Blower Motor Resistor and Plug Replacement Silverado & Sierra (GMT-800) manual HVAC | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2024
- If some of the fan settings on your HVAC system have stopped working in your GM Truck you might need to change out the blower motor resistor. As these trucks age the plug gets hot and the pins may become damaged. It is highly recommended you change out the plug with a high quality part.
Manufactured By: AZCONN - Connectors & Terminals (Part# 201-12854)
Feature: This is the ONLY harness that corrects the original problem!
Details
This harness has been updated to address the failures in the original (OEM) harness and previous versions of the AC Delco PT2195 pigtail and GM 15862656 pigtail. All wire gauge sizes have been upgraded to easily handle the current demands of the Blower Motor at all speeds. Heavy duty 12 ga. wires for the 12v power, ground (-) and the high blower circuit.
Harness is color coded to match the original vehicle wiring (there may be exceptions to this depending on the year and make or your vehicle). Included are free Sealed Splice Connectors (Heat Shrink Butt Connectors) for easy installation.
If you prefer, you can solder the connections and then use a quality 2:1 or 3:1 epoxy heat shrink to cover the connections.
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Blower Motor Resistor and Plug Replacement Silverado & Sierra (GMT-800) manual HVAC | AnthonyJ350
• Blower Motor Resistor ...
ANTHONYJ350
/ anthonyj350
This is the exact video I was looking for for electronics section of the relay! Thanks brother 🙏
So glad to hear the video helped you 🙂
Great job explaining what to be aware of when using non oem. It makes you wonder what was never recalled or designed to fail resistor packs were intentional. Also has potential for parasitic draw. I would be frustrated to chase down burnt connections.
I think they're a wear item. We're asking a lot from them because of the heat they generate at low speed. As long as their easy to access I don't care too much.
They constantly go bad in a lot of cars. Really the design is poor and old school
My truck
AC is fixed thanks! And showing the correct wiring was helpful!
Nice! Good job fixing it 😀
Gonna have to do this repair on my 04 thank you for putting this video up it really helps I have to replace it all because it melted alot of the plastic
Glad the video helped! Let us know how your fix goes.
Are you spying on me Anthony? 😸 I'm literally doing this exact repair tomorrow. My boyfriend's '04 Dodge Durango melted the OE blower resistor about 4 months ago and the blower stopped suddenly one day. I replaced just the resistor and it worked for 4 months until just 2 weeks ago. Warrantied the resistor and that replacement lasted 2 weeks. It's obvious now that there's an issue with the blower motor and the connector is toast at this point. I have a new blower, connector, and resistor going in tomorrow which will hopefully resolve the issue. My hypothesis is that the blower motor has aged and draws more current than spec. Worn brushes, dry bearings, worn com bars, and maybe even a shorted winding in there somewhere are causing it to draw a lot more current and the resistor pins can't take it. This is apparently a pattern failure however, and people have had issues with this melting for years prior to my intro to it now. Here in Southern AZ, air conditioning is required at the moment to be mildly comfortable.
I guess great minds think alike. Your theories make a ton of sense for an older vehicle. I would suggest regrounding the negative battery terminal to chassis, alternator bracket and on the firewall if you can. Then maybe splice and solder a 12 gauge wire of the negative of the blow motor and ground that in the kick panel. That way the blower motor and charging system can pull more amperage efficiently, and help electronics run cooler.
@@AnthonyJ350 Excellent suggestions, thank you. :) I always learn from you and I appreciate it. Your tips and instructions have made me a more capable person when it comes to 12v stuff and wiring as well as installs. :)
mannys9130 That's so awesome to hear! Comments like this make it worth making the videos to hopefully help people and up the standard of workmanship 😀
hello, I'm from Russia, I have a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado, the weak points of these cars are the connecting contacts.., and the engines
and drives in the duct are something.))))the work that you have done is better done by soldering, so as not to add more new contacts.. 👍
Thanks for watching!
there is no need to change the whole part, it is enough to replace 1 of the 3 burnt thermo fuses located in this block.., only one of them can burn, in my case it was the top one.., the price is 35 cents ...))) From Russia with love!!!..🤫you, unlike many others, quite correctly replaced the cable by soldering the wires, and not crimping them! 👍
Thanks for watching!
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the good work.!
Thanks for this video man, I should of changed the plug last time but didnt, now i dont have a choice lol
You're welcome, let us know if it works better after.
I have a 2006 Silverado 4x4 king cab and I slowly lost #1, #2, #3 and #5 on my fan blower but I still had #4 so I let everything ride on #4. On the hottest day of the year, well so far anyway ole #4 decided that it didn't want to play anymore and #4 went down.
After getting the PITA lower cowling/plastic off and removing the 2 screws holding the resistor in place I found out why it's always better to address a problem quickly as half of my wires were melted together and the large black and red wired were fused together with the bare copper wire exposed and after removing what seemed like 5 miles of the stickiest black tape that I have ever worked with in my life I sent my wife to town to get a new resistor with the clip to put my soon to be cut wires in BUT I still have to figure out what caused all of the melting so I don't have another meltdown.
My wife texted me and said O'Reilly's would have to order the part and it would be $68 so she went across the street to Autozone and bought the part for $36 so hopefully I can figure all of this mess out and get my fan blower back into the fight against the summer heat but more importantly back in the fight against frost, snow and freezing cold but this video help me tremendously to start this project
It's essentially wear and tear. He occurs at the resistor, especially at lower fan speeds because it has to restrict more amperage. The best thing to do is upgrade to the newer style pigtail and also upgrade the grounds on the charging system to ensure you get optimal voltage to all the devices.
Your a professional brother. Like really impressed. Merry Christmas.
Thank you so much for the kind words! Merry Christmas to you and your family!
I see you did the cabin air filter mod. I did this to my GMC Yukon also. I used the GM kit that takes one large filter. I guess if they discontinue that one I can use the two filters that were used in 99 -02 trucks....
Yup, totally worth it. I'm going to do another video showing people how it works I think.
@@AnthonyJ350 That be great! A heavy duty box cutter and a dremel make the job of cutting the HVAC box easy.
Installed the part and new harness and it works like a charm and hopefully it performs as it should for quite a few years. I'm pretty sure the wife brought home the cheap "Kit" because all of the wires were either black or white but the new wires seemed heavier than the original wires and the same size as the hot and ground wires?
Glad you fixed it!
@@AnthonyJ350
I'm glad you put this video up and included the part involving the harness. Thank you!
Mine just came in today wish me luck
Let us know how it goes!
great video
Thanks for watching!
This will be my first wiring job on my 2006 chevy. Pretty confident after watching this video. Just wondering if I need to clean the sodering with alcohol. Every thing I read online says it gets the flux off? Thought I'd run it by you since you seem pretty knowledgable.
You'll want to use the brand Kester solder, it's the same that I use. Also use 3M Super 33 electrical tape to insulate all your connections. Here's the solder www.ebay.com/itm/202006855960?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f088c0118:g:~gIAAOSwhvFZCrYP&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACgPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSjVt3vLKCbov98Z19qhuwY8N%252BSIof9I2flvmf%252BzNtKcTi39RigeistMahokQMV2D%252Fol9tG%252BE6%252Fr63naNuq92avqOsBvie2tCFEY0pv9%252BzeHDhHPDkf%252FTZMd4ksqQlzpD8ngkVrR1hGTBh9LReBlz6zgvKAYjp2BIbi4trzH9m426yhsR1RVfG%252FJcalfQhic10ZhRJsgnIKOlkuEaRJZRdO3dWiUabkO00j0A1zBq66UNue7eI%252B46tq5FpB9RQOd47gI1A8dg92UZCgcbXmS0oIoKiQVs1M36CbrdGN0Pu46s1KEKAlcFaK7XpuJDG69KU4b4tslubVUdnUXUUqKgvsqgrRyQ4RIispcQgfC%252Btc1OAO8p22dvAxNPK2QvIQgAFrfykdDejL05nJFJtPxQv%252FkWlh5npYp%252FDj2Rh9nBtZimtD9HZZ0UsCMc8ZYw54RgQ3O74sT7rWYSJi5lEVUqePcJ6D1KmeFK9LMOFOP2YvjmbkIWqpVs9WdoNMCESv076YM0hViup0r7nUCi9oBOHI29v4SGBPsh%252FimEmqFYKSNcDyQqPpKaYY%252BKPgY1d%252FFOKhagZfO6O3Jlg2zr0gcTu2dU7b%252FBvvb%252BuzrZJBIZ4MtvXTYnWdbETKLOXTIK0Y0NXiE5WqfjIA%252FQ5ZbwCnZKvcYgxbbk%252FAuVKPv3OT9P5fM48eBfaYLYPFdX3cV3EuZzqJdzaPElRCF2iLIHraNgrLV8ov6BQZOnegwzgs8ml%252BxfHobDlFLCQPHHaJCC5q59XjvHGYE7X1%252FKsea3RwXjwaOmqblqxy%252FXrdVJvIxW7eio%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337982243&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Is it necessary to replace the resistor when replacing the harness?
It's not a bad idea to.
My door blend actuators are not getting power at all. Do you know what it could be? and my ac blows warm air and heater blows warm too. Ac compressor and condenser are good as well as my receiver dryer. Thanks
Did you try this procedure. Also check all the fuses.
Thanks for responding fast! My speeds work good with no issues I just don’t get ac at all just warm air. I was thinking of trying this to see if it would solve it. I did check my fuses and they were all good.
I’m gonna do this job on a 2007 Chevy trailblazer. But what I can’t get it the color one. It’s only black and white how would I got about that job. Please help I got no heat in the car
You would have to go one wire at a time and copy "pin location"
Grate. Thanks I was thinking the same thing!
Does orientation of resistor module matter if the plug is in the front or back??
Should only go in one way
Have a link to the updated resistor? Not showing up on Amazon or online... Unless it's just been discontinued or something
I got a genuine one from the dealership.
@@AnthonyJ350 gotcha! The way I perceived it was that it was only that aftermarket option in the video that had thicker gauge wiring! Thank you
@@stuartgriffin5.7 No, I think GM actually wanted to improve it a little. Too many of these trucks still on the road. Lots of business there
Any ideas on how to get the plug to release when it’s stuck.
Use a really small flat head screw driver and try to pry it out side to side from the inside.
Silver makes a good connection use silver solder FYI
Industry standard is lead based. Solder holds a good connection together, solder is not meant to make a good connection
I juat did this n my blower still not working it kicks like it wants to start won’t engage
Measure voltage and ground resistance. Also try to test the blower motor outside of the truck on a different source to verify it's ok.
what is the part number of wire clip and where did you get it
Which part in the video?
@@AnthonyJ350the multi colors wire kit
@@Juniorzeeseven1 Manufacturer and part number are in the description
My factory plug wires have been cut out by a previous owner, now I have no heat and don’t know what to do lol
Go to an install shop that specializes in electrical.
What is the name of the tool used to cut the outside of the wires without cutting the wire itself?
Which part in the video are you referring to?
3:25
@@almightykashii5254 Oh, those are wire strippers. Klein is the manufacturer
Thank you🤙🏾
@@almightykashii5254 You're welcome
Came to just see if anyone else's ribbon plug is a stuck pos...
I should've left it screwed in for thst, but I'm using enough pressure to break the plastic, already almost clipped through wires insulation
Were you able to pry it out?
It doesn't show where the resistor is for a 2015 chevy silverado
This video isn't for a 2015
HEY BRO, I HAVE A 350Z 08. I WAS DRIVING AND THE DASH LIGHTS STARTED FLICKERING AND THE CAR DIED. TRIED TO JUMP IT NOTHING. THE BATTERY IS GOOD AND ALMOST FULLY CHARGE. TURNING THE KEY STILL NOTHING, NO LIGHTS, NO CRANK. ALTERNATOR IS 2 YEARS OLD. ANY CLUE WHY AND HOW TO FIX? MAN THIS GOT BUMMED OUT. DONE A LOT OF WORK ON THE Z AND NOW IT'S COMPLETELY DEAD. TURNING THE KEY WITH GOOD BATTERY DOES NOTHING, LIGHTS ON DASH BOARD DON'T EVEN COME ON.
Is the battery tight? Are the connections at the battery corroded? Also take the red cover off the positive terminal and see if any of the fuseable links have blown. The IPDM or a relay in their could be faulty as well. There have been reports of some getting too wet and getting damaged.
@@AnthonyJ350 OMG! BRO, YOUR A 350Z SAVER. ZERO CORRODE ON BATTERY AND CLEAN. TOOK THE RED COVER OFF ON THE POSITIVE AND SURE ENOUGH, THE 140A FUSE IS BLOWN. HOW DO I REPLACE IT. NOT USED TO THIS KIND OF FUSE.
@@JUNEORJUNE You'll have to get a new fuseable link at the dealership. They're not cheap though.
@@JUNEORJUNE The question is, why did the fuseable link fail? You have to figure what caused the short, because if you just replace it, it might blow the fuse again and you just spent money on that part.
@@AnthonyJ350 THAT'S A GOOD QUESTION, I HAVE NO CLUE, HAVE HAD THE Z FOR 5 YEARS NOW. NEVER HAD THAT HAPPEN TILL I REMOVED THE RADIO AND THAN PUT BACK IN. I KNOW NON OF THE WIERS ARE CUT.
Were did you buy the harnessed?
Ebay
@@AnthonyJ350 oh ok thanks I need the harness that goes in the dash for the ac tho
@@crissyquiroga7949 Try searching eBay. It's also possible the dealership can get it.
How much is this part
Something like $60 at the dealership. You can get third party product but I found it doesn't last as long.
If anyone is looking for the connector used in the video:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575240889&toolid=10001&campid=5337982243&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FChevrolet-7-wire-Blower-Motor-Resistor-Harness-Pigtail%2F251727589769%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT%26_trksid%3Dp2060353.m2749.l2649
The link above didn't work for me. I did find it here:
www.buywiring.com/7-wire_blower_motor_resistor_harness_gm_15862656_acdelco_pt2195.html