Cant wait to see the exhaust valve part of this video!!! Where else could someone get this level of expertise? Thank you again for a great video Maestro David!!!
Excellent vid mate! I’ll be watching this and Richard’s channel more than I should be! I’ve found myself extending breaks between jobs to catch up on some excellent topics and with some real learning! Those chambers look really nice and should make some good numbers on boost!
Mr Vizard, I did some dyno development with the 2.2 turbo 20 years ago. If using a factory style dish piston, there is maybe 1/4 inch of quench possible. Forget quench. These engines relief on massive intake pressure to make HP. Lots of heat. I found making an open chamber with consistent combustion chamber thickness gave a much more broad tuning window in the 30 psi + range.Drilling the coolant passage oversize below the ex port in the block, gasket, and the head was also a plus. Because of the poor cylinder head, these engines require high boost to make HP. Dealing with heat in the head is a must
@@heem6619 Never tried ceramic coatings. In my research, making combustion chamber casting thickness uniform eliminated hot spots, allowing coolant to do its job, and gave a much broader tuning window, at 30+ psi manifold pressures.
@@DavidVizard Mr Vizard. Sir, I already have. Seemed that Mr Holdener didn't put much faith in my experience. No harm, no foul. In my testing, the thickest parts of the chamber away from coolant became "glow plugs". There was evidence of erosion on those areas on blown up engines from spark knock. Kept removing those areas in the chamber, and the spark knock for no- good-reason went away. Went from breaking ring lands on the ex side with barely audible knock, to chewing up only the center of the piston with very obvious knock when the tune was off. Opened up the tuning window, allowed more mistakes, hurt way fewer parts. Now they tell me that the big $$$ folks call this "chamber softening".
Very nice work. Thanks for the explanations throughout this build. I really like seeing you do the machine work. But of course I like that part. Thanks again David. Take care, Ed.
This is making me to want to start porting I don't have a dyno or a flow bench but by watching your videos u do a great job thanks for sharing your knowledge were all learning:)
So basically by directing the swirl of the air/fuel charge above the valves in the combustion chamber is where you are increasing the coefficient of flow for more torque as horse power follows. This shows that every little gain adds up. This is impressive an to some degree be applied to almost any cylinder head. Thanks David again for sharing. DK, ASE master tech, retired.
Artistry. 🫡 Unlike the old Slant Six, the Chrysler 2.2 is a bathtub, non canted valve, non wedge , non Heron type head. That's some lovely head porting on a very basic head. Minis, Triumphs, Cologne V6s, some of the most basic Bathtub heads respond greatly to the smallest modifications. 🥝✔️
I love your head porting vids specifically because you get down to the science of it, which few if any other guys really ever get to. Most of the other vids are just relaying the 'cause and effect' they've witnessed.
WOW David that was very interesting to me. One because I know nothing about porting but have always wanted to and two because of the details you included that most people wouldn’t have. I watch all of your videos and really enjoy them.
David, I would really like to see a video of what you would do to a GM 3.8L V6 (Gen II), which was a very popular engine for over 20 (maybe 30) years. It has been turbocharged, supercharged, there are TONS of these engines laying around, they can still be rebuilt and "built". My biggest questions are with the heads, intake, and cams, both stock and aftermarket. These engines are very reliable, get good mileage, can make very good power, and can even out-power some small V8s if they are built right.
Hi David. I think your videos are very educational for us learners. I am wanting to port a 1956 holden grey motor cylinder head. It has Siamese intake ports and also bath tub compression camber Very similar to the Minni head and the mopar Do you have any videos from your Minni head porting I can watch. Thanks Darren Thomas from Australia.
Eliminating the thick/sharp points in the chamber would be next. Some of those sharp points in the casting are over 1/2 thick before contact with coolant. They become glow plugs. Carve it out to a consistent thickness open chamber. I went from breaking pistons ringlands on the ex side with barely audible detonation, to eating up the center of the piston when the tuneup was wrong, while not breaking a piston or head gasket.
David, have you had any experience with Direct Injection (high pressure) Fuel Injection ? *Speaking about GM/Chev GenV LS/LT Engines specifically* , Do the extremely small chambers found in these Direct Injection Cylinder heads (OEM or Aftermarket) benefit from a chamber softening for certain boosted and/or Nitrous applications, as one would normally do to high performance heads using regular Port Injection ?. With the valve angle being quite shallow on most Direct Injection Cylinder Heads (11deg-12deg range) along with the small chambers (50-60cc range) the Pistons are normally limited to flat tops with the standard 'Direct Injection piston design center fuel cup' dish in the center, not really allowing for a pop-up type of design. The goal by the engineers seems simple enough, to get high compression ratio while accommodating that shallow valve angle. I am really interested in building a Direct Injection setup using a GenV GM LT1 376cu, or perhaps the L8T 401cu Truck engine from the same family, as a BOOSTED cruiser on 87 octane fuel. With Direct Injection introducing fuel at TDC rather than on the way up on the compression stroke, much higher compression can be run on worse fuel thanks to that pre-ignition mitigation using fuel timing. 11.0:1 from GM is safe for 87oct on these engines without the risk of knock, so I am wondering if a small chamber softening can help further, so that a streetable 10.5 - 10.7:1 can continue to run 87 octane while boosted without leaving all of the timing on the table. I would really love to learn more about Detonation/Pre-Ignition mitigation Tricks and Tips that you may have that may apply to this type of fueling, or even standard (low pressure, standard injection timing) Port Injection. Cheers and thanks for taking the time to read this mess. I hope it makes sense.
@@DavidVizard My favorite author and UA-camr writes back!!! I will have to tell my wife about it and kids about. Thank you again for your hard work and gift to us.
When you have a chance, look into this, modifing the oil pump by-pass passage return and spring tension, don't know if this is a agreeable rule or not, 8 to10psi per 1000rpm for NA engines, if you are turning 6000rpm because of that stock camshaft, then 55psi might do, anything above that is HP robbed by the pump
Definitely does take a lot of force to turn higher pressures and it’s a real power drain also more heat and stress on the oil! I run a low rpm (below 6k) v6 turbo engine and use 20w50 to 25w70 oil at 80 psi hot idle and 100 cold in order to gain crank and rod stability at high boost and torque load,I had previously tried lower viscosity oil and lower pressure it’s got the benefit of better turbo spool and overall a free turning engine but subject those big ends to some detonation or just a hard lower rpm boost hit and things can get pear shaped literally! In the higher temperatures thin oil and lower pressure oil is far easier to dissipate
Hey DV, not sure if you respond to these or not, but I have my Mopar 383 iron heads and I have a question ❓ for you: is it better to have a bend in an intake port or a fairly large lump? Allow me to elaborate. Well my particular casting has horrendous intrusion in the intake port from the pushrod boss, I bet the small block you're working on does too. I'm curious about how to treat this as it is basically an air dam. My thought is to build up more material on the intake side of the dam and feather the shape into a tear drop shape, while also removing additional material on the opposite wall to mirror the shape and make more like a lazy bend in the port instead of a flow killer right out the gate. As you often say help the air do what it wants not what I think it should do. Or should I just grind down the lump as much as I can and send it. This is a VERY COMMON problem on MOPAR engines and I'd like to try something out of the box and I've never seen anyone do this so it's either genius or idiotic, your thoughts?
If you skim it you'll take the some of the mods out, 'Depends' is the best answer. As it's a turbo lowering the CR may help if it's too high, if it's too low then get some pistons made to suit. If you've never done it before you'll be surprised how little chamber mods effect the static CR. Lower CR = more boost = more power.
@@DavidVizard So the improvement curve on the flow bench is a true representation of improvements on a dyno, even at much greater air speeds than the flow bench can produce? I wouldn't be surprised if further deshrouding still produced gains on a dyno which aren't visible on a flow bench, and just want to be completely clear that's been tested and falsified? Thank you very much for sharing your excellent work Mr. Vizard
This video gives viewers some useful information unlike some of your other videos which are still entertaining but don't give us much usable information
Cant wait to see the exhaust valve part of this video!!! Where else could someone get this level of expertise? Thank you again for a great video Maestro David!!!
Thank You Mr Vizard. This is a great fountain of research/knowledge for us old turbo 2.2/2.5 guys
Excellent vid mate! I’ll be watching this and Richard’s channel more than I should be! I’ve found myself extending breaks between jobs to catch up on some excellent topics and with some real learning! Those chambers look really nice and should make some good numbers on boost!
Mr Vizard, I did some dyno development with the 2.2 turbo 20 years ago. If using a factory style dish piston, there is maybe 1/4 inch of quench possible. Forget quench. These engines relief on massive intake pressure to make HP. Lots of heat. I found making an open chamber with consistent combustion chamber thickness gave a much more broad tuning window in the 30 psi + range.Drilling the coolant passage oversize below the ex port in the block, gasket, and the head was also a plus. Because of the poor cylinder head, these engines require high boost to make HP. Dealing with heat in the head is a must
Good info here Kyle, Can you pass it on to Richard Holdener for me please?
You ever try ceramic coating the combustion chamber and exhaust port to contain the heat?
@@heem6619 Never tried ceramic coatings. In my research, making combustion chamber casting thickness uniform eliminated hot spots, allowing coolant to do its job, and gave a much broader tuning window, at 30+ psi manifold pressures.
@@DavidVizard Mr Vizard. Sir, I already have. Seemed that Mr Holdener didn't put much faith in my experience. No harm, no foul. In my testing, the thickest parts of the chamber away from coolant became "glow plugs". There was evidence of erosion on those areas on blown up engines from spark knock. Kept removing those areas in the chamber, and the spark knock for no- good-reason went away. Went from breaking ring lands on the ex side with barely audible knock, to chewing up only the center of the piston with very obvious knock when the tune was off. Opened up the tuning window, allowed more mistakes, hurt way fewer parts. Now they tell me that the big $$$ folks call this "chamber softening".
@@kylemilligan752 u got pix?
I love it! Not only do you show how... but more importantly, you explain WHY !!!!!
Thank you so much.
Very nice work.
Thanks for the explanations throughout this build.
I really like seeing you do the machine work.
But of course I like that part.
Thanks again David.
Take care, Ed.
One of the best , most detailed episode ever. Excellent work
This is making me to want to start porting I don't have a dyno or a flow bench but by watching your videos u do a great job thanks for sharing your knowledge were all learning:)
Thank you for these vids, will wait for more turbo mopar hints and mods.
Great to see how the expert does it correctly
So basically by directing the swirl of the air/fuel charge above the valves in the combustion chamber is where you are increasing the coefficient of flow for more torque as horse power follows. This shows that every little gain adds up. This is impressive an to some degree be applied to almost any cylinder head.
Thanks David again for sharing. DK, ASE master tech, retired.
Very educational here. Never seen anywhere else. many thanks.
Artistry. 🫡 Unlike the old Slant Six, the Chrysler 2.2 is a bathtub, non canted valve, non wedge , non Heron type head. That's some lovely head porting on a very basic head. Minis, Triumphs, Cologne V6s, some of the most basic Bathtub heads respond greatly to the smallest modifications. 🥝✔️
“Anyone who can only think of one way to spell a word obviously lacks imagination.”
― Mark Twain
I love your head porting vids specifically because you get down to the science of it, which few if any other guys really ever get to. Most of the other vids are just relaying the 'cause and effect' they've witnessed.
WOW David that was very interesting to me. One because I know nothing about porting but have always wanted to and two because of the details you included that most people wouldn’t have. I watch all of your videos and really enjoy them.
Could you do a Ford 6 cyl Barra head port job for us lowly Australians please.
May you & your family have a merry Christmas & a happy new year
Most people can't blend the chamber that expertly
This is good stuff! It'll be cool to see Richard putting this on the dyno, as well. 👍
David, I would really like to see a video of what you would do to a GM 3.8L V6
(Gen II), which was a very popular engine for over 20 (maybe 30) years.
It has been turbocharged, supercharged, there are TONS of these engines
laying around, they can still be rebuilt and "built". My biggest questions are
with the heads, intake, and cams, both stock and aftermarket. These engines
are very reliable, get good mileage, can make very good power, and can even
out-power some small V8s if they are built right.
1172hp 2liter is very impressive! I can understand why keeping it together was a challenge. 🙂
This was a helpful video, thank you
Excellent work David. I am into similar 8v heads from a Swedish brand, very helpful.
Hi David. I think your videos are very educational for us learners. I am wanting to port a 1956 holden grey motor cylinder head. It has Siamese intake ports and also bath tub compression camber Very similar to the Minni head and the mopar Do you have any videos from your Minni head porting I can watch. Thanks Darren Thomas from Australia.
Great vidja 🤙🏼
Thanks
Eliminating the thick/sharp points in the chamber would be next. Some of those sharp points in the casting are over 1/2 thick before contact with coolant. They become glow plugs. Carve it out to a consistent thickness open chamber. I went from breaking pistons ringlands on the ex side with barely audible detonation, to eating up the center of the piston when the tuneup was wrong, while not breaking a piston or head gasket.
🔔😎
"IMAGINATION" !!!
LOL LOL 👍👍😎
Your one smart cookie
David, have you had any experience with Direct Injection (high pressure) Fuel Injection ? *Speaking about GM/Chev GenV LS/LT Engines specifically* , Do the extremely small chambers found in these Direct Injection Cylinder heads (OEM or Aftermarket) benefit from a chamber softening for certain boosted and/or Nitrous applications, as one would normally do to high performance heads using regular Port Injection ?. With the valve angle being quite shallow on most Direct Injection Cylinder Heads (11deg-12deg range) along with the small chambers (50-60cc range) the Pistons are normally limited to flat tops with the standard 'Direct Injection piston design center fuel cup' dish in the center, not really allowing for a pop-up type of design. The goal by the engineers seems simple enough, to get high compression ratio while accommodating that shallow valve angle.
I am really interested in building a Direct Injection setup using a GenV GM LT1 376cu, or perhaps the L8T 401cu Truck engine from the same family, as a BOOSTED cruiser on 87 octane fuel. With Direct Injection introducing fuel at TDC rather than on the way up on the compression stroke, much higher compression can be run on worse fuel thanks to that pre-ignition mitigation using fuel timing. 11.0:1 from GM is safe for 87oct on these engines without the risk of knock, so I am wondering if a small chamber softening can help further, so that a streetable 10.5 - 10.7:1 can continue to run 87 octane while boosted without leaving all of the timing on the table. I would really love to learn more about Detonation/Pre-Ignition mitigation Tricks and Tips that you may have that may apply to this type of fueling, or even standard (low pressure, standard injection timing) Port Injection. Cheers and thanks for taking the time to read this mess. I hope it makes sense.
👍
You are lowering your compression ratio by grinding the solid parts of those comb chambers a bit.
Just add boost, compression ratio, will be up...
How are you measuring swirl, is it in another video and if so which one?
Does anyone know if Pontiac heads are bathtub heads and will these mods help out? Thanks in advance for any replies.
Yes!
@@DavidVizard My favorite author and UA-camr writes back!!! I will have to tell my wife about it and kids about. Thank you again for your hard work and gift to us.
Is gold...👍👏🙂
And now for something completely different, haha.
When you have a chance, look into this, modifing the oil pump by-pass passage return and spring tension, don't know if this is a agreeable rule or not, 8 to10psi per 1000rpm for NA engines, if you are turning 6000rpm because of that stock camshaft, then 55psi might do, anything above that is HP robbed by the pump
Definitely does take a lot of force to turn higher pressures and it’s a real power drain also more heat and stress on the oil! I run a low rpm (below 6k) v6 turbo engine and use 20w50 to 25w70 oil at 80 psi hot idle and 100 cold in order to gain crank and rod stability at high boost and torque load,I had previously tried lower viscosity oil and lower pressure it’s got the benefit of better turbo spool and overall a free turning engine but subject those big ends to some detonation or just a hard lower rpm boost hit and things can get pear shaped literally! In the higher temperatures thin oil and lower pressure oil is far easier to dissipate
David what lobe separation angle will you suggest for this engine and I am wondering what turbine side of the turbo will be proper
I spell finetically just to mess wit people
Is the procedure somewhat the same on old GM 882/993 open chamber heads?
DV, the website for the IOP download seems to be down, just wanted to bring that to your attention.
working on the fix now,
It looks like very little gain for such effort
I cant seem to find the next video???
Hey DV, not sure if you respond to these or not, but I have my Mopar 383 iron heads and I have a question ❓ for you: is it better to have a bend in an intake port or a fairly large lump? Allow me to elaborate.
Well my particular casting has horrendous intrusion in the intake port from the pushrod boss, I bet the small block you're working on does too. I'm curious about how to treat this as it is basically an air dam. My thought is to build up more material on the intake side of the dam and feather the shape into a tear drop shape, while also removing additional material on the opposite wall to mirror the shape and make more like a lazy bend in the port instead of a flow killer right out the gate. As you often say help the air do what it wants not what I think it should do.
Or should I just grind down the lump as much as I can and send it.
This is a VERY COMMON problem on MOPAR engines and I'd like to try something out of the box and I've never seen anyone do this so it's either genius or idiotic, your thoughts?
I cannot say for your motor but a BBC has a rocker stud lump which I just grind off and fill. on an 800 hp bb thats 20 hp!
@@DavidVizard simple and apparently effective. You're the man, thank you.
Do you still do customer heads David?
What about chamber and seats
👍💪
How do you get the compression back after chamber mods? Skimming the head, piston dome or it depends?
If you skim it you'll take the some of the mods out, 'Depends' is the best answer. As it's a turbo lowering the CR may help if it's too high, if it's too low then get some pistons made to suit. If you've never done it before you'll be surprised how little chamber mods effect the static CR. Lower CR = more boost = more power.
BOOST
DV is also quite adamant about piston to head clearance.
Have you dyno'd deshrouding beyond the point of improvement on the flow bench?
Yes many times.
@@DavidVizard So the improvement curve on the flow bench is a true representation of improvements on a dyno, even at much greater air speeds than the flow bench can produce?
I wouldn't be surprised if further deshrouding still produced gains on a dyno which aren't visible on a flow bench, and just want to be completely clear that's been tested and falsified?
Thank you very much for sharing your excellent work Mr. Vizard
Under boost!
This video gives viewers some useful information unlike some of your other videos which are still entertaining but don't give us much usable information
Tom ???????????
Any advice on a heron head?
I'm turbo charging a Porsche 924 and the port flow in is ridiculously bad.
I have found opver the years that Porsche heads are way short of their potential.
Thanks very much, DV. v/r wh
👍