You need the wax. Otherwise, you have to do those gaps in a permanent material, way harder. You will have to learn to vary your catalyst to control the resin pot times. As the weather changes, your mix will have too also. Do a small resin test if you have to before starting a large part. After you infuse a part just clamp off both the infusion and vacuum lines. You don't need to run the pump after that. You just have to have a perfect seal that doesn't leak. That's the point of the 30-minute vacuum test. You're doing well, most people can't even keep the weave from getting distorted when handling the fabric. I personally don't paint molds, there's really no need. Pinholes in the mold will be tiny nubs on a finished part that has to be sanded anyway. Keep it up!
@@carbonfiber8071 thank you mate. Yeah i know moulds are normaly left as gel coat but it has come up better with paint. If i can get better with the plugs i wont need to paint them. Lucky i got heeps to learn with 😅 thanks as always for your help
you can get high density PU foam to fiberglass in to the doors for bracing and stiffness it is compatible for resins and it is used in boat building cheers glenn
If you find it's setting too fast, you can put a bit less catalyst in. It's a thermal reaction, so the hotter the weather the faster it will set. And you can do the opposite for colder weather
@@dan5her i did read up on that. But due to the layers i didnt want any resin to not cure. So i just went threw a gazilion measuring containers and brushes 🤣
@BIFIRI_97 haha fair enough! I have the opposite problem when it's cold, but I've found putting a heater nearby helps it set. As long as you mix it well, it will still set, it will just take longer. But it's still an exothermic(I think) reaction, so the whole thing generates heat as it cures, should be able to just leave it in the sun or even a hot workshop and it will still cure pretty fast.
@BIFIRI_97 I tried to post a link to filleting wax on Amazon but it keeps disappearing, maybe UA-cam doesn't like links? The stuff I got is called Pelikan Nakiplast 681 Wax Clay yellow Shipped from Germany and arrived nice and quick
I recommend checking out Tofu Auto Works youtube, he does a lot of the mould building and fibreglass stuff and explains it well, he is also a kiwi so may also be able to recommend suppliers. One thing I've learnt is there's a powdered fibreglass (or carbon fibre) that they mix with resin to form a slurry that he then uses to fillet in any small crevices in the mould, this goes a long way to avoiding air pockets in the final part.
@@jamest5149 yeah i havnt had any trouble as of yet. They seem to release pretty well with the wax. But im sure some tricky moulds like the inner door shell will need a bit more attention.
To clean your brushes use washing power and water to clean the brushes to stop wasting brushes 😅 well done on this build ❤
@@speedwayengineering457 haha i literaly had no time to do that 🤣🤣
the old hot glue gun. bloody fukn magic. awesome build.
Thank you mate!
Keep at it mate, your doing good and steady work ... !!! 👍
@@melbgrk6725 thank you!
Bad luck that pump, Keep going man 🔥🔥
@@sarojsharma6618 i thought it could have atleast done a few infusions not 1 1/2 🤣 thanks mate
G'day awesome sponsor mate plus great video
@@Murphyslawfarm thanks as always mate!
You need the wax. Otherwise, you have to do those gaps in a permanent material, way harder. You will have to learn to vary your catalyst to control the resin pot times. As the weather changes, your mix will have too also. Do a small resin test if you have to before starting a large part. After you infuse a part just clamp off both the infusion and vacuum lines. You don't need to run the pump after that. You just have to have a perfect seal that doesn't leak. That's the point of the 30-minute vacuum test. You're doing well, most people can't even keep the weave from getting distorted when handling the fabric. I personally don't paint molds, there's really no need. Pinholes in the mold will be tiny nubs on a finished part that has to be sanded anyway. Keep it up!
@@carbonfiber8071 thank you mate. Yeah i know moulds are normaly left as gel coat but it has come up better with paint. If i can get better with the plugs i wont need to paint them. Lucky i got heeps to learn with 😅 thanks as always for your help
Yay new video!
you can get high density PU foam to fiberglass in to the doors for bracing and stiffness it is compatible for resins and it is used in boat building cheers glenn
@@glennarnold3970 i think i should before i glue the two door pieces togeather
Throw a set of OZ Racing Ultraleggera HLT wheels on this G. 🙌🏾
@@jeffro3026 as long as there not crome 🤣
If you find it's setting too fast, you can put a bit less catalyst in. It's a thermal reaction, so the hotter the weather the faster it will set. And you can do the opposite for colder weather
@@dan5her i did read up on that. But due to the layers i didnt want any resin to not cure. So i just went threw a gazilion measuring containers and brushes 🤣
@BIFIRI_97 haha fair enough! I have the opposite problem when it's cold, but I've found putting a heater nearby helps it set.
As long as you mix it well, it will still set, it will just take longer. But it's still an exothermic(I think) reaction, so the whole thing generates heat as it cures, should be able to just leave it in the sun or even a hot workshop and it will still cure pretty fast.
@BIFIRI_97 I tried to post a link to filleting wax on Amazon but it keeps disappearing, maybe UA-cam doesn't like links? The stuff I got is called Pelikan Nakiplast 681 Wax Clay yellow
Shipped from Germany and arrived nice and quick
@@dan5her i told my dad he has to help when doing the hood and bumper get 2 pots going 🤣
I recommend checking out Tofu Auto Works youtube, he does a lot of the mould building and fibreglass stuff and explains it well, he is also a kiwi so may also be able to recommend suppliers. One thing I've learnt is there's a powdered fibreglass (or carbon fibre) that they mix with resin to form a slurry that he then uses to fillet in any small crevices in the mould, this goes a long way to avoiding air pockets in the final part.
@@arrindaley3714 that sounds like a smart person. Haha makes sense. Il check it out! Thank you
That pump is a duty cycle pump, not designed to remain running for long periods.
@@globaltripping3654 i thought id better check anyway 🤣
💪❤️😊
I think someone mentioned in a previous vid that those pumps were potentially dangerous.
@@neilmchardy9061 100% i was never going to leave that un attended while it was turned on. 🤣
Think it might be time for that oil less pump.
I see you are using wax as the parting material, most then spray a few layers of PVA, then the gel coat. Its easier to separate and then just was off.
@@jamest5149 yeah i havnt had any trouble as of yet. They seem to release pretty well with the wax. But im sure some tricky moulds like the inner door shell will need a bit more attention.
Yay new video!