How to Insulate a Basement Wall
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- In this video I show how to use Owens Corning FOAMULAR 3/4 in. insulation and furring strips to finish a basement foundation wall. After this is done you can add whatever finish wall product you would like such as drywall or osb. I will be doing a wood plank wall and will include a link to that video when it is done.
Here is a link to the finished wood plank wall! • $35 DIY Wood Plank Wall
Tools Used-
Makita Miter Saw- amzn.to/2aquoR2
Ridgid Table Saw- amzn.to/2ae95yP
Dewalt Drills- amzn.to/2aPqfDk
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A great tool for this project! amzn.to/2aPqfDk (affiliate link)
For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY
My favorite tool in my shop! www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=ZD0p1c21pRes&variant=43897274630383
before I take advice from a video I always check the comments to see everyone agrees with the process
Me too! There's always going to be a few trolls but if the majority of the comments are negative I know it's legit
I approve this method lol
Lmao yes
thank you for your video. One thing to make note. if you run your adhesive vertically up and down that way any moisture can work its way to the floor and not get trapped behind the panel by the adhesive run horizontally.
That makes sense...Thanks David for the advise for next time!
David Dougherty good advice.
So then would the solution be to run the all of the adhesive horizontally?
Jonny Sullivan no you don't want it to run. It has to dry and hold in place.
Do blobs
To everyone complaining about his r rating get a grip. I just did my basement using R-6 foam. Its 60-70 degrees down there all year long. Feels comfortable to me. To cold, dont go in my basement lol
I live in nyc, I’m cool with that temperature all year round lol
I have been searching for 2 hours for videos to show me how to do this! I knew somebody had to have done it before. THANK YOU! I don't want to fully finish this part of my basement, just to insulate it well. Rigid wall board is the most economical and mold resistant solution, but here (Canada eh) it has to be covered with thermal barrier (usually gypsum) for fire code. I don't have electrical or pipes in these walls, except in a corner, which will have a box around it. I don't want the trouble or expense of 2X4 framing on a surface I am only using for a workshop room. Only changes I'll make is thicker 2-3" foam board to get me to R10 (the silver backed one looks good), closed cell foam insulation to adhere it, applied in blobs to allow any condensation to move down, and a 1" gap at the floor to prevent rotting of gypsum if there is any water. I have great drainage on my floor, and occasionally some water seepage with the spring snow thaw. Rim joists I'll seal with flextra and then fit the foam and add closed cell spray foam sealant on the edge. This will save me hours and money and help me meet code and insulate. THANK YOU!
Glad I could help, You sound like you have a solid plan for your project. You have really thought it out well...good luck on it!
This is a good way to do it. I usually use the Ugle dry lock product on the concrete.. it’s nasty but effective
Just came across this helpful and informative video as I start my project. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for your opinion, beside i appreciate you shed and coop related things building programs . use it .
Nice very informative with no fluff. I subscribed!. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and the sub! I really appreciate it!!
Don't use caulk or construction adhesive, use expanding foam in a can. Use it to stick the foam to the foundation, and to glue each peace together along the seam.
Considering the block hopefully being filled with concrete and being only slightly porous to the inside, I think r-4 insulation is just fine for a BASEMENT. Not a downstairs apartment, just a basement. The framing technique is definitely more affordable and lighter duty than buying complete 2x4s or 2x6s and using some fat ass wall insulation, which also costs A lot of money. Well executed job I like how it turned out and putting frame work over the panels, opposed to in between or something,where wood can catch moisture from the block. Hope it’s turned out nice for you so far
Thanks for the comment! I know a lot of people have made comments about only r4 insulation, but each situation is different. I have a 1400 sq. Basement all with uninsulated brick walls. So I was cover about 5 percent with this project. I could have done r40 and my heating bills would still be the same with such a small area.. Thanks for watching!
Doesn’t the air gap take away from the r-value? The concrete should be sealed from the outside wall and if it’s not it shouldn’t be a finished basement. If it is sealed from the outside all that framing will do is wick moisture from the air because now it has cavities to draw in and if it’s sealed from the outside AND inside the water will still sit on the insulation and rot your framing and drywall eventually anyway… unless you do control the room with a dehumidifier or if you live in the right climate with very little rain if any at all.
I would never drill holes in the lower section of my basement walls that are below ground or lay wood directly on concrete since that's food for mold which in a little time you get that musty smell along with mold spores in the air.
Watch This Old House where they are using 1x3s horizontally and vertically. Verticals are attached 16" O.C. But it still gives an air gap.
Yeah, I think I watched that video as well before I did this. I guess they are the real experts!
Did this years ago before I finished my basement. Used 2” foam board and taped all the joints. On top of that I used 4” thick rock wool insulation between the studs. Now that the basement is done I don’t even need to heat the basement. The residual heat coming off the furnace is enough to keep the basement around 67-68 degrees plus my heating bill for the rest of the house dropped quite a bit due to the concrete basement no longer being a huge heat sink.
I estimate this cost me around $800 to do all this on approximately a 1k sq. Ft baseman’s.
Isn’t it frowned upon to put that foamboard directly against the concrete?
Just my opinion. Let me know if I'm wrong!
Doing research for my basement Zone 5.
Maybe good for insulation, but does little to moisture control as you make holes through foam and do not tape joints.
You end up with only R4 which is low for my Zone 5. I will go with R6 and 2x3 wall with R12 batts.
That sounds like a good way to do it. Most basements start off with nothing so anything will help. I think of r4 as it is 4 times better than it was before.
Highly recommended method for finishing basement walls. 1) drylock the walls 2) install 6 mil poly to sill plate and let hang down onto the floor 3) install a 2x4 studded wall 1 inch from block with ploy under the bottom plate and tap on plate to floor 4) insulate walls, no craft insulation just batts 5) drywall. I’ve been in business for 35 years and with consultation with insulation company and my architect and my own demo experience this is a great way to do it for the long haul. Good Luck
Sounds like a great way to do it!
Nah im good. No vapor barrier/plastic should be in basements. Traps moisture
Completely agree with this 👏 I never understood why anybody would use 1x4 , you can barely feel safe hanging drywall on that crap!
@@goose1498 He said drylock the walls, this is generally good to 20lbs hydrostatic pressure, which isn't a lot but if you have no hydrostatic pressure it's a non-issue and will block the moisture. houses will also have the outside blocks tarred over if it's still good it will also block moisture from the outside in. the wall away from the cemented wall provides airflow behind it. probably don't need the poly but meh.
@@goose1498 What do you use for a moisture barrier then? Framing or insulation in contact with the concrete will mold.
How do you deal with moisture like this? Most codes say to half a small gap between concrete and wall
Thank you. I found it very useful as I will be doing this in a few weeks. Just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for subscribing and good luck on your project!
@@chaddiy3512 , thank you. I will be using that product thanks to you. I can’t upload photos. But if I could I would. Merry Christmas 🎄
I’m doing a French drain inside then the membrane to cover the block wall which is 52 inches up from the floor. My third level is half in the ground block and studs on sill plate. I’m going to use 1” foam board glued to memebrane. Frame walls and go with rock wool no poly. Drywall.
What kind of membrane are you planning on using?
@@stevieb.1473 I believe it was a Delta MS brown colour
Love this , straight to the point. Thankyou. I have a question. If the the 2x4 are already on my wall, do I just go over the boards with my insulation and then glue and screw them in ? Or should I cut the insulation to fit in between the boards and glue them in?
That is a great question! If it was me, I think I would cut the insulation to fit between the 2 by 4s, but to be honest I'm not really sure. Hopefully someone else can chime in with some advice. Good luck Christy!
Late reply but if you have 2by4 already there use batt insulation very easy and cheap and way better r value
Problem is if the stud touches the walls then you have a place for mold to grow you want a air gap between the stud and concrete.
You don't want the batt insulation to touch the concrete wall.
Recommend using circular globs rather than back and forth lines to prevented water being retained on the foam board.
Good advice!
Can you run the glue in vertical lines rather then circular blobs??
Actually best practice is to be tight w/ no air gap. Reason for that is air circulation behind the panel can cause condensation from cold block above grade to warmer block below grade
That's almost a waste of time to only get an R4 value in the end. Should be 3-4 times that amount ideally. Check your local building codes to see what is required. Around here I believe it's R-12 minimum.
Add fiberglass insulation between the studs and you’ll be boiling
Although codes may differ, the R-values generally represent the sum of cavity insulation plus insulated sheathing. Basement wall insulation is not required in warm-humid locations.
He definitely should mention where he is at. If it's Canada R22
@@joewellindowd5664 Fiberglass in a basement below grade should be avoided. It loves moisture and so does mold.
@@erickgrimmer4544 Fiberglass is fine in a basement as long as it in touching the concrete walls and you have no vapor barrier.
What are the qualities of a good shed?
what about heat ducts and electrical still should build a 2 by 4 wall and insulate that as well you will not be disappointed
is that water around that pipe need to fix mold problem before you hide it
Nah...prep work takes too much time. Just slap up the finish surface and call it good. It'll be years before the home becomes unliveable due to mold and he'll be long gone by then!
By gluing to foam board there's no air gap.
This is true, but If you look at the videos from owens corning, they say to put the stuff right against the basement wall.
But they are still using either foam board adhesive or using white plastic anchors.
great video thanks
Nice one Chad, I have my whole shed with those breeze blocks (what we call them in UK), and to attach anything to the wall what i like to do is get some Concrete Screws and screw in, and its a nice tight fitting. I need to do some wall Insulation as its cold this time of year in the shed, it puts you off doing stuff. Well Done on the Video, looking forward to part 2.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks Barry! Breeze blocks you say...I just learned something new! I know what you mean about not wanting to do things in the cold. I live in a very cold climate(Minnesota), so the more insulation the better!
Thanks for this video! Just subbed!
Thanks for the sub!
Why is the 8x6 priced higher than the next larger shed?
Hi, I'm going to be closing up a sunroom that has no insulation at all. I was planning on insulating the 3 walls with r13 but leaving the attic and floor uninsulated. Do you think this will work out ok? I'm going to be using a portable AC-Heater unit that vents to the outside.
My understanding is that the attic is the most important place to insulate. The r13 in the walls should be fine though...good luck!
Does anyone know if this method can be used on garage concrete walls? Sloped bottom of the walls makes it extremely difficult for flat base board for 2x4’s
I am not trying to be too critical here but code in most cases is substantially higher R- value. Also a 1x4 along the top and bottom for the wall covering and to nail the base to. Also electrical code will require at least one outlet. This is why I would recommend a professional or you really need to do your homework. It's more involved than they make it seem.
Each wall requires at least one outlet? Even outside facing walls?
Code for outlets is generally 6ft from the entrance of the room and 12ft from there on. This would determine the code Compliance.
Thank u sharing this video.
Hopefully it was helpful Lisa!
Must live in a very hot place, only R4
This was actually in a cold place...Figured r4 was better then nothing!
with a 3" screw do you run the chance of penetrating clear through the cinder block? just wondering if that would cause water to come around the screw an cause problems?
I'm not an expert, but I never had any issues drilling into the block. There shouldn't ever be water in the block if you have proper drainage on the outside.
love it
Hell i went r10 ridgid framed 2x4s over that,then put r13 in the studs. Warmest part of our house for sure(66 built) highly considering having foam injected in the rest of the house. this guy went cheap
Did you use the xps rigid board?
did you notice a difference in temp after this?
I did not notice a difference. There was still a 60 ft concrete wall that would have had to be done as well to really notice any difference I'm guessing.
That was neat.
Thanks David!
Any thoughts on where to buy that tongue and groove foam board...? Nobody seems to carry it anymore... just square edges. Thanks!
Hello Victor, I got mine at Menards...not sure where you live, but I think they are a Midwestern big box store.
What about accessories?
How much does this cost
Hello Alex, I think it might of cost me around $100...it was while ago though so I can't really remember
Do you need to seal the basement wall first before insulating?
HI Lynn! I am not sure what you mean by "seal" it? The way I did it seemed to work fine, but I guess I will know in 20 years when I redo something and have to open the wall up :)
I think she means something like drylok coating to block out any moisture. That stuff is supposed to be good up to 20 psi. I coated my foundation wall down my stairs before adding pink foam and furring strips to finish off the walls.
no, he just wanted to show us how to use a glue gone.
yes please dont do it like this guy he knows nothing
@@sawyerramos3113 gun you moron
How much height is required for the basement to be a room?
I think you need atleast 7 ft
@@chaddiy3512 7 ft floor to cealing? Or tu 2x6?
@@chaddiy3512 thanks
here to read the pros comments and why I'll never really get this done correctly
I have learned that 10 different people will do a project like this 10 different ways...and they will all say the others did it wrong! :)
@@chaddiy3512 exactly 😂
If I was a potential buyer of this house, I'd be pissed to know the basement was done half assed with R-4 insulation. Not to mention the framing will leave the walls wavy as hell. Well executed job, but poor design process.
thanks for the video chad. i am Bout to start finishing my basement. i was wondering if the insulation you put in is around a future bathroom.
Good luck on finishing your basement! No, I don't have any plans to do a bathroom in my basement.
It takes a 6 Ft. this block wall to equal a standard 4" framed exterior wall (as far as the R Value is concerned). So in short, I would frame the wall and install 4" insulation to assure a properly insulated basement wall.
Hello, if you would like a higher r value you could just use 2 inch foam instead of half inch like I did. 2 inch foam is about the same r value as a 2 by 4 wall with batt insulation.
The product itself is good but not thick enough to act as a vapor barrier. You need to go with 2" XPS foam. Also to save on cost, instead of using the adhesive, buy a spray foam gun and use spray foam to adhere the board to the foundation.
Sergey fuck off dickhead😂 spray foam expands mutton breath
Such a mature, well thought out response.
you could have saved some money using Foamular 150 instead of 250 as you dont need the extra compressive strength
Great point Dan Smith!
I often though about doing this in my shop which is in my basement too how ever I have a wall that's 30 foot and another 10 foot wall that I would have to do but it would be more of a huge project cuz I would have to take everything out of my shop and take my lumber rack down as well
That would be a lot of insulation for you to do! I still have one really long wall in my basement that I am not sure if I will ever get insulated. Great to hear someone else with a basement shop!
yikes, those studs. i feel bad for the person coming behind you and tried to hang anything on those skinny things
FYI - Guys don't do what he is doing.
Basements need airspace between the walls and the floor to prevent the trapping of moisture.
With the foam insulation (which is R-4, which is worse than just about anything on the market), you are actually trapping moisture and the foam will likely form mold and be eaten through by standing moisture over time.
Typically you would install a subfloor first with some kind of air gapped underlayment underneath of it. There should be 1/2 inch of space from the subfloor to the wall. On top of that subfloor should be the wall frames, which are about 1inch from the wall with some kind of backing to protect it and hold insulation in place, such as typar.
In the frames, you should have insulation (R14-15 for 2x4 walls, R19-21 for 2x6 walls).
Then on the interior of the wall you can put a vapor barrier to further protect against moisture getting onto your dry wall / your interior, as well as prevent drafts.
With that frame work, you can simply install any wall/panel and flooring that you want. I recommend water-proof options, such as water proof vinyl, as if it floods at any point, you won't have cosmetic defects to worry about.
I'm looking to see upper level home done with this. I have moble home. my walls are only 2 1/2. I installed same foam panel. then plastic sheets over. then dry wall. I all so taped panel seams. my out side has thin aluminum sheeting. worked good for gun HUNTING. kept place warm. I'm wandering is this safe for humans to live in. would love feed back thank you.
Hi Dave, I think this stuff is safe to use pretty much anywhere. I have seen it used under foundations as well as ceilings depending on the situation.
Hi
R value of 4.. WTF? That's no where near code :/
Yeah your adhesive is going to cause moisture pooling. Also, lacking sufficient insulation. Foam board, frame, batt insulation, moisture barrier liner(plastic film)..
UA-cam blowing in insulation
There is a strong argument to be made that fiberglass shouldn't be below grade. Just fill the stud cavities with foam board surrounded by Great Stuff, and you don't have to worry about moisture.
all that money only to get an R4 value and walls that couldn’t support a shelf? Nope
This is a video of what not to do.
no No NO !!!
Whatever you do, dont take advice from this guy.
ya you might want to look at the bottom of the walls water leaking in :/ puts foam over it. then he drills into the block ,,,,, wicking water mold to follow
Ignore everything this guy says. Everything.
"Masonary" you say
It's the most popular sex position.
What a shitty reno. No room for electrical boxes unless they are very thin and then it wont hold the cubic inches where needed. Bottom plate of 2x4 isnt poly wrapped. No room to run wires horizontally. And doesnt contain receptacles at all. No vapour barrier either? Thats definately a reno to rip out for the new home buyer.
Pretty lame, if u r looking to learn something this guy will not help u if u dont already know what to do and can put his job in perspective