The Needle Bar and Take-Up System of a Singer Model 99K Sewing Machine
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2018
- A tutorial showing how to remove and replace the needle bar and take-up lever system of a Singer Model 99K Sewing Machine.
There are three set screws to remove. You may want to clean the parts or replace broken parts. I show you how to do it so you can do it yourself.
MUSIC: "Honey and Milk" by The 126ers 2018
Also Singer model 66 and 99 - Навчання та стиль
Hello Andy,
You have some great videos on the Singer 99K. I am working on a Singer Red Eye 66-1 and I find your videos a great source of information for my applications to the 66-1. FYI, as I have been working on my machine I would like to note a few minor differences that may help someone working on a 66 model that I have learned along the way.
Nothing major, starting from the bottom to the top: (1) The needle bar bushing sleeve is longer and
sticks out from the bottom and top of the body and the set screw is in the
front. (2) The tread take up crank is the only location with a cap screw that is reverse threaded.
(3) The tread take up lever is connected directly at the top joint where the take up connecting link and the
top take up lever link meet. (4) At the top of the assembly, the cap screw is right hand screw in the machine body. No
set screw with a hole in the side of the machine.
Otherwise everything is the about the same, with up to 50 years more of dry oil and crud to clean which is a little more time consuming. Ralph
Thank you for sharing this information. I know many people realize the 99 is a 3/4 version of the 66 and come here for tips. I pinned your comment to the top hoping they will see it.
Hey Andy, I was given two 99’s a couple of weeks ago. The lady just had them sitting in storage and when I went to pick up another machine, she asked me if I wanted the 99’s and of course I couldn’t say no. One of them I’m working on is a, Godzilla finish and just the cutest little thing ever but I tell you, that needle bar will not come loose at all. I have tried every thing possible and from what I am reading in some of the groups I’m in they say to just keep applying oil, heat etc and that it could take weeks before it loosens up but it’s seriously like somebody welded that thing in there. It was easy unscrewing the set screw, that was not a problem. I have used blaster, WD-40, I’ve used kerosene, I’ve used a heat gun, I’ve used the blow dryer, I’ve used oil, a wrench with a towel to grab it without harming the bar itself self, but geez, it’s just not budging, not a smidge. Any suggestions on what possibly could be the issue there? Maybe just patience? Thanks
Yep, if there is no sign of rust, then be patient. Congrats on your good fortune!
I've never even seen a Godzilla machine in person, and have one! 👀😲
@@andytubesewing1953 I believe I’m partial to the Godzilla finish. I have two singers with that finish….I think. I seriously couldn’t even tell you how many singers are in my home today😂. Thanks Andy….I’m going to just continue waiting to see if I can get it loose.
@@rhondamercado7527One thing I did a few times that seemed to help was I would soak a cotton makeup remover pad with penetrating oil and wrap it tightly around the base of the clamp and up onto the needle bar and then put a few more drops on it. I just let it sit overnight and that did help. By the way, I once asked my wife if I had too many machines and she told me as long as they don't stack up higher than the back of the sofa I was okay hahaha
@@andytubesewing1953 😂
Thank-you for these videos. I have learned so much from you(and my machines appreciate it). Ann
You are welcome, Ann. That's my deal; trying to share knowledge and information to those who are interested. Hope tp "see: you again soon,
Andy Tube knows this already, I'm sure. But for any of you who don't, I just found out from the folk at www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/ that usually if a slot in the top of the screw doesn't go all the way across the head of the screw it is a reverse-threaded screw. I had no idea but thought that's a really handy hint and easy to remember.
I did NOT know that, Megan! Thank you for sharing it on my channel. You're the best!!
Just picked up a filthy 66 and this video saved several of my screws from damage and saved me several cigarettes 😂 ... Seriously though, awesome video, so informative, thank you oh so very much!
I'm glad you found the video and thanks for saving that machine. My other 18 videos for model 99K, the 3/4 size model 66, are here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html
Another goodun Andy, Thank you sir.
Very cool little screw holder tool there, gonna have to keep my eyes out for one.
Thanks for watching. I am very grateful that my friend Harlan gifted me with those spring drivers. I'd actually never heard of them or used them before, but I'm making up for it now, haha. I think the ones he gave me are fairly old, but they work great and being steel & hard brass I think they will last the rest of my lifetime.
Merci pour cette vidéo Andy quel passionné !!!👏👏👏
Merci beaucoup Radia. C'est bien d'avoir une passion, oui? Prends soin.
You know that little rocker arm with the spring on it that gets pushed forward when you raise the presser foot to press on the tension release pin? I think they call it the 'tension disc releasing lever'...
It does have a pin going through it for it to pivot on and there's a hole on the harp-side of the head that is line with the pivot point that looks like an oiling hole. That is one access point to the pin. When you look at the whole set up you think to yourself "where does it come out?" (I did - it drove me crazy for ages) - and guess what? That screw-thread on the other side of the head that is for the thumbscrew that holds on the face plate is also the hole the pin is in for the tension disc releasing lever. It's a double-duty access hole/screw thread.
I don't know whether the pin itself is tapered, though, so I don't know which way to push to remove it. It would make sense to me though, if it is tapered, that it would come out on the face-plate side because when you're putting hundreds of machines together in a factory setting you want some consistency with things like that to reduce human error. Also, in the factory they're putting the pins in all day long and they'd want the easiest access for installation - which is from the nose side. Does anyone else know for sure before I ever give it a try? Ta... Megan :-)
EDITED TO ADD Breaking News!! Well, curiosity got the better of me and so I pushed in the direction I'd taken with my guess above using the tension release pin. A shorter, stubby pin just slid right out of the face plate side like butter! I couldn't believe it - but I had to because there it was. Now my tension release pin was holding the tension disc releasing lever (TDRL) in place just like its own pin did so I pushed that out using an old needle and the TDRL easily lifted out from inside the head of the machine. It was such a surprise - yesterday when I pushed in that same hole with a needle nothing seemed to budge. The TDRL pin is 2.44mm thick = 0.096" and 18.92mm = 0.745" long. It was not tapered but after testing it likes to be inserted from the face-plate side and pushed out so it exits the same way it entered. When I tried to insert it from the harp-side of the head it didn't even want to pop its head to take a look around. :-)
Does anyone know if the tension disc releasing lever that Andy left in place towards the end of this video (mine is part number 33659) has an intentional angle on part of the arm that has the little spring on it? Mine does have an angle and does line up with the tension release pin (even though it won't rock far enough forward with the presser foot fully raised and then "lifted a bit extra" to give a positive push on the tension release pin).
I'm trying to figure out why it's not pushing the tension release pin in properly when the foot is lifted. When I take out the presser bar and it's bracket it easily tilts forward enough but with them in it is as if the bracket for holding the presser bar is in the way and would have to be displaced a little for the presser bar/foot lifter lever to tilt the tension disc releasing disc levert far enough forward (which it's not going to do once the presser bar is through it!).
I cleaned it all out thoroughly and polished and oiled all the parts so that individually they all have a full range of free-and-easy motion. My tension release pin is protruding out the back the normal amount and the whole tension unit is pushed fully in before the set-screw for it is tightened. It's just when the presser bar and its bracket are installed that it wants to "stop short".
Any insights from anyone at all would be hugely appreciated. Thank you!
On the "old dunger, didn't sew anyway" 201K treadle I'm semi-taking apart I'm having a huge amount of trouble pulling out the take-up lever system. This has proved more trouble than anything else so far, by far. I could get out the "crank" part (with Simanco facing out and "o" up) reasonably easily. It happily comes out on its own on a 201. But the top one, that you also must remove to get the take-up lever out, hasn't been budging despite sessions of penetrating oil, kerosene (paraffin), SMO and heat along with trying to wiggle it all the time.
There is a hole on the other side of the head that this hinge stud goes through too. In that hole, where you can see metal at the end of the hole but no slot it in it to get a screwdriver in and turn, you can get a rod or bolt that fits and tap out the hinge stud rather than pull it out. Or at least, you can try to! My hubby - who is big and strong and a sure-hit with hammers and such - has managed to budge it just few millimetres so far. I've re-penetrating-oiled it everywhere (including where I took out the set screw at the back of the head) to, I hope, get to a slightly different spot on the hinge stud. And I'm heating it again.
I'm hoping that if it could move a little then eventually it will move some more. I'll let you all know if I succeed.
I mention all this just in case any of you strike a really, really stubborn one and figure you've got nothing to lose by trying it. I am wrapping a bit of cloth around the body while hubby bangs/taps at the bolt and we're doing our best not to strike the machine anywhere other than the back end of that hinge stud thingy so we minimise any chance of chipping the Japanning if there is a mis-strike.
See the set screw I remove starting @ 16:00 in this video? ( the smaller one ) On model 201 there should be a set screw ( X10 ) in the same place that needs removal for the Hinge Stud ( Y10 ) to pull out. The hole directly behind the hinge stud ( R10 ) is to give access to the end of the Hinge Stud if you need to tap it out to get it loose. This is explained, with diagrams also, on pages 63 & 64 of the Adjuster's Manual for Model 201.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy - yes, I had got that one out - but I went and triple-checked anyway before I started the "tapping/banging" from the back as a last resort. Certainly for anyone reading my comments it's very important for them to know about that screw and get it out first before they try it so I'm really glad you mentioned it!
The good news is, after another heating etc session my hubby did another round of banging (bangs if I tried it, moderate taps for him) it finally came out, about 15 minutes ago. But it took about 20 more strikes and is something I'd never attempt by myself, ever. All in all the whole exercise took about 6 hours - not counting the penetrating oil I put everywhere before bed last night.
@@meganmills6545 thank you Megan I knew you would have taken out that set screw first but I wanted other readers to be sure to understand that congratulations on your persistence and getting that hinge stud out of there it sounded like a real booger I've had a handful like that over the years and they are a PIA but man when you get them out it seems very rewarding best of luck to you going forward I hope someday to see pictures of your machine and by the way kudos to your hubby for being so involved in the restoration hat's off to you sir 👍
Well, I used to think taking out the slants' thread takeup lever and needlebar was complicated before watching this, at least there you can see all the set screws!
We are traveling the same highway, Daffycat. This is a nice machine and sews well, but after working on so many slant-needle Singer machines, it seems more complicated then needed.
A slant is so well designed and easy to maintain and work on; they are "nicely done'!
Perfect, now I can replace my thread uptake arm!
On you model 66? I know you CAN do it and I'm glad you will. Thanks for repair your machine and keeping it in service. Don't be a stranger!
ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html
@@andytubesewing1953 technically its a 185k but they are similar internally
Big fan actually! You have helped me through alot of machine rebuilds since January!
@@ashlisisk Oh, that's even better! Thanks for saving them and for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, on a 185k model I’m working on now, I’m parting it out, off the top of your head, do you know if there is a set screw to remove the tension pen releasing lever. I can probably go find the service manual but I thought I’d check to see if you knew about that particular model. Thanks.
It's been about 20 years, but I think it is a knock-out pin, not a screw. See if there is a hole directly behind it. If so, it may knock-out from back to front
@@andytubesewing1953 lol I thought about that after I sent this. Heck I can’t remember yesterday. Thanks Andy, I’ll check it out.
@@rhondamercado7527 Good luck!
Hey Andy, thank you SOOO much for these videos they've been unbelivably helpful.
I notice that you leave the little rocker part (kind of shaped like a U) with a spring on the right, in place during this. The one on my Singer hardly moves, but I can't seem to take it out to clean, should I be able to remove it?
I think you're describing the Tension Releasing Lever.
When you lift the Presser Bar lifting Lever it raises the left side of the "U" making the right side (with the little spring) push on the end of the Tension Releasing Lever inside the Thread Tension Assembly and releasing tension on the tension discs.
The lever does not "rock" over very far to do this. So is it really hard to move, or it just does not move far? (that's normal).
The Releasing Lever is held in place at the bottom of the "U" by a HInge Pin that allows the rocking motion. It is not a screw, but a tapered pin. You'd need to knock out that pin to remove the lever. I never bother unless the Releasing Lever is Broken and needs replaced (very rare). You can put a little oil on the pin area and try to scrub it with a brush or blow air on it if you think there is crud blocking the movement. I have used alcohol and even Krud Kutter on really dirty ones but covered the sewing bed with plastic so I did not damage that black finish.
Hi Andy. Yes, that's it. It's just really hard to move so I'll try some oil and whatever the UK equivalent of Krud Kutter is!
@@JD-qp6ug KrudKutter is a degreaser is all. Folks tend to over oil and oil settles in the bottom of the nose. Over time it gets hard like varnish so a degreaser or alcohol, or even heat from a hairdryer can soften it and allow new oil to penetrate and soften more.
I have an old Singer 201 I'm taking apart and cleaning as far as possible and I think a lot of what applies to the 99 will transfer across very well, so thank you for your videos. With respect to cleaning, what liquid do you use? I have an ultrasonic cleaner but have no clue what liquid to use in it other than water and perhaps a little dishwash detergent. While it does clean it a little, it doesn't do very much - so I'm guessing people use something else? Thank you... Megan
Hello, Megan. If you are talking about cleaning the parts, I use Krud Kutter in my ultrasonic cleaner. I usually use the original formula for cleaning all parts of a sewing machine. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter I use about 1 ounce in the ultrasonic. Friends of mine also use Krud Kutter Parts Washer cleaner/degreaser www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/automotive-cleaners-and-removers/parts-washer-cleaner-degreaser I buy it at Home Depot or the Hardware store. One Walmart near me also carries it sometimes.
If you are talking about cleaning the painted body here is a video (long) I did about cleaning my 99K ua-cam.com/video/w6fn-TSOCYo/v-deo.html
Your Singer Model 201 has a number of similar parts to the model 99k. Some parts, like the hook and bobbin case, may be different.
I hope that gives you a place to start and good luck. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much - like many others I really appreciate the trouble you take to help us! (I'd really like to see more videos on youtube like yours, except for the 201 model (at least the mechanical parts, if not the electric) but there's surprisingly little out there like your videos considering what a popular model it was. If you ever decide to dabble in 201s I think you'd you'd make loads of people over-the-moon with delight. I've watched lots of vids now on Singers and yours are just outstanding! I've learned a ton.)
@@meganmills6545 Thanks for your kind words, Megan. I'll give serious consideration to a 201 model. I've been getting more small donations thru PayPal and they are starting to add up. I'll keep an eye out for a 201. Happy New Year 2020
I have a Singer 99 I recently acquired .My question is how do you know what the next numbers or letters after 99 (or whatever model) are and how you tell? Thank you Andy! Your videos are my favorite go to’s !💕
@@willablake9284 Hi Willa, I know you were really asking Andy but your question came through to me. One of the best sites I've found, if you haven't already, for lots of info like this is Ismacs. Another useful one is Singer Sewing Info - they have a page about the 99 model: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/99k/ And I also like the Needle Bar web site when I'm looking for info but I've not been able to find much on there for the Singer 66 or 99. Regards... Megan
Hey Andy that set screw that fell off into the machine, I’m having trouble unscrewing it. I’ve applied wd40, Alcohol, oil, hair dryer but it won’t give. Any suggestions? Thanks. Update: it loosened up. My dilemma now is loosening the presser bar screw. It’s funny how I was able to disassemble all of the parts on the take up level stuff but it looks like the presser bar needs to be out of the way in order to put it back? I’ve done enough for the day I’m gonna take a break and see if I can’t get that screw loose, if it’s absolutely necessary in order to put the other parts back on.
Hmm... It's been about 5 years since I did the 99, but cant you just remove the top thumb nut adjuster and pull up/out the extension rod & spring? I don't think you have to remove the presser bar itself.
@@andytubesewing1953 I think it’s just the improper way I put it back. I’ll pull out my other 99k and compare it. Thank Andy
@@rhondamercado7527 👍
What is the spring jaw tool actually called that you used on the set screw I got to find some
It's called a few different names. Here is an example at Amazon of a modern set: www.amazon.com/Screw-Holding-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-SK234/dp/B0002RIA3K
"Screw-Holding-Screwdriver", split-shank screwdriver", "Screw starter screwdriver" and so forth.
Thanks so much !@@andytubesewing1953
welcome.
My needle is not moving with the wheel and struck ? What could the reason plz
Anny moving part that is stuck will stop all the other moving parts. Are you sure the needle bar is stuck, or is it just the part you see the most? There are bushings on the machine that must have oil and if they are dry the machine stops working. There can be a jam in the hook/bobbin case. At the very least the machine should be freshly oiled. You can download a couple of instruction manuals for model 99 from Singer on this page: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 They are FREE and they will have instructions for oiling all the proper oil points. You can also look at some of my 20 videos for model 99K that show working on all the parts. Here is the Playlist of all the videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy!
@@deepjill4981 👍