I tried that on my "21 Ultra and the horns are too big to fit in that location. Either the wishbone is wider on your Ultra or the horns are smaller than the ones I got because they will NOT fit on my FLHTK.
The positive wire is ran in sequence, "jumped" between one side of each of the three horns (two Motohorns and single stock horn), terminating on terminal 87 of the four-pin relay. The original positive/hot wire going to the stock horn, from the horn button, is removed from the horn, and extended/routed to terminal 86 on the 4-pin relay. Because the two terminals on each of the horns are not polarized, placement of the positive and negative wires onto the horns can be placed on either of the two horn terminals, whichever is easier for the installer.
I forgot to mention: If grounding to a bolt or screw on the frame, it's better to use a RING TERMINAL than a fork-style terminal like I did in the video. This gives a bit better surety that you'll get a good ground. I did replace those fork-style terminals with ring terminals the day after I made the video. The only reason I initially used the fork terminals is because I didn't have the correct size of ring terminals at the moment, and I didn't want to make a special trip to the store, just to purchase some at that time! (Lazy)! So, I just used what I had immediately available, and hoped they would be temporarily sufficient to make the horns work, until I could go buy the proper size ring terminals. Fortunately, they did work!
So despite what the motohorn ad says about these horns being plug and play, they in fact require a relay to operate properly, yes? You can't just simply unplug the stock horn wires and connect them directly to these motohorns, correct?
Incorrect. They are, in fact, plug and play. They will work using the stock horn wires, and DO NOT REQUIRE a relay. The added relay and in-line fuse that I used, and that Motohorn RECOMMENDS just gives an added layer of protection and surety of a good, consistently working system! This is true when adding MOST ANY horn to a 12-volt system.
@@vermin345 From my past experience upgrading horns, especially on a motorcycle, even if you just went from a single OEM trumpet horn to a single trumpet horn like a Fiamm or Stebel (rated at 115-120 dB), they never worked with the stock horn wires, always had to add a relay. I bought these dual track horns because I believed the video that says they're plug and play. I'll try them that way first, but if they in fact work that way, it'll be a first for me.
@@bronzestarvue A friend of mine and I installed the Motohorn Train Horn (trumpet air horn with compressor) on his bike this past weekend, using the stock horn wiring, with no relay. After giving a few test blows on the horn, the stock fuse blew. However, the single 10A fuse that blew out, was the same fuse that also ran the tail/brake light and blinkers. Neither of us had ever seen this many items on a single fuse circuit. Much less, only a 10A fuse! Motohorn recommends a 15-20A in-line fuse for the Dual Track, and a 20-40A in-line fuse for the Train Horn. Of course, the higher amperage rating for the Train Horn because of the additional draw of the compressor. We replaced the blown 10A fuse with a new 25A fuse, and haven't had any further problems.
In my order the instructions specify "If your horns do not achieve the volume that the horns are capable of then you use a horn relay to supply more current to make them louder." The suggestion follows the implied and partially noted fact that the horn circuit is not meant to draw much amperage, and so the stock wiring may not achieve optimum results, being that the motohorns draw more current than a stock horn. The circuit required to power a compressor in the trumpet motohorn uses a larger wire with a circuit breaker with the relay.
I tried that on my "21 Ultra and the horns are too big to fit in that location. Either the wishbone is wider on your Ultra or the horns are smaller than the ones I got because they will NOT fit on my FLHTK.
That’s odd!
I see you grounded the negative to it’s own bolt. What are the positive wires connected to?
The positive wire is ran in sequence, "jumped" between one side of each of the three horns (two Motohorns and single stock horn), terminating on terminal 87 of the four-pin relay.
The original positive/hot wire going to the stock horn, from the horn button, is removed from the horn, and extended/routed to terminal 86 on the 4-pin relay.
Because the two terminals on each of the horns are not polarized, placement of the positive and negative wires onto the horns can be placed on either of the two horn terminals, whichever is easier for the installer.
I forgot to mention: If grounding to a bolt or screw on the frame, it's better to use a RING TERMINAL than a fork-style terminal like I did in the video. This gives a bit better surety that you'll get a good ground.
I did replace those fork-style terminals with ring terminals the day after I made the video.
The only reason I initially used the fork terminals is because I didn't have the correct size of ring terminals at the moment, and I didn't want to make a special trip to the store, just to purchase some at that time! (Lazy)!
So, I just used what I had immediately available, and hoped they would be temporarily sufficient to make the horns work, until I could go buy the proper size ring terminals.
Fortunately, they did work!
So despite what the motohorn ad says about these horns being plug and play, they in fact require a relay to operate properly, yes? You can't just simply unplug the stock horn wires and connect them directly to these motohorns, correct?
Incorrect. They are, in fact, plug and play. They will work using the stock horn wires, and DO NOT REQUIRE a relay.
The added relay and in-line fuse that I used, and that Motohorn RECOMMENDS just gives an added layer of protection and surety of a good, consistently working system! This is true when adding MOST ANY horn to a 12-volt system.
@@vermin345 From my past experience upgrading horns, especially on a motorcycle, even if you just went from a single OEM trumpet horn to a single trumpet horn like a Fiamm or Stebel (rated at 115-120 dB), they never worked with the stock horn wires, always had to add a relay. I bought these dual track horns because I believed the video that says they're plug and play. I'll try them that way first, but if they in fact work that way, it'll be a first for me.
@@bronzestarvue A friend of mine and I installed the Motohorn Train Horn (trumpet air horn with compressor) on his bike this past weekend, using the stock horn wiring, with no relay.
After giving a few test blows on the horn, the stock fuse blew. However, the single 10A fuse that blew out, was the same fuse that also ran the tail/brake light and blinkers. Neither of us had ever seen this many items on a single fuse circuit. Much less, only a 10A fuse!
Motohorn recommends a 15-20A in-line fuse for the Dual Track, and a 20-40A in-line fuse for the Train Horn. Of course, the higher amperage rating for the Train Horn because of the additional draw of the compressor.
We replaced the blown 10A fuse with a new 25A fuse, and haven't had any further problems.
In my order the instructions specify "If your horns do not achieve the volume that the horns are capable of then you use a horn relay to supply more current to make them louder." The suggestion follows the implied and partially noted fact that the horn circuit is not meant to draw much amperage, and so the stock wiring may not achieve optimum results, being that the motohorns draw more current than a stock horn. The circuit required to power a compressor in the trumpet motohorn uses a larger wire with a circuit breaker with the relay.