When buying used Equipment goes WRONG
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- This Mini Excavator has more than earned its keep over the years, digging out floors, septic tanks, filtration beds etc. But she's starting to show the years of abuse and needed a fix to stop a potential catastrophic repair bill.
/ carlrogers
/ carlroge
www.carlrogers.co
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Bro please tell me the model name of your jcb please
And all the best from India👍
At 31.18 you got one more crack in front of the control boots . We rebuilding them ram you need to put hydraulic oil the seal before you put it back together
Hello bro modwl name of your jcb please
I dont play kids games!
The integrity shot. i died :D :D
Tip: interference-fit bushes are best put in the freezer for 30 mins before fitting...they just drop into place so no hammering. Also, best to not hit metal with metal, use a wood-block. Nice job overall.
I was thinking the same thing as he was whacking them in.
And just maybe...maybe a wee bit of lube! Would hate to be his girlfriend.
I’ve seen someone put them in liquid nitrogen to constrict them…then drop them right in.
Yep true 👍 and it won't be long before he goes to hospital with a broken toe as he wears sandals to work in 😮
Im sure hes in france so its ok there lol
Probably the best Ryan’s ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans on building a shed is hardly ever found. And Ryan takes the mystery out of different types of foundation options, etc. He even shows how to build a shed with different designs. Very comprehensive, covering different roofing materials, siding, etc.
The two outer teeth on the buckets are supposed to be crooked,pointing outwards.
There central longitudinal axis is aligned with the axis of the sidewalls on the bucket,to protect sidewall from wear when you dig.
They wear out instead of the bucket.
Once a bit worn, their length having reduced,you swap them with the inner ones,or change them,depending on what you dig,so the wear they suffer from.
The slow operating speed & heat on the lower (retract) side of your boom main cylinder are most likely due to damage to the o-ring between the piston and the rod, or in one or more of the seal rings on the outer diameter of your piston, especially since it looks like you guys used a hammer when installing both these items during reassembly. It is incredibly easy to accidentally cut cylinder seals and o-rings during reassembly & even experienced hydraulic technicians do it more often than you would think. If a seal or o-ring is damaged, much of the pressure bypasses around the piston, so you are losing pressure that is trying to force the cylinder to extend, causing the slower movement. Since pressure and temperature have a direct relationship, the increase in pressure as the hydraulic fluid shoves through the damaged area of the seal causes an increase in temperature in that fluid, so you will notice the retract side of the cylinder is notably hotter than the extend side. If the damage to the seal or o-ring is fairly large, you can lift the boom, release the control lever and the boom will often slowly drift down a small amount before the pressure on each side of the piston equalizes causing the boom to stop moving. You can positively determine if oil bypassing the piston in the boom cylinder is the actual issue without removing the cylinder from the machine and disassembling it using the following troubleshooting procedure: Shut the machine off and function the boom control in both directions to ensure you have bled the pressure off both sides of the piston. Now remove the hose from the raise (extend) port of the main boom cylinder and cap/plug both the hydraulic hose and the fitting on the cylinder (WARNING: Do this with actual hydraulic plugs/caps as you will be applying pressure to the cylinder next). Now start the machine and move the boom control to lower the boom. If the boom cylinder does not move, or moves just a tiny bit and then stops, the piston is NOT bypassing. From the description in the video, what you will most likely see happen instead is that your boom cylinder will actually begin to extend and lift the boom, even though you are applying pressure to the lower (retract) port of the cylinder and there is not even a hose hooked to the raise (extend) port. This happens because the surface area on the extend (raise) side of the piston is larger than the surface area on the back of the piston (since the cylinder rod is installed on that side) and the oil being applied to the retract side of the piston bypasses around the damaged piston ring/seal causing the pressure on both sides to equalize. However, since there is more surface area on the extend (raise) side of the piston for the hydraulic fluid to push against, the piston (and cylinder) are forced to extend. If this is what happens, you will need to remove the boom cylinder and carefully put another seal kit in it.
I realize I'm 4 months late, but I completely agree with your assessment here. If they haven't already it would be a good idea to take the lower arm off and check the seals. I've seen this more times than I care on heavy machinery as, as you mention, it is very easy to do. Even a tiny piece of dirt or silica in the line can cut the seals as well and allow for the pressure to bypass the arm causing enormous amounts of damage to the equipment if not addressed in a timely way. You will see scoring on the housing, or in the worse case a groove where the fluid has pushed past the seal and caused scoring to turn into a channel.
@@Dalec81 If the cylinder is hot and the lines are not you have a ram seal leaking. If you have a stethoscope handy you can listen for the leak. Or put your ear on the cylinder.
That was a very thorough explanation and they never thank you properly for the time you took writing it.... not good!
Wow! From my read, you know of which you write! Good brain, great mentor/s, instructors and clear, concise instructions.
@@bountyhuntermk2520 well done
If you cylinder is getting hot that is a sign of a damaged seal when you resealed the cylinder very common to happen and the slow speed indicates a leak in that direction . oil bypassing . pull it apart and reseal again this time don't force or beat it together. Hydraulic Tech retired from Paup Munroe Hydraulics& Berendsen fluid power.
I was cringing when I saw them being hammered on. It's an easy way to nick an o-ring!
You best use oil on the O-rings during assembling, don't wipe/dry them off with a cloth. Rubber can roll up when it's dry.
Yep your a gentleman and it won't be long before he goes to hospital with a broken toe as he wears sandals... 😮
@@richardtaylor2449
Ten years working with sandals on job site. Not a nail up the foot, not a dropped thing on a toe. Idiots hurt themselves.
@@calculator1841 Good but it's a very big risk i wouldn't take 😮👀
Just love a guy that cleans his job up first instead of working in grease rust and oil this is how you spot everything that's broken and it makes it look new when its all finished good job guys
Just the right amount of voice over & ambient sound. I hate strictly visual posts.
At 16:03 you will see a groove cut round the inner diameter of the eye. That is for grease so that no matter where the holes are in the bushing they all get grease.
this.
I think making the hole line up is for the worse. The pressure in the the other holes for the grease is now lower thus they get less grease and the grease is spread unevenly....
Fell off my chair laughing-digger tooth cleaning is an often overlooked detail.
It took me 5 min till i even got that joke …. While wondering what will the toothpaste do with that tool!
What brand of tootpaste does JCB recommand, anyway!!??
@@Simon_van_BentumAnything fluoride-free : )
Same I was going to ask about that until I saw this comment 😂
Recoveri g from illness, been bingewatching your videos all afternoon. What a treat to find a new one! Thanks Carl
On the main boom cylinder, if the u-cup seal (the blue one) is installed backward, it will allow oil to bypass inside the cylinder and cause loss of power and heating of the oil
Close but the blue one does not go on the piston... installed backwards it would make the cylinder an oil fountain.
On the bucket teeth bolts put dome nuts on top of the self locking nuts so the threads do not get damaged so easy to remove next time
Don't forget to use toothpaste on those bucket teeth BEFORE and AFTER operating the machine. This is very often overseen and could cause severe tooth problems later on! Check the old teeth..never been regularly brushed and already replaced at this age . Finally someone is addressing this!
His toothpaste joke went over my head until I read your comment.
Yeah and don't forget to floss...
Everybody knows that!!!
You could reinstall the old teeth in between the new teeth and have the most british looking excavator lol.
Arent the uk higher in the world for dental hygiene that the USA tho?
@@nathanwalker7634 If I had to be factual, it wouldn't be much of a joke, would it.
😂
But wouldn't you have to install them all crooked like? 😉
Yeah! Lets all have Fake ones like the Yanks
You and your father are a jack of all trades and masters of all of them. How wonderful to be so knowledgeable! Great job on the repairs.
Carl.. isn't it amazing the ways those fellas like your dad, always finds solutions. Even in things that the have never worked with. Its a pleasure to work with them and just watch the way the thing. I my shelf building a house and its a complete experience working with my dad. Great video's.keep it on ..
Good job, guys! All it takes is good mechanical skills and some determination, which you obviously have. You and your dad make a great team!
Hi Carl, nice to see you read and reply to comments. I'm quite cheerful btw. All respect for your carpentry and roofing skills, but why post stuff for the world to see if you can't take a bit of positive critique?
I've spend decades around plant workshops and was chewed out 1st day by the foreman for going in to collect an excavator wearing veldskoen (rawhide shoes). Next day, a worker wearing thongs and helping carry a box of CAT245 teeth had the bottom fall out of the box and lost three toes.
Now, put your big boy trousers on and get down to Bricomart and buy yourself and the girl with the pretty painted toe nails a pair of €19.95 safety boots!
haha that sounds so familiar
"when I was your age I (insert something your body isn't made for)" spoken by a man that can't get up from a chair at 55 😂
@carlrogers I recently ordered a pair of Birkenstock QS 700. Its a pair of safetyshoes but it's "barefoot-appropved". Wide, flat sole etc. Just buy a pair of really flat insoles and they're good to go. Just a tip since ive seen you using vivos :)
@@Baer1990 I guess I'm luck at 60 that I'm still climbing up scaffolding, tiling roofs then 😉
@@stephengrimmer35 Smart people last longer 😉👌
Open toed sandals ! Ouch that's going hurt. The thing is if you don't wear steels you can't squeak when it goes wrong. And it always does in the end
These machines are meant to last generations. It is wonderful that you, your dad, and your local farmer know how to tackle such a project.
I recommend your videos all the time.
See you in your next video.
Cheers Null!
It makes you appreciate things more when you put that much love in it. Great ☺️
All those little things that crop up and stop you doing the primary job. 8 years on in Portugal and its still happening to me. Maintenance now takes up more than half of my available time. Good job!
Probably everyone has mentioned it already, but you can place those pins & bushings in a freezer for an hour and they'll drop in much easier. Also, hydraulic presses are awesome for that job. Methinks you'll need to tackle your kingpin sooner than later since its off-spec movements probably caused the cracking.
Good job. I love to see Dad and Lad working together. That’s why I’m such a good mechanic now. 👍
Your Raid advertorial was one of the funniest and classiest bits of comedy I've ever seen. Your 'air punch' had superb comedy timing. I actually laughed out loud. I salute you - and want to get Raid at the same time. You honoured Raid's money and your own integrity at the same time using English humour. It's a wwapon only we know how to wield.
The hole doesn’t need to be aligned since there is a grove on the inside which let’s the grease go around
It's actually better not to align the hole, the grease will go to the opposite side better if you put it 90 degrees off
@@derektroost6980 I noticed the groove on the old bushes that came out but I couldn't make one out on the new bushes so maybe he did need to line up the holes
@@davidtaylor8244 the groove is on the inside of the bore that the bushing goes into. You can see it at about 16:10 or so
@@derektroost6980 if the Bush presents a solid face to the hole, having a groove round the inside will not make any difference, the grease can't get in, this was the problem in the first place, many bushes have a helical groove to distribute the grease over the whole pin but it still has to get in.
@@CrusaderSports250 not if the groove lines up with the grease zerk hole, then it becomes a grease channel that allows the grease to go around the bushing and come out 2 places instead of 1.
Those pins looked practically new compared to the pins on my track loader when I bought it. Nice to see others having "fun" working on their heavy equipment too.
The hydraulic cylinder issue could be air, you would be compressing the air instead of moving the hydraulic fluid causing slow extending of the cylinder and the air would heat up as it was compressed
this.
Thanks chaps, we bled the system of sir and seems to have sorted it, but thought id leave it in the video to get some feedback
Indeed this. Always bleed the system of air. Some do it by themselves but need some additional switch pushed. And if you have any records, swap the oil every 1000 or so hours. Or just change them if you never did so, its not hard, especially not with your skill set. It will improve the digger's responsiveness a lot and fix those 'its faster up than down' things.
@@carlroge as it happens....I worked for the hydraulic ram supplier to JCB in the 1990's. I developed that boom raise ram with its "cushion bush" damper. The bush you fitted to the rod, adjacent to the piston is actually tapered by 4 minutes and it throttles the oil flow through the gland at the last 50mm of travel. This is to prevent the boom whacking at the end of the strokel and your bucket of muck flying out. It will get very hot as the hydraulic oil is squeezed through the gap between the bush and gland. Suffice to say, it's vital to it's operation that you fit it the correct way round!
One thing I don't recognise is the little white things your dad placed in the gland oil holes.
Edit: the grease holes in the bronze bushes don't have to line up with the grease nipples. There is a grease groove around the ram eye bore.
@@thomaswykes3647 I was very upset that he didn't see there was a grease groove
Great work using limited tools. However, as someone who came very close to losing a toe in an industrial accident (and no, I wasn't wearing safety footwear) sandals are not safe when working around equipment. One slip and you could lose one or more toes in an instant.
You can get spiffy little trigger things to put on spray cans to press the nozzle. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the fingertips.
Good to see you wearing steel toe-capped sandals. I hope the local farmer is a surgeon as well as a welder.
😂
At least wear sneakers like pops.
Cool job guys, I bet you had lots of fun along the way. Thanks for sharing your project.
I’m thinking the worn and unbalanced kingpin was probably the cause of your cracks in the first place. Your repair might have been Kind of like building on top of a cracked foundation. Don’t let it go too long before you do king pin.
Very neat tip to use the plastic glove fingers to cover the hydraulic hoses..many thanks for that.
nothing to do with it..
That boom was flopping about on the kingpin. Pretty obvious when working on the test dirt pile.
Despite the critics I say nice job at tackling the job of maintaining your equipment even if it meant learning on the job. with some slight imperfections the machine for sure is in a much better spot then when you started. Good job gentlemen and ladies.
That grinder cutting was METAL. Looked like a good way to get the aggression out.
You should never grind those welds. I'm questioning if the welds will hold. I can see voids in some of the welds. A professional would have likely created additional plates to go around those large pin holes to strengthen the area. I think you might be doing this again in a short time depending on how hard you are on that machine.
My thoughts exactly
Mine too
Yup, thought the same exact thing when they popped it in the trunk. "That repair could use plates over the cracks for reinforcement". Then I seen him grinding the welds and was like "Noooooo!!!" Literally likely those welds were like that and those areas for a reason. Wasn't the prettiest job but for the purpose of safety and stopping the cracks from reappearing, definitely shouldn't have grinded them down.
Plates are not always appropriate, they cause problems of their own:
ua-cam.com/video/6pt6YOMRt-M/v-deo.html
Grinding welds can stop cracks from forming in some cases.
You might have air in the slow cylinder, did you bleed everything after refitting? Otherwise might be some debris in the annulus. Try disconnecting the relevant hose and exercising the controls catching the oil in a bucket.
He did, he posted somewhere else saying they figured it out before the video finished but figured hed leave it in for feedback. You are correct though it was the air.
@@SixSnax thanks for your support. Glad to know that my 30+ years experience was not wasted.
@Anony Mouse LOL
Great work. Very much like seeing good maintenance like this. Very interesting to see it being done. Looking forward to the kingpin job...and the other building restoration work.
If the cracks continue to appear on the excavator (tired material) the next step would be to cut and weld reinforcement plates around the most stressed area. The idea is to distribute the stress and not to have any sharp edges, look for the ones installed at the factory for example. The easiest is if you know cad and order these from online laser shop etc. Really enjoy your channel & the work you do on the buildings!
I like your channel because it reminds me of my father. My father re-purposed everything he found whether given to him or just thrown away. The only time I saw my mother lose it was when he brought home old toilets from a nunnery. It was the only battle he lost to Mom. I still laugh over my dad's face as the toilets went to the junkyard.
Carl dear Carl. Never ever carry out any building mechanical maintenance in desert wheelies Jesus boot or any other stupid footwear. You will one day end up with no toes. A man I know very well lost half his foot wearing incorrect footwear and an amount of bad luck. Tool belt is a great addition to my build. Thanks.👍🏻👍🏻
As someone who HAS lost half of one of his feet from a work accident, I can tell you steel toed boots don't always save you.
@@TdrSld Clogs! Clogs are the answer! Better results in safety tests on many accounts, except skid resistance of course
@@beeldhouwerijvanvelzen1533 mm
You always get these dire safety warnings if you make a video involving mechanical stuff.
He should have opted for a sturdy pair of flip-flops.....
@@TdrSld Not really an answer though, is it? A hard hat won't save you from a 10 tonne load, but that's not a reason not to wear one.
I will try to give you a tip for the future considering how you were cutting the bolt. I think it would be easier if you cut the bolt and nut directly from above at the center of the bolt. That way you cut the nut into half and you can pluck out the nut to sides and then bolt becomes free. Basically what im saying is you were cutting the bolt in half when im suggesting you cut the nut in half vertically. Im not sure if you understood me :D. Also nice work on the video :) !!
And he should have used a cutting disc, not grinding disc.
I have binge watched all your videos while in quarantine. They're great! Keep them coming.
Simply the best application of a pair of old canterbury rugby shaorts on youtube.
Nice maintenance work, but you should invest in steel toe security shoes...
great video and work guys - well done! really enjoyed watching - thanks for sharing!
no tengo ninguna idea de mecanica, ni de hidraulica, pero me senti muy satisfecha con las reparaciones que le realizaste a esta hermosa maquina. espero cuando puedan sigan reparandola... espero que los inconvenientes que tienes con el liquido hidraulico se solucionen. saludos desde Argentina!!!
A good idea adding an extra fillet over the welded area, the bushes are not supposed to be lined up with the hole, you will only get grease into the bearing through one hole that way, there is a groove around the inside of the housing to carry grease to all four holes if you push the bush in, (after getting it out of the freezer) to block the entry point, and force it around the bearing, I cant believe the mast has cracked that badly after just home use. Good luck with that.
0:59 Long download time!!
Good to see peeps caring for/restoring their tools. One thing is certain, if you embark on something like this, you need a shed load of tools and the right tools too.
Looks brilliant - great job!
That hydraulic fluid spraying all over you guys was an epic scene
When you replace your lights, consider replacing with a LED bar rather than individual ones - far greater light output and lower current consumption too.
On the 22 second mark I noticed someone pushing what I think was a 1978 Suzuki TS-125 motorcycle. I had one too, it was my very first street motorcycle. Seeing that brought back some great memories. Yours looks to be in good shape for being 40+ years old. Cool!
That's not that bad of a repair for a used machine. You guys are really resourceful.
That bottle of integrity tonic was awfully small...😂
I'm greatly enjoying binge watching all your videos. I'm really glad they popped up in my feed. Your craftsmanship is beautiful!
If you ever put brass bushings in again may I suggest you put them in the freezer overnight to shrink them first. This makes them a lot easier to slide in..
Those bushes go in a lot easier if you put them in the fridge for half an hour first ;)
And press them in with the vice in front of him
@@becton98 yeah wondered why he didn't use the vice as a press 🙈
@@E9JMX I'm no mechanic so thought I'd missed something 🤣
It doesn't need to, some of the copper bushing have a slot...
@@ernestospadolesto8126 what is a copper cans? do you mean copper bushing?
Back in the 1980s, a friend bought a VW Golf that had been set up for road rallying. After a few weeks he discovered the body shell was literally cracking up due to stresses that a normal road car might never see. He ended up buying a new body shell but he never got around to doing a full rally prep.
These slugs or outer pin anchor points should have been veed out re-welded ground back and a plate cut to fit over the outer collar and welded in place to stop stress fracture next time.
This area it's obviously a week point and to strengthen it now would have save you another welding job later on down the track
Plates are not always appropriate, they cause problems of their own:
ua-cam.com/video/6pt6YOMRt-M/v-deo.html
@@gezski Fair enough good point in some situations yep depending where there been welded too
Absolutely fantastic , how to fix a JCB. One day I will need to do this, Thank you ! Just brilliant
Press fit or shrink fit bushing design and installation is a common method of retaining bearings by use of interference between the bushing and the bushing hole. Bushings are available in standard sizes with both inside and outside diameters surfaces finished, and are commonly available in many sizes.
Typically, bushings are designed and manufactured 0.002 to 0.003 inch over nominal on outside diameter sizes for sizes 3 inches or less. Diameters greater than 3 inches, the outside diameters are designed 0.003 to 0.005 inch over the nominal size. Because interference material is built into the bushings, and the bushing is normally manufactured to tolerances of +/- .0002. The effective interference of the press fit is designed and facilitated within the target hole which the bushing is installed.
The process of press or shrink fitting the bushing into the hole, causes the bearing reduce in size due to the compressive forces applied. Additionally, the material which the bushing has been pressed into distorts some as well. In general, this diameter changes are equal to 70 to 100 per cent of the amount of the material interference or fit. Unfortunately, precisely or mathematically predicting the size change due to the effective compressive forces applied during installation has not been shown to be accurate. Typical installation compression forces and effective diameter changes may be modeled or characterized by fabricating several test cases and measuring the range and variations of the actual fit. Often, bushings are designed with additional diametrical material requiring a post press fit installation machine process to accurately ream to the desired diameter.
Shrink fits are facilitated by chilling the bushing using a suitable median, such as liquid nitrogen, dry ice, or placing the bushing within a freezer. Cooling down the bushing is preferred rather than heating the target housing. Normally, the bushing is of significantly less mass than the target housing, though heating the housing and simultaneously cooling the bushing is no uncommon .
When a bushing or bearings are pressed into a housing, the force driving the bushing / bearing should be applied equally or uniform to the end of the bearing to avoid galling, peening or damaging the bushing / bearing. The mating surfaces of both the bushing and housing should be thoroughly cleaned and imperfections as well as burrs removed.
Re: the king pin. Whenever anyone says they'll replace an item later, I have to ask the question, what year? Unless there is a maintenance schedule being followed to the letter, experience says it will never happen. And always best to replace Nyloc nuts, rather than re-use old ones. Bit late I know but I find a small hydraulic press far better to use than hitting bushes, bearings and the like with a hammer. But you got there! Well done.
Regarding bushes, in the absence of a press I've used a vice.
As for "later", sometimes you just have to delay a job as a more-urgent use for the machine comes up (can anyone say "soil must be moved for planting sooner than the full pin-and-bush-replacement could be finished"?). It's essentially the same as pushing past the pain, or using the battle-override. And Carl actually *has* the new kingpin and bushes ready.
If you pack the bushing in dry ice, they often FALL into the hole or only take light tapping. However, you have to be fairly fast and make sure you don't jam it at an angle. I use this trick on small and large bushings and even if you still have to tap on them it doesn't take much force. When rebushing the bucket end of the stick on a 45 ton excavator you can't get a lot of parts into a press (if you even take them off the machine in the first place
Ah the secret to Nylocs is to whack them with a hammer and compress the nylon, that's the proper farmer's way the nut's fine it's just lost a bit of nylon, giving it a thump flat on top on a bench and it's as good as new.
By the way it's not just farmers it's pretty much anyone
Nice to see a father and son working together
You dont really want the hole in in the bushing to line up with the grease port. The machined hole in the eye has a grease passage machined in it to allow it to push lube threw all the holes.
Now that’s clever
Bravo for tackling that job! We're probably not far from you, we live just over the border in the Tarn-et-Garonne.
You had me for a second with the Toothpaste! 😂 👌
Sheesh! Nothing is easy with that contraption. I commend you for your patience. Although, it was funny watching you take one last aggressive grind at that bolt.
That sponsor block was golden my guy.
Something different but really cool. As always thanks great video. Great to see a pommy working cheers from Australia.
The problem with the speed is caused by the white plugs you put in the hole at 23:20 in the video.
Remove them and i promise that your problem is solved..
it's supposed to be e free flow of hydraulic liquid in those holes..
Greetings from a Swedish hydraulic specialist..
26:12 - what a sign of excitement :D excellent job and video too!
Nice job and what a stunning property. Thanks for sharing.
Outstanding attention to detail
You Germans did a wonderful job I don’t know much about what you did I live in New Jersey but watching it was entertaining for me my name is pete you guys have a wonderful life
Great video. Maybe not the best idea to be doing that king of work in shorts and sandals though 😂
Dobrý večer chlapi. Velmi rád se dívám na všechny vaše videa rekonstrukce té rozvaliny. Klobouk dolu před vaší zručností co se týče práce se dřevem a zedničiny. Líbí se mě vaše přesnost a pečlivost s jakou vše děláte. Obdivuji vás, jen bych vám nakonec doporučil, abyste se obrovským obloukem vyhnuli strojařině. To je děs, to mě bolí u srdce. Mějte se fajn a čest vaší práci Lx Praha
Gents: get yourselves some safety shoes before you do much more. Sooner or later you're going to drop something heavy on a toe. While you're at it, safety eyewear too.
Incredible satisfying to watch - very nice work!
I directly want to start doing the same on my old Kubota 🙂
Good job and well done!!!
That 7/8" wrench in the cradle of the metric system.
Merde!
Next time if you need to put bushings in, get some canned air that is used for spraying dust off of computers and turn the can upside down and freeze the bushing, which will make it shrink a little bit and it will go in much smoother. Hope this helps in the future.
Lots of work for sure!. If you ever have to put brass bushings in those again like at 16:50 or so, you could also line it up and use the vice to press it in vs pounding. That can work better with a metal plate to push against vs the wood, but I saw you have some flat stock you were pounding on. That can be a more controlled insert vs pounding. That also works to put bearings onto a shaft if you take your time and line it up. I did that method when I put new bearings on my drill press restore project. Using a vice or press is much preferred vs pounding. :) Less chance of damaging the pieces as well. Though in my case I did split the wood on my wood vice and so moved it to my metal vice instead which worked better.
When installing new hydraulic cylinder seals soak them in very hot water for a few minutes prior to installation. The heat will soften the seals and make them more pliable so they go on easier.
Did you freeze the bushes first? Go in easy if you do. Does the boom stay fully extended for a long period if you leave it? Wondering if oil is passing the seal making it slower on the way up against load.
Was expecting an advert for JCB branded condoms
Wow I really like the old barn that the digger is parked in. Looks really cool
The dog is the real hero in this video!
You could have just drilled a new hole in the old bushing, no need to take it out.
It would have been worn from lack of lubrication so what they did was correct.
Been watching your channel today. I'm a cabinet maker/ carpenter.. think the work you've been doing + the production of your videos is amazing.. Integrity tonic ha ha! 😂
The slow hydronic response is due to trapped air. Breed the cylinder you will hear the air escaping. Add more fluid afterwards.
Remember to change or check the oil in the track gearboxes.
Everybody forgets to do this and they are very expensive when they fail.
Yum, the gas main smell of neglected final drive gear oil 🤮.
Big job, lot's of labor, just kind of surprised you didn't do anything to expand the strength of the area where the boom cracked. Expected to see some sort of doubling plates to spread the load !!!
Extra steel was added, its a common fault on these lighter machines from jcb to have fatigue cracks in this area its just not built to a quality but down to a price.
I didn’t understand why you didn’t grind the bolt heads off (for the bucket teeth) instead of the nuts. The head should have been easier to reach. Also using anti-seize on a nylon lock nut doesn’t make sense they have nylon inserts. OBTW those nylon lock nuts will fail in that application so be ready to replace them.
I think because you only have to cut the nut in half, only on one side really. He cut them completely in half. on the head side you would have to cut the whole head off to get the same result. On the nut it's just one kerf of the blade.
Couldn't it just be air in the cylinder ?
no
@@euanbob2321 Yes. The compression of air causes more heat than the compression of hydraulic fluid.
It could be but you’d normally get cavitation / vibration and some groaning type noises as well with air (in my experience at least). And the oil flow would normally push the air back to tank in most cases shortly after refitting - the tank goes kind of froffy while the system sort of self bleeds but it is best to get the air out. Could be oil by passing a seal causing the heat which would cause cylinder to cycle slowly. Try doing a leak off test to find out if it’s by passing oil. My guess is it is so you’ll have to pull the rod to see what’s going on with the gland seals.
Done slowly catching up on all the other vids very top class videos
Andrew Camarata would approve. :D
the goat!
@@carlroge hes a bit crash bang wallop for my taste, now, lets dig18 on the other hand...
@@kevinwillis6707 i like carl and andrews videos a lot, lets dig its too much cockpit footage and gets me feeling travel sick haha!
Almost same quality repair as abom79
We would weld the cracks... Without welding it ill just keep on breaking
With the hydraulic cylinders being singles, I would say check the actuator settings for that circuit. Most you can adjust the pressure settings. You might have not noticed it before with all the issues and seal leaks. Another might be that when installing the seals. If the seal on the cylinder's piston has a bad lip on one side pressurized fluid can pass to the other side bleeding off pressure. Putting pressure on the other side will stop the leak as the lip (if it too isn't damaged) is now stopping any leak/flow to the other side. Most hydraulic cylinders that can be pressurized in both directions have a double lipped seal so that pressure forces the seal against the cylinder wall on the pressure side and merely slides on the other.
One clue to the seal condition might be motor sound when the slide is at full retract or full extend. When a hydraulic cylinder reaches the end of travel pressure goes to max and motor sounds more labored. You can also usually hear the sound of the pressure relief valve bypassing fluid. Kind of like when you turn your steering wheel to one side limit or the other and hear the power steering pump bypass fluid. Try holding the switch down in both positions. If you don't hear a change in the pump sound when it reaches the full out position it's POSSIBLE you have a bad cylinder.
Your edition skills are the best !
“Slow when given head pressure” and “warm on the rod side” - possible internal fluid bypassing.