hitting the back of your calves ,you need to add a little extra on each side to stop them from touching and creating wrinkles. ...
With sway back figures you will have these problems with long back rise and calf problems,- you have to adjust the seat angle as well.
Here's a tutorial I made for a sewing member in my Facebook sewing group who was having problems with her mock up trousers ..
ua-cam.com/video/bteICfbcwZ4/v-deo.html
Thank you for your wisdom. Of course, it is not a one correction fixes all, but it is a correction that works for many, namely me.
I like to look at fitting like a mystery- we gather clues and as we gather, we get closer and closer to the truth. Every time we go through the fitting process, we learn, we grow and get closer to a perfect fit.
Not I like your teaching style! What if you have a low and flat butt? I think as women get older their butt does flatten out and it does get lower, so I’m guessing this is fairly common? I see it in my friends and my self.
I don’t understand why that fix works if the problem is prominent calves. It seems we should just widen the calf area of the pant leg so the wrinkles release. Hmmm. I believe it works, but I don’t get it!
At first, I felt the same way. But, I don’t think it is so much how BIG your calves are, but the shape of them in relation to the rest of your leg. I’ve had this problem when I weighed 130 lbs. and when I’ve weighed 200 lbs. I think it’s just about the structure of your leg and how to optimize it for you. ❤️
I've struggle with butt and rise fit in all my pants for years. I have only one RTW that fits well. My me made pants fit better than RTW, but they are still a work in progress. I've sewn on and off since 2016 and by trial and error just recently concluded that I need a full seat adjustment, a cylindrical body adjustment and a dropped butt adjustment. In addition, I need to adjust for a short front rise and a small waist relative to hips. And for skinny Jean's, I need to adjust for a large calf. Sometimes I wonder if it is possible for one body to require so many adjustments? A lot of trial and error was required to figure this out. Your pant fitting series has helped me solidify all these adjustments. Thank you for your clear instructions.
You sound exactly like me. My fit process was a journey as well!
@@sewtania4074 Similar journey, started 20 years ago at pattern cutting school, drafted trousers that looked perfect standing but could not move well when walking. Roll on the years did Blueprint course had the same problem. Got husband to film me moving in the trousers and this is what I saw . Bum sits high towards hip, tilted pelvis, full inner thighs, full calves. Made alteration to pattern tp correct, but this pattern only acts as a base. The trousers are then fitted in the fabric
with extra seam allowance. Good luck.
369th like thank you!!❤️
indonesian translate please
Thank you!