You can get a lot of info from UA-cam and I’d honestly be lost without it. Once in a while (almost never) you get a video, like this one, that is absolutely on the money for my application. I have exactly the same cam going in a very similar set up as you have in the video and my intake is at 104 consistently after many attempts. I have ordered an adjustable timing gear set and hope to get it close to 106. Thanks!
Thank you for this sir. I am rebuilding my old man's '77 Trans Am with a 403. Since I am already as far as having pulled the engine, I am doing a full rebuild. Even though you didn't specifically show how it's done, the part on actually advancing or retarding the cam really helped. A lot of other videos always show how to "degree a cam" however there's are always somehow already degreed and don't show the process of what to do, they just say, "It looks good." Thanks again!
Thanks for watching! I ended up going with that roller cam and the AFR heads.. that summit cam ended up on a shelf in my storage, still wanna run it in something!
@@ordinaryguygarage3667Damn those stimulas checks!LOL. I believe that is same Elgin cam E1090P I run in my (400+060) 413. It is 13.9-1,,has iron EQ 50cc heads,flat tops,and built on tight budget($3000). Its in a lightweight dragster that runs very well through 7200 rpms.It shows 560hp with wallace calculators from my ets and weight. I'm sure your Comp Cam is stronger,, but the CT102 would make a nice one in a back up shortblock. I'm looking at AFR220s for my own now and how I fund your channel. Love the shop!
@@riv187 I plan on putting together a motor for my 66 pickup using parts I have stashed…. I keep thinking about that cam! Thanks for watching me fumble through stuff! 😃
Hi question for you. Why do you need to do this and what if you only have a timing set that has one set of key ways for zero? I just took the motor apart in my car 350 SBC unknow cam or who built it. I found the cam timing at TDC compression stroke to have the dots crack up and cam was also up not pointing at each other. Any idea why this is and the car ran fine. I'm confused how to put it back together with the new timing chain now.
Honestly you don’t have to degree a cam in a stock or mostly stock situation.. I degreed mine because of the size cam and it being a race motor.. As far as your timing marks go they need to line up dot to dot. The crank shaft rotates twice for every rotation of the cam. If you have the dot on the crank gear pointing up and the dot on the timing gear pointed up as well then you just need to rotate the motor one more time and it’ll all be lined up
@@ordinaryguygarage3667 but this is how the engine was set up and it was running fine. I just took it out to reseal it because of a lot of oil leaking and paint it. Noticed some play in the double roller and wanted to change the timing set. I know the engine was put together at a engine shop I have the original one that came out of the car
@@Johnnyvette383 Ok.. i was wrong... the cam rotates twice for the cranks one rotation... that being said, you can have the crank 180 out from the camshaft and have it run as normal... I haven't seen that before but there are lots of things I haven't seen... Id double check where you're at and make sure you're correct just for piece of mind and as far as replacing the timing set you could pull off the old and replace with the new as long as the cam and crank don't move...
You were right the first time. Crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. If the cam is 180 out, it will run because that is where it ends up every other crank rotation. If the crank is 180 out, it will never run. Stock rebuild, dot to dot and that's it.
Why would you do this?... uh because the manufacturer went through great lengths to grind the cam, and set its specs, and you won't get the max benefits from the cam. How about a valve hitting a piston, that's a good enough reason to do it. Your engine is a big air pump, the more efficient, the more power, the cam is basically the brain of the air pump. Learn how to do this, and do it regardless of stock or performance.
I had my chrysler 3.5l v6 sohc ground 4 degrees advanced and install at 108 intake center line and I can't find anything on how to degree that engine any help would be greatly appreciated on how to degree my sohc
Do you have part numbers for the parts you used like the gauge that goes in the lifter bore? The degree wheels are pretty common but I like the gauge in the lifter bore
You can get a lot of info from UA-cam and I’d honestly be lost without it. Once in a while (almost never) you get a video, like this one, that is absolutely on the money for my application. I have exactly the same cam going in a very similar set up as you have in the video and my intake is at 104 consistently after many attempts. I have ordered an adjustable timing gear set and hope to get it close to 106. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and passion
Thank you for this sir. I am rebuilding my old man's '77 Trans Am with a 403. Since I am already as far as having pulled the engine, I am doing a full rebuild. Even though you didn't specifically show how it's done, the part on actually advancing or retarding the cam really helped. A lot of other videos always show how to "degree a cam" however there's are always somehow already degreed and don't show the process of what to do, they just say, "It looks good." Thanks again!
Right on brotha, good stuff!
Thanks for another good video! I have a hard time remembering everything too. Looking forward to your next video. God bless.
Thanks for the video useful info keep up the good work .
Thanks for watching!
🙃 i set my cam with #6 piston .... ( 1993 350tbi)
all pistons were within 1.5 gram weight. IT ran pretty good for a whiLE !
Thanks !
You bet!
I'm enjoying your channel. What happened to using the solid 258/264 summit cam?
Thanks for watching! I ended up going with that roller cam and the AFR heads.. that summit cam ended up on a shelf in my storage, still wanna run it in something!
@@ordinaryguygarage3667Damn those stimulas checks!LOL. I believe that is same Elgin cam E1090P I run in my (400+060) 413. It is 13.9-1,,has iron EQ 50cc heads,flat tops,and built on tight budget($3000). Its in a lightweight dragster that runs very well through 7200 rpms.It shows 560hp with wallace calculators from my ets and weight. I'm sure your Comp Cam is stronger,, but the CT102 would make a nice one in a back up shortblock. I'm looking at AFR220s for my own now and how I fund your channel. Love the shop!
@@riv187 I plan on putting together a motor for my 66 pickup using parts I have stashed…. I keep thinking about that cam! Thanks for watching me fumble through stuff! 😃
Looks like you could use some heat
It gets kinda chilly in the shop!
Did your cam card tell you the advance? I think that the problem I'm fighting right now.
I never degree a cam before. If your is 110 center line is that dot to dot. I want to change it to a 108 . Its a street car and weekend Warrior
How is degreeing a v8 cam vs an inline 6
Hi question for you. Why do you need to do this and what if you only have a timing set that has one set of key ways for zero? I just took the motor apart in my car 350 SBC unknow cam or who built it. I found the cam timing at TDC compression stroke to have the dots crack up and cam was also up not pointing at each other. Any idea why this is and the car ran fine. I'm confused how to put it back together with the new timing chain now.
Honestly you don’t have to degree a cam in a stock or mostly stock situation.. I degreed mine because of the size cam and it being a race motor..
As far as your timing marks go they need to line up dot to dot. The crank shaft rotates twice for every rotation of the cam. If you have the dot on the crank gear pointing up and the dot on the timing gear pointed up as well then you just need to rotate the motor one more time and it’ll all be lined up
@@ordinaryguygarage3667 but this is how the engine was set up and it was running fine. I just took it out to reseal it because of a lot of oil leaking and paint it. Noticed some play in the double roller and wanted to change the timing set. I know the engine was put together at a engine shop I have the original one that came out of the car
@@Johnnyvette383 Ok.. i was wrong... the cam rotates twice for the cranks one rotation... that being said, you can have the crank 180 out from the camshaft and have it run as normal... I haven't seen that before but there are lots of things I haven't seen... Id double check where you're at and make sure you're correct just for piece of mind and as far as replacing the timing set you could pull off the old and replace with the new as long as the cam and crank don't move...
You were right the first time. Crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. If the cam is 180 out, it will run because that is where it ends up every other crank rotation. If the crank is 180 out, it will never run. Stock rebuild, dot to dot and that's it.
Why would you do this?... uh because the manufacturer went through great lengths to grind the cam, and set its specs, and you won't get the max benefits from the cam. How about a valve hitting a piston, that's a good enough reason to do it. Your engine is a big air pump, the more efficient, the more power, the cam is basically the brain of the air pump. Learn how to do this, and do it regardless of stock or performance.
I had my chrysler 3.5l v6 sohc ground 4 degrees advanced and install at 108 intake center line and I can't find anything on how to degree that engine any help would be greatly appreciated on how to degree my sohc
Did you ask the cam grinder that you got the cam from? They should have a recommended procedure
@@ordinaryguygarage3667 yeah they said i could put them in off factory timing if I wanted but I'm trying to get the max power out of the cams
Do you have part numbers for the parts you used like the gauge that goes in the lifter bore? The degree wheels are pretty common but I like the gauge in the lifter bore
The lobe indicator tool is made by Proform part# 66838
God
I'm lost
Cool video, thanks ! 😎 😎 😎 😎 😎