I watch a bunch of sailing videos and always wonder why people are going up on the deck in weather to put in a reef. This is well thought out and very well presented. Great video; subscribed.
Nicely done, very clean. You sure know your boat. On mine I need to release the vang and set the top lift first. Efficient reefing like that is one of the best things a sailor can learn. The hardest and the best thing I learned was doing a gybe in 30 knots plus wind, took a little practice and a few broaches. A great confidence builder. Nice work, fair winds.
BRILLIANT thank you ive just purchased a bot with the very same set up. just replacing the lines one broke inside the boom. its interesting you dont come off the wind to reef. nice
Thank you so much for a step by step explanation...absolutely love you put in the rigging diagram. Keep posting your fantastic knowledge. Fair winds ⛵️ my friend Lisa
Great video, but ........ you will reduce friction, effort and wear if you take the weight off the boom with the topping lift, and set the halyard slightly slack in the drop. In the second part, you could see the boom drop as you released the halyard. You are using the reefing rig to raise the boom up as you winch it in, effectively winching through the sailcloth! Also winching against the halyard! You will dramatically reduce the need for winching the reefing lines, if at all, like this.
The line has some inherent friction that the winch would still be needed for a good set. As the winch's use is quick and easy, I guess I do have any concern for reducing the friction. I would argue against the idea of trimming the topping lift to carry the boom during a reef. Our lift terminates on the side of the boom, so adjusting it would mean adding two trips to the cabintop, avoiding those trips is the big benefit of a single line reefing system. Also if after the reef is set, just once you forget to ease the lift, when you trim the mainsheet hard, you are likely to break either the boom (done that) or the lift.
Fair enough, they’re your sails, and your boat. You only need to take the weight off the sails with the topping lift, not lift the boom. I did wince when I saw the boom drop! Given the nature of reefing, I like to minimise the risk of equipment failure when I need it most. You explained what you did well, and I liked the two views, from inside the cockpit and a wider view aspect.
The boom hardware is OEM from the Pearson factory. All the magic is in the endcaps. The forward endcap has 3-4 lower sheaves and 3-4 upper sheaves, the aft endcap has 3-4 sheaves. (see theriggingco.com/2014/11/15/single-line-reefing/ . Then inside the boom, the fore and aft parts of each reefing lines are connected via a shuttle block - basically tow blocks connected end to end. If your boom is not configured for this, you would need to get suitable replacement endcaps if available.
Fabulous video - thank you!!! We have just purchased a P 31-2 and this was very helpful! Love your dodger - where did you get it? We need a new one and yours is exactly what we are looking for - thank you again!
Love the video as im trying to understand and build it for my boat as well. Perhaps a stupid question, i have 2 reef points on the sail. Do you have 2 reef lines in order to control each reef point. Or does 1 reef line control both? Thanks in advance for your insights.
A single reef line coming to the cockpit controls the reefing. If you check the diagram at 3:25 in the video, the line has two parts which are connected inside the boom by a block termed a "shuttle block".
Nice setup! Two questions, please.... 1) How did you install the blocks that are inside the boom? 2) Do you ever tie off the two reef point cringles between the tack and clew?
1)The endcaps on the boom are secured by five bolts, remove the bolts and you can take tthe caps off and have access to the inside of the boom. 2) Often the sailcloth of the reef fall right on top of the boom, out of the way. If the reef sailcloth falls below the boom so as to hinder visibility to leeward, I tie it up, often just one tie to the tack does the job. Do not secure around the boom.
@@SailFanatics such an important point - we made the mistake of using those gromwts to tie the sail to the boom - of course created a ton of pressure, ruined sail shape, and created a tear!
The boom needs to have the turning blocks in the endcaps, one in the aft end, two in the forward end, for each reefing line. I assume that boats provided with such booms intend to support single-line reefing. If your boom doe snot have the endcap blocks, you need to order new endcaps or a new boom.
Does your pearson have a carriage type devise for the outhaul or does it connect directly to the clew? Just got a pearson 31-2 and trying to figure out the use of that piece of hardware, thanks!
Our boat has a slide with a circle hole, the moves in the track of the boom. The clew shackles to the slide, and you tie the the outhaul to the clew. For extra purchase, I added a block to the clew so the outhaul turned through the bloc and returned to secure to the boom endcap.
@@francismontocchio9910 The double block is termed a "shuttle block" and yes it moves forward as the reef is set in, back when the reef is shaken out...
Great video. Bought an '89 Pearson 31-2 a few months ago and am having a hard time figuring this system out. Mine seems rigged differently by the gooseneck.
Jeff, My reefing setup is not the original Pearson layout, the PO changed the luff setup to what seems a simpler approach. It works very well for me, provided you have removed any catch points inside the boom - the PO had used long bolts to install the lazy jacks and these were hanging up the reefing blocks. I removed the bolts and trimmed them done. Try setting your luff side up per the diagram, let me know of any questions.
2 questions, why would make the sail a wear point when you can do a bowline knot at it instead of coming back down to the mast and boom padeye. Second, if you don’t mind the eyelet in the sail to be a wear point. Can’t you just go up then back down off the mast and go into it to come up the back or tip of the boom. (I have it setup this way). No need to mod or change anything on most boats that have reefing lines in the boom and still makes it a single line reefing. And depending on sea conditions, sometimes i still walk forward and lock the sail in the clew at the bottom of the boom
These loops of line up from the boom and back down, at both tack and clew, give a 2:1 mechanical advantage, although there is some friction. Small blocks can even be added to thesail at the reef clew and tack points, to reduce that friction.
did you mention that you re-tighten the main halyard after lowering it to pull in your reef? Or is the mark you made in the main halyard accurate enough that you just lower the halyard to the mark, pull in the reef and you are done?
Good question - I did mark the reefing positions on the halyard when the reef was properly set and trimmed, so you do not need to adjust the halyard after putting a reef in. Just lowering the halyard to the correct mark is all that is required.
I know of two possible issues: 1. the first is just the friction related to pulling the reefing line(s) back through the boom as you raise the main. I just ignore this friction by putting the halyard on the winch and cranking the sail back up. The winch provides the necessary power, just be sure to pause cranking if it gets too hard as that probably indicates something hanging up. If this is too difficult, you could first go to the mast and pull the lines forward at the luff, see if that helps. 2. The second is the reefing line stops hard something catches inside the boom - you may not be able to move it either way. On our boat, I traced this to the fact the PO had installed lazy jack fittings on the boom which bolts long enough to protrude into the interior. He really should have used rivets, I removed the bolts and cut them so they just bite into the boom wall, nothing inside. The reefing line turns on a shuttle block inside the boom and that block can catch on any sharp edges inside the boom... If this has happened, you can bend the straps on the block, requiring the blocks to be replaced. The endcaps of the boom should come off easily to inspect what is going on. Do these comments relate to any of your difficulty? Tom
I will try as you describe and use the appropriate caution. However, the greatest point of friction appears to be right at the end of the boom. Often, I will just pull on the reef lines at that point because it keeps me in the cockpit. That works, but it ain't easy. Thanks for your reply. And, I love my Pearson. Every time I do a project(constantly) I'm pleased by the way the builders made this boat.
If I look at www.rigrite.com/Spars/Isomat_Spars/Isomat_Booms/Isomat_AutoReef.php I see that you use a different line-routing at the mast. Can you tell me why you chose this routing? Does it run smoother than the original?
Personally I would not. As with most boat subjects its a question of tradeoffs. My first reservation is an inmast furling main is cut flat with no roach and as a result provides limited performance compared to a normal main. Bt to me the big issue is the risk of the sail jamming half way in/out, and you may face a difficult time resolving the situation. I just wouldn't ever want to be there. We all decide which tradeoffs matter most, so someone else choice can be equally valid for them....
I like one winch for the main halyard riveted on the mast. I go to the mast and sit down and grabbing the mast in between my 2 legs and do main reefing completed without moving from there.
mine is rigged differently, where the boom meets the mast there's a hook thats fixed to the boom, when you lower the main sail to put a reef in you have to leave the cockpit and go forward to the mast aand then hook the eyelet on the sail for the next reef.then go back to the cockpit ,haul in your reefing line (of which i have two) and then haul up the sail. is there any way to simplify this whole manover like yours.i generally only solo sail so this would be a great advantage
The reefing tack hook was the common solution up through the late '80s designs and is still used on many newer boats. The first issue for converting to single-line is whether your boom cap at the gooseneck has the twin pulleys fitted, which are required for each reefing line. If yes, then its feasible, if no, then single-line is not practical. If you want the same benefit, you can install the hardware to add a tack reefing line, running back to the cockpit. Each reef would require trimming two reefing lines, but you could do so from the cockpit.
This is the best detailed explanation, and demonstration of the reefing system construction and use.
Setting up my own reefing system 5/2/19. Thank you!
Any idea how to replace the rear reeling lines? How far in are the dead ends? Thank you. ifio2001@yahoo.com
I watch a bunch of sailing videos and always wonder why people are going up on the deck in weather to put in a reef. This is well thought out and very well presented. Great video; subscribed.
Nicely done, very clean. You sure know your boat. On mine I need to release the vang and set the top lift first. Efficient reefing like that is one of the best things a sailor can learn. The hardest and the best thing I learned was doing a gybe in 30 knots plus wind, took a little practice and a few broaches. A great confidence builder. Nice work, fair winds.
Thanks for such a clear explanation..Just bought a new boat with single line reefing and had no idea how it works!!
BRILLIANT thank you ive just purchased a bot with the very same set up. just replacing the lines one broke inside the boom. its interesting you dont come off the wind to reef. nice
Sometimes it takes years to find a great UTube channel. Thank you.
Thank you. I am trying to figure out how to reef my main without leaving the cockpit. I paused on your diagram and it now becomes clear.
Finding your videos really helpful.
Thank you so much for a step by step explanation...absolutely love you put in the rigging diagram. Keep posting your fantastic knowledge. Fair winds ⛵️ my friend
Lisa
great vid
The last minute, after the explanation, was worth the 8 minutes. Liked, subbed.
Thank you for the video... quite possibly the best explanation on reefing I have seen on UA-cam.
Fantastic video my man! Much gracias!
Thanks, very helpful diagram too!
Would love a tutorial on how you have your lazy jacks setup!
Awesome video! Thx for the drawing. That was exactly what i was looking for!
Great video, but ........
you will reduce friction, effort and wear if you take the weight off the boom with the topping lift, and set the halyard slightly slack in the drop. In the second part, you could see the boom drop as you released the halyard. You are using the reefing rig to raise the boom up as you winch it in, effectively winching through the sailcloth! Also winching against the halyard!
You will dramatically reduce the need for winching the reefing lines, if at all, like this.
The line has some inherent friction that the winch would still be needed for a good set. As the winch's use is quick and easy, I guess I do have any concern for reducing the friction.
I would argue against the idea of trimming the topping lift to carry the boom during a reef. Our lift terminates on the side of the boom, so adjusting it would mean adding two trips to the cabintop, avoiding those trips is the big benefit of a single line reefing system.
Also if after the reef is set, just once you forget to ease the lift, when you trim the mainsheet hard, you are likely to break either the boom (done that) or the lift.
Fair enough, they’re your sails, and your boat.
You only need to take the weight off the sails with the topping lift, not lift the boom. I did wince when I saw the boom drop! Given the nature of reefing, I like to minimise the risk of equipment failure when I need it most.
You explained what you did well, and I liked the two views, from inside the cockpit and a wider view aspect.
Excellent explanation, diagram, and example. Thank you.
Would like to see how you installed and rigged the hardware in the boom. Thanks. This looks very useful!
The boom hardware is OEM from the Pearson factory. All the magic is in the endcaps. The forward endcap has 3-4 lower sheaves and 3-4 upper sheaves, the aft endcap has 3-4 sheaves. (see theriggingco.com/2014/11/15/single-line-reefing/ . Then inside the boom, the fore and aft parts of each reefing lines are connected via a shuttle block - basically tow blocks connected end to end.
If your boom is not configured for this, you would need to get suitable replacement endcaps if available.
@@SailFanatics That's really helpful, thank you!
Fabulous video - thank you!!! We have just purchased a P 31-2 and this was very helpful! Love your dodger - where did you get it? We need a new one and yours is exactly what we are looking for - thank you again!
Sorry, it came with the boat...
Well explained. Just a question-how come you seem to wind the winch in both directions?
The winch in question is two speed - clockwise is more powerful.
Love the video as im trying to understand and build it for my boat as well. Perhaps a stupid question, i have 2 reef points on the sail. Do you have 2 reef lines in order to control each reef point. Or does 1 reef line control both? Thanks in advance for your insights.
A single reef line coming to the cockpit controls the reefing. If you check the diagram at 3:25 in the video, the line has two parts which are connected inside the boom by a block termed a "shuttle block".
I never thought to bring the reefing line at the tack back down the same side. I can see how that will work better so I'll give that a go.
The diagram was a great idea.
Nice setup! Two questions, please.... 1) How did you install the blocks that are inside the boom? 2) Do you ever tie off the two reef point cringles between the tack and clew?
1)The endcaps on the boom are secured by five bolts, remove the bolts and you can take tthe caps off and have access to the inside of the boom.
2) Often the sailcloth of the reef fall right on top of the boom, out of the way. If the reef sailcloth falls below the boom so as to hinder visibility to leeward, I tie it up, often just one tie to the tack does the job. Do not secure around the boom.
@@SailFanatics such an important point - we made the mistake of using those gromwts to tie the sail to the boom - of course created a ton of pressure, ruined sail shape, and created a tear!
Very well done, you have cleared up many grey areas for me.
Thanks a lot for the explanations!
I have just finished a basic sailing course and this kind of videos come really handy.
Cheers! ^_^
Fer,
I'm glad this was of interest. Keep an eye on this channel as I am working on a series of basic how to sailing videos...
Tom
How do they attach blocks so far inside the boom ?
Do you have to order a boom that is rigged for single line reefing or can most booms be rigged for this?
The boom needs to have the turning blocks in the endcaps, one in the aft end, two in the forward end, for each reefing line. I assume that boats provided with such booms intend to support single-line reefing. If your boom doe snot have the endcap blocks, you need to order new endcaps or a new boom.
Does your pearson have a carriage type devise for the outhaul or does it connect directly to the clew? Just got a pearson 31-2 and trying to figure out the use of that piece of hardware, thanks!
Our boat has a slide with a circle hole, the moves in the track of the boom. The clew shackles to the slide, and you tie the the outhaul to the clew. For extra purchase, I added a block to the clew so the outhaul turned through the bloc and returned to secure to the boom endcap.
@@SailFanatics thank you - will try that!
Thanks, this was great.
I understand how the line from the cockpit goes to the tack but I don’t understand how that same line draws in the clew? Can you explain?
I did my best explaining that in the video beginning at 1:30. Not much I can add to that explanation. Also see the picture of the system at 3:30.
Does the double block inside the boom move, or is it fixed? If it moves, then it’s clear how it works.
@@francismontocchio9910 The double block is termed a "shuttle block" and yes it moves forward as the reef is set in, back when the reef is shaken out...
And good luck trying to buy a replacement shuttle block here in the USA.
@@SailFanatics now I get it. Thanks!
Did that very cool gooseneck fitting with the built-in sheaves, come as a stock part on your boat or did you have to find and purchase it?
The end fittings on the boom are OEM Pearson equipment.
Great video. Bought an '89 Pearson 31-2 a few months ago and am having a hard time figuring this system out. Mine seems rigged differently by the gooseneck.
Jeff,
My reefing setup is not the original Pearson layout, the PO changed the luff setup to what seems a simpler approach. It works very well for me, provided you have removed any catch points inside the boom - the PO had used long bolts to install the lazy jacks and these were hanging up the reefing blocks. I removed the bolts and trimmed them done. Try setting your luff side up per the diagram, let me know of any questions.
2 questions, why would make the sail a wear point when you can do a bowline knot at it instead of coming back down to the mast and boom padeye. Second, if you don’t mind the eyelet in the sail to be a wear point. Can’t you just go up then back down off the mast and go into it to come up the back or tip of the boom. (I have it setup this way). No need to mod or change anything on most boats that have reefing lines in the boom and still makes it a single line reefing. And depending on sea conditions, sometimes i still walk forward and lock the sail in the clew at the bottom of the boom
These loops of line up from the boom and back down, at both tack and clew, give a 2:1 mechanical advantage, although there is some friction. Small blocks can even be added to thesail at the reef clew and tack points, to reduce that friction.
did you mention that you re-tighten the main halyard after lowering it to pull in your reef? Or is the mark you made in the main halyard accurate enough that you just lower the halyard to the mark, pull in the reef and you are done?
Good question - I did mark the reefing positions on the halyard when the reef was properly set and trimmed, so you do not need to adjust the halyard after putting a reef in. Just lowering the halyard to the correct mark is all that is required.
very tidy thanks
Great Video, but fyi you dont have to open the rope clutch to tighten the line. you can just pull.
Thx a lot of information
I have the very same Pearson in San Francisco Bay. I have so much trouble shaking out the reefs, no trouble putting them in. Any thoughts on that?
I know of two possible issues:
1. the first is just the friction related to pulling the reefing line(s) back through the boom as you raise the main. I just ignore this friction by putting the halyard on the winch and cranking the sail back up. The winch provides the necessary power, just be sure to pause cranking if it gets too hard as that probably indicates something hanging up. If this is too difficult, you could first go to the mast and pull the lines forward at the luff, see if that helps.
2. The second is the reefing line stops hard something catches inside the boom - you may not be able to move it either way. On our boat, I traced this to the fact the PO had installed lazy jack fittings on the boom which bolts long enough to protrude into the interior. He really should have used rivets, I removed the bolts and cut them so they just bite into the boom wall, nothing inside. The reefing line turns on a shuttle block inside the boom and that block can catch on any sharp edges inside the boom... If this has happened, you can bend the straps on the block, requiring the blocks to be replaced. The endcaps of the boom should come off easily to inspect what is going on.
Do these comments relate to any of your difficulty?
Tom
I will try as you describe and use the appropriate caution. However, the greatest point of friction appears to be right at the end of the boom. Often, I will just pull on the reef lines at that point because it keeps me in the cockpit. That works, but it ain't easy. Thanks for your reply. And, I love my Pearson. Every time I do a project(constantly) I'm pleased by the way the builders made this boat.
You might check and see if your reefing lines are run the same at the mast as shown in the video. This is not the original Pearson line routing?m
...I assume a PO changed the line routing at the mast to reduce friction - the current setup seems simpler than the original Pearson design...
I will check that out. Thanks
If I look at www.rigrite.com/Spars/Isomat_Spars/Isomat_Booms/Isomat_AutoReef.php I see that you use a different line-routing at the mast. Can you tell me why you chose this routing? Does it run smoother than the original?
That is perfect for an old goat like me and my wife.
would you rather have a furling mainsail, where the mainsail rolls up inside the mast?
Personally I would not. As with most boat subjects its a question of tradeoffs. My first reservation is an inmast furling main is cut flat with no roach and as a result provides limited performance compared to a normal main. Bt to me the big issue is the risk of the sail jamming half way in/out, and you may face a difficult time resolving the situation. I just wouldn't ever want to be there.
We all decide which tradeoffs matter most, so someone else choice can be equally valid for them....
I like one winch for the main halyard riveted on the mast. I go to the mast and sit down and grabbing the mast in between my 2 legs and do main reefing completed without moving from there.
mine is rigged differently, where the boom meets the mast there's a hook thats fixed to the boom, when you lower the main sail to put a reef in you have to leave the cockpit and go forward to the mast aand then hook the eyelet on the sail for the next reef.then go back to the cockpit ,haul in your reefing line (of which i have two) and then haul up the sail. is there any way to simplify this whole manover like yours.i generally only solo sail so this would be a great advantage
The reefing tack hook was the common solution up through the late '80s designs and is still used on many newer boats.
The first issue for converting to single-line is whether your boom cap at the gooseneck has the twin pulleys fitted, which are required for each reefing line. If yes, then its feasible, if no, then single-line is not practical. If you want the same benefit, you can install the hardware to add a tack reefing line, running back to the cockpit. Each reef would require trimming two reefing lines, but you could do so from the cockpit.
Don't get it.
J32