Rub the oil with the grain back and forth coming off each stroke light lightly. You still get it pressured into the wood but eliminate swirl marks. Just long even strokes the length of the wood with the grain. It's like french polishing.
Tru Oil is amazing stuff. I tried many different finishes over the years until a luthier friend recommended Tru Oil to me. I'll never go back to anything else. It's easy to work with and gives great results. Necks feel great with Tru Oil.
Dear Friends Tru-oil is like most other traditional gunstock finishes, primarily Boiled Linseed Oil with some driers and other substances that will thin it a bit. When I am in a hurry, I use a similar product called Lin-Speed, though I've used Tru-Oil, I find it tends to get sticky, more than the others, Both Tru-Oil and Lin Speed can be found at found at Brownells, the go to supplier of parts and materials plus many other products and tools for gunsmiths. Both these products, and ordinary Boiled Linseed Oil have worked best for me by applying them AFTER filling with a filler designed for using with these products, mainly for walnut, but for any open pored wood as well. These fillers can be stained easily to much the wood being worked on, then applied, allowed to dry, and rubbed down with fine BRONZE WOOL also sold at Brownells, this eliminates whiskers of Bronze Wool, don't use steel wool it will rust and stain the wood one is finishing. Successive coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru-Oil or Lin-Speed, rubbed in with your own hand, followed by rubbing down with the Bronze Wool about 0000 fineness, to remove wood whiskers or dust contaminants when the oil dries, works well, these finishes work best left overnight to dry, the initial coats of oil can be rubbed in with the the Bronze Wool, but the finish needs to be rubbed out AFTER it has thoroughly dried, rubbed lightly so as not to remove the initial finish completely, repeat coating and rubbing out the dried finish until all the pores are filled and it is smooth. I like to hand rub in, and polish successive coats until a satin finish is achieved and all pores are filled, it will look like the finish is IN the wood, not on it. If you want a high gloss, then, it must be rubbed out with Rottenstone and Olive Oil with a felt pads until the gloss desired is reached. This is the Classic Oil Finish found on all traditionally finished, fine, Best Quality guns and high quality and high value furniture. I have no doubt that it can successfully be used on instruments, it is flexible, very thin, and very easy to spot repair, any one with patience, a good eye and diligence can apply this finish with excellent results, I did my first gunstock when was only 15. I now use this finish regularly in my own shop on guns, furniture, and on the instruments I make, usually using Boiled Linseed Oil to which I add a bit of thiner, usually turpentine, to accelerate the drying and application, there're other driers, but turpentine works about as well as any though others use Japan Drier to speed up things. I've been using this finish with satisfaction for over 60 years now, try my protocol with these oils, it works better than any other method. BRONZE WOOL is mandatory unless you like rust spots or loosened grit from sandpaper on and in your finished work, felt pads used with Rottenstone powder and Olive oil are necessary if you want a high gloss finish. Give it a try anyone with patience and a good eye can do it, I use it on rifles and shotguns valued in the tens of thousands of dollars. Oh yes, it can also be stained (the Oil), but I like to stain the wood and filler, it works better than staining the oil, but that works well most of the time, some stain the the wood, the filler, AND the Oil, it really doesn't matter as long as the filler iw stained to match the wood.
I put about three coats on a rifle stock and then I use 0000 steel wool to get the scratches out. Then add a couple coats and dull it with 0000 steel wool between coats just to cut out any scratches. After about three coats like that, I thin the tru oil about 50/50 so that it self levels. Lightly buff with the 0000 steel wool between coats and the final coat goes on like glass.
Thanks, you gave me some new ideas for doing my gun stock projects. I've used tru oil several times, and the first 2 attempts were learning curves, finding was works and doesn't work. One tip i learned was poking a small hole in the foil to drip out your oil is the best way to keep it from getting crusty on the bottle. Next is using little plastic shot cups to cut the oil with mineral spirits to help it from drying to quickly as I apply it. The excess mineral spirits evaporate eventually and it helps level the application. two parts oil one part mineral spirits. you dont need much at all.
so there is a much better option for sealing and filling after you stain and before you use tru oil its made by birchwood casey its called sealer & filler www.midwayusa.com/product/1006433994/birchwood-casey-s-and-f-gun-stock-clear-sealer-and-filler-3-oz after applying the sander filler then you use the true oil
Us rifle stock finishers always get a nice, deep glass smooth finish by hand rubbing the Tru Oil into the wood from the start. I have not seen anyone use "pads" until I started watching guitar finishing videos.... Tru Oil is a great and durable finish on rifles and shotguns! You must be getting some good finishes on guitars as well.
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits). What's Stand oil? Stand oil is linseed oil set in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500°+ for an extended period of time. It's thick, more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It’s not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for years and is available online or at good art supply stores, I’m an art conservator and I've been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. Unfortunately, so many people have been snowed by big companies and their "proprietary formulas."
Great info. I just bought a new bass, and I am going to Tru-oil the back of the neck - next week. I want that smooth-Satin finish (like on a Suhr or a Taylor). I have 800 grit wet-dry sandpaper, 0000 steel wool and the fine-grey buffing pad, lint free cloths?
Oh my god,i'm full of questions.i have a body already sanded with 320.what should i do next?apply grain filler(or some kind of varnish mix with poly/mineral spirits)?how many coats of this and when to sand?i have to seal the wood and if yes,when to do it?after grain filler?how to apply the coats of poly finish?apply with sandpaper or cloth?and then let it dry and apply again with sand paper or cloth or i will sand only in final coat?please,somebody help me.if someone knows the process,let's give me a step by step guide,i would really appreciate it.i don't want to pay 280£ to stores just to make for me a natural finish gloss.thank you
Given I only do 2, max 3 a day. I try and space them out generously. Several hours. May not be required, but I do it anyways. I have heard that putting more on top before the lower coat has dried can mean it never fully dries. However, how long that is I’m not sure. Hence why I always just erred on the safe side.
how does this work with a water base dye id like to colour dye a swamp ash body i have a test peace and trying to find a couple ideas to complete before doing it to the bass guitar
I have tru-oiled over a water-based dye body. Make sure it dries fully first, but other than that it worked fine. The one thing I've heard to potentially watch for when doing this is that tru-oil is a fairly thin finish... so if it's on something high-wear, then you risk messing up the dye if you wear through the finish and the dye gets exposed to wear, water, etc.
can u apply TRU OIL with a foam paint brush? im assuming that i could but i wont really be getting the oil massaged into the wood. how msny coats do you recommend? do you do any ssnding in between coats of oil? i habe #0000 ssn psper. its more like a cloth, would that be a good sand7ng finish?
See my other recent reply for coat numbers. As for a brush you'll end up streaky I imagine. I 'massage' to get a flat uniform finish with minimal streaks... Not to 'push it into the wood.' The oil will soak however much it wants regardless of method.
Also, can you use tru oil in colder temperatures?? I am working in my garage (in Canada) and was wondering if I should wait for warmer weather to apply tru oil!? Thanks.
verhoevc My build has a sandwich style body like yours with several different colors next to one another - mahogany, then 1/4" maple, then 3/16 pau ferro. When pore filling by wet sanding with the oil, did you find that some of the dark wood sawdust got stuck in the lighter wood's pores? Also, when using some exotic wood, like pau ferro, would it make sense to seal it with something like shellac before or after the wet sanding? Awesome video, thanks!
I have used clear pore filler before applying oil and cleaned any dust left after the sealer was totally dry with a tack cloth. If you have compressed air you can blow out the pores as well if you get any stubborn areas. After the work is sealed then you can work on leveling.
Great video thanks! So I have a question. I did one extra step at the beginning before wet/oil pore filling, which is two sealant coats which I sanded back pretty far to get some of the surface sanding scratches out that Warmoth left (as you say they come reveal with the oil). The reason I did this is because I heard elsewhere that a sealing coat with help the oil/wood slurry to stick in those pores. Is there any truth to that or did I actually mess up by doing this? Thanks
Truoil is a funny finish. I've put anywhere from 6-14 coats on bodies and necks. I generally do fewer on necks. Both all protected just fine. Put coats until you're happy with the feel. As for grits... Whatever grit doesn't leave visible scratches in the finish is what you need. That'll depend on wood, technique, etc.
Can you use this technique on a guitar body that's been dyed? I have a jaguar kit and I've dyed the body green. I'm wondering if it will remove any of the dye...
I'm always going to recommend that you do a test on similar wood with similar dye and finish. However, I have put tru-oil over a transtint green diluted in water before and things went just fine.
Depends how even your finish went down. If rough, start at 600p. If not, 800p. Then go to 1200p minimum before buffing. But that's not gunna use tru-oil. For that you'll be spraying finish.
+Chris Francisco You're probably good overnight. However, if you're anything like me you've got way too many projects going at the same time. Doesn't hurt to give it a few days I'd guess.
Was this mahogany? I am thinking about doing this on my build. If it works to pore/grain fill by just sanding 600grit with tru oil Ill give that a go! Did you do the whole guitar with this method of grain filling? How long between coats did you wait?
+Matthew Wiebe The stick was black limba. The guitar was a combo of goncalo alves, makore, and wenge. I did the whole pore fill this way. I waited the standard time between coats recommended on the bottle.
Incorrect. Scotchbrite sucks for this purpose. Go use scotch rite and hate your finish. Then hit it with real steel wool and be amazed at the difference. Drop the trash.
@@chrispile3878 for the purposes here I will gladly take those concerns in exchange for the vastly superior finish quality it gives with this particular finish. Go try both. I dare you.
Many old-school gun stock finishers use their fingers instead of an applicator. You can get it on thinner, and the heat from your fingers and friction, as well as the soft ridges of your fingerprint are ideal for filling all the small pores and ridges, and eliminates those swirls.
Vladimir Medvedev or be patient. However, this time you're correct, I have no experience with poly and tru-oil together, so I don't know the answer to that.Ambers can be done two ways: staining the wood, or adding stain to the finish. With tru-oil, I would not recommend the latter.
It's going to age faster than a nitro, poly, etc. finish. But the good thing about tru-oil is it's always easy to re-apply new layers IF needed one day.
Tru oil is the best. I like a satin or “unfinished” feel to my necks. I sand any lacquer off the back of the neck, sand with a 400 finish and give a couple (2-3) coats of tru oil (letting dry between coats) then I buff the shit out of it with some fine steel wool. The back of the neck is then sealed, it’s fast and it feels and looks great!
Not that long. You can increase the life of your bottle by storing it upside down. That way, when the air in the bottle causes a "skin" to develop and harden on the surface, it does it on the bottom out of your way.
Rub the oil with the grain back and forth coming off each stroke light lightly. You still get it pressured into the wood but eliminate swirl marks. Just long even strokes the length of the wood with the grain. It's like french polishing.
Tru Oil is amazing stuff. I tried many different finishes over the years until a luthier friend recommended Tru Oil to me. I'll never go back to anything else. It's easy to work with and gives great results. Necks feel great with Tru Oil.
Dear Friends
Tru-oil is like most other traditional gunstock finishes, primarily Boiled Linseed Oil with some driers and other substances that will thin it a bit. When I am in a hurry, I use a similar product called Lin-Speed, though I've used Tru-Oil, I find it tends to get sticky, more than the others, Both Tru-Oil and Lin Speed can be found at found at Brownells, the go to supplier of parts and materials plus many other products and tools for gunsmiths. Both these products, and ordinary Boiled Linseed Oil have worked best for me by applying them AFTER filling with a filler designed for using with these products, mainly for walnut, but for any open pored wood as well. These fillers can be stained easily to much the wood being worked on, then applied, allowed to dry, and rubbed down with fine BRONZE WOOL also sold at Brownells, this eliminates whiskers of Bronze Wool, don't use steel wool it will rust and stain the wood one is finishing. Successive coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru-Oil or Lin-Speed, rubbed in with your own hand, followed by rubbing down with the Bronze Wool about 0000 fineness, to remove wood whiskers or dust contaminants when the oil dries, works well, these finishes work best left overnight to dry, the initial coats of oil can be rubbed in with the the Bronze Wool, but the finish needs to be rubbed out AFTER it has thoroughly dried, rubbed lightly so as not to remove the initial finish completely, repeat coating and rubbing out the dried finish until all the pores are filled and it is smooth. I like to hand rub in, and polish successive coats until a satin finish is achieved and all pores are filled, it will look like the finish is IN the wood, not on it. If you want a high gloss, then, it must be rubbed out with Rottenstone and Olive Oil with a felt pads until the gloss desired is reached. This is the Classic Oil Finish found on all traditionally finished, fine, Best Quality guns and high quality and high value furniture. I have no doubt that it can successfully be used on instruments, it is flexible, very thin, and very easy to spot repair, any one with patience, a good eye and diligence can apply this finish with excellent results, I did my first gunstock when was only 15. I now use this finish regularly in my own shop on guns, furniture, and on the instruments I make, usually using Boiled Linseed Oil to which I add a bit of thiner, usually turpentine, to accelerate the drying and application, there're other driers, but turpentine works about as well as any though others use Japan Drier to speed up things. I've been using this finish with satisfaction for over 60 years now, try my protocol with these oils, it works better than any other method. BRONZE WOOL is mandatory unless you like rust spots or loosened grit from sandpaper on and in your finished work, felt pads used with Rottenstone powder and Olive oil are necessary if you want a high gloss finish. Give it a try anyone with patience and a good eye can do it, I use it on rifles and shotguns valued in the tens of thousands of dollars. Oh yes, it can also be stained (the Oil), but I like to stain the wood and filler, it works better than staining the oil, but that works well most of the time, some stain the the wood, the filler, AND the Oil, it really doesn't matter as long as the filler iw stained to match the wood.
I put about three coats on a rifle stock and then I use 0000 steel wool to get the scratches out. Then add a couple coats and dull it with 0000 steel wool between coats just to cut out any scratches. After about three coats like that, I thin the tru oil about 50/50 so that it self levels. Lightly buff with the 0000 steel wool between coats and the final coat goes on like glass.
So you cut it with mineral spirits at the end?
@@TedMabbatt sure can.
Thanks, you gave me some new ideas for doing my gun stock projects. I've used tru oil several times, and the first 2 attempts were learning curves, finding was works and doesn't work. One tip i learned was poking a small hole in the foil to drip out your oil is the best way to keep it from getting crusty on the bottle. Next is using little plastic shot cups to cut the oil with mineral spirits to help it from drying to quickly as I apply it. The excess mineral spirits evaporate eventually and it helps level the application. two parts oil one part mineral spirits. you dont need much at all.
Tru-Oil waste of your $$$. Make your own. 60% Tung Oil, 30% Polyurethane (oil base) and 10% Spirit.
so there is a much better option for sealing and filling after you stain and before you use tru oil its made by birchwood casey its called sealer & filler www.midwayusa.com/product/1006433994/birchwood-casey-s-and-f-gun-stock-clear-sealer-and-filler-3-oz after applying the sander filler then you use the true oil
Us rifle stock finishers always get a nice, deep glass smooth finish by hand rubbing the Tru Oil into the wood from the start. I have not seen anyone use "pads" until I started watching guitar finishing videos.... Tru Oil is a great and durable finish on rifles and shotguns! You must be getting some good finishes on guitars as well.
Nothing worse than "scmootz" buildup... lol
Good tutorial Chris.
Schmootz can ruin a perfectly good build Doug. Dangerous stuff! Hahaha.
verhoevc excuse me - what's schmootz?
i will try a tru-oil finish. thanks for sharing your experience.
It's german actually. It's "schmutz" and just means dirt, haha!
Gotta love the schmutz method to pore fill
Can you just cover your guitar with clear packing tape as a clear coat instead?
Correct. This is actually the preferred method, obviously. But very hard to do right. Takes years of practice.
Very cool guitar btw.
Thanks mate, this video was very helpful! I'm soon going to tru-oil my build so your timing was perfect!
Someone on PG was asking about it, so I figured it was a good time to upload this section of my video. Glad it was serendipitous for multiple folks!
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits).
What's Stand oil?
Stand oil is linseed oil set in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500°+ for an extended period of time. It's thick, more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It’s not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for years and is available online or at good art supply stores, I’m an art conservator and I've been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. Unfortunately, so many people have been snowed by big companies and their "proprietary formulas."
Great info. I just bought a new bass, and I am going to Tru-oil the back of the neck - next week. I want that smooth-Satin finish (like on a Suhr or a Taylor). I have 800 grit wet-dry sandpaper, 0000 steel wool and the fine-grey buffing pad, lint free cloths?
Oh my god,i'm full of questions.i have a body already sanded with 320.what should i do next?apply grain filler(or some kind of varnish mix with poly/mineral spirits)?how many coats of this and when to sand?i have to seal the wood and if yes,when to do it?after grain filler?how to apply the coats of poly finish?apply with sandpaper or cloth?and then let it dry and apply again with sand paper or cloth or i will sand only in final coat?please,somebody help me.if someone knows the process,let's give me a step by step guide,i would really appreciate it.i don't want to pay 280£ to stores just to make for me a natural finish gloss.thank you
How long drying time between coats?
Given I only do 2, max 3 a day. I try and space them out generously. Several hours. May not be required, but I do it anyways. I have heard that putting more on top before the lower coat has dried can mean it never fully dries. However, how long that is I’m not sure. Hence why I always just erred on the safe side.
when doing the entire body did you make a elevated stand or hang it from the cut out outs on the body
If you want your finish to be shinier, once you're done rubbing it off with steelwool at the end you can wax it.
Cant wait to use this
Can i use the sand paper 600.. 800... instead steel wool?
how does this work with a water base dye id like to colour dye a swamp ash body i have a test peace and trying to find a couple ideas to complete before doing it to the bass guitar
I have tru-oiled over a water-based dye body. Make sure it dries fully first, but other than that it worked fine. The one thing I've heard to potentially watch for when doing this is that tru-oil is a fairly thin finish... so if it's on something high-wear, then you risk messing up the dye if you wear through the finish and the dye gets exposed to wear, water, etc.
can u apply TRU OIL with a foam paint brush? im assuming that i could but i wont really be getting the oil massaged into the wood.
how msny coats do you recommend?
do you do any ssnding in between coats of oil?
i habe #0000 ssn psper. its more like a cloth, would that be a good sand7ng finish?
See my other recent reply for coat numbers. As for a brush you'll end up streaky I imagine. I 'massage' to get a flat uniform finish with minimal streaks... Not to 'push it into the wood.' The oil will soak however much it wants regardless of method.
Also, can you use tru oil in colder temperatures?? I am working in my garage (in Canada) and was wondering if I should wait for warmer weather to apply tru oil!? Thanks.
No clue, sorry. I generally am too lazy too work in the shop in the cold hahaha
verhoevc My build has a sandwich style body like yours with several different colors next to one another - mahogany, then 1/4" maple, then 3/16 pau ferro. When pore filling by wet sanding with the oil, did you find that some of the dark wood sawdust got stuck in the lighter wood's pores? Also, when using some exotic wood, like pau ferro, would it make sense to seal it with something like shellac before or after the wet sanding? Awesome video, thanks!
I have used clear pore filler before applying oil and cleaned any dust left after the sealer was totally dry with a tack cloth. If you have compressed air you can blow out the pores as well if you get any stubborn areas. After the work is sealed then you can work on leveling.
Great video thanks! So I have a question. I did one extra step at the beginning before wet/oil pore filling, which is two sealant coats which I sanded back pretty far to get some of the surface sanding scratches out that Warmoth left (as you say they come reveal with the oil). The reason I did this is because I heard elsewhere that a sealing coat with help the oil/wood slurry to stick in those pores. Is there any truth to that or did I actually mess up by doing this?
Thanks
Never tried that. Tru-oil sticks to itself so my gut says it can't hurt.
How many coats would you put on the neck?Is 600grit high enough for the neck also? Then to do the 600grit wet/filler sand?
Truoil is a funny finish. I've put anywhere from 6-14 coats on bodies and necks. I generally do fewer on necks. Both all protected just fine. Put coats until you're happy with the feel. As for grits... Whatever grit doesn't leave visible scratches in the finish is what you need. That'll depend on wood, technique, etc.
Can you use this technique on a guitar body that's been dyed? I have a jaguar kit and I've dyed the body green. I'm wondering if it will remove any of the dye...
I'm always going to recommend that you do a test on similar wood with similar dye and finish. However, I have put tru-oil over a transtint green diluted in water before and things went just fine.
Great video. I like the finish. Thanks for sharing...
Do you have to sand between each coat or just at the end to get the high gloss finish?
Excellent vid. Thanks for sharing!
What kind of wood is that?
The top and back are goncalo alves. Neck is a multi laminate but the bulk is wenge. Body core is makore.
What level of grit sandpaper would you recomend if I want to bring a Les paul faded (goldtop) to a glossy shine?
Depends how even your finish went down. If rough, start at 600p. If not, 800p. Then go to 1200p minimum before buffing. But that's not gunna use tru-oil. For that you'll be spraying finish.
Your method makes much better sense to me than other vids I have watched.
Do you have to grain fill? If I want to feel the wood grain would I just leave out that step?
NOPE
How long should I let the last coat dry before buffing with the synthetic steel wool?
+Chris Francisco You're probably good overnight. However, if you're anything like me you've got way too many projects going at the same time. Doesn't hurt to give it a few days I'd guess.
after using the steel wool, do you clean the top with anything?
Just wipe it down to get any steel wool dust off. That's all.
I bought Woodglut once and now I have lifetime access to thousands of woodworking projects.
Is there any other products needed after the tru oil!??
Nope. Only what I show in the video. Some people wax-rub at the end for a higher gloss as you can see in the comments.
Was this mahogany? I am thinking about doing this on my build. If it works to pore/grain fill by just sanding 600grit with tru oil Ill give that a go! Did you do the whole guitar with this method of grain filling? How long between coats did you wait?
+Matthew Wiebe The stick was black limba. The guitar was a combo of goncalo alves, makore, and wenge. I did the whole pore fill this way. I waited the standard time between coats recommended on the bottle.
+verhoevc would it work to do this mahogany?
It's called SCOTCHBRITE.
Incorrect. Scotchbrite sucks for this purpose. Go use scotch rite and hate your finish. Then hit it with real steel wool and be amazed at the difference. Drop the trash.
@@verhoevc Been using it for 45 years. Never failed me. 3M products rule the market for a reason - they work.
@@verhoevc Steel wool is the trash. It contaminates everything, it rusts, it's magnetic, shorts out electronics. It's a nightmare material.
@@chrispile3878 for the purposes here I will gladly take those concerns in exchange for the vastly superior finish quality it gives with this particular finish. Go try both. I dare you.
He said "schmutz". I LIKE this guy!
LOL I enjoy the technical jargon also!
very good tip thank you
Many old-school gun stock finishers use their fingers instead of an applicator. You can get it on thinner, and the heat from your fingers and friction, as well as the soft ridges of your fingerprint are ideal for filling all the small pores and ridges, and eliminates those swirls.
fingerprints much bro
sl1nk3 Not a one.
Not the best idea for guitars as the oil dries too quickly, best to use a small piece clean rag.
how much oil is needed to finish one guitar?
Siyiro I get SEVERAL guitars out of one of those smaller bottles.
Can I apply it over a polyurethane finished neck or do I need to sand until the finish is gone? Also, how do I get the amber finish?
Vladimir Medvedev I guess I'll have to get an answer somewhere else.
Vladimir Medvedev or be patient. However, this time you're correct, I have no experience with poly and tru-oil together, so I don't know the answer to that.Ambers can be done two ways: staining the wood, or adding stain to the finish. With tru-oil, I would not recommend the latter.
verhoevc OK thanks, I think to be on the safe side, I'll sand until the poly is gone, then I'll use tru oil. I bought one jar already.
That's a very good looking guitar.
+CarcPazu Thanks. It's actually available for sale if anyone is interested.
Is it sticky?
Will that oil make a white wood dark?
Yes, it will slightly darken it. But not demonstratively different than any other finish would.
Was tru-oil the only item you used on the guitar body?
1p6t1gms Yup.
verhoevc This polish looks nice I think I might try it for a new finish, does it age well too.
Thanks, TJ
It's going to age faster than a nitro, poly, etc. finish. But the good thing about tru-oil is it's always easy to re-apply new layers IF needed one day.
verhoevc I appreciate this; I’m going to try this method.
TRUE OIL LOOKS AMAZING BUT DOESN'T PROTECT ANYTHING. IF YOU LOOK AT IT WRONG IT DENTS.
Wash your hands really thoroughly and just apply it with your finger tips. No cloth fibres that way.
Tru oil is the best. I like a satin or “unfinished” feel to my necks.
I sand any lacquer off the back of the neck, sand with a 400 finish and give a couple (2-3) coats of tru oil (letting dry between coats) then I buff the shit out of it with some fine steel wool.
The back of the neck is then sealed, it’s fast and it feels and looks great!
Tru oil is not the best because it's too expensive
Will the 3oz bottle be enough to do one guitar?
Plenty! Several guitars.
Should do this in a ventilated area. Tru Oil is varnish based.
What’s the shelf life of tru oil?
Not that long. You can increase the life of your bottle by storing it upside down. That way, when the air in the bottle causes a "skin" to develop and harden on the surface, it does it on the bottom out of your way.
verhoevc, my god you are a genius!
**Runs to shed... flips tru oil bottle**