How to Fix an Oil Leak (From the Stator Cover) on a Kawasaki Vulcan 750
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Welcome to the Checkered Floor Garage. In this video I show my process for fixing an oil leak from the stator case gasket. I do this without removing or tilting the engine. I also showcase how to move the external oil line out of the way in order to perform this job. If you think you have the same leak as me, be sure to also check your shift shaft seal because this is another common leak area on these and really any older motorcycle, I think. I have a video on my channel showing how to diagnose and fix an oil leak from the shift shaft seal.
• How to Fix an Oil Leak...
After the fix and before publishing this video, I rode my Vulcan for 300 miles to make sure the leak didn't return; during one testing day I rode 80 miles. There are zero drips of oil on my garage floor, so this fix works and I'll update this post in the future if that ever changes.
Patch Notes:
16-May-2023 Update: It's been about 600 miles since the fix and I noticed a small amount of oil around one of my bottom stator bolt holes. So again, it's important to apply sufficient gasket maker around those bolt holes. I probably could have applied more. It's not dripping yet, so I'll just wait until my next oil change to address this. Just wanted to share this update so you can learn from my mistake.
07-Nov-2023 Update: It's been a full 2023 riding season's worth of use and ~3,000 miles since I made this fix and it's still good! The bottom of the stator cover/crank is moist with oil but no drips have fallen onto the floor! This is a great temporary fix. When I remove the engine to replace the engine balance dampeners in the future, I'll address this leak the proper way and be able to remove the full cover and get an OEM gasket.
01-Feb-2024: At 2:23 I accidentally say the wrong order. The correct order is: SCREEN first, then WASHER, SPRING, and finally the DRAIN PLUG.
Here is the link to the electronic Clymer Service Manual:
www.vn750.com/...
Here is the playlist of videos I have made detailing other maintenance & service items on this bike.
• Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Ma...
Other helpful links for Vulcan 750 owners:
- VN750 Forum
www.vn750.com
- Vulcan Slang for Newcomers
www.vn750.com/...
- Helpful Vulcan 750 Links and Info:
www.vn750.com/...
- Useful Electrical Info
www.vn750.com/...
- Engine Rebuild Videos
www.vn750.com/...
- Helpful Videos from Other UA-camrs
• Helpful VN750 Videos f...
Correction (01-Feb-2024): At 2:23 I accidentally say the wrong order. The correct order is: SCREEN first, then WASHER, SPRING, and finally the DRAIN PLUG.
I recently had to change the clutch cover gasket on my Vulcan, it was relatively easy to change. congratulations for the video, it helps me a lot to do the repairs on it!
Thank you. I'm glad I was able to fix it without removing or tilting the engine out of the frame.
Love your videos, been a big help so far on my 750. Wanted to point out an important correction at 2:23 for the order stated in the service manual of "After the oil has been completely drained out, insert the screen, washer, spring, and drain plug with the O-ring in that order.". I think you actually got this order correct in your oil change video but it was wrong here.
Thanks for catching this! I'll update the description and maybe pin a comment to help spread the word. I wouldn't want anyone else struggling with this incorrect order. I said the wrong order, but then my brain turned back on and I installed everything in the correct order.
Thank you for that helps alot kawasaki vulcan rider thank you bro🎉
Happy to help. That's one of my primary goals for my UA-cam channel. Cheers and safe riding!
That tape will retain moisture and cause your pipes to rust....heads up....I love my 750!! lol
Do you mean the exhaust wrap can retain moisture and cause the pipes to rust? I'll keep an eye out for this, especially since I want to re-wrap the pipes and also fix a loose tail pipe piece. Thank you.
yes....Like leaving primer on a car surface too long....It'll eventually rust underneath...@@CFG750
What is the tork setting for the bolts ? I enjoy your videos and how they are presented. Good job sir 👏
Thank you. And to answer your question, for the stator case bolts I just went by feel since I couldn't find anything in my service manual. I tightened them down nice and tight. No need to go crazy and overtighten these bolts since they are small.
New owner here, 2002 Vulcan. After trailering, small drip from lower crankcase 5, 8mm bolts. Do you know the torque spec for those bolts? And torque spec on stator cover?
Welcome to the machine! We connected on this over at VN750.com so let's continue the thread over there.
www.vn750.com/threads/2002-vn750.108415/#post-1317279
Hey, I recently just got my Vulcan 750 running. I was wondering if you know anything about how to balance or sync the carbs? The bike will run on one cylinder till it clears and then runs just fine once warmed up. I want to think it might be getting too much fuel in the rear cylinder. Your videos have helped me a lot as well!
I'm glad these videos are helping you out. That is one of my goals of this channel. I've never needed to sync my carbs on my Vulcan...nor any other motorcycle for that matter. But I saw a recent post on VN750.com about carb syncing. Apparently it is fairly easy. Check out the post here:
www.vn750.com/threads/need-help-synchronizing-carburetors.107952/#post-1309732
If you have other questions, create a profile at VN750.com and introduce yourself. Me and other members will be better able to help you out over there.
The proper way is to remove the engine like the manual says. One. So you can properly clean all the old gasket material off, but MOST importantly, you do NOT want any old gasket material or ANY Dirt entering the engine!!! Not to mention CUTTING THE GASKET!!!!! I know the dude made a good attempt, but there is no way, NO WAY anyone should ever try this if you value your engine. “Gasket maker” is not needed or recommended by Kawasaki if the correct procedure has been performed. How long do you think this gasket maker will last while mixed with the oily surface (that has not been cleaned) yea, it WILL leak soon.
You're correct, this is not the textbook fix nor is this fix for everyone. Personally I really didn't want to pull the engine just to fix this oil leak. To the credit of this "shortcut fix"...it did work and has stopped oil from leaking on my driveway and garage. I was meticulous throughout the process and am happy with how it came out. It's not going to be permanent and I understand that.
This got me back on the road last year when I didn't really have the time or bandwidth to pull the engine. Besides, it's not meant to be a permanent fix and I hope I didn't sell it this way. I'll be pulling the engine later this year 2024 into 2025 to replace my stator. So I'll be fixing this oil leak the "proper way".
Truthfully, I'm not much concerned about dirt ingress into the engine. But I will be sending an oil sample for analysis during my Fall-2024 oil change and I will share that here on YT and over at VN750.com, I wonder if anything could show up in the numbers if this oil truly has gotten dirtier as a result of the way I fixed this oil leak. Stay tuned and I appreciate your comment.
I’m having the same problem however my bike is also not charging. The wiring harness is super crusty and has definitely been messed with. Assuming my stator is bad so my plan is to shift the engine over and remove the cover to replace stator and then just gonna replace the harness as well. Any advice?
If you haven't done so already, spend some time on VN750.com and look up posts about stator replacement/engine tilting. Past owners have replaced the stator this way so you may see some useful information. I have never done a job this massive, so that's all the advice I have. Good luck and I'd love to hear/see progress posted to VN750.com if you'd like.
I was completely down with it until you had to scrape away the gasket and then I was like if I get an oil leak on this bike then I will just have to add oil more often and deal with the drip😂😢😅😮😊
True...this isn't meant to be the ultimate fix. My plan is to replace the entire gasket as one piece, but in order to do that the engine has to be tilted or removed from the frame. So until I get around to doing that, this fix has actually been working perfectly for me. 🤌
@@CFG750 I believe you're out in Pennsylvania but if you ever take it for a road trip and come to Minnesota specifically East Saint Paul you should hit me up and look into your bikes brother as I have your exact bike down to the year and that leads me to my question of what octane gasoline do you use for the guy that sold it to me suggested 91 but I'm kind of cheap and hope to use 88 if that will work
@@ericgreen1079 Sounds like a plan! I use regular 87 octane. Don’t quote me on this, but I heard over at VN750.com that if you use higher octane fuel in an engine that is perfectly fine with regular 87 octane, it could cause more harm.
You see, the whole point of higher octane fuel is that it resists pre-detonation. That’s why higher performance and higher compression engines will require higher octane fuels. Kawi engineered the VN750 to run on regular octane fuel so I think that’s what is best.
@@CFG750 gtk!!! That sounds awesome as I am kind of frugal although I'm not sure if I will even ride it much especially the short remainder in this season as I will be teaching myself very gingerly all the techniques and I'm waiting to get gear unfortunately I ordered a dark helmet and I might end up returning it and getting a white Helmet or something bright if not putting reflectiive tape on the back but I wil notl be riding at night anyways I'm just looking to be more visible!!
@@ericgreen1079That's a safe way to go about it. Enjoy! I was in the same situation as you with my Vulcan 750 back in 2020. It was the start of an incredible passion of mine.
I blew a front piston rod on my 2006 Vulcan750 last week. Any idea how much it would cost to fix it or should I get another Kawasaki?
Woof, that sucks to hear. Do you know what the root cause was? Over rev? It depends on your budget and how much you like your VN750. I really enjoy riding mine, so it was worth it for me to pay a dealer in 2021 to pull out the engine to replace the stator. I bought the bike for $2k and paid the dealer another $2k for the stator work. So all in I spent $4k for a bike that rides just as nice (if not better) than any other $4k bike out there. So for me, it was worth it.
If you do have the dealer take care of the piston rod, also think about what else you may want done. The engine balance dampeners are a common failure point, as is the stator. All of which require an engine pull. I hope this helps.
@@CFG750 Helps a lot. Will keep this in mind when I go see a mechanic.
Irmão, traduz em português, essa porra
Eu gostaria de poder por você. Sinto muito. Só tenho tempo para responder a comentários em outros idiomas usando o Google Tradutor.