I've had my bike 10 years and only done 3 oil changes. It spent 4 years sitting. Got a love hate thing going. Love your channel, could have used it in 2012.
I know the feeling. Honestly, without the helpful members over at VN750.com I probably would have sold this bike by now. But the forum has helped me learn how to fix things on the bike and perform maintenance. So this is my way of giving back to the Vulcan 750 community. 🫡
"I was not ready for that much oil to come out. I should have been." I've been there more often than I would like to admit! Thanks for revisiting this with new info. Just changed mine. Next time, I'll have to do this.
And also make sure to get a crush washer if there isn’t one on there already. I didn’t have one, and didn’t realize I should get one until today when someone informed me over at VN750.com. No problem, I’ll just get one next time I do an oil change.
Hey I love all these videos, I recently got a Vulcan 750 and your videos have helped a lot but I am curious about what little accessories you have put on your Vulcan. Could be a good video idea! 😎
Mine only at that bottom bolt . In the pass 20 yrs I only use motul semi sintetic , cause I bought a carton box for long term use . Now finish . For me i strongly believe it has done a good job inside the engine . Until now that engine is still running well. Very happy with it. Recently done a carburettor wash. Tq
Does that mean you’ve never checked the screen? I’d recommend you check it. I wonder if my previous owner also never checked the screen because when I checked it I saw a few small metal bits…probably I think left over from the engine break in. Because ever since that first time I saw the metal bits, every single oil change after that the oil screen has been clean and clear.
@@CFG750following your recommendation I saw couple metal flakes but more black plastic like stuff. I suspect it’s from timing chain slider chipping off . Not metallic.
@@chewwanchoon6109 same thing I saw during my very first oil change at 13k. Every subsequent oil change since then has been clean and clear. I’m at 30k mileage now and change the oil every 3,500 to 4,000 miles.
So i did the oil change today, the bottom drain gave me nothing. Filter and side plug did all the work. Ps, i had the washer, filter, spring, and nut in that order. Nothing bad happened. The Filter probably went through the washer and the spring did no actual work for 5 years. 😅 It feels Like it's time to upload a front fork rebuild video. Yessir.
🤣 I'd be curious if next time you'd get oil out of the bottom drain bolt with the correct order of the screen and washer and such. And you're not wrong, it's time for be to change my fork oil. Literally, I'm overdue...according to the service manual it should be done at 24k miles and I'm at 29k. So I'll be doing this first thing in the Spring when it warms up. 🙃
@@CFG750 you mean this sweet UA-cam engagement hasn't covered the cost of a space heater?? Tell me on here if you buy any specific tools so I can keep in step with you. Still haven't done the rear shock oils. One is still mounted in reverse Idk who did it 😂
@@MrNightpwner LMAO, I do have a nice infrared tripod heater, actually. So at this point I'm just making excuses for not working in the cold. 🤫 The only tool I've purchased is a big 19mm socket to remove the rear tire axel nut with my breaker bar. Everything else I've already had, which is why tinkering with these VN750's has such a low bar for entry I think. If you wanted, another great tool is a set of JIS Screw Drivers to make sure you don't strip any of the JIS screws on this Japanese bike. Especially if you're doing carb work. JIS screw drivers is something I still need to buy. 😬
@@CFG750 ah I rebuilt my carbs in 2020 with a regular Phillips, I had no issues. Except there's fuel leaking from somewhere. I'm not touching that carb ever again until someone shows me how to remove it easily.
@@MrNightpwner The carbs on these bikes are a pain. Partly due to the nature of it being a Vtwin. But also due to that pesky air intake "surge tank". I've never needed to remove my carbs, luckily. But I do plan to do the "Ear Shave" mod, which will remove the stock air cleaners, surge tank, and purge valve/associated tubing. Instead, you use pod style filters and they get attached directly to the carbs on either side. This should make accessing/removing the carbs a bit easier. Plus it looks awesome IMO and apparently you get to hear intake noise of air rushing into the carbs? I'll be making a video about this in the future.
@@tiff9137 Thanks homie. I had fun making this one and seeing just how much oil came out from that bottom crank bolt! I didn’t put on a crush washer, but I’ll make a new oil change video to better show the process and also mention (and show) what kind of crush washer to get. 😜
I can recommend you check a few things. First, have you looked at where your speedo cable connects to the front wheel? Check this video/time stamp out and investigate the condition of your cable...you may need a new one. ua-cam.com/video/P7vPJkLE5PU/v-deo.htmlsi=xA3wzDModkHvYIrd&t=358 There is an old post over at VN750.com that seems to offer one possible resolution. www.vn750.com/threads/speedometer-issue-resolved-here%E2%80%99s-the-fix.105217/#post-1284361 You can also check out the rest of VN750.com. www.vn750.com/search/95171/?q=speedometer+not+working&o=relevance And lastly, if none of these resolve your issue please create a profile over at VN750.com (if you haven't done so already) and introduce yourself and your issue. There, myself and the other members can provide more insight. Would you consider keeping me involved with your troubleshooting process/resolution? Before I make a video, I need to learn about the issue first, but I've never done anything with my Vulcan's speedo. So I can perhaps learn from your journey and then make a video about it?
@@ethans2791Great to hear! That's awesome. I've never replaced the speedo cable so I don't know what that entails. But don't hesitate to reach out over at VN750.com if you need further help with this or any other future issue.
Are you asking about a photo related to the VN750? Create a free profile over at VN750.com and introduce yourself and ask your question over there. Me and the other members can help you out over there. ✌️
100%, will do. When I ride 3,500 miles on the Shell Rotella oil I’ll get an oil analysis done to compare it against the Motul and make a video about it. I’ll also talk about any differences I notice in how the bike shifts with this slightly heavier weight oil (the Motul was 10W40). ✌️
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Never fill the oil filter!! It may cause troubles (not 100%, but you have high chanses). Many filter manufacturers now even add a “do not fill the filter with oil” pictogram on the box. My friend's dad had worked as a mechanic for more than 20 years (BMW, Mazda, Toyota, Skoda). And he saw such cases. P.s. Pevious owner of my Vulcan used "Ipon 15w-50". Idk how it influences on this particular engine's work - next spring I'll change oil to 10w-40 and compare (it wasn't necessasy as he drove 500 miles before selling the bike).
This is the first I’ve heard to not fill the oil filter with oil. I’ll take this into consideration and do some more research on my end, thanks. Do you know what kind of troubles a prefilled oil filter can cause? I don’t always do it, especially on my cars where the oil filter is difficult to access. Thanks for sharing. Regarding your oil weight, your 50 weight oil seems ok, it is in the Clymer Service Manual as one of the recommended oil viscosities after all. But I think what’s more common is 40 for cooler temps. In warmer climates I’ve seen posts on VN750.com from owners who run 50 weight oil. Also the thinner oil can better dissipate engine heat and pump a little faster possibly than the 50 weight.
Just found this from a quick google search. Interesting and insightful. I think I’ll forego pre filling oil filters from now on. Thanks for your comment. “You should not pre-fill the filter unless you do it from the outer ring holes. Any oil that goes into the center will reach the engine unfiltered (and there is no cleanliness standard for new oils).”
@@CFG750 Unfortunately, it's hard to remember what exactly went wrong (about five years have passed after friend's dad told us not to fill oil filter - I just keep "not filling"). Was it a problem with bypass valve? Or check valve? Or was it a problem with oil pressure and air in filter during first start (something like airlock)... Maybe it depends on filter design. Yep. I saw in "manual" I can use oil 15w-50. But... Such oil has higher viscosity and more suitable for driving all the time with high temperature (Texas says "hello"). And It makes starting engine harder on 50-55F. And it's harder for engine to work (more fuel to drive). On the one hand, sometimes it's up to 95F outside in summer. On the other - I won't go anywhere on my bike, when it's hot like hell. =)) So, I'm going to try less viscous oil. (hope engine won't "eat" it)
I've had my bike 10 years and only done 3 oil changes. It spent 4 years sitting. Got a love hate thing going. Love your channel, could have used it in 2012.
I know the feeling. Honestly, without the helpful members over at VN750.com I probably would have sold this bike by now. But the forum has helped me learn how to fix things on the bike and perform maintenance. So this is my way of giving back to the Vulcan 750 community. 🫡
"I was not ready for that much oil to come out. I should have been."
I've been there more often than I would like to admit! Thanks for revisiting this with new info. Just changed mine. Next time, I'll have to do this.
And also make sure to get a crush washer if there isn’t one on there already. I didn’t have one, and didn’t realize I should get one until today when someone informed me over at VN750.com.
No problem, I’ll just get one next time I do an oil change.
😃Your bike is clean clean bro👍👍thanks for the video. Cheers!!!!
I love your videos! So helpful and informative!
Thanks, mate. I’ve got several videos planned before it gets too cold to comfortably work in the garage. Stay tuned and enjoy. ☺️
Nice! Thank you!
You are welcome ✌️
Hey I love all these videos, I recently got a Vulcan 750 and your videos have helped a lot but I am curious about what little accessories you have put on your Vulcan. Could be a good video idea! 😎
Mine only at that bottom bolt . In the pass 20 yrs I only use motul semi sintetic , cause I bought a carton box for long term use . Now finish . For me i strongly believe it has done a good job inside the engine . Until now that engine is still running well. Very happy with it. Recently done a carburettor wash. Tq
Does that mean you’ve never checked the screen? I’d recommend you check it. I wonder if my previous owner also never checked the screen because when I checked it I saw a few small metal bits…probably I think left over from the engine break in. Because ever since that first time I saw the metal bits, every single oil change after that the oil screen has been clean and clear.
@@CFG750 next oil change , I will check the screen. Never been open for that long. Good advice. Will do . Tq
@@CFG750following your recommendation I saw couple metal flakes but more black plastic like stuff. I suspect it’s from timing chain slider chipping off . Not metallic.
@@chewwanchoon6109 same thing I saw during my very first oil change at 13k. Every subsequent oil change since then has been clean and clear. I’m at 30k mileage now and change the oil every 3,500 to 4,000 miles.
So i did the oil change today, the bottom drain gave me nothing. Filter and side plug did all the work. Ps, i had the washer, filter, spring, and nut in that order. Nothing bad happened. The Filter probably went through the washer and the spring did no actual work for 5 years. 😅
It feels Like it's time to upload a front fork rebuild video. Yessir.
🤣 I'd be curious if next time you'd get oil out of the bottom drain bolt with the correct order of the screen and washer and such. And you're not wrong, it's time for be to change my fork oil. Literally, I'm overdue...according to the service manual it should be done at 24k miles and I'm at 29k. So I'll be doing this first thing in the Spring when it warms up. 🙃
@@CFG750 you mean this sweet UA-cam engagement hasn't covered the cost of a space heater??
Tell me on here if you buy any specific tools so I can keep in step with you. Still haven't done the rear shock oils. One is still mounted in reverse Idk who did it 😂
@@MrNightpwner LMAO, I do have a nice infrared tripod heater, actually. So at this point I'm just making excuses for not working in the cold. 🤫
The only tool I've purchased is a big 19mm socket to remove the rear tire axel nut with my breaker bar. Everything else I've already had, which is why tinkering with these VN750's has such a low bar for entry I think. If you wanted, another great tool is a set of JIS Screw Drivers to make sure you don't strip any of the JIS screws on this Japanese bike. Especially if you're doing carb work. JIS screw drivers is something I still need to buy. 😬
@@CFG750 ah I rebuilt my carbs in 2020 with a regular Phillips, I had no issues. Except there's fuel leaking from somewhere. I'm not touching that carb ever again until someone shows me how to remove it easily.
@@MrNightpwner The carbs on these bikes are a pain. Partly due to the nature of it being a Vtwin. But also due to that pesky air intake "surge tank". I've never needed to remove my carbs, luckily. But I do plan to do the "Ear Shave" mod, which will remove the stock air cleaners, surge tank, and purge valve/associated tubing. Instead, you use pod style filters and they get attached directly to the carbs on either side. This should make accessing/removing the carbs a bit easier. Plus it looks awesome IMO and apparently you get to hear intake noise of air rushing into the carbs? I'll be making a video about this in the future.
Great videos welldone, Q. Was there a crush washer on the drain bolt?
@@tiff9137 Thanks homie. I had fun making this one and seeing just how much oil came out from that bottom crank bolt! I didn’t put on a crush washer, but I’ll make a new oil change video to better show the process and also mention (and show) what kind of crush washer to get. 😜
Can You do a video about the speedometer not working and how to address what the main causes of them to stop working are? Thanks
I can recommend you check a few things. First, have you looked at where your speedo cable connects to the front wheel? Check this video/time stamp out and investigate the condition of your cable...you may need a new one.
ua-cam.com/video/P7vPJkLE5PU/v-deo.htmlsi=xA3wzDModkHvYIrd&t=358
There is an old post over at VN750.com that seems to offer one possible resolution.
www.vn750.com/threads/speedometer-issue-resolved-here%E2%80%99s-the-fix.105217/#post-1284361
You can also check out the rest of VN750.com.
www.vn750.com/search/95171/?q=speedometer+not+working&o=relevance
And lastly, if none of these resolve your issue please create a profile over at VN750.com (if you haven't done so already) and introduce yourself and your issue. There, myself and the other members can provide more insight.
Would you consider keeping me involved with your troubleshooting process/resolution? Before I make a video, I need to learn about the issue first, but I've never done anything with my Vulcan's speedo. So I can perhaps learn from your journey and then make a video about it?
@@CFG750 took cable off and inspected my parts looks to be a bad cable
@@ethans2791Great to hear! That's awesome. I've never replaced the speedo cable so I don't know what that entails. But don't hesitate to reach out over at VN750.com if you need further help with this or any other future issue.
@@CFG750my cable never gives me any problem . Ones a while i put gear oil at top let it slowly flow down and then screw back to meter .
By chance do you know what this is? How do I add a photo?
Are you asking about a photo related to the VN750? Create a free profile over at VN750.com and introduce yourself and ask your question over there. Me and the other members can help you out over there. ✌️
@@CFG750 Thanks
I went to the form as you asked... about my 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 @@CFG750
Can you please let us know how the 15w40 holds up. That brand works really great with my buses
100%, will do. When I ride 3,500 miles on the Shell Rotella oil I’ll get an oil analysis done to compare it against the Motul and make a video about it. I’ll also talk about any differences I notice in how the bike shifts with this slightly heavier weight oil (the Motul was 10W40). ✌️
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Never fill the oil filter!! It may cause troubles (not 100%, but you have high chanses).
Many filter manufacturers now even add a “do not fill the filter with oil” pictogram on the box.
My friend's dad had worked as a mechanic for more than 20 years (BMW, Mazda, Toyota, Skoda). And he saw such cases.
P.s. Pevious owner of my Vulcan used "Ipon 15w-50". Idk how it influences on this particular engine's work - next spring I'll change oil to 10w-40 and compare (it wasn't necessasy as he drove 500 miles before selling the bike).
This is the first I’ve heard to not fill the oil filter with oil. I’ll take this into consideration and do some more research on my end, thanks. Do you know what kind of troubles a prefilled oil filter can cause? I don’t always do it, especially on my cars where the oil filter is difficult to access. Thanks for sharing.
Regarding your oil weight, your 50 weight oil seems ok, it is in the Clymer Service Manual as one of the recommended oil viscosities after all. But I think what’s more common is 40 for cooler temps. In warmer climates I’ve seen posts on VN750.com from owners who run 50 weight oil. Also the thinner oil can better dissipate engine heat and pump a little faster possibly than the 50 weight.
Just found this from a quick google search. Interesting and insightful. I think I’ll forego pre filling oil filters from now on. Thanks for your comment.
“You should not pre-fill the filter unless you do it from the outer ring holes. Any oil that goes into the center will reach the engine unfiltered (and there is no cleanliness standard for new oils).”
@@CFG750 Unfortunately, it's hard to remember what exactly went wrong (about five years have passed after friend's dad told us not to fill oil filter - I just keep "not filling"). Was it a problem with bypass valve? Or check valve? Or was it a problem with oil pressure and air in filter during first start (something like airlock)... Maybe it depends on filter design.
Yep. I saw in "manual" I can use oil 15w-50. But... Such oil has higher viscosity and more suitable for driving all the time with high temperature (Texas says "hello"). And It makes starting engine harder on 50-55F. And it's harder for engine to work (more fuel to drive). On the one hand, sometimes it's up to 95F outside in summer. On the other - I won't go anywhere on my bike, when it's hot like hell. =)) So, I'm going to try less viscous oil. (hope engine won't "eat" it)
@@MrBaclajan You'll be fine I think with the lower viscosity oil ☺
@@CFG750 Spring and first 1000 miles will show. =)