I've done multiple cars this way and haven't had a single come back. I've had the same vehicle come in for brakes 3 years later and the headlights still look great.
I purchased a headlight restoration kit from Walmart today made by Rain-X. The kit comes with 3 grits of sandpaper, a wheel you attach to your drill, some fine compound and some clear coat sealer with a UV protectant. All that for under $22. Did an absolutely phenomenal job. Took probably 30 minutes all told and the lenses came out looking like new. (Not dissing your method- just saying there’s a quality kit out there for not a lot of $ and a lot less elbow grease.)
Those kits absolutely work, it’s just that typically they only last months to a year if the car is daily driven and especially parked outside. Granted for $22 you can do it every year and it is a viable option for sure.
Those kits work great. I’ve personally used the 3M kits. But the best solution is to go with an automotive clear coat as the restoration kit removes the UV protectant layer. You’ll have to keep adding UV Protestant wax on the headlights every month or so to prevent yellowing again.
That kit does work great. All the kits on the market do the job. The issue is, you need to restore the UV finish, otherwise, you will be back to square one again. That's where the clear coat comes into play.
The key is to get a clear coat that doesn't yellow and has built in UV protection. There are brands that are specifically for headlights. Krylon has a suitable clear coat that is affordable.
@@DmitrysGarageYou’re absolutely right! These restore kits make the headlights look good for a small period of time, but end up causing far more damage in the long run. This method is best by far
Gonna try this out! I used a headlight restoration kit and it messed my headlights up even more than before. Picked up one of my friends the other day and her husband was doing his headlights and looked at mine and took a Brillo pad to them 😳 and sprayed some crap on them. Now they’re super scratched and still foggy. Hopefully this method will put them back to looking good again. Really don’t want to purchase new headlights for my mustang.
From my experience 800 grit by hand will not be enough to remove heavy oxidation/yellowing, or will take a LOT of manual sanding. The 3M heavy duty kit includes 500 grit to be used with drill attachment, I'd start there.
that spraymax clear is the best you can get out of a can, but you shouldnt sand any finer than 1200 to give the clearcoat proper adhesion. It will end up flaking off after a while. Clear wants to fall into a 600-1000 grit scratch ideally.
Not sure how it will not hold after 2000 grit if properly clean and free of oils or waxes, and let cure properly for a week before adding anything or even getting wet.
I just used 3 cans of that exact clear coat a couple weeks ago. It wastes alot due to the insane wide pattern that does nothing but create overspray. If it had a decent spray pattern and didn't waste so much I could've got by with 1.5 cans at most. And that was me repainting a hood. The slicker the base is the better the clear is gonna look. It will adhere just fine because that's completely normal to use 2k grit before a clear if you want a mirror finish. The end result always depends on the quality your prep work. The cans of clear are 30$ each, so it's not a cheap clear
Doing my 3rd set, using lessons learned from owning a lot of cars over the past 50 years. Really bad headlights with pitting, start with 600 grit. Not so bad, start at 1200/1500. I do 1500, 2000, 2500 & 3000. Be sure to remove all the original clear coat. Then buff with buffing compound until they're clear. Then clean & clear coat. But try to keep the clear coat thin. When you buy a new car, don't wax the headlights. Never touch heaslights with a buffer. It will remove the protective coating. Be careful when buffing your hood not to hit them. Clean them gently with a sponge or microfiber only. No bug & tar remover. They will last 10-15 years if you leave them alone. Won't last 8 years if you mess with them.
Look great but I did heard once that you should never spray your headlights a it could distort the light. Wipe on ceramic worked well for me in the past😉
Hey I will be doing this on my Camaro tomorrow and just had a few questions. Why not use only 2000 grit sand paper? How long should I sand each side for with each sand paper? Also how long does this need to heal before I can start washing my car normally? Thank you!
You want the other grits to cut quickly and get bigger defects out. You work each grit until the surface feels uniformly smooth for that level of grit. 2000 will provide the smoothest finish at the end. Once the paint is cured you can start washing your car. I'd give it at least 48 hours to cure before washing, but depends on environmental conditions and how thick you spray.
The clear coat is the UV protection, but you should apply a wax/sealant/coating as you normally would to help protect the clear coat from oxidation and marring.
Yep, everyone wants to buff because it's a quick fix. It's ok on like a show car or garage queen, but other than that UV is going to reclaim it back very fast without a protective layer of clear.
Do you recommend any other clear costs that aren’t a one-time use? This is great, but I have do about 9 headlights a week and cant buy a can for very car. After a few hours, the can goes bad.
The benefit of this clear coat is that it has an activator/hardener in it. So this is why it works well and also goes bad, it's effectively real automotive clear coat. The only other recommendation I could make is to mix your own and spray professionally. This way you're making batches big enough for the job. May not be practical if you're doing mobile detailing though since you'll need a decent size air compressor tank. You can try other clear coats that don't use an activator/hardener, but I find they're very soft and susceptible to scratches while washing.
use 2k clear coat, you can buy them at almost any automotive paint store or even parts stores, you’ll need a spray gun with a tip size for clear and an air compressor, since you’re not spraying cars you can use a decent sized compressor so you can spray at least one light continuously
Try kbs diamond coat. I haven't tried it yet but you can roll it on or brush it etc... it has a self leveler in it. I'll be trying it this weekend with an adhesion promoter because I'm going to buff them out after sanding because I want a true restoration.
I didn't like it for headlights it did not level at all. Now the kbs would work great for other projects... but I am going to try one more way with the kbs on headlights.... and that is thinning it out with xylene because this clear is so thick.
You're not supposed to use clear coat past 800 grit sand paper. And I personally wouldn't use that clear at all. Just buy Meguiars headlight Restoration spray. It's made for headlights. Amazon has it.
That 2k clearcoat is made for paint and not plastic the 2part chemicals does not get along with polycarbonate. use the Meguires clear coat for headlights
Most headlights are polycarbonate not polypropylene these days. The 2K clear works fine on lenses, they even have a headlight specific 2k clear now (since making this video).
@@DmitrysGarage Yes i know that you are correct I started spelling it and saw it after i posted it. That is what happens when i try to post a comment on my phone thanks i fixed it.
my headlights still feel rough and look like the factory clearcoat is still peeling after doing this. They are slighter brighter and clearer however. Should I have sanded more until I felt that the headlight was completely smooth? Would going from 800 grit to 1500 to 2000 to 3000 achieve a really smooth surface? Could I just repeat all the steps or would that mess with the ceramic coat?
Hey Dmitry! SprayMAX now has a specific aerosol product that's better for poly-carbonate headlights than their 2k Glamour for paint. The new product (SprayMax SMT 3684068, 2K 2 in 1 Headlight Clear) has an adhesion promoter in it that more suitable for polycarb and the 2k clear cures to a lesser hardness that should allow it to take rock/sandblasts without chipping (I can feel a bit more give to it with my fingernail compared to the 2k glamour). The big reason I think people should switch is some people were putting on WAY too heavy of a first coat of the 2k glamour on the raw polycarbonate and it would cause massive crazing in the plastic due to the VOCs in paint not being suitable for polycarbonate. (A light/tack coat given proper flash time followed by a medium wet coat prevents this). The adhesion promoter in the new product prevents this and should also in theory give it a much stronger bond to the plastic than the 2k clear without any adpro. The new product also claims to contain uv inhibitor solid content that is so critical to keeping the polycarb from rapidly yellowing to UV rays in a few months. Here's a video idea for you - I was thinking it would be great if you could compare the UV blocking properties of the various aerosol 2k products for both clearcoats, paint, and headlight "protection/sealant" films. SprayMAX 2k glamour/matte/etc vs Car-Rep aka Eastman WISE2k clears/ 2k paints vs 1K clears vs headlight protection films that come with headlight kits like Meguiar's Headlight Coating etc. I think the rapid aging UV test of each would be VERY interesting. Also would be very interesting is comparing it when it used with a Clearcoat Blending agent to blend spot repairs into existing factory clearcoats - there's a debate saying that the blender transition disappears in a few years due to UV and ruins the seamless transition. Cheers!
Thanks for the great tip, havent seen the new product yet but it sounds pretty great. I do agree that heavy coats can cause crazing especially if the environmental conditions are bad. The video idea sounds pretty cool. Ill have to see how to best do that. Probably need some poly sheets in the UV weathering machine. I think its doable.
This is actually a discontinued product, Spraymax no longer carries it since it was so chemically similar to the 368 0061 cans. Adhesion promoter can etch the plastic a little too much and cause you to have to restart your project. I sell a lot of Spraymax products
Hi @@johnsalvatore97 . Are you sure? Because the product is still widely available and featured on the spraymax website? It doesnt seem chemically similar at all to me. I have both. The headlight clear is much less hard than the glamour clear and the cans even have different potlifes. You can also destroy the polycarbonate headlight by putting on too heavy of a first coat of just the clear glamour on the freshly sanded surface - extreme crazing and cracking examples abound on youtube. Any adhesion promoter is supposed to be applied lightly whereas clearcoat typically is not so it possible to damage with either method but by following the instructions for the headlight one its less likely imo. Any additional info?
This is not a preventative maintenance, I wouldn't recommend doing that, your lights already have UV protection. This is for restoring them when the protection runs out.
When you spray the clear it’ll look hazy, orange peel, wait some hours or the next day, i use 2000 grit sandpaper while heavily wet sanding, all this after the original steps, and then I buff the headlights with wax, always look good
@@DmitrysGaragenot at all it’s very hot, I’m guessing it’s because I just sprayed too much since at first it looked brand new and then when I said another spray, it went back to foggy
Yea that's pretty normal. They also released a headlight specific can recently, which is supposed to be even better. It may not be a free fix, but it's a nice one with long lasting results.
Easier said then done on certain cars man. Believe me. I have to take my grill off. And bolts out of my bumper, where as my friends gmc you can remove his headlights in under 30 seconds.
800 not available so i had to do 600 1000 and 2000. Not much improvement unfortunately. Could the yellowing be on the inside? Or am i wet sanding incorrectly? I sand for 1 to 2 minutes only per paper. Too quick? Paper not wet enough? Also i only used meguiar's headlight coating, not the one you used.
Like after sanding you still have the UV damage on the lenses? Is it getting all milky when you use the paper? It should be doing that. Make sure u soak the paper well and work the 600 grit until there is no more damaged surface before moving on to the other grits. Ive never seen damage in the inside. I suspect you’re not taking enough material off when sanding.
Was it very humid? Clear coat doesn't like humidity. May try polishing the clear coat to see if it will clear up, but might have to sand and re-spray somewhere dry if it was humid out.
Hey Dmitry, NEVER USE an automotive clear coat. Automotive clear coat is not made for polycarbonate surface. Always use a specific clear coat. Like Meguiars Headlight clear coat.Or, Spraymax 2K Special Headlight Clear
Spraymax for headlights, which is a new product (newer than this video maybe), is better. However, ive had great results this way too. I don’t like the megs, doesn’t last in my experience.
I believe the whole can has to be used the same day you open it. It has a hardener in it that you activate when you use it. They have a new headlight specific product that I want to check out.
@@keithroberts5611 no, you deal with the haze and craze on the "new" lights. I see dozens of pairs every day that have pathetic light output levels. The cars they are on should be put out of service, they are so unsafe.
Error usar lija tan fina basta con 800 el transparente necesita el grit de la lija para poder pegar mejor y mas en el frente que esta súper expuesto a las piedrecitas
It doesn't matter how many times you restore. This headlight is damaged because the UV rays already damaged the plastic and so it will continue to degrade and only last one year with each fixing. So you just have to change it for a new one and put UV protectant on it if you don't want this to keep happening every year because sanding and polishing is just a temporary fix
This video is over a year old and his headlights look just as good as when we did this. This isn't sanding and polishing, this is sanding and clear coating.
While that can happen, it is unusual. Almost always it is the outside that is damaged, although it is popular belief that it is the inside. I do hear it frequently, but have personally never seen it. Every car I've done this on was damaged on the outside.
I want everyone to know that using baking soda and dish soap works better. All that yellowing is stuck on dirt and you have to remove it all. Then use a polish or wax. Always use clean microfiber.
Wet sanding helps leave behind a finer smooth surface, especially with fine grits. In general unless you have a ton of material to remove (heavy defects) wet is better for this kind of work and I would finish wet regardless.
@@ericajohnson7535The headlight was already cloudy/hazy. This is a restoration. The clear lenses cloud over due to UV exposure and environmental damage over time. Most restoration products that remove yellowing and haze are temporary and the UV damaged plastic will yellow and cloud over again. Clear coat adds a layer of protection to slow the breakdown process. Look at plastic bumper covers and plastic fender flares, air dams, spoilers that are made of plastic and painted the same color of the vehicle. Those items are also clear coated not only for shine/luster but to protect them from the same damage that plastic headlights are prone to.
Are you scratching them while sanding or after you paint them? The lacquer (clear coat) does need to cure if its scratching after you finish. Are you using an automotive lacquer?
@@DmitrysGarage after sanding I apply the clear coat then I wait 24 hours , the clear coat I’m using is different brand but I think the one you are using more professional
@@verrynice4620 so the clear coat scratches later like when you wash the car? If so it’s probably too soft for the application. If its “cracking” as it cures and leaves scratch looking lines without you doing anything then its probably the application. Could be too cold for example
@@dmitrydovidenko5630 exactly it’s scratches later when you wash the car , I think it’s the clear coat that I’m using it’s not a good brand , I will try again with different brand
Yea so make sure the product you use has a hardener. The product i used has a hardener you activate by pushing a button on the bottom of the can. You have to use it within 24 hours when you activate it.
2000 is wayyyy too light of a grit for 2k clear coat, that will peel the minute it gets a rock chip Need to finish in 800 grit and do 4 coats and you won't have a Peeling problem
I went to my Home Depot and they have sand paper available in 800, 1000, or 2000 but the smallest package for each is $10 😂 wtf $30 for just some sand paper? Also I don’t need 10 sheets of each
While you can polish lenses, they will never look as clear and they will turn foggy again very fast without a UV protective clear coat. Ceramic coatings don’t provide any meaningful uv protection.
Clear coat wont keep them clear forever, just like how the factory finish doesn’t. It will last a whole lot longer with it. Clear coat is what provides uv protection for your paint too. If you want long lasting results a good *automotive* clear coat with a hardener additive (like the spray max 2k i used here) is the way to go. If you have the car long enough for the automotive clear to fail, you would just do the same process again. Just sand it off and re-spray.
@@actionmadeThe manufacturer uses clear coat, which you can buy and spray yourself, it’s not impossible to achieve rather people try to cheap out. A spray can like the one shown is good and will work for awhile, but using a spray gun with a more precise mixture for the environment would work better and longer. It’s all about Cost, this is a $25 - $40 solution vs a $200 - 400 solution if you had to buy your own spray gun, clear, activator, materials, air compressor, air hose, air/water filter, etc.
Have done similar process twice on my 2008 truck. Still working on original quantity of sand paper. Only need to buy clear coat each time. Has saved lots of money vs. buying new headlight housings each time.
@@DmitrysGarage after watching a lot of videos it seems the proper way is to sand the light starting at around 800grit working towards 3000grit. Then using a polishing paste with a sponge on a drill or polisher to buff out all the scratches probably. Then add something on after that. Otherwise you just stick a plaster on it and the problem comes back.
@@WhachadoonSo the clear coat is what provides a smooth and protective finish. You can buff the clear coat after for an even finer finish. The sanding already removes the scratches and the clear coat fills the matte sanded surface and makes it clear. What will you put on a buffed surface instead of clear coat to protect it?
@@Whachadoonnah they are doing it the wrong way In reality you should stop with 1200 and then clear you can polish the clear after but unless they are using clear it will just fade again
@@ucrazy2rc460 If you don't lacquer the lights sure, if you do it will last for years. Is it as good as a replacement? No, but on some cars replacements are unaffordable, like my 19 year old brother isn't going to be buying new HID acura headlights. They're upwards of $1,000 for new OEM.
I've done multiple cars this way and haven't had a single come back. I've had the same vehicle come in for brakes 3 years later and the headlights still look great.
Is it possible the yellowing/blurring is on the inside which means sanding the outside would be useless?
I've never seen it on the inside, it's always on the outside when I do this.
I've also never seen the yellowing on the inside. It can take quite a bit of sanding to get through the oxidation to clear plastic.
@@DmitrysGarage Can I apply Night Shades spray paint over the Spray Max?
@@adairjones11 No idea, sorry.
This works for sure and lasts way longer if you have a garage just don’t over coat . These look great
That 2K clearcoat works amazing on spray touch-ups as well. Great video, thanks.
I purchased a headlight restoration kit from Walmart today made by Rain-X. The kit comes with 3 grits of sandpaper, a wheel you attach to your drill, some fine compound and some clear coat sealer with a UV protectant. All that for under $22. Did an absolutely phenomenal job. Took probably 30 minutes all told and the lenses came out looking like new.
(Not dissing your method- just saying there’s a quality kit out there for not a lot of $ and a lot less elbow grease.)
Those kits absolutely work, it’s just that typically they only last months to a year if the car is daily driven and especially parked outside. Granted for $22 you can do it every year and it is a viable option for sure.
Those kits work great. I’ve personally used the 3M kits. But the best solution is to go with an automotive clear coat as the restoration kit removes the UV protectant layer. You’ll have to keep adding UV Protestant wax on the headlights every month or so to prevent yellowing again.
That kit does work great. All the kits on the market do the job. The issue is, you need to restore the UV finish, otherwise, you will be back to square one again. That's where the clear coat comes into play.
The key is to get a clear coat that doesn't yellow and has built in UV protection. There are brands that are specifically for headlights. Krylon has a suitable clear coat that is affordable.
@@DmitrysGarageYou’re absolutely right! These restore kits make the headlights look good for a small period of time, but end up causing far more damage in the long run. This method is best by far
This works! Been doing it this way for 7 years now.
You're definitely right bud! The best way to do it is to hit them with clear for sure!
Gonna try this out! I used a headlight restoration kit and it messed my headlights up even more than before. Picked up one of my friends the other day and her husband was doing his headlights and looked at mine and took a Brillo pad to them 😳 and sprayed some crap on them. Now they’re super scratched and still foggy. Hopefully this method will put them back to looking good again. Really don’t want to purchase new headlights for my mustang.
From my experience 800 grit by hand will not be enough to remove heavy oxidation/yellowing, or will take a LOT of manual sanding. The 3M heavy duty kit includes 500 grit to be used with drill attachment, I'd start there.
that spraymax clear is the best you can get out of a can, but you shouldnt sand any finer than 1200 to give the clearcoat proper adhesion. It will end up flaking off after a while. Clear wants to fall into a 600-1000 grit scratch ideally.
Will the 1200 make the heaslights clear though?
@lizrain2210 all.ya doing is removing micro layers . So as long as theure rubbed down well be fine got to do mime very soon 😊
Not sure how it will not hold after 2000 grit if properly clean and free of oils or waxes, and let cure properly for a week before adding anything or even getting wet.
I just used 3 cans of that exact clear coat a couple weeks ago. It wastes alot due to the insane wide pattern that does nothing but create overspray. If it had a decent spray pattern and didn't waste so much I could've got by with 1.5 cans at most. And that was me repainting a hood. The slicker the base is the better the clear is gonna look. It will adhere just fine because that's completely normal to use 2k grit before a clear if you want a mirror finish. The end result always depends on the quality your prep work. The cans of clear are 30$ each, so it's not a cheap clear
Can I use 2x clear coat?
Great job! I Have a 2006 mdx and i will try this fosho!! THANX 4 THE VIDEO!!
Doing my 3rd set, using lessons learned from owning a lot of cars over the past 50 years. Really bad headlights with pitting, start with 600 grit. Not so bad, start at 1200/1500. I do 1500, 2000, 2500 & 3000. Be sure to remove all the original clear coat. Then buff with buffing compound until they're clear. Then clean & clear coat. But try to keep the clear coat thin.
When you buy a new car, don't wax the headlights. Never touch heaslights with a buffer. It will remove the protective coating. Be careful when buffing your hood not to hit them. Clean them gently with a sponge or microfiber only. No bug & tar remover. They will last 10-15 years if you leave them alone. Won't last 8 years if you mess with them.
are you talking about the clear coating? or 2k clear? 2k clear wont stick to 3000 grit and buffed surface.
Haha, wrong. Apply wax to headlights at least monthly. Wax fills in the pores, doesnt remove material.
How do you put the sand in a back-and-forth motion instead of a brown motion to avoid swirling?
Look great but I did heard once that you should never spray your headlights a it could distort the light. Wipe on ceramic worked well for me in the past😉
It really doesn’t distort. Ceramic coatings don’t really block uv so they won’t offer as long lasting protection as clear coat.
Hey I will be doing this on my Camaro tomorrow and just had a few questions. Why not use only 2000 grit sand paper? How long should I sand each side for with each sand paper? Also how long does this need to heal before I can start washing my car normally? Thank you!
You want the other grits to cut quickly and get bigger defects out. You work each grit until the surface feels uniformly smooth for that level of grit. 2000 will provide the smoothest finish at the end. Once the paint is cured you can start washing your car. I'd give it at least 48 hours to cure before washing, but depends on environmental conditions and how thick you spray.
I’m wondering if this works for the hard plastic on boat canvases… Not the soft stuff you can roll the stuff that’s used on windshields
Do I need to add a UV protecting spray after all these steps?
The clear coat is the UV protection, but you should apply a wax/sealant/coating as you normally would to help protect the clear coat from oxidation and marring.
Good job my guy that’s exactly what I do fu*k buffing and the shit they sell don’t last clear coat lasts years and years
Yep, everyone wants to buff because it's a quick fix. It's ok on like a show car or garage queen, but other than that UV is going to reclaim it back very fast without a protective layer of clear.
Do you recommend any other clear costs that aren’t a one-time use? This is great, but I have do about 9 headlights a week and cant buy a can for very car. After a few hours, the can goes bad.
The benefit of this clear coat is that it has an activator/hardener in it. So this is why it works well and also goes bad, it's effectively real automotive clear coat. The only other recommendation I could make is to mix your own and spray professionally. This way you're making batches big enough for the job. May not be practical if you're doing mobile detailing though since you'll need a decent size air compressor tank. You can try other clear coats that don't use an activator/hardener, but I find they're very soft and susceptible to scratches while washing.
use 2k clear coat, you can buy them at almost any automotive paint store or even parts stores, you’ll need a spray gun with a tip size for clear and an air compressor, since you’re not spraying cars you can use a decent sized compressor so you can spray at least one light continuously
Try kbs diamond coat. I haven't tried it yet but you can roll it on or brush it etc... it has a self leveler in it. I'll be trying it this weekend with an adhesion promoter because I'm going to buff them out after sanding because I want a true restoration.
I didn't like it for headlights it did not level at all. Now the kbs would work great for other projects... but I am going to try one more way with the kbs on headlights.... and that is thinning it out with xylene because this clear is so thick.
What would cause a cracking effect after spraying the clear.Its not actually cracks but looks like cracks or spiderwebbed looking cracks all over??
too wet, sprayed second coat too soon, not enough time for first coat to flash.
I waited the appropriate time before coating.Guess I should wait longer next time.
You're not supposed to use clear coat past 800 grit sand paper. And I personally wouldn't use that clear at all. Just buy Meguiars headlight Restoration spray. It's made for headlights. Amazon has it.
What clear coat should I use?
I'm about to do this for my car and was wondering, what does wetting the sandpaper do?
Wet sanding makes a smoother finish and reduces dusting and heat.
@@DmitrysGarage aah ok! Thanks. It helps knowing why I’m doing these steps
Do you have a video on mixing your own clear coat and activator?
I saw a video where you can take WD-40 and wipe that on there with a rag, and it will come off, going to try that today
@@familyman8439did it work
That 2k clearcoat is made for paint and not plastic the 2part chemicals does not get along with polycarbonate. use the Meguires clear coat for headlights
Most headlights are polycarbonate not polypropylene these days. The 2K clear works fine on lenses, they even have a headlight specific 2k clear now (since making this video).
@@DmitrysGarage Yes i know that you are correct I started spelling it and saw it after i posted it. That is what happens when i try to post a comment on my phone thanks i fixed it.
What about using ceramic coating? What’s your thought on that
It wont protect from UV like a clear coat. It will help a little with oxidation, but it wont really protect the lenses.
my headlights still feel rough and look like the factory clearcoat is still peeling after doing this. They are slighter brighter and clearer however. Should I have sanded more until I felt that the headlight was completely smooth? Would going from 800 grit to 1500 to 2000 to 3000 achieve a really smooth surface? Could I just repeat all the steps or would that mess with the ceramic coat?
Is it okay if i do a spot area to make sure it's going to work on my 2007 that's been exposed to the sun for years?
Hey Dmitry! SprayMAX now has a specific aerosol product that's better for poly-carbonate headlights than their 2k Glamour for paint. The new product (SprayMax SMT 3684068, 2K 2 in 1 Headlight Clear) has an adhesion promoter in it that more suitable for polycarb and the 2k clear cures to a lesser hardness that should allow it to take rock/sandblasts without chipping (I can feel a bit more give to it with my fingernail compared to the 2k glamour). The big reason I think people should switch is some people were putting on WAY too heavy of a first coat of the 2k glamour on the raw polycarbonate and it would cause massive crazing in the plastic due to the VOCs in paint not being suitable for polycarbonate. (A light/tack coat given proper flash time followed by a medium wet coat prevents this). The adhesion promoter in the new product prevents this and should also in theory give it a much stronger bond to the plastic than the 2k clear without any adpro. The new product also claims to contain uv inhibitor solid content that is so critical to keeping the polycarb from rapidly yellowing to UV rays in a few months. Here's a video idea for you - I was thinking it would be great if you could compare the UV blocking properties of the various aerosol 2k products for both clearcoats, paint, and headlight "protection/sealant" films. SprayMAX 2k glamour/matte/etc vs Car-Rep aka Eastman WISE2k clears/ 2k paints vs 1K clears vs headlight protection films that come with headlight kits like Meguiar's Headlight Coating etc. I think the rapid aging UV test of each would be VERY interesting. Also would be very interesting is comparing it when it used with a Clearcoat Blending agent to blend spot repairs into existing factory clearcoats - there's a debate saying that the blender transition disappears in a few years due to UV and ruins the seamless transition. Cheers!
Thanks for the great tip, havent seen the new product yet but it sounds pretty great. I do agree that heavy coats can cause crazing especially if the environmental conditions are bad. The video idea sounds pretty cool. Ill have to see how to best do that. Probably need some poly sheets in the UV weathering machine. I think its doable.
This is actually a discontinued product, Spraymax no longer carries it since it was so chemically similar to the 368 0061 cans. Adhesion promoter can etch the plastic a little too much and cause you to have to restart your project. I sell a lot of Spraymax products
@@johnsalvatore97 would meguiar’s headlight coating do the job just fine?
Hi @@johnsalvatore97 . Are you sure? Because the product is still widely available and featured on the spraymax website? It doesnt seem chemically similar at all to me. I have both. The headlight clear is much less hard than the glamour clear and the cans even have different potlifes. You can also destroy the polycarbonate headlight by putting on too heavy of a first coat of just the clear glamour on the freshly sanded surface - extreme crazing and cracking examples abound on youtube. Any adhesion promoter is supposed to be applied lightly whereas clearcoat typically is not so it possible to damage with either method but by following the instructions for the headlight one its less likely imo. Any additional info?
My cars about 1 year old and headlights are fine so maybe I can spray that clear coat now before it gets all cratches up.
This is not a preventative maintenance, I wouldn't recommend doing that, your lights already have UV protection. This is for restoring them when the protection runs out.
Put a graphene ceramic coating on them... Or you could get meguiars headlight coating and just spray it on like a clear coat.
Hello i just saw you video, can i just you a regular clear coat because we dont have 2k clear coat. Please get back to me
Clearcoat made them look more foggy. Buffed it with some polish and looks good as new.
Thats pretty odd. It shouldn’t make them look foggy. Was it maybe very humid or cold or anything?
@@DmitrysGarageorange peel happened
When you spray the clear it’ll look hazy, orange peel, wait some hours or the next day, i use 2000 grit sandpaper while heavily wet sanding, all this after the original steps, and then I buff the headlights with wax, always look good
What about cars with inside damage
it looked great at first it I sprayed a bit of more clear coat and it went back to foggy, do I have to reset the whole process again?
It may have set poorly. Is it very humid where you are?
@@DmitrysGaragenot at all it’s very hot, I’m guessing it’s because I just sprayed too much since at first it looked brand new and then when I said another spray, it went back to foggy
This stuff is like $24-25 a can on Amazon 😩 is that standard price? Best place to get this?
Yea that's pretty normal. They also released a headlight specific can recently, which is supposed to be even better. It may not be a free fix, but it's a nice one with long lasting results.
@@DmitrysGarage I agree, plus one can lasts multiple headlights. I ordered one yesterday
@@DmitrysGarage if it's automotive clear, could i theoretically use it to redo the clear on my trucks hard shell topper?
Ah ha momemt did the all the sand grits😂 Still look foggie and them your chanel came up thx!!! Got the clear coat on the way
How is it now? I s to lol got the same problem
I think I could have done better. Def like the results @@icebox829
Dude went a little crazy masking off the headlights…
He’s spraying clear coat so he doesn’t want to get it anywhere else on the car
He didn't. He's spraying an automotive 2k clear that you absolutely positively DO NOT want to get the overspray from on your paint or anywhere else.
@@modemockyea exactly 😂 like bro that clear coat isint gonna be even on the pannels around it lmfao
Do you want to fuck the paint up on your car?
@@Depl0rable10yeah exactly you’ve never sprayed paint before 😂
what if your headlights are foggy on the inside?
Great tutorial! only thing I would say is spray with a little more overlap.
Thanks! Excellent tip!
Can I use less grit sandpaper?
Take the lights out! Much better job with no risk of body damage.....
Easier said then done on certain cars man. Believe me. I have to take my grill off. And bolts out of my bumper, where as my friends gmc you can remove his headlights in under 30 seconds.
@@ronnydisalvo80All the more reason to own a truck or suv, space isn't only important inside the car.
@@FedSmoker64not everyone needs an suv or truck.
@@FugaConManolo Not everyone needs two kidneys, but it's nice to have.
@@FugaConManolohe's a typical AmeriKKKan.....
Can i use 1K clear coat?
Can I wet sand this clear coat that you used ??? I just sprayed and want to know please
Sure. It can absolutely be wet sanded and polished. Just depends on cure time. I believe manufacturer has more info on their site.
Thanks ❤
How long does it take for the clear to cure?
Also what polish do you recommend to buff the clear coat after
I think clear coat is last process as it’s the sealant and brings the new- like look, so don’t think you need buffing after.
Great video
Just did this to ky Kia Rio. Literally saved myself about 345 dollars. Buying new ones is so expensive.
Where is Link in description
800 not available so i had to do 600 1000 and 2000.
Not much improvement unfortunately. Could the yellowing be on the inside?
Or am i wet sanding incorrectly? I sand for 1 to 2 minutes only per paper. Too quick?
Paper not wet enough?
Also i only used meguiar's headlight coating, not the one you used.
Like after sanding you still have the UV damage on the lenses? Is it getting all milky when you use the paper? It should be doing that. Make sure u soak the paper well and work the 600 grit until there is no more damaged surface before moving on to the other grits. Ive never seen damage in the inside. I suspect you’re not taking enough material off when sanding.
@@DmitrysGarage will try again. will let you know.
This stuff is SUPER toxic btw. Should wear a respirator and skin/eye protection even for a quick job like this.
💯
Its wet sanding
Should you polish it after clear coat?
You think I can do 2 cars with the clear coat?
If you did them at the same time. These cans have to be used within 24 hours of first use.
Used the same 2k and it looks hazy. Any suggestions.
Was it very humid? Clear coat doesn't like humidity. May try polishing the clear coat to see if it will clear up, but might have to sand and re-spray somewhere dry if it was humid out.
You need to do more wet sanding and ensure the covers are completely dry before applying any clear.
Hey Dmitry, NEVER USE an automotive clear coat. Automotive clear coat is not made for polycarbonate surface. Always use a specific clear coat. Like Meguiars Headlight clear coat.Or, Spraymax 2K Special Headlight Clear
Spraymax for headlights, which is a new product (newer than this video maybe), is better. However, ive had great results this way too. I don’t like the megs, doesn’t last in my experience.
Why not polish till clear ?
Bc the clear will not stick to the Lens
Can you do this on the backlights as well?
Sure you can do the same sort of process.
Whats the shelf life on that can?
I believe the whole can has to be used the same day you open it. It has a hardener in it that you activate when you use it. They have a new headlight specific product that I want to check out.
I used off mosquito repellent and 0000 steel wool.
Remember when headlights were glass and you didn't have to do any of this BS?
Probably because glass is more expensive?
@@keithroberts5611 no, you deal with the haze and craze on the "new" lights. I see dozens of pairs every day that have pathetic light output levels. The cars they are on should be put out of service, they are so unsafe.
Capitalizing on plastic is much easier, that's why plastic is used. @kursor52
Error usar lija tan fina basta con 800 el transparente necesita el grit de la lija para poder pegar mejor y mas en el frente que esta súper expuesto a las piedrecitas
When do you take the masking off?
When its dry (doesn’t have to be cured) or wait til its cured.
It doesn't matter how many times you restore. This headlight is damaged because the UV rays already damaged the plastic and so it will continue to degrade and only last one year with each fixing. So you just have to change it for a new one and put UV protectant on it if you don't want this to keep happening every year because sanding and polishing is just a temporary fix
This video is over a year old and his headlights look just as good as when we did this. This isn't sanding and polishing, this is sanding and clear coating.
Is 600, 1000, 2000 fine?
After sanding do buffing for 15 min..and see the results
Emery cloth not sandpaper. Sandpaper will dissolve with water
Why not aceton vape it???
You should use soapy water
The inside of the lenses are what screws up not the outside
While that can happen, it is unusual. Almost always it is the outside that is damaged, although it is popular belief that it is the inside. I do hear it frequently, but have personally never seen it. Every car I've done this on was damaged on the outside.
Nope, have done this repair . All the crazing was on outside of lens.
Does anyone know if this will work on red plastic bumpers?
Yes.
I want everyone to know that using baking soda and dish soap works better. All that yellowing is stuck on dirt and you have to remove it all. Then use a polish or wax. Always use clean microfiber.
The yellowing isnt stuck on dirt. Baking soda is an abrasive so its the same as using sand paper, just less efficient.
I don’t think you covered enough of the car.
Where can I get headlight restore kit from Accra
Where can I get headlight restore get some
Don't bother just use cutting compound
So why wet vs dry sand?
Wet sanding helps leave behind a finer smooth surface, especially with fine grits. In general unless you have a ton of material to remove (heavy defects) wet is better for this kind of work and I would finish wet regardless.
You didnt do the criss pattern
First horizontal then vertical
when that clear coat wears off, what happens?
repeat the process~
Correct. Nothing is permanent
@@DmitrysGarage the headlight has been permanently made cloudy/matted.
@@ericajohnson7535The headlight was already cloudy/hazy. This is a restoration. The clear lenses cloud over due to UV exposure and environmental damage over time. Most restoration products that remove yellowing and haze are temporary and the UV damaged plastic will yellow and cloud over again. Clear coat adds a layer of protection to slow the breakdown process. Look at plastic bumper covers and plastic fender flares, air dams, spoilers that are made of plastic and painted the same color of the vehicle. Those items are also clear coated not only for shine/luster but to protect them from the same damage that plastic headlights are prone to.
@@scottp2462 and if they were not cloudy/hazy, and were brand-new? Then you permanently scratched them.
2K is EXTREMELY HARMFUL... wear heavy-duty PPE. Only in well ventilated areas or outside.
The problem I’m experiencing after the restoration that the headlights become very easy to scratch, am I doing something wrong?
Are you scratching them while sanding or after you paint them? The lacquer (clear coat) does need to cure if its scratching after you finish. Are you using an automotive lacquer?
@@DmitrysGarage after sanding I apply the clear coat then I wait 24 hours , the clear coat I’m using is different brand but I think the one you are using more professional
@@verrynice4620 so the clear coat scratches later like when you wash the car? If so it’s probably too soft for the application. If its “cracking” as it cures and leaves scratch looking lines without you doing anything then its probably the application. Could be too cold for example
@@dmitrydovidenko5630 exactly it’s scratches later when you wash the car , I think it’s the clear coat that I’m using it’s not a good brand , I will try again with different brand
Yea so make sure the product you use has a hardener. The product i used has a hardener you activate by pushing a button on the bottom of the can. You have to use it within 24 hours when you activate it.
I would have just remove , uninstall the head lamp fixture, instead of masking off the headlamp..save some time and cleanup😮
or a torch in about amenity or time
There will be a glare affect
The finish will turn yellow and you have to repeat process.....
How does it last before turning yellow?
2k not for headlights
I just use toothpaste. 20 minutes or so every couple of years. Works perfectly
2000 is wayyyy too light of a grit for 2k clear coat, that will peel the minute it gets a rock chip
Need to finish in 800 grit and do 4 coats and you won't have a Peeling problem
Just use vapor restoration done in 1min
I went to my Home Depot and they have sand paper available in 800, 1000, or 2000 but the smallest package for each is $10 😂 wtf $30 for just some sand paper? Also I don’t need 10 sheets of each
There are variety packs online. I think the video links to one.
Variety pack online I got 400-2500 each on sponge blocks for $16
The walmart has them
If you use a heat gun on the headlights, they'll be clear again.
Why are mine getting cloudy and not clear??
Theyll get cloudy while you sand, the clear coat will turn them clear. Make sure you spray a nice wet coat (but not runny wet).
Don't use clear coat after, just polish with a compound and machine then if you want, apply a quick ceramic coat to them
While you can polish lenses, they will never look as clear and they will turn foggy again very fast without a UV protective clear coat. Ceramic coatings don’t provide any meaningful uv protection.
Clear coat wont keep them clear forever, just like how the factory finish doesn’t. It will last a whole lot longer with it. Clear coat is what provides uv protection for your paint too. If you want long lasting results a good *automotive* clear coat with a hardener additive (like the spray max 2k i used here) is the way to go. If you have the car long enough for the automotive clear to fail, you would just do the same process again. Just sand it off and re-spray.
@@actionmadeThe manufacturer uses clear coat, which you can buy and spray yourself, it’s not impossible to achieve rather people try to cheap out. A spray can like the one shown is good and will work for awhile, but using a spray gun with a more precise mixture for the environment would work better and longer. It’s all about Cost, this is a $25 - $40 solution vs a $200 - 400 solution if you had to buy your own spray gun, clear, activator, materials, air compressor, air hose, air/water filter, etc.
Before you began clean and wash you're headlights and than you begin the process
Yes you should clean and wash. Im new to short format clips. Learning how to fit all the info in :)
Where's the orange and baking soda?? 😅😅
All you need is 1700 sand paper
👍
This is just a temp fix best thing to do is replace the housing itself!
It’s a much less temporary fix than other options, it can last for many years. To be fair even new lenses will again fail over time.
@@DmitrysGarage everything fails over time but new ones lasts longer
Have done similar process twice on my 2008 truck. Still working on original quantity of sand paper. Only need to buy clear coat each time. Has saved lots of money vs. buying new headlight housings each time.
@@ralphjones6165 I did it too twice like every 3-4 months got tired of it bought new lights that should last me a few years.. 🤙
You only need to go to 800 grit then hit it w the xlear
There's only one problem bro your headlights are not yellow.
Will still work unless the lenses have yellowed all the way through, then you need new lenses.
Keeping auto indoors away from sun light.
Why not just polish it after the 2000 grit. Proper job then
Clear coat needs to go on a sanded surface. If you dont clear coat it then it will rapidly yellow again outdoors.
@@DmitrysGarage after watching a lot of videos it seems the proper way is to sand the light starting at around 800grit working towards 3000grit. Then using a polishing paste with a sponge on a drill or polisher to buff out all the scratches probably. Then add something on after that. Otherwise you just stick a plaster on it and the problem comes back.
@@WhachadoonSo the clear coat is what provides a smooth and protective finish. You can buff the clear coat after for an even finer finish. The sanding already removes the scratches and the clear coat fills the matte sanded surface and makes it clear. What will you put on a buffed surface instead of clear coat to protect it?
@@Whachadoonnah they are doing it the wrong way In reality you should stop with 1200 and then clear you can polish the clear after but unless they are using clear it will just fade again
How to do it the wrong way 😂
The right way is to replace the lights
Restore != replace.
@@DmitrysGarage it's a short-term fix
@@ucrazy2rc460 If you don't lacquer the lights sure, if you do it will last for years. Is it as good as a replacement? No, but on some cars replacements are unaffordable, like my 19 year old brother isn't going to be buying new HID acura headlights. They're upwards of $1,000 for new OEM.
@@DmitrysGarage true replacement lights are expensive
The right way is just to replace the whole car
Ceramic coating is better than clear
That is 1,000% false.
If you can.. save yourself the masking remove the lights
Autosol..beats the lot without flagging about