I'm not sure why this video doesn't have more views and likes thus far, because it's the best one I've seen regarding G8 Fits on UA-cam. Thanks and great job!
280mm Front Rotor is used on the Euro Gen 9 2012 to 2016 Civic 1.4 i-vtec hatch if anyone wanted to keep it all Honda. Fantastic job on the valves one of the best explanations available.
Thank you for the great video. I was apprehensive about ensuring that the position was TDC, I used a straight edge to sign the tick marks with the top of the cylinder cover, this made it so much easier.
I've watched a lot of DIY auto videos in my time, and this is by far one of the best. Clear, concise, well filmed and you did everything properly (and in metric haha) - well done mate, kudos!
Thanks for the video. I’ve never done a valve adjustment job on any vehicle. Just finished mine on my 09 Honda fit. I double checked everything. So far so good. Car is idling better and sounds quieter 👍🏼😎
Great video. Thank you so much. I did this successfully based on your video. Only add would be at the 8:30 mark to use a flat feeler gage on the valve cover edge to line up the cylinder top mark. It was hard to line up the mark visually and I saw this tip (too late) in a different video. I'm pretty sure I got it close, but would have been nice to have been perfect. My '11 Sport has 190K miles and it had never been done but wasn't loud. I did adjust most of them, but didn't get any real improvements in noise, power, or gas mpgs.
Thats what I was thinking, I mean I guess for him the sound was a little better but my 190k '13 sounds like the after and has never had a valve adjustment, ill still probably do it the next time I change the plugs though
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2010 Fit and wanted to know what was involved in doing a valve adjustment. Thankfully, the valves sound ok presently, but I appreciate you identifying the fastener sizes and torque specs. It's amazing how many videos are out there that omit such helpful info. Cheers.
Really outstanding video. You are a natural !!. Unlike my Honda Accord, doing a valve adjustment on my Homda Fit, was far more involved. Thanks for walking us through each operation, step by step !!.
Thanks for the very detailed video. I have a different technique for valve tightening Though. I make all the adjustments with the filler gauge still wedged in the valve, then tighten the nut. My car sounds like a well oiled sewing machine now. Very quiet in fact.
My 2012 Honda Fit Sport has 294,000 miles on it and I'm ashamed to say I've never had the valves adjusted or checked. Recently it's developed a clattering noise that lasts until the engine warms up. Even when the engine is cold it's not really noticeable at idle, but is very noticeable under light throttle. Could this be due to the valves needing adjustment?
It could be a valve adjustment, but also could be that initially the oil isnt reaching all the places it should while the engine is cold but when it warms up it reaches up to the top of the crank case and lubes everything up. I would do the adjustment, and when the valve cover is off look for any sludge or buildup that might be affecting oil while cold. Also before you do your next oil change, run some seafoam high mileage motor treatment through the crankcase for 50-100 miles, this can dissolve some of the sludge and buildup, but make sure you change your oil and dont leave it this way for more than 100 miles or so. I also like to use some motorkote and lucas high mileage oil stabilizer on engines with this many miles, really helps to reduce friction and wear, and if your're hearing noises while your engine is cold youre definitely hearing that wear. add some of that to the crankcase after your next oil change..
I should also say that it could be piston wear as well, the piston can clatter inside of its bore when the engine first starts up, and then as it heats up the piston expands to deacrease the clearance between the engine and the bore. using a bore scope you can look inside each cylinder for damage to the cylinder walls, unfortunately this is one of those things that happens to really high mileage engines, but ive seen engines go for a long time with this problem as well, eventually if the engine is rebuilt it needs to be bored....i would take it really easy on the engine until its warmed up, until you find out what the problem is exactly...
Grease those wheel nuts (do breaks while your down there ) lol. Why dont they ever say how to keep the parts where they can be found and not lost? I would put them in plastic zip lock bags and tape them to the part and number them from first to last items that are taken off as they are in order . And clean the throttle body and replace plugs check everything you can while all that crap is out of your way. Hoses and belts too! Dont forget that valve cover . plug s & throttle body cleaner and your hand cleaner for you! Lol. So does sny one know how much it costs to get it done st a shop?
I had a bunch of maintenance done at 100K for about $1200. That included valve adjustment, spark plugs, coolant change, and a bunch of other routine stuff that would be done more often. I'd bet the valve adjustment was a big chunk of that just based on how much needs to be removed to get there.
i have the exact same engine in my honda jazz (aka fit) do you happen to know where the crankshaft sensor is please? i need to get mine replaced but im struggling to locate where it goes lol and online forums arnt helping !
Patrick you have a like from me and subscribed but the intake valve is 0.15 mm and the exhaust 0.26 mm, you have to adjust again the valve mate..good video
Thank you for the like and subscribe. Intake acceptable range is 0.15 - 0.19 and exhaust acceptable range is 0.26 - 0.30. Setting them at 0.18 and 0.28 respectively means they are within acceptable range and do not need additional adjustments.
@@patrickmorgan4268 0.15mm for intake and 0.26 mm exhaust when the engine it's cold and 0.19 mm and 0.30 mm when the engine is hot mate,remember this think :) have a nice day!
@@agamitzadandanache2379 You're spot on re: hot/cold, although personally I'd be a /little/ conservative if you don't have total confidence in the precision of your feeler gauges and allowing for a little creep when torquing the jam nuts.
@@agamitzadandanache2379 That's actually wrong. First, you're not supposed to do this job with a hot engine. You're supposed to do this cold ONLY. 90 deg F or below. Second, when the engine is HOT you need LESS clearance because metals expand when hot. That's the entire point of having valve clearances.
@@agamitzadandanache2379 First of all, you can't do this with a hot engine, just because the time it takes to remove the cylinder head cover is enough for the engine to cool itself. Second, the service manual clearly states “Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is below 38 ° C (100 ° F). Temperatures are not differentiated between intake and exhaust. This is to be clear to everyone. Mai dandanache, mai, tare ai dat-o tare cu nuca-n perete incercand sa pari destept.
The way you filmed and explained is top of the class teaching material. However, the result compared to the original noise is insignificant to me. Both are noisy.
This engine is way too clean inside. You should change it's oil a lot less often, or it's never gonna wear out. Judging by the outside, this vehicle is in the rust belt. Body will rust out way before any engine issues materialize. The emblem in the grille is crooked. Is this a Hyundai ?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm not sure why this video doesn't have more views and likes thus far, because it's the best one I've seen regarding G8 Fits on UA-cam. Thanks and great job!
280mm Front Rotor is used on the Euro Gen 9 2012 to 2016 Civic 1.4 i-vtec hatch if anyone wanted to keep it all Honda. Fantastic job on the valves one of the best explanations available.
If I remember correctly they come with a 5 lug pattern though, am I wrong?
Thank you for the great video. I was apprehensive about ensuring that the position was TDC, I used a straight edge to sign the tick marks with the top of the cylinder cover, this made it so much easier.
yeah finally some proper and updated fit ge8 vid! keep it up!
I've watched a lot of DIY auto videos in my time, and this is by far one of the best. Clear, concise, well filmed and you did everything properly (and in metric haha) - well done mate, kudos!
Thanks for the video. I’ve never done a valve adjustment job on any vehicle. Just finished mine on my 09 Honda fit. I double checked everything. So far so good. Car is idling better and sounds quieter 👍🏼😎
It was interesting to see that you were able to fit any feeler gauge in the exhaust valve. Mine were jammed shut when I did this job.
They say the Exhaust values get tighter and the Intake's go looser
This looks to be a really quick and simple job.
🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️ by watching this I noticed what I did wrong.. thanks for a great video!
Great video. Thank you so much. I did this successfully based on your video. Only add would be at the 8:30 mark to use a flat feeler gage on the valve cover edge to line up the cylinder top mark. It was hard to line up the mark visually and I saw this tip (too late) in a different video. I'm pretty sure I got it close, but would have been nice to have been perfect. My '11 Sport has 190K miles and it had never been done but wasn't loud. I did adjust most of them, but didn't get any real improvements in noise, power, or gas mpgs.
Thats what I was thinking, I mean I guess for him the sound was a little better but my 190k '13 sounds like the after and has never had a valve adjustment, ill still probably do it the next time I change the plugs though
What kind of mpg do you average? My AT 11 gets like 32-33 and I drive cautiously
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2010 Fit and wanted to know what was involved in doing a valve adjustment. Thankfully, the valves sound ok presently, but I appreciate you identifying the fastener sizes and torque specs. It's amazing how many videos are out there that omit such helpful info. Cheers.
I cycle the engine over after adjustment and have had to readjust some. Good video!
Really outstanding video. You are a natural !!. Unlike my Honda Accord, doing a valve adjustment on my Homda Fit, was far more involved. Thanks for walking us through each operation, step by step !!.
If you ever got around to the big brake conversion, I'd love to see that too.
Thank you for this video! I’m about to do the valve adjustment on my Crz. Our engines are the same other than the transmission and electric motor.
Perfect way to inform. Will tell peoples about your vids
Thanks for this, man. It's helping me get ready for the job.
Thanks for the very detailed video. I have a different technique for valve tightening Though. I make all the adjustments with the filler gauge still wedged in the valve, then tighten the nut. My car sounds like a well oiled sewing machine now. Very quiet in fact.
This is a really good DIY video! It was clear and concise! Perfect!
One of the BEST DIY videos I have ever seen! Thank you!
This is fantastic, Patrick!
Manuel Carrillo III thank you sir!
Mine is ticking loud like your before video. Hoping this fixed my misfire issue. I’ve replaced coils and plugs
Very smooth video!
Video ben fatto e lavoro scrupoloso, complimenti.
Since so much is being removed, what other parts should be replaced? (I was mostly thinking about hoses or other rubber items)
Excellent Video..
Easy peesy..make sure to get "bent feeler gauges" napa has em.
I'm not sure where to find service manual for 2015 Fit. I'd love to have one.
Great video!
Yo what did you just say about the break upgrade being cheap I needa see that video
Is it recommended to change the timing chain after a valve lash adjustment?
Great work!
My 2012 Honda Fit Sport has 294,000 miles on it and I'm ashamed to say I've never had the valves adjusted or checked. Recently it's developed a clattering noise that lasts until the engine warms up. Even when the engine is cold it's not really noticeable at idle, but is very noticeable under light throttle. Could this be due to the valves needing adjustment?
It could be a valve adjustment, but also could be that initially the oil isnt reaching all the places it should while the engine is cold but when it warms up it reaches up to the top of the crank case and lubes everything up. I would do the adjustment, and when the valve cover is off look for any sludge or buildup that might be affecting oil while cold. Also before you do your next oil change, run some seafoam high mileage motor treatment through the crankcase for 50-100 miles, this can dissolve some of the sludge and buildup, but make sure you change your oil and dont leave it this way for more than 100 miles or so. I also like to use some motorkote and lucas high mileage oil stabilizer on engines with this many miles, really helps to reduce friction and wear, and if your're hearing noises while your engine is cold youre definitely hearing that wear. add some of that to the crankcase after your next oil change..
I should also say that it could be piston wear as well, the piston can clatter inside of its bore when the engine first starts up, and then as it heats up the piston expands to deacrease the clearance between the engine and the bore. using a bore scope you can look inside each cylinder for damage to the cylinder walls, unfortunately this is one of those things that happens to really high mileage engines, but ive seen engines go for a long time with this problem as well, eventually if the engine is rebuilt it needs to be bored....i would take it really easy on the engine until its warmed up, until you find out what the problem is exactly...
@@MattB90 Thanks for the replies! I’ll try those.
Grease those wheel nuts (do breaks while your down there ) lol. Why dont they ever say how to keep the parts where they can be found and not lost? I would put them in plastic zip lock bags and tape them to the part and number them from first to last items that are taken off as they are in order . And clean the throttle body and replace plugs check everything you can while all that crap is out of your way. Hoses and belts too! Dont forget that valve cover . plug s & throttle body cleaner and your hand cleaner for you! Lol. So does sny one know how much it costs to get it done st a shop?
I had a bunch of maintenance done at 100K for about $1200. That included valve adjustment, spark plugs, coolant change, and a bunch of other routine stuff that would be done more often. I'd bet the valve adjustment was a big chunk of that just based on how much needs to be removed to get there.
Great vid. Big help for me
i have the exact same engine in my honda jazz (aka fit) do you happen to know where the crankshaft sensor is please? i need to get mine replaced but im struggling to locate where it goes lol and online forums arnt helping !
After doing valve adjustment is it ok to drive the car for the day or wait a day for rtv to dry?
If you’re a beginner, how do you remember putting all that back together if you’re not recording it?
Thank you!
just put some copper based grease between the brake disc and the rim
Very good job..
All Hondas have a valve tick, it’s normal.
Dang that's alot of removal 🥺 but doable
How do you know that mini cooper's rotors will fit into your hubs?
Because they’re both 56.1mm center bore with a 4x100 lug pattern. There’s a set on my car now squeezed by ITR calipers. Stops on a dime.
how often or mileage should you make the adjustment
Patrick you have a like from me and subscribed but the intake valve is 0.15 mm and the exhaust 0.26 mm, you have to adjust again the valve mate..good video
Thank you for the like and subscribe. Intake acceptable range is 0.15 - 0.19 and exhaust acceptable range is 0.26 - 0.30. Setting them at 0.18 and 0.28 respectively means they are within acceptable range and do not need additional adjustments.
@@patrickmorgan4268 0.15mm for intake and 0.26 mm exhaust when the engine it's cold and 0.19 mm and 0.30 mm when the engine is hot mate,remember this think :) have a nice day!
@@agamitzadandanache2379 You're spot on re: hot/cold, although personally I'd be a /little/ conservative if you don't have total confidence in the precision of your feeler gauges and allowing for a little creep when torquing the jam nuts.
@@agamitzadandanache2379 That's actually wrong. First, you're not supposed to do this job with a hot engine. You're supposed to do this cold ONLY. 90 deg F or below. Second, when the engine is HOT you need LESS clearance because metals expand when hot. That's the entire point of having valve clearances.
@@agamitzadandanache2379 First of all, you can't do this with a hot engine, just because the time it takes to remove the cylinder head cover is enough for the engine to cool itself.
Second, the service manual clearly states “Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is below 38 ° C (100 ° F).
Temperatures are not differentiated between intake and exhaust.
This is to be clear to everyone.
Mai dandanache, mai, tare ai dat-o tare cu nuca-n perete incercand sa pari destept.
good video but still has a tick in the after video. not a bad tick but its still there.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Best way to shift a wheel that is stuck like that is a swift donkey kick to the top of the wheel.
The way you filmed and explained is top of the class teaching material. However, the result compared to the original noise is insignificant to me. Both are noisy.
cute engine
Honda fit, remove the windscreen wipers before changing the engine oil 😜
This engine is way too clean inside. You should change it's oil a lot less often, or it's never gonna wear out.
Judging by the outside, this vehicle is in the rust belt. Body will rust out way before any engine issues materialize.
The emblem in the grille is crooked. Is this a Hyundai ?
Oh god... You stuff the intake manifold but go ahead and scrape old gasket sealant right beside the exposed timing chain....!!!
thank you Mr.Patrick