Your one statement about using the notch on the trigger for leverage was the ticket on that hammer spring. When you use that, it goes _so_ much easier. Thanks for sharing.
I commented on another M1 video great idea I changed out all the springs and pins. Even if it didn't need changing. Save the old parts . You should take the internal magazine apart remove the bolt and oprod.. So you can clean the barrel from the throat/chamber side rather than the muzzle. It's easier on the barrel and your not pushing the gunk from the barrel into the chamber. Just a thought it also gets you familiar with the rifle you should take down the gas cylinder to check it you shouldn't do that to often especially since the barrel is new.
Thanks for watching our videos and for the information. We have saved all of the old parts, and your right about the cleaning procedure. I have tottally taken down the rifle and the gas cylinder looks good, But i guess there is a gauge or something to check it?
You should not need to change that op. rod spring. Most cycling problems are caused by gas problems. Check to make sure your gas tube slides down enough on the Garand to expose the gas port hole. Many people overlook this problem. That hole on the underside of barrel needs to be completely exposed for sufficient gas flow pressure to cycle action.
Yes. It works really smooth now. I also cleaned out the spring tube too, so that helped out. No jams or anything. Also, it is really nice to have that stainless steel spring in there. We will make another video with it soon! Thanks for watching!
Op rod spring uses grease, not oil.
That hammer spring whipped my ass. I'm happy to see you struggled too.
Your one statement about using the notch on the trigger for leverage was the ticket on that hammer spring. When you use that, it goes _so_ much easier. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, you guys are totally awesome!
I commented on another M1 video great idea I changed out all the springs and pins. Even if it didn't need changing. Save the old parts . You should take the internal magazine apart remove the bolt and oprod.. So you can clean the barrel from the throat/chamber side rather than the muzzle. It's easier on the barrel and your not pushing the gunk from the barrel into the chamber. Just a thought it also gets you familiar with the rifle you should take down the gas cylinder to check it you shouldn't do that to often especially since the barrel is new.
Thanks for watching our videos and for the information. We have saved all of the old parts, and your right about the cleaning procedure. I have tottally taken down the rifle and the gas cylinder looks good, But i guess there is a gauge or something to check it?
@@undeadbrosm41a39 If it's a new barrel I'm sure they gauge it right you have years before you start buying gauges. You guys will do well.
Will the spring stop making the scraping sound in the gun after you shot it a couple hundred times
It might, I'm not sure. It might help to have more oil on it too
@@undeadbrosm41a39 and how do you clean the inside of the oprod tube
@@blonded3598 we used a small bore brush
You should not need to change that op. rod spring. Most cycling problems are caused by gas problems. Check to make sure your gas tube slides down enough on the Garand to expose the gas port hole. Many people overlook this problem. That hole on the underside of barrel needs to be completely exposed for sufficient gas flow pressure to cycle action.
How did it do did it cycle good
Yes. It works really smooth now. I also cleaned out the spring tube too, so that helped out. No jams or anything. Also, it is really nice to have that stainless steel spring in there. We will make another video with it soon! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the FYI.
Hope it helped some
@@undeadbrosm41a39 Great help! I didn't realize that the op-rod spring was sooooo easy to remove.
@@paulwilliams8522 This was the first time for us, so we figured we would make a video of it. Glad it helped you out!