All the restorations mentioned in this feed work to a degree, but not a permanent solution. I wish someone would force auto makers to go back to GLASS headlights as plastic doesn't hold up to UV destruction. After all, headlights are as much a safety feature as seat belts and air bags. They should be legislated to make them last the life of the car. Cutting costs in place of people's safety is just wrong. Anyway, that's my two cents.
My daughters SAAB Has GLASS covers over her headlamps .... I have NEVER seen them Fog up Plastic /acrylic is CHEAPER to mold and produce , hence WHY Auto makers use Acrylic Plastic
@@Wilett614 yeah they are actually. Polycarbonate is 250 times stronger than glass and about 25 times stronger than acrylic. polycarbonate diffuses uva and uvb light, polycarbonate is a much better insulator than glass and is also more clear than glass. Theres not 1 thing glass is better than polycarbonate at lol.
@@Mp-jw1qg Glass headlamp covers have been around and SUCESSFUL for 100+ Years ... They NEVER failed or became Fogged ... I get, that change is due But there is NOTHING wrong with molded Tempered Glass my friend .
The foggy appearance is the failing anti UV coating applied by the manufacture, not dirt. It needs removing properly, preferably with sandpaper, and then polishing with proper compound. Using toothpaste isn’t sufficient and the fogging will appear fairly quickly again. Once you’ve sanded and polished you need to seal it, preferably with a clear coat to prevent the UV degradation
@@bendude6748 a UV protecting clear coat will keep the headlights looking new for as long as possible. Leaving it to compound and polish, will cause it to get cloudy even faster and you’re back at square one all over again within a few months because the polycarbonate lenses are highly susceptible to degrading from extended exposure to sunlight and causes them to become very fragile. Sanding, clearing, then polishing will make the headlights look as good as a brand new set that will look good for at least 5 or 6 years with nothing more than simple washing.
I just went out and tried this. There was a significant improvement. I then went to EBAY and ordered a pair of replacement lenses. $21.00 for 2006 Mustang. I enjoyed the video and the area around my left headlight is very clean now.
Why would you use a small toothbrush when you could use a plastic bristle dish scrubber? I mean how long do you want to be there? Scrubbing with a toothbrush is a punishment used in the military.
She used a small brush because she's patient and meticulous. These are two very admirable personality traits. Using such a method is only a punishment for the impatient and short attention span.
I'm a auto tech and have cleaned 100's of headlights, toothpaste works because of the fine grit in it, I use a light auto rubbing compound and a buffer, works the best and only takes about 2 mins to do
@@rawhiderandy You are correct you can't stop it, however if you do it with the proper way, you it will last for a couple of years instead of for 4-6 months. I have been doing it for over 20 years i used to clean them but now i restore them and have actually had them last for 4 years and some are still clear, it depends on if people clean them and do a wash regularly or if they put no effort into cleaning them at all. Doing a proper restoration is much better than a toothpaste cleaning, think about it, if you only brush your teeth every 4-6 months and then brush them again, they will not be white in 2 minutes, then you go to the dentist and have them cleaned, they will be white and stay that was with regular maintenance. toothpaste is for teeth not headlights. Spending 30-40 minutes doing it the right was the headlights will stay clean using products designed for polycarbonate headlights.
The headlight is still wett and looks nice. But when it has dry it Will look like before... The only fix its sanding with waterpaper 800 - 1500 - 2500 - 3500. After that i will go with polish and a headlight sealant 👍
The headlight sealant is overlooked 95% of the time, and without it, the freshly regenerated lenses turn foggy or yellow again very quickly. I theorize 🧐 that it’s because even though the lenses have turned foggy, the fixture still left the factory with sealant on the lenses. So the factory sealant was slowing the fogging process… but then I just sanded it off when polishing the lens. 🙁 I did it wrong once and the headlights looked amazing for about 2-3 weeks, then they yellowed even worse than they were before. I forgot to put the sealant on 😕 P.S. I have collected 4 of the Meguiar’s kits, and only one came with sealant.
Indeed, like a glaze on paint. A temporary solution. This video makes me think about the "drill a hole in your iphone". I'm waiting for the complaints 😃.
Use a UV Resistant clear coat on the lens after cleaning it. You can get it in a spray can at any Home Depot. This will keep the lens from fogging up again for about 3-5 years or so.
Spray can is to thick. If you really compare to a better clear the refraction from spray is ridiculous. You can actually see the refraction tests on youtube
Fine grit rubbing compound .also I used to work at a industrial plastic company. I remember machinists using corn starch on final polishing of clear plastics.
Don't last I've had mine done numerous times until a friend told me about Deep Wood Off spray on wipe off when dry spray with a UV clearcoat to seal it.
This is a smart content creator. She makes a video on a common problem, provides a sub optimal solution and then harvests all of the comments of the internet experts who just couldn't resist the opportunity to demonstrate their knowledge.
@@brendonwilliams4050 So you maybe mean they benefit from them. Of course they do! And some so greedy too fast and wrong headings used. Harvest is to gather.
You are right. And notice the toothpaste swirls when she finishes and then cuts to the bucket of water. When she comes back to the lens, the swirls are different! 🤨🤔
I agree with Kevin. The auto companies should go back to glass or develop a better headlight lens. after all, being in the front of the vehicle it takes a lot of weather and sand blasting along with the sun UV. I have a Volvo XC90 that's been exposed to the Texas sand storms and extreme sun. I had to wet sand the headlights every year until the sun exposure ruined the inside of lens and I had to purchase new headlights last year...
If you did some research before hand you would have come across a product call'ed headlight clear film maximum protection UV, It's a DIY job it's fiddly process but when you consider it will last 10 times longer than any Clear coat with UV protection well worth the effort in my opinion!!!🤔🇬🇧👍
I tried that years ago I ended up wet sanding 400 up to 3000 grit sand paper and spray cleaner coat spray paint after it's dry and cured put some car wax it to protect the clear coat. Option 2 just buy new headlight assemblies and buy in pairs
There's plenty of new factory OEM would be your highest then after market would be your mid price lowest would be a junk yard. Next year I'll have to get a set for my tracker
Only problem with buying new headlight assembly, for me at least. Each assembly was in excess of $600.00. $1,200 00 for both headlights. My mechanic told me to go to Walmart, or anywhere insect repellents are sold and buy a can of Johnson ,& Johnson Deep woods Off. I have tried other insect repellent. Deep woods Off is the best. Wash your headlights and get all the dirt off you can. While the light is still wet spray the repellent directly on the headlights do one at a time. Leave it on a minute or two and use a Mr clean magic eraser sheet dampened with water. They work great and take only a few minutes. Come in a pack of 8. 5.8 x 3.5. Keep this handy, and when you wash your car or truck go over them . Only takes a minute. Quick tip: anything cleans better if it's wet first. Wouldn't sand. Scratches light surface. Sure beats $1,200 for new lighting harness which was the only way I could replace my headlights.
A technique I found that works well is using baking soda and vinegar. A relative of mine owns an older Subaru with about 170 thousand miles on the odometer. The lights were extremely fogged and nearly useless for night driving. Mixed the two and while the fuzzing reaction was going on I rubbed it into the plastic using a microfiber towel. The result was much better than I expected. I would guess that around 90% of the original transparency was regained. Obviously this is only a short term solution but the components are cheap and readily available. Altogether working on both headlights took only about 5 to 10 minutes. So it's an easy solution whenever you might be washing your vehicle.
To those looking for a way to restore your headlights, just realize that each headlight fogs, yellows, and fades for different reasons and not one solution will work for every situation. In some cases a gritty toothpaste might work, in others you may be able to use automotive compound or polish, and in extreme cases you may have to do multiple sandings with multiple grits of sandpaper and follow it up with compounding, polish, and/or wax. And then you still will need to follow up with some kind of protectant, wax, or even UV film, otherwise the light will just yellow and/or fog again later. Watch lots of videos and look for videos that show headlights that look like yours. Even then you may have to try several different solutions or just pay to have them professionally done.
If you're brave, you can use Acetone. It will briefly melt the oxidation off. But it's, "ONE SWIPE! IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY!!!" Don't rub or scrub it or it will smear the softened plastic resin. Practice on an old car. 'It worked on my Ford focus.'
I've tried this before, it works, okay. Best thing I've found is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and baking soda. Put it on like wax rubbing hard for a minute or 2, let it sit for about 1 min then rinse. Will seriously make your headlight look brand new. I suggest using a headlight protectant afterwards to keep it looking new 2 or 3 times a year.
This does not solve the problem, because it will go back to being foggy within a day. The reason why headlights get cloudy, is the outermost layer of coating has failed and is cracking. You need to wet sand with 600-800 grit sand paper until the coating is gone, and then continue stepping up to finer grit sandpaper until about 3000-5000 grit. Then you spray on a fresh coat of UV protecting clearcoat, let sit for 15 minutes, spray another coat, wait another 15, spray a 3rd coat and let it cure for a week. The wet sand with 1500 grit, working your way back to 3000-5000 grit, then use compound on a random-orbital polish machine, then use an actual polishing product and you have perfectly restored headlights. The actual labor should only take about 1 hr at most for the wet sanding per headlight. Or if that is too much effort - buy a new set of Factory headlights - none of that Chinesium crap hocked on eBay that has worse light output than stock. Using toothpaste, oils, solvents and such - doesn’t actually do anything than being a very temporary bandaid that requires constant reapplication. Actual physical/mechanical abrasion to remove the failed coating, or replacement is the only way.
Wow! Never thought this could be done w out sanding paper. I also think clear coating ur headlights might make it last longer, to prevent this type of degradation. Just my 2 cents. Thank u for sharing! ❤
What, take me back to the 1960s?? EXACTLY!! We used to have glass headlights, they were owner replaceable, and didn't cost over $10 to replace. But today, you need a mechanic to replace plastic headlights, that only cost $500.00 apiece. Now there's some REAL progress...😳😢😡 Here's my Christmas present to the automakers. Watch closely.....🌲😤
Simple reason, is Because a Plastic lens. SAVES WEIGHT On the Lamp assy, COMPARED To glass. And All parts of the car Are Now In plastic. Which SAVES WEIGHT On the car. In turn SAVES £££££ @ THE Petrol Station.
As an aviation guy who has used MicroMesh to “repair” plastic aircraft canopies many times. I can say with confidence this would only work with a very specific degree of fogging, that is light. The amount of time required for a complete repair on most headlights using toothpaste would not be practical with a machine and definitely astronomical by hand. Normal procedure is to start with a coarse grit to remove pitting and progressively finer grits to remove the scratches from the previous grit. There are solvent products that can coat or reseal the surface for a longer lasting repair. If you look carefully at the finished example it is still wet which makes it look better, check the haze forming on the lower left of the headlight in the video to get an idea of what it low I’ll look like when completely dry. This can help a lot in some cases but the video misrepresents what you can expect if there is yellowing and pitting.
I read elsewhere, after any type cleaning polishing treatment to spray them with non-yellowing clear coat paint. Said they won't fog up again! ... Well they said that ??
Seems there's a lot of ways to clean them. The key step is sealing them with anti UV clear coat when they are clean, so it lasts. They do go foggy again fast if not sealed, no matter what you use to clean them. The manufacturers coating on the lights wearing off is why they fog to begin with. You need to replace it on clean lights. I find the clear coat solutions in most kits inadequate, better off with a spray can of clear coat
This exactly. Also it is a LOT easier to fix the fogginess with a power drill and a kit than toothpaste and a toothbrush. The end result is also going to look nicer.
This is a great quick way to get results without buying any specialty kits. But you finally have to apply the protective coating cause UV rays will dull the finish again.
Meguiars headlight restoration kit works really well. There's three kits but I didn't bother with the first two. Follow the instructions and you will get great results. My car is 20 years old and I restored the headlights six months ago and they still look great. About $30 cdn.
I've done it thousands of times using wet/dry sandpaper on a drill pad, and polishing compound on a high speed buffer (former car detailer), can't imagine how much elbow grease it took to get to that point.
she faked it, thats why. if you have seen as many bad headlights as i have you can spot that she made them look that way. you can even see some residue on the bumper just below the light. also she kept the lens wet to help make it look better than it was.
Yep she sprayed Testors dullcoat or more likely hairspray on bright plastic. Then a haze of gray. That paint comes off fresh shiny plastic pretty easily. Hairspray comes off with an alcohol wipe..or wet toothpaste. Toothpaste won't fix a light that far gone. Mothers and a buffer will only clear it, but it'll still be dull as the UV paint is now gone. If doing Mothers, either repaint it with headlight clesrcyoat afterwards or plastic polish every two weeks. One or the other.
@@STho205 bingo! frauds for views : ) I am in the middle of a experiment right now, I polished both lights and put clear vinyl laminate, Avery Dennison on one, it is still perfect and the uncovered is starting to yellow.. probably way cheaper than PPF
Temporary fix...WD40 works just as well and takes a few seconds. The foggy lenses will return after the oil evaporates and you'll need to do it over again and again but for a temporary fix it works great. Bring back glass headlights!
I'm liking the comments over UV / Sun damage yet, no one has pointed out that buying cheap after-market lamps also cause discolouration and damage to plastics too from the inside out. Damage isn't always external with headlights.
How does this hold up long term. I've used many different methods but they all seem to take me right back to foggy within 2 or 3 weeks. Any recommendations for sealing the clean plastic after cleaning? Great video though...I like the concept. Thanks
Basically the advice in this video is pretty mediocre. The fogginess isn't caused by dirt. It's oxidation of the lens. Once clear you need to use a UV sealant to prevent rapid reoccurrence.
To make it a semi-permanent repair, once you get your polycarbonate lenses cut down to crystal clear material, simply apply a quality ceramic coating like CarPro Quartz or Dura-Slick ceramic coating. Ceramic coatings are wayyyy full of UV repellent and that is actually the root of the problem. Lasts for a couple years unless you do a surface prep after cutting and then use a quality 4K UV Repellent Clear Coat spray and you'll never worry about them again
@Homer Holler that the issue isn't caused by dirt, which is what is claimed. The outer surface of the lens oxidises with time causing it to become brittle leading to micro-cracks and cloudiness. When you use an abrasive it removes this outer layer which gets rid of the immediate issue however it removes any factory protection the lens has and so oxidation will reoccur in a much shorter period. Therefore the lens requires protection after the job is done, this is usual via a uv protectant.
UV clearcoat is the actual real "fix". Anything else is just a bandaid shortcut. The amount of time and money people invest in polishing and re-polishing after a few months is astonishing. Either do a proper sand/clearcoat job, or just buy new lights, they can be had cheaply, just a few bucks more than the better polishing kits. $50 for a good polshing kit, or $69 for 2 new headlights delivered? Your call I guess...
That’s BS. Glass lenses can be molded into any shape. Many automakers do use glass lenses the reason others don’t is because it’s cheaper. Cars today are just plastic pieces of junk.
I tried toothpaste and it only lasted a short time. Wal Mart's automotive bays where I buy tires cleaned and treated my headlights on my Sienna van for about $29. Best money I've ever spent. It's been over a year and they still look great. I literally could not see out of my car at night, it was dangerous. Try it. Other places may do it for you too.
My prices start at $35 and I use professional grade product. The store-bought kits Etc will last 18 to 24 months and will go back to the fading and yellowing.
Im going to have to try this! Cant beleive all the haters and negative comments, why watch it? Obviously, they are looking for a cheap temporary fix??!!!
i like how you found the smallest brush possible to scrub the headlight lol. Your can definitely safe some elbow grease by using a bigger brush. I use a drill attachment brush that is soft for scrubbing upholstery from the janitorial supply store. It won't scratch the plastic and it does the work for you.
Instead of wasting tooth paste, wheel polish works great. Also after getting it clean to maintain this for over a year it's best to coat it with ceramic coating/wax.
Congrats on teaching your viewers the most overcomplicated way to slightly improve their headlight. For the lazy people a microfiber towel and some metal polish or compound will do a much better job for less money and time. True headlight restoration requires sanding and clear coating the lens otherwise your headlight will be yellow again in a few weeks.
Also I contest with you're last part of the comment. Some people have mild foggy headlights and sometimes they dont really need to sand them but that's only to some vehicles. I know I have a fusion and my driver side headlights fogged out and my passengers is clear. Sometimes the side of the car that's closes to on coming vehicles will be slightly foggier then the othetside.
@@covidisalie2139 Mild foggy is the beginning visuals of oxidation and the breakdown of the UV protection. Sand and apply UV protecting clearcoat for proper repair.
It takes about 5 minutes per grit to wet sand headlights half way through the second sanding you begin to see the results. McGuires sells a scratch fix to finish it off. I have a Murano, the front bumper and grill need to be removed to take out the headlights.
All you did was remove the oxidized plastic with the abrasive toothpaste (similar to any abrasive polish). 4 months later (depending on how much you drive the car), it will look like garbage again. Unless after the headlight is polished to clear that a polymeric coating/hardener is applied to protect the newly revealed plastic surface, your results will not last and you are back to wasting more toothpaste.
@@CleanFreakGermaphobe Buy a simple kit from McGuire's with the polish and coating spray at any auto store and you wouldn't touch you headlights again for at least 2 years. That saves a helluva lot of work over time. My time is well worth the additional cost to do it once correctly rather than the same amount of time repeatedly. It is the engineering adage at work: 1) Fast, 2) Cheap, 3) Working correctly; you only ever get two out of three. Your way is fast and cheap but sorry, it just isn't the correct way to maintain your headlights.
no, just no... Do things the right way. 600 grit, 1200 grit, 2000 grit, 2500grit then compound and polish. Lasts longer, more effective, much better results. keep the toothpaste in your bathroom cabinet and nowhere near a car... it would have been called carpaste in that case
So I tried this on my mom's car and it worked pretty well, it didn't get all the fog cause there may be some inside the lights but I got alot of it off and they look alot better in my opinion. I give this hack a A+
A lot of people don't realize but toothpaste is a polish. Meaning it has a bunch of tiny "rocks" essentially. What you're doing is you're actually slowly wearing down your enamel in order to polish them to a "shine" which is what we call "white" teeth.
Which is why nobody should ever use whitening toothpaste, after years of use you will wear the enamel away, which is the only thing protecting your teeth, then you’ll have decay start, and then tooth loss. Stick to a normal non whitening fluoride toothpaste, brush properly twice a day, then you won’t even have stained or yellow teeth, so you won’t ever need them whitening in the first place!
The only thing I would add after cleaning would be a sealant (or at least wax) to help prevent oxidation. These will have to be reapplied occasionally and after any further abrasive cleaning.
No matter what "fix" you try to do will only be temporary. The outer layer pf plastic is degrading and trying to flake off. Nothing will stop that from happening.
Seems like regular suntan lotion spf 30 that we use on our body would work on headlights since it is uv rays that cause discoloration. Suntan lotion is cheap. What do you think?
Incredible fantastic advice ! (sarcasm) People from my town and not only was doing it like 25 years ago, every one know this methond - we was calling it "village polishing" Can belive so that primitive methods are still on use. Better is to buy any cheep polishing paste and some selant for head lamps. For about 50 EUR possible to buy both and use it once a year to keep lamps shiny. That 50 EUR for 2-3 years its not some big expensive deal.
I'm not going to say this is a click bait video but in the real world of headlight restoration the only color you see on headlights that are oxidized like this are clear coats. With clear coats that have gone bad there is no way tooth paste or even metal polish will remove that. I have no idea what that was on that headlight before the tooth paste was applied but I don't think that was plastic oxidation which is normally yellowish. I've service clients headlights and have done so for six years. I've seen the toothpaste attempts that always failed because there's more you have to put into scrubbing with that stuff than people think and that's if it's not a clear coat issue which is frosty white or flaking from the headlights. If you have a small haze of oxidation on your headlights the tooth paste might help a little, but it'll be quicker and faster to just get rubbing compound or metal polish. That scrubbing away oxidation with a toothbrush is hilarious. And oh yeah, if you don't replace the UV coating, the headlight will oxidize again after about a month or two.
Some how it looks like ice but not sure how on just the headlight. but you can clearly see the water melting when she is showing the toothpaste on the finger tips. At 1:29 look under the back of her hand at the headlight.
I also been doing headlights for about twenty years. This is no way anything more than light oxidation. Toyota and Honda headlamps are easiest. Gm and Ford are the crappiest clear coat available. Most Toyota and Honda lights i do only require mild work and not total sanding thru like domestics.
Right, there was somesort of coating on that headlight lens that was not oxidation. It was too thick and lumpy. Gritty toothpaste would need a whole lot more vigorous work and would not work that well.
the proper way is wet sand paper either by hand or by machine, then polish it out to clear, then ceramic coating on top or another sort of uv protectant such as clear coat
My car is 20 years old so has very foggy headlights. All I do to make them clear again is clean off the dirt then rub in a bit of olive oil and buff off the excess. I’m sure any oil would work. I do this 3-4 times a year and it works alright.
The headlamps may begin to become foggy within a few months unless you carefully apply 2 or 3 coats of automotive clearcoat. Once that's done, you should be good for a few years. Trust me, I've done this...both with and without the clearcoat. Difference is dramatic. I use the headlight restore kit from Advance Auto. Toothpaste won't always do a very good job on really dulled headlamps.
Thank tou for sharing I have been always using Mother's polish from automotive stores & it works. Now that I have watched your video I them will give it a try. What I really liked about your video is there is no buffing necessary again thank you.
This is true. It won't last very long at all. There's a GREAT Meguires kit that's only 19 bucks. You do need a drill but the process restored 2 of my cars, one mild and one that was really bad. I still have enough to do another.
Clear coat is fine, but not everybody knows how to apply it. So the best thing for the normal person would be is to apply a wax coat every couple months to protect.
toothpaste has titanium disulfate (chemical used to etch cement TSD) and zinc phosphates which react with the Acrylis resin only to make it worse. Sand with 100-1800 grit paper until smooth and clear coal at least 2-3 coats.
Want to do the same thing with a lot less work? Spray on Deep Woods Off, the bug spray. Spray on, wipe off, rinse. A coat of car wax after you're done helps seal the lens.
As a final step what I usually do is take some clear coat paint and a spray can mask off the headlight and spray over it just for one maybe two coats and this will keep the headlight cleaner for a longer. What causes it to Haze over like this is the UV rays from the Sun beating down on the headlight and all the debris from the road doesn't help.
ALWAYS make it a habit NOT to subscribe to any UA-cam channel that begs for a thumbs up, or to subscribe, right at the beginning of a video. NEVER EVER.
Guys dont do this. You will spend all this time doing it and it will be right back in a day or 2. I'm not even sure her headlights were messed up it looked more like something sticky was poured on them and let dry. To truly fix your headlights the need to be sanded and recleared. And whatever you do, DO NOT use any bug spray! The deet in the bug spray melts into the plastic of the light and there is no fixing that
Yeah, there is no way that this is a legit video, it "cleaned" up way to easily, i agree that something sticky was on that lamp, only sanding and reclearing is the best and longest lasting fix, this video is an utter scam to boost viewing and subscribers, shame on you for being deceitful.
You can do the same thing with micro rubbing compound it works it’s what I use and then I wax the headlights with car wax to protect it like the rest of the car
Most older headlight plastics were not UV resistant and manufactures used a clear spray that was but both get sandblasted over time and the surface becomes oxidized turning yellow . 3M and Sylvania make great restoration kits . And both use an abrasive first to remove the outer , oxidized surface . This hack is an old joke, may as well use Vaseline 😆😆😆😆
Not to be a naysayer, but I’ve tried several different methods and one common thing is that when the plastic on the light is dampened from these procedures they always seem to look clearer. They seem to go back shortly after. I used to do this to mine until I finally broke down and just installed new ones. Costs a bit but happier in the long run. Maybe this will help some for some people just didn’t do it for me.
The fog may be UV damage plus consist of multiple micro scratches reaching below surface, try a wax filler for the scratches plus a super light polishing abrasive. Baking soda or toothpaste won’t harm plastic and a light buffer touch up is about the best you can achieve.
This is not dirt! It is degradation of the top layer of plastic from exposure to UV rays and the grit from the road. The abrasive in toothpaste will give a temporary result, but it will not last long at all, as the top protective layer is destroyed. A fine wet sand sandpaper will do a better job than the toothpaste, but to maintain the clarity, you’ll need to apply a clear coat, one with resistance to UV. These “tips” are way light in the loafers, but it’s the internet, can’t expect real expertise now can you?
@@ginnyburley9552 it’s a spray can product. You can buy it in gloss, semi and mat. Mask off the light, protect the body near the light and give a couple of light coats.
Yeah, I’ve seen how the professional car detailers do it and nothing works the same as a sanding and new clear coat. I’d still use this method for the in-between though because not everyone wants to buy clear coat and try to do it themselves, or pay for a detailer to do it.
@frank bennett I guess after years of watching people put their time and effort into “solutions” that don’t really solve the problem, but for a moment, I wanted to offer the correct way. The correct way takes the same amount of time, roughly, but gives a result that lasts. Also, why should “women” not want results that last? As for being ruthless, after 60 years, I’ve learned that I don’t like wasting my time on bad advice. If that’s ruthless, so be it.
Headlamps are not sealed they are vented. Yes, the polycarbonate lens is glued to the housing but the back of the housing will have a vent hole so moisture can escape.
I see you work in a procedural area in the hospital. I have the same rags that come in our packs for interventional radiology! They work great for the garage😁
i've used maguire's headlight cleaner many times with unsatisfactory results. it would be encouraging to see the toothpaste method work. i've seen coca cola, beer, lemon, alcohol, buffing, all kinds of methods. just want one that will work.
Anyone else remember when the head light lens was made of glass and you didn't have this problem?
If glass no this problem
I also remember when we had a real president not a resident
Yeah, you had a different problem. They would shatter more with stone strikes. There is a reason glass is no longer used.
they weren't as aerodynamic or interesting either
Unless you lived in a place that used salt in the winter
All the restorations mentioned in this feed work to a degree, but not a permanent solution. I wish someone would force auto makers to go back to GLASS headlights as plastic doesn't hold up to UV destruction. After all, headlights are as much a safety feature as seat belts and air bags. They should be legislated to make them last the life of the car. Cutting costs in place of people's safety is just wrong. Anyway, that's my two cents.
glass is obsolete. modern composites in headlights are great, the older ones, not so much.
My daughters SAAB Has GLASS covers over her headlamps .... I have NEVER seen them Fog up Plastic /acrylic is CHEAPER to mold and produce , hence WHY Auto makers use Acrylic Plastic
@@Mp-jw1qg
So I guess your Saying
GLASS windshields are also obsolete ??
@@Wilett614 yeah they are actually. Polycarbonate is 250 times stronger than glass and about 25 times stronger than acrylic. polycarbonate diffuses uva and uvb light, polycarbonate is a much better insulator than glass and is also more clear than glass. Theres not 1 thing glass is better than polycarbonate at lol.
@@Mp-jw1qg Glass headlamp covers have been around and SUCESSFUL for 100+ Years ...
They NEVER failed or became Fogged ...
I get, that change is due
But there is NOTHING wrong with molded Tempered Glass my friend .
The foggy appearance is the failing anti UV coating applied by the manufacture, not dirt. It needs removing properly, preferably with sandpaper, and then polishing with proper compound. Using toothpaste isn’t sufficient and the fogging will appear fairly quickly again.
Once you’ve sanded and polished you need to seal it, preferably with a clear coat to prevent the UV degradation
You wouldn’t polish before applying clear coat just keep going to a really fine grit sandpaper then 2K lacquer and polish it once it’s dried.
@@bendude6748 a UV protecting clear coat will keep the headlights looking new for as long as possible. Leaving it to compound and polish, will cause it to get cloudy even faster and you’re back at square one all over again within a few months because the polycarbonate lenses are highly susceptible to degrading from extended exposure to sunlight and causes them to become very fragile.
Sanding, clearing, then polishing will make the headlights look as good as a brand new set that will look good for at least 5 or 6 years with nothing more than simple washing.
@@rotor13 No, @Bendude is correct to recommend leaving the plastic unpolished, but finely sanded before clearcoating.
rough sand, wet sand, 2 light coats of uv reisstent clear does it for me.
I use 1500, then 3000 wetsand. Then a Fine Foam high speed wheel, comes out crystal clear and no need to Clearcoat. I do this for a living.
I just went out and tried this. There was a significant improvement. I then went to EBAY and ordered a pair of replacement lenses. $21.00 for 2006 Mustang.
I enjoyed the video and the area around my left headlight is very clean now.
LOL😂
Why would you use a small toothbrush when you could use a plastic bristle dish scrubber? I mean how long do you want to be there? Scrubbing with a toothbrush is a punishment used in the military.
And the dentist office
X 2 headlights!
She used a small brush because she's patient and meticulous. These are two very admirable personality traits. Using such a method is only a punishment for the impatient and short attention span.
@@sewj8046 Work smarter, not harder.🤦♂
Yeah, like trimming your lawn with scissors.
I'm a auto tech and have cleaned 100's of headlights, toothpaste works because of the fine grit in it, I use a light auto rubbing compound and a buffer, works the best and only takes about 2 mins to do
And it comes back in 3 months.
@@bruceaugustine6486 HUM ABOUT 4 TO 6 months, the sun does it you can't stop it!
@@rawhiderandy You are correct you can't stop it, however if you do it with the proper way, you it will last for a couple of years instead of for 4-6 months. I have been doing it for over 20 years i used to clean them but now i restore them and have actually had them last for 4 years and some are still clear, it depends on if people clean them and do a wash regularly or if they put no effort into cleaning them at all. Doing a proper restoration is much better than a toothpaste cleaning, think about it, if you only brush your teeth every 4-6 months and then brush them again, they will not be white in 2 minutes, then you go to the dentist and have them cleaned, they will be white and stay that was with regular maintenance. toothpaste is for teeth not headlights. Spending 30-40 minutes doing it the right was the headlights will stay clean using products designed for polycarbonate headlights.
The headlight is still wett and looks nice. But when it has dry it Will look like before... The only fix its sanding with waterpaper 800 - 1500 - 2500 - 3500. After that i will go with polish and a headlight sealant 👍
Atleast she didnt use bug spray 😂
@@paulhall70 hahahaha 😂
The headlight sealant is overlooked 95% of the time, and without it, the freshly regenerated lenses turn foggy or yellow again very quickly.
I theorize 🧐 that it’s because even though the lenses have turned foggy, the fixture still left the factory with sealant on the lenses. So the factory sealant was slowing the fogging process… but then I just sanded it off when polishing the lens. 🙁
I did it wrong once and the headlights looked amazing for about 2-3 weeks, then they yellowed even worse than they were before. I forgot to put the sealant on 😕
P.S. I have collected 4 of the Meguiar’s kits, and only one came with sealant.
Indeed, like a glaze on paint. A temporary solution.
This video makes me think about the "drill a hole in your iphone".
I'm waiting for the complaints 😃.
WD 40?
Use a UV Resistant clear coat on the lens after cleaning it. You can get it in a spray can at any Home Depot. This will keep the lens from fogging up again for about 3-5 years or so.
What brand?
@@CocoChanelle-1 rustoleum
@@vick.2018 I bought the Meguiar kit that includes the spray clear coat for the light lens. Will try next week. Afraid of the paint heating up.
Spray can is to thick. If you really compare to a better clear the refraction from spray is ridiculous. You can actually see the refraction tests on youtube
@@CocoChanelle-1 😊😊😊
Fine grit rubbing compound .also I used to work at a industrial plastic company. I remember machinists using corn starch on final polishing of clear plastics.
Corn STARCH or Corn MEAL?
Make sure you floss between the headlight and spot light, for best results use listerine afterwards…
👍😆😆😆😆😆
Too Funny... I held back from asking if I used an electric toothbrush would a round head actually be better?
Ohh... that reminds me, gotta get my annual cleaning before end of year.
And fill up the headlights with fluid
HA! Cute. 😏
❤️💜💚
Hint: Use Meguiars Headlight Coating after cleaning (and then yearly). This product prevents the plastic from fogging again.
Use Their rubbing compound to clean them instead of toothpastes too. Works MUCH better and you don't need much at all!😉
@@boundlessobsession6266 I use Meguiars and have had success with it. If you do use toothpaste, don;t forget to floss afterwards
Thank you.
@@boundlessobsession6266 what kind of rubbing compound and where can you find it?Thank you.
Actually use different grits of sandpaper. Then clear coat when done. It's the best way
Walmart charges $25 to clean both headlights and they look awesome when they are done!
It does take about 1.5 hours for the process
Power tip!!!
Thanks I didn't know walmart did that
Don't last I've had mine done numerous times until a friend told me about Deep Wood Off spray on wipe off when dry spray with a UV clearcoat to seal it.
This is a smart content creator. She makes a video on a common problem, provides a sub optimal solution and then harvests all of the comments of the internet experts who just couldn't resist the opportunity to demonstrate their knowledge.
"and then harvests all of the comments..." For what purpose?
@@albertfinney1328 It gives you a boost in the youtube algorithm which leads to more views.
@@brendonwilliams4050 So you maybe mean they benefit from them. Of course they do! And some so greedy too fast and wrong headings used. Harvest is to gather.
You are right. And notice the toothpaste swirls when she finishes and then cuts to the bucket of water. When she comes back to the lens, the swirls are different! 🤨🤔
AND with a deceptive teaser thumbnail (She never showed the blue goo!).
I agree with Kevin. The auto companies should go back to glass or develop a better headlight lens. after all, being in the front of the vehicle it takes a lot of weather and sand blasting along with the sun UV. I have a Volvo XC90 that's been exposed to the Texas sand storms and extreme sun. I had to wet sand the headlights every year until the sun exposure ruined the inside of lens and I had to purchase new headlights last year...
If you did some research before hand you would have come across a product call'ed headlight clear film maximum protection UV, It's a DIY job it's fiddly process but when you consider it will last 10 times longer than any Clear coat with UV protection well worth the effort in my opinion!!!🤔🇬🇧👍
I tried that years ago I ended up wet sanding 400 up to 3000 grit sand paper and spray cleaner coat spray paint after it's dry and cured put some car wax it to protect the clear coat. Option 2 just buy new headlight assemblies and buy in pairs
but the cost ? yikes !
There's plenty of new factory OEM would be your highest then after market would be your mid price lowest would be a junk yard. Next year I'll have to get a set for my tracker
Only problem with buying new headlight assembly, for me at least. Each assembly was in excess of $600.00. $1,200 00 for both headlights. My mechanic told me to go to Walmart, or anywhere insect repellents are sold and buy a can of Johnson ,& Johnson Deep woods Off. I have tried other insect repellent. Deep woods Off is the best. Wash your headlights and get all the dirt off you can. While the light is still wet spray the repellent directly on the headlights do one at a time. Leave it on a minute or two and use a Mr clean magic eraser sheet dampened with water. They work great and take only a few minutes. Come in a pack of 8. 5.8 x 3.5.
Keep this handy, and when you wash your car or truck go over them . Only takes a minute.
Quick tip: anything cleans better if it's wet first.
Wouldn't sand. Scratches light surface.
Sure beats $1,200 for new lighting harness which was the only way I could replace my headlights.
A technique I found that works well is using baking soda and vinegar. A relative of mine owns an older Subaru with about 170 thousand miles on the odometer. The lights were extremely fogged and nearly useless for night driving. Mixed the two and while the fuzzing reaction was going on I rubbed it into the plastic using a microfiber towel. The result was much better than I expected. I would guess that around 90% of the original transparency was regained. Obviously this is only a short term solution but the components are cheap and readily available. Altogether working on both headlights took only about 5 to 10 minutes. So it's an easy solution whenever you might be washing your vehicle.
Thank you for that tip! I have a 2005 Toyota I still love to drive so I will definitely give this a try.
Baking Soda & Lemon works,Also
To those looking for a way to restore your headlights, just realize that each headlight fogs, yellows, and fades for different reasons and not one solution will work for every situation. In some cases a gritty toothpaste might work, in others you may be able to use automotive compound or polish, and in extreme cases you may have to do multiple sandings with multiple grits of sandpaper and follow it up with compounding, polish, and/or wax. And then you still will need to follow up with some kind of protectant, wax, or even UV film, otherwise the light will just yellow and/or fog again later. Watch lots of videos and look for videos that show headlights that look like yours. Even then you may have to try several different solutions or just pay to have them professionally done.
I have wet sanded headlights with 1500,2000 and 2500 grit cloth. They look new for about a year
They get that bad just replace them
At that point, would it just be more practical to replace them? I don't know the cost of all of that restoration, or the cost of replacements.
@@philipfm I do too..but living in the Caribbean 3 mths the most
If you're brave, you can use Acetone. It will briefly melt the oxidation off. But it's, "ONE SWIPE! IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY!!!" Don't rub or scrub it or it will smear the softened plastic resin. Practice on an old car. 'It worked on my Ford focus.'
I've tried this before, it works, okay. Best thing I've found is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and baking soda. Put it on like wax rubbing hard for a minute or 2, let it sit for about 1 min then rinse. Will seriously make your headlight look brand new. I suggest using a headlight protectant afterwards to keep it looking new 2 or 3 times a year.
This does not solve the problem, because it will go back to being foggy within a day.
The reason why headlights get cloudy, is the outermost layer of coating has failed and is cracking.
You need to wet sand with 600-800 grit sand paper until the coating is gone, and then continue stepping up to finer grit sandpaper until about 3000-5000 grit.
Then you spray on a fresh coat of UV protecting clearcoat, let sit for 15 minutes, spray another coat, wait another 15, spray a 3rd coat and let it cure for a week.
The wet sand with 1500 grit, working your way back to 3000-5000 grit, then use compound on a random-orbital polish machine, then use an actual polishing product and you have perfectly restored headlights.
The actual labor should only take about 1 hr at most for the wet sanding per headlight.
Or if that is too much effort - buy a new set of Factory headlights - none of that Chinesium crap hocked on eBay that has worse light output than stock.
Using toothpaste, oils, solvents and such - doesn’t actually do anything than being a very temporary bandaid that requires constant reapplication.
Actual physical/mechanical abrasion to remove the failed coating, or replacement is the only way.
Exactly
thanks for saving me a lot of typing.
I found toothpaste did not work, I bought a special kit that did and it really wasn't that expensive.
Yup...might just want to WD-40 it...that will last a day or two and it less work.
You are 💯 correct...i would know. Trial and error.
Wow! Never thought this could be done w out sanding paper. I also think clear coating ur headlights might make it last longer, to prevent this type of degradation. Just my 2 cents. Thank u for sharing! ❤
It would be great to have glass and not plastic head lights
The car makers did save money and sell more head lights
Unfortunately the days of $10 sealed beams are long gone.
What, take me back to the 1960s?? EXACTLY!! We used to have glass headlights, they were owner replaceable, and didn't cost over $10 to replace. But today, you need a mechanic to replace plastic headlights, that only cost $500.00 apiece. Now there's some REAL progress...😳😢😡 Here's my Christmas present to the automakers. Watch closely.....🌲😤
Simple reason, is Because a Plastic lens. SAVES WEIGHT On the Lamp assy, COMPARED To glass. And All parts of the car Are Now In plastic. Which SAVES WEIGHT On the car. In turn SAVES £££££ @ THE Petrol Station.
My 1954 MG has glass, unsealed, headlights. It takes globes that look they belong in an old torch.
As an aviation guy who has used MicroMesh to “repair” plastic aircraft canopies many times. I can say with confidence this would only work with a very specific degree of fogging, that is light. The amount of time required for a complete repair on most headlights using toothpaste would not be practical with a machine and definitely astronomical by hand. Normal procedure is to start with a coarse grit to remove pitting and progressively finer grits to remove the scratches from the previous grit. There are solvent products that can coat or reseal the surface for a longer lasting repair. If you look carefully at the finished example it is still wet which makes it look better, check the haze forming on the lower left of the headlight in the video to get an idea of what it low I’ll look like when completely dry. This can help a lot in some cases but the video misrepresents what you can expect if there is yellowing and pitting.
It does work for a short time ! After a few weeks the oxyadation comes back , but it is still a neat trick in a pinch
Even with a lens cleaning kit if you don't seal it with a uv protectant it's going to oxidize again.
I read elsewhere, after any type cleaning polishing treatment to spray them with non-yellowing clear coat paint. Said they won't fog up again! ... Well they said that ??
Seems there's a lot of ways to clean them. The key step is sealing them with anti UV clear coat when they are clean, so it lasts. They do go foggy again fast if not sealed, no matter what you use to clean them. The manufacturers coating on the lights wearing off is why they fog to begin with. You need to replace it on clean lights. I find the clear coat solutions in most kits inadequate, better off with a spray can of clear coat
This exactly. Also it is a LOT easier to fix the fogginess with a power drill and a kit than toothpaste and a toothbrush. The end result is also going to look nicer.
So spray with paint clear coat?
@@livenfree They make specialty headlight clear coat that is more durable than just regular paint clear coat. Variety of choices on Amazon.
Where do you find the UV clear coat? What is the name? Thank you.
in addition do NOT polish or buff after sanding. This will only make the resin fog again, but instead clear coat as you mentioned.
This is a great quick way to get results without buying any specialty kits. But you finally have to apply the protective coating cause UV rays will dull the finish again.
Meguiars headlight restoration kit works really well. There's three kits but I didn't bother with the first two. Follow the instructions and you will get great results. My car is 20 years old and I restored the headlights six months ago and they still look great. About $30 cdn.
I've done it thousands of times using wet/dry sandpaper on a drill pad, and polishing compound on a high speed buffer (former car detailer), can't imagine how much elbow grease it took to get to that point.
I'm also a detailer I use either plastix or alloy polish compound and come up like brand new
Sand and clear is the only real way. Ex detailer.
she faked it, thats why. if you have seen as many bad headlights as i have you can spot that she made them look that way. you can even see some residue on the bumper just below the light. also she kept the lens wet to help make it look better than it was.
Yep she sprayed Testors dullcoat or more likely hairspray on bright plastic. Then a haze of gray. That paint comes off fresh shiny plastic pretty easily. Hairspray comes off with an alcohol wipe..or wet toothpaste.
Toothpaste won't fix a light that far gone.
Mothers and a buffer will only clear it, but it'll still be dull as the UV paint is now gone.
If doing Mothers, either repaint it with headlight clesrcyoat afterwards or plastic polish every two weeks. One or the other.
@@STho205 bingo! frauds for views : ) I am in the middle of a experiment right now, I polished both lights and put clear vinyl laminate, Avery Dennison on one, it is still perfect and the uncovered is starting to yellow.. probably way cheaper than PPF
Temporary fix...WD40 works just as well and takes a few seconds. The foggy lenses will return after the oil evaporates and you'll need to do it over again and again but for a temporary fix it works great. Bring back glass headlights!
4 out of 5 dentists recommend this method for cleaning headlights.
😂
For their patients who clean headlights
And they'll also be minty fresh!
then, rinse with Mouthwash🤣
4 out of 5 dentists who clean headlights prefer this method to the one you probably use.
I'm liking the comments over UV / Sun damage yet, no one has pointed out that buying cheap after-market lamps also cause discolouration and damage to plastics too from the inside out.
Damage isn't always external with headlights.
How does this hold up long term. I've used many different methods but they all seem to take me right back to foggy within 2 or 3 weeks. Any recommendations for sealing the clean plastic after cleaning? Great video though...I like the concept. Thanks
Basically the advice in this video is pretty mediocre. The fogginess isn't caused by dirt. It's oxidation of the lens. Once clear you need to use a UV sealant to prevent rapid reoccurrence.
To make it a semi-permanent repair, once you get your polycarbonate lenses cut down to crystal clear material, simply apply a quality ceramic coating like CarPro Quartz or Dura-Slick ceramic coating. Ceramic coatings are wayyyy full of UV repellent and that is actually the root of the problem. Lasts for a couple years unless you do a surface prep after cutting and then use a quality 4K UV Repellent Clear Coat spray and you'll never worry about them again
@Homer Holler that the issue isn't caused by dirt, which is what is claimed. The outer surface of the lens oxidises with time causing it to become brittle leading to micro-cracks and cloudiness. When you use an abrasive it removes this outer layer which gets rid of the immediate issue however it removes any factory protection the lens has and so oxidation will reoccur in a much shorter period. Therefore the lens requires protection after the job is done, this is usual via a uv protectant.
UV clearcoat is the actual real "fix". Anything else is just a bandaid shortcut. The amount of time and money people invest in polishing and re-polishing after a few months is astonishing. Either do a proper sand/clearcoat job, or just buy new lights, they can be had cheaply, just a few bucks more than the better polishing kits. $50 for a good polshing kit, or $69 for 2 new headlights delivered? Your call I guess...
I have this issue in both headlights..gonna try this this weekend..I will let you know how it turns out, Thank you so much❤👌
Really a shame headlights aren't made from glass anymore. 😢
Not me because glass breaks and you can only do simple designs. I’d rather replace them and deal with yellowing.
That’s BS. Glass lenses can be molded into any shape. Many automakers do use glass lenses the reason others don’t is because it’s cheaper. Cars today are just plastic pieces of junk.
I used a cup of baking soda & peroxide. Make a paste & scrub. They shine like new. I sprayed fish oil= WD40. Looks great.
I tried toothpaste and it only lasted a short time. Wal Mart's automotive bays where I buy tires cleaned and treated my headlights on my Sienna van for about $29. Best money I've ever spent. It's been over a year and they still look great. I literally could not see out of my car at night, it was dangerous. Try it. Other places may do it for you too.
Lucky man. In Australia everyone charges like $80 per headlight to clean them. Sure they use the best quality gear, but still expensive. Cheers
My prices start at $35 and I use professional grade product. The store-bought kits Etc will last 18 to 24 months and will go back to the fading and yellowing.
Im going to have to try this! Cant beleive all the haters and negative comments, why watch it? Obviously, they are looking for a cheap temporary fix??!!!
Glass headlights never had this problem only the newer plastic headlight do.
I did it with Colgate with baking soda IT WORKS !!!nice to see the road again!!!!😁😁😁👍👍👍
i like how you found the smallest brush possible to scrub the headlight lol. Your can definitely safe some elbow grease by using a bigger brush. I use a drill attachment brush that is soft for scrubbing upholstery from the janitorial supply store. It won't scratch the plastic and it does the work for you.
Excellently executed. Mam.
Very well done!
You should also use a UV inhibitor spray, to make the fix last longer, and prevent yellowing.
This works Great. thank you. And even if i have to do this once a year its worth it. Thanks again.
I've used this before and it definitely works but using a cloth works better and takes less time than a tiny toothbrush and dont use a soft one
Instead of wasting tooth paste, wheel polish works great. Also after getting it clean to maintain this for over a year it's best to coat it with ceramic coating/wax.
Also, don't forget to floss and use a good quality mouthwash on your headlights as well!
My car has a look confidence boost now when passing other cars
Wow amazing...I used that stuff on my teeth and they were clean also..so many things you can do...I'm gonna try cleaning my house
Congrats on teaching your viewers the most overcomplicated way to slightly improve their headlight. For the lazy people a microfiber towel and some metal polish or compound will do a much better job for less money and time. True headlight restoration requires sanding and clear coating the lens otherwise your headlight will be yellow again in a few weeks.
I was told Mother's mag polish and a micro fiber style scrub pad and a drill it works great
Also I contest with you're last part of the comment. Some people have mild foggy headlights and sometimes they dont really need to sand them but that's only to some vehicles. I know I have a fusion and my driver side headlights fogged out and my passengers is clear. Sometimes the side of the car that's closes to on coming vehicles will be slightly foggier then the othetside.
@@covidisalie2139 Mild foggy is the beginning visuals of oxidation and the breakdown of the UV protection. Sand and apply UV protecting clearcoat for proper repair.
It takes about 5 minutes per grit to wet sand headlights half way through the second sanding you begin to see the results. McGuires sells a scratch fix to finish it off. I have a Murano, the front bumper and grill need to be removed to take out the headlights.
All you did was remove the oxidized plastic with the abrasive toothpaste (similar to any abrasive polish). 4 months later (depending on how much you drive the car), it will look like garbage again. Unless after the headlight is polished to clear that a polymeric coating/hardener is applied to protect the newly revealed plastic surface, your results will not last and you are back to wasting more toothpaste.
True. While it's not perfect, 4 months isn't awful for the amount of work and cost. I wish I could clean my floor and have it last that long, lol
@@CleanFreakGermaphobe Buy a simple kit from McGuire's with the polish and coating spray at any auto store and you wouldn't touch you headlights again for at least 2 years. That saves a helluva lot of work over time. My time is well worth the additional cost to do it once correctly rather than the same amount of time repeatedly. It is the engineering adage at work: 1) Fast, 2) Cheap, 3) Working correctly; you only ever get two out of three. Your way is fast and cheap but sorry, it just isn't the correct way to maintain your headlights.
I just did mine with a 14 dollar Kit .Very easy and last step is wiping with a ceramic coating.They look show room new.
Maguire's chrome polish will work better. And using a dense sponge will allow you to polish more surface at a time. The toothbrush is to small.
i like maguires@
This will keep your headlights clean and cavity-free!
😁😁😁😁
No
no, just no... Do things the right way. 600 grit, 1200 grit, 2000 grit, 2500grit then compound and polish. Lasts longer, more effective, much better results. keep the toothpaste in your bathroom cabinet and nowhere near a car... it would have been called carpaste in that case
Compound? Like wall Compound for patching and repair? Drywall Compound?
@@tiffanyheilman6119 its called a cutting compound... Nothing to do with patching/repairs
So I tried this on my mom's car and it worked pretty well, it didn't get all the fog cause there may be some inside the lights but I got alot of it off and they look alot better in my opinion. I give this hack a A+
A lot of people don't realize but toothpaste is a polish. Meaning it has a bunch of tiny "rocks" essentially. What you're doing is you're actually slowly wearing down your enamel in order to polish them to a "shine" which is what we call "white" teeth.
Which is why nobody should ever use whitening toothpaste, after years of use you will wear the enamel away, which is the only thing protecting your teeth, then you’ll have decay start, and then tooth loss.
Stick to a normal non whitening fluoride toothpaste, brush properly twice a day, then you won’t even have stained or yellow teeth, so you won’t ever need them whitening in the first place!
The only thing I would add after cleaning would be a sealant (or at least wax) to help prevent oxidation. These will have to be reapplied occasionally and after any further abrasive cleaning.
MAKE GLASS AGAIN !
Uv clearcoat, sun blisters the without it
No matter what "fix" you try to do will only be temporary. The outer layer pf plastic is degrading and trying to flake off. Nothing will stop that from happening.
Wow! I'm impressed. I will try this, thanks.
And what happened?
@RubyLahna-f6h I haven't tried it yet
I would prefer to see it completely dry because I've had plenty that look good until they got completely dry and then they were still hazy
Thanks for the knowledge,I will work on my headlights to make them give more light.
I noticed the second she put that on you could see on the back getting clear ,even before she rubbed it in …. I wish this would actually work
Seems like regular suntan lotion spf 30 that we use on our body would work on headlights since it is uv rays that cause discoloration. Suntan lotion is cheap. What do you think?
Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish does a Awsome job.
u r the first who said if it is from inside it ll nit work i appriciate its honest statement
Not the greatest method, but boy it will smell great and no cavities.
lol good
I agree not the best method..but still better than bug spray.
@@scottspencer8358 unless there's a swarm of mosquitos or no seems.
Incredible fantastic advice ! (sarcasm) People from my town and not only was doing it like 25 years ago, every one know this methond - we was calling it "village polishing"
Can belive so that primitive methods are still on use. Better is to buy any cheep polishing paste and some selant for head lamps. For about 50 EUR possible to buy both and use it once a year to keep lamps shiny. That 50 EUR for 2-3 years its not some big expensive deal.
I'm not going to say this is a click bait video but in the real world of headlight restoration the only color you see on headlights that are oxidized like this are clear coats. With clear coats that have gone bad there is no way tooth paste or even metal polish will remove that. I have no idea what that was on that headlight before the tooth paste was applied but I don't think that was plastic oxidation which is normally yellowish.
I've service clients headlights and have done so for six years. I've seen the toothpaste attempts that always failed because there's more you have to put into scrubbing with that stuff than people think and that's if it's not a clear coat issue which is frosty white or flaking from the headlights.
If you have a small haze of oxidation on your headlights the tooth paste might help a little, but it'll be quicker and faster to just get rubbing compound or metal polish. That scrubbing away oxidation with a toothbrush is hilarious.
And oh yeah, if you don't replace the UV coating, the headlight will oxidize again after about a month or two.
Some how it looks like ice but not sure how on just the headlight. but you can clearly see the water melting when she is showing the toothpaste on the finger tips. At 1:29 look under the back of her hand at the headlight.
I also been doing headlights for about twenty years. This is no way anything more than light oxidation. Toyota and Honda headlamps are easiest. Gm and Ford are the crappiest clear coat available. Most Toyota and Honda lights i do only require mild work and not total sanding thru like domestics.
Right, there was somesort of coating on that headlight lens that was not oxidation. It was too thick and lumpy. Gritty toothpaste would need a whole lot more vigorous work and would not work that well.
@@dt90891 I agree. GM and Ford headlights are hideous. I charge more to do those because it's always a dogfight to remove their clear coats.
This method also works for even the worst headlight halitosis. Your headlights breath will smell minty fresh for days.
I cleaned mine and wiped with alcohol. Then I taped off the area and sprayed them with clear coat. Works like a charm.
Clear coat of what? Wax?
Can you use nail polish clear coat, they make a nail polish clear coat that cures with a uv light?
I’ve heard this works , will have to try it sometime.
For those who say that it doesn't work. Use whitening toothpaste, no regular one.
Sooo satisfying to see the the finished work!!! Great video!
the proper way is wet sand paper either by hand or by machine, then polish it out to clear, then ceramic coating on top or another sort of uv protectant such as clear coat
Wat grade of paper?
@@brandonbell6171 I'd recommend 1500-2k grit, if it's real bad you can start with 1k grit
@@wilsondetailing4577 OK thanks
@@brandonbell6171 - ceramic coatings are transparent to UV rays...
My car is 20 years old so has very foggy headlights. All I do to make them clear again is clean off the dirt then rub in a bit of olive oil and buff off the excess. I’m sure any oil would work.
I do this 3-4 times a year and it works alright.
The headlamps may begin to become foggy within a few months unless you carefully apply 2 or 3 coats of automotive clearcoat. Once that's done, you should be good for a few years. Trust me, I've done this...both with and without the clearcoat. Difference is dramatic. I use the headlight restore kit from Advance Auto. Toothpaste won't always do a very good job on really dulled headlamps.
Thank tou for sharing I have been always using Mother's polish from automotive stores & it works. Now that I have watched your video I them will give it a try. What I really liked about your video is there is no buffing necessary again thank you.
This is true. It won't last very long at all.
There's a GREAT Meguires kit that's only 19 bucks. You do need a drill but the process restored 2 of my cars, one mild and one that was really bad. I still have enough to do another.
Clear coat is fine, but not everybody knows how to apply it. So the best thing for the normal person would be is to apply a wax coat every couple months to protect.
toothpaste has titanium disulfate (chemical used to etch cement TSD) and zinc phosphates which react with the Acrylis resin only to make it worse. Sand with 100-1800 grit paper until smooth and clear coal at least 2-3 coats.
I love the smile those lights , so bright !!!
Want to do the same thing with a lot less work? Spray on Deep Woods Off, the bug spray. Spray on, wipe off, rinse. A coat of car wax after you're done helps seal the lens.
You recently touted about a sponge for cleaning in the kitchen. What was the name of the sponge?
Other than glass a UV screen can be applied similar to the one used in paints.
As a final step what I usually do is take some clear coat paint and a spray can mask off the headlight and spray over it just for one maybe two coats and this will keep the headlight cleaner for a longer. What causes it to Haze over like this is the UV rays from the Sun beating down on the headlight and all the debris from the road doesn't help.
ALWAYS make it a habit NOT to subscribe to any UA-cam channel that begs for a thumbs up, or to subscribe, right at the beginning of a video. NEVER EVER.
On a similar note.. you can brush your teeth with rubbing compound
Guys dont do this. You will spend all this time doing it and it will be right back in a day or 2. I'm not even sure her headlights were messed up it looked more like something sticky was poured on them and let dry. To truly fix your headlights the need to be sanded and recleared. And whatever you do, DO NOT use any bug spray! The deet in the bug spray melts into the plastic of the light and there is no fixing that
Yeah, there is no way that this is a legit video, it "cleaned" up way to easily, i agree that something sticky was on that lamp, only sanding and reclearing is the best and longest lasting fix, this video is an utter scam to boost viewing and subscribers, shame on you for being deceitful.
Growing up in the country in the Deep South, we also used toothpaste as a remedy for fire ant bites.
You can do the same thing with micro rubbing compound it works it’s what I use and then I wax the headlights with car wax to protect it like the rest of the car
So what specific toothpaste are you using?
Most older headlight plastics were not UV resistant and manufactures used a clear spray that was but both get sandblasted over time and the surface becomes oxidized turning yellow . 3M and Sylvania make great restoration kits . And both use an abrasive first to remove the outer , oxidized surface .
This hack is an old joke, may as well use Vaseline 😆😆😆😆
I just said that and agree. There are temporary measures, bit replacement with LED bulbs is much better!!!
All i want to say is it freaking worked. Its clear that all that matters lol..... Ugggghhh the negativity in the comments....
Meguiars headlight restorer works great
Not to be a naysayer, but I’ve tried several different methods and one common thing is that when the plastic on the light is dampened from these procedures they always seem to look clearer. They seem to go back shortly after. I used to do this to mine until I finally broke down and just installed new ones. Costs a bit but happier in the long run. Maybe this will help some for some people just didn’t do it for me.
The fog may be UV damage plus consist of multiple micro scratches reaching below surface, try a wax filler for the scratches plus a super light polishing abrasive. Baking soda or toothpaste won’t harm plastic and a light buffer touch up is about the best you can achieve.
what did you put on the light before starting to film?
This is not dirt! It is degradation of the top layer of plastic from exposure to UV rays and the grit from the road. The abrasive in toothpaste will give a temporary result, but it will not last long at all, as the top protective layer is destroyed. A fine wet sand sandpaper will do a better job than the toothpaste, but to maintain the clarity, you’ll need to apply a clear coat, one with resistance to UV.
These “tips” are way light in the loafers, but it’s the internet, can’t expect real expertise now can you?
What is a clear coat? Is there a particular product that will seal the plastic?
@@ginnyburley9552 it’s a spray can product. You can buy it in gloss, semi and mat. Mask off the light, protect the body near the light and give a couple of light coats.
Yeah, I’ve seen how the professional car detailers do it and nothing works the same as a sanding and new clear coat. I’d still use this method for the in-between though because not everyone wants to buy clear coat and try to do it themselves, or pay for a detailer to do it.
@frank bennett I guess after years of watching people put their time and effort into “solutions” that don’t really solve the problem, but for a moment, I wanted to offer the correct way. The correct way takes the same amount of time, roughly, but gives a result that lasts.
Also, why should “women” not want results that last? As for being ruthless, after 60 years, I’ve learned that I don’t like wasting my time on bad advice. If that’s ruthless, so be it.
@frank bennett I heartily recommend your methods for folks who like to waste time and do things over and over. Are we good now?
I agree with others comments regarding glass headlamps. I'd also like to point out an even better remedy with less effort and time is using T-cut.
This video mentions at 29 second mark about dirt coming from the inside. How does dirt enter a sealed headlight unit?
Headlamps are not sealed they are vented. Yes, the polycarbonate lens is glued to the housing but the back of the housing will have a vent hole so moisture can escape.
I see you work in a procedural area in the hospital. I have the same rags that come in our packs for interventional radiology! They work great for the garage😁
You use a white gritty toothpaste in the video, but the video thumbnail is blue gel.🙄
i've used maguire's headlight cleaner many times with unsatisfactory results. it would be encouraging to see the toothpaste method work. i've seen coca cola, beer, lemon, alcohol, buffing, all kinds of methods. just want one that will work.
I did my car's headlights with "OFF" the mosquito repellant, worked very well and fast, so far so good, it's been a month, time will tell I guess.
The Cerakote kit is great. The most important part is the sealer, and Cerakote is a great ceramic clear.