Yep my brother had a 68 gt fastback and he took 3 to make 1 because in the 70 and 80s that is what you did as I tell my son's as I work on 91 mustang thanks
OEM sheel metal is always best. The repro stuff always have some problems. Even the more expensive original tooling parts should not be expected to be the same quality as the old original parts. The new parts are mostly made using softer alloys. This makes it possible to stamp the parts using smaller presses than the OEM manufactors and also have less wear on the expensive tools. But it also make the parts easier to dent and they will often have less crips lines the the old original parts.
This is why I’m determined to stick with original fenders. Dynacorn would be better quality, but would likely still need just as much work as a slightly damaged and bondo’d original. I need to make a video on the fender repair I’m currently into on my ‘66.
Awesome video. As a person thinking of finding a mustang to clean up, rebuild and make a driver it was good to see the pitfalls of aftermarket sheet metal.
I had the same problem with the Scott drake fender especially the top were the headlight bucket meets i tried two different buckets same issues stuck with a bad fender to expensive to ship back
Aren't there only two or three manufacturers of stamped body panels? I heard scott drake and dynacorn come off the same press'. I think for shits and grins you need to compare a DI against the others.
This one's lighter! LOL I wish this stuff would just bolt up! Then the challenge of... OK, I'll pay, how do I pick a good one? Scott Drake has a reputation of being good. But it all seems like a crap shoot. Thanks for what you do.
I buy original fenders (regardless of their condition) every chance I get. This allows me to find a better initial fit and work out the issues with OE metal and shape. Usually "rusty but trusty".
Another good video, I got tired of trying to get the aftermarket fenders to fit correctly, I just dropped $400. For two front fenders for my 67 ,the drivers side was a 68 original ford replacement with the maker light hole filled with bondo and some rot in the normal spot..
I like the scott drake part description. "Our reproduction fenders offer an inexpensive alternative to purchasing O.E.M. parts, with only a slight loss in fit when compared with genuine Ford parts."
What an outstanding video! This is the first one I have seen that has compared oem to aftermarkets in such depth and detail. Afterrmarket parts have their place but they almost always need additional work to fit properly and the metal is thinner. By all means use the original fender and repair as needed.
I just picked up one of these fenders yesterday from Summit in Reno, NV. Just like your experience, it comes up short at the bottom. Unfortunately I will be reworking it I believe. Like you have mentioned before, the shipping to get one from a different source is not worth it to me and I don't expect the Goodmark or Sherman options at Summit to be any better.
I will be getting to that stage of my build soon and I don't look forward to it as this will be my first time. I hope I don't run into too many problems. I guess if all reproduced parts fit perfectly anyone could do it.
Yea, I'd REALLY like to see this comparison with the Dynacorn part. I've heard that they are better than the other reproductions, but I haven't seen a head-to-head comparison like you're doing here. That'd be an interesting thing to see, because if it isn't a worthy replacement, then the only alternative is repairing the OEM parts (And I need to address a number of body issues on the '66 I'm currently working on. Thanks for sharing this with us!
I had the same problem, I tried to save the original that had rust in the bottom but I ended up with a lot of distortion. Went and got a aftermarket fender but it fitted terribly, tried another after market one (both were Taiwan made) it fitted better but it had a 1/4 inch gap between fender and hood. Ended up cutting and widening it plus I got to rework the lower curve and add metal to the door gap ...........I am still working on it, in your case I would use the original because of the fitment.
Vendors should be ashamed for selling these overpriced nightmares. $200+ for $5 worth of crappy sheet metal that normally doesn't even come close to fitting.
New fender and it doesn't fit? That is dissappointing, but I'm looking forward to watching you repair that original panel. Should have lots of great tips and instruction that many of us will find very useful.
Dynacorn will be no different. They get their stuff from the same manufactures as scott drake as well as the others. Went thru this when replacing my mustang full quarter panels.
Yep my brother had a 68 gt fastback and he took 3 to make 1 because in the 70 and 80s that is what you did as I tell my son's as I work on 91 mustang thanks
It looks like the original is your best bet 👍
use the OEM fender and take pieces from your buddy fender that if you dont scrape it and go with a dynacorn fender
OEM sheel metal is always best. The repro stuff always have some problems. Even the more expensive original tooling parts should not be expected to be the same quality as the old original parts. The new parts are mostly made using softer alloys. This makes it possible to stamp the parts using smaller presses than the OEM manufactors and also have less wear on the expensive tools. But it also make the parts easier to dent and they will often have less crips lines the the old original parts.
This is why I’m determined to stick with original fenders. Dynacorn would be better quality, but would likely still need just as much work as a slightly damaged and bondo’d original. I need to make a video on the fender repair I’m currently into on my ‘66.
I know a man with GM 56 chevy fender (pair) with the paperwork still attached.
That's like having gold.
Amazing the differences in those fenders. Another informative video and funny blooper getting upstaged by your compressor Barry!
I’m having the same issues with the fitment of the Scott Drake fenders for my ‘67 coupe 🤦♂️
Awesome video. As a person thinking of finding a mustang to clean up, rebuild and make a driver it was good to see the pitfalls of aftermarket sheet metal.
So insightful. Thank you so much for making this video. I wish I had some of your vast knowledge.
Shud compare a Dynacorn as well to complete this topic !
Thanks for the video on this Barry
Wow big difference. Why can’t they just make the part correctly? Do they not test fit before making thousands of them?
Great point. At the very least make the bolt holes line up.
I had the same problem with the Scott drake fender especially the top were the headlight bucket meets i tried two different buckets same issues stuck with a bad fender to expensive to ship back
Seems like a frustrating process, but I know you will get it figured out! 👍👍
I know the pain in fitting fenders. Good Luck.
As always very informative
Aren't there only two or three manufacturers of stamped body panels? I heard scott drake and dynacorn come off the same press'. I think for shits and grins you need to compare a DI against the others.
I would if I had one.
I would fix the Bondo OEM one or get a oem used one . It lasted for so many years with all that bondo , if fixed properly it will last even longer
That's the plan.
This one's lighter! LOL I wish this stuff would just bolt up! Then the challenge of... OK, I'll pay, how do I pick a good one? Scott Drake has a reputation of being good. But it all seems like a crap shoot. Thanks for what you do.
I buy original fenders (regardless of their condition) every chance I get. This allows me to find a better initial fit and work out the issues with OE metal and shape. Usually "rusty but trusty".
Another good video, I got tired of trying to get the aftermarket fenders to fit correctly, I just dropped $400. For two front fenders for my 67 ,the drivers side was a 68 original ford replacement with the maker light hole filled with bondo and some rot in the normal spot..
I like the scott drake part description. "Our reproduction fenders offer an inexpensive alternative to purchasing O.E.M. parts, with only a slight loss in fit when compared with genuine Ford parts."
I been down this road many times with the "Ford tooling" Chinesium sheet metal.
I’d like to see a fender from NPD compared.
If I had one I would.
@@JoDaddysGarage I’m pretty sure they will ship one to you. They take credit cards. 😜
Barry I must tell you that this video was one of your best ever, short ,easy to understand and the comparisons made it clear as a bell
You can fix the original one
I will.
What an outstanding video! This is the first one I have seen that has compared oem to aftermarkets in such depth and detail. Afterrmarket parts have their place but they almost always need additional work to fit properly and the metal is thinner. By all means use the original fender and repair as needed.
I just picked up one of these fenders yesterday from Summit in Reno, NV. Just like your experience, it comes up short at the bottom. Unfortunately I will be reworking it I believe. Like you have mentioned before, the shipping to get one from a different source is not worth it to me and I don't expect the Goodmark or Sherman options at Summit to be any better.
Better just repairing the old fender!
I will be getting to that stage of my build soon and I don't look forward to it as this will be my first time. I hope I don't run into too many problems. I guess if all reproduced parts fit perfectly anyone could do it.
Yea, I'd REALLY like to see this comparison with the Dynacorn part. I've heard that they are better than the other reproductions, but I haven't seen a head-to-head comparison like you're doing here. That'd be an interesting thing to see, because if it isn't a worthy replacement, then the only alternative is repairing the OEM parts (And I need to address a number of body issues on the '66 I'm currently working on. Thanks for sharing this with us!
Great video 👍
I had the same problem, I tried to save the original that had rust in the bottom but I ended up with a lot of distortion. Went and got a aftermarket fender but it fitted terribly, tried another after market one (both were Taiwan made) it fitted better but it had a 1/4 inch gap between fender and hood. Ended up cutting and widening it plus I got to rework the lower curve and add metal to the door gap
...........I am still working on it, in your case I would use the original because of the fitment.
Surly one of your subs would have a nice fender that could be had. C’on guys help a brother out.
Vendors should be ashamed for selling these overpriced nightmares. $200+ for $5 worth of crappy sheet metal that normally doesn't even come close to fitting.
New fender and it doesn't fit? That is dissappointing, but I'm looking forward to watching you repair that original panel. Should have lots of great tips and instruction that many of us will find very useful.
Dynacorn will be no different. They get their stuff from the same manufactures as scott drake as well as the others. Went thru this when replacing my mustang full quarter panels.
Need to compare a dynacorn one for metal thickness
What is your reason to buy a 67 fender without the cutout?
That is what they sell for both the 67 and 68. You need to add/transfer the cutout.