Hey dude, try running a bit longer welds. I know when i was first welding my e36 that i was scared that i'll burn through the panel and i didn't see shit through the mask so i made the same mistake as you did. Then i took 2 pieces of scrap sheet metal and practiced, attempted to burn through on purpose, etc.. and that let me get a feel for it and not be as nervous when i'm working blind. Also that e36 was hella rusty and i didn't have money for replacement panels so i made a lot of welds, i even chopped off rear shock mount and put in another one from a wrecked car lol.
Problem is that you warp your panels the more heat you put into them, thats why you mostly just spotweld. He also should try lowering the wire speed instead of turning up the power, as he is already burning through the metal.
I must disagree, with longer beads you introduce much mote heat and then you have to deal with warping, letting the heat spread to a part with short tacks is much better imo
@@oxygenium92 It depends to be honest, you are introducing a same amount of heat in both cases, it is just the amount of time you introduce it in. A small weld like this on a well heatsinked surface would have 0 problems from warping, i guarantee you that, especially since these e30's were built like tanks compared to today's cars. The problem with a lot of spot welds is that you much more run the risk of structurally weak welds, and god forbid he crashes this e30 this weld point is a very nice weak point. How weak you want to make it depends on integrity of your welds and your filler material, the sheet metal in this case. Also, tack welding like that all around makes the weld a lot harder to clean up and often leaves a lot of tiny holes which are dream come true for rust. Everything has it's own limits tho, so don't go out and run 20cm beads just because i told you to, i suggest you experiment on your own a bit and also look at some professional bodywork repair videos, you will see how they do it. Cheers!
@@FetteMacke Both are true, if you look at professional bodywork videos, you'll see them section the weld into smaller chunks, about 5-8cm in lenght, which they weld in one go and then swap to doing another spot to let this one cool down a bit. Plus, you are not welding paper man, it does not warp that easily, and if it does warp, it's still better than having porous welds in structurally important areas. Cheers!
You're doing a fantastic job but a little tip. when cutting into two panel like the back seat area you did, it's always best to remove layer by layer cutting the first layer bigger than the last layer. That way when you weld in the bottom layer you have space to grind down the weld so the top fits flat to the bottom. Also instead of running your welds try spot tacking stacking them 50% over each other and that way you will not blow through the thin sheet metal. When you run the welds you are creating more heat into the panel and it is easy to blow hole in the panel. Hope this helps. Another tip I forgot to mention is when grinding in corner or tight spaces, use a small cut off wheel on the die grinder and gently grind the welds off with the edge of the wheel.
23:00 I believe that with MIG welding you're supposed to "push" the torch rather than "pull" it?? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's how I was taught.
Pulling is right when you use low powered Short Arc Process as on thin plates like Cars . If you increase Power to Spray Arc (more than 26V) and you want to weld a fillet Weld for example then you need to Push slightly around 10 to 20 degrees to get a nice flat seam.
Well it is not really my place to advice as i a not welder but i would think asking someone who does welding for profession or is good at it to show how to get started would help you get a bit of confidence and right tecniques. Thx for the videos.
Ooo nice norway. I am from norway. And I am working in a industry mechanic. And do a lot of welding and like that. So if need some help so can I give you some advice.
You turn the temperature up, then find you blow through more... so you grind back, which thins the metal, and when you weld the holes you blow through even easier! It's frustrating but as you say, it's just down to practice. And everyone has to start somewhere 👍🏻 Keep it up! BTW finger sanders a great for carefully grinding back just the welds, not thinning the surrounding metal. Oh suggestions for the rear bench near the fuel filler pipe, getting started, maybe a cutting disc? Appreciated you may not have the room and angle there...
Hey CookRacing, thanks for the comment dude. I apprecaite the advice. I should have use the bloody air finger sander I have! I won't forget next time. Thanks man.
Don't turn the welder up hoping for flat welds, you are more likely to start blowing holes through the metal! Trying to do welding runs with sheet steel will make the metal warp and it will make a mess of a good repair. Just do spot welds and that should be better for you. The repair you have done to the top of the sill and the seat base are really good for someone who has just started welding. And one last comment. I wouldn't replace a full panel just for some small holes. I would use some of the panel to do the repair but not all of it. You are doing good work, keep it up.
Nice job. Thats how my welding looked too in the beginning. I needed to Grind them down to. I really recommend you to buy a small 9mm Belt sander like Makita 9032 or an air driven Alternative. The angle grinder is not precise enough so you grind down a Lot of Material of your healthy 0.8mm sheet metal so they it gets thin and hot. For getting rid of the undercoating i recommend using a fein Multimaster or comparable Tools. Using a wire brush on the angle grinder is a really dirty process, but it works too.
As someone once said. Grinder and paint makes me the welder i ain't. Your first patch panel welds look really cold. More heat needed. Your skills improved over the course of the video.
Not an expert, but seems that you're "sleeping" the welder tip, too much material is left on the cord. Maybe you should set less AMPS to have better control on it. BTW, great videos! a fan from Uruguay :)
So pleased to see someone fixing what they have and trying to improve themselves or a car they really like. So tired of all these people that think that if you don’t have the latest model of car well you’re not as good a person as I am. Good luck and keep up the good work. 👍🏼👍🏼👏🏻👏🏻
That is much better welding than last video! Keep it up!! You will be great at it in no time=) but maybe mor power and shorter "burst when you weld, on bigger patches, use a airgun to cool the metal down so it dosen`t warp. And i know this is not the right way, but welding thin sheet metal edge-to-edge is difficult, you can make patches theat overlap just a tiny bit, better to weld but not thje "correct" way.
Welding thin metal at weird angles is hard no matter your length of experience. I think your doing great. I stitch weld body panels to keep heat warpage down, stitching is just a series of tack welds that in the end look like a tig weld.
i love your channel and will never stop supporting it but to tell you the truth i like the old content better no talking no bull$&@t straight forward craftsmanship i think we’re misguided here the channel is becoming a little bit of everything which is overwhelming in a bad way .
Welding, seems so hard to get consistent results, unless you count bad welds as consistent! Nice work, I usually just keep throwing weld at my car till the holes mostly disappear then slap underseal over it with a trowel!
When welding cars I find it good to use small tacks next to each other, leave the weld burn into the metal as well hold lance there for a little bit longer. Keep up the good work tho we all start somewhere.
Dude u need to push the welder handle. Dont pull like u do. At elektrode welding u pull the elektrode there u need to push ist and u got to low Amps ure weld need to be more flat.
Great videos dude, I am watching the progress of this beamer since the 1st video. Why don't you try to use body filler to fix these welding mini holes, before applying the grey primer ?
Not a good idea to fill holes with body filler, it can become a place for moisture to work it’s way in from the back of panel and cause trouble in the future
For the welding you need to tack every 35mm ish then stack 5 tacks at a time not full welds it puts less heat in also have a wet cloth to hold on after tacks
Sorry if something is wrong, but the issues about welding and body repair are very monotonous and boring. I think that they would need to be combined into one or reduced at least three times each. We look forward to new videos, thanks my friend)
Sheet metal is a tricky thing to mig. Looks like you're coming along. Getting flatter welds sometimes isn't about upping the power. You might need a hair bit more wire speed or you might need to dwell on those spot welds a little longer to get the heat into them. Someone with a better ear for mig than me could tell you if your wire speed is right.
@@RestoreIt Yes i think you will see a better result by using uncoated just raw metal in the right thickness , the gas and welder is reacting to the galvanized coating.
Great job! I like your videos because they are more "real life" than the videos from other restoration channels I watch... Some of them make me think I could never be anywhere near their league, but when I watch your videos, I realize that anyone, with the proper tools and the will to do it, can really start restoring stuff and do a nice job!
Hi mate, another great stuff from you. I think you need to experiment with the voltage and wire feed speed. And also, pay your attention, if during welding metal is easily burned, then perhaps this is a signal that next to this place it has become thinner due to rust that you did not see. Weld small pieces with dots, rather than a solid seam, so you overheat the metal less. The fact that you switched to a mix for welding is the right choice. Don't hurry and stay cool, everything will be fine. Good luck man.
I'm no professional welder but I think you should try making more tacks and less beads, since you are putting much more heat in your panel and you could warp it, also, you won't get the annoying weld-through holes at the end of the bead. I also heard someone suggested tig welding, from what I heard it's not a very common welding process in body work, but there is someone on youtube called "Garage Time - Restomod" who managed to make it work on in porsche, and you won't be deceived by his OCD levels as well :)
I Think if you go for TIG welding you use half the Flapdiscs and save alot time grinding, the welds look better too. If done correctly also less heat in the material that may cause warping the metal. I use Mig also, but its not for restoring cars. Just make cars passsing MOT or weld an exhaust :P I did see alot improvement!
You should spray that zink spray between those overlap sheets, you cant paint them later. You should allso cut longer hole in those overlapjoints that are rusted, rust is hiding inside of the joint. Welding completely rusted e30 chassis call nerves, I know what im talkin cause i has been there done that 😅
Looking much-much better on the welds! Hope it felt better too with the right core and gas ;) One thing I found helpful since starting (motivated by watching your channel for one) is keeping the nozzle over the weld for another second or so, especially if you can keep the gas flowing independently. It usually should keep the gas on longer, but even if it doesn't the gas in the cable and nozzle will help the weld cool properly. Seems like you did find the good settings on the welder for the materials you are using =)
Thank you Honey! Amazing to hear I have motivated you :D My gas is not independently controlled. This is something I want to look into getting. Thanks for reminding me! And thanks for a lovely comment.
It’s too thin of a gauge of sheet metal to run a continuous weld bead. Also you are swinging the gun. That’s don in thicker material to put more heat and build up the weld. In those kind of thicknesses you want to run lots of tack welds. And keep the gaps as little as possible yet still some is needed. Oh and that garage did that weld on the sill that way so you can put filler on it. In your any high spots will need to be Hammered in.
Love your work as always mate! There's a definite improvement in your welding, it's 100% one of those things only practice solves - plus welding thin sheet metal edge to edge like this is a bit of a nightmare at the best of times! That's a big improvement in a short space of time, you'll be a pro in a few weeks at this rate
Please use other sheet metal, you can´t get zinc off properly. You can see it when you weld. The smoke and the white stuff that appears when you weld is from the zinc. That smoke is pretty unhealthy and the welds get bad also. You will se that when you use uncoated steel it´s much easyer to weld.
those tack welds looks very good tbf, some people do runs like you tried to do, i prefer to tack one by one all the way round the panel, tack in all corners to hold it then tack and tack and tack one right next to the other (best to try and overlap a tiny bit) also im glad to see you resting the gun on your hand or with your fingers against the panel, welding in mid air is very difficult and annoying, but i can definitely see your progress keep going!!
If you dont plan to do it for a living its better to get a cheap welder and plenty of electrodes and scrap metal (start with stick its cheap, if you learn this all other methods will be much easier)
as you have an airline and a 2 inch roll lock, you should get an angled die grinder. you can used 2 inch flap discs and sanding pads and will produce easier cleaning than your electric die grinder and wire wheels...
Hello, nice video You forgot to drill that little hole. Don't Weld a line, stitch one point after the other so it can cool down a little bit. Sorry for the English
Turn the welder up, do some practice tacks on some spare sheets butted against each other. You're not getting good penetration on the backside. Do one tack at a time, instead of a line. While welding, check if you patches stay flush with the original panel, adjust as necessary. What thickness of sheet metal are you using? Looks quite thick. Try some 0.8 or 1mm sheet instead like original for non structural stuff, 1.2-1.5mm for chassis rails. Use zinc primer between two panels when plug welding. If it welds not as good, just scrape the primer away in the hole. Again not getting the best of penetration on the plugwelds, turn your welder up a bit. Are you going to replace the whole wheel well? I would rather cut patches out of the new panel than replacing the old one completely.
Some people say turn it down some say turn it up. I will have to do some experiementing. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the wheel arch. I'll think about it when the panel arrives.
@@RestoreIt I find it's better to turn it up and do a short quick tack, than putting a long bead at a low setting. You'll also see that with a quick tack on a higher amperage will result in a lower weld. What wire thickness are you using? I would suggest practicing on some extra sheet metal than on your E30. Easier to trow out some "test metal" than having to cut it out of your car..
When the welds pile up and look tall afterwards, it usually means the feed speed on the wire is too high, so it's spitting out wire and melting it and piling up rather than laying flat - your heat looks good for having decent penetration, but thats just how sheet metal goes, you have to do smaller "Stitches" and move around or take breaks or you blow thru everywhere. Biggest problem is that awful metal you've bought for repairs - it's a bit thicker than the stock metal, which is fine and helps with the blow thrus, but NEVER NEVER buy galvanized metal - no mater How much you claim you "Cleaned it" it's clear you havent by all the smoke, and yellow/white residue left over when youre welding! Bin that crap and get some BARE STEEL. even recycled metal would be better (an old File cabinet, soup cans, etc LOL) theres no way to get better than just digging in and doing it, youre doing well with using REAL MiG with gas instead of that flux core garbage - so half the battle is done, also, go get a second small grinder, keep the flapper wheel in one, and a thin "Whiz-Wheel" cut off disk in the other - will help a lot- your body hammer is decent, maybe get some dollies for backing up when youre hitting flat flanges and seams.
You should tack weld . Put some tack , wait for about 1 sec , for heat to go into metal , and cool weld , then put wire on end of previous tack , and repeat process . Do this 4-5 times and move to next spot . Do not try to continuously weld tin sheet metal. Another thing , first make patch , use grinder for cutting ( strait cuts ) , then put path over hole , and use it as template for cutting . Go for strait lines , cos its much easier to cut with grinder . Gap shouldnt exceed thickness of wire . If you have holes to fill , use some heavy piece of metal , like old hammer ,to make bottom of hole. Wire wont stick to heavy piece , if you do short weld . Good luck
Man, everybody was there. I was there. Welding is the most simple, yet most delicate craft one can only learn. If you obtain skills necessary to do it properly, it will be nothing but fun. 😁💪🏻
Where you can, for instance the door sill edge, use mole grips to clamp the piece down, you'll get flusher bits welded in nicely. For a beginner in welding I think you're doing great. We all make mistakes but that's the beauty in doing so, you learn from past mistakes. I appreciate the effort that goes into your videos. Keep up the good work! Edit: Also perhaps consider using a die grinder to clean your welds rather than the bulky but trusty grinder.
I think you should be more confident in yourselfe! This looks pretty good what you are doing! Giving me motivation to start a project like this soon! Cheers from Austria
Cheers Austria! I'm walking a fine line showing myself learning to weld. I don't want to sound at all confident in myself when the welds look like this. I've seen some amazing welding I one day hope to replicate :)
Why don't yo get some old scrap metal (car panels) and set yourself up on the bench and practice welding.........after an afternoon of welding you should be good
@@RestoreIt tig welding is way more complicated than mig. On TIG there are so many little details in the process that can mess up your weld and as a beginner you can't tell what's the Problem. TIG also is much slower than MIG which can generate more heat into your Panel. On those thin stuff you want to get your heat in and out as quick as you can to minimize distortion :)
Sub, bell, now i just have to patiently wait for each upload. Quick remark on the weld after lunch, almost 90 percent of your welding is brain power (you are thinking about each spot and pass, so your brain have alot to think about, once the normal stuff transfers to the muscle memory and the brain frees up thought for more important stuff, you'll get better. Like the first time driving a manual, gear clutch brake steering,, its over whelming.
Hey! Much improved! Great you could go to mig. But for thin metal try several spot welds, one overlapping the next, instead of longer beads. This allows heat to dissipate and avoids blowouts. Try reducing wire speed slightly so welds dont crown so much, and so you dont have to cut wire stickout every time. You have to make many slight adjustments until the machine is dialed in, but its worth it. In fact how it sounds while you welds tells you a lot (try Jody at weldingtipsandtricks.com). Finally, if youre going to lay down a bead, push or go forward with mig, so the gas always covers the weld. Then practice, practice, practice.
For grinding I recommend a pneumatic 90° die grinder with the grinding disk attachment. Works a lot better to get into tight areas for grinding down welds. Also the white residue you see next to the welds is the galvanizing burning. It can make you very sick so just make sure you get all of the galvanizing off, or even better buy the right metal for future patches. Your welds are improving, and that's the thing about welding... Years from now you look back at your original welds you'll be embarrassed. But take each improvement as a step in the right direction. We all started somewhere. Good job waiting for cooling between welds and doing small spots then move to a different area. Too much heat in an area will just cause burn back at the edges of the panels that you then have to fill. Also I might recommend using a hand file to get nice straight edges in the cutouts making it easier to make filler panels. Making odd-shaped panels for odd-shaped holes is always more difficult than squaring it off from the start. Keep up the good work. Love the videos and watching you learn new skills. It takes me back to my youth :)
I brought a welder at the weekend as it was roughly the same price as buying a whole new exhaust as every section needed touching up, Watching your previous videos gave me the inspiration to 'bodge not buy'. I'm currently practising on a section of new pipe by cutting off a piece and welding it back into place, I'm really pleased with the steady improvement each time i practice this, My plan is to start on the exhaust tomorrow.
welding is an art form that takes time to learn, I can remember the first time I tried to weld it looked a lot worse than your welds! keep practising and keep up the good work
I dunno if you have the space, but an oxy acetylene setup could handle cutting, some welding, brazing, tons of useful stuff. Pretty cheap too. Biggest cost is the initial purchase of the gas bottles.
Nice work I just advice I personally weld tack by tack close as I can it's less heat transfer to metal less burn out on metal good to left a gap between original panel and patch about 1 mm per side it's better weld penetrations easy to grind flush the weld, I never make sharp corners just left some radius on patch and panel too thin metal easy to burn away. Just try these out on some scrap sheet metal and let me now if it's better peace
looks to me like you have the welder set wrong. wire speed is too fast and power too high and when you weld draw CCCCCCCCCCCCCC with the wire, like building a little C bridge across the gap then the next C builds onto the last C. slower wire speed means you can draw a really neat weld and control its height and lower power means you wont burn through. i recommend to stop welding on the car and use practice pieces on the bench until you get the hang of it.
Your videos are so incredible because you are a soon to be professional. With every passing video, we (and hopefully you!) can see the progress! A few episodes ago, you were doing "single point welds", now you are doing those traditional "line" welds (I have no idea how to call them). You are incredibly motivating to watch! Gives me hope that one day Ill also manage to try ot new things! Keep up the very hard and good work.
You are doing very well for a newbie. As for setup, get a smaller dia. Mig (GMAW) wire (.023 inch - .025 inch - basically the smallest wire you can find). On thin gauge material like these panels it works much better. This will also allow you to lower your voltage (no more holes) and wire speed, resulting in less material (weld) build up. But it will provide the proper penetration for this application. However, on structural components 1/8" (3mm) and above you need to use a larger dia. wire (.030" or even .035").
Believe it or not, that WASN'T the worst welding I've ever seen. You at least seemed like you had a plan, and you weren't just slathering weld on hoping it would somehow fix things. I mean yeah, I can tell you're still learning, but so what? You're trying to improve. There's a lot of people that get a welder, learn just enough to fix some minor problems, and never get any better. Nice job! Also plasma cutters are an interesting beast. They are complex to get running the first couple times, but when you get it, it quickly becomes old hat. Usually the corner hole drilling approach works for saw blades like that. Sometimes if it's a really tight fit, I use a hole saw on a drill right in the middle of the affected area then just spread out from it. Depends on the angles.
Hi, first off I believe that even though you can always improve your work is very thorough and good. 1. In terms of leaving the sill piece low - yes, lazy people do that to avoid having to level it, then they fill it with body filler. 2. In terms of making holes for a reciprocating saw when cutting - I tend to use a larger drill bit after a pilot hole (which is slightly inboard of the edge)- does the job for me. 3. Have you thought about chassis reinforcement? I recently purchased a kit for that. It should come in tomorrow and I can take the measurements and send them to you. They are quite pricey but give the age of the cars I see them as a "must". 4. To build on point 3 - since you are taking all that time to have a stripped car to the bare metal and build it back up how about "seam welding" it - once again, to improve structural rigidity? The bodies of 40 YO cars are tired and this will improve the feeling in my mind, at least I would at this level of restoration. 5. I have seen many strut braces - front and rear, have you though of installing such? What do you think about them? I guess the comment ended up longer than expected. I hope it helps and keep up the excellent work!
Nice! Getting much better. Practice makes perfect. What is the metal thickness for your patches? Probably you've said it 999999 times but I can't recall now. And why do you prefer metal scissors for patch cutting rather than angle grinder? 🙂
LITERALLY Rebuilding A Rusty BMW E30 325i Sport | Part 2 - Learning to Weld A Car I have watched part 1and 2 but I can't find 3 or 4 just when it getting interesting
You sure are getting better and better! Congrats! I have some unsolicited advice: the top of the sill is a flat pannel with a 90° bend; you had 3 rust holes lined up, it would have been better to make only one patch pannel, less welding, les pannel weakening. Also, I would recommend getting a spot weld drill bit, will make your life easier and you won't have to dill through both pannels. Finally, for a perfect finnish and minimum use of filler, I would advice you to use tin to fill the welds on your patches. Hope this helps! You are doing awesome.
It`s getting better, really! Skip that wax based undercoat for bar&chain oil, check out mustie1, he uses it all the time for spraying the bottom, after a drive over dusty roads, it builds a nice protective barrier. Wax based coating stays fine until one little chip comes off, water can creep behind it and do really bad... Great work so far, keep the patience! :-D
Keep up the great work dude! If can give my opinion, You’re welds are sitting on top of the metal and not getting good penetration. Trying messing around with you’re settings I’d start by raising the amps and lowering the wire speed. Also, you’ll be much happier if you just “spot weld” the patches in, running beads on thin metal can be very frustrating with blow outs and splatter causing dirty metal. Oh and last thing, snow you’re hand movements down. 👊🏼
The step-down in the previous patch allows for a quick'n dirty bondo-egalization. Where I learnt puttin' lipstick on pigs, they didn't even cut away most of the rustouts but hammered those in a bit and put new parts just over the old ones. Puff pastry from tin and iron-oxide 😂
![1986 BMW E30 Pedal Box - [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BuAoHqOeouk/mqdefault.jpg)
as a wise man named Uncle Bumblef***k said
"Grinders and paint makes me the welder I ain't"
Haha too true Fila!
He also said "I'm not a good welder, but a hell of a grinder"
That man loves his magic pixies.
Preaching AvE's gospel, I see...
@@exec4ever the sacred texts!
We never stop learning, keep at it buddy
Too true, thanks man.
Hey dude, try running a bit longer welds.
I know when i was first welding my e36 that i was scared that i'll burn through the panel and i didn't see shit through the mask so i made the same mistake as you did.
Then i took 2 pieces of scrap sheet metal and practiced, attempted to burn through on purpose, etc.. and that let me get a feel for it and not be as nervous when i'm working blind.
Also that e36 was hella rusty and i didn't have money for replacement panels so i made a lot of welds, i even chopped off rear shock mount and put in another one from a wrecked car lol.
Thanks CME! Damn you've been through it! Thanks for the advice man!
Problem is that you warp your panels the more heat you put into them, thats why you mostly just spotweld. He also should try lowering the wire speed instead of turning up the power, as he is already burning through the metal.
I must disagree, with longer beads you introduce much mote heat and then you have to deal with warping, letting the heat spread to a part with short tacks is much better imo
@@oxygenium92 It depends to be honest, you are introducing a same amount of heat in both cases, it is just the amount of time you introduce it in.
A small weld like this on a well heatsinked surface would have 0 problems from warping, i guarantee you that, especially since these e30's were built like tanks compared to today's cars.
The problem with a lot of spot welds is that you much more run the risk of structurally weak welds, and god forbid he crashes this e30 this weld point is a very nice weak point. How weak you want to make it depends on integrity of your welds and your filler material, the sheet metal in this case.
Also, tack welding like that all around makes the weld a lot harder to clean up and often leaves a lot of tiny holes which are dream come true for rust.
Everything has it's own limits tho, so don't go out and run 20cm beads just because i told you to, i suggest you experiment on your own a bit and also look at some professional bodywork repair videos, you will see how they do it.
Cheers!
@@FetteMacke Both are true, if you look at professional bodywork videos, you'll see them section the weld into smaller chunks, about 5-8cm in lenght, which they weld in one go and then swap to doing another spot to let this one cool down a bit.
Plus, you are not welding paper man, it does not warp that easily, and if it does warp, it's still better than having porous welds in structurally important areas.
Cheers!
Glad to hear you’ve found a supplier for the panels. Cheers!
Cheers Alan!
Learning to mig weld is easy, leading to weld well takes time and experience, it'll come
Keep up the good work lad restoration is like everything else in life it takes time and practice to get right. Don't let the naysayers get you down
Thank you Richard! Much appreciated
so relaxing to watch this before going to sleep
Glad to hear it Juck :)
Same here..love it
Stop making those circles and other patterns and just go straight. Your not welding a nuclear sub here.
I have learnt this now :D
You're doing a fantastic job but a little tip. when cutting into two panel like the back seat area you did, it's always best to remove layer by layer cutting the first layer bigger than the last layer. That way when you weld in the bottom layer you have space to grind down the weld so the top fits flat to the bottom. Also instead of running your welds try spot tacking stacking them 50% over each other and that way you will not blow through the thin sheet metal. When you run the welds you are creating more heat into the panel and it is easy to blow hole in the panel. Hope this helps. Another tip I forgot to mention is when grinding in corner or tight spaces, use a small cut off wheel on the die grinder and gently grind the welds off with the edge of the wheel.
Thank you AS28g! Great adivce. I will keep this comment somewhere for help!
23:00 I believe that with MIG welding you're supposed to "push" the torch rather than "pull" it?? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's how I was taught.
Someone else has said this so think you're right SlapHappy :) I will push it from now on.
Pulling is right when you use low powered Short Arc Process as on thin plates like Cars . If you increase Power to Spray Arc (more than 26V) and you want to weld a fillet Weld for example then you need to Push slightly around 10 to 20 degrees to get a nice flat seam.
You should also do what they call stitch welding which is a series of tack welds around and around and around so you don’t overheat and warp the panel
Well it is not really my place to advice as i a not welder but i would think asking someone who does welding for profession or is good at it to show how to get started would help you get a bit of confidence and right tecniques. Thx for the videos.
Because of the shield gas, pulling it makes it escape. Pushing it protects it.
Ooo nice norway. I am from norway. And I am working in a industry mechanic. And do a lot of welding and like that. So if need some help so can I give you some advice.
Thanks man I'll keep it i mind.
Oh god, 26 minutes and 43 seconds im taking poop in toilet right now.
Excellent to hear this Migal.
x'D
Love your car love the way you edit videos can't wait to see the next one
Thank you dude. I'm going to being picking up the pace don't worry!
You turn the temperature up, then find you blow through more... so you grind back, which thins the metal, and when you weld the holes you blow through even easier! It's frustrating but as you say, it's just down to practice. And everyone has to start somewhere 👍🏻 Keep it up!
BTW finger sanders a great for carefully grinding back just the welds, not thinning the surrounding metal.
Oh suggestions for the rear bench near the fuel filler pipe, getting started, maybe a cutting disc? Appreciated you may not have the room and angle there...
Hey CookRacing, thanks for the comment dude. I apprecaite the advice. I should have use the bloody air finger sander I have! I won't forget next time. Thanks man.
@@RestoreIt I know how it is - you get to a point where you have such a big range of tools and forget you have something more suitable for the job :D
That's a sweet comment ! constructive, delicate, and helpful. cheers
good work man i really do see a lot of improvement in your welding in this video. keep practicing man u did some good work here
Thank you CJ appreciate it.
Don't turn the welder up hoping for flat welds, you are more likely to start blowing holes through the metal! Trying to do welding runs with sheet steel will make the metal warp and it will make a mess of a good repair. Just do spot welds and that should be better for you. The repair you have done to the top of the sill and the seat base are really good for someone who has just started welding. And one last comment. I wouldn't replace a full panel just for some small holes. I would use some of the panel to do the repair but not all of it. You are doing good work, keep it up.
Thank you Ian. Solid advice. I really appreciate it and will keep it in mind.
Nice job. Thats how my welding looked too in the beginning.
I needed to Grind them down to. I really recommend you to buy a small 9mm Belt sander like Makita 9032 or an air driven Alternative. The angle grinder is not precise enough so you grind down a Lot of Material of your healthy 0.8mm sheet metal so they it gets thin and hot.
For getting rid of the undercoating i recommend using a fein Multimaster or comparable Tools. Using a wire brush on the angle grinder is a really dirty process, but it works too.
Thanks Joe! Great advice. I'll try the belt sander and get the fein multimaster out for the undercoating.
As someone once said. Grinder and paint makes me the welder i ain't.
Your first patch panel welds look really cold. More heat needed. Your skills improved over the course of the video.
Too true Zoidverg!
Not an expert, but seems that you're "sleeping" the welder tip, too much material is left on the cord. Maybe you should set less AMPS to have better control on it. BTW, great videos! a fan from Uruguay :)
Okay thanks Mauricio! I'll try a lower setting.
Hi nice video new sub this guy is a expert in the making practice makes perfect till next time
As the saying goes, 'Grinders and paint make me the welder I ain't'
Too true!
So pleased to see someone fixing what they have and trying to improve themselves or a car they really like. So tired of all these people that think that if you don’t have the latest model of car well you’re not as good a person as I am. Good luck and keep up the good work. 👍🏼👍🏼👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you Dan! Lovely comment.
Love your videos
Thank you EJK!
IamEJK me too man
+1 :D
That is much better welding than last video! Keep it up!! You will be great at it in no time=) but maybe mor power and shorter "burst when you weld, on bigger patches, use a airgun to cool the metal down so it dosen`t warp. And i know this is not the right way, but welding thin sheet metal edge-to-edge is difficult, you can make patches theat overlap just a tiny bit, better to weld but not thje "correct" way.
Thanks man!
Welding thin metal at weird angles is hard no matter your length of experience. I think your doing great. I stitch weld body panels to keep heat warpage down, stitching is just a series of tack welds that in the end look like a tig weld.
Thanks Sunny! I will try some stitch welding next epsiode for sure!
Very good 👍
Thanks dude, good to see you.
You're welded is giting bitter than of the bigining
Thanks Rago!
i love your channel and will never stop supporting it but to tell you the truth i like the old content better no talking no bull$&@t straight forward craftsmanship i think we’re misguided here the channel is becoming a little bit of everything which is overwhelming in a bad way .
Welding, seems so hard to get consistent results, unless you count bad welds as consistent!
Nice work, I usually just keep throwing weld at my car till the holes mostly disappear then slap underseal over it with a trowel!
Haha thanks Leigh!
When welding cars I find it good to use small tacks next to each other, leave the weld burn into the metal as well hold lance there for a little bit longer. Keep up the good work tho we all start somewhere.
Thanks Josh, great adivce!
Dude u need to push the welder handle. Dont pull like u do. At elektrode welding u pull the elektrode there u need to push ist and u got to low Amps ure weld need to be more flat.
Okay thanks for the adivce Lukas!
Your Videos are amazing!
I am restoring a BMW E31 850I from 1990 with my uncle. :)
Thank you Sid! Good luck with your resto :D
@@RestoreIt Thanks,same to you. :D
You should also do what they call stitch welding which is a series of tack welds around and around and around so you don’t overheat and warp the panel
Thank you ben I will try this next episode.
Great videos dude, I am watching the progress of this beamer since the 1st video. Why don't you try to use body filler to fix these welding mini holes, before applying the grey primer ?
Thanks Ivaylo! I won't be leaving those small hole there don't worry. I'll go back and do any welds that aren't good enough until they are.
the less filler you use the better
Not a good idea to fill holes with body filler, it can become a place for moisture to work it’s way in from the back of panel and cause trouble in the future
For the welding you need to tack every 35mm ish then stack 5 tacks at a time not full welds it puts less heat in also have a wet cloth to hold on after tacks
I will try this next time thanks Nicholas!
Sorry if something is wrong, but the issues about welding and body repair are very monotonous and boring. I think that they would need to be combined into one or reduced at least three times each. We look forward to new videos, thanks my friend)
Thanks for the advice. I will get through the chassis as fast as I can.
Sheet metal is a tricky thing to mig. Looks like you're coming along.
Getting flatter welds sometimes isn't about upping the power. You might need a hair bit more wire speed or you might need to dwell on those spot welds a little longer to get the heat into them.
Someone with a better ear for mig than me could tell you if your wire speed is right.
Thanks dude, I'll keep this in mind.
ANTALYA'dan selamlar
Thanks :D
I'm pretty sure the kind of galvanized metal you are using is most of your problem
I'll have this replaced with uncoated metal by next episode thanks man
@@RestoreIt Yes i think you will see a better result by using uncoated just raw metal in the right thickness , the gas and welder is reacting to the galvanized coating.
Great job! I like your videos because they are more "real life" than the videos from other restoration channels I watch... Some of them make me think I could never be anywhere near their league, but when I watch your videos, I realize that anyone, with the proper tools and the will to do it, can really start restoring stuff and do a nice job!
Thanks Fernando! This is exacltly what I wanted to achieve :)
Hi mate, another great stuff from you. I think you need to experiment with the voltage and wire feed speed.
And also, pay your attention, if during welding metal is easily burned, then perhaps this is a signal that next to this place it has become thinner due to rust that you did not see.
Weld small pieces with dots, rather than a solid seam, so you overheat the metal less. The fact that you switched to a mix for welding is the right choice. Don't hurry and stay cool, everything will be fine. Good luck man.
Thank you Ozzy! Great advice.
Good
Thank ya
I'm no professional welder but I think you should try making more tacks and less beads, since you are putting much more heat in your panel and you could warp it, also, you won't get the annoying weld-through holes at the end of the bead. I also heard someone suggested tig welding, from what I heard it's not a very common welding process in body work, but there is someone on youtube called "Garage Time - Restomod" who managed to make it work on in porsche, and you won't be deceived by his OCD levels as well :)
Thanks Eliaz! And thanks for the suggestion I'll check him out :)
I Think if you go for TIG welding you use half the Flapdiscs and save alot time grinding, the welds look better too. If done correctly also less heat in the material that may cause warping the metal. I use Mig also, but its not for restoring cars. Just make cars passsing MOT or weld an exhaust :P I did see alot improvement!
Thanks William! I really want a TIG. I'm going to get one!
You should spray that zink spray between those overlap sheets, you cant paint them later. You should allso cut longer hole in those overlapjoints that are rusted, rust is hiding inside of the joint. Welding completely rusted e30 chassis call nerves, I know what im talkin cause i has been there done that 😅
Thanks dude!
you want your welding to sound like frying bacon, then you know your hot enough.
I'll keep it in mind! Thanks.
That’s the way I was taught too.... mmmmmm bacon 🥓 😋
Looking much-much better on the welds! Hope it felt better too with the right core and gas ;)
One thing I found helpful since starting (motivated by watching your channel for one) is keeping the nozzle over the weld for another second or so, especially if you can keep the gas flowing independently. It usually should keep the gas on longer, but even if it doesn't the gas in the cable and nozzle will help the weld cool properly.
Seems like you did find the good settings on the welder for the materials you are using =)
Thank you Honey! Amazing to hear I have motivated you :D My gas is not independently controlled. This is something I want to look into getting. Thanks for reminding me! And thanks for a lovely comment.
It’s too thin of a gauge of sheet metal to run a continuous weld bead. Also you are swinging the gun. That’s don in thicker material to put more heat and build up the weld. In those kind of thicknesses you want to run lots of tack welds. And keep the gaps as little as possible yet still some is needed. Oh and that garage did that weld on the sill that way so you can put filler on it. In your any high spots will need to be Hammered in.
Thanks for the advice Ferdiyurdakul! I will bear this in mind.
Love your work as always mate! There's a definite improvement in your welding, it's 100% one of those things only practice solves - plus welding thin sheet metal edge to edge like this is a bit of a nightmare at the best of times!
That's a big improvement in a short space of time, you'll be a pro in a few weeks at this rate
Thank you as always Lucas! I think you're spot on about the practice. Haha I hope that to be the case but we'll see. Big thanks dude.
Dawno tak gównianego kiczowatego remontu.... ciężko to w ogóle remontem nazwac
The reason these are so good is you keep all the mistakes in. Great content keep it up!
Please use other sheet metal, you can´t get zinc off properly. You can see it when you weld. The smoke and the white stuff that appears when you weld is from the zinc. That smoke is pretty unhealthy and the welds get bad also. You will se that when you use uncoated steel it´s much easyer to weld.
Thanks dude. I will make sure I have some uncoated steel for next episode.
those tack welds looks very good tbf, some people do runs like you tried to do, i prefer to tack one by one all the way round the panel, tack in all corners to hold it then tack and tack and tack one right next to the other (best to try and overlap a tiny bit) also im glad to see you resting the gun on your hand or with your fingers against the panel, welding in mid air is very difficult and annoying, but i can definitely see your progress keep going!!
Thank you Kezza! I'll try it next episode :D
If I had the time I love to go on a welding course.
I probably sould aye :D
If you dont plan to do it for a living its better to get a cheap welder and plenty of electrodes and scrap metal (start with stick its cheap, if you learn this all other methods will be much easier)
All a learning curve mate, new panels will save so much time though 😃
Thanks Rob! You're not wrong. I was unaware such company existed. Bloody amazing stuff.
I was half expecting for you to get the funk out!
as you have an airline and a 2 inch roll lock, you should get an angled die grinder. you can used 2 inch flap discs and sanding pads and will produce easier cleaning than your electric die grinder and wire wheels...
Thanks Antony I will look into this.
Hello, nice video
You forgot to drill that little hole. Don't Weld a line, stitch one point after the other so it can cool down a little bit. Sorry for the English
Thanks Hubert. I did indeed. I will get this done next episode.
some good progress with the welding.
but put some copper behind the gap that your welding it makes it more easy to fill the gap.
Thanks man. I keep forgetting to do this!
Hi mate can u help me with the height of the car support where the car rotate
Turn the welder up, do some practice tacks on some spare sheets butted against each other. You're not getting good penetration on the backside. Do one tack at a time, instead of a line.
While welding, check if you patches stay flush with the original panel, adjust as necessary.
What thickness of sheet metal are you using? Looks quite thick. Try some 0.8 or 1mm sheet instead like original for non structural stuff, 1.2-1.5mm for chassis rails.
Use zinc primer between two panels when plug welding. If it welds not as good, just scrape the primer away in the hole. Again not getting the best of penetration on the plugwelds, turn your welder up a bit.
Are you going to replace the whole wheel well? I would rather cut patches out of the new panel than replacing the old one completely.
Some people say turn it down some say turn it up. I will have to do some experiementing.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the wheel arch. I'll think about it when the panel arrives.
@@RestoreIt I find it's better to turn it up and do a short quick tack, than putting a long bead at a low setting. You'll also see that with a quick tack on a higher amperage will result in a lower weld.
What wire thickness are you using?
I would suggest practicing on some extra sheet metal than on your E30. Easier to trow out some "test metal" than having to cut it out of your car..
very good work
Thank you Ulmanito!
When the welds pile up and look tall afterwards, it usually means the feed speed on the wire is too high, so it's spitting out wire and melting it and piling up rather than laying flat - your heat looks good for having decent penetration, but thats just how sheet metal goes, you have to do smaller "Stitches" and move around or take breaks or you blow thru everywhere.
Biggest problem is that awful metal you've bought for repairs - it's a bit thicker than the stock metal, which is fine and helps with the blow thrus, but NEVER NEVER buy galvanized metal - no mater How much you claim you "Cleaned it" it's clear you havent by all the smoke, and yellow/white residue left over when youre welding! Bin that crap and get some BARE STEEL. even recycled metal would be better (an old File cabinet, soup cans, etc LOL) theres no way to get better than just digging in and doing it, youre doing well with using REAL MiG with gas instead of that flux core garbage - so half the battle is done, also, go get a second small grinder, keep the flapper wheel in one, and a thin "Whiz-Wheel" cut off disk in the other - will help a lot- your body hammer is decent, maybe get some dollies for backing up when youre hitting flat flanges and seams.
You should tack weld . Put some tack , wait for about 1 sec , for heat to go into metal , and cool weld , then put wire on end of previous tack , and repeat process . Do this 4-5 times and move to next spot . Do not try to continuously weld tin sheet metal. Another thing , first make patch , use grinder for cutting ( strait cuts ) , then put path over hole , and use it as template for cutting . Go for strait lines , cos its much easier to cut with grinder . Gap shouldnt exceed thickness of wire . If you have holes to fill , use some heavy piece of metal , like old hammer ,to make bottom of hole. Wire wont stick to heavy piece , if you do short weld . Good luck
Thank you Stevan! Great advice.
Your welds should look like CCCCCC
Man, everybody was there. I was there. Welding is the most simple, yet most delicate craft one can only learn. If you obtain skills necessary to do it properly, it will be nothing but fun. 😁💪🏻
Thanks Konrad! I can't wait to imporve more and enjoy it more :D
Where you can, for instance the door sill edge, use mole grips to clamp the piece down, you'll get flusher bits welded in nicely.
For a beginner in welding I think you're doing great. We all make mistakes but that's the beauty in doing so, you learn from past mistakes.
I appreciate the effort that goes into your videos. Keep up the good work!
Edit: Also perhaps consider using a die grinder to clean your welds rather than the bulky but trusty grinder.
I think you should be more confident in yourselfe! This looks pretty good what you are doing! Giving me motivation to start a project like this soon!
Cheers from Austria
Cheers Austria! I'm walking a fine line showing myself learning to weld. I don't want to sound at all confident in myself when the welds look like this. I've seen some amazing welding I one day hope to replicate :)
one tip. dont do to fast, cole it down after each one , use Air coprossor on it. if you go to fast the metal gonna be like crap
Okay thanks Andreas :)
Why don't yo get some old scrap metal (car panels) and set yourself up on the bench and practice welding.........after an afternoon of welding you should be good
I will get some sheet and practice on that :)
Good lad
Hey, you shouldn't to try do long beads you will heat metal too much and easily burn thought. just a tip
Thanks JRT. I'm experimenting at the moment :)
👍👍👍👍😎👍☝👍👍
You Are The Best ..... 💪
My e30 has a lot of rust, but not in places like yours, my rust is on more accessible places
Great work, keep it up
Thanks you dude!
Why do you stop and wait for the weld to cooldown? is it so the metal doesnt warp?
Yes exactly that.
I find it odd that people that post videos to UA-cam don't watch other peoples videos of how to do the very thing they are trying to do...
Looks ok to me well done ull take more pride in it now that you fabricated it yourself
Thanks dude, you're not wrong. I was happy with it.
I use grinder discs for the welds with great results but it needs a steady hand
Thanks dude, I did start with those but a lot of people said I should use flap discs. I'll go back to them if I need a fine grind I think.
TIG would be maybe better ... but idk ... anyway good work :)
I think this also. I'm on the hunt for one. They are just pricey.
@@RestoreIt tig welding is way more complicated than mig. On TIG there are so many little details in the process that can mess up your weld and as a beginner you can't tell what's the Problem. TIG also is much slower than MIG which can generate more heat into your Panel. On those thin stuff you want to get your heat in and out as quick as you can to minimize distortion :)
Wonderful to see. If you can do it, so can I!
Thanks Christian! That is too true!
Sub, bell, now i just have to patiently wait for each upload.
Quick remark on the weld after lunch, almost 90 percent of your welding is brain power (you are thinking about each spot and pass, so your brain have alot to think about, once the normal stuff transfers to the muscle memory and the brain frees up thought for more important stuff, you'll get better.
Like the first time driving a manual, gear clutch brake steering,, its over whelming.
Yes lad. Going as fast as I can. I'm aiming for every 3 or 4 days very soon I promise :D
Hey! Much improved! Great you could go to mig. But for thin metal try several spot welds, one overlapping the next, instead of longer beads. This allows heat to dissipate and avoids blowouts. Try reducing wire speed slightly so welds dont crown so much, and so you dont have to cut wire stickout every time. You have to make many slight adjustments until the machine is dialed in, but its worth it. In fact how it sounds while you welds tells you a lot (try Jody at weldingtipsandtricks.com). Finally, if youre going to lay down a bead, push or go forward with mig, so the gas always covers the weld. Then practice, practice, practice.
For grinding I recommend a pneumatic 90° die grinder with the grinding disk attachment. Works a lot better to get into tight areas for grinding down welds. Also the white residue you see next to the welds is the galvanizing burning. It can make you very sick so just make sure you get all of the galvanizing off, or even better buy the right metal for future patches.
Your welds are improving, and that's the thing about welding... Years from now you look back at your original welds you'll be embarrassed. But take each improvement as a step in the right direction. We all started somewhere. Good job waiting for cooling between welds and doing small spots then move to a different area. Too much heat in an area will just cause burn back at the edges of the panels that you then have to fill. Also I might recommend using a hand file to get nice straight edges in the cutouts making it easier to make filler panels. Making odd-shaped panels for odd-shaped holes is always more difficult than squaring it off from the start.
Keep up the good work. Love the videos and watching you learn new skills. It takes me back to my youth :)
I brought a welder at the weekend as it was roughly the same price as buying a whole new exhaust as every section needed touching up, Watching your previous videos gave me the inspiration to 'bodge not buy'.
I'm currently practising on a section of new pipe by cutting off a piece and welding it back into place, I'm really pleased with the steady improvement each time i practice this, My plan is to start on the exhaust tomorrow.
welding is an art form that takes time to learn, I can remember the first time I tried to weld it looked a lot worse than your welds! keep practising and keep up the good work
you did a great job dude, nothing to worry about
Thanks dude!
I dunno if you have the space, but an oxy acetylene setup could handle cutting, some welding, brazing, tons of useful stuff. Pretty cheap too. Biggest cost is the initial purchase of the gas bottles.
Nice work I just advice I personally weld tack by tack close as I can it's less heat transfer to metal less burn out on metal good to left a gap between original panel and patch about 1 mm per side it's better weld penetrations easy to grind flush the weld, I never make sharp corners just left some radius on patch and panel too thin metal easy to burn away. Just try these out on some scrap sheet metal and let me now if it's better peace
Thanks for the advice Tivah!
looks to me like you have the welder set wrong. wire speed is too fast and power too high and when you weld draw CCCCCCCCCCCCCC with the wire, like building a little C bridge across the gap then the next C builds onto the last C. slower wire speed means you can draw a really neat weld and control its height and lower power means you wont burn through. i recommend to stop welding on the car and use practice pieces on the bench until you get the hang of it.
Your videos are so incredible because you are a soon to be professional. With every passing video, we (and hopefully you!) can see the progress! A few episodes ago, you were doing "single point welds", now you are doing those traditional "line" welds (I have no idea how to call them). You are incredibly motivating to watch! Gives me hope that one day Ill also manage to try ot new things! Keep up the very hard and good work.
Thank you so much Farseer! Lovely comment. It's comments like this that keep me motivated. I really appreciate it.
Doing a great job. Will you have to work on any of the weatherstripping channel?
Thanks and I'm not sure, I don't think so.
Restore It only reason I ask is I have rotted weather stripping channel on my Torino, so it’s interesting to see how others fix their stuff.
You are doing very well for a newbie.
As for setup, get a smaller dia. Mig (GMAW) wire (.023 inch - .025 inch - basically the smallest wire you can find). On thin gauge material like these panels it works much better. This will also allow you to lower your voltage (no more holes) and wire speed, resulting in less material (weld) build up. But it will provide the proper penetration for this application.
However, on structural components 1/8" (3mm) and above you need to use a larger dia. wire (.030" or even .035").
The speed up footage of that saw sounds like Fran Drescher laughing.
Вот теперь сварка very well! 👍
Thanks!
How heavy is this bare shell? Could you possibli lift it with 2 people?
I'm not sure. Four I think defo doable.
@@RestoreIt imagine 4 dudes runing down the street with striped e30 to a paint shop squad goals haha
Believe it or not, that WASN'T the worst welding I've ever seen. You at least seemed like you had a plan, and you weren't just slathering weld on hoping it would somehow fix things. I mean yeah, I can tell you're still learning, but so what? You're trying to improve. There's a lot of people that get a welder, learn just enough to fix some minor problems, and never get any better. Nice job!
Also plasma cutters are an interesting beast. They are complex to get running the first couple times, but when you get it, it quickly becomes old hat.
Usually the corner hole drilling approach works for saw blades like that. Sometimes if it's a really tight fit, I use a hole saw on a drill right in the middle of the affected area then just spread out from it. Depends on the angles.
Hi, first off I believe that even though you can always improve your work is very thorough and good.
1. In terms of leaving the sill piece low - yes, lazy people do that to avoid having to level it, then they fill it with body filler.
2. In terms of making holes for a reciprocating saw when cutting - I tend to use a larger drill bit after a pilot hole (which is slightly inboard of the edge)- does the job for me.
3. Have you thought about chassis reinforcement? I recently purchased a kit for that. It should come in tomorrow and I can take the measurements and send them to you. They are quite pricey but give the age of the cars I see them as a "must".
4. To build on point 3 - since you are taking all that time to have a stripped car to the bare metal and build it back up how about "seam welding" it - once again, to improve structural rigidity? The bodies of 40 YO cars are tired and this will improve the feeling in my mind, at least I would at this level of restoration.
5. I have seen many strut braces - front and rear, have you though of installing such? What do you think about them?
I guess the comment ended up longer than expected. I hope it helps and keep up the excellent work!
Nice! Getting much better. Practice makes perfect.
What is the metal thickness for your patches? Probably you've said it 999999 times but I can't recall now. And why do you prefer metal scissors for patch cutting rather than angle grinder? 🙂
LITERALLY Rebuilding A Rusty BMW E30 325i Sport | Part 2 - Learning to Weld A Car I have watched part 1and 2 but I can't find 3 or 4 just when it getting interesting
You sure are getting better and better! Congrats! I have some unsolicited advice: the top of the sill is a flat pannel with a 90° bend; you had 3 rust holes lined up, it would have been better to make only one patch pannel, less welding, les pannel weakening. Also, I would recommend getting a spot weld drill bit, will make your life easier and you won't have to dill through both pannels. Finally, for a perfect finnish and minimum use of filler, I would advice you to use tin to fill the welds on your patches. Hope this helps! You are doing awesome.
It`s getting better, really!
Skip that wax based undercoat for bar&chain oil, check out mustie1, he uses it all the time for spraying the bottom, after a drive over dusty roads, it builds a nice protective barrier. Wax based coating stays fine until one little chip comes off, water can creep behind it and do really bad...
Great work so far, keep the patience!
:-D
Keep up the great work dude! If can give my opinion, You’re welds are sitting on top of the metal and not getting good penetration. Trying messing around with you’re settings I’d start by raising the amps and lowering the wire speed. Also, you’ll be much happier if you just “spot weld” the patches in, running beads on thin metal can be very frustrating with blow outs and splatter causing dirty metal. Oh and last thing, snow you’re hand movements down. 👊🏼
The step-down in the previous patch allows for a quick'n dirty bondo-egalization. Where I learnt puttin' lipstick on pigs, they didn't even cut away most of the rustouts but hammered those in a bit and put new parts just over the old ones. Puff pastry from tin and iron-oxide 😂