How to install a GFCI Breaker for electric brewing | 30 Amp Square D Homeline GFCI Breaker
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Safety first! You need to have a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) between you and the breaker box. I'll show you how I installed mine in my Square D Homeline breaker box.
Find us on Social media
FB - Facebook.com/shortcircuitedbrewers
Instagram - @shortcircuitedbrewer
Twitter - @shortcircuitbru
Reddit - shortcircuitedbrewer
Support our channel by purchasing a t-shirt or sticker: www.shortcircu...
If you find value in our content, please consider shopping for all of your home brewing needs using our affiliate links below. It does not cost you a cent more and it helps us bring you more quality content. Thank you for your support! -Brian
Morebeer:
goo.gl/wkSI4L
Adventures in Homebrewing:
goo.gl/u3NCMc
Great Fermentations
goo.gl/FPb7Zy
Brew Hardware:
goo.gl/Q27Vso
Williams Brewing:
goo.gl/ZJqxaR
One important note is that you CAN STILL GET SHOCKED WITH THE MAIN BREAKER OFF. It won't happen anywhere except where the main comes into the panel. They two large wires that are connected to that main breaker that turns off the rest of the panel. That can and will kill you. Just thought it was important to point that out.
Yeah that is correct. Do not grab the big wires coming in!!! Above the main they are still live! 👍🍻
Fencer04 you will be safe if your house is wired with the main power breaker is outside next to the power meter....as my house. I have a 150 amp main breaker installed that feeds my main panel in my garage.
Why 6/3. Seems a bit much for a 30 amp. That’s wiring for a 50 amp
I prewired for a upgrade to 50 amps in the future should I chose to do so. Can't change the wire in the wall once it's covered up.
I was always told to pull the meter off if your working in the breaker box.
Add the wires to the breaker first..much easier,,, great video
Yes that is sound advice.. 👍🍻
Fusing that 6 wire at 30 amps is fine but why didn't you go with a 10 wire?
To be able to upgrade to a 50 amp breaker if I want to. I would have to change the plug as well but the wire is in the wall. 👍🍻
Couple of tips. NEVER use a drill driver on the screws. and Always tighten the screws as tight as you can get them. ESPECIALLY if there is any Aluminum wire. Fires start because the wire can and will heat up and it will cause it to expand and then contract when it cool. this is what causes loose connections and sparks and thus fires. Tighten them as tight as you can get them. Also the Higher loaded breakers, most electrician prefer to locate them near the top of the panel or closer to the feed lines. That is why that pigtail barely reached the Neutral buss bar. Most codes require the Ground bar and the Neutral bar to be Bonded. Even so it is not recommended to combine grounds and neutrals on the same bus bar. More of an aesthetic or professional looking deal than code.
Good tips!
There will be a torque value on the post for copper/aluminum wire. If torque isn't met you can have a loose connection which can cause the GFCI to trip. They are already sensitive as it is.
@@jayrenner665 WRONG! Nothing unsafe about aluminum wire. It is safe to use WITH the proper connectors. Copper and aluminum have different expansion coefficients meaning the expand and contract with heat and cooling differently. With outlets and switches that are made for aluminum everything is safe. With devices that are made for use with copper, everything is safe. The problem was NEVER wit aluminum wire. The same problem exists with copper wire if it is not torqued properly as it terminates in the PROPER fixture/device. As ANY wire heats up it expands and can cause a loose connection. This causes sparks which lead to fires. When you use aluminum wire with copper related devices you can have an issue with the wire expanding more than the device it engineered to handle. You comment is base on a myth and bad information. MOST service wire coming into a home is almost alway aluminum due to its cheaper cost.
Also use anti oxidation grease on aluminum connections.
do the two grounding wires go into the SAME slot on the upper left ground bar/screw slot of the panel? Ie. the white pigtail wire attached to the GFCI breaker and the BARE copper ground that comes from the romex sheath both go into the SAME grounding slot on the upper left of the panel?
#2 does it matter which outer slots the red and black wire go into? Or, it only matters that the white neutral wire go in the center of the breaker and the red and black wires can go into either side of the 30a breaker?
Yes in modern panels they do.
Thank so much I had the Neutral connected to the panel and all they had was the red and black and kept tripping
Glad it helped!!
Thanks for taking the time to make a video. Is there a part 2 on wiring the outlet?
Thanks for the video. A couple of questions. Does it have to be 4-wire for the GCIF breaker? If it does, then the other end the outlet has to be for a 4-prong plug, correct? And if it does then how can you make the adapter cord (from a previous video, don’t cut the cord) go from 4 wire outlet to a 3-wire plug?
GFCI breakers only come in a 4 wire configuration. You can run only 3 wires to your outlet with no problem. Just make sure the breaker neutral is hooked up properly.
Thanks for this video. I watched it probably a dozen times in my preparation for installing my breaker. It's one of the most concise and informative videos on the topic.
Awesome glad to hear! 👍🍻
Great vid. I’m still thinking about doing this. Good info.
Good video Brian. You may want to mention to make sure that new breaker is off when you turn on the main power. Especially if the socket at the other end of the line hasn’t been wired up yet. Cheers 🍻 love the build. Merry Christmas 🎄
I beleivevi did mention that at around 10:50 in the video. This had definitely been one of my most analyzed videos..lol I hope it brings awareness to the importance of a GFCI breaker/protection when brewing! Merry Christmas to you!! 🍻👍
You scare me. Panel is HOT above main breaker. GFCI won’t save you if you hit the mains. For max safety, kill the power coming in.
Good tip!
The only code violation here is that you cannot use NM cable coming out the bottom of the box because it is now in an "exposed work" location where you could strike the cable and possibly cause a short circuit.
What you need to use is EMT conduit or flex conduit with THHN wiring. For 6awg you would need to use a 3/4 or (even better) 1" conduit. You can run 8awg for 50A when it is installed in conduit by itself (with no other circuits in the same conduit) depending on the NEC derating rules and the temprature rating of the wire.
Good to know. It is in a closet with minimal chance of getting "struck". I think It'll be ok.
Actually, it is as scary as it looks. Just let one of those wires you take loose from any circuit breaker accidentally get away from you and bump the bussing... or the main lugs. You might get a fireworks show if you're lucky or damage the bussing... You'll end up in the hospital or dead if not. Arc-flash is real. As you said, you definitely want to be careful. Don't forget to make sure your panel screws aren't going to drive into any of the wiring in the box when you put it all back together too. Ohhh.... hate it when that happens. :o)
Good tips!! 👍🍻
Johnson Sharon Smith Linda Johnson Anna
Kind of ironic watching this on short circuited brewing
Thanks for taking the time to create and contribute your content Brain. It's always helpful and informative. Cheers!
Sure glad to contribute! You all are awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers Tom! 👍🍻
Those breakers are expensive but definitely worth it. I went with a 50amp for mine. I too am not an electrician but I've done house wiring during my life. Still very intimidating. I have the same size wire. What a bear to wrestle. I enjoyed it all. Cheers Brian!
It is rough to manage 6/3 for sure!! I am setup for a 50 amp if I ever want to go there. Cheers Wally! 👍🍻
One option is to check for a "SPA Panel" of the same brand as your main panel. Often, you can rob this GFCI and install it in the main. Worst case mount the SPA panel near the main one.
Yep.. Did that bit didn't want to go 60 amps in the panel. Or deal with an extra box. It is an option though! 👍🍻
The hands near the panel while it was hot was scary. You have a main panel outside and turned the power off there? So no power even at the top where the feed wires are connected? If not, those lugs at the top are still hot with 200+ amps - yes?
If the meter isn't pulled you are correct.
Why do you need a neutral load- side wire connected to the breaker? Does the brew equipment use 120V for something?
Yes. My controller has 120v components inside so I do use the neutral.
Amature's should have turned off the breaker before even removing the panel cover....period.
Amateur's even.
Can I use this for a dryer?
Installing the square d 50amp gfci tonight and you answered all my questions. Thanks for the video!
👍🍻
Great! Here in Sweden it’s illegal to do this your self, but good explanation Brian! We just rewired all electricity in our house (by a company) in our new brewery we changed fuses to 20 amp (240 v) so it’s works well. RCDs in the whole central. Cheers 🍻
Yeah someone else told me about the RCD breakers over there.. Too bad you can't DIY. But at least you're safe and have power!! 👍🍻
It's not illegal. The 2017 law just states that you have to be a certified electrician to do it ... The electrician, by the way, can be from any EU country more or less. I would make a deal with a local electrician ...
Btw: These restricting laws (not only in Sweden) are contra productive. It was the task of the CENELEC to provide common rules and a (free) code book (a European "NEC") for all electricians as well as DIYers, but as usual with the EU .... the opposite is the case. You have to pay for the documents the CENELEC produces (as if they were not paid by us already) and no common rules are in sight.
I actually bursted laughing when you said that beer is not worth dying for... hahaha very true
Haha!! It's true!! 👍🍻
Many thanks. 👍
Do they sell 20 amp gfci outlets, not breakers? I can't find one.
Not that vi know of. They do make 20amp inline GFCI devices though
“You wouldn’t really feel the shock” TEST TEST TEST TEST 🤣
Lol that would make a good video.. "You lick your fingers....and then grab..." Hahaha
I hooked up my breaker, and it trips as soon as I set it. I took the pigtail neutral off the buss bar, and the breaker will set. I have to assume there is a ground issue.
The line to your system is it 3 wire?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers yes
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Blichmann brew easy
@@beeroquoisnation ok so it's a 3 wire 240v where is the ground from your brewery outlet connected in the breaker box?
I cut the jacket off just like you did. SO there was 4 in the insulation. I ran the two legs and the load neutral to the breaker, and the pigtail to the buss bar. Trips. Disconnect the pigtail and it works, but it can't have any protection without being hooked to the buss bar.
Just had the hole breaker box in the house rebuilt by a local electrician. All breakers was upgraded (18x) with GFCI's. So now the hole house is protected. Expensive upgrade but it increase the value of the house as well.
Wow that is an investment. But a good one!
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yeah, but we've had 2 shorts on old floor heating cables the last 2 years so it was a no brainer. Another problem is also that a ground short in one house will spread to all the neighbors on the same area circuit. So the power company comes out and blocks the source if you don't get it fixed. With GFCI's installed it will never escape out on the main net.
Nice!
That doesn't sound right. GFCIs anywhere other than the areas with water are unnecessary, and at bare minimum the bedrooms need to use AFCI rather than GFCI for protection.
I hope you went with combined CAFCI and GFCI. WIthout the AFCI, the house is probably not up to code.
@@SmallSpoonBrigade he's in Norway..
Replaced 1hp pool pump and defect 20a gfci breaker. Q: can I use an existing 50a GFCI already sitting in the box which is unused.
Looking for a 30amp GFI Square Breaker but every store is out of stock. Wondering where I might find one.
Nope not a code violation. Its done all the time.
lol You know they armchair electricians... got to be on the look out for them..
You have a portable generator setup it looks like. I have the same 10 circuit panel. Not sure how often you loose power where you are, but those "load side" transfer switches are good to have. Main reason being is you can backup specific circuits and when the power comes back on, the ones not backed up will turn on. The other option is whats called an interlock kit. Its a bracket that uses a generator double pole feeder breaker to backfeed your panel, but prevents the main breaker from being on simultaneously. Only trouble with that setup is its hard to tell when power is restored unless you buy one of those idiot alarms that wraps around the main wires coming in, or look outside in the neighborhood.
Finally, a standby generator, or automatic standby, either uses a separate breaker panel all together next to your main panel, or has a whole house box outside that switches the house to your generator after the utility meter. I have professionally installed these myself before, BIG $$$$. Uncle has an 18KW natural gas set and it runs his entire property including garage and workshop. Had the local inspector sign off on it too for insurance purposes, also helped that my uncle is a general contractor.
Great video, I plan to do the same exact setup one day in my basement once I do some upgrades to my brew equipment. Stay safe, cheers!
Thanks man!! We do not lose power that often. At least not that I know of.. 1st year here. 👍🍻
Question - I am installing a 30 am 240v GFCI to power a 240 v Brewzilla 35L. The Brewzilla comes with a NEMA 6-30R plug which accommodates 2 hots and a ground. Thus, I won’t run a neutral load to the outlet. As I understand this will result in a single phase 220 v system vs a dual 220/110 system. Will this create any issues with operation of the Brewzilla?
No issue at all. No neutral is required for the Brewzilla.
hi im wiring a GFCI 30A breaker using 10/2 gauge wire for a 6kw Steam generator so two hots and a ground NO neutral wire the generator only required 10/2... will the GFCI function with out a neutral wire in..? and do i hook up the neutral wire that's on the GFCI to the neutral bar... will this function correctly?
It will function without the neutral. The gfci neutral needs to be hooked up to the neutral bar in the main panel.
So question, the new foundry 18, the nemo 6-20r doesn't have a nuetral wire, just the 2 hot wires and ground: does that mean i only need to connect the 2 hot wires to the gfi breaker? I feel like there's no need to connect the neutral to the breaker since it wont connect to the recepticle, right? Im still going to connect the neutral from the breaker to the neutral bar though
You need to hook up the breaker as shown or it won't function properly. And yes you only hook the 2 hotwires to the breaker. And the ground to the ground bar in the panel. 👍🍻
Need to isolate the grounds and nuetrals in your house panel....
They're both on the same bar in the breaker box. Only sub panels need isolated ground and neutrals.
Lol...be safe bro..
Will do! 👍🍻
I have an older house and the old Electric Dryer outlet is wired with 2 single pole breakers, one red hot and one black hot. Cam I replace these two with a single 2 pole like you showed?
Sure I would actually recommend it. 👍🍻
I want to use a 30 amp double pole GFCI breaker for a tankless POU 240V water heater. I'm using 10/2 gauge wire - 2 hots and a ground. Do I just not use the center screw on the breaker since I don't have a neutral or 120V control voltage? Thanks...
I'd like to see a photo of what you are talking about. Email me at brian@shortcircuitedbrewers.com so I can see it.
Brian,
Do I need a 30 amp GFCI dedicated breaker to run my anvil foundry 10.5 I will be running it on the 220.my next door neighbor who is a licensed electrician says I don't.
Thanks
no you can get away with as small as a 15amp 240V GFI breaker. HOWEVER the 30 amp is really only a couple dollars more and would let you expand if you ever wanted to. I do not have any issues with "over amperage" or anything like that with my Anvil system.
Thanks man. Thinking of upgrading. Have replaced switches, outlets, and breakers before. Info on wire type and gauge is very helpful.
Welcome!
Thanks Brian I am finally getting around to installing my breaker as well to switch to electric brewing! Just looking to figure out how to do this! Thanks again
🍻👍
I will be wiring up a 3 prong 50 amp for a welder. I’m going to use a 50 amp GFCI breaker. So what do I need to do to make sure the neutral coming from the breaker is done correctly since outlet only has places for two hots and a ground. No neutral spot. How do I wire the GFCI breaker?
Did you ever find out
I recommend a live wire circuit check tool. They are cheap insurance and I would never go into a circuit without one. Also, it’s a good idea to wear electrician gloves so you don’t get cut up. There are a myriad of sharp edges and corners in a breaker box.
All good tips! 👍🍻
The connector from your generator panel into the main doesn't seem to be installed properly. I think I can see the red and a white wire from the outside. Did you put a nut on the inside of the panel. Doesn't look like the connector goes into the panel. Nice videos.
I did not install the system but it does not have a nut on the inside it has one of the interference fit type plugs which I hate. I'll have to swap it out. Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers! 👍🍻
Hi, was wondering how to hook up anvil foundry with this configuration to a 10-30 outlet? Ty
ua-cam.com/video/0u5wq1gsxn0/v-deo.html
Question ...If I’m using this as a dedicated 240 outlet and not for 120v do I need the neutral wire?
Yes for the breaker to function properly you do. Now you don't have to have one on your circuit, but you do have to run the pigtail to your neutral bar. 👍🍻
You did not mention where the wire you ran up the bottom goes to. How does that break protect the entire panel? or is that part what you did not want to explain?
It doesn't protect the entire panel just the circuit that it powers.
I'm about to do this upgrade myself and found this great video. I happy to brew in my laundry room, and am planning to continue running the dryer off this line. Does anyone have experience running the dryer off a GFCI? I imagine it should continue to work just fine?
Should work fine. 👍🍻
Good to have a safe setup when dealing with electric brewing with all the power and wet conditions involved......Take care, Bluefin.
Definitely! 👍🍻
what type of outlet do you use for theboiler? where does the white wire from the center of the breaker hook on the outlet
4 prong dryer outlet. It hooks to the neutral lug on the outlet.
Yup.. That #6 AWG will sure hold the 30 Amps. Matter of fact, it will handle 60 Amps. I couldn't help to notice that the flex that connects your generator panel has popped out of the panel board. I hate those connectors without the locknuts. Sometimes trying to get them in knocks out the hole to a larger size. Anyways... Great video Sir. =)
Yeah I need to fix that.. It is a standby generator box. Probably will have a new system.installed and get rid if that one. Pretty archaic! Interference fit stuff is a pet peeve of mine too. Cheers man! 👍🍻
Yeah nothing wrong with using a cable that’s rated for a higher current. In fact it’s common to do so when running over a distance to reduce your voltage drop. Not sure what it is in the states but in the UK we can have 5% drop in voltage from the premises incoming cut out to the device being supplied.
Yes voltage drop is a real thing. Definitely is a good idea for long runs.. If memory serves over 100 ft it starts to drop off.
goo job king.
These are amazing, man. I’ve watched this and your in-line GFCI video. Do I only need this or that, or both?
Either or. Both are not necessary.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers appreciate it!
The only thing I see wrong with what you did was that piece of paper you have sticking out of the end of the wire. They will tag you for that. NO PAPER ALLOWED.. Nothing that will burn. So just rip it off as very best you can and the inspector will buy it. Things like that later on will tell an inspector that the work was never inspected. I get people all the time that remodel their kitchen. Do you like it? I say it was never inspected and they look at me like I just shot them. "HOW DO YOU KNOW THAT?" No outlets or improper space on the counter top. They then say well we don't want them! The unified electrical code does not give a rip of what you want! Code says it must be so. This was a good little vid.
Thanks Tony. I did work in electrical for a while. Never licensed or anything. Codes are different and change with location. Fortunately (or unfortunately) out in the country there aren't many if any inspections required. It was very interesting to see what the prior owners of the place had done when I got here. They had a unsealed CO in the AC duct with a light bulb hook to it.. lol That was one of the first things it went out the window when I started working on the basement.. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers You are welcome. You are so right about locations and then inspectors change like the wind. Most of us know to not bond neutral and ground in a sub panel, but then the inspector shows up and says you need to bond the ground and neutral together..?? I was not knocking you as I think you know. I just pointed out the paper.. I agree with them that nothing that will burn belongs in there. For a home owner DIY guy this is a very good vid. You explain well from safety to a solid install. I thank you for taking the time to explain so people could understand. This is a very good vid. I would give you 2 thumbs up if I could.
@@notreallyme7465 didn't take it as a knock at all! I appreciate the constructive feedback as it may help someone reading the comments from having to schedule yet ANOTHER inspection! 👍🍻
I’m planning on wiring a GFCI breaker and outlet for an Anvil Foundry. Their wiring instructions say to be sure you have the switch set on 240 volts and to use a NEMA 6-15P or 6-20P plug which is a 3 prong plug. Does that mean I use 3 strand wire from the breaker where the black and white are hot plus the ground wire and not use the center hook up on the GFCI for a fourth wire?
Correct.. You only need a 3 wire plug for the anvil. The ground from those 3 wires will go to the ground bar in the breaker box.
Short Circuited Brewers do you know if the GFCI breaker will still function as intended since I’m not using the neutral?
@@williamstover7350 yes it will.
Would you happen to know if you put a GFCI breaker in a main panel, could you forego using GFCI breakers in a distribution panel?
Sure you only need one gfci in the circuit.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers What I meant was, once GFCI breaker would feed a panel distribution of breakers and circuits. The intent is to minimize the number of GFCI breakers so that on GFI would feed several circuits.
@@MstrRo I understood what you were asking. If you install a 50 amp gfci in the main and run 2 - 20amp and 1-10amp circuit they would all get the protection of the gfci. I'm assuming you have a sub panel you are talking about feeding power to from the single gfci breaker?
Great video !! However my existing situation is a little different and I don't know if I will be able to wire it in the same fashion. Will the GFCI breaker work on a 30amp 240volt Circuit that only has 3 wires to the outlet (black and red on the breaker and green on the ground bar). The outlet is a 3 prong locking type. Also the 5500 watt element on the kettle only has two screws for black and white and the green attaches to the triclamp housing that covers the wires at the element. I would like to make this as safe as possible. Thanks, and Happy New Year
Yeah that works. As long as everything is grounded.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thats great to hear, thanks. just to recap, the white (common) will not be connected to the breakers center screw, since it doesn't exist in my situation. Could or should my green be connected to the center screw?
@@rickcunha6387 the white needs to be connected still even of there is not a neutral out to the outlet. It is part of the GFCI functioning properly. 👍🍻
Well Brian, its a great review of the process and it’s fun watching someone else do the work 😉
Haha!! Thanks!
Can u please show the working of the device and under which condition it works
I am a engineering student in India I want to make the less death rates due to electric shocks..... Can u help me in any such a ways
Not really, I don't have a testing device. It works if there is a an imbalance between power and neutral, or a ground fault.
Don't curl up the wires at the bottom of the panel like shown, cut them to proper size, otherwise it makes installing the next circuit much harder.
I will not did that in case I want to move the breaker in the future. Otherwise I would have.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers how often do you move breakers in a box? I've never had to move any of them but have had to add circuits a lot of times.
@@benoitmalenfant well the main reason is there is a breaker for an electric oven at the top of the box. We use gas so I might want to move the breaker up to the top if I need the space. The box is almost full after finishing the basement. 🍻👍
Another great video! I appreciate these brewery construction videos as I am building one also!
Awesome Tim you're welcome. You have to send me some photos when you're done! Cheers👍🍻
$$$$
$
Awesome video. I noticed you did this for a 4 wire system. I just purchased the brewzilla 65 which is a 3 wire system. Will the gfci breaker still be effective without the neutral wire? Thanks.
Yes sir it will. GFCI protects against ground faults. No neutral required. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thanks for the quick response! Wiring it all up now!
,👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I have the same issue: not sure what to do with the neutral wire at the 3-wire outlet...
Emergency brew day :) Running low on beer!!
Brew on!!
I want to replace a double pole breaker for my pool equipment, the pumps run on the split phase 2x120vac. But there is no neutral wire going to the existing breaker although timers and so on must run on 1x120 cycling back to neutral. So I am not sure yet how to hook up the gfci...
Regular breakers don't have a neutral going to them only a GFCI had the neutral. And it connects to the grounding/neutral bar in the panel. You can run a 4 Conductor wire to your panel and split out the 120 in the panel for the pumps timers etc.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thx for your reply. Your last sentence I don't get, also my pool equipment is 60ft away and everything was initially wired 20yrs ago. I don't know which neutral wire from the pool returns into my panel and has to get disconnected from the bar, to be now guided into the gfci...🙄
@@Gallardo6669 you don't put the neutral into the gfcl it has a neutral built into it that you hook to the breaker box neutral bar. The neutral from the wiring just connects to the neutral bar as well.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I see... So the gfci itself will not receive any neutral wire? Only the neutral wire from itself want to be tied to the neutral bar?
However that works, I then have to assume that:
1. Any current leak from one of these 2x120used together (240v for pump) to ground will be detected and trips gfci?
2. As number 1.above: If the 240 somehow leaks to neutral the gfci trips?
3. If one of these 120 legs is used for timer cycling back to neutral and current leaks to ground gfci trips?
Thank you again for your time!!!
Indeed, as I assumed and kept researching, there can be multiple gfci-cases triggered. Here I want to share good thinking:forums.mikeholt.com/threads/2-pole-gfci-breaker.2322/
if you have a GFIC breaker, do you still need GFIC outlet?
You do not. The GFCI is all you need
250V GFCI outlets dont exist, so you have to go with the GFCI breaker route.
Correct.
Also can you help me understand why you connected the neutral and ground to the neutral bar? I thought there
Was a neutral bar separate from the ground bar?
They are connected to the same bar in my panel. If yours are seperated you should follow the current wiring scheme. You don't have to have a neutral at the plug for the GFI breaker to still function. 👍🍻
So I can still stick with my 6/2 wire and be just fine then correct?
@@cameronluster yep
Neutral and Ground only need to be separated in a sub-panel. In a main panel, a bonding screw actually grounds the neutral bar. You can see the head of the bonding screw just to the right side of the hot feeds in his panel. A separate grounding bar is not needed in a main panel.
Neutral and ground should be treated separately. In the main panel, they are tied together, but always connect white to the neutral, regardless of whether it is tied together or not. In sub panels, ground and neutral are NOT tied together. It is only tied together in the main panel. If you follow ground to ground bar, and neutral to neutral bar, you shouldn't need to worry about whether it is tied together or not, unless you are adding panels. Keep it simple and consistent.
10 gage ok for an outlet 25 feet from the panel?
Yep up to 30 amps. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers 3 wire is ok then?
@@darrylschulz8367 yes but the white wore in the main panel needs to be hooked up from the breaker to the neutral bar. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers great, thanks!
Question: I'm hooking up a dedicated 240V 2-pole breaker to a NEMA 6-20R receptacle. The receptacle and the Anvil both are only 3-wire, with hot-hot-ground in 240V mode, right? My contractor hooked up the breaker and ran the pigtail to the neutral bar, grounded properly, and then ran the two hots to the receptacle. No wire was put into the neutral since the receptacle doesn't require it. When you power on the main breaker the new 240V GFCI instantly trips. Since the neutral isn't required at the receptacle, do we just run a wire from the neutral out on the breaker to the neutral bar in the box? Currently there is no wire in the middle neutral out. This is a dedicated breaker for the single NEMA-6-20R and isn't hooked into anything else.
Pigtail from the breaker connected to the neutral bar should be all you need to do.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers We have that done. The setup is that there is a main panel on the house that has a 60A breaker, and that line feeds my entire brew shop's separate panel. We turned the 60A breaker off, then we put a 20A GFCI 2-pole breaker in the shop panel, hooked the pigtail up to neutral, and ran the two hots to the 6-20R receptacle. No wire is coming out of the neutral in the middle of the two hots on the breaker. When we flip the 60A breaker on, the 20A GFCI in the shop trips off instantly. So you're saying that we shouldn't have any wire coming out of the middle neutral on the 20A GFCI breaker?
@@brianenglish9095 you dont need it. It would only be used in a 4wire plug setup. Only the pigtail should be attached. And the 2 hots attached to the breaker.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers OK, that's what we had hooked up. So the only three wires coming into the receptacle are the 2 hots and the ground from the panel? The GFCI trips instantly with that configuration. We've been scratching our heads on it all day.
Do you have 4 wires running to the sub panel?
Good explanation!
Thanks! 👍🍻
Wouldn’t it be easier to just use a GFCI adapter?
Possibly.. Depending on your situation. I have a dedicated space in my brewery and this is a cheaper option. Most in line 30 amp GFI units are 137+shipping.👍🍻
Short Circuited Brewers Oh okay so it must depend on whether you’re using 120V or 240V because I’m seeing 15 amp GFCI adapters for $16 which should be fine for my 120V set up correct? I’m asking because I live in a apartment and wouldn’t be able to set up a GFCI breaker.
@@funkybrewer6298 yes I'm running 240v 👍🍻
Short Circuited Brewers Will a 15 amp GFCI adapter be sufficient for a 120V setup though?
@@funkybrewer6298 sure any of the all In one systems will work fine off of 15 amps. You can install a GFCI wall plug for those.
Oh, you'll feel the shock. I spilled wort on my surge protector (connected to GFCI) last weekend. It was only 110 but I sure noticed it. I'm quite sure 240 would be at least twice as unpleasant. It was quick though.
I also don't believe your comment about over rating wire is accurate. I don't believe it violates code to go OVER the minimum, you have to account for run lengths too when gauging wire. The breaker's job is to limit the amperage draw.
Alternatively, instead of extending the white wire you can move any of those singles to another slot, if they will reach with the available hot wire. You just need to update the label(s) on your box to meet code ;)
@@thefirebuilds yeah I just went with the first available open slot since the wire would reach. 🍻👍
@@thefirebuilds there was a bit if debate on it IG about it.. Just covering the issue. I agree don't see a problem at all with it. 🍻👍
@@thefirebuilds However, if you ever find a RED wire on a single breaker, you are limited on where it can be moved. This Red wire is more than likely part of a 'shared neutral' circuit. It's move is limited to the same phase it's currently on. Be careful out there sparkies!
VERY GOOD VIDEO. Safety first, good reminders. People take short cuts on this and it will kill you. Love the videos
Thanks!! Safety is very important!
Probably one of the better videos on electrical with GFCI.
Thanks! Glad you found it informative!! 👍🍻
Pragmatic question. There appears to be a significant range of prices for 2-Pole 40-Amp GFCI. If they meet the spec is one brand better than the other?
You are pretty much relegated to the manufacturer of your main breaker panel. There might be a few manufacturers that cross different mounting configurations but for the best results with installation, figure out your main panel manufacturer and purchase the model made for your box. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks that's exactly what I needed to know.
I’m Looking to do this soon for my electric brewery and have done the research, but looking for slight clarification, What wire gauge did you purchase? Is this a 10/3 gauge - 2 hots, 1 ground, 1 neutral for 4 total wires, both pigtail and ground went to left bus bar, while the remaining wires went to breaker? Was the outlet 240VAC L6-30 Plug? TIA.
Everything you said was correct except for 2 things. I went with a larger gauge wire in case I want to increase the power capabilities to 50 amp down the road. The other is I am using a 14-30 plug in the brewery. The connections are as you stated.
Short Circuited Brewers Great, thank you for the clarification!
@@ctanner7889 no problem!
Ok I’ve done quiet a bit of research and I believe I understand what I need now and want to know if it sounds right to you in your (personal nonprofessional opinion).
The system (ss brewtech 2x electric kettle with v2 e-controller) requires 240VAC 30AMP GFCI Dedicated Circuit and a 240VAC L6-30 Plug. My plan is to purchase a Siemens 30 Amp Double Pole Type QPF2 GFCI Circuit Breaker, Southwire 15 ft. 10/2 Solid Romex SIMpull CU NM-B W/G Wire (so white, black, and ground wires), and then Leviton 30 Amp 250-Volt 3-Wire Locking Single Outlet NEMA L6-30R with receptacles. Turn of main breaker power, First Wire up outlet, white and black to hot and ground to ground, run the wire to breaker through conduit, install breaker, wire pigtail to open spot on neutral/ground bar ( I only have left-right bars), wire black to power breaker left, white to power break right (tape with black electrical tape to indicate hot), then finally ground wire to neutral/ground bar. Test with tester, flip power switch, turn on power and hit test. does that sound right? TIA, again!
C Tanner sounds right to me! Just be careful. Which it sounds like you will. 👍🍻
thanks Brian! as usual you are a great explainer... cheers brother!
Thanks man! 👍🍻