Some makers are charging 4/5/600 dollars for a piece of 1095 worth about 3 bucks. But on the other hand... People are buying it. Not using your brain has a price, a consequence. I appreciate your message, and everything you're doin! ✌🏼
Erica, Thanks again for bringin more “knowledgeable” things to light .. I don’t think u will ever cure the “stupidity disease” BUT what ur doin IS making a DIFFERENCE. Love to u and the pups. 💜😈✌🏼
Great video. Certain companies or makers are avoiding super steels because they don’t want to spend the time and the money to learn how to implement them. Eventually they either change or be relegated to only having a “cult” following
Where you'll notice less toughness + easier chipping of something like k390 is going to be in scooping cuts I believe...anything that is putting a lot of lateral stress on the apex. I'm not comparing it to 1095 as that's a steel I've never even used.
@@ericasedc well I definitely love the one I've already purchased from you, I'll have to go buy me another slip joint so I have an excuse to buy another slip. 😉
I don't understand how anyone could hate what your doing.........your just trying to spread knowledge. Oh-- sorry I forgot. That scares the hell outta the brain dead masses lol.........all jokes aside I found your channel and just started watching because you seemed bright and squared away. Carry on, please.
The most important attribute for knife steel in my view is the ability to go thru a full day of work with the knife remaining sharp enough so it doesnt become dangerous. I run my own cut testing system so that all knives go thru the same procedure Toughness just happens to be the last thing i actually test for. Id have to double check my logs but i do believe spydercos k390 matched Steve Callaris cpm 154 in edge retention and toughness. I know his 4V outcut that k390 in the testing ive done so far.
You're absolutely right Erica! And don't start me out on the craizines of handle SCALES!!! All one needs is a durable handle and scales, the range of scales material to justify high prices is absolutely insane!!!
Many of the new steels are fantastic! You mentioned some of my favorites. Cruwear, Magnacut, K390, M4, AEBL done right is also really good. I don't need the extra rust resistance, so my pick for a fixed blade would be either K390 or Cruwear. I love K390 with a toothy edge! With that said, I am perfectly happy with a simple carbon steel on a camping trip. Wood is not that abrasive and the knife will stay sharp a long time. However do a cut test on something abrasive like cardboard and the difference is night and day!
Great testing.. I enjoy the even way you tackle these videos. Love seeing yas here.. seems like its been a while since you've shown up on My start page.
Another good video, Lil Homie. I like that AEB knife. That’s a bigger boy than you normally use. These folks ripping folks off are mad you are telling on them. Those type of people won’t last.
You like so small holding that Adventure sworn, lol. I have a cruwear splinter at 64.5 HRC. Once I get it we will see what it can do. That Slater right there is badass 👊
Marketing is full of psychologists and spin doctors so the fact that there is any truth in advertising is amazing in itself. Many will selectively limit their research until the funnel leads them to their own reality. Sometimes you have to realize it is time to flush.
“We don’t agree on a lot of things” 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I think the only thing we don’t agree on is people’s happiness! But that’s ok, different people can have different opinions. It’s what makes life exciting! So, here’s a fun fact about batoning! Baton has nothing to do with the edge but more so toughness. If you’ll notice, the edge only touches the material your batoning once, in most cases! unless you baton into a knot! It took me forever to figure that out. Out of curiosity, who is saying exactly that 1095 is better than any modern day CPM steel?
@@Primitivebearknives I want everyone to be happy. If lying and making pretend science up is part of your happiness- that is what I don’t support. If you think all makers can do “what makes them happy” and it’s at the detriment to the customer base, that’s part of the problem. I won’t be blasting the referrals here in the comments- however I can send you screen shots and links via DM on Instagram if you wish.
Wood is alot harder on steel tools than we give it credit for tbh, though it depends alot on species and grain. Some species like bamboo is straight up abrasive even, especially if you go across the grain.
@@kvernesdotten yes. I just have to say it every single time because if I don’t- the same person comments saying “wood isn’t abrasive you proved nothing.” So I’m like a robot now haha
@@kvernesdotten knots are certainly a bitch and can chip out even the strongest of steels. Most people who actually know what they're doing out in the woods are not carving much beyond some soft greenwood and not batoning seasoned oak, though.
Sod busters usually have a great heat treatment, case is really serious about their tempering. The two x’s are stamps from q.c. From them checking after the two thermal cycles. For cheap stainless steel I think case does great.
I have a custom Dulo knife in k390, 3mm stock, full convex, 65hrc. Slicy as hell but I baton the shit out of it and it performs like a champ. Never chipped yet. Good heat treat counts for a lot imo. Just look at Top's 1095 vs xxxxx's 1095.
Love the fixed blade videos. One of my favorite Knives ever is the top wild pig hunter in 1095, but your channel got me into super steals. Will probably die starving and broke, but I’ll have an $800 knife with me somewhere. Love the channel. 4:31
Still not that into fixed blades, however i clicked at the video anyways, because your wonderfull and i haven't watched a knife video for a while now(: Am now at 9minuttes, maybe i'll watch the rest tomorrow, getting late overe here in Norway, and i need to sleep😴 Hope all is good with you, take care
I absolutely hated letting my first K390 go lol. I used it to make the sheath and cut boxes all weekend before I gave it to customer(friend) and I showed it over weekend at an art fest, and everyone loved it. Serious investment in sand paper lol, at 65 hrc this first batch is not fun to finish bevels. I'll be charging extra for polished forsure. I cant wait to make my own, or just claim one of em. Next two got handles today!!!
13:52 "We can Make Knives Great Again" I know your channel is miles away from anything political, but I just laughed when I heard you say this...uh...campaign slogan 😅😂 Peace Sister E.
I like carbon steels. I know what to expect from them. I’ve been thinking about it quite a bit since the last video you posted. I don’t agree that 1095 or 80crv2 is necessarily inferior because it has never failed me and takes a wicked edge quickly without microbevelling, but I do agree that the pricepoint for those knives is too high for material and machining cost. TOPS Knives for starters not only sells 1095 for ludicrous prices but also can’t heat treat it worth a damn. ESEE is a decent overall package, but I never liked their 1095 as much as 1095CV from KaBar. I have had s35vn break on me before and it put a bad taste in my mouth for “new steel” reliability. I have a varied amount of steels in my collection and I like the harder steels for certain size ranges and applications. I do trust 1095 that’s well heat treated over some newer steels that the heat treatment is still more in the experimental stages for certain companies. Especially when I go on a hike/camp a few miles in, I’m going to lean towards what I trust. At the end of the day the form of the knife and the quality of heat treatment will win out for me over just the steel choice. I am considering a White River knives in Magnacut to try the steel from a maker that is supposedly “doing it right”
Interesting you say that a Tops can't heat treat but I've had the opposite experience Tops has been consitantly harder than esse also becker and kabar 1095cv is decent hardness but brittle. Something happening in the tempering stage . But neways to each their own hope you have a good day
@@Danielstanius For some reason TOPS insists on differential heat treating their 1095, which is just a bad idea for actual longevity. You’ll get a nice hard edge that holds longer but very unstable blades due to that. Soft spines with harder than they should be edges = micro cracks that get bigger if it does fail. Blade bends, spine is soft and flexes a lot, edge is harder than should be for 1095, edge doesn’t bend. In most uses it’s probably fine, but they market them as extreme hard use and I just disagree with that considering.
Agreed. For example, the Teräväs in 80crv2 are some of the most trustworthy knives in the world (imo). But I wouldn't buy them if they weren't also sold at a fair price. In other words: Using a simple steel shouldn't be a way to increase profit margins.
@@moleb6341 80crv2 is solid. I have paid big money for it before (Winkler Knives). I’d say it’s overpriced for the material cost, but I’ve also hard used the ever loving crap out of the knife and it’s held up, and was exactly what I wanted when I bought it- the form of the knife and sheath, and the fact it was “designed and made in part by the guy who did the knives and hawks for Last of the Mohicans.” Was it worth paying another $250 over a Teravaa? Probably not from a purely functional standpont, but I love the blade for it’s cool factor to me personally cause I grew up with that movie as my fam was heavily into Muzzleloading Rendezvous. Sometimes value isn’t just price for materials. Sometimes it’s knowing the maker knows the steel very well and heat treats it like a master, sometimes it’s that the knife holds some type of other value. At the end of the day, the reality is that most of us could get by with a cheap fixed blade, but we want things that are “cool” to us, that also function. 80crv2 definitely will do it. 👍🏻
Its very important to differentiate value comparisons between production knives and custom knives. In a custom knife you pay mostly for the hours of work and the very inefficient work process. Its like paying for art vs. getting a wall painted and steel is only a small amount of total price. If you ask sombody to make a knife in a shitty steel to the same standards it has to cost about 80% of the premium steel version. 1095 to k390 is just a small jump in cost and absolutely no reason to double/triple the product price. Leaving super rare stuff aside, the jump from basic to supersteel should never be more than 50/70$. Everything else is a rip-off... But with the rest i am completely on your side. Took me long enough to see the value in supersteels for outdoor use and now i lovd them. Had to learn a different approach to sharpening (and equipment) though. Basic batoning can be done with everything from butterknife to crazy hard stuff. It makes sense to look at lateral toughness as well. A good test for apex stability is crossgrain batoning and trying to make "feathersticks" from dry sinews or bones. Love your work and im looking forward to the cruwear test... Cheers!
@@xkarlsonx I share your perspective about 90%. Curious- what do you do differently to sharpen super steels in the field? I've been using the Fallkniven DC4 and CC4 stones for years, and still I find it much simpler in using them to put a paper towel shaving edge on fine grained steels like 14C28N and basic carbons. Higher carbide stuff just takes more time and care, and to me that really closes the performance gap. Higher edge retention + more maintenance time vs lower retention and less time is pretty much a draw. The pain it can be to work out edge damage on "super steels" and the cost difference mean I still lean toward my AEB-Ls and 14C28Ns.
May be i need to try a supersteel one day because touching up or sharpen all the time is sometimes time consuming but for the rest if it makes the cut it is fine for me , hope the dogs are all doing fine with the heat have a good one my friend
Supersteels are NOT super if they're SOFT! Some production knife manufacturers get it. It's almost like they read the steel manufacturers heat treatment recommendations. The Hogue Deka in Magnacut is a great folder. 63-64 HRC. Architect knives has a full line in Magnacut (3" to 8" blades)They're all around $200 with a nice kydex or leather sheath. 62-63 HRC and are tough as hell. Extremely popular brand so a lot are out of stock right now. They use 3V, S35VN and 1095 too. All priced accordingly.
We all know basic carbon steel is not in the same league as super steels. Good thing people like us have been proving that high hardness super steel with thin geometry can be hard used. It’s wild that knife content creators or knife makers/sellers are saying that basic carbon steel at low HRC out performs high HRC super steels. There’s people watching who might not know the difference in performance. Some definitely say that just because they like it basic steels. I have no issue with any steel but it doesn’t benefit the buyer who thinks they spent their money on the best steel choice but actually got the opposite. Sorry for the rant! Haha! Take it easy Erica!👊🤣
Good video and it's not too hard to figure out those who believe the 1095 "tails". A good knife priced right for 1095 type steels are the Opinel Knives for value. The real bush craft knives are used by natives using hand forged machetes made by local people trying to make a living in the jungles of their countries.
The guys that are big on 1095 seem to always fall back on the argument: "You can always use it with a piece of flint to start a fire." I'm betting the majority have never tried to start a fire with flint and steel. In the wild, there are only a few natural materials that can take a spark to start a fire this way. The most dependable way is to carry a tin of charcloth to use as tinder. It's much easier just to carry a ferro rod, and then you can use any knife steel with a somewhat sharp spine to get sparks and start a fire with all kinds of natural materials. That being the case, might as well carry a well-made knife with one of the better steels that holds an edge and isn't prone to rust. With all the choices available out there from several makers, there's no reason to overpay for cheap materials. And by the way, Benchmade makes some great knives, but no better than some of the others, and their pricing has gotten way out of control.
Are the old steels just fine and work well if heat treated well? Absolutely. You can get more performance out of more modern steels for sure, but if you just need a knife to do a knife thing the simpler steels are fine. I see no reason for people to try and claim the older stuff is better than the new steels. I think this is either people trying to sell something or folks just dont have the money for super steels and need to not feel inadequate with what they have in their drawers already. Its a shame, the crazy steels are neat, but if all you got is some good old fasioned carbon steel or stainless steel or some really widely used budget steels, they will still cut open your boxes and what not.
Oh sorry, I couldn't have guessed that, you only look like hmm... like 28 😂, no, I was just kidding, my pretty little Erika. I'm only 20 years young, but only in my head and that won't change, I have no idea why 😉
Awesome video!! I've got a batoning video! its my figure 4 deadfall trap video. I hope you like it! Glad I subbed this channel. I could talk about knives all day!
K390 is tougher than 1095 and has far more edge retention and corrosion resistance than 1095. Speaking of ridiculous pricing and low HRC, Benchmade has a 940 in Magnacut for $270 and the PSK, in Magnacut, for $360-$400. HRC 60-62 and probably a lousy edge based on the Benchmade knives ive purchased. I would buy those if they were more reasonable with their prices and HRC. I was looking at some fixed blades in a magazine, designed by "operators." One was a 2.5" in 154CM and the other was a 3.25" in 80CRV2. $555.00 apeice. Nope.
infinite thumbs up Erica Labs metallurgy chemistry do not lie super steels done right always better than regular older steels every steel was developped to do better than the ones before this is why there are different categories of steels each category designed for type of work needed , it takes the courage of the knife makers to explain the truth in relation towards their point the reason why they are afraid to not use super steels and treat them with high hardnesses , factors of money for making them , knowledge if yes or no , afraid of customer way of usage of product if the knife maker is decent then all that matters is the papers sent with the product stating the waranty and limit of usage however a custom makers have more duty to mention how far his capability and knowledge stops at when customer has given him type of steel preferred and so is geometry and usage of knife
Nice lookig knife But I just have to ask you why does everybody seem to think they need to bash a perfectly good knife though a log? Knives are not made for batoning just because some can do it does not mean you should do it. I am 54 years old and I have been going into the woods/wilderness since ai was 6yrs old I have done search and rescue been a hunting fishing guide as well as a multible overnight horseback trail guide retired combat veteran as well as many camping trips in my time and not once ever in my life have I ever had to take ny knife and baton a piece of wood to get a fire started or keep a fire going. The only tool that has ever really been designed to be batoned through wood is a Froe. I will never understand why this is a thing so many people have bought into the marketing B.S. about so called bushcraft knves that can split wood. you know as well as I do that knives are heat treated different the an axe or a hatchet as well as different metals are used. I have always said and been taught use the right tool for the job and a knife is not the right tool to split wood with a axe or a hatchet is that tool. You made a comment in your last video about we live in 2024 there is no reason you wold not carry a knife sharpener in this day and age instead of thinking you are goin gto pick up a stone out of a river and sharpen your knife. Well the same goes for using an axe or hatchet over your knife to split wood for your fire. And with all the options of compact camp axes these days this should be a no brainer. really enjoy your channel and that is my 2 cents for what ever it might be worth. As far as blade steels I really like them all and do not have a preference if it holds a good edge and does the job then I am good.
@@BravoBassin because you use an axe to process pieces of wood down. Then you use a knife to further break it down to kindling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You are correct. I’ve never had to use a knife that way either. You can but not needed. That’s why people end up spending a butt load on a knife because they want to use for stuff like this but if they used the right tool for the job it would be an issue. I spent time in the Marine Corp. didn’t need half this stuff
@@ericasedc So your trying to tell me you cannot make kindling with an axe or hatchet? really? I guess then woodsman, bushcraft and survival skills have dropped sharply these days. I mean use your knife to make some shavings a few feather sticks but you can surely make kindling with an axe or hatchet. I know I can. No offense but I will stand by what I said I mean how far down do you need to break down a piece of wood to start a fire? and even then I could still do it with an axe or hatchet. I think people have been sold on this lie for way to long and now they think it is the end all be all way they have to do things. But hey what do I know I have only spent my whole life in the wilderness in some of the most remote places in are country and as I said I have never batoned a piece of wood with a knife to start a fire. But hey if it is your thing then by all means bash away young lady there your blades and you can do what you want with them. Just asking questions and giving my thoughts on it which don't count for much. I know it is an un popular thing to say to not baton with a knife in this day and age but any knife maker worth his salt will tell you the same thing sure you can do it but you probably should not do it becasue that is what they make axes and hatchets for lol! Anyway I do enjoy yor channel and I am glad to see a younger person like you with such a great interest in blades and taking up the mantel to get other people exited about knives and you have some great knowledge in your head as well so I do appreciate that and agree with you on a lot of things as well. Just maybe not the batoning thing lol!
In my experience, only steels with low hardness or bad heat treatment are extremely annoying to sharpen, because you just can't get rid of the burr. Otherwise, any steel, even the toughest super steels like Maxamet or 15V, can be sharpened without any problem using diamond abrasives.
Erica, if carrying a carbon steel fixed blade in a leather sheath on a camping trip would it be be silly to consider saturating the inside of the sheath leather with a light clear oil (like oils used on trumpet valves) so that the blade maintains a light coating to resist corrosion? Of course this would be in addition to normal field care. Thanks!
The Bushcraft community has become a caricature of itself. Batoning is kind of case in point. It was never meant to be a primary means of processing wood and wasn't meant to be done all the time. It's just a little trick to keep in the back pocket for the rare situations when it is very wet and you have limited tools and no access to dry tinder. This is why makers moved to chunky-ass blade stocks and grinds and soft axe-like tempers. Because all the backyard wannabes think that they need to be able to bash a knife through 8" seasoned oak rounds, and think that a knife is shitty if it can't survive all the Joe X testing. Jeff Randall of Esee has even admitted as much in some forum posts. These tank knives are just stupid and completely inefficient cutting tools. At this point, the industry is catering to 80% larpers, Rambo cosplayers, and collectors who probably will never do a serious outing. That said, I think you might come to better understand why some people value simple carbon steels and non "super steels" if you did some multi-night outings in the woods even semi-regularly. They just *are* easier to live with sometimes, and edge retention doesn't matter as much if most of what you do is tasks like carving and food prep that aren't really highly abrasive. Any decently treated steel can hold a working edge for a good while to that work. It's not a reason for anyone to write off super steels for outdoor use though. Again, some are great for that and some are terrible. But aside from the extreme ends of the spectrum, it's just pros and cons to weigh like anything else. I'll also say that I think super steel pricing gets inflated way more than basic carbons, because marketing. There will be *some* price increase if it's a steel that's harder to work with and chews up belts, but I get very cynical if I see much more than a $40 price difference between such steels and more basic carbons (unless we're talking the extreme wear resistant comps). End of the day, I can't *really* say if it's justified or not, but I can decide if I want to open my wallet or not.
@@ericasedcyep, as I said last time, I do agree that Magnacut is a very solid one. Personally I still do love me some 14C28N/AEB-L because they're just a little easier to take out damage and to get scary sharp, but that's my observation and preference. Magnacut is great, but in practical use I haven't found the advantages to be ridiculously noticeable enough to ditch my tried-and-true blades. Maybe another interesting thing to do for the channel would be to have a maker send you two of the same knives in two different "mystery steels." Try them out and make your observations, and then have them tell you what was what after the fact. Only way to tell for sure if you have a "super steel bias" or if you're really noticing a marked improvement. I'd wager that most people would not tell a difference in a blind test between AEB-L and Magnacut.
If batoning was intended to be a primary means of processing wood or not is a moot point. Primary means in a survival situation or not its still smart to get out and practice the skill and be able to preform it when needed. AKA getting out and bashing on a knife to know how it feels and what it can handle. Beyond a survival aspect batoning is usually a much safer way to process wood than an axe or hatchet for inexperienced individuals. If a knife is the tool and batoning the method someone prefers to use to process wood who are you to tell someone batoning isn't an acceptable way to do so? Some crazy gatekeeping to processing wood you're attempting here. Just because you might prefer simple carbon steels doesn't mean anyone else has to. To honestly try to argue a simple carbon over something like Magnacut is just disingenuous, sure you can have youre preference but to act like it wont do better for most people is just denying the truth. Everything about your comment is just condescending nonsense.
Great video, I appreciate the views that you have and the fact that you not only talk the talk, you walk the walk. Thanks for sharing and God Bless.
Blessings Stan!🎉
Some makers are charging 4/5/600 dollars for a piece of 1095 worth about 3 bucks. But on the other hand... People are buying it. Not using your brain has a price, a consequence. I appreciate your message, and everything you're doin! ✌🏼
@@jimbusmaximus4624 cheers man!
I love k390 man. Thanks for the tip in your vids because it’s an amazing steel. I never knew. Great looking knife. Orange liners look good 👍🏼
I will be posting the actual full testing of it- but this was just to make a point! Thanks so much for watching🎉
Erica, Thanks again for bringin more “knowledgeable” things to light .. I don’t think u will ever cure the “stupidity disease” BUT what ur doin IS making a DIFFERENCE. Love to u and the pups. 💜😈✌🏼
Thank you so much!!!❤
Great video. Certain companies or makers are avoiding super steels because they don’t want to spend the time and the money to learn how to implement them. Eventually they either change or be relegated to only having a “cult” following
Yes that is truly it!
Where you'll notice less toughness + easier chipping of something like k390 is going to be in scooping cuts I believe...anything that is putting a lot of lateral stress on the apex. I'm not comparing it to 1095 as that's a steel I've never even used.
@@ShoahBiz We will see!
K390 is one of the blade steels I want to add to my collection. I really appreciate all your content, like the new leather pattern slip thanks.
@@timtitus2532 I think you would LOVE IT!!!!!
@@ericasedc well I definitely love the one I've already purchased from you, I'll have to go buy me another slip joint so I have an excuse to buy another slip. 😉
@@timtitus2532 haha please do!🥰🤣
I don't understand how anyone could hate what your doing.........your just trying to spread knowledge. Oh-- sorry I forgot. That scares the hell outta the brain dead masses lol.........all jokes aside I found your channel and just started watching because you seemed bright and squared away. Carry on, please.
@@seanbrando_7456 welcome!!!!!
I've had my eye on that knife! I love k390! Gotta keep saving! Hopefully I can afford one sometime
@@Whiteys_knife_obsession you need one!!!
Thanks for sharing all your knife knowledge. I always look forward to watching your videos.
@@codylayman199 thank YOU for watching!
The most important attribute for knife steel in my view is the ability to go thru a full day of work with the knife remaining sharp enough so it doesnt become dangerous. I run my own cut testing system so that all knives go thru the same procedure Toughness just happens to be the last thing i actually test for. Id have to double check my logs but i do believe spydercos k390 matched Steve Callaris cpm 154 in edge retention and toughness. I know his 4V outcut that k390 in the testing ive done so far.
@@steeltoez8345 yes. Steve makes every steel great again🥰🤣
You're absolutely right Erica! And don't start me out on the craizines of handle SCALES!!! All one needs is a durable handle and scales, the range of scales material to justify high prices is absolutely insane!!!
Oh yes. Yes it is!!!!
But we love us some micarta. G10 is OK but micarta just sings to me
Many of the new steels are fantastic! You mentioned some of my favorites. Cruwear, Magnacut, K390, M4, AEBL done right is also really good. I don't need the extra rust resistance, so my pick for a fixed blade would be either K390 or Cruwear. I love K390 with a toothy edge! With that said, I am perfectly happy with a simple carbon steel on a camping trip. Wood is not that abrasive and the knife will stay sharp a long time. However do a cut test on something abrasive like cardboard and the difference is night and day!
@@LastChanceKnives thanks for tuning in K!!!
Great testing.. I enjoy the even way you tackle these videos.
Love seeing yas here.. seems like its been a while since you've shown up on My start page.
@@thomastsunami3422 hey man! So glad you enjoyed the video!
Another good video, Lil Homie. I like that AEB knife. That’s a bigger boy than you normally use. These folks ripping folks off are mad you are telling on them. Those type of people won’t last.
It’s bigger than I expected which is also what she said
@@ericasedc your mom will never be the same. 🙊🙈😇
Very well said and reasonable 👍
@@jusme8060 thanks for the support man
You like so small holding that Adventure sworn, lol. I have a cruwear splinter at 64.5 HRC. Once I get it we will see what it can do. That Slater right there is badass 👊
Hey thanks James!
Marketing is full of psychologists and spin doctors so the fact that there is any truth in advertising is amazing in itself. Many will selectively limit their research until the funnel leads them to their own reality. Sometimes you have to realize it is time to flush.
Very true!!!
“We don’t agree on a lot of things”
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I think the only thing we don’t agree on is people’s happiness!
But that’s ok, different people can have different opinions. It’s what makes life exciting!
So, here’s a fun fact about batoning! Baton has nothing to do with the edge but more so toughness. If you’ll notice, the edge only touches the material your batoning once, in most cases! unless you baton into a knot! It took me forever to figure that out.
Out of curiosity, who is saying exactly that 1095 is better than any modern day CPM steel?
@@Primitivebearknives I want everyone to be happy. If lying and making pretend science up is part of your happiness- that is what I don’t support. If you think all makers can do “what makes them happy” and it’s at the detriment to the customer base, that’s part of the problem. I won’t be blasting the referrals here in the comments- however I can send you screen shots and links via DM on Instagram if you wish.
Wood is alot harder on steel tools than we give it credit for tbh, though it depends alot on species and grain. Some species like bamboo is straight up abrasive even, especially if you go across the grain.
@@kvernesdotten yes. I just have to say it every single time because if I don’t- the same person comments saying “wood isn’t abrasive you proved nothing.” So I’m like a robot now haha
@@kvernesdotten knots are certainly a bitch and can chip out even the strongest of steels. Most people who actually know what they're doing out in the woods are not carving much beyond some soft greenwood and not batoning seasoned oak, though.
Sod busters usually have a great heat treatment, case is really serious about their tempering. The two x’s are stamps from q.c. From them checking after the two thermal cycles. For cheap stainless steel I think case does great.
Thanks for watching!!!
@@ericasedc you got it!
I have a custom Dulo knife in k390, 3mm stock, full convex, 65hrc. Slicy as hell but I baton the shit out of it and it performs like a champ. Never chipped yet.
Good heat treat counts for a lot imo. Just look at Top's 1095 vs xxxxx's 1095.
I love hearing that!!!!
Awesome Video!! Love the content as usual!
@@chrisreuther4546 you ROCK man
Love the fixed blade videos. One of my favorite Knives ever is the top wild pig hunter in 1095, but your channel got me into super steals. Will probably die starving and broke, but I’ll have an $800 knife with me somewhere. Love the channel. 4:31
@@Chris-sm6xu THE CHANNEL LOVES YOU!
Still not that into fixed blades, however i clicked at the video anyways, because your wonderfull and i haven't watched a knife video for a while now(:
Am now at 9minuttes, maybe i'll watch the rest tomorrow, getting late overe here in Norway, and i need to sleep😴
Hope all is good with you, take care
It’s so great to see you!!❤
Batoning K390 at 64.5 HRC and 9 thou BTE Lets Gooooo!!!! I love it. Haha.👊🤣🤘
@@WhatsthePOINT_EDC the full video *should* be up hopefully tomorrow!!!
I absolutely hated letting my first K390 go lol. I used it to make the sheath and cut boxes all weekend before I gave it to customer(friend) and I showed it over weekend at an art fest, and everyone loved it. Serious investment in sand paper lol, at 65 hrc this first batch is not fun to finish bevels. I'll be charging extra for polished forsure. I cant wait to make my own, or just claim one of em. Next two got handles today!!!
That’s so exciting!!!!! Awesome work!
13:52 "We can Make Knives Great Again" I know your channel is miles away from anything political, but I just laughed when I heard you say this...uh...campaign slogan 😅😂 Peace Sister E.
@@MitchBollig thanks!!!🥰🤣
I like carbon steels. I know what to expect from them. I’ve been thinking about it quite a bit since the last video you posted. I don’t agree that 1095 or 80crv2 is necessarily inferior because it has never failed me and takes a wicked edge quickly without microbevelling, but I do agree that the pricepoint for those knives is too high for material and machining cost. TOPS Knives for starters not only sells 1095 for ludicrous prices but also can’t heat treat it worth a damn. ESEE is a decent overall package, but I never liked their 1095 as much as 1095CV from KaBar. I have had s35vn break on me before and it put a bad taste in my mouth for “new steel” reliability.
I have a varied amount of steels in my collection and I like the harder steels for certain size ranges and applications. I do trust 1095 that’s well heat treated over some newer steels that the heat treatment is still more in the experimental stages for certain companies. Especially when I go on a hike/camp a few miles in, I’m going to lean towards what I trust. At the end of the day the form of the knife and the quality of heat treatment will win out for me over just the steel choice. I am considering a White River knives in Magnacut to try the steel from a maker that is supposedly “doing it right”
@@GhostManCutlery I really appreciate you sharing both sides to this. This is what we need, balance and realism!
Interesting you say that a Tops can't heat treat but I've had the opposite experience Tops has been consitantly harder than esse also becker and kabar 1095cv is decent hardness but brittle. Something happening in the tempering stage . But neways to each their own hope you have a good day
@@Danielstanius For some reason TOPS insists on differential heat treating their 1095, which is just a bad idea for actual longevity. You’ll get a nice hard edge that holds longer but very unstable blades due to that. Soft spines with harder than they should be edges = micro cracks that get bigger if it does fail. Blade bends, spine is soft and flexes a lot, edge is harder than should be for 1095, edge doesn’t bend. In most uses it’s probably fine, but they market them as extreme hard use and I just disagree with that considering.
Agreed. For example, the Teräväs in 80crv2 are some of the most trustworthy knives in the world (imo). But I wouldn't buy them if they weren't also sold at a fair price. In other words: Using a simple steel shouldn't be a way to increase profit margins.
@@moleb6341 80crv2 is solid.
I have paid big money for it before (Winkler Knives). I’d say it’s overpriced for the material cost, but I’ve also hard used the ever loving crap out of the knife and it’s held up, and was exactly what I wanted when I bought it- the form of the knife and sheath, and the fact it was “designed and made in part by the guy who did the knives and hawks for Last of the Mohicans.” Was it worth paying another $250 over a Teravaa? Probably not from a purely functional standpont, but I love the blade for it’s cool factor to me personally cause I grew up with that movie as my fam was heavily into Muzzleloading Rendezvous. Sometimes value isn’t just price for materials. Sometimes it’s knowing the maker knows the steel very well and heat treats it like a master, sometimes it’s that the knife holds some type of other value. At the end of the day, the reality is that most of us could get by with a cheap fixed blade, but we want things that are “cool” to us, that also function. 80crv2 definitely will do it. 👍🏻
Its very important to differentiate value comparisons between production knives and custom knives. In a custom knife you pay mostly for the hours of work and the very inefficient work process. Its like paying for art vs. getting a wall painted and steel is only a small amount of total price. If you ask sombody to make a knife in a shitty steel to the same standards it has to cost about 80% of the premium steel version. 1095 to k390 is just a small jump in cost and absolutely no reason to double/triple the product price. Leaving super rare stuff aside, the jump from basic to supersteel should never be more than 50/70$. Everything else is a rip-off...
But with the rest i am completely on your side. Took me long enough to see the value in supersteels for outdoor use and now i lovd them. Had to learn a different approach to sharpening (and equipment) though.
Basic batoning can be done with everything from butterknife to crazy hard stuff. It makes sense to look at lateral toughness as well. A good test for apex stability is crossgrain batoning and trying to make "feathersticks" from dry sinews or bones.
Love your work and im looking forward to the cruwear test... Cheers!
Thanks so much for watching!!!🎉
@@xkarlsonx I share your perspective about 90%. Curious- what do you do differently to sharpen super steels in the field? I've been using the Fallkniven DC4 and CC4 stones for years, and still I find it much simpler in using them to put a paper towel shaving edge on fine grained steels like 14C28N and basic carbons. Higher carbide stuff just takes more time and care, and to me that really closes the performance gap. Higher edge retention + more maintenance time vs lower retention and less time is pretty much a draw. The pain it can be to work out edge damage on "super steels" and the cost difference mean I still lean toward my AEB-Ls and 14C28Ns.
Good evening, good to see you again. Keep your chin up. See ya again so Ms E.🇺🇲🌲🔥🔪
Great to see you my brother!!!❤
Erica just out here shiddin all over the good ol boys....
@@paullmight42 no I don’t want to shit on them. I’m just tired of them like continuously throwing shade at us and making things up.
May be i need to try a supersteel one day because touching up or sharpen all the time is sometimes time consuming but for the rest if it makes the cut it is fine for me , hope the dogs are all doing fine with the heat have a good one my friend
@@snowtiger44 it will change your knifelife!🥰🤣
Supersteels are NOT super if they're SOFT! Some production knife manufacturers get it. It's almost like they read the steel manufacturers heat treatment recommendations.
The Hogue Deka in Magnacut is a great folder. 63-64 HRC.
Architect knives has a full line in Magnacut (3" to 8" blades)They're all around $200 with a nice kydex or leather sheath. 62-63 HRC and are tough as hell. Extremely popular brand so a lot are out of stock right now.
They use 3V, S35VN and 1095 too. All priced accordingly.
Awesome!!!
Awesome video! Have a great night, E!🤟
You too brother!
We all know basic carbon steel is not in the same league as super steels. Good thing people like us have been proving that high hardness super steel with thin geometry can be hard used.
It’s wild that knife content creators or knife makers/sellers are saying that basic carbon steel at low HRC out performs high HRC super steels. There’s people watching who might not know the difference in performance. Some definitely say that just because they like it basic steels.
I have no issue with any steel but it doesn’t benefit the buyer who thinks they spent their money on the best steel choice but actually got the opposite.
Sorry for the rant! Haha! Take it easy Erica!👊🤣
Yes man! You know the deal! LOVE the post about grain structure you made. Super informative!!! 🎉
@@ericasedc oh yea! Thanks.👊
Good video and it's not too hard to figure out those who believe the 1095 "tails".
A good knife priced right for 1095 type steels are the Opinel Knives for value.
The real bush craft knives are used by natives using hand forged machetes made by local people trying to make a living in the jungles of their countries.
Hey Mike!!! Always great to see you here!
The guys that are big on 1095 seem to always fall back on the argument: "You can always use it with a piece of flint to start a fire." I'm betting the majority have never tried to start a fire with flint and steel. In the wild, there are only a few natural materials that can take a spark to start a fire this way. The most dependable way is to carry a tin of charcloth to use as tinder. It's much easier just to carry a ferro rod, and then you can use any knife steel with a somewhat sharp spine to get sparks and start a fire with all kinds of natural materials. That being the case, might as well carry a well-made knife with one of the better steels that holds an edge and isn't prone to rust. With all the choices available out there from several makers, there's no reason to overpay for cheap materials. And by the way, Benchmade makes some great knives, but no better than some of the others, and their pricing has gotten way out of control.
@@gregblake2764 Benchmade is the WORST WITH PRICING
the gec resale knives pricing on eBay are ridicules
@@timjk32 that’s why I have never bought one from there or in general other than a $100 Bullnose from Super Steel Steve. They were all gifted to me.
@@ericasedc your lucky lol
Are the old steels just fine and work well if heat treated well? Absolutely. You can get more performance out of more modern steels for sure, but if you just need a knife to do a knife thing the simpler steels are fine. I see no reason for people to try and claim the older stuff is better than the new steels. I think this is either people trying to sell something or folks just dont have the money for super steels and need to not feel inadequate with what they have in their drawers already. Its a shame, the crazy steels are neat, but if all you got is some good old fasioned carbon steel or stainless steel or some really widely used budget steels, they will still cut open your boxes and what not.
Thanks for watching!
good one good one good one yeah truth hurts but lies hurt even more later
True!
My Mora Companion has also no problem with batonning 😂
@@noname-wt3zw yay!!!! The kids LOVE their Moras!
I love my Mora and yes I could be your grandfather my little Erika, haha
@@noname-wt3zw I’m almost 30!
Oh sorry, I couldn't have guessed that, you only look like hmm... like 28 😂, no, I was just kidding, my pretty little Erika.
I'm only 20 years young, but only in my head and that won't change, I have no idea why 😉
Awesome video!! I've got a batoning video! its my figure 4 deadfall trap video. I hope you like it! Glad I subbed this channel. I could talk about knives all day!
@@MontesMilesSLV I could too!!!!!
I'm in the stubborn group,I'm 60+ and I like 1095. And no gen z lady can change my mind.😅
@@carolburton4711 thanks for continuously sharing your thought!
K390 is tougher than 1095 and has far more edge retention and corrosion resistance than 1095. Speaking of ridiculous pricing and low HRC, Benchmade has a 940 in Magnacut for $270 and the PSK, in Magnacut, for $360-$400. HRC 60-62 and probably a lousy edge based on the Benchmade knives ive purchased. I would buy those if they were more reasonable with their prices and HRC.
I was looking at some fixed blades in a magazine, designed by "operators." One was a 2.5" in 154CM and the other was a 3.25" in 80CRV2. $555.00 apeice. Nope.
@@rognuald9007 can’t stand Benchmade
@@ericasedcif I’m gonna spend that much cash on a folder I will get a Chris Reeves instead.
@@joelamaro4525 nice!!!
infinite thumbs up Erica Labs metallurgy chemistry do not lie super steels done right always better than regular older steels every steel was developped to do better than the ones before this is why there are different categories of steels each category designed for type of work needed , it takes the courage of the knife makers to explain the truth in relation towards their point the reason why they are afraid to not use super steels and treat them with high hardnesses , factors of money for making them , knowledge if yes or no , afraid of customer way of usage of product if the knife maker is decent then all that matters is the papers sent with the product stating the waranty and limit of usage however a custom makers have more duty to mention how far his capability and knowledge stops at when customer has given him type of steel preferred and so is geometry and usage of knife
Truth!!!!
Wait you put eyelashes on!?
Mascara 🤣otherwise it looks like I have none!!!! I just call it my eye lashes 🤣
Well said but I am not buying a $300 knife anyway
Love you
Eyelashes lol
@@terrillschneider3778 love you T!!!!!
Nice lookig knife But I just have to ask you why does everybody seem to think they need to bash a perfectly good knife though a log?
Knives are not made for batoning just because some can do it does not mean you should do it.
I am 54 years old and I have been going into the woods/wilderness since ai was 6yrs old I have done search and rescue been a hunting fishing guide as well as a multible overnight horseback trail guide retired combat veteran as well as many camping trips in my time and not once ever in my life have I ever had to take ny knife and baton a piece of wood to get a fire started or keep a fire going.
The only tool that has ever really been designed to be batoned through wood is a Froe.
I will never understand why this is a thing so many people have bought into the marketing B.S. about so called bushcraft knves that can split wood.
you know as well as I do that knives are heat treated different the an axe or a hatchet as well as different metals are used.
I have always said and been taught use the right tool for the job and a knife is not the right tool to split wood with a axe or a hatchet is that tool.
You made a comment in your last video about we live in 2024 there is no reason you wold not carry a knife sharpener in this day and age instead of thinking you are goin gto pick up a stone out of a river and sharpen your knife.
Well the same goes for using an axe or hatchet over your knife to split wood for your fire.
And with all the options of compact camp axes these days this should be a no brainer.
really enjoy your channel and that is my 2 cents for what ever it might be worth.
As far as blade steels I really like them all and do not have a preference if it holds a good edge and does the job then I am good.
@@BravoBassin because you use an axe to process pieces of wood down. Then you use a knife to further break it down to kindling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You are correct. I’ve never had to use a knife that way either. You can but not needed. That’s why people end up spending a butt load on a knife because they want to use for stuff like this but if they used the right tool for the job it would be an issue. I spent time in the Marine Corp. didn’t need half this stuff
@@johnnyr701 thanks for sharing your experience!
@@ericasedc So your trying to tell me you cannot make kindling with an axe or hatchet? really?
I guess then woodsman, bushcraft and survival skills have dropped sharply these days.
I mean use your knife to make some shavings a few feather sticks but you can surely make kindling with an axe or hatchet.
I know I can.
No offense but I will stand by what I said I mean how far down do you need to break down a piece of wood to start a fire?
and even then I could still do it with an axe or hatchet.
I think people have been sold on this lie for way to long and now they think it is the end all be all way they have to do things.
But hey what do I know I have only spent my whole life in the wilderness in some of the most remote places in are country and as I said I have never batoned a piece of wood with a knife to start a fire.
But hey if it is your thing then by all means bash away young lady there your blades and you can do what you want with them.
Just asking questions and giving my thoughts on it which don't count for much.
I know it is an un popular thing to say to not baton with a knife in this day and age but any knife maker worth his salt will tell you the same thing sure you can do it but you probably should not do it becasue that is what they make axes and hatchets for lol!
Anyway I do enjoy yor channel and I am glad to see a younger person like you with such a great interest in blades and taking up the mantel to get other people exited about knives and you have some great knowledge in your head as well so I do appreciate that and agree with you on a lot of things as well.
Just maybe not the batoning thing lol!
@@BravoBassin I never said you can’t. I said you use the axe to process- then the knife to make kindling. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
The 52100 comment… 😂
@@chrisreuther4546 😊iykyk
The only steel i have a really hard time sharpening on diamond is 20cv/m390 but never had an issue with k390
Those can be finicky for some people I’ve heard. K390 is SO EASY to touch up and sharpen!
In my experience, only steels with low hardness or bad heat treatment are extremely annoying to sharpen, because you just can't get rid of the burr. Otherwise, any steel, even the toughest super steels like Maxamet or 15V, can be sharpened without any problem using diamond abrasives.
@@achimgeist5185 YES THIS!!!!!!! YOU GET IT
Erica,
if carrying a carbon steel fixed blade in a leather sheath on a camping trip would it be be silly to consider saturating the inside of the sheath leather with a light clear oil (like oils used on trumpet valves) so that the blade maintains a light coating to resist corrosion?
Of course this would be in addition to normal field care.
Thanks!
I wouldn’t. Just keep it dry!
The Bushcraft community has become a caricature of itself. Batoning is kind of case in point. It was never meant to be a primary means of processing wood and wasn't meant to be done all the time. It's just a little trick to keep in the back pocket for the rare situations when it is very wet and you have limited tools and no access to dry tinder. This is why makers moved to chunky-ass blade stocks and grinds and soft axe-like tempers. Because all the backyard wannabes think that they need to be able to bash a knife through 8" seasoned oak rounds, and think that a knife is shitty if it can't survive all the Joe X testing. Jeff Randall of Esee has even admitted as much in some forum posts. These tank knives are just stupid and completely inefficient cutting tools. At this point, the industry is catering to 80% larpers, Rambo cosplayers, and collectors who probably will never do a serious outing.
That said, I think you might come to better understand why some people value simple carbon steels and non "super steels" if you did some multi-night outings in the woods even semi-regularly. They just *are* easier to live with sometimes, and edge retention doesn't matter as much if most of what you do is tasks like carving and food prep that aren't really highly abrasive. Any decently treated steel can hold a working edge for a good while to that work. It's not a reason for anyone to write off super steels for outdoor use though. Again, some are great for that and some are terrible. But aside from the extreme ends of the spectrum, it's just pros and cons to weigh like anything else. I'll also say that I think super steel pricing gets inflated way more than basic carbons, because marketing. There will be *some* price increase if it's a steel that's harder to work with and chews up belts, but I get very cynical if I see much more than a $40 price difference between such steels and more basic carbons (unless we're talking the extreme wear resistant comps). End of the day, I can't *really* say if it's justified or not, but I can decide if I want to open my wallet or not.
I already have- and Magnacut is for instance better than any of them. Thanks for watching!🎉
@@ericasedcyep, as I said last time, I do agree that Magnacut is a very solid one. Personally I still do love me some 14C28N/AEB-L because they're just a little easier to take out damage and to get scary sharp, but that's my observation and preference. Magnacut is great, but in practical use I haven't found the advantages to be ridiculously noticeable enough to ditch my tried-and-true blades.
Maybe another interesting thing to do for the channel would be to have a maker send you two of the same knives in two different "mystery steels." Try them out and make your observations, and then have them tell you what was what after the fact. Only way to tell for sure if you have a "super steel bias" or if you're really noticing a marked improvement. I'd wager that most people would not tell a difference in a blind test between AEB-L and Magnacut.
If batoning was intended to be a primary means of processing wood or not is a moot point. Primary means in a survival situation or not its still smart to get out and practice the skill and be able to preform it when needed. AKA getting out and bashing on a knife to know how it feels and what it can handle. Beyond a survival aspect batoning is usually a much safer way to process wood than an axe or hatchet for inexperienced individuals. If a knife is the tool and batoning the method someone prefers to use to process wood who are you to tell someone batoning isn't an acceptable way to do so? Some crazy gatekeeping to processing wood you're attempting here. Just because you might prefer simple carbon steels doesn't mean anyone else has to. To honestly try to argue a simple carbon over something like Magnacut is just disingenuous, sure you can have youre preference but to act like it wont do better for most people is just denying the truth. Everything about your comment is just condescending nonsense.
@@zdbrownie yeah who ever that guy is- he’s… not really educated or experienced it seems. Talks a lot saying nothing, you know?
@@zdbrownie yeah who ever that guy is- he’s… not really educated or experienced it seems. Talks a lot saying nothing, you know?