I always keep the electronics out of one of those CFLs because they always have at least one and often two ferrite cores which are great for winding a Joule Thief coil. There's always a toroid core in there, and often you'll find another, cylindrically wound coil. You can unwind the cylindrically wound coil and you get enough wire to both re-wind the coil for a Joule Thief and to wind a new Joule Thief coil on the toroid. If there's only the toroid, you can steal the wire for the Joule Thief coil from the inductor. I haven't tried to re-wind the inductor yet, because it's too difficult to get it unwound while preserving the ferrite core intact. Still, getting two coils out of one CFL is pretty good. I've wired the Joule Thief circuit into a few of those cheap LED chains which normally use two AA cells in series so that you can use just one cell to drive the LEDs. My impression has been that it runs at least as long with only one cell going through the Joule Thief circuit as it did with two cells directly driving the LED chain.
If you take the lamp that works together with that pink lamp, put them in the refrigerator for a while, I wonder if you might be able to see the mercury? If it is such a large amount you are able to see it? Another thing; I have always wondered about that powerstrip with that yellow multimeter connected to it... It measures power? How do you do that? Does that power-strip have more tricks up it's sleeve? Topic for a video perhaps?
I wonder if something has changed that reduced the effective florescence of the phosphor. I remember that there was a reasonably common failure mode with CCFL LCD panels in laptops where the backlight would turn pink, it was always the CCFL in the panel that had become faulty.
This one is new, it is like this from the beginning. The phosphor seems ok, but the gas filling is probably wrong. Normally, you can see the typical cyan glow of mercury at the ends of the tube where the phosphor is missing. Threre's no cyan glow.
@@DiodeGoneWild absolutely, it's a lamp that made it out of the factory when it should have been rejected. It's a cool looking tube though you should have kept it as a curiosity... Thanks for showing Steve
Mercury starved fluorescent tube. Normally CFLs doesn't get mercury starved, this is the first time I see it. Or it could have been that the driver failed and the tube received enough voltage for arc ignition but not much current at all so the discharge is so weak it does not produce enough UV to excite any other phosphor that is in the triphosphor blend and only excites the one that is easiest, witch is the pink one thus the tube glows pink. I have seen it happen in cheap electronic ballasts. Philips TL-D Master F36T8 Warm white tubes lit up in barely visible pink color because driver does not provide enough arcing current and the tube is extremely dim.Usually if that happens it means that the switching transistor is bad and doesn't switch at a high current
I've been wanting one of these bad bulbs for some time now since they just look really cool in my opinion and I have made a driver for it already, working well on working tubes but I don't have any of these worn out tubes yet. Edit 1 year later: I finally got one, though unfortunately my driver cannot drive it since it's 22 watts or maybe 27, and my driver can only do about 15 so the tube does not fully start.
What's the difference between brave and stupid though? I don't know, a bit of electrical tape here and there, some asbestos gloves, and a blast shield wouldn't hurt.
These GU CLF hardly catched on for replacements for Halogen took so long to warm up, Remember Hilton Hotel using them for the bedrooms and having to wait a minute least to see what you were doing.
Мощность лампы при поднесении к ней магнита увеличивается из-за того, что индуктивность досселя, который ограничивает ток лампы, падает. Так делать не очень хорошо; если переборщить, можно испортить электронный балласт.
What an odd effect, did you try a pcb from another flourescent bulb, perhaps slightly more modern with two transistors? I keep the pcbs from the ones with dead tubes, most pcbs checkout fine, i dont like throwing away usable parts.
Yep just like me, when one of my flourescents stop dead for no reason, its usually the capacitor between the heaters, my draw of pcbs often have a good capacitor :-). Its not that i dont want to buy a new bulb, i think its worth a go at repairing it, also i come from a family with very little money so i try not to waste usefull stuff. Im sure you know what i mean :-)
I also repair them just because I'm curious what is the fault and it's always a challenge trying to make it work again :). Of course, the time spent is worth more than the lamp...
@@question_mark67 10k temp is too low to see light, 100k still not hot enough, 700k you might be able to see it glow red, 1000k temp is towards red, 2000k is orangy yellow, 2700k is warm white, 3000k is led warm white, 4000k is neutral white, 5000k is cloudy light, 6400k is daylight and temperatures like 11000k are very blue.
That nice pink color is caused by mercury starvation they done put enuf mercury in because of all the eco crap these days so if any is absorbed by the coating on the glass there isn't enough to give a white light
The tube actually runs on high frequency AC square wave. Polarity doesn't matter. The only important thing, is that each filament is connected to it end of the power supply. It's basically a "rapid start" configuration, but runs at about 40 kHz.
This color is so cool and it probably takes more power because the magnets atracts the electrons in the tube and makes it easear for them to get from the cathode to the anode
Look up magnetic hysteresis. The magnet saturates the transformer core reducing the efficiency. You can burn out the power supply by subjecting it to the magnet. More study on the subject en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturable_reactor
The inductor acts as a ballast, it limits the current and thefore the power to the tube, when you put it near to the magnet the inductor core starts to saturate, this will allow more cirrent through the inductor increasing the power.
Splitfire pilot; No, the magnet causes emitted electrons to spiral through the gas path, ionising more of the gas in the process. More ions causes more currenr flow at mostly the same voltage. Secondly, he didn't have the ferrite close enough to the magnet for what you suggested to happen. The transformer would also saturate in that case anyway, causing the power to drop. Which one will win in that case, I don't know, but it will definitely not just be like the choke isn't there.
Accepted your probably right about the chemistry, not my scene. And yes a transformer secondary output would reduce if saturated, however the few Cfl's I've pulled to bits used a choke not a transformer.
I really like your videos but the way you handle the main voltage is horrible and may encourage some rookies to do so. Do not do it. It kills you no matter how pro you are
I like your videos, but please, don't show on any video this bad dangerous habit handling main voltage. Your hand is dangerously near to both(!) living wires. For me, it is like a gun video, where some folk pointing loaded gun in his face,.... it's horible to see.Maybe an exprerienced technician, who working with main voltages all day long, newer showing this level of ignorance about the danger.Just main voltage itself wil not kill one, if he has good skin resistance, and sitting or standing on a warm floor, maybe we can't even feel anything, when touching it.If the situation is more dangerous, there is isolation transformers, fi relays, lot of stuff to save life.But, when somebody getting himself right into the circuit, touching live and neutral simultanously, death or serious injury may occur.Okay, do this, if you like it, your life, your hand, your health, but please don't advertise this habit, in your videos.I'm not going to report your channel to youtube, or something, just i'm trying ask polite, please.
Don't do the dangerous thing especially in public eyes. A lot of youngest may imitate and commit suicide. Also give the viewer an impression that you are not a qualified electrician.
That's because their isn't enough mercury in it, so the phosphors glow dimly. This is called mercury starvation.
Mercury starvation
This thing is not found in high school .tube light bulbs chapter. I luckely see this phenomenon at the age of 15 in 15 watt cfl
I love coming back to the old videos to see how much his voice has changed, try it yourself it is astounding,
It's like listening to an electrian version of Chef John from Food Wishes. Awesome!
I always keep the electronics out of one of those CFLs because they always have at least one and often two ferrite cores which are great for winding a Joule Thief coil.
There's always a toroid core in there, and often you'll find another, cylindrically wound coil. You can unwind the cylindrically wound coil and you get enough wire to both re-wind the coil for a Joule Thief and to wind a new Joule Thief coil on the toroid.
If there's only the toroid, you can steal the wire for the Joule Thief coil from the inductor. I haven't tried to re-wind the inductor yet, because it's too difficult to get it unwound while preserving the ferrite core intact.
Still, getting two coils out of one CFL is pretty good.
I've wired the Joule Thief circuit into a few of those cheap LED chains which normally use two AA cells in series so that you can use just one cell to drive the LEDs. My impression has been that it runs at least as long with only one cell going through the Joule Thief circuit as it did with two cells directly driving the LED chain.
This lamp is what words "joule thief" realy mean. We need new name for joule harvester. For example joule harvester...
To open the transformer core without cracking it, you can put it in a boiling water for a few minutes
"No human being should let me do this!" Well, if someone can buy me a plane ticket, I'll go over there and stop you myself! :P
Last time I was making a joule thief out of such CFL I was amazed how many components are in it.
It's perfect for Big Clive!
It's useless as a non-decorative light, but it definitely is very lovely!
Yeah it's pink.
It's the right color, but I'm not sure it's "lurid" enough a pink.... 😉
Pink means the bulb is starving which means it's losing mercury vapor
If you take the lamp that works together with that pink lamp, put them in the refrigerator for a while, I wonder if you might be able to see the mercury? If it is such a large amount you are able to see it?
Another thing; I have always wondered about that powerstrip with that yellow multimeter connected to it... It measures power? How do you do that? Does that power-strip have more tricks up it's sleeve? Topic for a video perhaps?
This is what's inside the power-strip :).
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
Ah, ok. So that is the secret : )
Interesting.
I wonder if something has changed that reduced the effective florescence of the phosphor. I remember that there was a reasonably common failure mode with CCFL LCD panels in laptops where the backlight would turn pink, it was always the CCFL in the panel that had become faulty.
This one is new, it is like this from the beginning. The phosphor seems ok, but the gas filling is probably wrong. Normally, you can see the typical cyan glow of mercury at the ends of the tube where the phosphor is missing. Threre's no cyan glow.
Alex West
The mercury is lost or lost and you are left with an argon discharge
@@DiodeGoneWild absolutely, it's a lamp that made it out of the factory when it should have been rejected. It's a cool looking tube though you should have kept it as a curiosity...
Thanks for showing
Steve
How you convert the multimeter to a Watt metter? I see the meter are just set to mV...?
It's simple :) My homemade wattmeter is built into the power strip. This one:
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
Thanks for the fast reply!
Mercury starved fluorescent tube. Normally CFLs doesn't get mercury starved, this is the first time I see it. Or it could have been that the driver failed and the tube received enough voltage for arc ignition but not much current at all so the discharge is so weak it does not produce enough UV to excite any other phosphor that is in the triphosphor blend and only excites the one that is easiest, witch is the pink one thus the tube glows pink. I have seen it happen in cheap electronic ballasts. Philips TL-D Master F36T8 Warm white tubes lit up in barely visible pink color because driver does not provide enough arcing current and the tube is extremely dim.Usually if that happens it means that the switching transistor is bad and doesn't switch at a high current
The tube is mercury starved
I've been wanting one of these bad bulbs for some time now since they just look really cool in my opinion and I have made a driver for it already, working well on working tubes but I don't have any of these worn out tubes yet.
Edit 1 year later: I finally got one, though unfortunately my driver cannot drive it since it's 22 watts or maybe 27, and my driver can only do about 15 so the tube does not fully start.
quite brave you are.
What's the difference between brave and stupid though? I don't know, a bit of electrical tape here and there, some asbestos gloves, and a blast shield wouldn't hurt.
he says " no human should do this"
These GU CLF hardly catched on for replacements for Halogen took so long to warm up, Remember Hilton Hotel using them for the bedrooms and having to wait a minute least to see what you were doing.
here did the mercury go? im asking because i have a cfl it has the same fault but it was working fine for about 6 mounts
Old lamps may lose mercury by absorption.
Мощность лампы при поднесении к ней магнита увеличивается из-за того, что индуктивность досселя, который ограничивает ток лампы, падает. Так делать не очень хорошо; если переборщить, можно испортить электронный балласт.
I hope you have a good RCCB.
the phenomenon You was talking abbout is just blocking of electromegnetic gear of tranformator included in psu :)
Eventhough I know you're still alive and making videos, this video gives me several heart attacks lol
It would be interesting to see the spectrum through a diffraction grating.
Those wires are in no way safe for that dude. Get a socket
You don't understand the Slavic YOLO culture 😉
I think the power goes up with the magnetic field because of earlier saturation of the inductors
Omg those lose wires... I can't stop from laughing
What an odd effect, did you try a pcb from another flourescent bulb, perhaps slightly more modern with two transistors?
I keep the pcbs from the ones with dead tubes, most pcbs checkout fine, i dont like throwing away usable parts.
This one also has 2 transistors :). I also keep all the PCB's from those, the parts are sometimes useful :).
Yep just like me, when one of my flourescents stop dead for no reason, its usually the capacitor between the heaters, my draw of pcbs often have a good capacitor :-).
Its not that i dont want to buy a new bulb, i think its worth a go at repairing it, also i come from a family with very little money so i try not to waste usefull stuff.
Im sure you know what i mean :-)
I also repair them just because I'm curious what is the fault and it's always a challenge trying to make it work again :). Of course, the time spent is worth more than the lamp...
I have read that this is due to the mercury escaping the tube, somehow ...
I'm repairing cfl ..its a factory fault ..
Mercury-content deficiency
Solution Do Not Buy Cheap cfl bulb,
@@hamzamalik221
That's right
09:22 "Oh shit."
Plot twist
It was actually a 11,000K light temperature
You mean 1,200K
@@Jokid1146 he meant 11k
@@question_mark67 11k is very cool white tempourature. The bulb wiuld emit a cyan blue color
@@Jokid1146 11k is very warm red glow.
@@question_mark67 10k temp is too low to see light, 100k still not hot enough, 700k you might be able to see it glow red, 1000k temp is towards red, 2000k is orangy yellow, 2700k is warm white, 3000k is led warm white, 4000k is neutral white, 5000k is cloudy light, 6400k is daylight and temperatures like 11000k are very blue.
Ow shit!
Don't mess with mains voltage LOL
That nice pink color is caused by mercury starvation they done put enuf mercury in because of all the eco crap these days so if any is absorbed by the coating on the glass there isn't enough to give a white light
It's called RoHS, not "eco crap"
The mercury leaked out and it left the argon behind so it is just an argon discharge
But if the mercury leaked out, how come the argon is still in the tube? Shouldn't the argon be displaced with air since the tube is under a vacuum?
9:23 oh shit
@DiodeGoneWild, how can we suggest a teardown?
Merci!
j'ai eu une version de 1W qui a fini rose. ^^
9:29 why meter select to DC? And how they tell us how much watt they consume ? any video to explain ?
Is there a solder short across one of the two-turn windings on the toroidal transformer?
whats the tube wires polarity? or thats not polarized?
The tube actually runs on high frequency AC square wave. Polarity doesn't matter. The only important thing, is that each filament is connected to it end of the power supply. It's basically a "rapid start" configuration, but runs at about 40 kHz.
This color is so cool and it probably takes more power because the magnets atracts the electrons in the tube and makes it easear for them to get from the cathode to the anode
The mercury could have also leaked out before it was sealed with argon.
Can you explain how your power strip is a power meter?
Is that pink ulta violet light ?
How many volts does the tube work with?
100-240v
Hi dear. Please give the details of the power meter which you have used in this video....
It's on his website danyk.cz
Cool and interesting channel
It's pink due to mercury adsorption
Single touch to mains and you will be like?
i have a cfl that does the same thing but much newer design
Accidentally shorted lmao!
I still use some of them ;-)
Look up magnetic hysteresis. The magnet saturates the transformer core reducing the efficiency. You can burn out the power supply by subjecting it to the magnet. More study on the subject en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturable_reactor
Are we sure bi clive didn't get to it first?
how did you make your wattmeter?
Probably starved Mercury or something
Zajímavé :)
where is your cat?
Wher is maaa kheet
Natoč video jak funguje ten tvůj měřák odběru wattů :-) dost mne to zajímá.
danyk.cz/wmetr.html
Ten už je dostatečně popsanej tady :).
Jsem myslel video s popisem atd a jestli se ti chce tak to udělej jestli ne tak toto prosím ignoruj
Use petrol for removing those glue
Argon or neon gas
The inductor acts as a ballast, it limits the current and thefore the power to the tube, when you put it near to the magnet the inductor core starts to saturate, this will allow more cirrent through the inductor increasing the power.
Splitfire pilot; No, the magnet causes emitted electrons to spiral through the gas path, ionising more of the gas in the process. More ions causes more currenr flow at mostly the same voltage.
Secondly, he didn't have the ferrite close enough to the magnet for what you suggested to happen. The transformer would also saturate in that case anyway, causing the power to drop. Which one will win in that case, I don't know, but it will definitely not just be like the choke isn't there.
Accepted your probably right about the chemistry, not my scene.
And yes a transformer secondary output would reduce if saturated, however the few Cfl's I've pulled to bits used a choke not a transformer.
The tube is leak
Oh shit
I really like your videos but the way you handle the main voltage is horrible and may encourage some rookies to do so. Do not do it. It kills you no matter how pro you are
he'll be fine so long as he doesnt touch something connected to ground. he should really invest in an isolation transformer though
4.000 celvin actually is neutral white or more warm white.... not cool white..... cool white is 6.000 and above.
6000 and above was called daylight. Cool white was always colour 33 (Philips) or 20 (Osram), later called 640.
@@mjouwbuis i talk about actual color temperature. Not about some numbers imagined by manufractjrers.
You are crazy!!! You get shocked
Please dont play with electric
Technically 4000k is daylight which is a mix of soft white and cool white
oh Shit! 😂😂
Huh
That CFL reached EOL that's why its glowing pink
But this one was never used.
Did he say the “mains” voltage was coming from an AA battery? 10:08
No. He meant that he had just handled 230V as if it was a 1.5V AA Battery. Just look how he handles Mains voltage. Barely any safety measures.
He said “and yes i handle mains voltage as if it was an aa battery”
I like your videos, but please, don't show on any video this bad dangerous habit handling main voltage. Your hand is dangerously near to both(!) living wires. For me, it is like a gun video, where some folk pointing loaded gun in his face,.... it's horible to see.Maybe an exprerienced technician, who working with main voltages all day long, newer showing this level of ignorance about the danger.Just main voltage itself wil not kill one, if he has good skin resistance, and sitting or standing on a warm floor, maybe we can't even feel anything, when touching it.If the situation is more dangerous, there is isolation transformers, fi relays, lot of stuff to save life.But, when somebody getting himself right into the circuit, touching live and neutral simultanously, death or serious injury may occur.Okay, do this, if you like it, your life, your hand, your health, but please don't advertise this habit, in your videos.I'm not going to report your channel to youtube, or something, just i'm trying ask polite, please.
Don't do the dangerous thing especially in public eyes. A lot of youngest may imitate and commit suicide. Also give the viewer an impression that you are not a qualified electrician.
This sounds like one of those guys who would try the fake 'Free Energy' thing...
Left video at 0:11
I don't know what he said to make you think that. You probably should have watched a bit more.