This was so incredibly informative. I know it’s extra work to go slowly and add text. It would be an huge asset to true beginners like myself to have more tutorials in this style. Thanks you so much for your content.
Dumb question, but I want to use one of these. Is the yellow the flexcut compound, or is it some other brand? I'm having a hard time finding yellow that isn't flexcut's.
May I ask a question? Which would you prefer? ...a regular whittling knife or the Stanley 199 to whittle? I am new to whittling and have no knife yet - Thanks!
I would definitely recommend going with a dedicated whittling knife to start. Stay away from the mass produced imported "whittling" knives. Just make sure it comes truly ready for whittling. That being said a Stanley 199 is a good knife to use for sharpening practice - it also can be a decent knife once it is set up for whittling. Owning a "real" whittling knife will show you what whittling sharp is. Thank you! 👍✌
Did you find it necessary to extend your blade to carve or it doesn't matter? How did you extend your blade? Did you modify it & epoxy it, like Lynn? Subscribe/Bell
I use blades made by Lenox. They have 4 notches instead of 2 which allows a bit more extension. I use the 2 notches on the hidden end to secure the blade in the knife, never tried any epoxy. I have used it that way for years, no problems. I sharpen, hone and strop each blade before the first use, then for subsequent uses regular stropping works fine. They can last quite some time. The 199 is a great knife and can definitely be used to whittle/carve. I own/owned close to 20 different carving knives and the 199 still is one of my favorites.
@@deltafour1212 I sharpen/hone a new blade on a ceramic stone, you could really use any type of stone. I like to use a stone first because it's fast. Then I strop first with yellow compound on leather, then green compound on leather, and finish with green compound on wood. The key is to get it to cut the wood leaving a smooth clean surface - test it across the edge of some end grain. I have also had success using a mdf based wheel on a slow grinder to prep new blades, followed with stropping as above.
@@deltafour1212 That is the method I use for the utility blade, and you are correct, same for knife blades. If it's for wood carving I use the same process for everything; gouges, carving knives and the 199 blades.
This was so incredibly informative. I know it’s extra work to go slowly and add text. It would be an huge asset to true beginners like myself to have more tutorials in this style. Thanks you so much for your content.
Thank you very much Jessica. I will definitely do more videos with instructions in the future.
Keep up the good work like it.
Thanks Michael!
These tutorials are soo good!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Really well done. Super good info.
Thanks, that is appreciated!
Bravo!!
Thank you Paul!👍✌
Dumb question, but I want to use one of these. Is the yellow the flexcut compound, or is it some other brand? I'm having a hard time finding yellow that isn't flexcut's.
Not a dumb question at all. Yes, it is Flexcut honing compound.👍✌
@@WhittlingWoods Thanks, King 👑
May I ask a question? Which would you prefer? ...a regular whittling knife or the Stanley 199 to whittle? I am new to whittling and have no knife yet - Thanks!
I would definitely recommend going with a dedicated whittling knife to start. Stay away from the mass produced imported "whittling" knives. Just make sure it comes truly ready for whittling. That being said a Stanley 199 is a good knife to use for sharpening practice - it also can be a decent knife once it is set up for whittling. Owning a "real" whittling knife will show you what whittling sharp is. Thank you! 👍✌
@@WhittlingWoods Thank you much! :)
👍
done suport
Thanks
👍🤗
Did you find it necessary to extend your blade to carve or it doesn't matter? How did you extend your blade? Did you modify it & epoxy it, like Lynn? Subscribe/Bell
I use blades made by Lenox. They have 4 notches instead of 2 which allows a bit more extension. I use the 2 notches on the hidden end to secure the blade in the knife, never tried any epoxy. I have used it that way for years, no problems. I sharpen, hone and strop each blade before the first use, then for subsequent uses regular stropping works fine. They can last quite some time.
The 199 is a great knife and can definitely be used to whittle/carve. I own/owned close to 20 different carving knives and the 199 still is one of my favorites.
@@WhittlingWoods Thank you for the Lenox tip. When sharpening, do you use the white & green compound or does the green compound do the job just fine?
@@deltafour1212 I sharpen/hone a new blade on a ceramic stone, you could really use any type of stone. I like to use a stone first because it's fast. Then I strop first with yellow compound on leather, then green compound on leather, and finish with green compound on wood. The key is to get it to cut the wood leaving a smooth clean surface - test it across the edge of some end grain.
I have also had success using a mdf based wheel on a slow grinder to prep new blades, followed with stropping as above.
@@WhittlingWoods I meant the utility blades. I thank you for your sharpening technique for your other carving tools
@@deltafour1212 That is the method I use for the utility blade, and you are correct, same for knife blades. If it's for wood carving I use the same process for everything; gouges, carving knives and the 199 blades.