It depends, I always replace ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, A-arms even sway bars and so on If you're going with bigger wheels and tires it has to be done, no question. Factory parts can't withstand the stress put on them My rule of thumb is to replace any factory parts when you lift a truck. You don't have to do it all at once, but do it before you start to have problems.
Rebuilding as much of the front end on my 2000 silverado 1500 as I can with the Kryptonite stuff. I've just done the sway bar links so far, but if the tie rods and UCAs are anything like those, then they are STOUT. Pretty pricey, but hard to complain too much with the apparent quality and a warranty that says "if you jump your truck and break it, we'll replace it".
Unfortunately they don't stand by it. My buddy got the whole jryptonite lift for his chevy. Had it professionally installed and aligned. He hit a ditch 7 months later and bent the uca. They did not replace it.
I have the cheap Rough Country 2.5" kit. Should I be concerned about my factory parts failing? I've already had to adjust the camber on my right side wheel after having the lift kit installed.
it'll be more wear and tear on your transmission and engine and your drive shaft as well, and other components, yes it's a bad investment it does do a lot of changes to the geometry your drive shaft shouldn't be angled either. It's sorta not a good idea, I just think leveling kits are the way to go.
Honestly, people here in the midwest say it differently depending on how it's used. Like we'll say OregAHn Trail and then we'll say we have family that lives in OrigUHn.
these videos are great. I am getting a truck soon and these videos tell me what I should I get lift wise. And this video had some great advice and parts that I am going to use.
Speaking of Kryptonite, Their tie rod ends dont work on 14+ gm bds, but I assume more brands, 6" lifts. I emailed them asking if trimming them to force them to work is an okay thing to do, and they said no. BUT, would their upper control arms work? That Is the question
I have a 8” bds lift and kryptonite upper control arms. You may have to drill out the lift knuckle alittle. But kryptonite even says in the instructions that may be needed. But it does fit.
@@PharaohsCursex I was running -44 with 37’s and was fine, but my ride is so much better now with the kryptonite uppers. I’m also at 10” lift now and getting 26x14’s -80 in the spring. I have kryptonite wheel bearings and inner tie rods
I don't think any lift kit, cheap or high end, will ever get the suspension and steering geometry like the engineers originally designed it and the higher center of gravity doesn't help anything. So lifts to me offer nothing other than looks unless you REALLY need the extra clearance for big tires. My super duty work truck will always be stock height but my 94 exploder is lifted for the mountains and beach. It rides smooth at 75, but still has an insane amount of body roll compared to stock with 6" coils plus spring spacers and the rear leafs converted to sit on top of the axle instead of under where they are most stable. There's no keeping the stock geometry with that big of a change in the rear end. The geometry is close to stock in the front end but the adjustable camber shims are maxed out and there's added tension on the steering box even with a 6" drop arm, causing the occassial power steering fluid drip. The steering is tough to get right on old fords but you definitely get used to the weird handling.
Yeah it's not essential, i was told i need a lift kit, but here in nz i've done SO much fun stuff that everyone else does in their 2" trucks, you just have to know when and when not to enter into a really hectic big rutty trail, which hasn't happened much, my prado 90 has quite a bit of clearance stock and handles so well!
Yeah it's not essential, i was told i need a lift kit, but here in nz i've done SO much fun stuff that everyone else does in their 2" trucks, you just have to know when and when not to enter into a really hectic big rutty trail, which hasn't happened much, my prado 90 has quite a bit of clearance stock and handles so well!
IDK, man. I am on the fence. My truck is stock height atm. I always see the dudes with lifted trucks on the Silverado forum bxtchn about having to road force balance their wheels multiple times and asking about new drive shafts because their truck started shaking like a mofo after lifting and stuffing larger wheels/tires.
Did they have split drive shafts, did they and carrier bearing spacers if so? That seems to be the most common problem when people lift trucks they order the kit and don’t read the fine print. My dads old boss had a lift installed by a dealer and he was telling me he had to take it back because it had a lot of vibrations. Me owning and lifting the same model truck I looked under it went and got the extra bearing spacer I had and 6:43 installed it and the vibration was gone.
And what about added stress to your drive shaft, steering and transmission? Unless you absolutely need to lift for driving condition reasons, lifting your truck is a stupid waste of money and will ultimately cause more unnecessary damage to other factory components.
If you go more than 2 inches of lift then you'll need some extra engineering which will be more costlier. You can even do a 2 inch lift to sedans, crossovers and even a van.
I wanted to see if kryptonite had anything for the Dakota's and nothing, only 1 level lift from rough country. Need to get the Dakota's back on the map
In all honesty, I think in most cases a lift kit has a negative effect on your car. Due to the added weight from larger tires, vibration from off road tires. A generalization but it’s somewhat true.
I guess depends how big you go. I'm on 6" with 33s until I get 35s and I'm on 14.5 MPH right now. But when I do get my 35s I'm sure it won't be much of a difference.
@TSU.Cameron that's cool! 💯 yeah I'm debating on 35s or 37s rn but I think 35s honestly will be my best bet 👍 👌 Do u feel the height increase with the bigger tire? 🤔 like when u first step in the truck.
But we’re did they stop at factory on how much abuse your truck can take, I mean exactly what damage does big tires do, on factory components, how much abuse does one’s truck take because of drive shaft angle, I think if there’s any damage it’s due to the trash factory components are. So up grade as much as you can
If you dont spend the 10k or more to lift it right and overhaul every segment of the suspension system, why bother.? its going to fuck something up. ESPECIALLY, if your truck is still under manufacturer warranty, theres no way in hell. Read reviews on RC’s leveling struts. That shit is garbage. Not to mention the guys that add spacers only to the front end. They ride like shit just after a year of only concrete driving . Its just my opinion…if only for the looks of a front level, don’t waste your money.
If you're referencing the 3/4ton and up, I highly recommend Thuren fab or something along those lines. As for the 1500's I haven't heard anyone really tearing up the control arms or steering linkages....
@@CustomOffsetsTV yeah I got my lift wheels and tire done last year got em from you guys for my 2016 ram 1500. Went with rough country an am looking to upgrade my upper control arms in the future
It depends, I always replace ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, A-arms even sway bars and so on
If you're going with bigger wheels and tires it has to be done, no question. Factory parts can't withstand the stress put on them
My rule of thumb is to replace any factory parts when you lift a truck. You don't have to do it all at once, but do it before you start to have problems.
Arguably the best advice ever. Cause it’s what I did with the cummins!
Rebuilding as much of the front end on my 2000 silverado 1500 as I can with the Kryptonite stuff. I've just done the sway bar links so far, but if the tie rods and UCAs are anything like those, then they are STOUT. Pretty pricey, but hard to complain too much with the apparent quality and a warranty that says "if you jump your truck and break it, we'll replace it".
You aren’t wrong
Unfortunately they don't stand by it. My buddy got the whole jryptonite lift for his chevy. Had it professionally installed and aligned.
He hit a ditch 7 months later and bent the uca.
They did not replace it.
Love ❤️ this want See more about suspension geometry and how it works thank you
If you've already lifted your truck, reinforce your build with Kryptonite products:bit.ly/3B7t67D
I have the cheap Rough Country 2.5" kit. Should I be concerned about my factory parts failing? I've already had to adjust the camber on my right side wheel after having the lift kit installed.
……. That’s all you had to adjust? Do you not realize what a lift kit does to your alignment? That lift kit better have had alignment specs
@@notbho I did have it aligned after it was installed. I meant that later on the camber needed adjusted and so far that's the only problem I've had
Hit a big enough pothole, etc it can self adjust, hell a lazy alignment mechanic even that’s not common for the course. But not uncommon
it'll be more wear and tear on your transmission and engine and your drive shaft as well, and other components, yes it's a bad investment it does do a lot of changes to the geometry your drive shaft shouldn't be angled either. It's sorta not a good idea, I just think leveling kits are the way to go.
The way Dustin said Oregon wrong is almost impressive. Much love from the PNW
Honestly, people here in the midwest say it differently depending on how it's used. Like we'll say OregAHn Trail and then we'll say we have family that lives in OrigUHn.
That’s the truest thing I’ve read all day
these videos are great. I am getting a truck soon and these videos tell me what I should I get lift wise. And this video had some great advice and parts that I am going to use.
What truck you getting???
@@SoreTv Chevy Silverado, murdered out black with a 4 inch lift with 35" 14 wide tires
Y’all should do the video of which gen GMC Sierra is the best
Will I get a drive shaft vibration on my 2019 f150 4x4 reg cab short bed if I lift it 6in?
If installed correctly shouldnt have any vibration
Speaking of Kryptonite, Their tie rod ends dont work on 14+ gm bds, but I assume more brands, 6" lifts. I emailed them asking if trimming them to force them to work is an okay thing to do, and they said no. BUT, would their upper control arms work? That Is the question
I have a 8” bds lift and kryptonite upper control arms. You may have to drill out the lift knuckle alittle. But kryptonite even says in the instructions that may be needed. But it does fit.
I think croom answered it for you 😎
@@croomrider9785 that is good to know. Kinda freaks me out a little running -44s and 35s on the stock ucas
@@PharaohsCursex I was running -44 with 37’s and was fine, but my ride is so much better now with the kryptonite uppers. I’m also at 10” lift now and getting 26x14’s -80 in the spring. I have kryptonite wheel bearings and inner tie rods
I have a 10” bds lift, and kryptonite control arms and they are completely flat, my angles are perfect🤣
Bet you can’t go faster than 80mph 😂
I loved Oregan Trail! I probably just gave away my age.. Good vid by the way!
I'm about to do a level and change my rear suspension. Not going crazy with it. I'm never gonna off road with it
I don't think any lift kit, cheap or high end, will ever get the suspension and steering geometry like the engineers originally designed it and the higher center of gravity doesn't help anything. So lifts to me offer nothing other than looks unless you REALLY need the extra clearance for big tires. My super duty work truck will always be stock height but my 94 exploder is lifted for the mountains and beach. It rides smooth at 75, but still has an insane amount of body roll compared to stock with 6" coils plus spring spacers and the rear leafs converted to sit on top of the axle instead of under where they are most stable. There's no keeping the stock geometry with that big of a change in the rear end. The geometry is close to stock in the front end but the adjustable camber shims are maxed out and there's added tension on the steering box even with a 6" drop arm, causing the occassial power steering fluid drip. The steering is tough to get right on old fords but you definitely get used to the weird handling.
Yeah it's not essential, i was told i need a lift kit, but here in nz i've done SO much fun stuff that everyone else does in their 2" trucks, you just have to know when and when not to enter into a really hectic big rutty trail, which hasn't happened much, my prado 90 has quite a bit of clearance stock and handles so well!
Yeah it's not essential, i was told i need a lift kit, but here in nz i've done SO much fun stuff that everyone else does in their 2" trucks, you just have to know when and when not to enter into a really hectic big rutty trail, which hasn't happened much, my prado 90 has quite a bit of clearance stock and handles so well!
IDK, man. I am on the fence. My truck is stock height atm. I always see the dudes with lifted trucks on the Silverado forum bxtchn about having to road force balance their wheels multiple times and asking about new drive shafts because their truck started shaking like a mofo after lifting and stuffing larger wheels/tires.
General maintenance would alleviate that, very rarely do we have any issues after a build is done
Did they have split drive shafts, did they and carrier bearing spacers if so? That seems to be the most common problem when people lift trucks they order the kit and don’t read the fine print. My dads old boss had a lift installed by a dealer and he was telling me he had to take it back because it had a lot of vibrations. Me owning and lifting the same model truck I looked under it went and got the extra bearing spacer I had and 6:43 installed it and the vibration was gone.
And what about added stress to your drive shaft, steering and transmission? Unless you absolutely need to lift for driving condition reasons, lifting your truck is a stupid waste of money and will ultimately cause more unnecessary damage to other factory components.
If you go more than 2 inches of lift then you'll need some extra engineering which will be more costlier. You can even do a 2 inch lift to sedans, crossovers and even a van.
My guess is it was either improperly installed, or it was used outside of its intended operational range
BDS ALL DAY BABY!!!!! 😎
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
just got my 6inch lift from y’all🙏😁 time for powder coat
Can’t wait to see it when done!
I wanted to see if kryptonite had anything for the Dakota's and nothing, only 1 level lift from rough country. Need to get the Dakota's back on the map
With them not being new anymore it’ll be hard
In all honesty, I think in most cases a lift kit has a negative effect on your car. Due to the added weight from larger tires, vibration from off road tires. A generalization but it’s somewhat true.
I guess depends how big you go. I'm on 6" with 33s until I get 35s and I'm on 14.5 MPH right now. But when I do get my 35s I'm sure it won't be much of a difference.
Yes ya just hafta see if it’s what ya need my Chevy plows through 20inches of snow whereas when stock I’d need a tow truck
@TSU.Cameron that's cool! 💯 yeah I'm debating on 35s or 37s rn but I think 35s honestly will be my best bet 👍 👌
Do u feel the height increase with the bigger tire? 🤔 like when u first step in the truck.
But we’re did they stop at factory on how much abuse your truck can take, I mean exactly what damage does big tires do, on factory components, how much abuse does one’s truck take because of drive shaft angle, I think if there’s any damage it’s due to the trash factory components are. So up grade as much as you can
If you dont spend the 10k or more to lift it right and overhaul every segment of the suspension system, why bother.? its going to fuck something up. ESPECIALLY, if your truck is still under manufacturer warranty, theres no way in hell. Read reviews on RC’s leveling struts. That shit is garbage. Not to mention the guys that add spacers only to the front end. They ride like shit just after a year of only concrete driving . Its just my opinion…if only for the looks of a front level, don’t waste your money.
I’ve never been this early
Ope first time for everything!
Shit me either 🤣
That's why it's only 11 comments. Didn't notice how early until I read your comment. Lol!! 12 now.
Can you change out your front suspension with Kryptonite before you lift your truck??
Yes
This was a sales pitch period
Lifting my Excursion is easier than most modern trucks, it has a leaf sprung straight axle up front, as well as in the rear.
Short answer is Yes
lift kit?: ball joints, tie rods & wheel bearings ✔️
👍👍
Day 146 of asking co for black and milled davincis
But Kryptonite don't sell shit for Nissian Titans. whats up with that
For a second i thought i was watching a video from fitment industrys
Well we are the same team!
I have
Hi guy.
We want Sean back on the vids
👋🏽
Sadly kryptonite doesn't make anything for a Ram
If you're referencing the 3/4ton and up, I highly recommend Thuren fab or something along those lines. As for the 1500's I haven't heard anyone really tearing up the control arms or steering linkages....
@@CustomOffsetsTV yeah I got my lift wheels and tire done last year got em from you guys for my 2016 ram 1500. Went with rough country an am looking to upgrade my upper control arms in the future
W
Its not orgon its or gen
A lift kit will only ruin your truck if it's not installed correctly.
That could be said for anything improperly installed lol
@@CustomOffsetsTV true lol
Day 106 of asking custom offsets for a company dually truck build
Can't believe you pronounced oregon like that 🤣
Hey now how do you pronounce oconomowoc
I want to see the job when you guys do that lift, too much talk... ✌️
Level kits suck!!!!!
Kryptonite doesn’t have Jack shit for the only real new truck being sold now. The naturally aspirated, only true V8 on the market now, Titan. Lame