Cycle is when u fully discharge battery and charge it back. You are right to charge battery when it drops to 40-30%, healthy is when it drops to 3.7v or 3.6v per cell which is 50%. AND if u want you battery last long charge it to 80-90%, never charge 100%. Healthy is to charge up to 4.1v per cell.
My electric bike motor is 500 watt when I go uphill I put it on 2nd or 3rd gear to pedal. When I ride flat sidewalks I have it on the 7th gear. I keep the pedal assist on level 1 to help the motor work smooth and help the battery range. Before I charge the battery I let it cool down for 30 minutes before charging. When I don't go for longer range I keep the battery percentage at 80 cause 80 helps the battery last longer. For a longer ride I charge it to 100 percent!
If you use 10% of a lithium battery and recharge to 100%, you've used 1/10th of a cycle. These are not like the old rechargeables. You wouldn't want to do that anyway but a cycle is a FULL cycle.
The cycles are full charges, not the number of times it's on the charger! If you charge your battery at 50% up to a full charge, two times on the charger is ONE charge. You also need to plug your charger into power before you plug it into your battery or it will spark! There is no reason why you can't throttle up a hill, but it will make the motor work harder.
Sorry bud your comments are 100% Wrong By charging your battery each time you ride your bike you are keeping it at or near 100% this can over time lead to Oxidization which Will Shorten the life of your Battery. Having your charger powered while connecting or disconnecting your Battery runs the Risk of "Arcing" Which Can Damage your Charger Battery or Both ! Throttling up hills Can & Will Eventually Cause Severe Damage to Your Ebike ! When you Throttle up Hills this Puts High Amperage Into your Ebikes Electrical Components Under Heavy Load creates Extreme Heat that cannot dissipate and in turn Cause "Melt Down" . We work on 100s of Ebike and yes We have Seen All of the Above ! By following a Few Simple Rules You Will Save Yourself $$$ and Enjoy Years of Happy Ebiking. Ride Safe
@@bcebikewouldn’t you be able to counter overheating with the use of heatsinks and fans (to easily go up hills)? Also I’m not too sure about the whole chances to charge your battery thing. From what I know on phone batteries it’s the same as the other guy explained it where it’s about FULL cycle charges which damage the battery lifespan (given the battery is somewhat low or dies)?
And with arcing I would’ve thought it would arc either way whether you join the connection at the charging cable or the battery. I guess it’s a game of what you would rather damage lol.
@@bcebikeits not about the number of cycles. What he says is right, when they say the battery lifespan has 500 charge cycles, first, thats just a estimate. They mean 500 charges from low battery to full. But its highly imprecise. The battery can live much longer if one avoid the battery to lose the charge or stay without charge, additionaly to avoid it to be fully charged. In general, if you keep battery between 20 and 80 prosent at all time, and only every 20 time or so charge it to 100% then when you do need to charge it to 100% make sure to use it a bit very soon. I use a timer on must my devises, so i charge them most often when they are at 30 to 40 % and then i time it that they stop charging at 80-90%. I done that with my huawei for 5 years, the battery is practically as it was when it was new. Its those time of fully charging, overheating or specialy if discharge totally that the battery become chemicaly unstable and life span is significantly being reduced, number of times you connect it to the charger is less relevant. You are right that its not good to charge so many times if you connect to charger at 80 prosent and then charge to 100, but you dont have to do that, its better to charger at 20 to 40% then charge it up to 80 prosent.
@@airzone9639 Souds true, that where is the most sensitive electronics, you want to protect from overpulses as you connect it to electrisity. normaly, one would think that.. with a lap top. the most sensitive electronics that one would protect would ofc be inside the lap top.. and not the charger. also the charger might be less sensitive and handle overpulses/ high voltage pulses better.. since the chargers job is exactly to handle charge and give a stable output on a spesific voltage range to the unit that needs the charge.. So the logical thing is to use the charger as a buffer when connecting.. thats why you connect the chqrgers cable to the battery /bicycle/ laptop first.. then when connected, you connect the charger to the electric grid after.. if there is some over/high voltage pulses in the moment of connection. tgis happens in the charger and is reduced or more or less nullified before reaching the battery/ bicycle/laptop.. then when disconnecting. one do the same thing.. disconnects from the grid first, because disconnecting from battery bicycle or laptop while there is power from chargee could give arcing and this partial connecting with voltage could lead to high voltage pulses directly into the unit. thats why we disconnects the charger from grid first.. so if there is any high voltage pulses again from disconnecting, if will be distributed into the charger, and as these pulses are very chort lived.. they will not realy reach the unit. I know this is how its best to do as a regular habit.. yet i think its rare that units gets destroyd from these kinfmd pulses. they are made for handle these things. but to be sure and not chalenge that, we should do it this way. so thanks for this remindings. because have actualy forgoten a bit about this. with stereo and PA music i used to do this.. but havent been handeling these for a long time.. in this cases you get a bad sounding noice if you do it wrong way. so then you can acctualy hear these pulses entering into the speakers.. witch ofc is not good for the speakers. But here the electronic befor is amplifiers. so as i remember one disconect the speakers first.. if you disconect the amplifier with speakers connected.. the pulses gets amplified into the speakers. anyways. i see on electric bicycles.. in the instruktion manuals, it says to connect to the charger to the electric grid first. and i think that the reason for that is that with 220 v as we have here in europe, the risk for overpulses is much higher.. and for the disconectinf for the 36 or 48V output.. there is not so much arcking.. so the most dangerous overpulses is when the connection to 220V happens.. thats why we should probably connect the charger to the grid first.. and also discconect it last.. so there is no connection with the sensitive unit when connection and disconection to the 220v grid happens. again... you have to be a bit unlycky for a part to get destrout by this kind pulse... but it might happen.. so better to avoid. strangely. the instruction manuals i checked said noting abput witch order to disconnect.. it said just to connect the charger first to grid.. .. then connect the charger to the unit.
If you're going to store your battery/eBike unused for a while (say longer than a week), it's better to store at 40-60% battery charge than fully charged. Only charge fully when you're going to start riding again.
No2 done complete opisit to what you said, make sure wall switch is also off its exactly the same as plugging the adapter in the bike on it can still spark especially on extension leads trust me it's happened to me!
I just subscribed to your channel, it's fun! Thank you, the future is bright. P.S. Have you seen the 1979 movie (Breaking Away)? Your parents might remember it.
@@Tony-jw6oyNo she said first plug in the cable to the battery and then the charger to the power outlet But simon is right that you should do the opposite. First plug in in the charger and then connect to the battery
The user manual for my 20ah e-bike battery clearly states to plug in battery first, then plug charger into wall. When done charging, unplug battery first, then unplug charger from wall.
Wrong wrong wrong. The plug should be in before putting in charger else it sparks. Charging 5 times at 3/4 full is not a full cycle. So it better to charge every time you get back from your ride
Not according to the manufacturer of my bike. According to them, she is correct. NEVER plug into the wall then your bike. When connecting, plug into the battery/bike then into the wall, unplug from the wall first when disconnecting. Any arc or spark can damage the BMS which can then cause thermal runaway away and a major fire that is difficult, if not impossible, to extinguish. Remember, lithium is water reactive, causing a bigger, hotter fire if water is used to attempt to extinguish. Also, each time you plug the battery into the charger and charge it, you have used a 'charging cycle' cutting the battery's life span. Again, she is correct in her assertion and people should listen. When lubing the chain, ensure no lube gets on the brake rotor or brake pads, it will cause brake failure and component deterioration! I've learned from my mistakes and wish I would've seen this video first, it would've saved me a lot of money. Again, her advice is backed up and co firmed by one of the biggest ebike manufacturers.
Proper chargers have internal fuses and checks for this. But also the most unsafe plug in the world is the Canadian plug only barely beating out the us plug because Canada doesn't use proper grounds and power strips should be switched off when plugging.
@@DatGuy960 they’re wrong then. If it’s not plugged in and just put in battery there is more chance of sparking from the battery to the negative connector. Upto you though, everyone had an opinion
I agree with you I do my ebike the way you said it. I was totally confused how she was saying it. I have no issue doing the way we does it. I would think it will be bad if we put it in the battery then in the outlet also lol
Way too much chain lube here. It'll make for a very dirty/grimy drive-train that could wear out even faster with road grime stuck to parts. Even after a wipe you'll likely be spraying oil on the bike and the grit will go deep. One drop per link then thoroughly dry is a better approach. Takes a spec more time but worth it. 500 watts? Canada? No bringing in and using ebikes from the u.s. on vacation with a 750 watt limit then. I just leaned something here.
500 watts @ 32 km/h speed limit is a very soft law. There are people riding 15,000 watt eBikes and Scooters in Canada. You can order a Class 2 500 watt sticker online and just cover up the stock one (lol). if it works on California cops it will work on Canadian cops.
@@christopherfidler3019 I agree with the lax laws. I've seen it all here on the west coast of cali. Whew! I just don't want to wander over the border to visit a favorite place and get in trouble, (which seems to follow me, lol),. Didn't know about the stickers - doesn't surprise me at all in 2024. Wow. There's a market for everything it seems. Cheers. 👍
I'm a road cyclist and test rode an ebike. Top speed 20mph on the one I rode. With the motor and battery they are heavy and cumbersome, besides I can sustain over 20mph on my road bike. Bottom line they may be great for some, but not for me, I wouldn't own one.
@@blessedswine Your electric bicycle is in a different class to the one the road cyclist abovementioned tested . Some pedalecs have a"retardation" feel once the motor assistance ramps down fully . This can be problematic for some users .
Gotta get an actual ebike not some shitty 500w bs. Ever rode a surron, talaria there fast but 5k. There’s also better and cheaper options for 1.3k usd like the mototec 60v, Kugoo, and ebox. All are new come with warranty under 2k, allot of torque that you can easily wheelie and even knock you back if you aren’t careful. Some speed up to 40+ miles per hour and there very easy to modify and upgrade and make faster. Just because you rode some crappy ebike doesn’t mean all e-bikes are slow pices of crap.
Wrong….if the trail says no motorized vehicles e-bikes are allowed(state dependent) here in NJ as long as your Ebike tops out at 20mph you can take it on any bike trail unless it says NO E-BIKES but if it says no motorized we don’t consider a Ebike a motorized vehicle till it goes over 20mph….or class 3 which is any bike that can go over 20mph you
Cycle is when u fully discharge battery and charge it back. You are right to charge battery when it drops to 40-30%, healthy is when it drops to 3.7v or 3.6v per cell which is 50%. AND if u want you battery last long charge it to 80-90%, never charge 100%. Healthy is to charge up to 4.1v per cell.
My electric bike motor is 500 watt when I go uphill I put it on 2nd or 3rd gear to pedal. When I ride flat sidewalks I have it on the 7th gear. I keep the pedal assist on level 1 to help the motor work smooth and help the battery range. Before I charge the battery I let it cool down for 30 minutes before charging. When I don't go for longer range I keep the battery percentage at 80 cause 80 helps the battery last longer. For a longer ride I charge it to 100 percent!
If you use 10% of a lithium battery and recharge to 100%, you've used 1/10th of a cycle. These are not like the old rechargeables. You wouldn't want to do that anyway but a cycle is a FULL cycle.
The cycles are full charges, not the number of times it's on the charger! If you charge your battery at 50% up to a full charge, two times on the charger is ONE charge. You also need to plug your charger into power before you plug it into your battery or it will spark! There is no reason why you can't throttle up a hill, but it will make the motor work harder.
Sorry bud your comments are 100% Wrong
By charging your battery each time you ride your bike you are keeping it at or near 100% this can over time lead to Oxidization which Will Shorten the life of your Battery.
Having your charger powered while connecting or disconnecting your Battery runs the Risk of "Arcing" Which Can Damage your Charger Battery or Both !
Throttling up hills Can & Will Eventually Cause Severe Damage to Your Ebike ! When you Throttle up Hills this Puts High Amperage Into your Ebikes Electrical Components Under Heavy Load creates Extreme Heat that cannot dissipate and in turn Cause "Melt Down" .
We work on 100s of Ebike and yes We have Seen All of the Above ! By following a Few Simple Rules You Will Save Yourself $$$ and Enjoy Years of Happy Ebiking.
Ride Safe
@@bcebikewouldn’t you be able to counter overheating with the use of heatsinks and fans (to easily go up hills)? Also I’m not too sure about the whole chances to charge your battery thing. From what I know on phone batteries it’s the same as the other guy explained it where it’s about FULL cycle charges which damage the battery lifespan (given the battery is somewhat low or dies)?
And with arcing I would’ve thought it would arc either way whether you join the connection at the charging cable or the battery. I guess it’s a game of what you would rather damage lol.
@@bcebikeits not about the number of cycles. What he says is right, when they say the battery lifespan has 500 charge cycles, first, thats just a estimate. They mean 500 charges from low battery to full. But its highly imprecise. The battery can live much longer if one avoid the battery to lose the charge or stay without charge, additionaly to avoid it to be fully charged. In general, if you keep battery between 20 and 80 prosent at all time, and only every 20 time or so charge it to 100% then when you do need to charge it to 100% make sure to use it a bit very soon. I use a timer on must my devises, so i charge them most often when they are at 30 to 40 % and then i time it that they stop charging at 80-90%. I done that with my huawei for 5 years, the battery is practically as it was when it was new.
Its those time of fully charging, overheating or specialy if discharge totally that the battery become chemicaly unstable and life span is significantly being reduced, number of times you connect it to the charger is less relevant.
You are right that its not good to charge so many times if you connect to charger at 80 prosent and then charge to 100, but you dont have to do that, its better to charger at 20 to 40% then charge it up to 80 prosent.
@@airzone9639 Souds true, that where is the most sensitive electronics, you want to protect from overpulses as you connect it to electrisity.
normaly, one would think that.. with a lap top. the most sensitive electronics that one would protect would ofc be inside the lap top.. and not the charger. also the charger might be less sensitive and handle overpulses/ high voltage pulses better.. since the chargers job is exactly to handle charge and give a stable output on a spesific voltage range to the unit that needs the charge..
So the logical thing is to use the charger as a buffer when connecting.. thats why you connect the chqrgers cable to the battery /bicycle/ laptop first.. then when connected, you connect the charger to the electric grid after.. if there is some over/high voltage pulses in the moment of connection. tgis happens in the charger and is reduced or more or less nullified before reaching the battery/ bicycle/laptop.. then when disconnecting. one do the same thing.. disconnects from the grid first, because disconnecting from battery bicycle or laptop while there is power from chargee could give arcing and this partial connecting with voltage could lead to high voltage pulses directly into the unit. thats why we disconnects the charger from grid first.. so if there is any high voltage pulses again from disconnecting, if will be distributed into the charger, and as these pulses are very chort lived.. they will not realy reach the unit.
I know this is how its best to do as a regular habit.. yet i think its rare that units gets destroyd from these kinfmd pulses. they are made for handle these things. but to be sure and not chalenge that, we should do it this way. so thanks for this remindings. because have actualy forgoten a bit about this. with stereo and PA music i used to do this.. but havent been handeling these for a long time.. in this cases you get a bad sounding noice if you do it wrong way. so then you can acctualy hear these pulses entering into the speakers.. witch ofc is not good for the speakers.
But here the electronic befor is amplifiers. so as i remember one disconect the speakers first.. if you disconect the amplifier with speakers connected.. the pulses gets amplified into the speakers.
anyways. i see on electric bicycles.. in the instruktion manuals, it says to connect to the charger to the electric grid first. and i think that the reason for that is that with 220 v as we have here in europe, the risk for overpulses is much higher.. and for the disconectinf for the 36 or 48V output.. there is not so much arcking.. so the most dangerous overpulses is when the connection to 220V happens.. thats why we should probably connect the charger to the grid first.. and also discconect it last.. so there is no connection with the sensitive unit when connection and disconection to the 220v grid happens. again... you have to be a bit unlycky for a part to get destrout by this kind pulse... but it might happen.. so better to avoid. strangely. the instruction manuals i checked said noting abput witch order to disconnect.. it said just to connect the charger first to grid.. .. then connect the charger to the unit.
If you're going to store your battery/eBike unused for a while (say longer than a week), it's better to store at 40-60% battery charge than fully charged. Only charge fully when you're going to start riding again.
No2 done complete opisit to what you said, make sure wall switch is also off its exactly the same as plugging the adapter in the bike on it can still spark especially on extension leads trust me it's happened to me!
Always put your chargers on a power on off switch , turn power off unplug charger .
I just subscribed to your channel, it's fun! Thank you, the future is bright.
P.S. Have you seen the 1979 movie (Breaking Away)? Your parents might remember it.
No2 is false. You should plug in the charger first and switch on as the circuits in the charger prevent arcing when connecting to the bikes battery.
That's literally what she says. You misheard.
No she doesn’t. She says plug in charger then put other end in battery. That’s wrong. It will,spark
@@Tony-jw6oyNo she said first plug in the cable to the battery and then the charger to the power outlet
But simon is right that you should do the opposite. First plug in in the charger and then connect to the battery
@@Dennis.65f I know as I have a scooter. And electric bike and always plug in first to prevent spark
The user manual for my 20ah e-bike battery clearly states to plug in battery first, then plug charger into wall. When done charging, unplug battery first, then unplug charger from wall.
What about a 72 volt e dirt bike made from a mountain bike maby 100 volts is that legal
Try your best to always us an outlet direct source as extentions are under powered and can spontaneously short circuit a battery
Wrong wrong wrong. The plug should be in before putting in charger else it sparks. Charging 5 times at 3/4 full is not a full cycle. So it better to charge every time you get back from your ride
Not according to the manufacturer of my bike. According to them, she is correct. NEVER plug into the wall then your bike. When connecting, plug into the battery/bike then into the wall, unplug from the wall first when disconnecting. Any arc or spark can damage the BMS which can then cause thermal runaway away and a major fire that is difficult, if not impossible, to extinguish. Remember, lithium is water reactive, causing a bigger, hotter fire if water is used to attempt to extinguish. Also, each time you plug the battery into the charger and charge it, you have used a 'charging cycle' cutting the battery's life span. Again, she is correct in her assertion and people should listen. When lubing the chain, ensure no lube gets on the brake rotor or brake pads, it will cause brake failure and component deterioration! I've learned from my mistakes and wish I would've seen this video first, it would've saved me a lot of money. Again, her advice is backed up and co firmed by one of the biggest ebike manufacturers.
Proper chargers have internal fuses and checks for this. But also the most unsafe plug in the world is the Canadian plug only barely beating out the us plug because Canada doesn't use proper grounds and power strips should be switched off when plugging.
@@DatGuy960 they’re wrong then. If it’s not plugged in and just put in battery there is more chance of sparking from the battery to the negative connector. Upto you though, everyone had an opinion
@@DatGuy960the manufacturer of your bike is an idiot!!!!! They just started their ebike journey recently as well!!!!!!
I agree with you I do my ebike the way you said it. I was totally confused how she was saying it. I have no issue doing the way we does it. I would think it will be bad if we put it in the battery then in the outlet also lol
Way too much chain lube here. It'll make for a very dirty/grimy drive-train that could wear out even faster with road grime stuck to parts. Even after a wipe you'll likely be spraying oil on the bike and the grit will go deep. One drop per link then thoroughly dry is a better approach. Takes a spec more time but worth it. 500 watts? Canada? No bringing in and using ebikes from the u.s. on vacation with a 750 watt limit then. I just leaned something here.
500 watts @ 32 km/h speed limit is a very soft law. There are people riding 15,000 watt eBikes and Scooters in Canada. You can order a Class 2 500 watt sticker online and just cover up the stock one (lol). if it works on California cops it will work on Canadian cops.
@@christopherfidler3019 I agree with the lax laws. I've seen it all here on the west coast of cali. Whew! I just don't want to wander over the border to visit a favorite place and get in trouble, (which seems to follow me, lol),. Didn't know about the stickers - doesn't surprise me at all in 2024. Wow. There's a market for everything it seems. Cheers. 👍
You didn't get charge cycles right. Otherwise good vid
Yea, it’s 500 complete cycles otherwise it’s a partial cycle.
I'm a road cyclist and test rode an ebike. Top speed 20mph on the one I rode. With the motor and battery they are heavy and cumbersome, besides I can sustain over 20mph on my road bike. Bottom line they may be great for some, but not for me, I wouldn't own one.
My Ebike hits 35 mph with no issues
@@blessedswine Your electric bicycle is in a different class to the one the road cyclist abovementioned tested . Some pedalecs have a"retardation" feel once the motor assistance ramps down fully . This can be problematic for some users .
@@blessedswineThe Giant Talon pedalecs have been known to be problematic .
If you're that fit good for you. EbIkes are allowing increased mobility for older and less fit individuals, or those who wish to extend their range.
Gotta get an actual ebike not some shitty 500w bs. Ever rode a surron, talaria there fast but 5k. There’s also better and cheaper options for 1.3k usd like the mototec 60v, Kugoo, and ebox. All are new come with warranty under 2k, allot of torque that you can easily wheelie and even knock you back if you aren’t careful. Some speed up to 40+ miles per hour and there very easy to modify and upgrade and make faster. Just because you rode some crappy ebike doesn’t mean all e-bikes are slow pices of crap.
The charger should be plugged in before connecting it to the wall. Same for a pc. Not sure why doing the reverse is even a thing.
Any bike trails that says no motors means no motors..
Wrong….if the trail says no motorized vehicles e-bikes are allowed(state dependent) here in NJ as long as your Ebike tops out at 20mph you can take it on any bike trail unless it says NO E-BIKES but if it says no motorized we don’t consider a Ebike a motorized vehicle till it goes over 20mph….or class 3 which is any bike that can go over 20mph you