It must be mounted under my Garmin; Mounting it on top of your bar looks silly. Usually this means that the light is upside down and the beam pattern is completely wrong.
Should have included lights that are compatible with the action camera mount that is used to mount a go-pro or other similar camera below your bike computer. I'm sure there are a couple out there like that and would result in a sleeker setup that is compatible with non-round handlebars.
Exactly, who wants clutter on their handlebar. I’m using an aftermarket garmin mount with a gopro mount underneath and a MagicShine light built to be mounted like that. It’s good and it has remote buttons (even with a high-beam button like on a car). Really clean look and packed with features.
I’ve had the outbound for a year now, and it’s excellent. Not worries about blinding anyone, and you can see everything you need with it’s brightest mode. Very impressed for a small company, and cheaper than the exposure too!
Outbound Lighting Detour is the best overall, especially considering product support. Also, its assembled in the US, which only matters if you are from the US too.
I use Exposure lights off road and they are amazing but very very expensive. I have a MaxD that’s 6 years old and it still does 2 hours on max output so still very usable.
It is excellent. Still testing to find the most suitable/ effective setting for use away from lit roads. Also how well it charges from a block either whilst off or during use
After having an exposure race bike light for over 7years i would bye an Exposure again 😍 its been dropped a few times with metal case it surges off road impact and still functions as good as new. 🤩 With no maintenance required 😂 yes they are expensive but they balance out by longeverty 😁
I think your testing is missing the point. Seeing "hi viz" objects (the clothing, the cones, the car lights/reflectors) isn't a problem. The problem is riding 30+km/h down unlit country lanes with no white lines middle or side, and the edge of the road blending into a muddy verge. Everything becomes similar shades of grey. This is where I need 1500+ lumens, and it can still be difficult to see where the road actually is.
No way do you need that many lumens. Just a light with a properly focused beam and reflector, eg a dynamo light like the SON Edelux 2. Literally brilliant.
need to review helmet mounted lights for rural roads where you can turn your head and see ditch to ditch and beyond. driving on county roads, you need to see critters advancing toward the roads, not just the potholes
A win, It's when you're cycling through the woods and you're not afraid of a branch flying into your face. So all these lower lights are for asphalt casuals only.
Could y'all please test the Sofirn BS01? I'm really happy with my Sofirn flashlights and I want to know how their bike light compares to other cheaper bike lights.
Recommending non-stvzo lights for road riding should get you booed out of the room. The big exposure lights have a good pattern for MTB but that tiny wedge mount will rattle itself loose in no time flat, and then the light will rattle ALL the time.
STZVO is jist a German standard, there's lights with legit cut offs without that standard, but most will be dipped/anti glare beams..so still some bleed off. I'd rather have an SAE wide fog beam pattern than the STZVO (some are a horrible shape)
Also, exposure is simply mediocre for THE MTB single track,...just your standard low tech round flashlight pattern,. Way better options such as outbound trail Evo, outbound portal, full on lighting MB6, even cheapies like Infun GT200, King Kong Ray 1500 and even Novsight 1600 have more usable light/illumination.
I wish manufacturers actually made proper reflectors for road biking. The beam should have a wide horizontal hotspot pattern and illuminate no higher than the handlebars height when put parallel to the ground.
Almost the entire bike light industry is trash as they tend to use the outdated round flash light beam with center bullseye hot spot, not matter if an inexpensive light head or an expensive one.. Some like magic shine just over power it with 6-12k creating other issues. Only a few brands go beyond the cooking cutter crap and develop a good to excellent beam pattern. Sadly even most urban lights use the same round beam. Again only a few brands actually attempt to implement a cutoff beam.
I wouldn't pick any light that doesn't have a replaceable battery, nor do I think any light should win if it doesn't have a replaceable battery. Why buy a light that has LEDs rated for 50,000 hours, but the battery can only recycle 500 times for roughly 2,000 hours of run time? So then you throw away a perfectly fine headlight all because the battery cannot be replaced. For the price I could afford is why I bought the NiteRider Lumina Pro 1100, all I'll have to do when the time comes is send the light back to NiteRider and for about $30 they put in a new battery, check and repair if necessary all the functions, and reseal the headlight, then send it back to me ready to go for another 2,000 or so hours. There is no way anyone is going to be able to buy a 1100 lumen light for $30 when your light battery dies.
Just because it doesn't have removable batteries does not mean you have to throw it away, they can be replaced if you can open it up and source the cells.
@@dogbreath6974 That's all well and good if the thing can be taken apart, my old in the trash can Lezyne light there was no way to take it apart, there was no seam, the only thing I could think of was removing the lens and try to access the battery from the front, but it too would not come out. And if the case wasn't designed for being taken apart then you run into an issue of waterproofing it when putting it back together. Then there is the problem of being handy enough to desolder the old battery and solder in the new. I'm not bad with working on classic car mechanicals but soldering was never something I was good at, I've done it, but it didn't come out pretty, and inside a light, you will probably need a very tiny bit of solder since everything is smashed into a small amount of space so too much solder could spill over onto something that could just short it out. It's just less of a headache to buy a new light, but now I only buy lights that have some way of replacing the battery, either by myself or sending it back to the company and paying a small fee to have it done. I had a real tiny ScanDisk music player, the battery was shot, got on UA-cam, and watched how to do it...nope, I threw it away, everything inside that thing was super tiny stuff, and the thing wasn't meant for someone to replace the battery but some people could and did.
Yes， for now, people prefer USB-C to USB micro, we are a manufacturer of bike lights. and we do have a lot of demands that request us to change to use USB-C instead of Micro USB. So we also create some lights with USB-C.
You can find all of our Lezyne reviews on the road.cc website, there are plenty that have scored an 8/10 but not a 9! We also are currently testing their new range and hoping for some tweaks to the modes
there is hole on the systems all those light are design for an round handlebar I've got a roval rapide handlebar I haven't be able to find a light for my handlebar
£45 is not cheap. I bought for half of this price real 800lumens 4000mah light. It is so strong I just use 450lumens mode. It can be use and charge same time and has USB C not like this Raveman micro usb from 2010🤦🏼
How is it possible that you’d skip a global world tour brand like Trek that offers multiple innovative lights including the only aero shaped 1300 watt light designed to go beneath and inline with a bike computer mount. None of your light suggestions work with integrated cockpits or aero setups generally.
I bought an 10,000 lumen light on Aliexpress for about £30. It's in the Newboler official store. Of course I don't know the true output but I'll tell you what: it's helluva bright.
It's always great to watch bike lamp reviews that ignore all the inexpensive and bright lamps available today so we can see what all the foolish, gullible suckers are buying.
I had the Ravemen PR1600 Bicycle Headlight that I purchase Aug. 01, 2021. Until now the remote worked without issues. Now the remote only works sometimes. I've changed the batter and did the 'Repairing'. As far as batter life, I use a Power Bank when cycling most of the time. On dark roads I need the high setting as seen in my night cycling videos. This video will show how I carry the Power Bank on my bike www.youtube.com/watch?
Its not sad. You have far better lights there. These lights as just dangerous, I know this as a cyclist who has to pass people using them. I am totally blind when they approach as are cars. Also they need stupid high lumen counts because they waste so much of their energy lighting up the sky.
@@kidShibuya I agree that the lights here are good, but firstly you can count the amount of allowed lights that can be mounted under the handlebars with one hand, and secondly it means that this video is completely useless to me
Can you stop pushing high lumen dangerous lights? There is a very good reason why cars legally need a cutoff and why germany has stvzo. Even if you don't care about your personal safety and think its ok that oncoming cars are blinded by you, the fact is that you are wasting light shining it up into the sky. You can save battery if you use a lower setting with a beam that puts it all on the road where it's actually useful. Most of the lights you push are just flash lights with bike mounts. They are not fit for purpose. FSS look at 6:35 and the light shining on that fake head. If that is another moving object they have no idea where you are. If they hit you or not is up to chance.
All of the lights here are ranked based on their beam shape, in fact we’re the only UK site to publish the shape of each beam. Light 1 and 4 are only 450 lumens and won’t be blinding anybody, light 3 has a fully cutoff beam, light 6 has Aktiv whereby the light dims for incoming traffic, that leaves two lights which happen to have lower modes to avoid blinding anyone, then when you get to a dark lane and want the extra light you can
@@roadcc What is weak depends on how dark adapted your eyes are and your general vision capabilities. Imagine you are walking in near pitch black at night with your eyes totally dark adapted then a cyclist comes at you with 'only' 400 lumens... Do you really think you will be seeing anything at all in front of you? And also keep in mind that you advocate far more powerful lights away from city streets. On beam shape, I have an exposure light praised for its beam. I have tested it myself in my house, I can't see crap when I am in front of it even if its pointed down. I have a naca road though and that is excellent, my waist down is glowing but the only light hitting my eyes is reflected light. I can deal with that. There is so much sense in stvzo, opinion leaders really should be pushing it.
The Ravemen is also listed here - which has an anti-glare low beam. I have one myself and this feature was one factor to why I bought it. The remote switch also allows you to dim when you need, as well as go straight to full power if you need to check ahead. I only have the PR800 but it does what I need and has been great. Different circumstances may require more light but I suppose it’s up to the individual to be considerate of their surroundings.
I agree with the original comment. However, lights with a cut off need to actually be manufactured and sold before they can be tested. Until a few years ago Stvzo only applied to dynamo lights. I own one of the best - a supernova. At 200 lumens it is positively useless on an unlit road. This year they released a new version with 700 lumens and a 1000 lumens main beam, but it's £390 in the UK and was only released this year. So what do I ride ? A 800 lumen round beam dynamo light. The same with offroad lights. Only in the last couple of years have I been able to buy an offroad light with a dipped beam - the lupine sl ax gives 3800 lumens on max, but also has a road friendly dip beam (for about £500 !!!). I'm 100% in favour of proper dipped beams, but they need to become the norm and not the exception. It's difficult to buy what doesn't exist.
None of those lights really do anything for me, I don't really care whether other cyclists or cars don't like my bright light its most important that i can see where I am going, these views must be a british only thing?
No USA/Canada etc too Get away from the shitty round beams with no cut offs For the Street or gravel, they're trash..for single track/woods they're mediocre. You can get inexpensive lights that work better with proper beams for either scenario(or more expensive) Bike light market is just full of trash Some people pay 400+ for a light that has the same round beam as a 20$ Amazon/AliExpress special .. Also, if all a vehicle sees is glare, he's not seeing you lol Have you ever driven a car and an oncoming car passes you with high beams on( you can't see crap)
USB-C is a must! It´s hard enough carrying phone\laptop, powermeter, Di2 and garmin for the weekends.
It must be mounted under my Garmin; Mounting it on top of your bar looks silly. Usually this means that the light is upside down and the beam pattern is completely wrong.
Should have included lights that are compatible with the action camera mount that is used to mount a go-pro or other similar camera below your bike computer. I'm sure there are a couple out there like that and would result in a sleeker setup that is compatible with non-round handlebars.
I agree. I have some Ali express ones that has been rock solid for 4 years, but they are rattling now.
But I want something fancier now.
Exactly, who wants clutter on their handlebar.
I’m using an aftermarket garmin mount with a gopro mount underneath and a MagicShine light built to be mounted like that.
It’s good and it has remote buttons (even with a high-beam button like on a car). Really clean look and packed with features.
absolutely, i just bought the MagicShine, and i love their Garmin mount it's super stable and easy to attach and remove the light. And it is usb-c
I've own the Outbound Lighting Detour for a year now and it's one of the best light for night riding.
I’ve had the outbound for a year now, and it’s excellent. Not worries about blinding anyone, and you can see everything you need with it’s brightest mode. Very impressed for a small company, and cheaper than the exposure too!
Outbound Lighting Detour is the best overall, especially considering product support. Also, its assembled in the US, which only matters if you are from the US too.
I use Exposure lights off road and they are amazing but very very expensive. I have a MaxD that’s 6 years old and it still does 2 hours on max output so still very usable.
so glad this came up. I need a bike light!
What about the Lezyne e.g. MACRO DRIVE 1400+
That Exposure is a work of art!
It is excellent. Still testing to find the most suitable/ effective setting for use away from lit roads. Also how well it charges from a block either whilst off or during use
I have shelved my exposure. It shines its light just everywhere like a torch. Once I found stvzo lights I never went back.
And it doesnt even do it in a good way, round beams suck for the street and are bleh for the single track@@kidShibuya
After having an exposure race bike light for over 7years i would bye an Exposure again 😍 its been dropped a few times with metal case it surges off road impact and still functions as good as new. 🤩 With no maintenance required 😂 yes they are expensive but they balance out by longeverty 😁
Exposure is absolutely terrible.
It's literally an overpriced low tech flash light@@hoyhoy42
I think your testing is missing the point. Seeing "hi viz" objects (the clothing, the cones, the car lights/reflectors) isn't a problem. The problem is riding 30+km/h down unlit country lanes with no white lines middle or side, and the edge of the road blending into a muddy verge. Everything becomes similar shades of grey. This is where I need 1500+ lumens, and it can still be difficult to see where the road actually is.
No way do you need that many lumens. Just a light with a properly focused beam and reflector, eg a dynamo light like the SON Edelux 2. Literally brilliant.
need to review helmet mounted lights for rural roads where you can turn your head and see ditch to ditch and beyond. driving on county roads, you need to see critters advancing toward the roads, not just the potholes
A win, It's when you're cycling through the woods and you're not afraid of a branch flying into your face. So all these lower lights are for asphalt casuals only.
Could y'all please test the Sofirn BS01? I'm really happy with my Sofirn flashlights and I want to know how their bike light compares to other cheaper bike lights.
Recommending non-stvzo lights for road riding should get you booed out of the room. The big exposure lights have a good pattern for MTB but that tiny wedge mount will rattle itself loose in no time flat, and then the light will rattle ALL the time.
STZVO is jist a German standard, there's lights with legit cut offs without that standard, but most will be dipped/anti glare beams..so still some bleed off.
I'd rather have an SAE wide fog beam pattern than the STZVO (some are a horrible shape)
Also, exposure is simply mediocre for THE MTB single track,...just your standard low tech round flashlight pattern,. Way better options such as outbound trail Evo, outbound portal, full on lighting MB6, even cheapies like Infun GT200, King Kong Ray 1500 and even Novsight 1600 have more usable light/illumination.
Fantastic guys,,, thanks for the review 😊❤👊👊🇬🇧
Have you tested the latest range of Halfords advanced light's they have just been updated and are reasonably priced.
We will try and get them in 😊
I wish manufacturers actually made proper reflectors for road biking. The beam should have a wide horizontal hotspot pattern and illuminate no higher than the handlebars height when put parallel to the ground.
Nitecore BR35 does it
Outbound Detour?
Almost the entire bike light industry is trash as they tend to use the outdated round flash light beam with center bullseye hot spot, not matter if an inexpensive light head or an expensive one..
Some like magic shine just over power it with 6-12k creating other issues.
Only a few brands go beyond the cooking cutter crap and develop a good to excellent beam pattern.
Sadly even most urban lights use the same round beam.
Again only a few brands actually attempt to implement a cutoff beam.
you should try the urban proof rechargeable bike power head light!
I wouldn't pick any light that doesn't have a replaceable battery, nor do I think any light should win if it doesn't have a replaceable battery. Why buy a light that has LEDs rated for 50,000 hours, but the battery can only recycle 500 times for roughly 2,000 hours of run time? So then you throw away a perfectly fine headlight all because the battery cannot be replaced. For the price I could afford is why I bought the NiteRider Lumina Pro 1100, all I'll have to do when the time comes is send the light back to NiteRider and for about $30 they put in a new battery, check and repair if necessary all the functions, and reseal the headlight, then send it back to me ready to go for another 2,000 or so hours. There is no way anyone is going to be able to buy a 1100 lumen light for $30 when your light battery dies.
I have just bought a Halfords advanced 1800 specifically because it has replaceable batteries and the runtime in eco is very good.
Just because it doesn't have removable batteries does not mean you have to throw it away, they can be replaced if you can open it up and source the cells.
@@dogbreath6974 That's all well and good if the thing can be taken apart, my old in the trash can Lezyne light there was no way to take it apart, there was no seam, the only thing I could think of was removing the lens and try to access the battery from the front, but it too would not come out. And if the case wasn't designed for being taken apart then you run into an issue of waterproofing it when putting it back together.
Then there is the problem of being handy enough to desolder the old battery and solder in the new. I'm not bad with working on classic car mechanicals but soldering was never something I was good at, I've done it, but it didn't come out pretty, and inside a light, you will probably need a very tiny bit of solder since everything is smashed into a small amount of space so too much solder could spill over onto something that could just short it out. It's just less of a headache to buy a new light, but now I only buy lights that have some way of replacing the battery, either by myself or sending it back to the company and paying a small fee to have it done.
I had a real tiny ScanDisk music player, the battery was shot, got on UA-cam, and watched how to do it...nope, I threw it away, everything inside that thing was super tiny stuff, and the thing wasn't meant for someone to replace the battery but some people could and did.
Outbound lighitng has a policy for battery replacement on their non-user servicable lights.
Bro if u ride 3 hrs per day, that's 45 yrs for 50000 hrs 😂
What about the Garmin Varia?
I use tea light candles!
Try mixturs of calcium carbide.
my biggest annoyance is that thete are so few light that take usb-c. the vast majority are still micro usb
Thankfully things are changing! Slowly...
Yes， for now, people prefer USB-C to USB micro, we are a manufacturer of bike lights. and we do have a lot of demands that request us to change to use USB-C instead of Micro USB. So we also create some lights with USB-C.
USB-C is a trend! Most of the lights have come with USB-C now.
not in germany, it seems like. i guess it could have something to do with the stvo making the development cycles longer. @@topshow5719
I don't like the traditional light mounts, looking for steera mounts or central mounts for a clean look.
Maybe you can test some of our lights someday!😜
The problem with 6 modes is you are always having to click some button 6 times. Drives me crazy.
Which ones have an aero bar mount? Pointless to me otherwise.
The giant comes with gopro attachment in the packaging which I have connected underneath my side mounted garmin mount on the aero bars
And what about Lezyne?
You can find all of our Lezyne reviews on the road.cc website, there are plenty that have scored an 8/10 but not a 9! We also are currently testing their new range and hoping for some tweaks to the modes
Every road light should have a cut off beam pattern and usb-c in the year 2024!
there is hole on the systems all those light are design for an round handlebar I've got a roval rapide handlebar I haven't be able to find a light for my handlebar
I like to use the Moon Rigel Pro on a quarter turn mount under the computer mount on my Roval Rapide bars - hope that helps - Cheers, Jamie
@@roadcc thx Jamie, ain’t got any computer mount but thx for your suggestion
Why does nobody ever comment on the ergonomics of bike lights ?? -Elephant in room situation !!
£45 is not cheap. I bought for half of this price real 800lumens 4000mah light. It is so strong I just use 450lumens mode. It can be use and charge same time and has USB C not like this Raveman micro usb from 2010🤦🏼
How is it possible that you’d skip a global world tour brand like Trek that offers multiple innovative lights including the only aero shaped 1300 watt light designed to go beneath and inline with a bike computer mount. None of your light suggestions work with integrated cockpits or aero setups generally.
but not helmets
Why are you riding your aero bike in the dark anyway this is winter bike time of year.
@@zedddddful for where? in australia its spring time
Magicshine's evo1700 blows many of these out the water
one for this year's test if we can get it then!
3:21 what he hell is that a alien in the back??
Towild beats all of these everywhere
I dont have round handlebars
The new magicshine 12000 lumen for around £450 - £500
I bought an 10,000 lumen light on Aliexpress for about £30. It's in the Newboler official store. Of course I don't know the true output but I'll tell you what: it's helluva bright.
It's always great to watch bike lamp reviews that ignore all the inexpensive and bright lamps available today so we can see what all the foolish, gullible suckers are buying.
no lupine?
Lupine is too much expensive compared to most of the lights in the market. Lupine's lights work well, we are aiming to make lights like their lights.
@@topshow5719Expensive and underwhelming due to the lack of a quality beam pattern.
Exposure has terrible build quality. I had one fail after 20 uses and they wouldn’t warranty it.
I had the Ravemen PR1600 Bicycle Headlight that I purchase Aug. 01, 2021. Until now the remote worked without issues. Now the remote only works sometimes. I've changed the batter and did the 'Repairing'. As far as batter life, I use a Power Bank when cycling most of the time. On dark roads I need the high setting as seen in my night cycling videos. This video will show how I carry the Power Bank on my bike www.youtube.com/watch?
So sad that basically none of these options are available and/or legal to use in Germany :(
Its not sad. You have far better lights there. These lights as just dangerous, I know this as a cyclist who has to pass people using them. I am totally blind when they approach as are cars. Also they need stupid high lumen counts because they waste so much of their energy lighting up the sky.
@@kidShibuya😂😂😂😂
@@kidShibuya I agree that the lights here are good, but firstly you can count the amount of allowed lights that can be mounted under the handlebars with one hand, and secondly it means that this video is completely useless to me
How come some STZVO beam patterns vary in quality.
Some look good some. Look horrible, hey all bare the standard?
cata beli
Can you stop pushing high lumen dangerous lights? There is a very good reason why cars legally need a cutoff and why germany has stvzo. Even if you don't care about your personal safety and think its ok that oncoming cars are blinded by you, the fact is that you are wasting light shining it up into the sky. You can save battery if you use a lower setting with a beam that puts it all on the road where it's actually useful. Most of the lights you push are just flash lights with bike mounts. They are not fit for purpose. FSS look at 6:35 and the light shining on that fake head. If that is another moving object they have no idea where you are. If they hit you or not is up to chance.
All of the lights here are ranked based on their beam shape, in fact we’re the only UK site to publish the shape of each beam. Light 1 and 4 are only 450 lumens and won’t be blinding anybody, light 3 has a fully cutoff beam, light 6 has Aktiv whereby the light dims for incoming traffic, that leaves two lights which happen to have lower modes to avoid blinding anyone, then when you get to a dark lane and want the extra light you can
@@roadcc What is weak depends on how dark adapted your eyes are and your general vision capabilities. Imagine you are walking in near pitch black at night with your eyes totally dark adapted then a cyclist comes at you with 'only' 400 lumens... Do you really think you will be seeing anything at all in front of you? And also keep in mind that you advocate far more powerful lights away from city streets.
On beam shape, I have an exposure light praised for its beam. I have tested it myself in my house, I can't see crap when I am in front of it even if its pointed down. I have a naca road though and that is excellent, my waist down is glowing but the only light hitting my eyes is reflected light. I can deal with that. There is so much sense in stvzo, opinion leaders really should be pushing it.
Agree with the comment posted
The Ravemen is also listed here - which has an anti-glare low beam. I have one myself and this feature was one factor to why I bought it. The remote switch also allows you to dim when you need, as well as go straight to full power if you need to check ahead. I only have the PR800 but it does what I need and has been great. Different circumstances may require more light but I suppose it’s up to the individual to be considerate of their surroundings.
I agree with the original comment. However, lights with a cut off need to actually be manufactured and sold before they can be tested. Until a few years ago Stvzo only applied to dynamo lights. I own one of the best - a supernova. At 200 lumens it is positively useless on an unlit road. This year they released a new version with 700 lumens and a 1000 lumens main beam, but it's £390 in the UK and was only released this year. So what do I ride ? A 800 lumen round beam dynamo light. The same with offroad lights. Only in the last couple of years have I been able to buy an offroad light with a dipped beam - the lupine sl ax gives 3800 lumens on max, but also has a road friendly dip beam (for about £500 !!!).
I'm 100% in favour of proper dipped beams, but they need to become the norm and not the exception. It's difficult to buy what doesn't exist.
None of those lights really do anything for me, I don't really care whether other cyclists or cars don't like my bright light its most important that i can see where I am going, these views must be a british only thing?
So you don't care if you dazzle oncoming traffic, as long as you can see were your going, even if the traffic swerve's into you and kills you.
@@dogbreath6974 shut up dog.
No USA/Canada etc too
Get away from the shitty round beams with no cut offs
For the Street or gravel, they're trash..for single track/woods they're mediocre.
You can get inexpensive lights that work better with proper beams for either scenario(or more expensive)
Bike light market is just full of trash
Some people pay 400+ for a light that has the same round beam as a 20$ Amazon/AliExpress special ..
Also, if all a vehicle sees is glare, he's not seeing you lol
Have you ever driven a car and an oncoming car passes you with high beams on( you can't see crap)
I bought the volt 1700, due to the battery replacement option.