I just did the same job on a 09, didnt have to loosen the drivers side motor mount to have clearance for the water pump to go in and out, all I did was take the plastic cover off of sum electrical box that sits under the motor mount that was taken out... easy peasy japanesy.... you video was alot of help tho...thank you
I had to comment again to express my gratitude for your post. This video was my companion as I replaced the water pump. Once you get realistic about removing the motor mounts on the Lex everything is simple. I really took my time and was meticulous in my approach to this job. I am no longer intimidated and enthused. Cordless impact wrench and cordless ratchet were essential.
When you think you have all the tools .....you don't. You will need Deep Metric Sockets...10, 12, + 14 Having the ability to lengthen a ratchet was also important so I used some conduit which gave me the ability to crack the bolts. Get a set of socket extensions as well. To get the belt back on I struggled. I ended up removing the idler pulley and then put it on last after I had the belt in place and tension on the tension pulley. My 2007 Camry is a nice car just a pain to work on. Your video was awesome and I couldn't have done it without you.
I save a tremendous amount of time and effort with my electric ratchet wrench and impact drivers. Another useful tool is a long handle indexed reverse flex head ratchet wrench set.
This is a beyond ridiculous water pump R&R job. A true expose' of over engineering in a bad way. Great video. I am happy with the time it took to make this relatively concise video for the unsuspecting public DIYers . Good job.
I am so glad I found this video. I looked at my Haynes manual and it says I need to remove the engine and transaxel. I thought I was screwed! Removing those engine mounts and jacking allow all the access needed. Pretty cool!
@@hardlymovingpro only reason I could figure for the thumbs down might would be the aftermarket pump and the chain pulley holder. Seems that one with a rubber strap rather than a metal to metal would be safer to use so the belt tracked don't get bent. Also while the one may have a 1 year vs lifetime warranty, the hassle of tearing it all back down if the gates fails would be worth spending the extra money on OEM. Great job either way in the labor portion of the video.
@@jasonsims007 Thanks for your post. I have other videos using OEM parts with thumbs down. Other reasons could be: didn't use a torque wrench; didn't provide diagram of the work area; used power tools; didn't state the size socket I was using; video was moving too fast; didn't like the narration; didn't like the lighting; didn't like the intro; can be anything you can imagine. I figure a good video will get 1 thumbs down for every 20 thumbs up. That's 95% which is good enough for me. A chain strap wrench will not bend or mar the belt surface of water pump pulley cup. Haven't had good luck with rubber strap wrenches. They can't take the torque and give too much.
Just wanted to say thanks, I followed your video and was able to change the water pump on my Camry , Went pretty smoothly, well the only problem I had was that I couldn’t get the chain wrench that I had around the water pump pulley because there’s maybe between a quarter/ and third of an inch space between the water pump pulley and the pulley below it, and the chain wrench I had, had a chain that was almost a half inch thick so it wouldn’t even slide in there, so I did as you said some people did and removed the water pump pulley while the belt was still on.
it is a hole between two bolts, just need to put a pin in to lock the pulley, the holes for tool spanner ,just use a pin still work , ex tensioner lock pin or bolt.
Your video was such a blessing! Thanks for taking the time to make this. I was able to follow your instructions and successfully replace my waterpump. I couldn't have done it without your very thorough video. Thanks again!
This video helped a lot! Thank you for taking the time to make the video!! Working outside, in less than ideal conditions, it took me about 6 hours total. I have an AWD Highlander so it's a little different. If anyone plans to try this at home, the best advice I can give... Lift the engine about 4" on the passenger side before you even attempt to take anything apart that attaches to the belt. Trying to get the bolts out of the engine side of the upper mount is the worst part of the entire job! The actual water pump bolts are the 2nd worst. Good Luck!
@@hardlymovingpro I got that taken care of, I'm stuck at 4:12, I don't have hose clamp pliers, trying to find an alternative since it's so late and everywhere is closed!
Thank you very very much for creating this content! I was able to change my water pump, thermostat, belt and radiator hoses while watching your water pump replacement instructions. My vehicle is a 2014 Sienna and like you said the procedure was very similar. I also used some of your other videos to change the timing belt, water pump, cam seals and crank seal on my 03 Camry (1MZ FE). You saved me a substantial amount of money and I appreciate that greatly! Thanks again!
I'm having this done by a mechanic. I can no longer do this due to lack of tools and my age. Would try if I was younger though. Great video and I'm saving it too. Getting it priced out now.
No doubt, this is the best video on showing how to replace GR-FE water pump. Q1> Did you replace thermostat? Q2> Did you loose the driver-side engine mount? Q3> Did you just jack up the engine through oil pan? Thank you!
@@hardlymovingpro the metal water inlet house/ housing (10:17)that contains the thermostat, if it’s leaking from the joint, do I just replace the gasket or do i have to replace the entire thing? Mines leaking from the joint showing in 10:26Thanks
Thank you for this. I read that the common problem with 2GR-FE engines is with the water pump. My Toyota Venza V6 AWD has over 100k miles and I only replaced the spark plug, serpentine belt and wheel bearings but this might be in the horizon.
Thank you so much for your video, I was able to replace water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt on my 2008 toyota sienna, which my mechanic said it’s a $700 job. Well , through your video, I did it myself and saved $400, I spent $275 for all the parts I needed,..there’s one thing though, I was able to remove the water pump pulley while the belt is still on the pulleys since I don’t have the chain and the plier you used. I drove my van for 2 hours, it did not overheat, and the temperature gauge stayed put in the middle. Thanks, again, and please, continue uploading how -to videos. 👍👍👍😊😊😊
Nicely done. My sister in laws van just started the water pump rattle. So did Toyota fix the problem with the water pump? What brand is better? if you know. Thanks for the video
No problem for Toyota to fix. Water pumps do wear out and eventually require replacement. OEM pump provider for Toyota is Aisin. GMB as well as Gates are good substitutes.
You'd need to get a repair manual for the vehicle to obtain torque specs. I snug them down using an extended 3/8" ratchet wrench. That's good for around 30 lbs of torque. You can use thread lock liquid on the threads for extra comfort.
Hey guys dont forget that for the water pump, some of them you will need to apply the blue threadlocker. As you pull off the 16 bolts, check to see which ones had it on and reapply to the same bolt that goes into the same thread
That's a good point but I think it's sealant not threadlocker. I prefer coating the threads that have remnants of sealant with RTV. Good idea to wirebrush the old sealant before coating with new sealant.
Thanks so much for this video. I was able to do this on my 2009 Sienna V6 and it is basically exactly the same. Only the top engine mount is a tiny bit different. I was able to do it without jacking up the engine, just have to remove the water pump pulley with the water pump itself.
Your video helped a ton take the water pump out. Did you end up using thread sealants on the 12mm bolts on the water pump? When I removed mine, all the 12mm bolts have it on the threads (grey gummy stuff). The manual I found only mentioned loctite 242 (blue) on two of the 10mm and nothing else on the others.
Good question. RTV is used on some water pump mounting bolt threads when the engine block bolt holes leads to a coolant passage. So yes ... I apply RTV on those 12mm bolts.
Can you share what grade you used? Seems like permatex is a popular choice. There's a high temp one which comes in white tube, and a grey one that comes in a grey tube.
I searched all over for an answer to this same question. The Car Care Nut video on this very same repair said remove any globs on the tip of the bolts, after that he said that the bolt is 'ready to go.' So I removed the globs and reused them just as they came out. If it fails I'll update here.
Thanks very much for your excellent video and explanation of the process. It gave me the confidence to try the job, which I was able to do with no problems. Our van had 220 k and I'm trying to get 300k out of it. Kind regards, JD
Thanks and you are correct! If the water pump's contact surface is clean and you use a new stainless steel gasket, RTV won't be necessary. But you may want to wire brush off any residual sealant on the 12 mm mounting bolts and apply new RTV to the threads.
Awesome video! Only question I have are torque specs on bolts. I was able to find most of them but do you know what the torque specs are on both of the engine mounts?
Honestly I just tighten them down with a long handle ratchet wrench. They generate enough torque to keep you worry. You can always apply locktight to the threads for extra measure.
You made it look simple! The jack with wood block was under the oil pan? And also - if you don't mind - the motor mount that has that stud with nut,.....you removed the nut....and you lifted it as high as you needed it to be. Did the engine bracket come up and off of the stud completely? I'm curious for two reasons....one, it will give me an idea of - how high - it was lifted, and.....I am also curious about if you had any difficulty lining it back up (to let it down....since the stud was straight up, and the engine was at an angle)?
Yes ... the wood block under the oil pan distributes the support weight and protects the oil pan from bending. . You don't need to lift the side motor mount completely off the stud...just enough to get the water pump pulley off. If you do completely lift the stud off the side motor mount, you'll need a extra pair of eyes and hands to help coordinate and gradually (very slowly dropping the hydraulic jack) align the stud (the stud can be slightly bent towards the hole) to the side motor mount bracket hole. Once the stud is partially in the hole, releasing tension on the hydraulic jack will drop the bracket hole onto the stud completely. Hope this helps, thanks for the good questions and good luck with the repair!
@@hardlymovingpro One last question.....It's hard sometimes with videos on You tube to get an idea about - just how long (did the whole job take) from start to finish? Oh and, there is this little brass bleeder (that you can see in your video at 2:38, at the 12 o'clock position, about 1/4 of the way down from dead center. It's on the pipe that the 5/8" hose connects to (that you had to remove), and this bleeder stand straight upwards. When I changed the antifreeze in this car previously, I opened that one, and poured the fluid into the radiator neck (no big funnel, but do appreciate what it can do) and continued pouring until fluid just started to come out of the bleeder, and then closed the bleeder, and put the radiator cap on. Ran the engine a while, and found that I did not have to add any more after that. And yes, I had lot's of heat. And yes, I do realize that on some engines you HAVE to use that funnel. Just saying on this one I did not. I have been thinking about the vacuum fill set-ups too, but so far did not need to do that. And overall, this was (is) and outstanding video....thank you again!
@@hardlymovingpro Oh and....just a PS on my last comment/question, regarding changing my antifreeze on this engine.....there are two other bleeders, one in front, and one in the rear. When I changed the fluid I opened all of them, and had the block as drained as it was gonna get. I mention that because I realize that by taking the water pump off, the engine is quite drained. And so me saying I changed the antifreeze, I believe I had the block just about as empty, or very close to where you were. And, as I said - on this engine (at least) opening the one top bleeder was all it took (did not need the tall, deep funnel), to get it completely full. Not that this info is worth much, or means that much - overall. A very small detail - only.
The first time I did the job, it took around 3 to 3.5 hours. It takes me now around 2 to 2.5 hours. When I refilled the cooling system after the water pump replacement, I did not open the bleed valve. But in retrospect, it's not a bad idea. I usually run the car till it reaches operating temperature (for the thermostat to open up and fill air pockets), let it cool down (for the engine to suck in fluid from the reservoir) then check the fluid level. The funnel I used in the video has worked out wonderfully for me since there's very little spill, can run the car and watch the air bubbles working their way out; and with the plunger, I can pour the excess fluid in the funnel into the reservoir or coolant container. I used the vacuum fill tool at the dealership which works very well. However, these tools are expensive and if you don't use it every other day, don't see how the cost justifies the benefit to save a little on time. Thanks for your positive comments and let us know how the job went!
As I mentioned before, using the funnel shown in the video combined with running the engine until warm was enough to push out the air bubbles without causing a coolant leakage mess from the filler neck.
Hi! Sir, please give me a comment. Will i have a chance to replace VVTI and timing chain at 2gr-fe, rav4 III 2007 ? Is there a chance that it will be enough space to takeout timing cover and VVTI, without dismount of whole engine ? May be if i lift left side of engine, like you did ?
Hi, excellent video. I have whistle sound on my avalon (2007-107k miles) which gets louder with RPMs going up. Do you think it is the waterpump or any other pullies? Any recommendations?
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak with one of your hoses in the engine compartment. While the engine's running, spray brake clean on hose(s) and listen for a change in the rpm's. That'll help you isolate the source of the leak and bad hose.
Thanks for making this video, I would’ve started the job and then found out I needed a E-six and A chain strap wrench that I didn’t have. What size chain wrench do I need?
sometimes you could loosen the wp pulley bolts using the tension of the belt with a quick jolt on the bolt. If that works you won't need a chain strap wrench.
it another four holes between the pulley four bolts, you can put a pin like tensioner lock pin or a bolt in it ,to use the pump to lock the pulley turn, the holes is for a special spanner to hold the pulley, some other make pump the same,hope this help.
You mentioned loosening/removing passenger side motor mount; then elevating engine. I have 2 questions that I hope you do not mind answering: - Where did you place your floor jack - under the oil pan(with a wooden block) or under the transmission(with a wooden block)? - Did you loosen/remove just the passenger side motor mount or also do the same to the one at the front and the one on the drivers side? Thanks for your time.
The engine is on the right side (starboard) and the transmission is on the left side (port or driver's side). We want to lift the right side to gain access to the water pump and pulleys. So you place a floor jack under the engine oil pan (with a wood block to distribute the weigh to not bend the pan). Before elevating, make sure the center engine mount bolt has been loosened or detached and remove the upper torque rod. The left side mount remains untouched. Good luck with the repair!
@@113tidbits Nope ... replace if the boot split or you hit a big pot hole that damaged the bearings and/or shaft causing wheel vibration. If you catch the boot split early, you can always reboot the axle. Here's the video link if interested: ua-cam.com/video/sd_cbY6toOA/v-deo.html
Great video! Now I am thinking about do this myself! 2015 toyota Sienna with only 50k and already have this water pump pully/Bearing grinding noise! What happened to Toyota reliability? Btw I got the milwaukee M12 ratchets and impacts for this ! Lol 😆
Have you seen the tensioners fail on this engine? I usually replace the serp belt tensioner when I'd doing the water pump. Is this one difficult to get to get at while you're already in there? Also, did you have to remove anything else (grounding strap, etc) to raise the engine? Great video!
Haven't encountered any failed tensioners. But replacing the tensioner bearing may be a good idea. When tilting the engine up you could unbolt the top front motor mount bolt; otherwise nothing else needs to be removed.
I had the same concern about the tensioner. Really, not so much the whole tensioner but the pulley in the tensioner. My is a 2013 sienna with 150K miles, and the bearing in this pulley sounds a bit dry now. But Toyota, or any part distributor I know of, wont sell just the tensioner pulley and the whole assembly sells for approx $200 and removal + replacement seems to be a really big job. I purchased the Iddler pulley and compared it with the tensioner pulley but they are different. Does anyone knows where to get a replacement tensioner pulley? Thanks
@@hebertosantana184 Nobody aftermarket or Toyota sells the tensioner pulley. I was able to go to an industrial bearing shop and get 2 new bearings for the pulley. 2 are inside the pulley held together with a metal sleeve on the inside. They are 6203 bearings if I remember. Bring the pulley to the store with you, the guy at the store made sure I got the right replacement bearings. I used a couple of sockets and a hammer to gently drive out the bearings and sleeve, then drive new ones in.
Is it necessary to put sealant on the stud that’s on the water pump if it comes already installed as in the Toyota brand ones and ASIN? I hate to take the brand new stood out only to find it’s already sealed and I find it hard to believe that they wouldn’t put sealant on it properly before shipping it out since it comes pre-installed
AISIN replied to an earlier question I asked them this via email and they responded back saying no sealant required it’s already sealed from the factory
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for such a quick reply. Im replacing the water pump on a 2015 Lex right now (3:24am) I just got every thing off and Im taking a break😊. No gasket maker/sealant is required on the water pump gasket?
@@hardlymovingpro im no mechanic. I found a water pump for $35 that would fit. Im about to give it ago myself Mechanic would probly try charge around 700. Hopefully it goes to plan And im thinking about buying a milwaukee side impact wrench like you have in this video
Hi. Was wondering if I could have some advice I managed to pull both idler pulleys off.. one at top. One at bottom left I seemed to have lost 1 idler plate cover (Its like a washer). I believe each pulley comes with a plate. One at the front and one at the back. Ive seemed to have lost 1 pulley cover. Do you think its neccessary to put back a pulley without 1 cover on it? Id have to buy another pulley complete just to get the cover! Ive looked high and low for it. In the engine bay to see if this little plate washer dropped anywhere. Cant find the damn thing.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the reply. I have to find a similar diametre width washer. I think it would come pretty close. Thanks for that! I also managed to strip the bolt head on one of the idler pulley bolts aswell and had to use a bolt extraction kit to remove it. Unfortuatley its a two week wait for a new bolt. So im thinking I can weld nut onto the damage bolt head and use it that way. I dont know of anywag around it.
@@hardlymovingpro okay so this is where im at Car is put back together with a washer I found at depot store. Screeling like CRAZY. Now the belt is smoking and car is rough idling terribly. When i loosen the idler pully with the make shift washer the screel decreases and increases. Ive even tried to run it with no cover plate Still scrreching like crazy. Very ODD. PULLY is moving freely in my hand off the car showing me that its not seized. But upon accelration the squeeling gets higher and higher and then the belt starts to smoke. Toyota australia has told me 5 weeks from JAPAN to get the cover plate. Any ideas at all? Bearing is free spinning off the car so its not seized. The only thing i can think of is that it definatley needs the idler plate cover to operate and spin freely while on the engine. Any ideas at all?
The same results can be accomplished in removal of the W.P pulley by loosening it's bolts prior to removing the serpentine belt. I tightened the bolts using a ratchet and a pry bar strategically.
good video,I did other way,don't need to move the bottom engine mount nut,you just need to remove two 10mm nuts from the rear cylinder head front plastic cover,the aluminum can remove from the back with two rear bolts with it. about the water pulley 4 bolts ,just need to put a pin to a hole between two of the pulley bolts to lock the pulley. I need to replace the belt tensioner too, need to remove the air conditioning pump and alternator.
Can't say. What I can say is if the pump's bearings are bad, the car would be making noise all the time. You can listen for bearing grinding noise by placing your ear on one end of a metal bar and the other end of the bar pressed against pump housing.
Cam phasers ... get it fixed right away, or you will be buying a new motor in a year ... don't ask me how I know ... and on a 2008, there are 2 oil lines (one top one bottom front) that need to be changed, hopefully before they spray the oil out while driving on the highway - and you can buy a new motor again. The new front lower lines are metal, and a little pain to put in sometimes. My new motor and install only cost 6k - so I'd seriously think about that little rattle when starting, and those lines too, if they weren't a recall and done already. The later models are already fixed though.
And, that was a 2008 highlander, now with over 200k on it, and working on replacing the water pump (this will the the 3rd pump - ours last about 80k usually?)
@@blanko8463 What that's weird my last 3.5 powered car 06 Rav4 had 220k miles orginal water pump. Got an 13 ES 350 should be able to go 200k Miles on orginal water pump. 08 Camry did the same with over 200k miles..water pumps should go 200k miles usually.
One thing about jacking the engine, Remember there is another engine mount on the other side, the left side. If you raise the engine too much you could damage the studs on the other mount and/or bend them. I would be very careful how much lifting I would do. I know this because I did damage the right side while installing a control arm on the left side and had to lift the engine to remove the mount, when doing the right side the studs were a bit bent and were a pain to get back in, I may actually have to replace the mount eventually.
Close to 100,000 miles and over 8 years old. I'd say the water pump is the weakest part of the Toyota V6 GRFE engines. On the V6 MZFE engine they last over 150,000 miles.
Hardly Moving Productions My 2014 Camry has a noise(like a ringing bell and like some bad crankshaft) from the Water Pump and is increasing. The car only has 66,000 miles and it doesn’t leak, overheat or anything but I think the bearing is going out. Can I adjust something or should I just change the bearing?. Thanks for this great video. It was the water pump. Not a piston slack as some people say. This video give you the perfect idea and instructions for that work. Make sure you have good tools because I didn’t. Painful.
@@hardlymovingpro: Shame the Owner Didn't Do This @ T.Belt Service@ 90,000-95,000 mls.More Money Out If His Pocket. Hope Gates Makes One for My 04 ES 330, Gates Belts Are Great,As Long as They Don't Come From China,Understand They Have A Plant There,& Heard There Was An Issue W/ Some from There That Had Incorrect Ribs on the Belts.
If the pump kit came with a paper element gasket, then use RTV. Otherwise the metal OEM gasket has a rubber liner in the inner edges that seals against cool leakage ... Works very well!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for your quick reply. I'm planning to buy this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A0BT38/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Does it look like a paper element gasket or the metal OEM type?
@@hardlymovingpro ....I'm doing one right now...🙂...been a few since I did one and I used your video to refresh my memory... great Video!!!👍👍👍...thank you 😊
I have replaced water pumps on various Pontiacs and it was the thermostat(because it went bad too)that was the "B" to remove. Then I had the same problem on a Lexus ES350 and that was when I said "F" it and let someone handle it. It was not tedious nature of the replacement, or the removing the belt it was the whole thing about having to raise the damned engine up to access the part-RIDICULOUS! I knew if I had attempted this repair-I would have gotten into trouble and it would end up costing much more than just finding a reasonable mechanic.
Toyota made this job unnecessarily hard. You made a nice clear video for it tho. Great job.
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro 😮
I just did the same job on a 09, didnt have to loosen the drivers side motor mount to have clearance for the water pump to go in and out, all I did was take the plastic cover off of sum electrical box that sits under the motor mount that was taken out... easy peasy japanesy.... you video was alot of help tho...thank you
Good job and thanks for sharing!
I wa looking b at that last night fr
I had to comment again to express my gratitude for your post. This video was my companion as I replaced the water pump. Once you get realistic about removing the motor mounts on the Lex everything is simple. I really took my time and was meticulous in my approach to this job. I am no longer intimidated and enthused. Cordless impact wrench and cordless ratchet were essential.
Glad it all worked out for you, good luck with future repairs and thanks for your post!
@@hardlymovingpro you are most welcome.
When you think you have all the tools .....you don't.
You will need Deep Metric Sockets...10, 12, + 14
Having the ability to lengthen a ratchet was also important so I used some conduit which gave me the ability to crack the bolts.
Get a set of socket extensions as well.
To get the belt back on I struggled.
I ended up removing the idler pulley and then put it on last after I had the belt in place and tension on the tension pulley.
My 2007 Camry is a nice car just a pain to work on.
Your video was awesome and I couldn't have done it without you.
I save a tremendous amount of time and effort with my electric ratchet wrench and impact drivers. Another useful tool is a long handle indexed reverse flex head ratchet wrench set.
I guess the 4 cylinder engines are easier to work on.
This is a beyond ridiculous water pump R&R job. A true expose' of over engineering in a bad way. Great video. I am happy with the time it took to make this relatively concise video for the unsuspecting public DIYers . Good job.
Thanks for watching! Dealers are quoting over $1,400 to replace it while we're talking around 3 hrs labor for me!
I am so glad I found this video. I looked at my Haynes manual and it says I need to remove the engine and transaxel. I thought I was screwed! Removing those engine mounts and jacking allow all the access needed. Pretty cool!
Thanks for your comment and glad it all worked out for you!
Just finished the job on our Sienna, thank you for the video! It helped me a lot.
Thanks for sharing and good for you!
This video is pretty much flawless. Very detailed. Well recorded. Audio was great.
Above all, very helpful.
Thank you for uploading!
Thanks for your compliment and post! In spite of your positive critique, still got thumbs down. Go figure.
@@hardlymovingpro only reason I could figure for the thumbs down might would be the aftermarket pump and the chain pulley holder. Seems that one with a rubber strap rather than a metal to metal would be safer to use so the belt tracked don't get bent. Also while the one may have a 1 year vs lifetime warranty, the hassle of tearing it all back down if the gates fails would be worth spending the extra money on OEM. Great job either way in the labor portion of the video.
@@jasonsims007 Thanks for your post. I have other videos using OEM parts with thumbs down. Other reasons could be: didn't use a torque wrench; didn't provide diagram of the work area; used power tools; didn't state the size socket I was using; video was moving too fast; didn't like the narration; didn't like the lighting; didn't like the intro; can be anything you can imagine. I figure a good video will get 1 thumbs down for every 20 thumbs up. That's 95% which is good enough for me. A chain strap wrench will not bend or mar the belt surface of water pump pulley cup. Haven't had good luck with rubber strap wrenches. They can't take the torque and give too much.
Just wanted to say thanks, I followed your video and was able to change the water pump on my Camry , Went pretty smoothly, well the only problem I had was that I couldn’t get the chain wrench that I had around the water pump pulley because there’s maybe between a quarter/ and third of an inch space between the water pump pulley and the pulley below it, and the chain wrench I had, had a chain that was almost a half inch thick so it wouldn’t even slide in there, so I did as you said some people did and removed the water pump pulley while the belt was still on.
Glad it all worked out for.you!
it is a hole between two bolts, just need to put a pin in to lock the pulley, the holes for tool spanner ,just use a pin still work , ex tensioner lock pin or bolt.
Your video was such a blessing! Thanks for taking the time to make this. I was able to follow your instructions and successfully replace my waterpump. I couldn't have done it without your very thorough video. Thanks again!
Glad it worked out for you!
This video helped a lot! Thank you for taking the time to make the video!! Working outside, in less than ideal conditions, it took me about 6 hours total. I have an AWD Highlander so it's a little different.
If anyone plans to try this at home, the best advice I can give... Lift the engine about 4" on the passenger side before you even attempt to take anything apart that attaches to the belt. Trying to get the bolts out of the engine side of the upper mount is the worst part of the entire job! The actual water pump bolts are the 2nd worst. Good Luck!
Thanks for sharing.
Running into this problem as we speak! I have a '12 AWD Limited so mine is a little more cramped than the Camry!
You'll have to tilt the engine up for more clearance.
@@hardlymovingpro I got that taken care of, I'm stuck at 4:12, I don't have hose clamp pliers, trying to find an alternative since it's so late and everywhere is closed!
Harbor Freight. They sell hose pliers. Cheap.
Wow..your video is so well made..alot work..that's what I'll be doing..thanks for being so detailed and no music
You bet!
Thank you very very much for creating this content! I was able to change my water pump, thermostat, belt and radiator hoses while watching your water pump replacement instructions. My vehicle is a 2014 Sienna and like you said the procedure was very similar. I also used some of your other videos to change the timing belt, water pump, cam seals and crank seal on my 03 Camry (1MZ FE). You saved me a substantial amount of money and I appreciate that greatly! Thanks again!
You're welcome! Glad it helped and great job!
I'm having this done by a mechanic. I can no longer do this due to lack of tools and my age. Would try if I was younger though. Great video and I'm saving it too. Getting it priced out now.
Understand. Dealers are charging around $700. Independents around $500?
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah, I figured, dealers are much more profit oriented.
Excellent video! Detailed, especially on the alignment stud!
Thanks!
No doubt, this is the best video on showing how to replace GR-FE water pump. Q1> Did you replace thermostat? Q2> Did you loose the driver-side engine mount? Q3> Did you just jack up the engine through oil pan? Thank you!
Thanks! Thermostat wasn't replaced. Driver side mount not loosened. Jack up via oil pan.
@@hardlymovingpro May you Also tell me the part number for the o-ring? i saw you used a green one. thx
@@ask43242flight O ring should be included with the replacement pump.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you!
@@hardlymovingpro the metal water inlet house/ housing (10:17)that contains the thermostat, if it’s leaking from the joint, do I just replace the gasket or do i have to replace the entire thing? Mines leaking from the joint showing in 10:26Thanks
Thank you for this. I read that the common problem with 2GR-FE engines is with the water pump. My Toyota Venza V6 AWD has over 100k miles and I only replaced the spark plug, serpentine belt and wheel bearings but this might be in the horizon.
Stay ahead of a potential failure on the road. With over 100k on your car, replace it. It's called PM (preventative maintenance).
Thank you so much for your video, I was able to replace water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt on my 2008 toyota sienna, which my mechanic said it’s a $700 job. Well , through your video, I did it myself and saved $400, I spent $275 for all the parts I needed,..there’s one thing though, I was able to remove the water pump pulley while the belt is still on the pulleys since I don’t have the chain and the plier you used. I drove my van for 2 hours, it did not overheat, and the temperature gauge stayed put in the middle. Thanks, again, and please, continue uploading how -to videos. 👍👍👍😊😊😊
Hey good for you and great story!
You have helped so many people with this video!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Great job, well and easy explained. Best video I ever watched to help me with getting the job done!!! Thank you,Sir!
Thanks for your post and glad you found this video to be helpful! If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, awesome job, all the other videos kind of skimmed by the whole lifting the engine step, which is where im currently stuck
Yes ... tilting the engine gives you the room the remove the w/p pulley and makes the job go faster and easier ... IMHO.
Great video. This REpair made me a little less confident in my abilities. I think I'll sit this one out... depending on the shop cost.... salute
Dealers are charging big $$$'s for this replacement. About the same as a timing belt job.
Thank you so much! Mine was a little different but this gave me the confidence in changing it out!!
Glad I could help!
Nicely done. My sister in laws van just started the water pump rattle. So did Toyota fix the problem with the water pump? What brand is better? if you know.
Thanks for the video
No problem for Toyota to fix. Water pumps do wear out and eventually require replacement. OEM pump provider for Toyota is Aisin. GMB as well as Gates are good substitutes.
Great video, I’m about to tackle this job, your explanations are awesome!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for the vid it is very helpful the process seems straight forward. What are the torque specs for the pulleys when replacing them?
You'd need to get a repair manual for the vehicle to obtain torque specs. I snug them down using an extended 3/8" ratchet wrench. That's good for around 30 lbs of torque. You can use thread lock liquid on the threads for extra comfort.
So many happy comments here, keep up man.
Thanks!
Hey guys dont forget that for the water pump, some of them you will need to apply the blue threadlocker. As you pull off the 16 bolts, check to see which ones had it on and reapply to the same bolt that goes into the same thread
That's a good point but I think it's sealant not threadlocker. I prefer coating the threads that have remnants of sealant with RTV. Good idea to wirebrush the old sealant before coating with new sealant.
Thanks so much for this video. I was able to do this on my 2009 Sienna V6 and it is basically exactly the same. Only the top engine mount is a tiny bit different. I was able to do it without jacking up the engine, just have to remove the water pump pulley with the water pump itself.
Hey great ... congratulations! Next time I'll try removing the pump with the pulley attached. Good idea!
Great video. Clear. Well explained. Easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks for your post and support!
Is their a big difference in replacement procedure between the 2GRFKS and 2GRFE Highlander?
Never did a 2GRFKS.
Great very well done video. I have an 08 Sienna I’m getting ready to do water pump, thermostat and motor mounts on thanks for the help.
Thanks! Here's the video on how to replace the mounts: ua-cam.com/video/ny5MlZjeMFY/v-deo.html
Thanx for the video. Will it hurt the other motor mount to twist the engine up like this to one side? I am studying this job as I think it’s coming.
Lift just enough to get the side torque rod mount and water pump pulley out.
Great video. Very intuitive. Keep up the great job.
Thanks for your comment and support!
You don't have to interact with the timing belt to replace the water pump correct?
Nope. This engine has a timing chain.
nice video man thanks
You bet!
excellent video was very helpful yesterday I replaced the water pump on my highlander everything was very good Thankyou very much
Thanks and you bet!
Your video helped a ton take the water pump out. Did you end up using thread sealants on the 12mm bolts on the water pump? When I removed mine, all the 12mm bolts have it on the threads (grey gummy stuff). The manual I found only mentioned loctite 242 (blue) on two of the 10mm and nothing else on the others.
Good question. RTV is used on some water pump mounting bolt threads when the engine block bolt holes leads to a coolant passage. So yes ... I apply RTV on those 12mm bolts.
Can you share what grade you used? Seems like permatex is a popular choice. There's a high temp one which comes in white tube, and a grey one that comes in a grey tube.
My preference is the Permatex heavy duty gray RTV.
I searched all over for an answer to this same question. The Car Care Nut video on this very same repair said remove any globs on the tip of the bolts, after that he said that the bolt is 'ready to go.' So I removed the globs and reused them just as they came out. If it fails I'll update here.
Thanks very much for your excellent video and explanation of the process. It gave me the confidence to try the job, which I was able to do with no problems. Our van had 220 k and I'm trying to get 300k out of it. Kind regards, JD
Glad it helped!
Thanks! your video was a HUGE help! God bless.
You bet!
This video is awesome!!!! I love your technique!!!
You bet!
excellent video I need to change the water pump to my Highlander no need to use silicone for the gasket thanks for the video
Thanks and you are correct! If the water pump's contact surface is clean and you use a new stainless steel gasket, RTV won't be necessary. But you may want to wire brush off any residual sealant on the 12 mm mounting bolts and apply new RTV to the threads.
Hardly Moving Productions Thankyou very much
Awesome video! Only question I have are torque specs on bolts. I was able to find most of them but do you know what the torque specs are on both of the engine mounts?
Honestly I just tighten them down with a long handle ratchet wrench. They generate enough torque to keep you worry. You can always apply locktight to the threads for extra measure.
You made it look simple! The jack with wood block was under the oil pan?
And also - if you don't mind - the motor mount that has that stud with nut,.....you removed the nut....and you lifted it as high as you needed it to be. Did the engine bracket come up and off of the stud completely? I'm curious for two reasons....one, it will give me an idea of - how high - it was lifted, and.....I am also curious about if you had any difficulty lining it back up (to let it down....since the stud was straight up, and the engine was at an angle)?
Yes ... the wood block under the oil pan distributes the support weight and protects the oil pan from bending. . You don't need to lift the side motor mount completely off the stud...just enough to get the water pump pulley off. If you do completely lift the stud off the side motor mount, you'll need a extra pair of eyes and hands to help coordinate and gradually (very slowly dropping the hydraulic jack) align the stud (the stud can be slightly bent towards the hole) to the side motor mount bracket hole. Once the stud is partially in the hole, releasing tension on the hydraulic jack will drop the bracket hole onto the stud completely. Hope this helps, thanks for the good questions and good luck with the repair!
@@hardlymovingpro One last question.....It's hard sometimes with videos on You tube to get an idea about - just how long (did the whole job take) from start to finish?
Oh and, there is this little brass bleeder (that you can see in your video at 2:38, at the 12 o'clock position, about 1/4 of the way down from dead center. It's on the pipe that the 5/8" hose connects to (that you had to remove), and this bleeder stand straight upwards. When I changed the antifreeze in this car previously, I opened that one, and poured the fluid into the radiator neck (no big funnel, but do appreciate what it can do) and continued pouring until fluid just started to come out of the bleeder, and then closed the bleeder, and put the radiator cap on. Ran the engine a while, and found that I did not have to add any more after that. And yes, I had lot's of heat. And yes, I do realize that on some engines you HAVE to use that funnel. Just saying on this one I did not. I have been thinking about the vacuum fill set-ups too, but so far did not need to do that.
And overall, this was (is) and outstanding video....thank you again!
@@hardlymovingpro Oh and....just a PS on my last comment/question, regarding changing my antifreeze on this engine.....there are two other bleeders, one in front, and one in the rear. When I changed the fluid I opened all of them, and had the block as drained as it was gonna get. I mention that because I realize that by taking the water pump off, the engine is quite drained. And so me saying I changed the antifreeze, I believe I had the block just about as empty, or very close to where you were. And, as I said - on this engine (at least) opening the one top bleeder was all it took (did not need the tall, deep funnel), to get it completely full. Not that this info is worth much, or means that much - overall. A very small detail - only.
The first time I did the job, it took around 3 to 3.5 hours. It takes me now around 2 to 2.5 hours. When I refilled the cooling system after the water pump replacement, I did not open the bleed valve. But in retrospect, it's not a bad idea. I usually run the car till it reaches operating temperature (for the thermostat to open up and fill air pockets), let it cool down (for the engine to suck in fluid from the reservoir) then check the fluid level. The funnel I used in the video has worked out wonderfully for me since there's very little spill, can run the car and watch the air bubbles working their way out; and with the plunger, I can pour the excess fluid in the funnel into the reservoir or coolant container. I used the vacuum fill tool at the dealership which works very well. However, these tools are expensive and if you don't use it every other day, don't see how the cost justifies the benefit to save a little on time. Thanks for your positive comments and let us know how the job went!
As I mentioned before, using the funnel shown in the video combined with running the engine until warm was enough to push out the air bubbles without causing a coolant leakage mess from the filler neck.
Hi!
Sir, please give me a comment.
Will i have a chance to replace VVTI and timing chain at 2gr-fe, rav4 III 2007 ?
Is there a chance that it will be enough space to takeout timing cover and VVTI, without dismount of whole engine ?
May be if i lift left side of engine, like you did ?
I never replaced the timing chain on the 2GR-FE so I can't advise. For all that work, you'd be better off getting a JDM replacement engine.
Thanks for the video, couldn't have done this job without it. Was a bitch but saved me $400
Glad it worked out for you and saved $$$$!
Hi, excellent video. I have whistle sound on my avalon (2007-107k miles) which gets louder with RPMs going up. Do you think it is the waterpump or any other pullies? Any recommendations?
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak with one of your hoses in the engine compartment. While the engine's running, spray brake clean on hose(s) and listen for a change in the rpm's. That'll help you isolate the source of the leak and bad hose.
Shouldn't you had loosened pulling prior to taking belt off?
You can loosen the pulley nuts prior to removing the belt assuming the belt doesn't slip in the process.
How you know the water pump is bad ? I have some noise around the area , but not sure if the water pump or ?
Car runs and drive no problem
More than likely the pump's bearings are going bad. When they completely fail, that's when the coolant with gush out.
This video was perfect, job done. Thanks for the upload
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for making this video, I would’ve started the job and then found out I needed a E-six and A chain strap wrench that I didn’t have. What size chain wrench do I need?
sometimes you could loosen the wp pulley bolts using the tension of the belt with a quick jolt on the bolt. If that works you won't need a chain strap wrench.
Hardly Moving Productions will try it thanks.
@@rotfan77 good luck!
Toyotas don't ever break. haha Fun job!
Their water pumps do last over 100k miles but they do eventually give out.
Great video..thanks so much
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Would leaving the belt on let you remove the pulley bolt without using the strap wrench? Thanks for sharing and helping others.
I've seen people do that. My concern is the stress placed on the camshaft bearings.
Ops ... Wrong answer. Thought it was a timing belt question. Can leave on belt to loosen wp nuts.
it another four holes between the pulley four bolts, you can put a pin like tensioner lock pin or a bolt in it ,to use the pump to lock the pulley turn, the holes is for a special spanner to hold the pulley, some other make pump the same,hope this help.
very good
Thanks!
You mentioned loosening/removing passenger side motor mount; then elevating engine. I have 2 questions that I hope you do not mind answering:
- Where did you place your floor jack - under the oil pan(with a wooden block) or under the transmission(with a wooden block)?
- Did you loosen/remove just the passenger side motor mount or also do the same to the one at the front and the one on the drivers side?
Thanks for your time.
The engine is on the right side (starboard) and the transmission is on the left side (port or driver's side). We want to lift the right side to gain access to the water pump and pulleys. So you place a floor jack under the engine oil pan (with a wood block to distribute the weigh to not bend the pan). Before elevating, make sure the center engine mount bolt has been loosened or detached and remove the upper torque rod. The left side mount remains untouched. Good luck with the repair!
All cars v6 Engine fwd hard job
What year Camry was this? Was this a 2GR-FE V6? I have a 2009 Toyota Camry and need to do this. Thx!
It's a 2GR-FE. Year doesn't matter.
Just had this done on 2009 Lexus ES 350. Had the pump, thermostat, accessory belt and pulleys replaced at same time.
Not a bad idea to do.
@@hardlymovingpro should both cv axles be done at the same time?
@@113tidbits Nope ... replace if the boot split or you hit a big pot hole that damaged the bearings and/or shaft causing wheel vibration. If you catch the boot split early, you can always reboot the axle. Here's the video link if interested: ua-cam.com/video/sd_cbY6toOA/v-deo.html
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
@@113tidbits You bet!
Will a water pump bearing that is going bad cause a loud roaring noise?
Absolutely!
Very helpful. Tanks
You bet!
Great video! Now I am thinking about do this myself! 2015 toyota Sienna with only 50k and already have this water pump pully/Bearing grinding noise! What happened to Toyota reliability? Btw I got the milwaukee M12 ratchets and impacts for this ! Lol 😆
Good for you on the M12. There were a few years the pump didn't last 100k miles. I think they're better now. Aisin is the OEM manufacturer.
Good job sunny Jim....Thanks for the help...............
No problem!
thanks for video good to see someone willing to help with out trying be movie star , ,
And that annoying "Please Share, Like and Subscribe!" or "Smash that Like button!".
Have you seen the tensioners fail on this engine? I usually replace the serp belt tensioner when I'd doing the water pump. Is this one difficult to get to get at while you're already in there? Also, did you have to remove anything else (grounding strap, etc) to raise the engine? Great video!
Haven't encountered any failed tensioners. But replacing the tensioner bearing may be a good idea. When tilting the engine up you could unbolt the top front motor mount bolt; otherwise nothing else needs to be removed.
I had the same concern about the tensioner. Really, not so much the whole tensioner but the pulley in the tensioner. My is a 2013 sienna with 150K miles, and the bearing in this pulley sounds a bit dry now. But Toyota, or any part distributor I know of, wont sell just the tensioner pulley and the whole assembly sells for approx $200 and removal + replacement seems to be a really big job. I purchased the Iddler pulley and compared it with the tensioner pulley but they are different. Does anyone knows where to get a replacement tensioner pulley?
Thanks
@@hebertosantana184 Nobody aftermarket or Toyota sells the tensioner pulley. I was able to go to an industrial bearing shop and get 2 new bearings for the pulley. 2 are inside the pulley held together with a metal sleeve on the inside. They are 6203 bearings if I remember. Bring the pulley to the store with you, the guy at the store made sure I got the right replacement bearings. I used a couple of sockets and a hammer to gently drive out the bearings and sleeve, then drive new ones in.
replace the belt tensioner , need to remove the air conditioning pump and alternator.
Is it necessary to put sealant on the stud that’s on the water pump if it comes already installed as in the Toyota brand ones and ASIN? I hate to take the brand new stood out only to find it’s already sealed and I find it hard to believe that they wouldn’t put sealant on it properly before shipping it out since it comes pre-installed
AISIN replied to an earlier question I asked them this via email and they responded back saying no sealant required it’s already sealed from the factory
That sort of makes sense. The threads from the 12 mm bolts are probably picking up the timing chain cover RTV residue.
Is this engine the same as the Toyota 2001 v6 engine?
If it uses a timing chain; not a timing belt.
Awesome video thank you so much
Glad you liked it!
I owned a 2015 highlander , would this procedure be the same? Thank you?
Yes if it's a V6.
Hardly Moving Productions thank you
I'm trying to figure out why Mitchell1 labor guide gives 7 hours for this job!! Got one on the schedule next week and that sounds ridiculous to me!
That is ridiculous. Should be not more that 4 hours tops for a rookie. I can do it in around 3.
Daunting looking job.
Do the job a few times and it becomes do big deal.
What about locktite on the pulley bolts. Ive had them rock out before. There also was no mention of the pulley washers.
Never had them come loose on me and I've done a lot of replacements; but it doesn't hurt to use locktite if you want.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for such a quick reply. Im replacing the water pump on a 2015 Lex right now (3:24am) I just got every thing off and Im taking a break😊. No gasket maker/sealant is required on the water pump gasket?
@@justallah2785 Nope.
@@hardlymovingpro ❤
Awesome ! Great professional.
Thanks!
how long id this job take to do ? great video, by the way !
Thanks! Around 3 hours
What would the repair cost be for this?
A couple of years back a customer told me he had it done on his Camry for $700 at the dealership.
great video. well put together. thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Where is the top front engine mount like on the drivers side I’m very frustrated atm
There isn't on on the left side.
How many hours you think this took? Cheers
For me, around 3 or less hours.
@@hardlymovingpro im no mechanic. I found a water pump for $35 that would fit.
Im about to give it ago myself
Mechanic would probly try charge around 700. Hopefully it goes to plan
And im thinking about buying a milwaukee side impact wrench like you have in this video
$35 seems a little too cheap for that water pump. Get either Aisin or GMB brand. Good luck!
i am trying to figure why you removed the stud from the pump...
It got in the way of attaching a chain strap wrench. The wrench was used to prevent the pulley from moving when taking off the pulley nuts.
@@hardlymovingpro
got it thanks!
Very good, to the point, video.
Glad you like it!
Hi. Was wondering if I could have some advice
I managed to pull both idler pulleys off.. one at top. One at bottom left
I seemed to have lost 1 idler plate cover
(Its like a washer). I believe each pulley comes with a plate. One at the front and one at the back.
Ive seemed to have lost 1 pulley cover.
Do you think its neccessary to put back a pulley without 1 cover on it?
Id have to buy another pulley complete just to get the cover! Ive looked high and low for it. In the engine bay to see if this little plate washer dropped anywhere. Cant find the damn thing.
Had it happen to me as well. A large flat washer would work as a substitute.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the reply. I have to find a similar diametre width washer. I think it would come pretty close. Thanks for that!
I also managed to strip the bolt head on one of the idler pulley bolts aswell and had to use a bolt extraction kit to remove it. Unfortuatley its a two week wait for a new bolt. So im thinking I can weld nut onto the damage bolt head and use it that way. I dont know of anywag around it.
Get a bolt from a car in the salvage yard.
You only need a washer the diameter of the base of the pulley.
@@hardlymovingpro okay so this is where im at
Car is put back together with a washer I found at depot store.
Screeling like CRAZY.
Now the belt is smoking and car is rough idling terribly. When i loosen the idler pully with the make shift washer the screel decreases and increases.
Ive even tried to run it with no cover plate
Still scrreching like crazy. Very ODD.
PULLY is moving freely in my hand off the car showing me that its not seized. But upon accelration the squeeling gets higher and higher and then the belt starts to smoke.
Toyota australia has told me 5 weeks from JAPAN to get the cover plate.
Any ideas at all? Bearing is free spinning off the car so its not seized. The only thing i can think of is that it definatley needs the idler plate cover to operate and spin freely while on the engine.
Any ideas at all?
dude you're a beast. Strong as F
ill follow
Thanks!
That chain vise grip is the ticket, you can really hog down on those pulley bolts.
Glad you found it useful!
The same results can be accomplished in removal of the W.P pulley by loosening it's bolts prior to removing the serpentine belt. I tightened the bolts using a ratchet and a pry bar strategically.
Cảm ơn bạn chia sẻ cách thay bơm nước động cơ toyota GR FE v6
Bạn được chào đón và cảm ơn sự hỗ trợ của bạn!
good video,I did other way,don't need to move the bottom engine mount nut,you just need to remove two 10mm nuts from the rear cylinder head front plastic cover,the aluminum can remove from the back with two rear bolts with it.
about the water pulley 4 bolts ,just need to put a pin to a hole between two of the pulley bolts to lock the pulley.
I need to replace the belt tensioner too, need to remove the air conditioning pump and alternator.
Thanks for sharing
@@hardlymovingpro you welcome, need remove water pump and tensioner tomorrow, this my first time, bad Design ,doesn't like toyota.
I did the pump today, it have two 99% same pumps,the different is one of the hole fit 10mm bolt another hole fit 12mm bolt !
Can a bad water pump cause a start up rattle for a second? My car does that and I was told is water pump not cam phasers, is it possible?
Can't say. What I can say is if the pump's bearings are bad, the car would be making noise all the time. You can listen for bearing grinding noise by placing your ear on one end of a metal bar and the other end of the bar pressed against pump housing.
Cam phasers ... get it fixed right away, or you will be buying a new motor in a year ... don't ask me how I know ... and on a 2008, there are 2 oil lines (one top one bottom front) that need to be changed, hopefully before they spray the oil out while driving on the highway - and you can buy a new motor again. The new front lower lines are metal, and a little pain to put in sometimes. My new motor and install only cost 6k - so I'd seriously think about that little rattle when starting, and those lines too, if they weren't a recall and done already. The later models are already fixed though.
And, that was a 2008 highlander, now with over 200k on it, and working on replacing the water pump (this will the the 3rd pump - ours last about 80k usually?)
@@blanko8463 What that's weird my last 3.5 powered car 06 Rav4 had 220k miles orginal water pump. Got an 13 ES 350 should be able to go 200k Miles on orginal water pump. 08 Camry did the same with over 200k miles..water pumps should go 200k miles usually.
no. oil pressure is NOT holding the timing tensioner prob causing slack when not pumping oil(not running)
Jesus Christ😱😱😱 thats a lot of work... great video though..
That's why I've seen dealer invoices of $700 to replace the pump.
very nice
Thanks!
Also I notice you didn’t use RTV On the 12 mm bolts for the water pump I thought you’re supposed to use them so there’s no leaks
Found that they're really not necessary but doesn't hurt to put some on the threads.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks just did it and put RTV on all the 12s
Excelente!!
Thanks!
Is that on a Toyota avalon...that's what I have..2010 3.5
3.5 2GR-FE V6 found in the Camry, Avalon, ES350, RX350 and I believe Venza and RAV4.
do you have parts numbers for the two seals for the thermostat housing
one was a the oring on the pipe the other where the housing bolts to far corner
They usually come with the new water pump if the pump was purchased from a reputable parts manufacturer.
@@hardlymovingpro dang advanced auto is def not reputable lol but we already knew that
@@hardlymovingpro annoyingly they only gave me the main seal
@@death-hs4dh Should not buy a part like this from any retail auto parts supplier that's repackaged the part. You then do not know who made the part.
@@death-hs4dh Advance Auto is better than AutoZone ... IMHO.
One thing about jacking the engine, Remember there is another engine mount on the other side, the left side. If you raise the engine too much you could damage the studs on the other mount and/or bend them. I would be very careful how much lifting I would do. I know this because I did damage the right side while installing a control arm on the left side and had to lift the engine to remove the mount, when doing the right side the studs were a bit bent and were a pain to get back in, I may actually have to replace the mount eventually.
Makes sense. Also how much of lift you made could have been a factor
Nice thanks but this is nuts I did my 2000 Mercedes c230 in literally 10min this was 5 hour job for me
Well be happy you finished the job. Dealers are charging big $$$$'s
@@hardlymovingpro I know, I never take my cars to the shop I just can’t pay them to do it, I feel bad for people that have no choice such I rip off..
How many miles on it when the water pump failed?
Close to 100,000 miles and over 8 years old. I'd say the water pump is the weakest part of the Toyota V6 GRFE engines. On the V6 MZFE engine they last over 150,000 miles.
I'm replacing mine at 135k miles as preventive maintenance. You think i just got lucky or should I have waited?
Hardly Moving Productions My 2014 Camry has a noise(like a ringing bell and like some bad crankshaft) from the Water Pump and is increasing. The car only has 66,000 miles and it doesn’t leak, overheat or anything but I think the bearing is going out. Can I adjust something or should I just change the bearing?. Thanks for this great video.
It was the water pump. Not a piston slack as some people say. This video give you the perfect idea and instructions for that work. Make sure you have good tools because I didn’t. Painful.
@@hardlymovingpro: Shame the Owner Didn't Do This @ T.Belt Service@ 90,000-95,000 mls.More Money Out If His Pocket. Hope Gates Makes One for My 04 ES 330, Gates Belts Are Great,As Long as They Don't Come From China,Understand They Have A Plant There,& Heard There Was An Issue W/ Some from There That Had Incorrect Ribs on the Belts.
This engine (2GR-FE) uses a timing chain.
11:55 why that kind of funnel?
That's a Lisle spill free funnel. Link is provided in the video description area,.
@@hardlymovingpro no. why?
@@outoftime788it's to fill the coolant into the system and bleed all the air out at the same time
is rtv not recommended?
i mean on the gasket
If the pump kit came with a paper element gasket, then use RTV. Otherwise the metal OEM gasket has a rubber liner in the inner edges that seals against cool leakage ... Works very well!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for your quick reply.
I'm planning to buy this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A0BT38/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Does it look like a paper element gasket or the metal OEM type?
I remember when the water pump was on top of the engine 3 or 4 bolts and boom.
Ah ... the good old days. I.e. Chevy 5.7L V8. Still have to take off the fan shroud, the fan and the hoses.
Loosen the water pump pulley while the belt is still on....no need for the E 6 socket to remove that stud either
Thanks for sharing!
@@hardlymovingpro ....I'm doing one right now...🙂...been a few since I did one and I used your video to refresh my memory... great Video!!!👍👍👍...thank you 😊
I have replaced water pumps on various Pontiacs and it was the thermostat(because it went bad too)that was the "B" to remove. Then I had the same problem on a Lexus ES350 and that was when I said "F" it and let someone handle it. It was not tedious nature of the replacement, or the removing the belt it was the whole thing about having to raise the damned engine up to access the part-RIDICULOUS! I knew if I had attempted this repair-I would have gotten into trouble and it would end up costing much more than just finding a reasonable mechanic.
I hear you. Scratching my head first time I did this replacement!
190k on my 2009 rav4 v6. No trouble yet
Good for you!
Same motor as the Lexus IS250, just positioned differently
Isn't the IS250 a 2.5L V6? The GR-FE is 3.5.
@@hardlymovingpro correct.