M1 Garand Oprod Technical Inspection
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- M1 Garand operating rod technical inspection. We examine the piston head, shaft, hooks, bolt cam, and tab. Discussed is cleaning and lubrication, fit, and dimension of piston .525 inch.
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Your comment about "oil will be fine', in regards to the radius area that rides along the barrel during operation, is incorrect. By not using grease to put a light layer on the underside of the barrel, and operating rod radius, which runs under it, you risk a short stroke malfunction during firing. Failure to properly lubricate those areas with grease, is the primary reason for that. Oil will migrate out, and evaporate as the barrel heats. A good synthetic, such as Mobil 1, has an operating temp range of -40 to 300 degrees, which is perfect for the M1. The Army did testing early on, and wanted to go with oil as the only lubricant. The testing proved that the oil was ineffective, washed out under wet conditions, and evaporated under heat. Grease does not have those problems. Using Mobil 1, with it's red color makes it easy to judge a light coating. There are areas on the M1, that were specified by the Army to be greased on the M1, and the radius that runs along the underside of the barrel, is one of them.
The comment "oil will be fine" is not necessarily incorrect. Oil is fine, under some conditions. Grease is better under some conditions. The M1 will run well bone dry, under MOST conditions, if necessary. The M1 earned its reputation for reliability under just about any conditions because it was not dependent on meticulous cleaning and lubrication. There wasn't anything like Mobil 1 synthetic grease on hand in WWII or Korea or anyplace else when the M1 was in U.S. service, we're just fortunate to have it today. That said, under IDEAL conditions of course it's best to take advantage of modern lubricants, but mainly because they greatly extend the service life of moving parts as much or more than because the rifle can't function without grease. It can and will.
I love your chapter selection.
Thank you, I was hoping it made it easier for folks to have a one stop shopping instead of looking all over. Take care.
Old US Marine Corp. Mi info, "If it slides grease it. If it rotates, oil it.
Just purchased a garand. Will be doing this inspection. Thank you
Nice video! .526 is the max standard size, meaning it has no measurable wear. Anything larger tells you the piston was replaced.
I once did an inspection of the tube where the recoil spring rides , spring and tube were packed with lubriplate grease . A Cmp purchase . Hhmmmm !
Thank you very much. I had heard the term "in the white" but did not know what that meant.. until now.
Very informative! Thanks for posting.
Thank you!
Thank you, sir. I learned a lot from your instruction.
Much appreciated.
You are very welcome
I have enjoyed all of your M1 Garand videos--hoping one of these days I will "have" to watch the M1 Carbine series as well!! Thanks--very informative!
Thanks!!!
Any new videos scheduled? I would really like to see a lubrication video on the Garand from your perspective
I can do that. Give me a few weeks.
Thank you sir for sharing this knowledge, well done indeed.
great video thank you for posting
Thanks Nathan Keener!
I was always curious about what the factory jig looked like where they set the bends in the rod.
I actually found an uncut WRA rod a few years ago.
If you ever need to let that rod go let me know :)
Took my op rod out of new rifle I bought and the piston was bent and crooked on end of oprod. Ordered a replacement
Wow! Sounds really weird. If it was that crooked how did it fit in the last gas cylinder?
Is it Okay to shoot using a WW2 Un-modified OP Rod or best to stay clear of them and use a modified WW2 type instead?
If you have an unmodified and want to shoot I suggest a modified or later type. It is not necessary but recommended. Unmodified are more valuable than a modified or late type FYI. The only reason the military changed it was for grenade launching tended to break them.
I myself have the tanker garand. The problem I seem to be having is the bolt jams open and seems to hang up on the tab as you called it. What is the cure for that if you dont mind. This is driving me nuts. I love the weapon but dont shoot it much because of this and would love to get it back in action.
Sounds like too much pressure, do you use an adjustable gas plug/screw?
Is there a specific procedure for cleaning up the chamber to help extraction if it turns out yours is dark?
They make chamber brushes that should be used, clean the best you can.
Is the box/tab also known as the square retaining block?
Never hear that terminology, sorry.
Why dont u oil the inside?
Inside of what, the operating tube where the operating spring goes? Because oil/grease attract dirt and then it require ALOT more cleaning. If the tilt rod test works, and fires without issue, don't oil it.