Excellent tip, thanks! Here's a tip I was given back in 1975 by the best plumber I've ever known: If you're concerned as to whether you've done a good DIY plumbing job, just place toilet tissue/paper towel under the joints you've made, and check them over the next day or two to see if they're still dry. After a plumber in Cambridge did a job for me, I placed tissue under the fittings. Within 10 minutes the tissue was soaked. I then tightened the joints up MYSELF, and used the tissue paper to monitor MY work. Perfect!
I couldn't turn off the house supply and had a drip from the rising main stopcock. The drip was leaking 2 litres per hour! Nightmare! Watched your video twice and followed what you said to the letter. Problem solved in about a minute. Thank you so much. I am in your debt. 👍👍👍
1) You don't need to turn off the water before you do this. 2) You don't need to remove the handle or the packing nut although it does make it slightly easier if you can. 3) You wound the ptfe tape the wrong way. Apart from those little things, great video.
I had a small leak from the exact same place as yours and after following your instructions was able to repair it! I would never have risked doing all that without seeing how it was done first, so thanks!
You should hold the body of the stopcock with a tool when doing up the gland nut otherwise you are putting pressure on the pipe joints and you *really* don't want them to fail.
Thanks, I thought it was an excellent video, I’ve watched many videos on how to repack a stopcock gland. My outside isolator is seized, you’re the only one to confirm the gland can be replaced if the stopcock is in the closed position What’s with all the criticism from “ professional plumbers”, not every situation is ideal with the best tools available, they’re probably pi**ed because they’re losing out on £120 “call out charges” Thanks again
Many thanks for commenting. In an ideal world I would have replaced the complete stopcock but at the time of the video there was a 750kg bulk bags of ballast and MOT type1 sitting over the water meter stop valve outside the house.
Thanks a lot for sharing this tip, I have just repaired a stopcock, using your method, in almost the same position as the one you show. All done and dry so far!
Advice from an eighty five year old plumber. The reason the tap was stiff to turn off. Too much PTFE and you went spanner happy on the gland. It's not necessary to tighten it down all the way. J. Calveley..
Thanks for advice, however at the time of the video, it was an emergency repair to a very worn tap that couldn't be isolated due to seized main water meter stopcock and a 750 kg bag of builders sand dumped on it from a delivery. Originally I did try and nip up the gland nut but it still leaked hence the ptfe tape.
also when squeezing a gland nut.. it should be done when the 332 valve is halfway open. Stop cocks are much heavier brass and have a different code number and need a key to turn them off. You can buy a clamp to clamp the wavin pipe under the unit if that's what was used which it should I hope for you. But the clamps are available online and won't damage the pipe. very handy. also with the pressure u have freezing might not be an option as u need at least 8 inches of frozen pipe to be able to work on mains pipe. Gravity is different. Hope this is a help. Google wavin pipe clamps and you'll be sorted.
If you are going to freeze the pipe to facilitate dismantling the stopcock, get another new stopcock first. Take the head/guts from the body, then swap it with your in situ one. Minimal time then. As you say, you have good water pressure. I wouldn't want to be around if an ice plug failed while the old S/C was in pieces and you were working on it. Stop cocks are usually to BS1010, your poly to copper one clearly is, it's cast on the body of the valve. I had to change the body of a S/C live once. Never again. The flow and pressure were amazing. Mind you, it wasn't far from Hampton water works and pumping station.
Thanks a million - the video was super helpful - followed the instructions - and looking good so far + I had switched off the mains water supply outside the house at the end of the driveway beforehand. Funnily enough I noticed LochSween's comment in the video comments about leaving kitchen towel underneath the tightened nut/joint to check the work for any additional leaks, had done this already but love the tip.
Take 2 foot of ptfe roll it on your leg intoma string grease the shaft put 6 turns around the shaft push the gland in to pack after 3 turns turns should be clockwise carefully replace the gland without cross threadding this will also cut the tape off
Just ensure any PTFE tape is wrapped clockwise around the threads so it doesn't get snagged as the gland nut is tightened. I did this in a rush and wrapped it the wrong way. Still worked though.
Hemp isn't allowed on potable water services. It's organic and can harbour bacteria, likewise with boss/hawk white which have linseed oil in them. Hence PTFE (plumbers tape for everything!) tape and liquid, or Boss Blue. Still okay to use Boss White and hemp on heating connections. That joint will be fine. I've used PTFE string (tape I've twisted betweem my fingers) on packing glands. Holds fine, and never removed the old packing material first. It's only a wadding that's being compressed by the nut and so spreads and fills the void and makes a tights seal around the stopcock shaft.
Thanks for the video, you've saved me a call to an emergency plumber. I'll need to get the stopcock replaced but the temporary fix has worked well for now.
Awesome! Thanks i've been living with a stupid leaking pipe for over 14 years each time i tighten the nut, as British GAs have done THIS everytime i called them out.
An ‘o’ ring that is a snug fit to the shaft and lubricated with silicone grease works well. Putting PTFE tape on the retaining nut threads ensures a complete seal
These are the kind of things you need to learn when you buy a house or a car. Great vid. Just followed instruction today and will monitor the leak and let you know how i get on. Cheers
Find the mains water authority stop tap in the street or on the driveway and turn it off there. If this too is seized up, then the water authority need to come and fix it. That is if you can actually locate the mwast! Sometimes hard landscapers pave over them on driveways. (Rolls eyes!) Beware of shared stop taps and irate neighbours though. Looks like this one comes in on mdpe and as such the water authority tap is not shared.
Unfortunately I had a 750kg bulk bag of ballast on the main valve outside the house so couldn't isolate the rising main. That'll teach me to have building materials delivered when at work.
TK42138 I mean the isolation valve you worked in here I worked on mine. I just closed the valve and tightened the gland and stopped the leak ( opened the valve back up obv )
I’ve got a leak which my wife’s told me about this morning after I got to work. Had her turn the tap off over the weekend so I could put on a new garden tap. I’m hoping this works for me and it’s the gland issue. But why did u have to stop the rising main valve to tighten the gland
@@spiverine I had to use PTFE tape as the gland seal was getting tired. Since I couldn't isolate the rising main from water meter, I had to carry out emergency repair. There was a bulk bag of ballast on the water meter access point so couldn't turn off water to replace the stopcock. Tightening the gland seal will work up to a point but over the years they get hard and can crumble so there comes a point where tightening will no longer work - hence use of PTFE tape.
I ended up calling out Cambridgeshire Water and they managed to shut off the water meter main valve after a bit of effort. Hadn't been touched since early 2000's.
I need a tap (and screw) to fit on to the end shown at 4:07 in this video. The end bit is about 6 mm x 9 mm, is this standard? Could I buy any stopcock piece, unscrew the tap handle and attach it to mine? Thank you.
Absolutely - water has a habit of travelling quite some distance from the source of the leak over time and if any kitchen units are the type that rest directly on the floor, the chipboard soaks up the water and swells and are basically ruined.
In my example, the gland seal had gone hard and just tightening the nut didn't stop the dripping so had to add the PTFE tape as an emergency repair. At the time I couldn't replace the stopcock or use pipe freezing kit because the mains supply to the house couldn't be accessed.
We have a leak in a similar place on our stopcock. If we were to invite a plumber to replace the whole section, rather than patch it up, would the plumber be able to turn the water off from the mains on our front drive to do that? Or is it something that someone from the water board would have to do themselves?
Plumber should be able to turn the water off. If your property is supplied via a water meter then there will be a main valve/stopcock on the water meter and the meter will be located on your property boundary. Worth noting you are allowed to turn off your own supply and it's useful to know where it is - just in case the house stopcock needs work. If the water meter valve is seized up and the plumber can't or won't touch it then contact your water company for example 'Anglia Water' as even though the meter will be on your property, they are responsible for the actual function of the meter, the valve and the supply pipe To the meter. Everything after the water meter to the property is your responsibility.
At the time it was a bit of a nightmare. I couldn't separate the main valve body or isolate the stopcock or even access the water main stop valve on the meter due to bulk bag of ballast sitting on the access cover. Couldn't even get a freeze kit on the pipe from where it poked through under the unit.
I’ve got this issue but it’s still leaking when the tap is closed. Can’t get access to the mains outside to shut the feed off, so am I fine to do this method under these circumstances? Thanks
Hi, you mentioned roughing pipe end before using push fittings. I've never heard that one before except on chrome pipe, as it is harder for the grab ring to bite into. How would this help stop a fitting blowing off?
New copper pipe tends to have a shiny smooth surface which makes it harder for pushfits to grip if there is good water pressure behind the fitting. The surface only needs a light sanding before using pushfits or speedfit.
I have a weird problem i have turned off the three stop cocks in my house and turned on all my tap to get the excess water away but my bath mixer tap is still dribbling water from the cold tap and the cold tap from my bathroom sink and kitchen sink have no water dribbling out of them any ideas
It may be the bath cold feed isn't from rising main but fed from cold tank in the loft. If so, perhaps stop valve from cold tank to bath tap hasn't fully seated?
I was describing what happened when we booked a local plumber to fit a new sink and taps and he used pushfits on shiny copper pipe. The pushfits failed to bite on the pipe and few days later the cold feed let go causing the kitchen to flood. I don't like pushfits and certainly not on systems with good water pressure.
Hi TK, great video and I'm going to try this tomorrow as we have exactly the same leak! One thing I wondered being a multitool fan, were you using a Leatherman Rebar in this video? If so is it any good? Specifically if the plier cutters are good as I've used some before that jam up being bypass cutters 👍🏻
Hi, the Leatherman is a 'Super Tool' original from mid 90's. Owned since new. Has proved its worth countless times. The stopcock as seen in the video is in a really awkward position due to proximity to walls of the kitchen unit which meant I couldn't get the old gland seal out. At some point I will need to replace it but I'll have to make sure the main stop valve at the water meter can be turned off.
@James Busby We had similar problem with a new bathroom - new with eco type dual flush toilet and the fill valve split due to water pressure. Regarding WD40 - definitely not advised for rubber seals - My background is automotive and WD40 was frowned on (along with Copper grease). Red rubber grease or similar rubber/plastic safe products were used.
Certainly sounds like a stopvalve from your description. Can you see where the pipe goes to? Remote stopcock or stop valves can be push button on the valve itself but there's also the type that have a separate remote push switch usually mounted somewhere in the sink cupboard and a tube linking the actual valve.
@@HereIsWhatISaw It looks like it could be a stopcock but I've not seen a speedfit type plastic valve used before. Only one way to find out. Put cold tap on and turn the valve slowly and see if flow starts reducing.
@@HereIsWhatISaw I think you have to press the red button before the valve can be turned. I'm guessing it's an interlock to stop the valve being knocked and turned accidentally.
Timothy Hadley There's not much room between where the rising main pipe comes through the floor and base of the sink unit. Hoping there's enough pipe to wrap freezing jacket around it.
wouldnt it be better to remove the tap where it meats with the orange disc and put a new one instead of packing it in stiffer to turn and you dont even need to take the whole assembly out good temporary fix
Mohammed Sadiq Good point however in this example, the main stopcock leading into the house from the water meter on the property was seized which meant rising main couldn't be isolated to repair the house stopcock. Not sure if a pipe freezing kit would work because the water pressure is very good.
No - but many years ago I decided to read up as much as I could on the subject and DIY in general. Did some evening classes etc and been doing my own plumbing ever since.
Hi TK. I have a stop cock where the the handle has sheared off. I’ve tried turning it with mole grips but it keeps slipping. Another problem is that the tap is about 2 feet in the ground. Is there anyway of adapting the tap so that it can be operated before its repaired permanently? Many thanks in advance
@@TK42138 Yes the full spindle is still there. It snapped right under the handle. The top of the spindle is round. Tried turning it with mole grips without success
Squirt some WD40 or preferably Plusgas where the spindle enters the tap body. Give the end of the spindle a gentle tap with a hammer (but don't go mad on it), have a tea break while the Plusgas hopefully gets to work and then try the molegrips again.
I am in a similar situation. The end of the spindle is chewed up and I suspect that it's been left in a partially shut position for years. I'll be attempting to give it a wiggle with some molegrips at the weekend. The plusgas is a good idea.
At the time I didn't have much choice. 750kg bulk bag of builders sand sitting on the access cover for the watermeter stopvalve so couldn't turn that off to change the stopcock under the sink. Moral of the story is never have building materials delivered when one isn't at home 😆
Excellent tip, thanks! Here's a tip I was given back in 1975 by the best plumber I've ever known: If you're concerned as to whether you've done a good DIY plumbing job, just place toilet tissue/paper towel under the joints you've made, and check them over the next day or two to see if they're still dry.
After a plumber in Cambridge did a job for me, I placed tissue under the fittings. Within 10 minutes the tissue was soaked. I then tightened the joints up MYSELF, and used the tissue paper to monitor MY work. Perfect!
Blue rolls better as you wil, see it very easy, usual just use finger though
I couldn't turn off the house supply and had a drip from the rising main stopcock. The drip was leaking 2 litres per hour! Nightmare! Watched your video twice and followed what you said to the letter. Problem solved in about a minute. Thank you so much. I am in your debt. 👍👍👍
Thanks, glad it helped. Happy to help people save money
1) You don't need to turn off the water before you do this. 2) You don't need to remove the handle or the packing nut although it does make it slightly easier if you can. 3) You wound the ptfe tape the wrong way. Apart from those little things, great video.
John Jones Well done - you spotted the deliberate mistake. You get full marks. 😉
I had a small leak from the exact same place as yours and after following your instructions was able to repair it! I would never have risked doing all that without seeing how it was done first, so thanks!
Just fixed my valve using your tip it worked great thank you.water stopped dripping now
You should hold the body of the stopcock with a tool when doing up the gland nut otherwise you are putting pressure on the pipe joints and you *really* don't want them to fail.
Thanks, I thought it was an excellent video, I’ve watched many videos on how to repack a stopcock gland. My outside isolator is seized, you’re the only one to confirm the gland can be replaced if the stopcock is in the closed position
What’s with all the criticism from “ professional plumbers”, not every situation is ideal with the best tools available, they’re probably pi**ed because they’re losing out on £120 “call out charges”
Thanks again
Many thanks for commenting. In an ideal world I would have replaced the complete stopcock but at the time of the video there was a 750kg bulk bags of ballast and MOT type1 sitting over the water meter stop valve outside the house.
Nice gland to work with hasn’t been rounded off and butchered by others over the years
Long time ago now, but I felt your pain and we’ve all had those kind of days!
Thanks a lot for sharing this tip, I have just repaired a stopcock, using your method, in almost the same position as the one you show. All done and dry so far!
Advice from an eighty five year
old plumber. The reason the tap was stiff to turn off. Too
much PTFE and you went
spanner happy on the gland.
It's not necessary to tighten
it down all the way.
J. Calveley..
Thanks for advice, however at the time of the video, it was an emergency repair to a very worn tap that couldn't be isolated due to seized main water meter stopcock and a 750 kg bag of builders sand dumped on it from a delivery. Originally I did try and nip up the gland nut but it still leaked hence the ptfe tape.
3 years since I made this emergency repair and it's still holding - which is just as well because it's in an awkward position to get to.
Thanks, this is amazing, so there are 2 threads, one at the base and the one you took off. Great job and a life saver.
Excellent bit of information easy to do and it works.Thankyou saved a load of greef as I do not know where the main isolator is
also when squeezing a gland nut.. it should be done when the 332 valve is halfway open. Stop cocks are much heavier brass and have a different code number and need a key to turn them off. You can buy a clamp to clamp the wavin pipe under the unit if that's what was used which it should I hope for you. But the clamps are available online and won't damage the pipe. very handy. also with the pressure u have freezing might not be an option as u need at least 8 inches of frozen pipe to be able to work on mains pipe. Gravity is different. Hope this is a help. Google wavin pipe clamps and you'll be sorted.
If you are going to freeze the pipe to facilitate dismantling the stopcock, get another new stopcock first. Take the head/guts from the body, then swap it with your in situ one. Minimal time then. As you say, you have good water pressure. I wouldn't want to be around if an ice plug failed while the old S/C was in pieces and you were working on it.
Stop cocks are usually to BS1010, your poly to copper one clearly is, it's cast on the body of the valve.
I had to change the body of a S/C live once. Never again. The flow and pressure were amazing. Mind you, it wasn't far from Hampton water works and pumping station.
Neil Crawford Cheers, I'll give that a go if it starts dripping again. The water pressure here is good too.
Thanks a million - the video was super helpful - followed the instructions - and looking good so far + I had switched off the mains water supply outside the house at the end of the driveway beforehand. Funnily enough I noticed LochSween's comment in the video comments about leaving kitchen towel underneath the tightened nut/joint to check the work for any additional leaks, had done this already but love the tip.
Just fixed my stopcock leak following your video step-by-step! - cheers 👍
Take 2 foot of ptfe roll it on your leg intoma string grease the shaft put 6 turns around the shaft push the gland in to pack after 3 turns turns should be clockwise carefully replace the gland without cross threadding this will also cut the tape off
Maybe a couple of wraps of PTFE on the gland thread as well. Cool vid.
No
I use string covered with Boss White jointing compound, but its the same practice and thanks for a good video with sound advice
very nice job,great information,feel confident to do this job now
Just ensure any PTFE tape is wrapped clockwise around the threads so it doesn't get snagged as the gland nut is tightened. I did this in a rush and wrapped it the wrong way. Still worked though.
going the wrong direction with the PTFE. always go same direction as the way u are threading.
good idea anyways.
Well its been over 2 weeks and still no leak for me with these tips..
Fingers crossed it lasts for years to come .
Just fixed a leaking tap in my attic ..many thanks to you
Thanks for the video. I'm going to give this a go today. Unfortunately mine doesn't have a screw on the end so I'll try and find a way around it.
seems like you wrapped the ptfe wrong way round
Laurence Feeney I'm glad you noticed that...ahem.
Laurence Feeney you goon ptfe will stop it until late you work it again.Try hemp much much better.
Glen Stevens is hemp allowed on mains water?
Hemp isn't allowed on potable water services. It's organic and can harbour bacteria, likewise with boss/hawk white which have linseed oil in them. Hence PTFE (plumbers tape for everything!) tape and liquid, or Boss Blue.
Still okay to use Boss White and hemp on heating connections.
That joint will be fine. I've used PTFE string (tape I've twisted betweem my fingers) on packing glands. Holds fine, and never removed the old packing material first. It's only a wadding that's being compressed by the nut and so spreads and fills the void and makes a tights seal around the stopcock shaft.
@@neilcrawford8303 At last, someone who know what he is talking about.
You sir are a star, we woke up this morning to find this very problem xxx
Thanks for the video, you've saved me a call to an emergency plumber. I'll need to get the stopcock replaced but the temporary fix has worked well for now.
Thanks, glad it helped.
Awesome! Thanks i've been living with a stupid leaking pipe for over 14 years each time i tighten the nut, as British GAs have done THIS everytime i called them out.
An ‘o’ ring that is a snug fit to the shaft and lubricated with silicone grease works well. Putting PTFE tape on the retaining nut threads ensures a complete seal
joseph prosser Good idea.
also I use a fiber washer. lasts for years. 8 so far
hello
thanks for video ,could you do some more plumbing related common repairs in situ to keep them real
Nasir Khalil Will do. Have noticed the kitchen sink mono tap leaking so I will be videoing the process of removing the seals as soon as I can.
Cool✌
I think this was a fantastic piece of advise. Helped me no end. Many thanks
These are the kind of things you need to learn when you buy a house or a car.
Great vid.
Just followed instruction today and will monitor the leak and let you know how i get on.
Cheers
i havent got a stop cock like that on my car
you only have to losen off the nut & pack out once done spray with WD40
Thanks very much for this video, we had a really slow, slow weep on that valve and I had no idea how to fix it until I saw this. Star.
My neighbor filled the shared stop cock pit in. And now grows rhubarb over it.
I LIKE this idea! 👍
Find the mains water authority stop tap in the street or on the driveway and turn it off there. If this too is seized up, then the water authority need to come and fix it. That is if you can actually locate the mwast! Sometimes hard landscapers pave over them on driveways. (Rolls eyes!) Beware of shared stop taps and irate neighbours though. Looks like this one comes in on mdpe and as such the water authority tap is not shared.
An example of this idiocy first minute of this video.ua-cam.com/video/6oHNkhHyDZg/v-deo.html
+loafer sheffield Luckily my one isn't shared but it does currently have 3/4 ton bag of ballast sitting over the cover. Typical.
Sods law.. typical.. sounds about right! (LOL) Thanks for subscribing btw.
Isn't there a similar size rubber washer to do the job?
Yes but I didn't have one at the time.
Great video. 👍
Thanks. Unfortunately the shelf didn't slide out as it was glued and screwed together by the kitchen fitters when it was built.
Good tip when you turned it off was to count how many turns it took,then same when you put back on
With stopcocks and similar valves, I open them fully then back it off a half turn to prevent seat getting stuck in position.
Works a treat. Thanks for posting the video.
I closed my rising main valve - tap. Tightened the gland and all sorted :) job a gooden
Unfortunately I had a 750kg bulk bag of ballast on the main valve outside the house so couldn't isolate the rising main. That'll teach me to have building materials delivered when at work.
TK42138 I mean the isolation valve you worked in here I worked on mine. I just closed the valve and tightened the gland and stopped the leak ( opened the valve back up obv )
I’ve got a leak which my wife’s told me about this morning after I got to work.
Had her turn the tap off over the weekend so I could put on a new garden tap.
I’m hoping this works for me and it’s the gland issue.
But why did u have to stop the rising main valve to tighten the gland
John Kilcoyne so all u did was stop that tap and then tighten the gland
@@spiverine I had to use PTFE tape as the gland seal was getting tired. Since I couldn't isolate the rising main from water meter, I had to carry out emergency repair. There was a bulk bag of ballast on the water meter access point so couldn't turn off water to replace the stopcock. Tightening the gland seal will work up to a point but over the years they get hard and can crumble so there comes a point where tightening will no longer work - hence use of PTFE tape.
If you turn it off outside you may be able to put a new internal in the old body adepending on age
I ended up calling out Cambridgeshire Water and they managed to shut off the water meter main valve after a bit of effort. Hadn't been touched since early 2000's.
I have the same problem, I'll try this and give a feedback
Whata the feedback
I need a tap (and screw) to fit on to the end shown at 4:07 in this video. The end bit is about 6 mm x 9 mm, is this standard? Could I buy any stopcock piece, unscrew the tap handle and attach it to mine? Thank you.
Should be a standard fit.
Very helpful. I’ll be trying this soon. Thanks.
If you don't know you have a leak like this and it's left unfixed the damage it can cause if considerable.
Absolutely - water has a habit of travelling quite some distance from the source of the leak over time and if any kitchen units are the type that rest directly on the floor, the chipboard soaks up the water and swells and are basically ruined.
Ptfe is supposed to be put on clockwise
Well done, you spotted the deliberate mistake. 😉
I didn't understanding very the video, what I do is just tight the nut and the leak stop, done that hundreds of times and worked every time .
In my example, the gland seal had gone hard and just tightening the nut didn't stop the dripping so had to add the PTFE tape as an emergency repair. At the time I couldn't replace the stopcock or use pipe freezing kit because the mains supply to the house couldn't be accessed.
TK42138 thanks
We have a leak in a similar place on our stopcock. If we were to invite a plumber to replace the whole section, rather than patch it up, would the plumber be able to turn the water off from the mains on our front drive to do that? Or is it something that someone from the water board would have to do themselves?
Plumber should be able to turn the water off. If your property is supplied via a water meter then there will be a main valve/stopcock on the water meter and the meter will be located on your property boundary. Worth noting you are allowed to turn off your own supply and it's useful to know where it is - just in case the house stopcock needs work. If the water meter valve is seized up and the plumber can't or won't touch it then contact your water company for example 'Anglia Water' as even though the meter will be on your property, they are responsible for the actual function of the meter, the valve and the supply pipe To the meter. Everything after the water meter to the property is your responsibility.
Thank you for your advice, followed your instructions job done😀
MyTimken Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
You don't actually need to remove the end part for the tap. I couldn't anyway due to dam waste pipe
At the time it was a bit of a nightmare. I couldn't separate the main valve body or isolate the stopcock or even access the water main stop valve on the meter due to bulk bag of ballast sitting on the access cover. Couldn't even get a freeze kit on the pipe from where it poked through under the unit.
Why did you not put the ptfe tape round the gland nut threads as i seen plumbers do all you did was rap it around the shaft !!!
Because it was leaking from the tap stem where it passes through the hollow gland nut - not the actual threads.
I’ve got this issue but it’s still leaking when the tap is closed. Can’t get access to the mains outside to shut the feed off, so am I fine to do this method under these circumstances? Thanks
Yes but it's still classed as a temporary repair until either the tap or gland seal is replaced. Don't over-tighten the seal nut as it's brass.
These things really are the proverbial pain in the arse, especially in hard water areas.
Our water seems to have increased in hardness over the last few years too.
Worked for me today Thanks 👍
Hi, you mentioned roughing pipe end before using push fittings. I've never heard that one before except on chrome pipe, as it is harder for the grab ring to bite into.
How would this help stop a fitting blowing off?
New copper pipe tends to have a shiny smooth surface which makes it harder for pushfits to grip if there is good water pressure behind the fitting. The surface only needs a light sanding before using pushfits or speedfit.
I have a weird problem i have turned off the three stop cocks in my house and turned on all my tap to get the excess water away but my bath mixer tap is still dribbling water from the cold tap and the cold tap from my bathroom sink and kitchen sink have no water dribbling out of them any ideas
It may be the bath cold feed isn't from rising main but fed from cold tank in the loft. If so, perhaps stop valve from cold tank to bath tap hasn't fully seated?
Rough up the end of the pipe, what are you on about?
I was describing what happened when we booked a local plumber to fit a new sink and taps and he used pushfits on shiny copper pipe. The pushfits failed to bite on the pipe and few days later the cold feed let go causing the kitchen to flood. I don't like pushfits and certainly not on systems with good water pressure.
Hi TK, great video and I'm going to try this tomorrow as we have exactly the same leak! One thing I wondered being a multitool fan, were you using a Leatherman Rebar in this video? If so is it any good? Specifically if the plier cutters are good as I've used some before that jam up being bypass cutters 👍🏻
Hi, the Leatherman is a 'Super Tool' original from mid 90's. Owned since new. Has proved its worth countless times. The stopcock as seen in the video is in a really awkward position due to proximity to walls of the kitchen unit which meant I couldn't get the old gland seal out. At some point I will need to replace it but I'll have to make sure the main stop valve at the water meter can be turned off.
You can isolate it from outside drive.
Funny you mention that, I just opened the cover to the water meter and the main isolating valve won't budge. Probably not been turned since '99.
not when you live in a flat
Our water pressure is like a fire hydrant. 😆
@James Busby We had similar problem with a new bathroom - new with eco type dual flush toilet and the fill valve split due to water pressure.
Regarding WD40 - definitely not advised for rubber seals - My background is automotive and WD40 was frowned on (along with Copper grease). Red rubber grease or similar rubber/plastic safe products were used.
surely winding on the wrong way?
Yes, guilty as charged 😆
I have a blue plastic tap with a red button on it, in a cupboard near my kitchen sink.
Is it a stopcock and what's the red button for?
Certainly sounds like a stopvalve from your description. Can you see where the pipe goes to? Remote stopcock or stop valves can be push button on the valve itself but there's also the type that have a separate remote push switch usually mounted somewhere in the sink cupboard and a tube linking the actual valve.
Hi, thanks for the reply,
Here is a link
ua-cam.com/video/rhhGv1m9Al8/v-deo.html
@@HereIsWhatISaw It looks like it could be a stopcock but I've not seen a speedfit type plastic valve used before. Only one way to find out. Put cold tap on and turn the valve slowly and see if flow starts reducing.
@@TK42138 Thanks, I will try that on Friday (day off in case I need to call emergency plumber).
In the meantime, what might the red button be for?
@@HereIsWhatISaw I think you have to press the red button before the valve can be turned. I'm guessing it's an interlock to stop the valve being knocked and turned accidentally.
Freeze it with a kit and replace it with a freezing kit. Then replace the valve completely.
Timothy Hadley There's not much room between where the rising main pipe comes through the floor and base of the sink unit. Hoping there's enough pipe to wrap freezing jacket around it.
Put the ptfe clockwise.
Well spotted. 👍
I did this trick works a treat cheers
wouldnt it be better to remove the tap where it meats with the orange disc and put a new one instead of packing it in stiffer to turn and you dont even need to take the whole assembly out good temporary fix
Mohammed Sadiq Good point however in this example, the main stopcock leading into the house from the water meter on the property was seized which meant rising main couldn't be isolated to repair the house stopcock. Not sure if a pipe freezing kit would work because the water pressure is very good.
emigrate Your right mate .Hemp every time and it lasts forever not like ptfe that goes loose and works its way out only to leak again.
Infinity vidz help the helpless 9
great video.
Life saver thank you :)
ah ok, thought you were a plumber!
No - but many years ago I decided to read up as much as I could on the subject and DIY in general. Did some evening classes etc and been doing my own plumbing ever since.
Thank you
Hi TK. I have a stop cock where the the handle has sheared off. I’ve tried turning it with mole grips but it keeps slipping. Another problem is that the tap is about 2 feet in the ground. Is there anyway of adapting the tap so that it can be operated before its repaired permanently? Many thanks in advance
Does the sheared end still have enough of the spindle to fit another handle on it or did it shear because it's utterly seized up?
@@TK42138 Yes the full spindle is still there. It snapped right under the handle. The top of the spindle is round. Tried turning it with mole grips without success
Squirt some WD40 or preferably Plusgas where the spindle enters the tap body. Give the end of the spindle a gentle tap with a hammer (but don't go mad on it), have a tea break while the Plusgas hopefully gets to work and then try the molegrips again.
I am in a similar situation. The end of the spindle is chewed up and I suspect that it's been left in a partially shut position for years. I'll be attempting to give it a wiggle with some molegrips at the weekend. The plusgas is a good idea.
Good luck.
excellent
Good luck
Can't see nothing with that tissue in the way
Just wrap a tee towel around it….
+Jim Dandy 😁
John Wayne school of plumbing
At the time I didn't have much choice. 750kg bulk bag of builders sand sitting on the access cover for the watermeter stopvalve so couldn't turn that off to change the stopcock under the sink. Moral of the story is never have building materials delivered when one isn't at home 😆
You hid the procedure as you were doing it.
+Patrick Foley Bit tight for space in the cupboard to get everything in shot.
Get yourself some decent tools
Got decent tools but this was an emergency repair and wanted to use whatever was to hand.
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