Pressure treated should still be placed on top of gravel and sides so dirt is not touching to allow water to drain away and wood to dry. Any wood is going to rot if it’s consistently wet. Good idea to also place drainage across the side of water shed and down the sides to help carry water away
You only need to go 2' bigger on both dimensions then your shed size for a base. I.E. 8x10 shed 10x12 pad. I get some need more space, but it's not needed if you don't.
Wow, wish I knew this earlier thank you. My shed was installed 10 years ago with a 10-year warranty for the structure. He didn't do any of that framing you did. All he did was dig out level it & pack the stones. Now it's sinking towards front gotta raise it up somehow before the water damage & insects occur.
Your shed looks great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I built an 8x10 shed for my kids in my backyard earlier this year using plans I got from *WoodBlueprints. Com* Clear directions and an accurate materials list...It was great for a novice builder like myself!
Doing the extra work would not really help. Just move the shed off the pad, add more rock and compact with a plate compactor rental. Sounds like normal settling.
@@boots7859 The problem is how do i lift the shed off the stone? I need specialized equipment. My size 12 x 24 ? I could hire the same company gonna cost dearly.
@@HB-yq8gy ever thought about using a couple of 3 or 4 ton car jacks dig down enough so the jack will fit underneath then slide some treated Timber underneath to support ?
@@benpatfield5471 Yes i did think about jacking shed up. but it appears to be about 4 inches grade in the back. The front roll-up door at grade. My wife said i worry too much about it no evidence of any insect damage yet & no water infiltrating.
Oh... Dang! You had me right up until about 2:38 in this video when you tossed in a Bobcat tractor/grader/front end loader thing! I'm in Las Vegas. Building a shed. we don't have nice topsoil or whatever it is that you East Coast / central America have for ground soil / dirt! We have gravel, rocks, sand, nasty stuff that you need a pick-axe to dig! I'm 74 years old, and i work about 2 hours a day on my shed foundation. (Then I need a rest!) So... I have dug enough to place some foundation bricks, and using a long steel (formerly garage door opener) to check for level. Then.... I built the steel foundation structure from Duramax sheds, and have leveled it up using fill dirt under the framework to match the already level bricks. this has taken me about 3 months! I not so sure a BobCat tractor would have done us any good out here in Las Vegas!
I'm going to show you exactly how to start building wooden sheds and woodwork projects easily, so that you're fully up and running, creating remarkable outdoor garden sheds and woodwork projects for your loved ones within days from now. Click here ==> *WoodBlueprints. Com*
@@kickpublishing Wow! I got a reply from the PRESIDENT of the INTERNET! Okay... I'm impressed! :) And yes, I DO need a concrete base! And... that's exactly what I finally did! After 3 months of digging, filling, setting up bricks, leveling them, building the Durmax steel foundation framework.... I gave up! And, I called three different concrete contractors for bids. A 12' X 14' for one shed, and another 10' X 13' for the other shed. The bid prices were really wacky! Anywhere from $1600 to $2900! I took the nice lady's bid (she wore a mask, Covid-19, ya know) for $1700 and she tossed in $200 more for a new front sidewalk to my front door (others wanted $900 for just that!). Got all the concrete pads poured. Excellent. Got the front sidewalk.. Looks great. And now... I received the two sheds, and at 74 years old, I BUILT THEM BOTH! Duramax and a Suncast Tremont shed! They both turned out great! Although, with the Corona virus pandemic, both arrived much later than expected. And the Suncast shed came with horribly damaged boxes (forklift stabbed the boxes and damaged many panels inside). But, we got all that resolved and replacement panels arrived and i got both sheds built on the concrete slabs.... in 110 degree to 115 degree heat here in Las Vegas! I'd post photos, but... you tube doesn't have a function for that!
If you dont have the big machinery a smaller hand held tiller / cultivator will remove the sod for you without all of the hard work. Digging and removing soil is backbreaking work as it is - but removing sod by hand, have mercy.
I’m sorry but I’ve installed portable barns for many years now and coming from someone who knows DO NOT use gravel pads without cement block. I’ve seen constant settling, doors out of square, and water damage. Gravel shifts especially under portable barns with garage doors that customers use for large mowers and vehicles that go in and out causing building movement. Water damage can happen from this “frame around gravel” technique that basically tubs water in certain situations. 1) purchase a brand barn that offers engineer stamped drawings. 2) select a level dry area in your yard. 3) follow the engineer drawings blocking chart and put the barn on the recommended foundation of blocks. This will allow air flow under barn, easier settling adjustments with shims/wedges, and keep all wood off the ground for longevity.
I was kinda thinking the same thing and for trouble they went to , u cud nearly have put down a full concrete base, esp with the price of timber these days.
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
I am fixing to put a shed on one side of my home. It is going to be fairly close to the house building. With clay soil, and being that close to the building drainage is a big concern. I did not see any drainage other than the water percolating into the soil. My solution, and please feel free to comment / advise, is to use concrete blocks on the slope side .... sort of a retaining wall, and use drainage pipes five feet, so water can leave the area quickly just like surface drain.... This approach seems practical, but I have never really done it before...... your comments, critique, advise is much appreciated. Thanks
I just excavate an area...bring in grave and leve up railroad ties. They are pretreated to last 100 years on top of gravel...no issues in 10 years so far.
Hi James. I’m close to laying my greenhouse frame on top of my pressure treated wood. I’ve read that you should lay a protective material in between the two to prevent corrosion of the metal frame. Have you experienced any deterioration of your frame since installing? Thanks
1. Railroad ties are treated with creosote. Creosote is a tar-based substance that is generally non-corrosive. A common form of creosote - coal tar creosote - presents health hazards and is carcenogenic. However, studies show no inreased risk of cancer death to those who work producing the chemical. In other words, the government says it's bad, but... 2. Pressure treated lumber, on the other hand, is treated with copper using a sort of vacuum infusion. The copper used in the treatment interacts chemically with other metals (particularly aluminum) and causes oxidation. The oxidation slowly destroys fasteners and siding. So... creosote is good for longevity (we've used it for thousands of years)... but the gov talks bad about potential health effects. You might want to consider that. I'd just use 'em. ...Or use Zinc or Stainless steel fasteners if dealing with pressure treated; it minimizes the risk of corrosion. I'd make sure it wasn't sided with metal, though.
Ive never seen one tied down, and this one isn't either. It would have to be a tornado to move a shed like this empty, let alone full of stuff. I guess if that was a concern, you could put timber piles in the ground and tie into them somehow. For the added expense, you'd be better off just having a new one dropped off if anything were to happen.
Is there a rule of thumb to how much difference there is between sides that you bury the timber instead of building it up a little with stone? It looked like prior to doing your first trench to bury the timber on the side, it was within a few inches of being even with the front timber.
I was looking at the same thing. I think they only dug down the front enough to make it level with the back which was just sloped a little lower. This is a sharp looking solution. The spot I have picked out is pretty close to flat, so I man do this with just one course of 4x6 on the perimeter. 2-4" of the gravel base is enough to support and keep everything above grade.
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
Good video, thank you ! Three questions. Would it make sense to also use concrete blocks to set the shed a little higher off the ground? Then, what did you do to secure the shed from moving around once it was placed on the gravel and level? Finally, how did you know how far down to dig for the gravel?
Resting the shed on blocks only make sense if you do NOT plan on putting a lot of weight inside the shed. The blocks will create point loads and eventually settle but this is easily fixed with a floor jack since the shed is elevated. The more important point is the deck of the shed will not be able to handle as much weight if it is on blocks verses a level gravel pad. With a long level, blocks and a few bags of gravel, you can skip all the effort shown in this video but IMO you should only make a block foundation in light duty situations. Most of the time, the shed is not secured to anything. Lastly, you only need to dig the sod up for the gravel pad- any other soil dug up will be for the purpose of grading the pad.
Don't you think that was a little much gravel? You probably would of been cheaper with a cement foundation considering the amount of gravel that you used.
If You Want To Build A Reliable Shed, You Need Knowledge of Foundations, Piling, Planning and More ... So I'm giving you a comprehensive "how-to" guide on the basics of woodworking.Go here ==> *WoodBlueprints. Com*
We have multiple customers who place their sheds on both cement and gravel pads and just wanted to show an example video of how to go about building your own gravel pad.
interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out backyard storage sheds plans try *WoodBlueprints. Com* Ive heard some decent things about it and my colleague got cool success with it.
10:40 step 17, create 'swale', not a 'swell'. A swale is a drainage feature that follows the contours of a natural/manmade slope and redirects water. Its embarrassing to get caught saying a technical term wrong to a customer. We've all been there. Not a big deal, just saying.
Rated for ground contact not for burying, you'd need railroad ties for in ground use. Best practice would be on stone to level and allow for drainage as opposed to putting your footings in a French drain. Who comes up with this stuff.
Why does the pad have to be so much bigger? It seems like when this is done, it causes water to be trapped and in a heavy rain storm the water would fill up like a tub, esp gravel over clay. Wouldn't it be better to tighten up the box so you can divert any water away from underneath using flashing at the bottom???
Does it need to have double top board or can it be done with only one? I want to do it with only one, but I keep watching a lot of UA-cam videos and everybody has double
Aside from the initial expense, especially within the past two years, water can pool on concrete in places and contribute to rot from underneath. It’s also a reminder here to avoid using OSB on these structures.
@@bergiebitsSeems to me you could slightly slope the concrete pad for water drainage. Pre-constructed sheds don't have to sit perfecly level - after all, it's just a shed. 😊
@@allanh7137If you are not in the trade then BBQ :)) Anyway yeah this wood always comes in handy. I still feel it's overkill. I done mine from the cheapest one and had no issue.
"Good hard dirt"?? Dirt? Wazzat? At about 3:10 into this you tell us we need to dig down to good hard dirt. Oh yeah.. I've seen that! It comes in bags at the local Star Nursery for about $14 a bag. You use it when you want to plant flowers or things in a garden, I think. But out here in Las Vegas, we don't have DIRT! We have hard gravel, rocks, something that's light brown that looks like solidified sand and it takes a pick-ax to dig into it! Dirt is something you BUY at the store! Oh well.. you lost me when you brought in a Bobcat to dig down to the dirt in the first place. In my case, I gave up with all this digging, and eventually just contracted an ambitious cement/concrete slab installing family who came out and poured and leveled two excellent slabs for my two sheds that I built in 110 degree heat! The slabs are the best!
"And thats how i think it should be done" Nice!
Pressure treated should still be placed on top of gravel and sides so dirt is not touching to allow water to drain away and wood to dry. Any wood is going to rot if it’s consistently wet. Good idea to also place drainage across the side of water shed and down the sides to help carry water away
To bad they don't make hedge square lumber ..that would last, just as hedge posts do for more than your lifetime.
@@A.C.71 Too crooked to turn into lumber but I know what you mean, my grandfather would say a good hedge post will wear out 2 or 3 holes.
@@gw5479 thats funny. I can almost hear the way an old timer would say that.
You only need to go 2' bigger on both dimensions then your shed size for a base. I.E. 8x10 shed 10x12 pad. I get some need more space, but it's not needed if you don't.
Awesome instructions. And the peaceful music helps BIG TIME.
Nice. That's exactly how I do my bases. Just did one for a 12 x 21 Mueller DIY greenhouse.
Wow, wish I knew this earlier thank you. My shed was installed 10 years ago with a 10-year warranty for the structure. He didn't do any of that framing you did. All he did was dig out level it & pack the stones. Now it's sinking towards front gotta raise it up somehow before the water damage & insects occur.
Your shed looks great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I built an 8x10 shed for my kids in my backyard earlier this year using plans I got from *WoodBlueprints. Com* Clear directions and an accurate materials list...It was great for a novice builder like myself!
Doing the extra work would not really help. Just move the shed off the pad, add more rock and compact with a plate compactor rental. Sounds like normal settling.
@@boots7859 The problem is how do i lift the shed off the stone? I need specialized equipment. My size 12 x 24 ? I could hire the same company gonna cost dearly.
@@HB-yq8gy ever thought about using a couple of 3 or 4 ton car jacks dig down enough so the jack will fit underneath then slide some treated Timber underneath to support ?
@@benpatfield5471 Yes i did think about jacking shed up. but it appears to be about 4 inches grade in the back. The front roll-up door at grade. My wife said i worry too much about it no evidence of any insect damage yet & no water infiltrating.
A very comprehensive description on how you do it. Outstanding!
Sweet! Well done. Speaking of sweet, I hear that North Carolina is the number #1 sweet potato grower in the country.
Those were some masterful skid loader skills. Well done!
Oh... Dang! You had me right up until about 2:38 in this video when you tossed in a Bobcat tractor/grader/front end loader thing!
I'm in Las Vegas. Building a shed. we don't have nice topsoil or whatever it is that you East Coast / central America have for ground soil / dirt! We have gravel, rocks, sand, nasty stuff that you need a pick-axe to dig!
I'm 74 years old, and i work about 2 hours a day on my shed foundation. (Then I need a rest!)
So... I have dug enough to place some foundation bricks, and using a long steel (formerly garage door opener) to check for level. Then.... I built the steel foundation structure from Duramax sheds, and have leveled it up using fill dirt under the framework to match the already level bricks. this has taken me about 3 months!
I not so sure a BobCat tractor would have done us any good out here in Las Vegas!
So sorry we couldn't be more helpful for you!! It sounds like you are doing a great job, keep it up!!
I'm going to show you exactly how to start building wooden sheds and woodwork projects easily, so that you're fully up and running, creating remarkable outdoor garden sheds and woodwork projects for your loved ones within days from now. Click here ==> *WoodBlueprints. Com*
You Sir, need a concrete base.
@@kickpublishing Wow! I got a reply from the PRESIDENT of the INTERNET! Okay... I'm impressed! :) And yes, I DO need a concrete base!
And... that's exactly what I finally did! After 3 months of digging, filling, setting up bricks, leveling them, building the Durmax steel foundation framework.... I gave up! And, I called three different concrete contractors for bids. A 12' X 14' for one shed, and another 10' X 13' for the other shed. The bid prices were really wacky! Anywhere from $1600 to $2900!
I took the nice lady's bid (she wore a mask, Covid-19, ya know) for $1700 and she tossed in $200 more for a new front sidewalk to my front door (others wanted $900 for just that!).
Got all the concrete pads poured. Excellent. Got the front sidewalk.. Looks great.
And now... I received the two sheds, and at 74 years old, I BUILT THEM BOTH! Duramax and a Suncast Tremont shed! They both turned out great!
Although, with the Corona virus pandemic, both arrived much later than expected. And the Suncast shed came with horribly damaged boxes (forklift stabbed the boxes and damaged many panels inside). But, we got all that resolved and replacement panels arrived and i got both sheds built on the concrete slabs.... in 110 degree to 115 degree heat here in Las Vegas!
I'd post photos, but... you tube doesn't have a function for that!
@@danje10 GOOD FOR YOU!!!
Great content!!! Thanks for all the help!
I just built one of these 15x27x1. It was a stupid amount of work and I’d probably contract it out if I had to do it over
If you dont have the big machinery a smaller hand held tiller / cultivator will remove the sod for you without all of the hard work. Digging and removing soil is backbreaking work as it is - but removing sod by hand, have mercy.
I moved all the sod by hand for my shed (10x14) because my tiller was down at the time. It took a while!
Best American accent ever!
Can you use 2 - 2x6s attached to one another in place of a 4x6? Local Home Depot doesn’t have the ground contact PT 4x6
Hello! Yes by all means you can.
I’m sorry but I’ve installed portable barns for many years now and coming from someone who knows DO NOT use gravel pads without cement block. I’ve seen constant settling, doors out of square, and water damage. Gravel shifts especially under portable barns with garage doors that customers use for large mowers and vehicles that go in and out causing building movement. Water damage can happen from this “frame around gravel” technique that basically tubs water in certain situations.
1) purchase a brand barn that offers engineer stamped drawings.
2) select a level dry area in your yard.
3) follow the engineer drawings blocking chart and put the barn on the recommended foundation of blocks.
This will allow air flow under barn, easier settling adjustments with shims/wedges, and keep all wood off the ground for longevity.
I was kinda thinking the same thing and for trouble they went to , u cud nearly have put down a full concrete base, esp with the price of timber these days.
you got to drain the crushed stone pad with a pipe.
@@rekostarr7149 understood but that’s the least of future issues with the loose gravel pad bad idea.
Excellent craftsmanship and great video production.
I would seal those anchor bolt holes with waterproof glue to keep the water from soaking into the wood..
Can you use cinder blocks with the gravel to take up space and stabilize the loose gravel?
Love the way they only do these on nice flat yards.
This video shows how to install on a slope as well: ua-cam.com/video/WpAc64Op7MA/v-deo.html
@@jamescharles8263 thanks
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
How did you notch the 4 x 6? Don’t think a a skill saw is deep enough. Thanks.
What’s the size 3/8 lag screws? Or 1/2
I am fixing to put a shed on one side of my home. It is going to be fairly close to the house building. With clay soil, and being that close to the building drainage is a big concern. I did not see any drainage other than the water percolating into the soil. My solution, and please feel free to comment / advise, is to use concrete blocks on the slope side .... sort of a retaining wall, and use drainage pipes five feet, so water can leave the area quickly just like surface drain.... This approach seems practical, but I have never really done it before...... your comments, critique, advise is much appreciated. Thanks
What would a job like this cost? just the gravel pad only.
I'm fixing to move my shed. I wish I had casters put on it now. I have a 10. By 12 tuffshed.
I’m getting mine soon.
You mean the metal cast that goes under the shed?
Nice job, I hope your treated lumber is better than what I've used, or you'll have some deteriorated lumber in about 8 years
Outstanding job 👍
I just excavate an area...bring in grave and leve up railroad ties. They are pretreated to last 100 years on top of gravel...no issues in 10 years so far.
Hi James. I’m close to laying my greenhouse frame on top of my pressure treated wood. I’ve read that you should lay a protective material in between the two to prevent corrosion of the metal frame. Have you experienced any deterioration of your frame since installing? Thanks
Good
1. Railroad ties are treated with creosote. Creosote is a tar-based substance that is generally non-corrosive. A common form of creosote - coal tar creosote - presents health hazards and is carcenogenic. However, studies show no inreased risk of cancer death to those who work producing the chemical. In other words, the government says it's bad, but...
2. Pressure treated lumber, on the other hand, is treated with copper using a sort of vacuum infusion. The copper used in the treatment interacts chemically with other metals (particularly aluminum) and causes oxidation. The oxidation slowly destroys fasteners and siding.
So... creosote is good for longevity (we've used it for thousands of years)... but the gov talks bad about potential health effects. You might want to consider that. I'd just use 'em.
...Or use Zinc or Stainless steel fasteners if dealing with pressure treated; it minimizes the risk of corrosion. I'd make sure it wasn't sided with metal, though.
Do you secure the shed to the gravel pad so it won’t be affected by wind? If so how?
Ive never seen one tied down, and this one isn't either. It would have to be a tornado to move a shed like this empty, let alone full of stuff.
I guess if that was a concern, you could put timber piles in the ground and tie into them somehow. For the added expense, you'd be better off just having a new one dropped off if anything were to happen.
This will show you how: ua-cam.com/video/d_ScvBs0Lf4/v-deo.html&feature=share9
Is it anchored to the ground at all?
what do you call the device/machine that you moved the shed with? and where can you rent one
Shed mule
Good video
How come only 2 sides are dug into the ground while the other sides sit on top of the soil?
Will any gravel work? Looking for an option I could find at Lowes.
Hi, What 8" lag screw are you using?
Anyone build one of these? Is 4x6 instead of 4x12 (4x6+4x6) deep enough for a resin shed?
Ok this confusing as hell! Any schematics on this step by steps? How many 4x6 are you piling on top here 2 or 3?
Ok Never-mind i got it!!
Is there a rule of thumb to how much difference there is between sides that you bury the timber instead of building it up a little with stone? It looked like prior to doing your first trench to bury the timber on the side, it was within a few inches of being even with the front timber.
I was looking at the same thing. I think they only dug down the front enough to make it level with the back which was just sloped a little lower. This is a sharp looking solution. The spot I have picked out is pretty close to flat, so I man do this with just one course of 4x6 on the perimeter. 2-4" of the gravel base is enough to support and keep everything above grade.
Michael, this was just to make the front side even with the back.
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
Good video, thank you ! Three questions. Would it make sense to also use concrete blocks to set the shed a little higher off the ground? Then, what did you do to secure the shed from moving around once it was placed on the gravel and level? Finally, how did you know how far down to dig for the gravel?
Resting the shed on blocks only make sense if you do NOT plan on putting a lot of weight inside the shed. The blocks will create point loads and eventually settle but this is easily fixed with a floor jack since the shed is elevated. The more important point is the deck of the shed will not be able to handle as much weight if it is on blocks verses a level gravel pad. With a long level, blocks and a few bags of gravel, you can skip all the effort shown in this video but IMO you should only make a block foundation in light duty situations. Most of the time, the shed is not secured to anything. Lastly, you only need to dig the sod up for the gravel pad- any other soil dug up will be for the purpose of grading the pad.
Thank you!
Don't you think that was a little much gravel? You probably would of been cheaper with a cement foundation considering the amount of gravel that you used.
If You Want To Build A Reliable Shed, You Need Knowledge of Foundations, Piling, Planning and More ... So I'm giving you a comprehensive "how-to" guide on the basics of woodworking.Go here ==> *WoodBlueprints. Com*
We have multiple customers who place their sheds on both cement and gravel pads and just wanted to show an example video of how to go about building your own gravel pad.
interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out backyard storage sheds plans try *WoodBlueprints. Com* Ive heard some decent things about it and my colleague got cool success with it.
Wouldn't gravel have a far lower carbon footprint than concrete?? Aren't we trying to move away from climate change these days, not toward it???
@@callmeswivelhips8229 lol no
10:40 step 17, create 'swale', not a 'swell'.
A swale is a drainage feature that follows the contours of a natural/manmade slope and redirects water. Its embarrassing to get caught saying a technical term wrong to a customer. We've all been there. Not a big deal, just saying.
thank you!!!
Got my 99 cent line level, now if I could just figure out where I can get my hands on a cheap skid loader 🤦♂️
Thanks. Some great reminders and ideas for an upcoming project.
Need a shed like this but with sliding door!! This is super !! I am in Alabama though...do you delivery??
What is the length of the 4 x 6?
What tape measure do you use ?
I'm in the process of upgrading my shed. What's the benefit of using these gravel pads?
Jason ... water drains away from the wood so dryer inside and less settling over the years.
if it sinks a little add more aggregate
Watching this from the UK with my tiny garden. First step is to bring in heavy machinery 😂😂 anit no way a JCB fitting in my garden.
Rated for ground contact not for burying, you'd need railroad ties for in ground use. Best practice would be on stone to level and allow for drainage as opposed to putting your footings in a French drain. Who comes up with this stuff.
How much would this cost in materials?
If I were to pay for this level quality base and shed. Would I be in it 15k??? 20k?
I always wondered why people love to over pay
Can I use item4 as base?
Nice video. How would you anchor the shed to the gravel foundation to protect from high winds?
I’d say ain’t a damn thing moving that shed it’s so heavy lol if it does move it’s probably the least of your worries.
I sell sheds look up earth anchors problem solved
You can install anchors prior to filing the foundation with gravel.
Why does the pad have to be so much bigger? It seems like when this is done, it causes water to be trapped and in a heavy rain storm the water would fill up like a tub, esp gravel over clay. Wouldn't it be better to tighten up the box so you can divert any water away from underneath using flashing at the bottom???
It will drain perfectly the way it is
Joe ... if you are worried about water then add a perf pipe to the gravel area and lead it away. It will be a giant French drain.
Does it need to have double top board or can it be done with only one?
I want to do it with only one, but I keep watching a lot of UA-cam videos and everybody has double
can i do it on my 'not level' concrete floor and just apply gravel untill its level ? then put my shed on top of it ?
How long did this take?
I'm guessing half a day with the help of the skid steer operator
Good video. Sound is a bit on the low side.
So you put your stakes in plumb.
Why not just pour a slab?
Aside from the initial expense, especially within the past two years, water can pool on concrete in places and contribute to rot from underneath. It’s also a reminder here to avoid using OSB on these structures.
@@bergiebitsSeems to me you could slightly slope the concrete pad for water drainage. Pre-constructed sheds don't have to sit perfecly level - after all, it's just a shed. 😊
Next.time.bring a 2nd shovel and hand it to the guy holding the level
2021 -- that border frame cost more then the shed ---- hahahahahah....
That wood is such a waste.
Hahahaha, I am not spending g that much on fucking lumber in 2022!!
@@Bela12351 You can always reuse them for forms. You get tons of use in one season.
@@allanh7137If you are not in the trade then BBQ :)) Anyway yeah
this wood always comes in handy. I still feel it's overkill. I done mine from the cheapest one and had no issue.
@@davidmichelletrageser2560 lmao most people won't
Your skid steer could dig that little trench pretty quick. 😉
Hey Josh, get a wireless mic dude.
"Good hard dirt"?? Dirt? Wazzat? At about 3:10 into this you tell us we need to dig down to good hard dirt. Oh yeah.. I've seen that! It comes in bags at the local Star Nursery for about $14 a bag. You use it when you want to plant flowers or things in a garden, I think. But out here in Las Vegas, we don't have DIRT! We have hard gravel, rocks, something that's light brown that looks like solidified sand and it takes a pick-ax to dig into it! Dirt is something you BUY at the store!
Oh well.. you lost me when you brought in a Bobcat to dig down to the dirt in the first place.
In my case, I gave up with all this digging, and eventually just contracted an ambitious cement/concrete slab installing family who came out and poured and leveled two excellent slabs for my two sheds that I built in 110 degree heat! The slabs are the best!
Well hell, why didn't you say so? So long as you haven a bulldozer handy...
They make trench shovels or drain spades lol
how is it a square if its 16 x 20?
Squared angles. 90.
Много текста у вас работайте лучше!!!!!!!!
The gravel pad could trap more running water than concrete pad...
Not in this Universe
U
What’s the exact size of the 8 inch bolt?
Good video