Should you 3D Print in ABS? Probably not.
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- ABS plastic has been used for FDM 3D Printing for ages... but is it time to move on? Let's test some brands out, as well as some alternatives!
Filaments Tested (non affiliate links):
Hobbyking Generic ABS - hobbyking.com/en_us/abs-3d-pr...
Compositum ABS ST - corostore.eu/compositum-abs-st...
Fillamentum ASA - fillamentum.com/collections/a...
Matterhackers Silver PRO series ABS - www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
Polymaker PC-Max - www.polymaker.com/shop/polymak...
7yr old ABS - lol
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---- - Наука та технологія
I really like this state of filaments, would be great to have a 2021 version!
@Benito Daudier yeah no one cares
Still printing in ABS today and recently started to print in ASA.
Why do i love ABS so much?
I just LOVE the fact that you can weld it with acetone, and it's not as brittle / stiff as some alternatives and not as hygroscopic, so you can store it easily without degrading.
Also ABS and ASA can withstand higher temperatures before melting, ASA is even UV resistant, so no degradation from direct sunlight.
- Note that i do not print funny puppets and stuff, only useful items like brackets, casings, repair parts.. -
I just checked Amazon and Polymaker PC Max is $159 for 3 kg. The Yoyi ABS I've been using is $18 per kilogram. At least for now I think I'll stick with ABS.
What a ripp off i print 9 euro for 1KG PLA, and ABS is even cheaper like 7 euro for 1KG
@Mozzman dude doesn't pc make worse fumes?
@@pawesteller7833 Where are you getting filament at those prices? The cheapest I was able to find is HobbyKing's ABS. That's 12 euros with change ATM
@Mozzman ??? explain please
@Mozzman I print ABS in a closed room could that have an effect in your opinion?
Many printed rabbits where harmed during the making of this video.
It's OK they reproduce fast.
CALL PETA! :D
Serious Maran call PETG
MONSTER!
Abs is still the best for my uses. Acetone smoothing and welding are the backbone of my 3dp business
try ASA it has simmillar properties but prints better details, is UV resistent and is not too expensive
@@Larsi1997 asa is awesome, but sadly not many manufacturers have adopted it yet
@@syndan9245 This right here. Color selection is very limited as is stock. Just sourcing a couple of rolls for my Voron build took some shopping around.
PTB (Polysmooth) ftw. Smoothing with alkohol vapors instead of acetone.
@@Larsi1997 I have seen black abs last a long time outside
Yeah youtube, just recommend me this right after I buy a spool of abs
One thing to consider is that abs has the lowest weight per cm3, which can be important when you're designing anything that needs to push the limits. I've printed parts for a model solar car engineering competition in both PLA and ABS and saved about 20g with the abs, which might sounds small but is rather significant in my application.
Its 2019, do an update to this video.
I don't think it really changes anything. ABS is still a good engineering material at a good price and it prints super tough parts if you give it the right printer.
2020 now
Yah, the polycarb stuff seems rather expensive by comparison to ABS. I only had a quick look so I might not be comparing apples.
I think just use ASA pretty much same price and also adds UV protection while maintaining the strength of ABS.
I come from the future, he should
The sound track you play at the end, where did you sample the voice from? ie the man speaking about the space. Kindly do let know.
What about PETG?
+1, I'd like to hear your (Angus's) opinion on PETG
PETG is awesome
PETG is awesome!
i wanted to wrrite the same thing.
ABS is crappy on physical strhength (PLA is better)
PETG is like PLA but with higher temperature tolerance.
PETG is brittle and can explode (similar to PLA). But ABS has a less brittle failure mode, will turn white before breaking. Also, if you are a bit touchy on finishes, PETG is always kind of translucid/shiny, and ABS can be more matte.
quite a few people seem to swear by ABS for high resolution prints, usually
"I love printing with PC Max, it's just really expensive" Aand this is why most people *should* still print in ABS (or PLA). When I can get PC Max (or whatever other filament is better) for $17/kg, then and only then will I want to switch to it permanently.
It doesn't matter how "outdated" you think it is. The fact remains that it's "really expensive", as you pointed out yourself. Most people are willing to get a printer with an enclosed box (which many have anyway) rather than paying so much for filament.
I have recently been revisiting ABS is it's been a success. I built a set temp chamber, and got usable results. The thing is, is that for most prints ABS from a chamber actually has really good layer adhesion and without a raft or anything you can still get away with large detailed prints with no warping. Once you have all your other setting dialed in it actually prints just a well as PLA if not better, and given the temperature it can withstand that gives it a huge edge. Not to mention is can be finished easier than anything else with Acetone smoothing. I have found abs likes 45 degrees C ambient 30% filament cooling fan (depending on your machine) , and no slower than 60mm/s depending on layer height. It's a difficult plastic to get just right but totally worth it. I went from giving ABS up after PETG became popular to now, ABS being my go to. With ambient printing heat it's strong, it's dirt cheap, UV resistant, heat resistant, can be printed fast, works well with all nozzle sizes, and it's uses are probably more versatile than any other 3D print material out there. The only problem you may get is difficulty printing small vertical details, and getting the layers to stick, but again all that can be tweaked out.
I have a Prusa i3 pro and I need a cooling fan. Would a 30mm fan be just as good as a 40mm? And does anyone know where I can get one with a long enough 2 pin cable?
Should you 3D print in ABS ? well every materials have their pros and cons. The choice of the material depends on which application the part will be used for. It's totally different whether the part is just aesthetic/artistic or functionnal.
I usually print in ABS rather than PLA because I mostly print functionnal parts (mechanical parts), and aesthetic parts can be smoothed in aceton vapor bath.
And as far as I know other high temperature material like nylon or polycarbonate still suffer the same issues as ABS.
Hansbald depends on what you need, PETG definitely offers food contact and chemical resistance, but ABS parts still will stand a bit higher temperatures, and as far as I know, ABS seems more durable for outdoor uses. So still depends on a point of view.
try to smooth PETG with acetone
Not as catchy of a title...
Thanks, Angus.
This is the type of content I want to see on your channel. Cheers!
I recently used PETG to print motor mounts. The results looked nice and strong but very soon the mounts broke due to vibrations so I went back to ABS which is not as strong as PETG but can take a lot of vibration without breaking. So what about those PC derivate? Is it vibration proof?
I ABSolutely love ABS. It gives you a smooth finish, it's more forgiven, the supports are easy to take off, more flexible. But it's weak, you need to compensate with more walls and it smells, you can't stay on a room with abs.
Smells is a big one. I had forgotten how bad it could be, the hepa filter in the mini 2 does heaps to cut it down.
You guys either have way more sensitive noses. I print ABS daily, printer is like a meter from me (mk2s). To smell anything I need to lean over the heatbed and actively sniff.
Same, I was concerned that i wasnt smelling anything when i first started printing, thought they shipped me a different plastic
IDK I can't stay in a closed room when printed abs for a couple of hours it's unbreathable my throat starts to shrink after some minutes
Perhaps it's brand related? But I print mostly in cheap abs from wolfix.
ABS is amazing! I use it to make models, parts, etc. Then I smooth it with acetone and if done right it barely even loses any detail. Then I make a mold with it to use with other materials. For example, pour wax in the mold and then do lost wax casting.
Exactly the reason I print mostly ABS. I print a lot of working prototypes, so I need a material that’s more flexible, doesn’t melt in the sun and is easy to finish. PLA is a bitch to sand and no easy way of smoothing it. I have a lot of ABS parts that I sanded, smoothed with acetone vapor, didn’t paint them at all and you could never tell they’re 3D printed. Plus, I keep a jar of goo made from acetone and failed ABS prints to use as a bondo replacement to fix some minor defects.
With keycaps it is seen as lower quality and pbt is seen as higher quality
@Sebastian how is he selling products or controlling the market - it's just his own opinion, and making money on the side is part of being a content creator
in 3d printing there's no big monopoly on filament or printers yet
I got the Prusa i3 mk2s and have the original nozzle(brass?) but I have heard you can't print PC filament with it. But is that true? Do I need to get a metal nozzle or what do I need to change if needed?
Have you tried the E3D Edge material? I'm curious as to your thoughts and experience with it.
Hey Angus, Big Fan. One question, can you export the settings you used for the PC-Max prints? Recently bought a spool due to your recommendation but I'm having trouble getting it to work on my UM2. Thanks.
Quick question: how did you tweak the print temperature on the UP Mini 2? My experience with their slicer suggests the temperature controls are locked away, and last I checked the print protocol hadn't been cracked yet like it was with the original UP Mini.
Do you know of an ABS substitute that can print at a lower temp. like PLA but still be chemically smoothed and welded with acetone or something similar? I print a lot of parts to go with existing styrene kits and prefer the chemical bond of the parts over superglues and the like.
How should I go about storing (Makeshaper) PLA? In Florida? Should I store it in plastic bags in a storage bin or would the heat and humidity of Florida actually be beneficial to it?
What about Arizona since I may be moving there soon? Hot, dry air as opposed to hot, humid air? Because I'm buying $200+ of the stuff, 26kg of filament (cheap filament because I'm just starting out, nothing is load bearing) I don't want that going bad since it'll last me like 3 years, some of the colors.
I print a bunch of ABS on my CR-10 without any of the mentioned problems. The learning curve for ABS is just slightly higher. But it's great for light functional parts that won't send splinters in your eyes when someone drops them. The slight flex is also just perfect for ultra light lens caps or cr2032 holders. I also used it for moderate speed rotors. And of course in my 3d pen to weld abs parts together.
Soo, i have a question.
What kind of Filament would be most viable for the construction of Ball joints
and other parts that need to the flex just a bit but also have the correct tolerances
necessary to hold positions yet also move smoothly?
Very insightful! I print mainly for vids myself and PLA has been fantastic to get the job done!
Could you make a video explaining support in meshmixer? I've been trying it out but i still can't get good support with any settings.
id love to see an update to this now! you rock btw
Can you recommend any other filaments that can be smoothened with acetone or something similar?
thanks again man, you allways seem to have some sort of explaination or motivational words on certain aspects of 3D-printing whatsoever. You are way far allround in terms of how, why, when and what to do next. I really appreciate your tutorials
Just want to say a heartful thank you for giving out the STL of the test bunny!
Just starting...haven't even received our printer yet...does pc-max work well in a Monoprice Select Plus? Looking for a tough material.
Is PC-Max the same as Carbon-P? I've been using PLA on a Cocoon Create for a while now. I would like to print using a much stronger material. The RS website mentions that CARBON-P is suitable for Drone and RC Parts. True or not? What would you suggest for use on Drone parts? Thanks.
I wanted ABS to print an airbox design for my car, what material would be your alternative recommendation to this?
I've had crazy good results with PLA on my i3 - one problem with car parts I've printed it heat distortion - I made a digital boost gauge and a clip for the vents and in summer months the clips do not last long.
As you've mentioned ABS can be troublesome to pint - how do the newer filaments react to heat and do they need a heated enclosure?
Did you ever get something that works well for higher temperatures
+Maker's Muse I've been testing PC-Max. So far it either sticks too well or not at all. I'm using Polymaker's recommended temperatures of 260 and 80 °C. Do you use the BuildTak supplied with PC-Max or something else? Or is your UP Mini the one equipped with PrintBite?
The secret to getting PC-Max to stick to BuildTak well - but not so well that you wind up tearing chunks out of it - seems to be to start with a relatively high nozzle height and work your way down gradually. Plain polycarbonate doesn't seem to stick to BuildTak no matter what. So far, PEI plus glue stick seems to work best. But I hate using glue stick. I'm going to try PrintBite next.
PETG all the way. I haven't touched my ABS spools for months after trying PETG
I am new to printing but i need something UV stabilised - what would you recommend in 2021??
ASA is a close cousin to ABS and UV resistant...
What material is easy to print with and can sand or acetone smooth?
So you need the same conditions for pc as for abs, a hotter hotend, but it doesn't warp as much?
What do you recommend printing in to create parts that can be smoothed easily via chemical exposure?
Hi Angus, I have an UP.Mini 2 as well, how did you print the polycarbonate? Are you using the temp mod?
+Warren Schilpzand I'm running up studio and printing on stock abs settings, which is 260ish degrees and seems to work great!
I put my printer in my garage and run it on hot days works really well with the abs. I have had issues in winter sometimes. In Perth western Australia:)
Co9uld you compare PETG and PC filaments? I print a lot of PETG and like it for structural parts, wondering if I should switch to PC.
What would you use to print tool holders for sheds, eg to hold knives, pens, pliers, screwdrivers, etc? High humidity high ambient temp shed (Wet tropics), something that can bang around a little without breaking easy?
Tried using PETG for a while after watching vids with this opinion. My parts kept breaking when they absorbed forces from large impacts. Finally built an enclosure for my CR-10 and printing in ABS now and so far my parts are holding up. The ABS seems to be more flexible which I think is helping.
I need a printer material that is waterproof and can be dug into the ground, for enclosures for gardening stuff. Is ABS best for this or are there better materials?
so if i get my 3d printer in a closet will it help with abs printing?
Hi Angus,
I'm looking to print 1/10 scale car accessories like bumpers, witches hats, door handles, etc.
These items will be attached to a remote control car and probably even driven over or rolled over onto as the car inevitably rolls when going offroad.
Would you recommend PLA as a good filament for these types of uses?
I printed some parts for my axial crawler and the only filament that is strong enough is nylon. The rest will break or crack. Nylon is the best (flexibel) for bumpers etc...
Is there printable polystyrene, I do scale models and a machine like this would be very helpful
I've got a question about Formfuturas titanx abs. It has literally no warping, but I can not get it to smooth, does anybody know, if its smoothable?
What build plate are you using on that printer?
What are your thoughts on PETG?
it's a good alternative, can be more stringing though and bridging can be shit, and it's more flexible. other than that its ok. you always get more ABS per KG since it's lower density, so a good bargain really.
Hello please make a video explaining best settings for supports that are built on the printed part and not on the bed. Cura for example has support interfaces and they have so many settings just for the interface please help
I just got my first printer (an Ender 3) this last month, and your channel has helped me so much!! BTW I am super impressed with the Ender 3, so if anyone is looking to dive in I can't recommend it highly enough.
Please keep the awesome and informative content coming.
I'd like to get a 3d printer sometime soon and from what I've seen, the Ender 3 is one of the best reviewed 3d printers for it's price.
I've got an ender 3 and what I'm wanting now costs $70,000
Printing in ABS...why not?
I print in ABS with a 90% success rate, I recycle failed prints and raft and print with that. I have 7 printers and only 2 have chambers. If want to get a smother print I use my POLYMAKER POLYSHER like the one right behind you. For me your statement seems invalid, or am I missing something?
Everyone reacts to smells differently and i think Angus really hates the smell of ABS.
I print with PETG with about a 99% success rate (100% now that I always glue stick). No odor of any kind, durable (as durable as ABS), food safe, no cracking, no shrinking, and (with a glue stick) always sticks to the bed. All for ~$15 per kilo. I would much rather use PETG and get all of the upsides of ABS without any of the downsides!
Just because you get poor details with PETG doesn't mean everyone does. I get amazing detail, indistingushable from some of the best PLA on the market. As far as colors, I can find as many PETG colors as PLA or ABS for my printer (though to be fair most filaments are color limited with 2.85 mm so that may not be entirely fair).
I am old school injection model kit builder and prefer to work with poly styrene because it can be glued deeper than urethanes etc.. .. is ABS compatible?
Is there a non-ABS filament the prints as easy as PLA but can withstand being outdoors or in a hot car?
What are the abs fumes like?
I also print a lot of rc boat stuff, pla is nog going to work or i need to paint it to protect it
Hı I want to 3d prınt s 150 Cm hovercraft to use ın water would the Hobbykıng fıllamnt be a choıce for that?
Just out of curiosity what program do you use to model things. I'm sure i've heard this numerous times in your videos and i'm just stupid and let it fly over my head.
I print tiny drone frames in abs. Layer adhesion is of course an issue for failures during crashes but abs is very light in an application where 1 gram can mean huge changes in flight performance. Can you suggest a replacement that has a similar or lower density than abs and great strength/flexibility characteristics?
Exactly this. I see a bunch of comments saying PETG but that shit is heavy.
Yep, I'm tempted by petg... but if I break an abs frame - I just print another... that's what the printer is for after all. Makers Muse - give us an ultimate guide to lightweight filaments please!!
PETG is also more flexible, less heat resistant, creeps more under load and has a worse failure mode than ABS
Uh well ASA has the exact same density as ABS, maybe that's the ticket. It's also closely related, with merely rubber component of the plastic being replaced.
But ABS is cheap. Just print more ABS, and break it often, no biggie. Apropos cheap, HIPS is normally considered more brittle than ABS, but maybe it's just stiffer when deformed slowly but still survives hard crashes better? I have found conflicting data. Still, it's likely that ABS is better.
As to getting things lighter... well actual lightweight plastics are HDPE/LDPE, PP and TPE. LDPE and TPE will be flappy - can you live with that, can you fly a flappy drone? I have no idea. At least you can easily buy TPE filament, it's sold as flexible filament. You can buy Verbatim PP, it'll warp on ya pretty badly, and it costs a fortune. I think Tom has had it? HDPE had been tried in the past because it's a low temperature material, and it warped badly, and delaminated, barely stuck to itself. I think i sense a theme here. If you can control their shrinking by keeping them in toasty, hot chamber... i think you can achieve something spectacular with materials not currently widely considered printable.
Website bug? I want to open your petg basics video via chrome but i get linked to toms3d and cant do anything as i get linked to a seemingly random article. (Im on android)
How badly does Polycarbonate warp? I heard it's worse than ABS, so if ABS is diffcult to print, Polycarbonate is even more difficult.
It needs a higher extrusion temperature, but in my experience warp is similar and manageable at least in the UP Mini 2 it's not an issue.
Polycarbonate in general is much worse than ABS, you should not generalize - the good results you got are with only the single super expensive PC-Max material BLEND, not with "polycarbonate".
Saying that ABS is obsolete is too much too soon.
ABS will be obsolete only when there is a generic type of material supplied with multiple vendors that is not 4x as expensive as ABS and is as good as PC-Max.
Jan Hlavatý it's vallée PETG
On my printer cheap HK PC warps way more than ABS. It might have to do with the absence of a heated chaimber, bed at 130°C though.
@@hlavaatch it's $40 now for 750g. Wonder if it's still good?
What settings are you using on your UP Mini 2 to print PC-Max? I'm interested in trying it out but am not sure needs to be changed from the defaults.
+mcotton1234 literally using the default 'ABS' setting in up studio. It's too hot for aftermarket abs but perfect for PC
Thanks! I got it based on your review and have been really happy so far. Keep up the great videos.
+mcotton1234 awesome! Thanks for the comment
What's best for a phone case pla or abs
What kind of filament except ABS can you smooth with acetone or other easy to handle solvent?
Very late reply, but there are a couple. ASA can also be smoothed with acetone. PVB (e.g. Polymaker Polysmooth) can be smoothed with isopropyl alcohol. Unfortunately, both of those are more expensive.
great video thanks for the info
what would you recommend for high quality detail like PLA but has a high temp transition temp like ABS?
whats it like when you pour petrol on some of these plastics. like acid?
Angus What filament would you recommend for FOOD GRADE items eg coffee cup thank you
yea.. ABS still rules due to economics.
I have a FlashForge Guider II and I can print large models with ABS almost flawlessly with very high detail. Probably because I have an enclosed printer with a heated bed using a BuildTak type of build surface over glass. I was printing ABS on a Robo3D R1+ and that worked pretty well using the heated bed along with PEI for my build platform. With the Robo3D I didn't have an enclosed environment so large prints would sometimes warp or lift but it wasn't as bad as you might imagine if my temperatures were adjusted properly. I would never go back to glue sticks, hairspray, or ABS slurry mess. I love both PEI and BuildTak type print surfaces. I have amazing results with ABS, especially with the FlashForge Guider II. The problems I have had with other filaments I have tried is they are either too hard and brittle, won't last outside exposed to the elements, and they melt at a very low temperature. If you have any recommendations on other types of filaments that don't have these issues, I'd be more than happy to try them.
Just to be 100%. Does pc max warp like abs when printing?
The way i keep my temps stable is using a metal server rack box with a door that i have fitted out to retain the heat but to also add enough airflow around the ender.
I've been wanting to replace the cap of my car's ski holders so I thought of getting a spool of ABS since it will be exposed to everydays sun. You advise me to get a small quantity just for that print as I never printed with ABS?
I'd go for ASA. It's what car makers now use instead of ABS. (car bumpers/fenders, seat belt catches and other parts that need to resist UV)
I've never printed with ABS, but do a lot of PETG printing and like it a lot for its strength, durability and print quality. How does it compare to ABS in those areas?
Sometimes the ABS is a must. I am using it for replacing fairing fixtures for my motorbike. Base material is ABS, and using the very same material allow for easy rebuilt.
In fact it was not that difficult to print it, and acetone smoothing definitely was an added bonus to get easy insertion in the rubber holes.
No doubt other material can probably be better for many applications but sometimes ABS is really the only way to go.
i like the scent of molten abs coming from my printer
(jk, DO NOT BREATH IN ABS ON PURPOSE, ALWASY HAVE GOOD VENTALATION WHILST PRINTING IT)
Thank you. The added "fiddly" nature of ABS is what turns me off. I've had no problems with PLA on my Monoprice/Wanhao Ultimate/Duplicator 6. Printing small, flatish parts parts in ABS was okay but anything with sharp corners is just too unpredictable. And that's where I draw the line. If I have to roll the dice with low odds off success each time I print...I'm less likely to use a material. I don't have the needs ABS solves for so...no more ABS for me.
For those of us with Up Plus!2 or similar, what is the best alternative to ABS?
Almost three years later, and I just discovered M-ABS (modified-ABS) from Fiberlogy. And that filament is just amazing. no bad smell and I had no lifting or warping so far on my Prusa MK3S. I can't do any testing on toughness of the material but it's clearly temperature resistant.
HDglass (modified PETG) is my favourite material to print in so far. Very strong with a bit of bend and next to zero warp....ever.
Strangely enough, I've had more warping issues with PETG than with ABS on my Prusa i3 MK2
Polycarbonate have some special effects which we use when we weld it with thermic welding methods. On most materials the plastified materials is some kind of a weak spot and the flush created during welding dont do anything for the strenght of the part. PC is different here as the flush by itself remains compact and, when the joint is designed properly, increase the joint strength: Said in one sentence? A correctly welded PC Part will break everywhere, except of the joint.
I think that is the reason why it delivers such tough models when you print it. We can think of the lamination the same way as pressing two molten weldconstructions together. I hope this is more or less correct as I am actually not 3D Printing and dont know the process. I intend to buy such a machine for prototyping and thank you for the informative videos!
My engineering buddy just had fits with ABS, but loves PETG, which gave me fits. I have been using PLA+ (Pro) in three different brands and all is great .... especially when annealed. I have a small convection oven and a small hot plate and water pot that I use when i anneal. I use small weights to keep thin edges from warping and print (depending on the brand of PLA+, about 2-3% larger). For my use I have been very, very happy. Learning the annealing process has been great for me.
I agree 100% that there are better filaments out there than ABS ... who wants to go through the bed warping and ?
Thanks Angus, another informative video !
I print in ABS primarily because I can acetone smooth. A mini that is acetone smoothed is far nicer than a PLA printed mini.
I think you can still do that with ASA
Great channel -
It would be really useful if you could mention the fumes given off too.
Perhaps a tick list when reviewing filaments: heat, warping, strength, fumes, etc...
Which infill used in that blue bunny?
Been printing abs since I built my first Mendel soooooo long ago.
Prints lovely on 110 c print bed with kapton tape down. You do have to print a shield round the part though to keep the heat in.
But you can make big stuff if you do that. Always had issues sticking pla to bed without using some kind of stuff.
Where abs just prints straight on to kapton at 110. No glue or hairspray needed. Just occasional acetone clean.
ABS is probably the most widely used plastic for injection molding. Big molding companies use it by the train car load. It molds easily and has good cosmetic and strength characteristics. It can be solvent glued and smoothed with acetone and other common solvents. If you need a lot more strength a glass filled material like nylon or polycarb is the answer. If fact some glass filled materials approach the strength of low grade aluminum. ABS is inexpensive and widely available in plenty of colors. In a Stratasys printer with heated and regulated chamber the results are superb. It precise and accurate. ABS doesn't melt if leave it out in the sun like PLA. I print polycarb and nylon when the application requires it. Otherwise I stick to inexpensive ABS.
Most plastics will absorb water and if they have been lying around soaking up water they won't print very well (or at all). Bake ABS at 150F in a recirculating air or vacuum oven overnight to restore it. ABS recipes differ but any can be successfully extruded into filament will likely print.
Despite the endless stream of new and better plastics (some costing 100X that of ABS) ABS is still among the most wildly used for ordinary parts. It always will be.
Given the fact that most hobby prints are decorative rather than structural any plastic would do.
How strong does the rabbit have to be?
What about PETG? How does that compare strength-wise to PLA, ABS, and PC?
I need to print parts that can survive the outdoors for boats, moisture and UV resistant. I'd love to hear you guys recommendations for a filament that can do that. Strength is not as much of an issue.
Could you post process these prints as easily as ABS? If not acetone smoothing, how about sanding or some other way to improve surface finish?
One cool thing I saw with ABS, is how it reacts with Acetone vapor. It works like a weak acid, and you can use it to smooth out the outside and remove a lot of the layer marks. Which I think is pretty cool. Not sure how easy it is to get acetone though. Or if that benefit is removed by newer fillaments. I'm not really in the 3D printing scene, I just think these videos of yours are super neat. But I do have a friend with a 3D printer, so I might pester him about some of your stuff too.
Cheers.
Not like an acid, it acts exactly like you would expect it from organic solvents.
Not like an acid, it acts exactly like you would expect it from organic solvents.
Really valid point. I don't mind ABS but my current printer isn't enclosed yet and that makes large prints really difficult. Thankfully, there aren't any drafts in my shop and I can get by on smaller parts. I am also partial to PETG but find it "shatters" more readily than ABS so thats something to consider giving the intended application of a specific print. As always, Angus, great video!
Also fumes are something to consider with ABS. A lot of these newer copolymers don't have that issue.
_You should definitely do a video about _*_ASA filament*._** It is my biggest challenge thus far. *I get warping , bubbling on side walls, terrible layer and bed adhesion* .
Love the channel!