Very nice video. Clear illustrations of steps you took. Sometimes the mount has to be removed and sometimes not. I think it depends on the age of vehicle (in years) when the rubber dries out and shrinks and hardens. The Part 2 video shows more and is also good. After they fixed the initial issues with the variable valve timing, this has been an exceptionally reliable powertrain. A bitch in my opinion to work on. For so much of the stuff you really need to remove the whole thing from the car to work on it. (As the factory manual says). I like that you wore gloves a lot to keep your hands clean. I do the same thing. BTW the water pump is a lot more work.
I did the job today. It was actually pretty easy, took me about three hours to replace the thermostat and do the flush and get everything put back together...Though my cousin is not going to be happy because after i got done and cranked it up..i can hear the shaft, bearings or whatever in the water pump, which isnt good. Coolant is also leaking out of the water pump so im pretty sure it has a bad seal. I dont have time to do that for her so i told her she could get it done at the dealership for around $350.
Yeah, it sounds like a bad water pump, but what you did should not have caused it. Did you notice that it was making noise and leaking water before you worked on it?
it was never started before i got it. i went to look at it day before yesterday, never cranked it, and she brought it here yesterday. i never took any of the pulleys off except the idler pulley as described behind the water hose flange. it runs fine, just makes one hell of a racket. and has water coming out from the water pump. To be honestt eh water appears to be coming from the main crank shaft pulley which is worrisome. If theres water in the block...she blew it up last week driving it hot. either way its turned into a job for a toyota mechanic..
I wonder if having air in the system can do that? Or maybe using the wrong fluid 🤷♀️ Remember you have to bleed the system of any air using the bleeder valve.
Thank you, MRM. Now I know where the cylinder block drain cock plugs are on a 2GR-FE engine. Too bad I could not find them on the 2008 Lexus ES350 Repair Manual (same engine as the 2006 Avalon).
Hey. I’m working on this same pos is haha: This is awesome stuff. Tell me. I have fluid pouring out so is that a busted plug I believe it is and how should I repair this I have the radiator out and new one is going in?? Thank you.
ok i didnt think so..my cousin brought her car to my drive-way today...ive got to do this exact job tomorrow..thanks for the video!...though now that you say it was a PITA..im rethinking offering to do it for free :P
Hey brother I have a quick question I have a 2008 Toyota Avalon and undecided whether I want to change the transmission fluid my vehicle has currently 163,000 miles and I do not know when the owner previous owner that is changed it or if he did I’ve been advised not to do it due to the debris and the risk of transmission messing up and somebody else mentioned it’s OK for me to do it because it has a filterInside so I shouldn’t worry about the debris please advise thank you In advance
I think that it would be safe to drain what is in the pan, and then refill. Wait a few weeks, and if the trans seems fine, do it again. After doing this 3 times, you will have replaced most of the trans fluid in a safe manner that should not cause any damage
There may be a specified torque for them, but I just went by feel.......good and snug. You can check them with the engine running to make sure that they are not leaking..
Yeah they're probably like 17 or 20 just like a oil pan drain plug, but when in doubt just use a short handle stubby wrench you should be good, not a 3-foot breaker bar!
You didn’t show the most important part - pulling out the tube fitting and the old thermostat!
Very nice video. Clear illustrations of steps you took. Sometimes the mount has to be removed and sometimes not. I think it depends on the age of vehicle (in years) when the rubber dries out and shrinks and hardens. The Part 2 video shows more and is also good. After they fixed the initial issues with the variable valve timing, this has been an exceptionally reliable powertrain. A bitch in my opinion to work on. For so much of the stuff you really need to remove the whole thing from the car to work on it. (As the factory manual says). I like that you wore gloves a lot to keep your hands clean. I do the same thing. BTW the water pump is a lot more work.
Took me 30 minutes to replace thermostat. No need to remove anything but Tension pully. Motor mount stayed in place.
It's basically setup like a lexus. 2 hours to replace something that normally takes like 10-20 minutes lol
Same engine so would expect no less. Hardest part is putting the belt on these things
Ive never seen such a clean under carriage on a car before!.........
Nicely done! Very thorough.
I did the job today. It was actually pretty easy, took me about three hours to replace the thermostat and do the flush and get everything put back together...Though my cousin is not going to be happy because after i got done and cranked it up..i can hear the shaft, bearings or whatever in the water pump, which isnt good. Coolant is also leaking out of the water pump so im pretty sure it has a bad seal. I dont have time to do that for her so i told her she could get it done at the dealership for around $350.
Yeah, it sounds like a bad water pump, but what you did should not have caused it. Did you notice that it was making noise and leaking water before you worked on it?
it was never started before i got it. i went to look at it day before yesterday, never cranked it, and she brought it here yesterday. i never took any of the pulleys off except the idler pulley as described behind the water hose flange. it runs fine, just makes one hell of a racket. and has water coming out from the water pump. To be honestt eh water appears to be coming from the main crank shaft pulley which is worrisome. If theres water in the block...she blew it up last week driving it hot. either way its turned into a job for a toyota mechanic..
I wonder if having air in the system can do that? Or maybe using the wrong fluid 🤷♀️ Remember you have to bleed the system of any air using the bleeder valve.
Really good video. Hopefully I'll make more. Thank you
Thank you, MRM. Now I know where the cylinder block drain cock plugs are on a 2GR-FE engine. Too bad I could not find them on the 2008 Lexus ES350 Repair Manual (same engine as the 2006 Avalon).
Thank you for the video, awesome
Thank so much
Hey. I’m working on this same pos is haha: This is awesome stuff. Tell me. I have fluid pouring out so is that a busted plug I believe it is and how should I repair this I have the radiator out and new one is going in?? Thank you.
Thx for the out look.
Which way did yyou turn the idler pulley bolt clock wise or counter clock wise I'm afraid I'm going to break a bolt
Counter clockwise
Future. Videos. Tripod.
My car isn't running hot but resaroe is bubbling
it doesnt look like you had to remove the motor mount, was it absolutely necessary?
No, you don't have to remove the motor mount.
ok i didnt think so..my cousin brought her car to my drive-way today...ive got to do this exact job tomorrow..thanks for the video!...though now that you say it was a PITA..im rethinking offering to do it for free :P
Hey brother I have a quick question I have a 2008 Toyota Avalon and undecided whether I want to change the transmission fluid my vehicle has currently 163,000 miles and I do not know when the owner previous owner that is changed it or if he did I’ve been advised not to do it due to the debris and the risk of transmission messing up and somebody else mentioned it’s OK for me to do it because it has a filterInside so I shouldn’t worry about the debris please advise thank you In advance
I think that it would be safe to drain what is in the pan, and then refill. Wait a few weeks, and if the trans seems fine, do it again. After doing this 3 times, you will have replaced most of the trans fluid in a safe manner that should not cause any damage
I did mine on 180k, just drain and fill. It worked flawlessly. Just make to measure drained oil and put back exact amount
Any torque spec on putting the coolant drain bolts back in? Or anything special with those? Or just snug them up and call it good?
There may be a specified torque for them, but I just went by feel.......good and snug. You can check them with the engine running to make sure that they are not leaking..
Yeah they're probably like 17 or 20 just like a oil pan drain plug, but when in doubt just use a short handle stubby wrench you should be good, not a 3-foot breaker bar!
Complete cooling flush and thermostat replacement??? You didn't show any of the work, very misleading at best!!
If you can't do a coolant flush and thermostat change after watching this video, you should not be working on your vehicle.
If you have even a small degree of mechanical skill, this video is a perfectly effective guide.
Is this the same for 2015 Toyota Avalon?
Probably not, but I really don't know. Is it even the same motor?
MRM it looks very similar but not perfectly same
Fail-Safe thermostats suck. They always fail! BTW, nearly any thermostat will fail in the open position.
Yeah it doesn’t pay to save a few bucks in a part that is cheap in the first place. Buy Original!
Yeah ... that's what I thought. Autozone pushed it... but ima give this mofo back and get oem